Do-it-yourself brick stove - structural diagram. Brick kilns: types, design, calculations, independent construction technology. Furnace structure and its properties

The need for warmth and comfort in a private home arises already in mid-autumn, and it’s good if the house is central heating. Those who have to heat their home autonomously will have to thoroughly prepare for the autumn-winter season. The problem can be solved today modern boilers or electric fireplaces, but they will not create that special unique atmosphere of a live fire in the stove, accompanied by the crackling of wood. Therefore, it is quite correct if the following question arises for you: “How to build a brick stove with your own hands?” In this article we will look at the process of creating a brick oven in stages, taking into account diagrams and all the materials and tools necessary during the laying process. All you have to do is correctly repeat all the processes described, and you will become the owner of a good quality home oven, which will warm you on cold winter evenings.

It is very easy to make a stove out of brick if you have a clear idea of ​​what type of stove will ideally fit into the conditions of your building. To do this you need to familiarize yourself with brief characteristics private houses, and based on the information received, make right choice. So, the types of stoves relative to the type of buildings.

1. Stove in a wooden house. An oven of this type needs very reliable basis. It is better to provide for the presence of a stove at the stage of building a house, then you can significantly reduce the cost of creating a foundation for stove equipment. If the stove was not included in the house construction project, then you will have to spend money on partial dismantling of the floors and subsequent Finishing work. There is no other way out. The best option for a wooden house would be a compact stove made of brick heating and cooking type with medium heat capacity, as well as a fireplace stove or an option with a bread maker.

   

   

2. Classic Russian stove for a cottage. This option is losing popularity due to the massiveness and complexity of the masonry. Such a large stove with the functions of cooking, heating water, heating and a sleeping place, that is, a sun lounger, is very convenient, but will not fit into the house small area, and also requires the mandatory creation of an individual monolithic reinforced base.

   

3. Stove in a country house. Ideal for country house There will be a stove with a hob and a heating water tank.

   

4. Stove in a cottage or country house. Cottages and dachas require visits only during a certain season or on weekends, which means that in such a building it will be sufficient to install a small brick stove with hob. In this case, it is worth taking a closer look at furnace design, folded along summer version, when the warmed air will be directed directly into the chimney, and not into the heat exchange channels.

   

   

5. Stove for a home with a sauna. If you have a bathhouse attached to your house, it is quite possible to build a brick stove with a built-in boiler for heating residential premises.

   

6. Barbecue oven. Such units are usually installed in attics, gazebos or summer kitchens. They can be modest in size or very impressive, but are equally used only for cooking, so they are equipped, for example, with hobs, ovens, barbecues, barbecue grills, cast iron cauldrons, etc.

   

   

   Barbecue cooker with oven

This is all that needs to be taken into account in order to correctly determine the type of suitable furnace equipment. We can move on.

Stove maker's advice. When deciding on the size of the stove structure, first of all pay attention to such points as ease of use and fire safety!

Stage 2. Building material: choice

When choosing a brick, you need to consider how resistant it will be to the influence of high temperatures, while the main emphasis should be placed on the integrity of the material after repeating the heating and cooling procedure. The characteristics of brick as a building material will determine the service life of the kiln. It is important!

Choosing a brick

Any brick is marked. One of them denotes density. For stoves, it is optimal to purchase bricks marked from 75 to 250, but it is worth remembering that the denser the product, the slower the stove will have to be melted, and the slower it will heat up. On the other hand, a well-heated stove made of dense brick will slowly cool, giving off its soft heat to the atmosphere.

If you plan to build a stove in a bathhouse, it is better to choose the least dense brick (but above M100) so that kindling does not take much time. And for appliances intended for heating residential premises and cooking, it is worth purchasing denser bricks.

It is worth knowing that the density indicator is not a sign of the quality of the brick. However, it is better to clarify the composition so as not to purchase a product with chemical impurities hazardous to health.

The next marking is the frost resistance of the product. This indicator is especially important (and should be the highest) for that part of the chimney that is located above the roof. Frost resistance itself is the property of a product to absorb moisture, which during crystallization deforms the material. Best performance frost resistance of hollow facing bricks, but the inside of the chimney can be laid out of solid red brick. High-quality products with a high level of frost resistance are produced in Novgorod region, city of Borovichi.

It is advisable to purchase red bricks made by plastic molding. These products have few pores, they withstand temperature changes well, and the masonry does not crack even after long downtime ovens. Products made of silicate, pressed, cast using the slip casting method, and unfired raw materials are not suitable for the construction of furnaces.

Fireclay bricks made according to GOST can withstand up to 1350 degrees. You can build the entire furnace from such bricks or use it only for lining the internal working surfaces of the furnace. For masonry of the firebox, you can use straw-yellow products of the Sh8 brand with dark inclusions; for the firebox vault, fireclay bricks Sh22 - Sh45 are suitable. However, this recommendation does not apply to sauna stoves, because fireclay bricks are used only with a humidity of less than 60%. It’s better to use it in a bath clinker brick or ceramic fireproof.

Prices for fireclay bricks

fireclay brick

How to check the quality of bricks:

• If you drop the product on the floor, it will break into large pieces. If the brick crumbles into crumbs, discard the batch;
• if you touch a brick, it does not generate dust;
• if a high-quality product is hit with a hammer, there will be a clear, clear, long-lasting sound;
• edges good brick smooth, the color is rich and even.

GOST 530-2012. CERAMIC BRICK AND STONE. File for download

GOST 8691-73. FIREPROOF PRODUCTS FOR GENERAL PURPOSE. SHAPE AND SIZES. File for download

Choosing a mortar

The choice of mortar is an important point. If the solution is incorrect, the stove will smoke, and cracks may very soon appear on the surface of the structure.

Most often, masonry mortar is prepared from fine-grained sifted river sand (sand grains maximum 1.5 mm) and clay, which must be soaked for several hours before mixing. The soaked clay is ground through a sieve to get rid of lumps, because the masonry joint should not exceed five millimeters in thickness.

Clay mortar - preparation

The proportions for the clay solution depend on the quality of the clay - the fatter it is, the more sand, but it is important not to make the solution too thin, which will dry out and crack. It is recommended to do several test mixing of the solutions to determine the required proportions of sand and clay, and it is important to thoroughly mix the sand, adding it in several stages.

A test for fat content is done by taking half a fist of the material, moistening it and kneading it thoroughly, rolling it into a ball, and then placing and squeezing it between two smooth boards. If the ball was able to be compressed by a third of its diameter and no cracks appeared, then the solution is suitable for laying a furnace. An additional quality check is drying a ball with a diameter of 5 cm in air for 20 days. Dried ball good quality will not crumple when you press on it.

How much water to pour? We make test batches again and check the degree of fluidity of the solution. We run the trowel over the mixed solution and look at the mark:

• if it is torn, then there is not enough water;
• if you swam almost instantly, there is an excess of moisture;
• if the mark is clear and the edges are smooth, then the solution is suitable for laying a stove.

Figures 5 and 6 show a trowel that has been dipped into the solution. In the first case, it is too greasy, there are streaky streaks left on the trowel, you need to add a little sand, but in the second case (Fig. 6) the solution is good, the metal is slightly visible, and the streaks are patterned.

Note! For kneading masonry mixture It is advisable to use soft water. Too hard, that is, 8 degrees and above, will reduce the strength of the solution.

The final suitability test is carried out by spreading a 3 mm layer on the brick bed. The second brick is glued to the first, tapped with a mallet and waited for 5-10 minutes. During the specified time, both bricks should stick together. If the bricks do not spill even when shaken, the stove is guaranteed to last a hundred years.

Note! To lay the firebox, either fireclay sand or a mixture of equal parts of fireclay and quartz sand is added to the solution.

Video - Preparation of clay mortar for laying a stove

Clay mortar is not used for laying the foundation and fluffing the chimney. For these elements, a classic cement mortar or with the addition of lime paste is used (cement M500 or M600 - 1 part, lime paste - from 9 to 16 parts).

Important! If you think that you cannot cope with preparing, testing and mixing the clay solution, purchase ready-made stove mixtures, for example, Terracotta (20 kg, 306 rubles). For red brick, a mixture with red clay is suitable, and fire-resistant mixtures gray ideal for both red and fireclay bricks. Do not purchase ready-made mixtures containing cement.

Prices for cement M600

cement M600

Stage 3. Selection and calculation of the quantity of bricks for masonry

At the second stage, you need to carry out the optimal calculation of the dimensions of the brick oven. Having established the final size of the stove structure, you can install the required number of bricks. The red solid single brick has a fixed size of 250 (length) x 120 (width) x 65 (thickness) mm with a deviation of +/- 2 mm.

Refractory fireclay bricks, from which the firebox of almost all furnaces are laid out, are manufactured and marked according to GOST 8691-73. Size information is given in the table.

For one square meter of half-brick masonry you will need:

• excluding mortar joint - 61 bricks;
• taking into account mortar joints - 57 pieces and 0.011 cubic meters of masonry mortar.

Accordingly, for two square meters brickwork you will need 122 or 113 solid red bricks, and the estimated amount of mortar consumed will be 0.022 m3.

Please note that when laying in one brick, that is, if the thickness of the furnace wall is not 120, but already 250 mm, then 128 or 115 bricks will be used for each square meter, respectively, excluding and taking into account mortar joints, and the amount of masonry mixture will increase up to 0.027 m3.

How to make a simplified calculation of the approximate number of bricks for the entire kiln:

• the number of bricks in the first row is calculated;
• the resulting value is multiplied by the number of rows of the oven;
• the found number is multiplied by 0.8 (for heating devices) or 0.65 (for devices with a heating panel).

For example, let’s calculate the amount of bricks for a stove measuring 90x90 cm. There are 3.5 bricks per 900 mm. That is, in the first row there will be 24.5 pieces. Multiply by the number of rows 24.5x30, we get 735 pcs. We accept a coefficient of 0.65x735 pcs. = 477.75 pcs., round up to 480 and add 10% for rejection.

The number of bricks per pipe is calculated separately. Its height and design are adopted in accordance with SP 60.13330.2012 (“Heating, ventilation and air conditioning”) and SNiP 2.09.03-85 (“Smoke pipes”), which will be described in detail below. For a straight four-meter pipe you will need:

We count: 4x56=224 pcs. For otter, cutting and fluffing we add another 56 bricks and multiply the result by 10%. All that remains is to sum up the amount of brick for the stove with the same amount for the chimney.

You can more accurately calculate the amount of material by drawing up or using an existing order diagram, which shows the longitudinal and transverse sections of the stove, provides recommendations for laying the chimney and the dimensions of all elements, including doors.

This information can be used in practice, forming individual plan brick material costs.

It is worth noting: if you ultimately want to get the perfect brick stove that fits perfectly into your home, be as careful as possible, starting with the selection of stove equipment and ending with its commissioning. This approach will allow you to enjoy your personal creation for a long time in the future.

Stage 4. Choosing a furnace location

So, after you have decided on the type of stove, determined the area of ​​the stove structure, and also selected construction material and solution, proceed to choosing a location for installing the stove.

Usually the stove is installed in one of the corners of the room or against a wall - this allows you to save precious meters of living space.

The heating stove can be located in the center of the house, while simultaneously being located in several adjacent rooms with its different sides, for example, a firebox will go into the kitchen, and three other walls will heat the rooms.

It is better to build a sauna stove near the door to the steam room. This will ensure proper temperature and humidity conditions and allow air masses to circulate effectively (provided that the exhaust and supply ventilation openings are correctly located).

However, you need to remember about the distances between the surfaces of the stove, chimney and walls, ceiling. According to SNiP 2.04.05-91, you should adhere to the following distances:

Heating stoves, smoke and ventilation ducts of residential and public buildings. Rules for production and acceptance of work

Stone and stove works. Files for downloading pdf

Stage 5. Foundation

A stove made of brick has a large specific gravity, so without a reliable foundation the structure cannot be installed.

The foundation for the furnace can be monolithic reinforced concrete, pile, columnar, lined with blocks, pile-screw.

Regardless of the type, the foundation of the stove should not be connected to the foundation of the house. The type of foundation is chosen, as for a house, based on the type of soil.

1. The gravel-sandy soil allows for the development of a shallow foundation.
2. If the soil is clayey or sedimentary, it is better to pour the foundation on a crushed stone bed, while deepening it to the freezing level.
3. In permafrost zones, a pile-screw foundation is installed, paying special attention to the thermal insulation of the piles.
4. On dry rocky soils, the foundation may have minimum thickness or absent altogether.
5. Bulk soil is not suitable for installing a brick kiln.

Let's consider a method for arranging solid bases for a brick kiln.

Step 1. Depending on the type of soil and the level of its freezing, we dig a pit. We take the width and shape based on the dimensions of the oven and adding 10-15 cm to its length and width, respectively. Immediately pay attention to the location ceiling beams ceilings - a chimney pipe will have to pass between them, taking into account the deviations regulated by SNiP. It is also recommended to carry out drainage (drainage) from the furnace foundation to reduce moisture and heaving of the soil.

Step 2. We tamp the bottom of the pit and level it horizontally as much as possible. Pour a ten-centimeter layer of fine broken bricks, rubble stone or crushed stone. We repeat the tamping procedure.

Step 3. We prepare liquid cement mortar (the ratio of cement and sand is 1 to 3) and fill the embankment with it.

• combine ten-centimeter layers of crushed stone backfill with cement filling. This option is acceptable for foundations of small depth, namely up to 50 cm;

  

• install the reinforcement frame and fill it with concrete. The frame is knitted with reinforcement wire with a diameter of 10 mm. The cell size is 10x10 cm. Formwork is installed in the pit; the frame must be 5 cm from its walls and bottom, for which plastic clamps or pieces of brick are used. Concrete is poured inside, and the mixture is compacted during the pouring process with an internal vibrator or metal rod. The top pouring point should be 15 cm below the finished floor level;

  

  

• pour a reinforced concrete slab, on top of which lay the foundation walls of sand-lime or red brick, and fill the inside with backfilled concrete (loose aggregate should be less than or equal to the volume of concrete).

  

The first and third base options are completed with a layer of cement mortar. The filled layer is checked with a level and, if necessary, leveled with a rule or other suitable tool.

Further work is carried out after the solutions used in the process of pouring the foundation have completely dried.

Step 5. We lay the waterproofing in three layers, fixing it with mastic (for roofing felt we use tar, for roofing felt we use bitumen).

Step 6. We lay out a continuous row of bricks. We place whole bricks on the edges, halves on the inside. Brick base should be 5-7 cm wider than the existing foundation, but 5-7 cm wider than the stove itself.

We do not use cement to bind bricks together. On top of the masonry, which we also check for horizontalness, we put another layer of waterproofing, then lay out the second layer of brick, observing the dressing between the two rows. The brick base should ideally be exactly level with the finished floor or rise 3-4 cm above it.

Important note! Do not use bricks for construction that have lain outside all winter and have been repeatedly exposed to wetness and freezing. Such products can quickly deteriorate, which will greatly reduce the service life of the furnace.

We fill the space between the foundation of the stove and the house with river sand.

Stage 6. Construction of a stove-heater with your own hands. Step-by-step instruction

This project can be implemented both in a separate bathhouse and in a steam room attached to a residential building. The stove does not have a tank for heating water and a heat exchanger, but it has a hob that can easily heat water for 4-6 people. At the same time, the oven cools down very slowly, so there will be warm water even the morning after the procedures, and in the room, even in winter, the temperature will not drop below +15 degrees for more than a day. The stove will provide heating for a steam room measuring 3.3x5 meters and with a ceiling height of 2 meters to eighty degrees in about 5-6 hours.

The heater itself will be located in the steam room, and fuel will be loaded from the rest room. Bath stones, which hold approximately 40 kg (soapstone), are loaded into a special oven, where they are evenly heated, so that the steam in the bath is dry and quite thick and hot.

The height of the oven will be approximately 1.33 meters. The oven is square, side 0.89 meters. Using these data, calculate the dimensions of the foundation and lay/fill it in advance.

During the construction of the stove (the chimney is not taken into account) the following will be used:

• 269 ​​red bricks;
• 63 refractory bricks ША-8;

  

• cast iron combustion door dimensions 0.21x0.25 m;

  

  Oven door - example

• ash door 0.14x0.25 m;
• two cleaning doors 0.14x0.14 m;
• grate 0.38x0.25 m;
• two-burner cast iron hob 0.51x0.34 m;

  

• oven for laying stones with dimensions of 0.25x0.25x0.44 m;
• one valve for “summer” mode with dimensions of 0.13x0.13 m;

  

• one chimney valve, size 0.13x0.25 m;

  

• pre-furnace sheet steel size not less than 50x70 cm.

  

• The key in brickwork is the construction joint. It should be uniform across each row, thoroughly coated. This is the only way you will achieve a monolithic stove structure and prevent smoke leakage from the fuel chamber. Carry out the process with utmost care;
• Before laying the brick, it must be well moistened. To do this, prepare a container of water and lower the bricks into the water for 5 – 10 minutes. This time is enough for the adhesion of clay and brick to be at the highest level in the future. Once the wet brick dries, it prevents cracks from occurring in the finished stove structure. We keep the bricks in water until air bubbles stop coming out. Refractory bricks are not soaked, but only moistened with water;
• Before laying each subsequent row, use a building level and a plumb line - the use of these tools in the work process is a guarantee that the structure will be free from geometric distortions and distortions.

We lay out the first row of red brick. In total you will need 24 whole bricks and one sawn in two. Lay the row very evenly, using a meter level to check the horizontality along the sides and axes of the masonry. Use a tape measure to check for squareness and alignment. Adjusting the bricks rubber mallet. We make seams no more than five millimeters.

The second row does not differ from the first either in the quantity of bricks or in its quality. You just have to carefully observe the dressing between the two rows. It is better to start laying from the corners, gradually filling the middle.

For the third row, take twenty red bricks and the ash chamber door. We lay sixteen bricks intact, cut another four with a grinder or a hacksaw for metal with a tungsten carbide blade (see the drawing for the accuracy of cutting the elements).

Before cutting, we wet the brick and securely fix it. We follow safety precautions!!!

Cutting bricks with a grinder - photo

Video - How to cut brick

Video - Cutting stove bricks with a grinder

We don’t rush to apply the solution, first lay out the entire row dry! Bricks must not be laid with the hewn (cut) side inside the firebox or chimney. It is also strictly forbidden to lubricate the internal surfaces of the channels and firebox with clay.

If the brick is laid unsuccessfully, remove it, clean it of the mortar, soak it again, and apply it with a trowel. new solution, after which we make the adjustment again.

In the same row we fix the door; to do this, we wrap the door frame around the perimeter with asbestos cord, cover it with a solution, insert and twist steel knitting wire (diameter 3-4 mm, length 1-1.2 m, number of twisting rods from 3 to 4 ) into the holes in the corners of the frame, and pass the resulting wire twists between the rows of bricks.

Fastening the door with wire - the upper ends of the wire are laid between the bricks

Installing a stove door - photo

Video - How to attach a wire to a door

Video - How to attach the oven door to the blower

The clay mortar and the weight of the bricks will securely hold the door frame.

Another way to install the door is by using metal strips or plates that are flared at the ends. The elements are attached to the door frame by riveting, after which they are fixed in the masonry joints. If the plates are too thick, it is better to cut grooves into the bricks.

The accuracy of the door installation is checked with a plumb line and level.

Advice. To make the cleaning door fit more neatly and accurately, remove a rectangular chamfer from the bricks that will be located around the perimeter of the door frame. That is, the hole for installing the door should be 5 mm longer and wider than the frame.

Don't worry if you only get three rows done in a day. Soaking, trimming, fitting and laying require time, patience and precision.

In the fourth row, we continue to form the ash chamber, additionally laying out the lower horizontal channel. The entire row will require 16 bricks. For the channel, we immediately install a door 0.14x0.14 m. The door can be fixed without asbestos, simply on the solution, since in this place the temperature will be low and the thermal expansion of the metal will be minimal.

For the fifth row we take 16 and a half red bricks. We cut four of them obliquely to make the door overlap using the “lock” method. We lay the bricks with the hewn side up. We cut two more bricks obliquely, forming an overlap.

Row 6

In the sixth row, fireclay bricks will be used in the amount of six and a half pieces and red brick - 12 pieces. It is shown in the diagram yellow. We lay out the base of the fuel chamber from fireclay. We make slots for laying the grate. The hole for the grating should be 5-7 mm larger so that the expanding metal does not destroy the masonry. We fill the space between the grate and the bricks (chamfers) with sand.

Experienced stove makers advise laying the grate with a slight slope, up to three centimeters, towards the stove door.

Use one brick to block the cleaning door.

In this row of 9 red and 5 fireclay bricks we form a fuel chamber. We cut the brick that is placed at the back of the firebox obliquely at an angle of 45 degrees.

We install the door using asbestos cord. Door size 21x25 cm.

We also place a welded oven made of 8 mm thick steel. The back of the cabinet will be located in the fuel chamber. The door of the cabinet is slightly smaller than its height, that is, it is raised, due to which the bath stones will not fall out on the floor.

We carry out the laying according to the order schemes. For work, we take seven red and fireclay bricks.

For the ninth row you will need 6.5 red and 7 fireclay bricks. We build the walls of the firebox.

In this row, using the “lock” method already discussed above, we close the fire door. The entire row will require 7 red, 8 fireclay bricks and another 1 wedged fireclay.

We take 10 and a half fireclay and 6 and a half red bricks. Close the door and back of the oven. We lay the bricks, connecting the firebox with the nearest vertical channel. Another channel is formed above the cabinet - we install a door there.

We take 12 red and 9 fireclay bricks. We make the cutting as shown in the diagram, we also make a notch for hob taking into account the required five-millimeter gaps. We lay a 51x34 cm hob; we do not use any mortar.

We install the valve in the nearest vertical channel. To install the metal element, we make slits in the brick, as shown in the diagrams. The far vertical channel, starting from this row, bifurcates.

Gate valve in the furnace - photo

For work we take 9 fireclay and 6 and a half red bricks.

We begin to form a decorative niche, for which we use 15.5 red bricks. We no longer use fireclay.

We combine the near channel and the central one. We use 13.5 bricks.

We continue laying in order. We take 14 and a half bricks.

We block the far channel and the central one. We cut two bricks above the niche obliquely to make a locking ceiling. We also cut the brick obliquely above the hob. We lay the wedge brick in the lock. Consumption per row – 18 pcs.

We close the oven completely, with the exception of the near channel. We make cutouts in this channel to install a 13x25 cm valve. Above the slab we cut another brick obliquely. Consumption – 16 pcs.

We use 17 and a half bricks to re-cover, leaving only a smoke channel measuring 13x13 cm.

We use four bricks to form the base of the chimney pipe.

With the ligation we place the second row of pipe.

Video - Description of furnace construction

The internal surfaces of the furnace must be as smooth as possible so that soot does not accumulate on them, therefore, during the laying process, the protruding clay must be cleaned or scraped off.

How to dry the oven? We leave the unit with the valves and doors open for about a week. Without closing the doors, we put just a little fuel into the firebox to warm up the walls a little. The next day we repeat the operation, increasing the amount of fuel. At the same time, we do not close the doors. When there are no wet marks left on the walls and no condensation on the valve, the stove is ready for the first real fire.

Video - Do-it-yourself stove for the bathhouse

Video - Drying the oven

After drying, the stove can be heated and the draft in it checked by opening the valves, then holding a burning match to the open door of the firebox. If the flame deviates into the oven, it means there is draft.

The draft depends on the chimney, which in turn must be at least five meters long, if you count from the grate. More accurately, the height of the chimney above the roof can be determined from the picture. But remember that damp pipes will have slightly weaker draft.

It is recommended to whitewash a brick pipe in two layers with chalk or lime so that furnace gas leaks become immediately noticeable. The faulty pipe is immediately repaired. Above the roof, the chimney pipe must be plastered, and for masonry a cement, cement-lime or simply lime mortar is used, and the best quality brick is selected, without chips, cracks, or other defects.

Don’t forget to clean the stove - in the spring if you plan to heat the sauna in the summer and twice a year if you use it constantly. If cracks appear, immediately seal them with clay mortar, applying and leveling it with a trowel.

Video - How to fold a stove with your own hands

Video - Laying the first row of bricks

Hello, in today’s article we will describe in detail the layout and sequence of laying the simplest stove known to me, measuring 890x510x770 mm. If you have never dealt with the practical side of laying stoves, but want to start somewhere, then this stove is best suited for these purposes, or choose one of . If you comply with the requirements described below, it is not realistic to make a mistake - once, the stove will have 100% good draft or two, the stove will not smoke or three. In addition, it is so small and lightweight in design that if mistakes are made (for example, a clay solution that is too greasy, or an incorrect calculation of the strength of the floor in the absence of a foundation, which can lead to mobility of the stove and further deformation), it can always be rebuilt in 2-3 hours work. In general, anyone armed with only a general gun can practice on this stove. lacking practical experience.

In general, the features of this stove include low efficiency below 75%, low heat transfer of 700 kcal/hour caused by the small volume of the stove (only 118 bricks), low weight of about 540 kg, the presence of a two-burner cast iron stove and 1 cleaning door.

So, to lay a simple kitchen stove we need:

1. solid ceramic brick brand>M100 -118 pieces;
2. clay-sand mortar - about 80 kg
3. grate size 180x250mm - 1 piece;
4. combustion door - 250x180 mm - 1 piece;
5. air door and cleaning door, size 140x130 mm each - 1 piece;
6. cast iron stove with 2 burners 720x410 mm or similar - 1 piece;
7. valve 130x130 mm - 1 piece;
8. felt, steel tape, corners as needed according to the drawing.

Sequence of laying a simple brick kitchen stove

As a base for this stove, it is allowed to lay out 1-2 layers of felt impregnated with clay solution on top of a sheet of any steel, all this is fastened with self-tapping screws. A separate foundation is not required.

1st row: simple solid masonry with solid bricks

2nd row The same as in the 1st row, when laying we observe the dressing of the seams, parallel to the diagonal and corners.

3rd row Lay out the ash pan and install a 140x130 mm door, secure it on the sides with 3/4 bricks.

4th row On the left side we lay out a 140 mm channel, from which flue gases are directed into a pipe or heating panel. We install a cleaning door opposite the channel.

5th row Masonry as well as 4th row. We close the blower door, thereby creating a 260x260 mm hole for installing the grate.

6th row We narrow the smoke channel to 260x260 mm, the blower to 200 mm - this is slightly larger than the width of the grate.

7th row We continue to narrow the smoke channel to 260x130 mm. We do everything according to the drawing; the bricks in contact with the grate must be hewn in the diagram; this is indicated by strokes; the side bricks will have to be pressed a little inside the masonry closer to the grate.

8th row We get the size of the firebox 520x260 mm. Installing the fire door

9th and 10th rows In accordance with the order, we observe the dressing of the seams.

11th row Place the cast iron pita on a weak clay solution. For greater strength, we tie the brick around the perimeter with a frame made from a corner measuring 30x30x4 mm

At the end, we remove the remaining clay solution (snot) through the cleaning door, and dry it with the doors open for 1-2 weeks, after which we approach the firebox, first partially (splints, birch bark) and then fully. We also recommend that you familiarize yourself with the drawings and other And .

If you have any questions while reading, write them in the comments and we will answer them.

Do-it-yourself stove, drawings, videos that you watch will help you get an idea of ​​how a three-channel heating kitchen brick stove is made.

Let's look at the order of the oven, which we will make with our own hands:
First

Second

We install the blower door measuring 130x140 (mm)

Third

Fourth

Instead of cast iron doors for cleaning channels, we will install two halves of brick on the edge.

Fifth

Sixth

We lay a grate measuring 370x240 (mm). To install it, we cut down a niche in the bricks so that there is a gap of one centimeter around the perimeter of the grate.

Seventh

We cut two bricks at an angle of forty-five degrees towards the grate to roll the coals into the firebox.
We install the first smoke damper, which open state, provides summer mode ovens.
We will install a combustion door measuring 250x180 (mm).

Eighth

Ninth

Tenth

We grind down the edges of the brick in the shape of an oval, for better passage of gases with the least resistance.

To clean the channels, install half a brick on the edge.

Eleventh

Let's cut grooves in the bricks to install a kitchen stove measuring 300x720 (mm).

Twelfth

Thirteenth

Fourteenth

Likewise, the twelfth.

Fifteenth

Grind down the edges of the brick into an oval shape.

Sixteenth

Seventeenth

Eighteenth

Nineteenth

We install the second smoke damper.
Twentieth, the order is the same as the eighteenth.

Twenty first

In addition, you can watch the video for a complete understanding of the masonry process

This is how you can assemble an inexpensive stove with your own hands.

Design and diagrams of stoves for the home

1.Masonry diagram heating stove two tiers
2. Laying a square stove with bottom heating
3. Schemes of stoves for the home with preferential bottom heating
4. Furnace laying designed by V.

Grum-Grzhimailo
5. Laying a furnace created by the Thermotechnical Institute

Conventionally, heating stoves can be divided into two categories: modern devices and outdated designs. Instead of using imperfect heating units for a long time, manufacturing companies produce improved ones based on latest technologies models of heating devices.

But in private households and country houses, heating brick stoves are still widely used, and the designs of stoves for the home are very diverse.

Unfortunately, from year to year there are fewer and fewer experienced stove makers who can repair or remodel them.

Currently, classic wood stoves for homes, with their characteristic advantages, are not used to heat rooms, but to give the interior uniqueness and originality.

Layout diagram of a two-tier heating stove

The design of two-tier heating stoves shown in the photo is a structure of two parts located one on top of the other.

The parameters of each of them are 165x51x238 centimeters. The heat output of the lower part of the furnace is 3200 kcal per hour, and the upper part is 2600 kcal/hour.

Furnaces for private households are provided with a brick lining with voids in order to lighten the weight of the structure and save material consumption. Both parts of two-tier ovens have exactly the same structure.

Such heating units use a ductless smoke circulation system. According to the furnace laying diagram, gases from the firebox enter the upper bell with a nozzle. After cooling, the gases fall down and, at the location of the bottom of the firebox, escape through the undercut into the mounted smoke exhaust pipe.
At the lower stove chimney passes through the upper half of the structure. For this reason, the latter of them has a smaller heating surface.

The top of the structure has a separate chimney.

The construction of a two-tier heating furnace is characterized by the simplicity of bricklaying, and the gas movement pattern is simple. The lower half of the unit is cleaned through a door located in the rear wall, and for the upper part, such a door is located in the side wall (for more details: “Heating stoves for the home - do-it-yourself masonry”).

For the functioning of the heating structure, coal or anthracite is used. The pipes for both parts are equipped with two smoke valves.

Usually top part voids in two-tier heating furnaces are covered with solid reinforced concrete slabs, which contributes to the strength and stability of the entire structural mass.

The laying of such stoves must be carried out at a high professional level, since their alteration or repair is not an easy task (read: “How to repair a brick stove with your own hands”).

The chimney for the lower part of the two-tier heating structure should be laid out carefully.
If there are leaks in the masonry, the wall separating both pipes at the top will allow heat to pass through even if the two smoke valves are closed.

If desired, you can combine them into a single array different types furnaces having a rectangular or square shape and operating on various types fuel.

Do-it-yourself stove laying diagrams

Laying a square stove with bottom heating

The stove in the photo has a combined or mixed smoke circulation system. The parameters of this design are 102x102x238 centimeters. Its heat output is 4200 kcal/hour.

The design of square-shaped heating stoves with bottom heating suggests that the firebox in it has a relatively large height.

Side openings located symmetrically on both sides (2 pieces each) serve to drain gas into the chambers. They are located in the outer side walls of the structure.

The gas then descends through chambers connected by a channel under the firebox behind the ash compartment.

From the side chambers, gases enter the risers through the lower ports and rise upward along them.

There, the side chambers all together form the so-called upper cap, which consists of three cavities U-shaped. These cavities are located parallel. The heated gases are retained in the upper part of the middle and rear of them, and the already cooled waste products pass through the holes into the front plane, which at the top is connected to the mounted smoke exhaust pipe and evaporate into the atmosphere. Read also: “Heating stoves under development.”

Consequently, the diagrams of stoves for a square-shaped house with bottom heating include 3 hoods - an upper hood and 2 big size cameras.

In such a heating design you can use any type solid fuel.
If it is planned that the stove will operate on hard coal or anthracite, the walls of the firebox should be laid exclusively from refractory bricks.

Schemes of stoves for the home with preferential bottom heating

If the heating structure has a predominant bottom heating, its size, as a rule, is 115x56x231 centimeters with a heat transfer of 2640 kcal/hour.

In accordance with the smoke circulation system, this stove is classified as a combined duct heating unit with bottom heating.

When a stove heating scheme for a private house is created using such a design, it is understood that the flue gases from the firebox will first descend and then rise along the riser to the roof (read also: “Kuznetsov’s heating stoves: do-it-yourself drawings and ordering”).

From there, along two parallel passages, they will go down to the 16th row of brickwork, and then go into the last of the risers, which turns into a chimney.

The above design is different rational decision and simplicity, since it can provide good heating of the furnace in its lower part and it has self-regulation of gas movement in both channels located in the upper part, which acts as a cap with a nozzle.
The operating principle of the design allows air to pass through the bottom of the hood without cooling down.

The laying of this stove is simple to implement and it can be built in the partition of the room in such a way that the fuel door and the front wall will open into the corridor.

The unit can be operated on coal and wood.

Furnace masonry designed by V. Grum-Grzhimailo

The ductless heating furnace layout shown in the photo was developed by Professor V.

Grum-Grzhimailo. There is no smoke circulation in this heating design. It has a round shape and is placed in a case made of sheet steel. Gases move in the furnace not due to the draft created by the chimney, but under the influence of gravity. As a result, cooled and heavier gases sink to the bottom, and light, hot gases rise to the top.

Consists of this device stoves for the home are made of two parts - the firebox is located at the bottom.

In its roof there is a small-sized haylo (mouth), which ensures the passage of flue gases into the upper part, which represents a chamber without smoke circulation.
It looks like an overturned cap, shaped like a glass.

Due to this feature, such heating structures are called ductless or bell-type.

The heated gases in them do not enter their mouths into the chimney, since they first go up under the roof, and when cooled, they descend along the walls to the base.

From here they enter the chimney and, under the influence of draft, are carried into the atmosphere. One vertical cut is located across the firebox, and the second horizontal cut is located along it.

Along the walls of the structure, from the ceiling towards the vault, there are buttresses designed to increase the internal heat absorption surface and to better absorb heat from the exhaust gases into the brick mass.

The fins heated by gases allow the stove to retain heat for a longer time.

The efficiency of the design developed by Grum-Grzhimailo reaches 80%. The iron case allows you to make masonry with a thickness of only a quarter of a brick, despite the fact that the unit heats up quite quickly. Read also: “Which brick oven is better for the home - types, advantages and disadvantages.”

Creating this oven is not difficult.

Its advantage is as follows:

- in the case when the smoke valve on the pipe is not closed tightly, the upper part of the device will not cool down from the cold air entering the firebox.

Air entering the fuel compartment through the cracks in the ash pan and fuel door rises through the mouth. But since it is heavier than the hot gases in the bell, it immediately overflows into the side channels and goes into the chimney. As a result, the entire part under the heat is not subject to cooling.

As for the disadvantages of stoves for a home of this design, the main one is the predominant heating of the upper part. To neutralize this disadvantage a little, it is necessary to make holes in the walls of the firebox in the 5th row of brickwork.

The stove operates perfectly on lean coal and anthracite. If the unit is heated with wood, especially damp wood, the cracks between the buttresses will become clogged with soot. It will be quite difficult to clean them, since the cleaning doors are located in the 8th row, which does not allow you to completely get into all the spaces of the buttresses and then the smoke will enter the main pipe.

Channelless structures, created on the principle of free movement of gases, are made in rectangular or square shapes.

They are performed either in a metal case or without it. In the second case, the walls of the cap should be made thicker to half a brick. Read also: “Brick shield for a metal furnace.”

Laying a furnace created by the Thermotechnical Institute

Schemes of home stoves, developed at the Thermotechnical Institute by engineer Kovalevsky, have dimensions of 100x85x217 centimeters.

They use a shaft-type firebox designed for the use of coal.

Through the channel, flue gases enter under the roof, from where they enter two side channels. Then they follow to the very bottom and move through the collection channel into the smoke riser. If the smoke valve is open, then the gases are vented to the atmosphere.
The peculiarity of the furnace arrangement scheme is different thickness walls of smoke circulation channels.

The first of them, coming from the firebox, is called the fire channel. It has an outer wall 3/4 brick thick. The rest of its walls are made of half a brick.

This heating structure does not fit into an iron casing. Its masonry is simple.

The efficiency of engineer Kovalevsky's furnace is 75-80%. The disadvantage of the heating unit is the possibility of overheating its upper part, since the hottest gases are directed into it. They will reach the bottom of the oven completely cooled, as a result of which the degree of heating of the lower part is insufficient.

A certain amount of gases from the firebox enters the side channels through the screws, which increases the heating of the lower part of the outer walls (read also: “ Gas stove for the home - comfortable heating").

Smoke circulation systems are freed from soot deposits by cleaning them. The grate can be pulled out and this makes it easier to maintain the combustion chamber by draining slag into an ash pan or a steel box located under the grate. The smoke in the structure is discharged into a mounted pipeline.

Today, these brick kilns are preferred by owners of country houses and country houses.

In the struggle to save fuel, and therefore money, improved designs began to appear.

Nowadays there are a considerable number of different types of new heating devices, which you can also pay attention to.

An interesting diagram of a home stove is shown in the video:

Furnace laying

We first lay out the bricks of the first row without mortar, taking into account the seam according to the order. Having determined the position of the corner bricks, we place them on the mortar, using a level to check the horizontality. With light blows of a mallet we knock down the protruding bricks. Having achieved horizontality, we fill the perimeter of the first row with bricks on mortar, controlling the masonry with a level.

Using a tape measure, we check the dimensions of the stove in plan and diagonally. The diagonals in the rectangle must be equal. If the diagonals are not equal, then we knock down the corner bricks until we achieve their equality, thereby obtaining parallelism of the sides of the perimeter. After this, we lay the middle of the first row with bricks on the mortar.

Having laid the first row, we lay the corner bricks of the second row, controlling the verticality of the corners using a level or plumb line. Similarly to the first row, we first lay out the perimeter, and then the middle of the second row according to the order.

Having laid out the second row, we hammer 80-100mm long nails into the corners in the seam between the first and second rows.

Then we lower the plumb line one by one to all corners of the second row and mark on the ceiling the points from which the plumb line was lowered.

Then we hammer the same nails into these points, tie the nylon cord to the corresponding nails and tighten it.

We check the verticality of the cords with a plumb line. If there are deviations, we eliminate them by bending the upper nails. Thus, a contour of the furnace in space is obtained. We lay the subsequent rows by controlling the verticality of the corners along the cords, which significantly reduces the time required for control.

We place the subsequent rows similarly to the first two, checking each row with the order.

As the laying proceeds, we clean the internal and external surfaces of excess squeezed out mortar with a trowel. After laying out every 4-5 rows, we wipe the walls of the chimneys with a wet rag.

The thickness of the seam of the stove masonry should be as thin as possible.

How to build a brick oven with your own hands

In thick joints, the mortar crumbles and the masonry becomes fragile. The solution should tightly fill the seam, squeezing out of it. During laying, we follow the rule of tying bricks. Each vertical seam must be overlapped by the brick of the next top row.

Typically, such a seam runs through the middle of the brick lying above. This, however, cannot always be achieved. In some places it is necessary to lay bricks so that the overlap is less than half the length of the brick. In any case, it should be at least a quarter of the length of the brick.

It is better to lay out the furnace firebox from fireclay bricks, because

it can withstand higher temperatures. Bandaging the seams of fireclay and kiln brick masonry is not advisable due to different coefficients of linear expansion.

Therefore, either a whole row is laid out of fireclay bricks, or the furnace lining is made on an edge. We leave a gap of at least 5 mm between the lining and the fireclay brick.

Installation of cleanout and blower doors

Before installing the door, we check for a tight fit of the door leaf to the frame, free rotation of the door leaf in the hinges, absence of distortions, the possibility of fixing their closure and the presence of holes for fastening in the masonry.

Detected defects are eliminated before installation or the door is replaced.

We insert a 50-60 cm long knitting wire into the door holes, fold it in half and twist it.

Apply mortar to the brickwork where the door is installed. We install the door, check the verticality and horizontality and fix it with bricks.

Then we put the ends of the wire into the masonry seams.

Grate installation

When installing stove appliances, you must remember that cast iron and brick do not expand equally when heated.

This especially affects the behavior of devices installed in high temperature zones. If they are tightly walled into the stove masonry, then when heated, the cast iron will tear the masonry. Therefore, the grate, fire door and stove should be installed with gaps. We lay the grate without mortar with a gap of at least 5 mm on all sides. It should be freely removable for replacement in case of burnout or breakage.

Installation of the furnace door

The combustion door is installed in the same way as the blower door, only it is wrapped with asbestos to fill the temperature gap.

We check the verticality and horizontality of the door and fix it with bricks and boards.

If the furnace is used intensively, the wire may burn out. To prevent this, the top of the door can be secured with a clamp. The clamp is made of strip steel with a cross-section of 25x2.0 mm. The ears should protrude 100-120 mm beyond the door frame.

The clamp is attached to the door using rivets or bolts with nuts.

The door is closed by hanging half a brick on each side

or a brick into a castle.

For an opening larger than 250 mm, the overlap is made with a wedge lintel.

Installation of the stove

First lay out the row on which the slab will be installed without mortar.

Place the slab on top and outline its location. Then we select a groove in the brick, taking into account a temperature gap of 5 mm in all directions from the slab. We lay the brick on the mortar. We fill the groove with mortar, place an asbestos cord in it around the perimeter of the slab, lower the slab into place and push it down with a mallet, making sure it is level and horizontal.

Oven installation

The oven is also wrapped with asbestos around the perimeter and half a brick wide.

The side of the oven facing the firebox is lined with bricks on edge, and the top is coated with a 25-30 mm layer of mortar to prevent burnout of the oven walls.

Laying arches and vaults

When laying stoves, it is often necessary to block various combustion openings, fireboxes and various chambers, using jumpers of simple and complex shapes. The ceiling in the wall is called an arch, and the ceiling arranged between the walls is called a vault.

The number of bricks in the arch and rows in the vault should be odd. The middle odd brick is a castle brick.

Any jumper begins with laying the heels, which are made according to the template. Since the height of the arch or vault varies, the angle of the heel also changes.

You cannot use one heel shape for all arches and vaults.

These photographs show the installation of the circle and the laying of the arched ceiling of the barbecue firebox.

And the following photographs show the laying of the vault to cover the niche for firewood.

They say that it is better to see once than to read 100 times, so especially for you I have prepared a video guide “Do-it-yourself stoves”, which shows all the nuances of laying a brick stove in video format.

I define the basic rules for laying a stove, which may not even be known to the stove journalist or the person who decided to turn on the stove:

The weight of the stove with a pipe installed without a base should not exceed 750 kg.

This is about 0.5 m of walls or 200 bricks.
If you lay down a slab base, you should check the ability of the chimney to switch between the load-bearing beams in the attic and the tiles.
The base of the stove should not be tied to the base of the house, and the stove structure should not be covered by the supporting structures of the building.

You can allow them to sit in areas of cutting and swelling. This is done in order to avoid damage to the slab in the event of unequal distribution of the house.
The wooden elements of the house and smoke must be at least a quarter of a meter.
If the kiln is not to be closed, the water for the wall mortar should be drinking water or rain water without salt, otherwise all the salt on the surface of the brick will appear as a white coating.
Mortar sand should be used from a quarry (not a river) because river sand particles have a rounded surface, which makes the mortar brittle.
The stove and fireplace are a brick column with clay mortar.

And even the smallest heels or side kicks load-bearing structures home cracks form, which can cause a fire.

What to Look For When Making Masonry Bricks

Protect yourself and make sure the oven lasts as long as possible - this is the main task of building a solid foundation, a horizontal wall and verticality of the massage itself.

Therefore, after laying the foundation, the upper platform must be carefully planned. A layer of roofing felt is applied to it, 1-2 cm of sand is poured on top and leveled, and the first colorless brick is laid. Reinstall the gasket and press the hammer into the protruding bricks. The horizontalness of each line is checked using the level specified in the rule. The squareness of the first row is checked by comparing the length of the diagonal.

As you place each row, check its flatness using a rule on the wall. After installing the two types, to ensure the verticality of the stove box, you need to pull out 1-3mm thick strings in the corners of the wall.

The ceiling attachment points are determined by the towing line. Higher up, the water line drops so that the weight drops to the top of the outer corner of the stove. On the floor on the ceiling from which the groove is lowered, the nail is tilted and a rope is attached to it. At the lower end, the second nail is tied and pulls the rope; we insert the nail under the corner brick of the first row so that the cable is strictly stretched along the corner.

Then the vertical rope is exposed to the tray, which bends the top nail in the desired direction. So repeat all four corners.
The seams should be 5 mm thick. To do this, place laying strips along the edges of the seam, spread the mortar, place the brick and place it in place with a blow of the handle. After the solution has dried, remove the spacers.
External walls should not have more than two types without stitching, otherwise cracks may occur.
The proportion of bricks can be obtained using a Bulgarian, and the wall should be kept to a minimum, since the brick is more susceptible to destruction.
The cigarette parts are located side by side in the seams.
In an area that changes the flow direction of the smoky bottom, the door is always identified as a cleaning hole, or better yet, a "brick push" that extends 5-10 mm from the wall is easier to understand than the necessary chimney cleaning.
The spacer should be planned so that the brick does not rest solely on the door frame or oven, and is closed over them or be made with a wedge lock or vault.

This is done to simplify the replacement of unsuccessful furnace equipment.
Clamps (narrow metal profiles) as well as other steel parts should be used less, since the metal takes longer to heat up than clay and can no longer be damaged by this coupling. To avoid this, place the steel strips loosely, without mortar or wrapped in a layer of asbestos.

The oven door, including the oven, is positioned so that it can be heated without touching the wall. If you want to do this, you can use asbestos with a 5mm layer where you come into contact with the vineyard.
The grate and cast iron plate are laid with a minimum pitch of 5 mm on all sides so that they can be easily removed for replacement.

Place them without mortar (you can place the plate on asbestos or asbestos layer) and fill the slots with sand.
The grates should be placed in the firebox under smoke smoke up to 70-150 mm, so as not to fall out when the coal door is opened, and placed along the firebox recesses, and the ashes will be difficult to clear the poker when preparing the stove for subsequent lighting.
Doors and corners must be fixed into the wall, which is screwed into the holes and steel wire with two-strand wires.

At the other ends, twist past the nail and pull the wire, keeping it in the nearest vertical seam.
The space between the oven and the side wall of the oven should be covered with bricks.
The length of the chimney, regardless of the chimney frame, should not exceed 7 m, otherwise the draft will be insufficient and smoke will originate in the chimney.
Chimney walls must be smooth and level.

To the solution in the chicken, the vertical channels do not reach the inside of the stove, and the foam plug is wrapped in a damp cloth and suspended inside the chimney on a wire.

Remove and clean it periodically, make a canopy out of the channel with a damp cloth.
For fire safety, the distance from the oven ceiling to the ceiling must be at least 35 cm.
For the same purpose, the floor must consist of at least three types of continuous blocks.
To protect the floor under the fireplace stove, place a metal heating sheet.
The approximate ratio of the size of the fireplace inlet to the surface of the heated area is 1:70.
The ratio of the cross-sectional area of ​​a rectangular tube at a height of 5 m to the area of ​​the entrance to the fireplace should be approximately 13%, the height of a chimney of 10 m should be about 10%.
In case of prevailing wind, a fire (or as you call it, a smoke chamber, an umbrella on a chimney, a cap on a chimney) must be installed.

Protects the oven from smoking in windy weather and protects it when it rains. Tags:

Knowledge, Domostroy

Brick heating stoves

Since ancient times, bricks have been used to build ovens. Thanks to modern technologies, it has become possible to use other building materials for these purposes.

Despite this, brick remained in the leading position among all masonry materials, and brick heating stoves are in great demand.

Many people build stoves for their home on their own, because this process quite simple.

To build a brick oven with your own hands, you need to have a little understanding of construction. It will not be possible to install such a stove special labor, since it does not require further cladding. (See also: Brick sauna stove)

For such work you need a small number of tools, namely:

• Container for preparing the solution.
• Emery tool.
• Construction pencil.
• Pliers.

Types of brick stoves

Currently there are individual species brick heating stoves, some of which are intended for heating homes, others for preparing tasty and healthy homemade food, and others perform only decorative functions.

There are also models that perform several functions at once, these include a heating and cooking stove made of brick. This type of stove is also called “Swedish”, and in some areas they are called “Dutch”.

Fireplace stoves are no less famous.

In this case, the opinions of different people are divided. Some believe that the fireplace should stand alone, while others are quite happy with it built into the stove.

The second option is the most economical in terms of space and use. Supplies. This stove heats up the room quite quickly. In addition, a do-it-yourself brick mini-oven does not require much knowledge and skills in construction.

This means that it can become a decoration for absolutely any home.

A brick oven-grill is a simple device, although it looks quite complicated. This stove can be used as an alternative to a regular barbecue.

Therefore, its construction in the yard own home will not be difficult. (See also: Brick stoves for summer cottages)

It is important to remember: the orders of brick kilns belonging to a certain type are strikingly different from each other.

Requirements for furnaces

Most sites that are devoted to this topic set themselves the task of selling a ready-made stove project. But what should people do who have decided to build a stove on their own, but they do not have enough experience and knowledge to create designs for heating stoves made of bricks?

To make your work much easier, you need to understand what requirements apply to modern brick kilns.

It is worth noting that these parameters are used by professional architects when drawing up projects for absolutely all types of brick kilns. The list of requirements includes: (See also: Building a stove with your own hands)

1. Economical.
2. Ability to retain heat for a long time.
3. Compliance with fire safety standards.
4. Good heating of the entire oven volume.
5. Easy to use.
6. Ease of maintenance.
7. Durability.
8. Beautiful design.

Preparing for the construction of a furnace: determining the location

The laying of brick heating stoves begins with determining its location, based on their purpose.

It is best to place the heating stove in the center of the house, since if at least one side of it is adjacent to the wall facing the street, its efficiency will be lost. In addition, unwanted temperature changes may occur, which negatively affect the service life of the home fireplace. And also on the efficiency of the chimney.

The combined stove should be located in the same way as the heating one.

The only condition is that the brick fireboxes face the kitchen. And the fireplace stove should be located with a fireplace in the living room.

Preparation of the solution

Next you need to make a cement mortar. To prepare it, the clay is filled with water. At the same time, it must be pre-sifted, without stones. This will make the masonry more durable. (See also: Brick stove for a summer residence)

Important: a properly prepared clay solution guarantees the durability of the stove.

The soaked clay is mixed with the same amount of sand.

After that, water is poured into the container, the volume of which is equal to ¼ of the volume of clay. The solution must be mixed thoroughly so that there is not a single lump. The mortar must have a liquid consistency so that when you press on the brick, it is squeezed out from the seam.

Dry masonry

Before you start laying bricks on the mortar, it is recommended to carry out dry laying.

ATTENTION: in no case is it allowed to take measurements by eye, as this can lead to disastrous results.

To maintain the correct direction when laying, it is necessary to check its verticality, ligation of seams, internal organization, correctness of seams and horizontal laying. (See also: How to lay a stove)

Construction of the furnace

Before you start using the brick, it is dipped in water for a few seconds. As a result, it will not absorb the moisture that the clay releases.

When laying a brick, you need to press it as hard as possible so that the mortar is squeezed out strongly.

In this way, a more durable building can be achieved. Small-sized brick heating stoves require compliance with the thickness of the mortar due to their design features. It should be no less than 3 and no more than 5 millimeters.

Excess solution is removed with a trowel, this will save it.

The oven door is secured with wire.

If this is neglected, a backlash may form, which will lead to the door falling out. For more reliable fastening, the wire is inserted into the box and twisted in half. After this, you need to make a cut in the upper edge of the brick block into which the wire will be inserted.

Important: the connectors must match the door frame.

A gap of even one millimeter should not be allowed to form.

At the end of the masonry, you need to dry the oven. To do this, you need to open all windows and doors. The oven will dry completely only after 15 days. The disappearance of all damp traces indicates that the stove is ready for use.

Detailed instructions for laying a brick stove

After determining the location, the first row is placed, on which a sheet of thick polyethylene film, roofing felt or waterproofing material is subsequently laid.

This is necessary for waterproofing. The size of the site should be 780 by 350 millimeters. After this, the sand is sifted, which is then poured in a layer of one centimeter. To avoid the formation of protrusions, the site is carefully leveled. The inspection is carried out at the building level.

In order not to make a mistake with the constructed structure, dry masonry is also checked by the building level. At this point, the most important row can be considered ready.

After this, the entire surface is filled with a thin layer of solution and a blower door is installed, which must be wrapped with asbestos cardboard and cords made of the same material.

The door is secured with annealed wire, after which you can prepare to form the next row.

The third row must be laid out of fireclay bricks, which are painted yellow.

The grate is placed on the same row. The fourth row is laid on the edge. Also at this stage it is necessary to make special supports inside the chimney. It is worth noting that the bricks of the rear wall are laid without using mortar.

Due to the fact that this space is made for wells, which are called areas for cleaning the furnace from soot, they are called ejection wells.

A little later, the combustion door is installed.

So that it can open from bottom to top, it is wrapped with asbestos cord and then secured with wire. For some time it is propped up with bricks. So that it is installed strictly vertically.

The back wall is made using two bricks, which are placed on the edge.

And from the next row the layer is laid out, starting with three fours.

Layout and laying of brick kilns

This will allow for a more durable ligation of the seams.

On the eighth row, a beveled brick is installed, which acts as a smoke tooth. The ninth row needs to be moved back a little to provide support when opening the door. Before installing the hob, an asbestos cord is installed, which is pre-soaked in water. A chimney is formed from the same row, which should expand into the fuel chamber.

This is done in order to prevent smoke from passing into the room. At the very end, a chimney is mounted, which must be connected to a metal pipe. If it moves to the side, an overlap of three rows of bricks is required.

At the end of the work, the inside of the stove is cleaned from clay and water through a knockout brick.

A piece cut from polyethylene material is placed on the hob. This is done in order to avoid the appearance of yellowness in the future. At this point, the brick oven with stove is ready. We must not forget that it can only be used after it is completely dry.

HomeSitemap

Drawings of a brick sauna stove

Drawings of a brick sauna stove of a simple and compact design, which is used to produce steam and heat water.

The figure shows the design of a brick stove, in a cross-section along two sections.

How drawings with orders help lay out brick ovens for the home

1. Laying red stove bricks.
2. Laying refractory (fireclay) bricks.
3. Fire door.
4. Blower door.
5. Grate.
6. Metal tank for hot water.
7. Metal bunker for bath stones.
8. Smoke valve.

A drawing of the furnace showing its overall dimensions.

The firebox inside the furnace is made of refractory heat-resistant brick. The gap between red and refractory bricks is 15...20 (mm). Behind the firebox, at the level of the grate, is installed metal tank for water.

A metal bunker is installed on top of the firebox, into which heaped stones are placed. The presented design with an open heater quickly heats up the steam room, and if the stones have cooled down, you can burn fuel while taking bath procedures.

Material Specification:

• red brick, 65 x 120 x 250 (mm) – 181 (pcs.)
• refractory refractory brick, 65 x 114 x 230 (mm) – 72 (pcs.)
• clay – 60 (kg)
• refractory clay – 35 (kg)
• sand – 32 (kg)
• smoke valve – 140 x 270 (mm)
• fire door – 250 x 205 (mm)
• blower door – 250 x 135 (mm)
• cast iron grate – 250 x 252 (mm)
• water tank – 250 x 555 x 760 (mm), sheet of of stainless steel thickness 3 (mm)
• stone hopper – 260 x 320 x 350 (mm), stainless steel sheet 3 (mm) thick
• square metal grid, wire diameter 2 (mm), mesh size 15…20 (mm)

Masonry of a heater stove for a bathhouse designed by E.Ya.

Kolomakina.

1st row. Solid brick masonry is laid at or above the floor level.
2nd row. They install the ash door, begin laying refractory bricks, and strictly follow the rules for tying the bricks.
3rd row. According to the order.
4th row. Lay the blower door with three bricks, the edges of which are cut at an angle, as shown in the figure.

5th row. Grooves are cut out in refractory bricks and a grate is installed in them.
6th row. Place the firebox door and install a metal tank for hot water.

Reference:
Odd rows of red brick masonry are tied with a strip of welded square metal mesh.
At the corners, the mesh strip is bent at an angle of 90°.

The width of the groove for the grate should be 5...8 (mm) larger than the outer dimensions of the grate.

7th and 8th row. According to the order.
9th row. The firebox door is covered with three bricks, the edges of which are cut at an angle.
10, 11, 12th row. According to the order.

13th row. According to the order.
14th row. Lay a metal tank for hot water and install a metal bunker for stones.

Drawing of a metal bin for stones.

15, 16 row. According to the order.
17th row. Grooves are cut out in the bricks and a valve is installed in them.
18th row. Closes the smoke damper.

Drawings of a brick sauna stove designed by E.Ya.

Kolomakin and the ordering scheme are discussed in the presented material.

Reference:
The heating time of water and stones is 150…180 (min.)

In the next article, you can familiarize yourself with the device sauna stove with heat exchanger.

This article contains clear, very detailed photo instructions for laying a brick stove with your own hands, tips on how not to make mistakes when choosing the necessary materials and how to correctly place the stove in a private house for optimal heating of a larger area.

Options for installing a stove in the house

The placement of the stove depends entirely on what exactly the owners expect from it. If it is installed in a small house and will be used as a fireplace for friendly gatherings, you can use the first scheme. This stove is a good option for cooking barbecue on the grill or kebabs.

Brick kiln placement options

The second scheme is for a house of solid square footage. In this case, the front side of the fireplace opens into the living room, stove walls both bedrooms are heated, and the heat in the remaining rooms is maintained using heat exchange.

The third scheme with a stove for heating and cooking - a budget option housing for a bachelor or a small family. Pros: a warm bed and the ability to place a dryer in the hallway.

Important: you should take care in advance external insulation at home, because it greatly increases the efficiency of stove heating.

Selection of bricks, sand, mortar

In order for the stove to serve for a long time, you need to select all the materials correctly. There are three types of bricks:

1. Ceramic - can be used to build a stove.
2. Silicate ones are generally not suitable in this case, even double M150.
3. Fireproof - ideal, but they are often used only for fireboxes and fireplaces, varieties: fireclay, refractory bricks, etc.

Advice: when choosing a brick for a stove, you need to completely abandon the hollow types.

The solution is made from clay. Red clay is suitable if the stove is made of red brick; when using fireclay, special fireclay clay is required. Some stove makers still make their own solution in the old fashioned way from river sand with a grain size of 1-1.5 mm, clay (in a ratio of 2.5:1) and water. It is advisable to use angular quarry sand without foreign inclusions and the so-called fatty clay. However, it is easier and more reliable to buy a ready-made baking mixture in the store, preparing it according to the instructions.

From the accessories you need to purchase grates, blower and combustion doors, soot cleaners, valves or dampers.

Preparation, list of tools

Before starting work, you need to determine and mark the place that the new stove will occupy.

The chimney pipe should be no closer than 15 cm from the roof rafters.

If you are doing masonry for the first time, professional stove makers advise you to practice in advance by making a model of the future stove from prepared bricks. Naturally, without a solution. This minimizes possible risks during real masonry, allowing you to learn from your mistakes, which can still be corrected in the layout.

The stove foundation requires preliminary waterproofing; its area must exceed the area of ​​the stove.

When laying a new row, you need to control the absolute verticality of the walls.

To build a brick kiln, the following tools are needed:

• plumb line;
• trowel;
• roulette;
• putty knife;
• Bulgarian;
• knitting wire;
• building level;
• metal strips, corners;
• containers for cement and clay mortar.

Step-by-step instructions with photos for laying a stove

Different stove makers have their own masonry technologies and their own secrets that come with years of experience. Here is information about a fairly simple way to create a stove-fireplace for heating two-story house, the process will not seem extremely difficult even to novice stove makers.

Foundation laying

The base course of brickwork will serve as the foundation. It is done with any brick; some stove makers even fill this level with crushed stone.

When laying the base row, cement mortar is used.

The foundation is completely filled with mortar, the layer is leveled.

Construction of the furnace body

The first row of stoves is marked. The horizontal line from which they start when marking is the wall of the room.

A grate is placed where the fireplace is planned to be placed. From this row, the bricks are already laid on the kiln mortar.

An important stage of work is the scrupulous alignment of each new row by level.

Laying the second row. The stove wall, located closest to the wall of the room, is reinforced with additional bricks to increase fire safety.

The place where it will be located in the 2nd row remains empty, the rest of the oven is filled in completely. A door is installed through which the owners will clean out the ash.

The door is installed on the solution and leveled. For a more reliable fixation, it is secured with wire, which must be laid between the bricks.

The grate is laid not on a simple brick, but on a refractory brick. To ensure that it lies at the same level as the bricks, holes are cut in the fireclay bricks.

The size of the brick can be easily adjusted - the excess is measured and carefully cut off.

The large door is mounted next to the installed grille.

The large oven door is similarly secured using wire fasteners.

The first row of fireboxes is placed exactly above the fireplace, it is reinforced with metal corners and a strip or thick tin. So that the masonry can lie on them, it is cut using a grinder, then the slots are adjusted manually to the required size.

The next brick row is laid.

For refractory bricks on a par with brick row The fireplace grate is installed.

The door is fixed, the brick is strictly adjusted to it.

The firebox of the new stove and fireplace is ready.

Fire-resistant fireclay bricks are placed above the stove firebox.

The stove body is built.

Creating a chimney

The space left for the chimney is divided into wells. The design requires reinforcement with metal plates.

Brick chimney wells are laid.

Soot cleaners are mounted above the firebox roof.

The wells are divided again, the first rows of walls should be reinforced with strips of metal.

After strengthening, the ceiling of the furnace body is erected. The space associated with the chimney remains empty.

The body cornice is laid out, then the chimneys are laid.

The final stage of work on the first floor. The stove is located at the bottom left, the smoke inside the chimneys moves in a spiral and comes out at the top left. The final separation of the wells is covered with a tin sheet. In order to compensate for the pressure inside the fireplace stove, 2 brick rows are laid on the tin.

There are two chimneys stretching to the second floor of the house - from the fireplace and the stove itself, they are separated from each other. Each chimney requires the installation of a separate damper.

Floor level of the second floor. Waterproofing is installed here, the chimney is again reinforced with metal corners. To save money and avoid building a heating stove on the second floor, the chimney of the stove under construction is again divided. The smoke will snake through it, managing to warm up the room. In order for the chimney to warm up much faster, it is laid in the area of ​​the second floor with a thickness of 1/4 or 1/2 brick.

A hole for the stove chimney is carefully cut out in the roof.

Before placing the chimney on the roof, it is reinforced with metal corners.

If the chimney is located in close proximity to the roof ridge, it must be laid out at least 0.5 meters above the ridge. If further, then the height of the chimney is allowed equal to the height of the ridge, but not lower. In this case, the wind increases the stove draft, lifting the smoke upward.

Even a small stove in the house means coziness and comfort. Stoves bigger size require increased skill and additional materials, however, the principle of their construction is similar to the method described above.

At a time when a stationary solid fuel stove was the only existing means home heating, the profession of a stove maker enjoyed great popularity and respect. Today, to arrange individual heating, you can use many different units operating on a wide variety of fuels, but brick stoves still remain in demand.

Nowadays, finding a truly competent stove maker is not an easy task. And you don’t need to do this, because you can build a full-fledged stove with your own hands.

Before you start self-masonry ovens, familiarize yourself with the features of existing varieties of such units. The stoves are:

• heating. Designed exclusively for heating. Such ovens have extremely simple design and are laid out in the shortest possible time and with the least effort compared to other types of structures;
• heating and cooking systems. The most popular and sought after option. At the same time they heat the house and allow you to cook food;

There are also improved types of heating and cooking furnaces with built-in kitchen stove or even a full-fledged oven.

Fireplace stoves belong to a separate category. This is an excellent option for a modern private home. Such designs cope perfectly with the tasks of heating rooms and have an attractive appearance. A properly laid out and finished fireplace stove will be a worthy addition to the interior of both a small country house and an expensive private villa.

The diagrams of modern stoves distinguish them not only by their purpose, but also by their shape. Most often, rectangular and square-shaped units are installed in private homes. But if you wish, you can lay out a round oven. Select a specific option taking into account the characteristics of the room and your own preferences.

Of course, you can lay out the oven yourself, and numerous diagrams will help you do this in the shortest possible time. However, when performing such work, remember that any oven, regardless of its purpose, shape and other characteristics, must fully comply current standards fire safety.

Choosing a location and type of foundation for the stove

Before starting to lay the stove, pay due attention to finding a place to place it. For example, if the unit is placed in the middle of the room, it will be able to give off much more heat, warming up from all sides and evenly heating the air around.

If you place the stove against the wall (and this option is used most often), cold air will constantly “walk” near the floor. Therefore in in this regard you need to make the decision yourself.

Preliminarily determine the installation location of the combustion door. This element must be installed so that in the future you can load fuel into the stove as conveniently and quickly as possible, without spreading debris from firewood or coal throughout the house. Usually the fire door is located on the side of the kitchen or some little-trafficked room.

The finished brick stove will have quite an impressive weight. In order for the device to stand as reliably and as long as possible, you need to prepare an individual concrete foundation for it.

Furnace design features

Traditional brick ovens have a fairly simple design. However, the apparent simplicity at first glance allows one to achieve very high levels of productivity and efficiency.

The main elements of the brick stove body are the firebox and chimney. Cooking stoves are additionally equipped with stoves and/or ovens; it is also possible to install a tank for heating water.

The firebox is the main part of the stove unit. It is into the firebox that firewood or other fuel used for heating is loaded. The firebox can have a wide variety of sizes. When determining suitable dimensions, several important factors need to be taken into account, such as:

• type of fuel used. If you will heat the stove with wood, make a firebox 50-100 cm high;
• required performance;
• required volume.

To arrange the firebox, use refractory bricks. The thickness of the walls of the structure in question cannot be less than half a brick.

The chimney is also one of the main elements of any heating stove. The chimney is designed to remove flue gases with various harmful inclusions formed during the operation of the stove.

At the chimney design stage, try to think through everything so that its design has minimum number twists and turns. Ideally, the chimney should be completely vertical. Any kind of bends will lead to deterioration of traction and a decrease in the efficiency of heating the room.

To the number important elements The design of a brick oven includes an ash pan chamber. Ash will collect in this compartment. Also, through the ash pan, air is supplied inside the unit to the fuel. The ash chamber is located under the grate and is equipped with its own door. Traditionally, the height of the ash pit is 3 bricks.

What mortar should I use for masonry?

Reliability and durability directly depend on the quality of the masonry mortar finished oven. The masonry will be carried out using a sand-clay based mortar.

There is nothing complicated in preparing the solution. Take clay, fill it with water and soak it. Sift the mixture through a sieve and then stir into “clay milk.” Finally, add some water to obtain a sufficiently viscous and plastic solution.

Remember, the reliability and strength of the stove directly depends on the correct preparation of the masonry mortar. If you do everything right, the stove will effectively heat your home for many years. Violate the technology or decide to save a lot on materials - the thermal unit is unlikely to be able to fully reveal its potential and stand for any length of time.

Main stages and important features of furnace laying

From the moment the foundation is poured to the start of construction, 3-4 weeks should pass. During this time, the base will gain the necessary strength and will be able to withstand the weight of the brick oven. The work in question requires maximum responsibility and concentration on the part of the performer. Any mistakes can lead to irreparable consequences, so get ready for the work in advance and allocate enough time to complete it.

The laying of the furnace is carried out in several stages.

First stage. Lay out the ash pit from brick and bottom part first cap. Carry out the laying using the previously discussed sand-clay mortar.

Second phase. Install the ash pan door into the masonry. Use galvanized wire to secure the door.

Third stage.

Fourth stage. Mount the firebox. Line the inside of this compartment with fire bricks. Place the bricks “on edge”. At this stage you need to use a special masonry mortar. It is prepared in the same way as the standard one, but instead of simple clay, refractory clay is used, i.e. fireclay. Secure the combustion chamber door using a steel plate and the wire you are already familiar with.

Fifth stage. Continue standard laying until you reach the 12th row. Having reached this row, close the combustion chamber and lay the tiles with burners evenly. This stove must be made of cast iron. Check the evenness of the installation using a building level.

Sixth stage. Lay out the first cap. It is erected at the left edge of the stove. At the same stage, a canal for the summer passage is being built.

Seventh stage. Install the stove and line the walls of the cooking compartment. Lay out the previously mentioned lower cap.

Eighth stage. Install the valve for the mentioned summer passage channel. This valve is located in inner corner cooking compartments.

Ninth stage. Lay the masonry up to the 20th row. When you reach this row, close the brewing compartment and the first hood. Be sure to leave the required number of holes in the solid masonry for the summer passage and lifting channel, as well as the vent for the cooking compartment. Place the bricks on steel corners - this will ensure higher strength and reliability of the stove.

Tenth stage. Close the portal of the brewing compartment with hinged fireplace doors. It is better if the doors have heat-resistant glass inserts. This solution will allow you to monitor the fuel combustion process and admire the flame.

Eleventh stage. Install cleaning doors for easy soot removal. For installation, choose a location that is easiest for you to get to.

Twelfth stage. Lay out the walls of the hood almost to the top edge of the wall opening. Cover the top of the stove with a couple of rows of bricks. Fill the gap between the top of the stove and the jumper with mineral wool. Thanks to this, additional thermal insulation will be provided and heating efficiency will be slightly increased.

Thirteenth stage. Place a decorative band around the upper perimeter of the unit.

Fourteenth stage. Proceed with the installation of the chimney. It is better if the chimney is made of brick. This design will last much longer than the same metal or asbestos pipes.

At the end, all you have to do is lay out the chimney to the end and, if desired, complete external finishing stoves. The simplest option is plastering. For the rest, be guided by your own preferences and available budget.

Thus, although laying the stove is not a simple task, it can be done with your own hands. It is enough to simply understand the technology and follow the instructions in everything. Remember, the materials for work must be of the highest quality. And the stove diagrams, proven over the years, will allow you to independently build a unit that will long years heat your home efficiently without any problems or complaints.

Good luck!

Video - Do-it-yourself stove laying diagrams