Standard apartment- this is a traditionally cramped bathroom, narrow corridors and an uncomfortable kitchen. The bathroom is often so small that it does not allow for any fittings or washing machine, no bidet. Combining the toilet space with the bathroom gives a few extra centimeters, which allows you to accommodate the listed equipment.
There are three paths that the owner of an inconvenient apartment can take:
- combining a toilet with a bathroom;
- moving a bathroom;
- expansion of the bathroom at the expense of the living space;
- expansion due to the kitchen;
- enlargement of the bathroom due to the corridor, storage room, utility room.
Moving a bathroom or toilet is available only to owners of their own homes; moving a bathroom in an apartment to any other place is prohibited. The same applies to expanding the bathroom at the expense of the living space or at the expense of the kitchen (moving the bathroom into the kitchen), prohibiting documents in this case are SanPiN 2.1.2.2645-10 and SNiP 31-01-2003.
However, there are still exceptions to this rule - you can expand the bathroom at the expense of the kitchen or living space if there is a non-residential premises(accordingly, you live on the 1st or 2nd floor) or you are going to remodel on the 2nd floor of a two-story apartment.
Moving the bathroom to the corridor, or rather expanding the bathroom through the corridor, storage room, utility room, is possible and is the most acceptable option, but it should be remembered that it is prohibited to arrange an exit from the toilet to the room or kitchen.
Well, the most popular option is to combine a bathroom and a toilet; it is the one most often used in high-rise apartments.
Combining a bathroom
To coordinate the combination of a bathroom in panel house, brick building or Khrushchev it is necessary to prepare a project for future redevelopment. Surely, in the process you will also have to move plumbing fixtures or add new ones.
Stages of redevelopment approval:
- receiving technical passport in BTI;
- obtaining a single housing document from the IERC;
- execution of a sketch of future redevelopment and waterproofing on the floor plan, or ordering from design organization redevelopment project;*
- provision required package documents to the Housing Inspectorate of the city of Moscow. The decision is made within 1.5-2 months.
* if the partition between the toilet and the bathroom is not load-bearing, and if you want to change the location of the appliances, the redevelopment can be done according to a sketch or according to standard project. If the work involves load-bearing walls, you want to add plumbing fixtures (for example, a bidet) - you must order individual project. If the waterproofing of the floor changes as a result of the demolition of the partition, it is necessary to prepare a special design for the floors.
Since we are talking about projects, it should be noted that moving a bathroom in an apartment, or rather expanding it through a corridor or storage room, also requires drawing up a project, even if it does not affect the load-bearing walls (since there is interference in the design of the floors).
Expanding the kitchen with a bathroom
Let's consider the option when it is necessary to obtain permission to expand the kitchen at the expense of the bathroom or toilet.
Clause 2.6 of section 2 of SNiP 2.08.01-89* states: “It is not allowed to place a toilet and bathtub (or shower) directly above living rooms and kitchens." In this case, on the contrary, we want to place part of the kitchen under someone else’s bathroom. There is no direct prohibition on such redevelopment in the law. Previously, the Moscow Housing Inspectorate gave permission for the transfer, since the owner of the apartment worsened the living conditions only for himself. In this case, along with other documents, the Moscow Housing Inspectorate had to provide a notarized consent regarding the deterioration of living conditions.
Today, the Moscow Housing Inspectorate does not give permission for redevelopment, arguing its position as follows: according to Government Decree No. 73, paragraph 3.1, “Reconstruction of premises is not allowed, in which “the conditions of use of the house and living conditions of citizens worsen.”
The ideal option is if your apartment is on the top floor, you do not worsen the living conditions for yourself or your neighbors. Permission for such redevelopment is more likely to be given.
If you are planning to move a bathroom, combine a bathroom or other redevelopment, contact us for legal services to our company.
How to move a toilet to another place
We will not only give you advice on how best to carry out the redevelopment and advise on all issues related to approval, but we will also prepare a sketch, project, obtain all the necessary permits and carry out the approval. Your property is in good hands when the work is handled by MVK-Service.
You can get a free consultation right now by calling the numbers listed in the contacts. Our specialist will answer any of your questions regarding the approval of redevelopments.
Conference > Chat > Miscellaneous > I want to move the toilet to the storage room
View full version: I want to move the toilet to the storage room
Tell me who has encountered this. I have a combined bathroom with a storage room across the partition where I want to move the toilet. I called the administration of my district, BTI. The administration immediately said that they wouldn’t approve, don’t even try, the BTI said the price of the issue was 25 thousand. Like they will prepare docks, a waterproofing project, etc. Anyone who has encountered and received permission for such redevelopment, please share your experience.
24-03-2015, 10:20
Why should I tell you what to do?
24-03-2015, 10:22
What are the difficulties, why approval, you’re not doing a redevelopment with the removal of walls? Extend the sewer pipe a little longer and pass cold water behind the partition, what’s the difficulty? Any plumber will do it quickly for separate fee. You just have to fence the hood
A cat walking by himself...
24-03-2015, 10:23
Don't forget ventilation
The apartment has a mortgage, and I want everything to be legal.
24-03-2015, 10:27
If there are 2 holes in the wall at the bottom for the sewer pipe and water and at the top for the hood, no one will say anything. The storage room is not a living space, do everything with a plumber and don’t worry.
Yes, I also read in the SNIP and it is written that a restroom and bathroom are prohibited from being placed above residential premises. And they keep telling me about dry and wet rooms and a bunch of certificates, documents and a project))
don’t forget the hood, otherwise you’ll have a gas van) and this is the 3rd hole in the wall with a diameter of 100mm
24-03-2015, 10:41
There are only 2 holes - both the sewer pipe and polyethylene pipe cold water, hood on top. This is how I did it))
24-03-2015, 13:49
What a cunning ass.
There is a handy plumber.
24-03-2015, 14:17
They are pushing it correctly, you can’t build wet rooms on top of your neighbors’ dry ones, but no project to legitimize this will help you, so 25 tr will be thrown into the abyss. If the neighbors find out and knock on you, then you won’t think it’s enough: rolleyes:
24-03-2015, 14:19
What wakes you up?
24-03-2015, 14:23
Do you think this is a difficult question?
24-03-2015, 14:23
They will drag you through the courts, fine you and give you an order to do as it was.
24-03-2015, 14:26
everything is settled ;)
strange system... it will be prohibited to do (as many say), but it’s easy to legitimize what has already been done... something like that)
24-03-2015, 15:07
Same actual topic, but I’m still wondering whether I need it or not.
24-03-2015, 15:36
It's better to have a sauna there
in the closet? and there is enough space
everything is not easy in this life 😉
In the apartment I combined a bathroom and a storage room at the construction stage, I also agreed with the builders. Then I confirmed it before receiving the tech. passports. It was a long time ago, about 7 years ago, at Sorg 58 there was then an office that allowed this redevelopment. There they had a list of documents that needed to be brought. Among them are the draft and the conclusion of the sanitary and epidemiological station. The BTI did the project, and the sanitary and epidemiological station gave Shafiev some kind of certificate. With these documents + documents on ownership at Sorge 58, they issued a conclusion that “their permission is not required for the specified redevelopment” 😀 And already with this paperwork, the BTI issued a new registration certificate. The total cost was 5-6 thousand.
24-03-2015, 16:29
In fact, there are a lot of problems, this is a transfer from a dry to a wet zone, or vice versa. In short, forget it, it’s a problem, do it, and when you sell it, then you’ll legitimize it or you’ll end up with the buyer.
area 1.2 sqm... I went down to the neighbors below, they did what I wanted, moved the toilet there, it turned out awesome. They didn’t ask anyone anything and did everything
practices
24-03-2015, 18:44
Well, now you don’t violate anything by making a wet room over a wet one 😀
That’s what I’m saying to the BTI people, if the neighbors don’t mind, then why not... it’s not possible and that’s all)
Alien
24-03-2015, 18:57
if you have a city apartment, do whatever you want, but if you decide to sell, they will impose an encumbrance, you will still have to legitimize it.
I found the piece of paper on which the redevelopment was legalized for me at the BTI. It turns out it's from the administration. At Sorg it was Rospotrebnadzor, they also issued some kind of certificate.
I advise you to contact them immediately and clarify what certificates they need, etc. you need them to give you the same piece of paper.
It’s just that the BTI then told me that I needed a certificate from the firefighters, I did that too, but in the end no one needed it.
Alien
24-03-2015, 19:18
did you pay the loot?:D:D
😀 In the end, for all the certificates, the project and the registration certificate in 2008, it cost me 5-6 thousand.
The project itself cost 3t.r. The author was asked for something too much (25 thousand rubles).
Such redevelopment is insignificant and does not require permission from the administration! - that's the main joke. 😀
Here’s the thing... I called the BTI and they said come to us, the administration said that nothing would work out, but they gave me a telephone office at Blucher 2/2 (Urban Design Center, Ufa City District Administration) , you advise going to Rospotrebnadzor at Zorg)) where to start then)
Alien
24-03-2015, 21:08
Here’s the thing.. you understand the bathroom.. Rospotrebnadzor can be in charge here.. if you move the push into the pantry, won’t your toilet end up above the neighbor’s kitchen downstairs.. well, you understand.. my advice to you, don’t start this crap. You’ll lose a lot of nerves , time and money... I tore down half a meter of wall in my last apartment, I had to do so much paperwork. I just went nuts.
Downstairs the neighbors have the same hut as mine, they have a storage room there according to the project, where they made a toilet.
I later wrote that I took another certificate from Rosportebnadzor after the sanitary and epidemiological station.
First, go to Blucher and find out what they need (what kind of certificates). Maybe a minimum of certificates are needed, because...
such redevelopment is insignificant (does not affect bearing structures)!
They should eventually give you paper like the one in the photo. With this piece of paper you will later come to the BTI and they will make a new registration certificate.
thank you..tomorrow I will start the long journey)
It took me 3 months. 🙂 But I started with the BTI, and made extra inquiries based on their advice. I think if you start with this design center on Blucher, it will be faster and easier. Good luck!
Thank you
24-03-2015, 23:33
It can be done, but it will most likely have to be settled through the courts.
If the neighbors below sign a paper that they are not against it, then it’s real. No one will sign the transfer of wet zones without their consent. I would start with the neighbors.
24-03-2015, 23:41
Are you going to sell it, remove the toilet, how long will it take?
Estrangella Edessa
25-03-2015, 08:01
1, I also don’t understand why these dances with legalization
How about walking through the rest of the floors along this riser? Surely many have already done just that!
and what will this give?!
I drove to Blucher, they gave me a reminder about collecting docks
http://linkme.ufanet.ru/images/70b99...1a0795f44b.jpg
So... today I picked up the project with a contract for author's supervision - 4 thousand rubles... I immediately handed it over to the Hygiene Center and the ERCC... at the hygiene center they said the conclusion would cost over a thousand, and at the ERCC 2500 (for what?!?!? I don't understand)
30-03-2015, 22:15
Then the question is, is it worth bothering with legalizing a partition on a common balcony?
I share a balcony with my neighbor and have a fire escape.
Nikola Vasilievich
16-04-2015, 22:00
Don't worry about moving sanitaryware. Just go to the pantry.
in a box that is in the pantry?!)
16-04-2015, 22:06
don't bother
or a greenhouse, right?:D
Vetrogan Buraganovich
17-04-2015, 16:34
what's the point?
write your stories
I will write to you))
There is a handy plumber.
I’ll give you his phone number, he’ll come, look at the place and tell you what and how
I gave one and a half rubles to the SES, they approved it. I took all the documents to the administration of my district, they said that everything is simple and why there is so much to do - projects, etc., they say I would do it, and then legalize it... my case is worse))
That's it, approval is in hand...
Bathroom renovation: how to move a toilet to another
In standard apartments the bathroom occupies small area. Property owners resort to various tricks to ensure that every centimeter of space is used to its maximum benefit. Therefore, it is not surprising that as a result of design research, the need arises to move the toilet away from the riser.
This is not an easy event. The easiest way is to contact plumbing specialists who probably know how to move the toilet to another place. But to do this, you will have to adapt to their work schedule and change your plans. And perhaps even refuse important events. Despite the complexity of the matter, you can do it on your own. The main thing is to understand the essence of the issue and correctly perform all the necessary work.
Moving the toilet: possible risks
At first glance, there is nothing simpler than moving the toilet to another place, fixing it there and starting to fully use it.
But moving the plumbing unit away from the riser provokes an elongation of the sewer pipes approaching it. Which, in turn, causes excessive vacuum during flushing and failure of the water seal in other plumbing fixtures. A this process always accompanied by gurgling sounds and unpleasant sewer odors.
Also, moving the toilet away from the riser often causes blockages. Since the length of the transport pipes increases, automatically lengthening the path of sewage. Theoretically, at correct installation pipes and, regardless of their length, the drains in any case reach the outlet into the general sewer system. But, as practice shows, the longer the pipes, the higher the likelihood of blockages. According to the requirements of SNiP, the plumbing fixture must be installed no further than one and a half meters from the riser. This is the only way to avoid the above problems.
An important indicator when moving a toilet to another place is maintaining the slope of the sewer pipes. According to the rules, if the diameter of the parts is 100 mm, the slope should be 2 cm per meter. With a diameter of 50 mm, the slope is 3 or more centimeters per meter. If these rules are not followed, the speed of wastewater transportation is reduced and blockages may occur.
Sometimes, to comply with the rules for tilting pipes, it is necessary to install a plumbing fixture on a pedestal or mount a wall-mounted one wall hung toilet. Both options have a place, but the second also requires the installation of a box on the wall for installation and concealment of water and waste pipes. Therefore, the easiest way is to use the first option - installing the equipment on a pedestal.
And one more important point. If you want to minimize the likelihood of blockages, then the transport sewer channel from the toilet to the riser should be laid in a straight line and not have right angle turns.
Relocating a toilet - will there be problems with flushing?
If it is impossible to lay the pipeline in such a way, two corner pipes of 45 0 are installed in places of sharp bends of 90 0.
How to move a toilet: complex and simple methods
Optimizing space in the bathroom requires moving equipment. Within the rules and without harsh consequences, it can be moved to different distance(within one and a half meters) and turn. Depending on the transfer distance, a simple and a complex method are distinguished.
Easy way
It involves moving the toilet to the side a short distance - 15 - 20 cm. To do this, you need to carefully dismantle the old device. Since, if it is mounted on glue or mortar, and the outlet neck is coated with cement, one careless movement can cause cracks to appear on the toilet. Therefore, after turning off the water, carefully and carefully:
- we clear the space between the bell and the outlet from the layer of putty using a narrow chisel and a strong screwdriver;
- With a little effort we try to loosen the toilet. This may require the help of a wide chisel - it must be carefully hammered in different places under the base of the bowl. We loosen it until the equipment begins to swing freely;
- lift the toilet. Grasping the rim of the device’s bowl with your hands, we first direct the efforts towards ourselves, and then, also carefully, along the axis sewer pipe, we try to remove the outlet bell from it. If the device is stuck, there is no need to apply much force, as you may break the toilet. It is better to return to the second point of the instructions and rock the device again.
If your device is installed on standard fasteners and connected to the pipe via rubber cuff- you are very lucky. Since to dismantle it, it is enough to unscrew the standard fastenings to the floor and remove the outlet by pushing the device towards you and turning it along the axis of the pipe.
After dismantling the device, you can begin preparing for its installation in a new location. We inspect the existing flexible connection for integrity and, if necessary, replace it with a new corrugation. The design of the corrugation assumes the presence of sealing rubber rings at both ends. But to avoid the possibility of leaks, you should still use silicone sealant. You should also take care of special fasteners; they are steel and equipped with plastic washers. Then we proceed to install the device:
- Mark the mounting points on the floor with a pencil. We drill holes: if the floor is concrete, we use a drill with pobedit coating, if it is tile, we take a special drill larger diameter than fasteners;
- we clean the toilet outlet and socket from dirt, the old layer of cement, dust and other deposits, and wipe them dry;
- apply corrugations on one side of the sealing ring silicone sealant, and pull it onto the toilet socket;
- install and secure the device using prepared screws with plastic washers. Tighten carefully;
- to create additional support, coat the resulting gaps between the floor and the base with cement;
- to complete the installation, lubricate the sealing ring on the other side of the corrugation with sealant, and insert the corrugation into the socket of the sewer pipe.
A difficult option, or how to move the toilet from the riser to 30 centimeters or more
If, according to the design project, it is necessary to move the toilet to a greater distance than the length of the corrugation allows, then you will have to rework the sewer system. Dismantling and subsequent installation is carried out according to the same scheme as in the first option. The differences lie in the need to expand the sewer pipeline. Most often, pipes of 110 mm are taken for this event. The length and number of elements, as well as the configuration of the connecting parts, directly depend on the new location of the plumbing fixture. Pad plastic pipes They are carried out either on the floor, or they are mounted to the wall using special clamps.
What should you pay attention to?
To lay the sewer system at the floor level, it is necessary to remove the outlet to the toilet from the tee or cross. With plastic pipes everything is simple (everything can be easily removed and cleaned). If the parts are cast iron, you will have to resort to help gas burner or blowtorch in order to destroy the sealant and cement putty through heating. After which you can easily remove the pipe from the socket.
It is recommended to start laying a new pipeline from the riser, observing the slope rules. Installation of plastic pipes in a cast iron socket involves the use of a special sealing collar. For better sealing, lubricate its joint with silicone glue.
The easiest way to connect to a new pipeline is to use a corrugated pipe, providing free access to it to monitor its integrity. Instead of corrugation, you can install a special adapter pipe, which will provide a more durable connection.
This should be done by a person who knows how to use a drill or hammer drill. Or you may need to fill the screed and lay the tiles. Those. You will either need to undertake the repairs yourself or hire specialists.
Is it possible to move the toilet in the apartment to another place?
But the toilet replacement itself begins even before the actual work on site, with the choice new plumbing. It may be more expensive or cheaper, with double flush, with fragrance, with audio system and other popular options.
The toilet is installed on level base, most often it turns out to be laid ceramic tile. Accordingly, the bottom of the purchased plumbing fixtures must be perfectly flat. There are two answers to the question of how the toilet will be connected to the riser: either through the old drain neck, or by redoing the joint. Must have good reasons to complicate the repair, therefore, in the vast majority of cases, a device with a similar drain is initially chosen - at an angle of 45 or 90°. The neck of the toilet is connected to the riser through a glass; the installation angle is determined precisely by the spatial orientation of the glass.
If you really liked the toilet in the store original look, but with a neck at a different angle - you need to take into account the location of the sewer outlet, and the easiest way is to take a universal model, with an oblique drain. Drain the toilet water coming from the tank. The supply hole from this container can be on different sides - replacement assumes that the outlet is already installed. Accordingly, it is easiest to connect a new tank with a similar hole location, or through a long pipe.
Technical details
For a modest-sized bathroom, the dimensions of the toilet itself are also relevant, especially if the door opens into the room. There is such a criterion: open the door, use a tape measure to measure the distance from the edge of the door to the nearest wall of the sewer, then subtract another 15 cm - you get the maximum permissible length of the toilet.
When replacing, it is assumed that you will first have to dismantle the old plumbing fixtures and then install new ones. When the toilet is embedded in the floor, you will have to break the device. If there is an old cast iron tee, with bends of 100 and 75 mm, it is recommended to change it too - the plastic one is more compact and more durable. You just need to change it carefully, because... There is another tee on the riser, an intermediate one - and it is very advisable not to damage it.
If you had to knock out a walled-in toilet and then fill in the screed, you will have to wait a week for the solution to dry. Special dowels are used to fix plumbing fixtures. Important point: before connecting the drain, the joint is thoroughly cleaned of debris and salt - otherwise the corner or corrugation will not fit tightly, and the connection will leak. And one more thing: to be able to repair or clean the toilet, it is recommended to cut the tap into the pipe before connecting the tank - then you won’t have to disconnect the entire system from the water supply.
This article is intellectual property SAN-TECHNO company.
Any reprint, full or partial, is required to indicate the author of the article and a hyperlink to the source.
Good afternoon Your problem is completely solvable. SNiP allows the toilet to be moved, but warns that the distance from the plumbing fixture to the sewer riser should not exceed 1.5 m. There are two reasons for this:
- Large removal provokes excessive vacuum in the pipes. What does this mean for the apartment owner? At the very least, there is a constant unpleasant smell of sewage in the apartment and loud gurgling sounds coming from the plumbing. The fact is that excessive vacuum in the pipes with each flush will “suck” water from all nearby plumbing fixtures and break their water seals, the main function of which is to prevent the penetration of unpleasant odors into the room.
- The longer the sewer pipes, the higher the risk of encountering blockages. Theoretically, sewage will be able to reach the riser in any case, but the greater the distance they have to travel, the higher the chance of them getting stuck in the pipe. In addition, it is important to maintain the optimal slope of sewer lines. If the slope of the pipe is insufficient, the speed of sewage movement will be low, which will inevitably lead to a blockage. If the pipeline slope is too large, liquid waste will flow too quickly, but solid sewage will stop and accumulate.
So, in order to move the toilet some distance from the riser and not encounter problems, you need to follow three rules:
- The distance from the riser to the plumbing fixture cannot be more than 1.5 m.
- The slope of a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm should be 2 cm per meter. Smaller elements with a diameter of 50 mm are laid at a slope of 3 cm per meter.
- No right angles. If for some reason this is not possible, you need to lay two 45° elbows instead of one 90° piece.
In practice, fulfilling the second point is troublesome. This is due to the fact that ensuring the required slope is not long distance impossible. Therefore, most often you have to raise the toilet above the floor level and install it on a small podium. This solution is considered optimal because it makes it possible to ensure the required slope of the sewer pipe and at the same time hide all communications. Alternatively, you can raise the floor level, which is no less troublesome. In addition, in this case the height of the room will decrease.
To ensure the required slope of the sewer pipe, the toilet can be raised onto a low podium
It happens that you need to move plumbing fixtures to a distance greater than that recommended in SNiP, or for some reason it is impossible to fulfill the above requirements. Even in this case, you can find a solution to the problem, or rather, two at once. The first is to transfer sewer riser. It is highly undesirable to do this, since the procedure is very troublesome and time-consuming. A simpler solution is to install special equipment that provides forced sewerage. The device will force the system to work in conditions where traditional gravity sewerage cannot function normally.
The optimal solution is to install a fecal pump or, as it is also called, a sololift. The equipment is a pump, which is equipped with blade-shaped grinders. The device forcibly pumps out sewage, solid waste grinds with blades, and then pushes the resulting mass into the sewer. The device is compact in size and quite easy to install. Moreover, to install it you will not need to perform any additional construction work.
Depending on the power of the equipment, it makes it possible to remove wastewater up to 100 m horizontally, and vertically by 5-7 m. In addition, if necessary, the pump allows the use of small diameter pipes: 18-40 mm. If you plan to connect to sewer system also a shower cabin or a washing machine, you need to choose the right sololift model. Most of them are designed to work with cold wastewater; hot ones will damage the device. Therefore, it is worth choosing a device that is designed to work with high temperatures.
Sololift is a compact device that is installed behind the toilet
A small nuance: there are pump models with special protection, which allows the device to pump hot wastewater. However, this protection is short-lived, its effect does not exceed 30 minutes. Constant work with hot liquid is contraindicated for such devices in the same way as for conventional mechanisms. Therefore, it is better to choose a heat-resistant device. Thus, moving the toilet is quite possible; choose any method that suits you.
In standard-type apartments, the bathroom most often has the most limited territory; it is for this reason that the owners have to use every detail as painstakingly as possible. free space. As a result, very often there is a desire to move the toilet to another corner or turn it around. This event is responsible and difficult. In order to carry out the work, you can turn to specialists, or you can do it on your own, the main thing is to figure out how to do the job correctly.
If the toilet needs to be moved to a distance that does not exceed 20 cm, then the work will not be difficult. The placement of the equipment can be any. The main thing to know minimum distance not only in relation to pipes or walls, but also for the sink. To move the toilet to the left or right, you must first remove its connection from the elbows and the water supply. You should start by removing the old device. If old toilet was installed with cement or special glue, you will have to tinker with its removal. If you do even one wrong action, the toilet may break. Of course, if you plan to install a new device, then there is no need to be careful, but if this is not the case, then you need to turn off the water and carefully carry out dismantling.
It consists of 3 steps:
- We eliminate it by placing putty in the space between the sewer pipe and the toilet outlet. In order to carry out this work, you can use a thin chisel or a flat-head screwdriver.
- We carefully begin to loosen the toilet. Here it would be appropriate to use a wide chisel, which needs to be hammered into different places. This action must be repeated until the device begins to swing thoroughly.
- We are trying to lift the device. To do this, carefully pull it towards you and remove the release along the axis. Experts say that if the device does not give in, then you should not use force; try to swing it even more and only then pull.
A toilet that was installed with standard fasteners and connected to the sewer with a rubber cuff will be much easier to remove. To remove it, you will need to remove the screws, which are the main fastening. After this, pull the device towards you and remove its outlet.
If you want the device to be in working order after removal, all manipulations must be carried out very carefully.
Also be extremely careful when removing the sealing putty. After all the dismantling work has been carried out, you can begin preparing to install the toilet in a new location. Carefully inspect the flexible hose; if it is not long enough or it is leaking, you need to replace it with a new one. If you are satisfied with everything, we leave it in its old place. You can find out how the toilet looks in the corner, how to move it diagonally, lift it and place it on the podium in the photo; one day is enough for training.
What to do if there is an unpleasant smell in the apartment? Some advice for those who want to get rid of it:
We answer the question: how to raise the toilet higher above the floor
When it comes to bathroom renovations, many are faced with the problem of changing the level of the outlet and pipes for connecting plumbing. This mainly happens because the floor level changes and the plumbing is rearranged. In any case, the task arises of raising the toilet higher.
In order to cope with the problem of mismatched fittings, it is enough to purchase new adapters. If you have a problem with the mismatch of the pipeline axes, then it is better to use flexible hoses or arrange new gaskets for the pipes. The coincidence of these holes determines at what level from the floor your toilet will be located.
First you need to choose a place for installation and install the device on wooden beams in order to organize new level.
Make sure that the horizontal position is maintained and that all axes and the drain pipe are aligned.
After this, remove the fixtures and measure the thickness of the pads that you installed to create a new level for the plumbing.
To replace the toilet lid so that the fasteners match. You will learn how to choose and install it correctly if you read our material:
In order to have an idea of how to do the above, you must think through all the intricacies of the base in advance. You can use wood, but it won't be the best the best option, since wood rots under the influence of condensation. It would be best to use concrete screed. In this case, screws and dowels will be needed for fastening. On this moment Fastening the device to the base with glue is widespread.
Is it possible to increase the distance from the toilet to the riser?
In order to expand the available space in toilet room Many people decide to take such a step as moving the toilet from one side to the other. Moving the device to another corner is possible, but in order for it to continue to function fully, you need to know some points.
As for the pipeline, certain requirements are also put forward for it, which must immediately be taken into account.
For example:
- You can use pipes with a diameter from 50 to 100 mm, the most optimal are pipes with a cross-section of 100 mm;
- The distance from the device to the riser should be a maximum of 1.5 m; if the length is longer, then the drain power from the barrel will not be enough to push through the waste and a blockage will appear;
- Observe the correct slope, it depends on the cross-section of the pipe.
If the slope is too low, there is a high probability of clogging as the fluid flow is reduced. If, on the contrary, the slope is too high, then the flow rate will be excessive and solid parts will collect in the pipe, which will subsequently block the movement of water. You can learn how to move the toilet close to the wall, what the maximum distance should be from the wall and how far the toilet can be from the drain from the training video.
The installation of a toilet in an apartment must be carried out efficiently. Full Algorithm actions and advice from professionals on the next page:
Changing the situation: how to rotate the toilet 90 degrees
Sometimes situations arise when you want to completely change the design of the bathroom and purchase new toilet, in this case, you can rotate the toilet 90 degrees. The work is very simple, the main thing is to know some technical nuances, rules and subtleties.
To carry out the rearrangement, it is not at all necessary to digest the pipes.
Recently, the use of corner bends and corrugated pipes has become popular.
Corrugated pipes are best suited for deploying a toilet in an already installed place. If you not only unfold the device, but also move it to another place, then it is more advisable to use pipes of the required diameter, which are made of plastic. Using such methods, you can easily not only unfold, but also move the toilet to the desired location. But make sure that the corrugation is not subjected to excessive stretching, as this can lead to rupture. This method will help not only to turn the device around, but also to move it in another direction, for example, closer to the sink, or move it as much as necessary.
How to move the toilet to another place (video)
As you can see from this article, moving a toilet is not such a difficult task, of course, if you are confident in your skills. If you are planning to do this for the first time, and are not aware of all the intricacies, then it is better to contact specialists who will not only carefully carry out the installation, but also organize careful dismantling, so that the old device will not be damaged and will last for a long time.
A toilet in an apartment is usually small room in which the owner tries to use every centimeter of space. To improve its functionality, it is sometimes necessary to relocate the toilet. You can entrust this procedure to a specialist, but it is easy to do it yourself if you have the skills to use the tool.
Why is the toilet moved?
There can be several reasons for moving a toilet.
- Moving walls with subsequent expansion of the room. The old location may cause inconvenience to the owner.
- The old toilet is being replaced with new model. Often it comes in a different size or configuration.
- When purchasing other plumbing equipment (automatic washing machine, shower), you need to move the toilet, dismantling it and moving it to another place.
What might you encounter during the transfer?
When remodeling a room, it is easy to free up the necessary space, ensuring ease of movement. This could be moving plumbing equipment, that is, moving the toilet to the side. But it is worth remembering a number of features; for example, such manipulations increase the likelihood of clogging when the plumbing fixtures are moved away from the riser.
And when the water is washed off, the appearance of unpleasant odor from the sewer and gurgling water. The longer the pipes, the higher the air vacuum. Therefore, it can tear, which contributes to the appearance of a stench.
To avoid such troubles, the owner of the apartment must pay attention to SNiP when moving it independently.
The moved toilet is lifted and the pipe is covered. Experienced plumbers recommend making a small pedestal for the toilet. But it should be remembered that it is necessary that the updated pipeline does not have right angles.
Dismantling
The simplest option is if the toilet is secured with conventional fasteners and connected to a rubber drain collar.
- The fastening is removed. If plumbing fixtures are screwed to the wall, care must be taken not to damage them. When fixing it to the wall, just unscrew it with a key or screwdriver.
- Carefully push it towards you, moving it in the direction of the bell. We pull out the release. You don’t have to turn off the water; the main thing is not to press the button to drain the water. When gluing or sitting on cement, it is more difficult to remove the toilet and it is important not to break it during dismantling.
- Use a screwdriver to remove the putty between the outlet and the socket. This is done slowly and carefully to avoid damage.
- We drive a chisel under the base of the equipment. After making several blows, we check whether the installed toilet will become loose.
- Carefully loosen it and pull it towards you, after which you need to pull the outlet out of the socket.
Measurements
Before moving the toilet from the riser, we measure the distance for moving the plumbing. To do this, measure the length from the riser to one and a half meters, mark it with chalk, and draw an arc.
We mark the place where we will put the toilet and install it. It is advisable that this area should not be further than the marked line. We measure the difference from the center of the pipe to the floor. The resulting value is compared with the insertion point. If it is larger, then you will have to make a pedestal. It is recommended to raise the drain pipe 3 cm above the insertion point.
We fix the toilet on the made pedestal or screw it to the floor. We make a connection to the drain, avoiding right angles as much as possible. It is not necessary to connect the water with a rigid supply; simply connect it using a flexible hose.
In cases where the pipe needs to be extended to a distance of more than 150 cm from the riser or SNiP is difficult to comply with, you can move the riser or make a forced sewer.
Installing a toilet
If the toilet drains water well, then there is no need to change the flexible hose.
Forced sewerage
If the toilet is moved from the riser to the side, and the distance from the riser is too large, then it is recommended to install forced sewerage. It is done in cases where the usual drain configuration does not cope with its functions. Usually the apartment owner is recommended to install a sololift. This device is mounted in cistern or taken out behind the toilet. This is a pump with blades that grinds solid waste or feces that ends up in the toilet.
It pumps out wastewater, grinds waste and directs it into the drain. The sololift is easy to hide in a plasterboard structure due to the thickness of the pipe (18–40 mm). This device is different high power, it can carry feces 100 meters horizontally.
For a sololift, the temperature of the waste water is important; it should be no more than 50 degrees. More specific information can be found in the instructions for the purchased device model. This is important when the drain is formed not only from water in the toilet, but also for a bidet, sink, shower or bathtub.
If you do not comply with the requirements for temperature conditions, then the pump can be damaged. Some models have functions that allow you to download for up to half an hour hot water, but it is not recommended to do this constantly.
Periodically, the owner needs to clean the device using a solution to remove deposits on the walls. It is not recommended to use organic solvents; they corrode the rubber seal. The pump runs on mains power and is useless when the power is turned off.
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It is human nature to crave comfort. He tries to improve his home, making it even more cozy and comfortable. Very often such changes affect one of the most important places Each house has a bathroom. It has a small area on which homeowners want to place as many useful things as possible, so they strive to use every free centimeter. The result of design research is often the removal of the toilet from the riser, a difficult and responsible undertaking. How to do all the work correctly? Let's figure it out.
At first glance, moving the toilet bowl some distance from the sewer pipe does not pose any problems. However, it is not. Experts warn that the further the equipment is installed, the longer the distance the sewage will have to travel. Theoretically, they will “get” to the goal in any case, but the likelihood of blockages increases many times over. Another problem may be the risk of severe vacuum in excessively long pipes. In this case, with each flush, it will suck water from nearby equipment, breaking the water seal. The process is accompanied by loud gurgling sounds and unpleasant sewer odors.
An ornate connection can cause frequent blockages. To avoid such problems, you should strictly follow the requirements of the current SNIP. He does not recommend moving the device more than 1.5 m from the riser. A certain slope must be observed under which the pipe is laid. It is 2 cm per meter. This value is established for pipes with a diameter of 100 mm. If the diameter of the part is 50 mm, the slope should be 3 cm per meter. Increasing the recommended settings will cause the water to drain too quickly, without capturing solid contaminants that may accumulate in the pipe. Reducing the slope will reduce the fluid velocity, which can also lead to clogs.
Moving the toilet is often the only solution to optimize space in the bathroom
It turns out that the new place will have to be raised. Depending on the distance from the riser, this can be a decent amount. In addition, do not forget about the pipe leading to the equipment; it will need to be disguised in some way. Given the diameter, it may be necessary to raise the floor to a significant height or equip a special podium. Another nuance: lay a new pipeline without right angles. If this is not possible, instead of one 90° angle, make two 45° angles. Otherwise, the risk of blockages increases sharply.
To ensure the required slope, you will have to climb
Despite the fact that all the above requirements are quite troublesome to fulfill, they are mandatory when moving plumbing equipment. But these recommendations do not help if you need to install the device at a large distance from the riser or if for some reason you do not want to scrupulously comply with all the requirements of SNIP. It will help either to move the pipes, which is extremely difficult, or to use special equipment designed for arranging forced sewerage.
Devices for forced waste disposal
It is a system designed to perform when traditional gravity-fed designs fail. To set it up, a device called fecal pump or sololift. The equipment is quite compactly located inside the tank or behind it. It is a pump equipped with special chopper blades. It pumps out wastewater, grinds solid contaminants, and sends the resulting mass where it should be.
It is very important that the diameter of the pipe used can be small - from 18 to 40 mm, which makes it possible to easily hide them, for example, behind a plasterboard wall. The power is quite high, which makes it possible to discharge wastewater to a distance of about 100 m horizontally and about 5-7 m vertically. The latter may be relevant if the level at which the bathroom is located is lower than required. Installation is quite simple, without the use of additional construction work.
Compact grinder pump located behind the toilet
The pump has temperature restrictions for waste water. Maximum values vary from +35C to +50C. This information should be found in your passport. It will only be relevant if, in addition to the toilet, a shower, bidet, washbasin, etc. are also connected to the pump. For this purpose, an additional inlet hole is provided on the body. If the requirements for the temperature of the pumped liquid are not met, the device fails. In some models you can find special short-term protection that allows you to pump hot wastewater for about 30 minutes, but this cannot be done constantly.
Types of fecal pumps. The equipment is very easy to maintain. All that is required of the owner is periodic cleaning. To do this, a special solution is poured along with water to destroy deposits on the walls. It is important to ensure that no organic solvent gets in with the waste water; the substance can corrode the rubber seals. The main disadvantage is considered to be its volatility, which does not allow the mechanism to function during a power outage.
How to move a toilet from a riser: description of the process
Recommendations for transfer in the technical part are very little different from instructions for connecting equipment. The only difference will be the installation process of a longer pipeline connecting the device to the sewer. But the installation of a grinder pump differs in some nuances that are worth considering in more detail. Purchase a device with an inlet pipe diameter that matches the toilet outlet diameter. Otherwise, installation will simply be impossible.
The diameter of the inlet pipe must match the size of the outlet
Proper installation of equipment is carried out according to the manufacturer's instructions. It includes the steps:
- We insert supply pipes or connecting elbows into the pipes.
- We install the pump behind the toilet and securely fasten it to the floor with screws. For this purpose, there are special holes on the device body.
- The pipes leading to the pump must be laid with a slope of 3 cm per meter. This will ensure the flow of wastewater by gravity.
- We connect the outlet sewer pipe to the outlet.
- Models with a separate ventilation outlet require the ventilation duct to be installed above the ridge of the building's roof. It is mounted after connecting the device. There are more simple options, ensuring the absence of unpleasant odors using a carbon filter built into the housing.
Models with a built-in carbon filter are easier to install
- We connect the equipment to the network. If the model is equipped with a plug, it is connected to electricity. If not, then it is connected to the network through an RCD machine.
- We connect pipeline elements using welding, soldering or adhesive joints. All arranged bends of inlet and outlet pipe elements should be as smooth as possible.
- The device also drains wastewater in a vertical plane. If necessary, the vertical section of the pipe should be installed no further than 30 cm from the outlet. Otherwise provide normal pressure inside the pipeline will not be possible.
- We must install at the outlet pipe of the chopper check valve, which is necessary to prevent the return flow of sewage in the event of an emergency.
Any redevelopment, no matter how simple it may seem, must be carried out extremely competently. This is relevant for cases when the standard arrangement of plumbing equipment changes. Everything must be carefully calculated and accurately executed. Even small mistakes can lead to chronic problems in the form of constant blockages and unpleasant odors from the bathroom. For those who do not have experience in carrying out work of this kind, it is best to turn to specialists. They will consider specific conditions and give recommendations for purchasing necessary equipment, and they will carry it out efficiently. Only in this case can we guarantee Good work toilet, which will be installed where the homeowner planned.