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For a long time, stoves for heating a home have been traditional heating structures and not only boilers, but also various other heaters cannot be compared with them in many respects. They provide “living” heat; in addition, they are distinguished by practicality and unpretentiousness in the use of solid fuel. In addition, a self-built stove will last for many years.
Stoves for heating a private home are considered an ideal choice for country real estate. A high-quality heating structure can provide residents with a comfortable stay in each of the premises of the building. Read also: "".
DIY stove: how to do it right
At a time when stoves were the main method of heating in houses, the construction and repair of them was carried out by craftsmen - stove makers. Now, if they have certain skills, home craftsmen have the opportunity to build a stove with their own hands. In the absence of experience construction work, it is advisable to entrust the arrangement of such a heating structure to professionals. We should not forget that the stove is a high-risk object.Before you start self-construction heating units made of brick, it is necessary to understand their main types and operating features:
- heating stoves - they are intended exclusively for heating the house. Their masonrycarried out quickly, since their design is simple (more details: " ");
- Heating and cooking stoves - today they are considered the most popular and in demand. In addition to heating rooms, you can also cook food on them, saving good money on gas and other modern coolants (read: " ");
- for cooking, a special device is built into the heating structure kitchen stove, and, if desired, even an oven;
- stoves-fireplaces - thanks to the installation of such units, you can save space in the house, thereby creating more comfortable living conditions and ensuring efficient heating of rooms (read: ""). It takes a little time to light them. Fireplace stoves have a presentable appearance that can decorate any room, both in a small country house and in a luxurious country villa (read also: " ").
In addition, regardless of the type, type and size of fuel used, the stove must meet certain requirements fire safety. The base for a brick heating structure must certainly be concrete. Read also: "".
Location of heating stoves
When setting up on your own stove heating it is necessary to provide the most optimal location for installing the heating unit. If, for example, you place the structure in the middle of the room, then its heat transfer will be the highest possible, since it will heat the space from all sides, while evenly releasing heat to the air.In the case when the stove is placed near the wall, convection currents of cool air emanating from doors and windows will begin to actively move around the house. As a result, with this arrangement of the heating structure, residents will constantly feel the cold “stretching” up their legs.
Before laying begins furnace device It is required, according to the installation rules, to provide for the location of the combustion chamber door (read: ""). This is necessary so that you don’t have to carry armfuls of firewood across the room, spreading dirt and soot. You can avoid such problems if you install the stove in the kitchen or in a space that is rarely visited.
Types of base for heating structures
The drawings of heating stoves provide for the arrangement concrete floor or having your own foundation. In the latter case, the base is made in such a way that it is designed to accommodate the installation of the structure body and the walls of the chimney pipe, as shown.Main components:
- Firebox. When you create a stove in your home with your own hands, this element is one of the main parts of the heating unit. It should accommodate the maximum volume of firewood or other fuel to ensure the greatest performance of the structure. The size of the firebox can be different, since this parameter depends on the type of solid fuel (for example, for firewood, the height of the chamber ranges from 40 to 100 centimeters), volume, and productivity. The firebox is laid out exclusively from refractory bricks, and the thickness of its walls should be at least half a brick.
- Ash pan. This chamber is equipped with a door and is located directly under the grate. It is designed to collect ash and supply air to the fuel. The height of the ash pit is equal to three bricks.
- Chimney. One of the main elements that are found in every modern brick oven. Outwardly, it is similar to a coil through which flue gases move, heating the air in the room. When creating a stove for heating a house, such as in the photo, when designing a chimney for a modern heating structure, experts do not recommend including a large number of turns and bends, since they create additional resistance to the movement of flue gases, resulting in a decrease in the efficiency of heating the room.
Preparation of the solution
The stove can serve trouble-free for a long time if the mortar for masonry is properly prepared. It is made from sand, clay and water. It must be at the same time viscous, strong and durable. Preparing a clay-sand solution is simple: it requires clay, which is filled with water and soaked for at least a day. Then the mixture is passed through a sieve and stirred to the consistency of “clay milk” and only then added required amount sand (read also: " ").The stove with your own hands will be durable and reliable design, will last for decades if the solution is made correctly. In the event that the building materials are of poor quality, and the bricklaying was carried out without following technology, the heating unit will quickly fail and may even collapse.
Features of the furnace laying process
Before making a stove with your own hands, you should make a foundation for it in advance. Typically, bricklaying begins a month after the foundation is created. It is necessary to withstand a certain time for the stove to be efficient and of high quality, and for the heating structure to last a long time, without overhaul and rework while maintaining functionality and high performance.
- First of all, lay out the ash chamber and the bottom of the first cap with a cover. Typically, a clay-sand mixture with high viscosity and strength is used for masonry.
- The doors are mounted in brickwork, and they are fastened using galvanized wire.
- A grate is installed above the ash pit. Then they begin to install the firebox, which is lined from the inside with fireclay bricks, placing it on the edge. When making the solution, sand and fireclay clay are used. The fire door is secured with wire and a steel plate having a thickness of 2.5 millimeters. Read also: "".
- On the 12th row brickwork You should close the combustion chamber and then, using a level, mount a cast iron stove with burners. On the left side of the structure, the first cap and channel intended for summer movement are laid.
- After the installation of the slabs is completed, the walls of the cooking chamber are laid out. On the left side, the construction of the lower cap continues.
- In the cooking chamber, in the inner row, a summer valve is installed, which is necessary for lighting the stoves.
- In the 20th row, the first of the hoods and the cooking chamber are blocked. It is necessary to leave holes in the solid brickwork for the vent of the cooking compartment, the summer passage and the lifting channel. To do this, the bricks are supported on steel corners in order to strengthen the heating structure and thereby increase its reliability.
- The portal at the cooking chamber should be closed with hinged fireplace doors. Good decision The doors will be equipped with inserts made of heat-resistant glass. If they are available, it becomes possible to control the combustion process and at the same time observe how the flames look. Read also: "".
- After covering the cooking chamber and the lower hood using two brick rows, they begin to lay out the upper hood. Cleaning doors are installed in convenient places for use to help remove soot.
- The walls of the hood are erected almost to the top point of the wall opening. At the top the oven is covered with two brick rows. For additional thermal insulation, the hole between the top of the unit and the overhanging lintel must be filled with mineral wool.
- If you are making a stove yourself, place a decorative band along its upper perimeter and begin installing a pipe that removes flue gases. The ideal solution counts brick chimney, because over time, metal and asbestos pipes often burn out. Read also: "".
This article contains clear, very detailed photo instructions for laying a brick stove with your own hands, tips on how not to make mistakes when choosing the necessary materials and how to correctly place the stove in a private house for optimal heating of a larger area.
Options for installing a stove in the house
The placement of the stove depends entirely on what exactly the owners expect from it. If it is installed in the house small area and will be used as a fireplace for friendly gatherings, you can use the first scheme. This stove is a good option for cooking barbecue on the grill or kebabs.
Brick kiln placement options
The second scheme is for a house of solid square footage. In this case, the front side of the fireplace stove opens into the living room, the stove walls heat both bedrooms, and the heat in the remaining rooms is maintained using heat exchange.
The third scheme with a stove for heating and cooking - a budget option housing for a bachelor or a small family. Pros: a warm bed and the ability to place a dryer in the hallway.
Important: you should take care in advance external insulation at home, because it greatly increases the efficiency of stove heating.
Selection of bricks, sand, mortar
In order for the stove to serve for a long time, you need to select all the materials correctly. There are three types of bricks:
- Ceramic - can be used to build a stove.
- Silicate ones are generally not suitable in this case, even double M150.
- Fireproof - ideal, but they are often used only for fireboxes and fireplaces, varieties: fireclay, refractory bricks, etc.
Advice: when choosing a brick for a stove, you need to completely abandon the hollow types.
The solution is made from clay. Red clay is suitable if the stove is made of red brick; when using fireclay, special fireclay clay is required. Some stove makers still make their own solution in the old fashioned way from river sand with a grain size of 1-1.5 mm, clay (in a ratio of 2.5:1) and water. It is advisable to use angular quarry sand without foreign inclusions and the so-called fatty clay. However, it is easier and more reliable to buy a ready-made baking mixture in the store, preparing it according to the instructions.
From the accessories you need to purchase grates, blower and combustion doors, soot cleaners, valves or dampers.
Preparation, list of tools
Before starting work, you need to determine and mark the place that the new stove will occupy.
The chimney pipe should be no closer than 15 cm from the roof rafters.
If you are doing masonry for the first time, professional stove makers advise you to practice in advance by making a model of the future stove from prepared bricks. Naturally, without a solution. This minimizes possible risks during real masonry, allowing you to learn from your mistakes, which can still be corrected in the layout.
The stove foundation requires preliminary waterproofing; its area must exceed the area of the stove.
When laying a new row, you need to control the absolute verticality of the walls.
To build a brick kiln, the following tools are needed:
- plumb line;
- trowel;
- roulette;
- putty knife;
- Bulgarian;
- knitting wire;
- building level;
- metal strips, corners;
- containers for cement and clay mortar.
Step-by-step instructions with photos for laying a stove
Different stove makers have their own masonry technologies and their own secrets that come with years of experience. Here is information about enough in a simple way creating a stove-fireplace for heating two-story house, the process will not seem extremely difficult even to novice stove makers.
Foundation laying
The base course of brickwork will serve as the foundation. It is done with any brick, some stove makers even fill it with this level crushed stone
When laying the base row, cement mortar is used.
The foundation is completely filled with mortar, the layer is leveled.
Construction of the furnace body
The first row of stoves is marked. The horizontal line from which they start when marking is the wall of the room.
A grate is placed where the fireplace is planned to be placed. From this row, the bricks are already laid on the kiln mortar.
An important stage of work is the scrupulous alignment of each new row by level.
Laying the second row. The stove wall, located closest to the wall of the room, is reinforced with additional bricks to increase fire safety.
The place where it will be located in the 2nd row remains empty, the rest of the oven is filled in completely. A door is installed through which the owners will clean out the ash.
The door is installed on the solution and leveled. For a more reliable fixation, it is secured with wire, which must be laid between the bricks.
The grate is laid not on a simple brick, but on a refractory brick. To ensure that it lies at the same level as the bricks, holes are cut in the fireclay bricks.
The size of the brick can be easily adjusted - the excess is measured and carefully cut off.
The large door is mounted next to the installed grille.
The large oven door is similarly secured using wire fasteners.
The first row of fireboxes is placed exactly above the fireplace, it is reinforced with metal corners and a strip or thick tin. So that the masonry can lie on them, it is cut using a grinder, then the slots are adjusted manually to the required size.
The next brick row is laid.
A fireplace grate is laid on the fire-resistant brick along with the brick row.
The door is fixed, the brick is strictly adjusted to it.
The firebox of the new stove and fireplace is ready.
Fire-resistant fireclay bricks are placed above the stove firebox.
The stove body is built.
Creating a chimney
The space left for the chimney is divided into wells. The design requires reinforcement with metal plates.
Brick chimney wells are laid.
Soot cleaners are mounted above the firebox roof.
The wells are divided again, the first rows of walls should be reinforced with strips of metal.
After strengthening, the ceiling of the furnace body is erected. The space associated with the chimney remains empty.
The body cornice is laid out, then the chimneys are laid.
The final stage of work on the first floor. The stove is located at the bottom left, the smoke inside the chimneys moves in a spiral and comes out at the top left. The final separation of the wells is covered with a tin sheet. In order to compensate for the pressure inside the fireplace stove, 2 brick rows are laid on the tin.
There are two chimneys stretching to the second floor of the house - from the fireplace and the stove itself, they are separated from each other. Each chimney requires the installation of a separate damper.
Floor level of the second floor. Waterproofing is installed here, the chimney is again reinforced with metal corners. To save money and avoid building a heating stove on the second floor, the chimney of the stove under construction is again divided. The smoke will snake through it, managing to warm up the room. In order for the chimney to warm up much faster, it is laid in the area of the second floor with a thickness of 1/4 or 1/2 brick.
A hole for the stove chimney is carefully cut out in the roof.
Before placing the chimney on the roof, it is reinforced with metal corners.
If the chimney is located in close proximity to the roof ridge, it must be laid out at least 0.5 meters above the ridge. If further, then the height of the chimney is allowed equal to the height of the ridge, but not lower. In this case, the wind increases the stove draft, lifting the smoke upward.
Even a small stove in the house means coziness and comfort. Stoves bigger size require increased skill and additional materials, however, the principle of their construction is similar to the method described above.
For stove heating of small country cottages or country houses, in order to save materials and money, it makes sense to select projects heating stoves made of bricks of small dimensions and simple in execution. Then, having purchased building materials in accordance with the project, you can get down to business yourself, having first studied how to lay stoves with your own hands.
Heating and cooking stove
What type of stove should I choose?
At the very beginning, you need to decide what kind of stove design will be in your home. To do this you need to study existing species stoves for the home and choose for yourself suitable option from the proposed list:
- Dutch channel-type stoves and the like take up the least space, are the simplest to construct and are undemanding in terms of materials. They work more in slow burning or smoldering mode, the efficiency is low - 40%.
- A chamber-channel Swedish brick stove for home use is more efficient than a Dutch stove, its efficiency is up to 60%, it also takes up little space, but is somewhat more difficult to implement. In addition, building materials should be selected very carefully.
- Russian stoves are the most efficient, their efficiency reaches 75%, but the laying of the stove is extremely complex; it will not be possible to do without an experienced specialist.
- A heating and cooking stove with a built-in water heat exchanger is the simplest heater option. Its construction will require the least amount of materials, and the simplicity of the design allows even a beginner to do all the work with his own hands; all he needs is a serious and scrupulous approach.
Advice. If you have absolutely no experience in masonry work, then for self-built It is better to choose a “Dutch” or a hob; the construction of “Swedish” stoves is somewhat more complicated and requires experience in this matter. As for the Russian stove, it is not recommended to take on it yourself.
Next, you should understand where and how much space you are willing to allocate for construction, as well as the number of rooms heated by the stove. If the house is small, then the heat source can be placed in the wall between the rooms, so that each is heated from the back or side wall of the brick stove. The figure shows examples of the placement of various heaters inside a building.
The first diagram on the left shows the placement of a stove for a brick house with a stove bench in the bedroom and heating of other adjacent rooms: living room, hallway and bathroom. The second diagram shows where you can install a heating and cooking stove with heated water for domestic hot water. Between the two bedrooms it is planned to build a “Dutch” type heater with a loading chamber outlet into the living room. The third diagram shows an example of a country house, where the same stove heats the kitchen and bathroom, and there is a fireplace in the living room.
The principle by which the furnace is placed and built is simple: direct heating from its walls should cover as many rooms as possible, and when this does not work, it is better to use furnace designs with a built-in water heating coil. In this case, the remaining rooms will be heated by heating radiators.
Masonry brick
In order for a home-made brick oven to work efficiently and long-lastingly, it is necessary to select the appropriate materials for its construction. Construction Materials, in particular, brick. Not only the strength and durability of the structure, but also its thermophysical properties, which ensure comfort in your home, depend on this choice.
It is especially important to choose the right quality materials, if you are planning to fold a Swedish stove. For the “Dutch”, the requirements for the quality of bricks and masonry mortar not so high.
Previously, brick ovens were made entirely of red clay bricks, but now there are 2 types of them:
- red ceramic grade 150;
- fireproof fireclay.
In past times, the sizes of oven bricks and ordinary building bricks were different. If the dimensions of a single building stone are 250 x 125 x 65 mm, then the stove stone had dimensions of 230 x 114 x 40 mm or 230 x 114 x 65 mm. Nowadays, dimensions have been unified for convenience, so selection comes down to assessing the quality of the material. Here are some recommendations for purchasing the material from which brick heating stoves are laid:
- Stones should be purchased in the same size.
- You cannot use hollow bricks, much less silicate bricks. All you need is a solid ceramic stone.
- For facing masonry, it is better to take stones with a decorative texture if you do not plan to decorate the walls with additional tiles or other facing material.
- In the combustion chamber, the brickwork must be fireproof, made of fireclay stone.
Instructions for performing work
Once a heating furnace design has been selected, a foundation is required for it. The exception is small “Dutch stoves” and heating and cooking stoves, which do not place a large load on the floors. The latter can be erected directly from the cement floor screed, having completed all the heat and waterproofing measures discussed below.
In other cases, the heating furnace should rest on a foundation, preferably a monolithic reinforced concrete one. Its dimensions make it 50 mm larger than the dimensions of the structure itself, the thickness of the slab is 100-150 mm, depending on the load. The foundation is made free-standing, not in contact with the base of the building.
Before making a brick oven, the foundation slab must stand for at least 2 weeks, after which waterproofing (roofing felt in 2-3 layers) is laid on top, followed by sheets of asbestos or basalt cardboard for thermal insulation. Then a sheet of roofing steel and a felt bedding are laid down, from which the laying of the stove begins. The litter must first be wetted, and after laying, allow it to dry to the metal. Now you can proceed directly to the construction of the walls.
First of all, you need to figure out where to start laying. There are special diagrams for this; each row of stones is reflected in detail on them, starting from the base and ending with the chimney. When you have chosen a certain type of heat source and found or purchased project documentation for its construction, it necessarily depicts the row laying of stoves of this type. Below, as an example, is the order of a small “Dutch” measuring 520 x 520 mm.
Next, you need to prepare a solution for laying stoves from white or yellowish clay with the addition of quartz sand in a ratio of 1: 1. It is not recommended to use water with a high content of calcium and magnesium salts (hard water). Before cooking, the clay is soaked in water and left for a day, after which it is passed through a sieve with a mesh of 3 x 3 mm. This process is carried out by rubbing, since the mixture of clay and water cannot otherwise be passed through a sieve. Then sand is added and kneading is done with gradual addition of water. The final solution should have a consistency similar to thick sour cream.
The sides of the masonry stone have their own names, and they determine the type of masonry. The traditional masonry of brick stoves is spoon and butt. This means that from the front side of the wall we can see the sides of the stone with the corresponding names. Bed masonry is extremely rare, and is not allowed at all for the construction of stoves. The wall is built with bandaging, that is, the vertical seams between the stones should not coincide.
The process begins from the first row and further, constantly checking the diagram, which shows the row of masonry. There is no need to rush this work; the emphasis should be on quality. For a beginner, it is better to first lay each row dry, without mortar, based on the drawings. After making sure that the installation is correct, apply mortar to the bricks and lay them down completely.
Remove excess clay, achieving a joint thickness of no more than 3 mm and no less than 2 mm. In some places you can thicken the seam up to 5 mm. The stone must be placed immediately in place; moving or knocking is not allowed. Excess clay mixture removed from stones cannot be used again.
Additional instructions for masonry that must be followed are, for convenience, given in the form of a short list:
- Each stone is placed resting it on 2 others.
- The first and last rows are made with stitching.
- To avoid delamination, vertical joints are filled with mortar.
- The bricks of each subsequent row must overlap the stones of the previous one by at least ¼ of the length.
- Coincidence of tie and spoon rows is not allowed.
- The cut sides of the stones are placed inside, not outside, the wall.
Laying out a brick oven yourself will require a lot of personal time and patience. There are no irresponsible units or parts here; every brick matters. If you approach the issue carefully and responsibly, the result will be healthy warmth and comfort in your home.
The question of how to build a brick stove for a house with your own hands continues to be relevant today, since comfort and warmth have always remained for humans important conditions for complete relaxation after a busy day at work. Therefore, recently more and more city residents are moving from panel high-rise buildings to private homes, where it is possible to create a comfortable environment at any time of the year.
Due to the demand for various models of furnaces, engineers continue to develop new options suitable for buildings with different areas. It should be noted that even when all the “blessings of civilization” are present in the house, a small cozy stove will never be superfluous and will help out in various situations. For example, it can be heated on cold spring or autumn evenings, when it is humid or raining outside, without starting the heating system. Such a structure will help create an optimal balance of temperature and humidity in the house, which will be comfortable for a person. In addition, the oven will be an excellent assistant in cooking or drying vegetables, herbs and fruits.
Since there are a large number of different models of heating structures, you should choose stoves with the most accessible, easy-to-read diagrams for DIY installation, especially if you have little or even no experience in this craft. Naturally, it is necessary to take into account other factors that directly affect the efficiency of the stove - its power, dimensional parameters, functionality, and aesthetics are also important. appearance. And in order to choose the right stove model, you need to consider the criteria that you need to focus on when determining the desired option.
How to choose the best oven option?
Choosing a furnace installation location
In order for the furnace to be fireproof, efficient, and its power to be used to the maximum extent possible, this structure must be installed correctly, taking into account some nuances.
- Firstly, it is decided how much area can be allocated for installing the stove.
- Then, you need to decide specific place:
— the stove is installed in the center of the room, dividing it into separate zones;
— built into the walls, between two or three rooms;
- erected near the wall, with a distance of 250÷300 mm from it, if you need to heat only one room. However, you need to take into account that this option is the most losing, since most of the heat generated back walls, will not be fully used.
- Having chosen an approximate location, you need to immediately mark it, starting from the ceiling, using a plumb line, since the pipe must pass through attic floor between beams and rafters, and at a distance from them of at least 120÷150 mm.
- When allocating an area for the furnace, it is taken into account that for its foundation it is necessary to provide more space than its base, by 100–150 mm on each of its sides.
- To avoid any problems with regulatory organizations, when choosing an installation location, you need to take into account not only the recommendations presented above, but also the standards developed by specialists and specified in SNiP 41-01-2003.
Calculation of the required power and assessment of firewood consumption
A furnace will not be efficient and will not be able to heat your home if it is not powerful enough for a particular area. This also takes into account the winter temperatures of the region where the heated building is located, the number of windows and doors in it, the level of insulation of walls and floors, ceiling height and many other conditions.
For example, the higher the ceiling, the greater the volume of air will have to be heated, and the more larger area glazing, the faster the heat will leave the house, which means you will have to choose a stove with increased power. Typically, for buildings with non-standard glazing and other parameters that do not fall under the average statistical level, calculations must be made by a specialist individually, based on the specific characteristics of the house.
But in general, you can rely on average values. Thus, for well-insulated houses with conventional glazing, with an area of 50 to 100 m², with a ceiling height of 2.5 to 2.7 m, the following thermal power standards per unit area (Wsp) are acceptable:
This value can be found out more accurately in your local construction organization. And for those who like to do their own calculations, we can recommend a more detailed and fairly accurate algorithm.
How to accurately calculate the required thermal power?
Each room is unique in its own way, and heating two seemingly equal rooms may require different amounts of thermal energy. The methodology for calculating the power of heating equipment is set out in a special publication on our portal dedicated to.
Having data for a specific region and the size of the heated area (S), the furnace power for it is calculated using the formula:
Wsum = S (m²) × Wsp (kW/m²)
For example, we can consider the power of the furnace for brick house, located in the central part of Russia and having an area 75 m².
Wsum = 75 × 0.14 = 10.5 kW
Typically, furnace developers immediately indicate thermal power their designs. True, other units of measurement are often found - kilocalories per hour or megajoules. It’s not scary - they can be easily converted into watts and kilowatts:
In our case, for example, the calculated power in kilocalories will be equal to:
10500 × 0.86 = 9030 kcal/hour
Now you can calculate the efficiency of the future stove, which largely depends on the quality and type of wood used as fuel. At the same time, we must not forget that usually brick wood stoves do not have high efficiency. It is usually estimated at around 70%. If there is data for a specific oven model, then a specific value is substituted.
Each type of solid fuel has its own calorific value– the amount of thermal energy that is released when burning 1 kilogram. It is clear that only bulk fuels - coal or - are usually measured in kilograms and tons, and firewood is usually measured in storage cubic meters. This indicator thus depends on the specific density of a particular type of wood. Indicators of energy potential (based on mass and storage volume) of the main types solid fuel are shown in the table.
| Wood type | Average calorific value of dry firewood by mass, Qm (kW/kg) | Average calorific value of dry firewood by storage volume, Qv (kW/m³) (for coal and briquettes - kW/t) | The same applies to damp wood (which has not undergone at least a one-year drying cycle) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Firewood: | |||
| Beech | 4.2 | 2200 | 1930 |
| Oak | 4.2 | 2100 | 1850 |
| Ash | 4.2 | 2100 | 1850 |
| Rowan | 4.2 | 2100 | 1850 |
| Birch | 4.3 | 1900 | 1670 |
| Elm | 4.1 | 1900 | 1670 |
| Maple | 4.1 | 1900 | 1670 |
| Aspen | 4.1 | 1750 | 1400 |
| Alder | 4.1 | 1500 | 1300 |
| Willow (willow) | 4.1 | 1400 | 1230 |
| Poplar | 4.1 | 1400 | 1230 |
| Pine | 4.4 | 1700 | 1500 |
| Larch | 4.4 | 1700 | 1500 |
| Fir | 4.4 | 1600 | 1400 |
| Spruce | 4.3 | 1400 | 1200 |
| Coal and briquettes: | |||
| Anthracite | 8.1 | 8100 | - |
| Charcoal | 8.6 | 8600 | - |
| Coal | 6.2 | 6200 | - |
| Brown coal | 4.2 | 4200 | - |
| Fuel briquettes | 5.6 | 5600 | - |
| Peat briquettes | 3.4 | 3400 | - |
The calorific value of undried firewood is shown for contrast - how much generated power is lost. Naturally, you should still rely on firewood that has gone through the necessary drying cycle.
Preparing firewood is a serious matter!
In order for the stove to live up to its purpose and serve as long as possible, it should be “fed” with the right fuel. About their main characteristics, rules of preparation, drying and storage - in a special publication on our portal.
The average daily weight consumption of fuel to ensure the necessary heat transfer is determined by the formula:
V(kg)= (Wsum /Qm) × 24 hours
To calculate volume - everything is the same, but instead of calorific value by mass Qm value is substituted Qv.
Knowing the daily consumption, it is easy to determine the weekly, monthly and even for the entire expected heating period - in order to have an idea of the upcoming costs of purchasing or procuring the required amount of firewood.
To facilitate independent calculations, below is a convenient calculator, which already contains the necessary ratios. The calculation is carried out for dried wood.
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Brick heating stoves are still very popular. If desired, you can make them yourself. In order to facilitate the work, drawings of brick stoves have been created. Following the instructions and recommendations on, you can build structures such as in the photo.
Any oven consists of the following parts:
- base (not connected to the foundation of the building);
- the ash pan ensures the flow of air into the combustion chamber and accumulates ash, which can later be removed through a special door;
- the firebox, separated from the ash pan by a grate (grate or rods), has a door for loading fuel, firewood is burned in it;
- the chimney is a pipe through which combustion products are discharged;
- smoke circulations (their labyrinthine circuits are needed to absorb heat from hot smoke).
Brick kilns have such characteristics as thrust, power, efficiency, type of fuel used. The draft depends not only on the height of the chimney, but also on the cross-section and quality of the masonry. Ready-made schemes heating stoves made of bricks save craftsmen from carrying out complex calculations (more details: "").
Russian stove: drawings of brick stoves
Previously, such designs were found in every home, but nowadays they are already a rarity. Despite this, a Russian stove can successfully fit into the interior of the room. They are also not only a heating device - they also have a hob.To lay the stove you will need the following materials:
- solid red brick – 1610 pieces;
- view for a valve measuring 0.3x0.3 meters - 2 pieces;
- dry clay solution in dissolved form;
- samovar 14x14 centimeters - 1 piece;
- flap 43x34 centimeters - 1 piece. Read also: "".
The pipe of a Russian stove is traditionally laid out of brick, however modern technologies make it possible to install a round structure with good tightness with safe and convenient passage through floors and roofs (read also: " ").
To work you will need the following tools:
- trowel – for laying and leveling the mortar;
- pick - a multifunctional hammer with a blade located perpendicular to the axis of the handle. At its other end there is a square windshield;
- bubble level for masonry and hydraulic for the first row;
- rule - serves to align the bricks of each row;
- plumb lines - one of them must be permanently attached to the axis of the chimney (floor), and with the help of the second the verticality of the corners is checked;
- brush – needed for grouting joints;
- cord - it is pulled over each row of masonry.
- Cooking chamber. For masonry it is used 3/4 ground corner brick with locks.
- Under. There is a slope from the back, for the purpose of which the space is filled with sand, on which the brick is laid.
- Covering the bottom. The structure is covered with bricks along rods, corners or sheet blanks.
- Vault with a castle. In some cases it is used central locking, in others - the last two symmetrical bricks.
- Rows to the lower arch. The bricklaying of the stove is carried out in the usual way, then a vault template assembled from chipboard or springs cut from wood are installed on top of it.
- Wells. They are tied rows in which a hole is left leading to the underside.
- Sub-bake. Bricks are laid on a foundation mortar; hollow stones are not allowed.
- VK code. For convenience, the bricks are cut into a wedge-shaped shape.
- Covering the channel above the samovar. It is solid, only solid stones are used.
- The holes above the pole become smaller. The brick is cut in accordance with the drawing.
- Alignment of walls. At the same time, the over-pipe is reduced and the samovar channel is laid.
- Installation of a samovar. The structure is closed with a separate lid.
- Installing a view. To embed the structure, two rows are laid.
- Chimney. The height of the pipe from the bottom to the top must be at least 5 meters. The upper rows form a canopy that prevents precipitation from entering the chimney.
Buslaevskaya stove: projects
The design has a built-in hood. The oven is different small in size. It is ideal for any private home, as it allows you not only to heat the premises, but also to cook food. Despite its compact size, the stove heats well spacious premises That's why I exist ready-made.Special schemes for laying brick stoves will help you complete the work without carrying out complex calculations.
For installation you will need the following materials:
- doors - firebox (0.2x0.25 meters), VK (0.39x0.5 meters), blower (0.14x0.14 meters);
- refractory - 43 pieces;
- solid brick– 382 pieces;
- oven-cabinet 28x33x50 centimeters;
- cast iron stove 0.7x0.4 meters with burners (removable rings different diameters);
- valves - steam exhaust (12x13 centimeters) and smoke (12x25 centimeters);
- grate - grate 30x20 centimeters;
- corner - three equal-flange blanks 1 meter long and 45x45 millimeters in size;
- steel - piece 0.3x0.28 meters;
- strip - 4 pieces of meter (4 graph paper), 0.25 meters (2 graph paper), 0.35 meters (3 graph paper);
- cast iron plate – 0.4 x 0.25 meters; 40x15 centimeters.
- Full row.
- Blower door.
- Window opening for cleaning.
- The bottom of the oven is lined with refractory, three sides are lined with iron.
- Installation of the combustion door, grate, refractory under the firebox, cleaning cover, ash door.
- Installation of DS.
- Laying refractory on the edge around the door.
- Laying according to the scheme.
- The oven is top coated with clay (1 centimeter), the heater is covered, and a stove with burners is attached.
- Installation of smoke circulation with cleaning windows, the stove is not laid.Subsequently, the brick is placed on its edge.
- The cleaning is overlapped, channels are created, and 25-centimeter strips are laid.
- The cleaning is completed and the fastening wire is installed.
- The cap is installed.
- Installation of the VK ceiling, while the hoods remain.
- The stoves are laid out according to the diagram.
- The small stove ends in sheet iron, the masonry is done according to.
- The cleaning hole of a large stove is laid out, the edges of the side walls of the channels are cramped.
- Laying protrusions.
- The projections are duplicated and the corner is installed.
- The BP chimney is closed in the same way as row 19.
- A three-row neck is made, the size of the chimney is reduced to a section of 26x13 centimeters for the top valve.
- A chimney is created with grooves on this and subsequent rows.
Ordering a sauna stove: diagrams
Designs of brick heating stoves show the location of fireclay and clay bricks in each row. Explanations for the order:1, 2 row. A blower is created (a window for air supply), and a dressing is used.
3. A window is left for the main chimney.
4. The damper and ash pan door are installed.
5. The grate and firebox are mounted, and the refractory is subsequently laid on them.
6. The shape of the chimney and firebox is repeated, and doors are installed.
Rows 7-11. The firebox ends on the 11th row.
Rows 12-14. The heater box is installed.
15-16. The shaft expands and becomes half similar to the 6th row.
18. The cleaning door is installed.
22.23. The shafts are combined, and the edges of the bricks are ground down. Then the shaft above the heater is completely blocked, leaving only the chimney.
Frame structures can facilitate the installation process. In this case, brick is present only in the outer walls, and all internal elements are welded from metal. This can speed up the process of laying the stove. Read also: "".
Stoves often serve as interior decoration, so they are lined with clinker, tiles, and tiles. The diagonals in the first row are carefully measured, and a plumb line is hung in the center of the chimney, which is removed on the last rows of the pipe. Also, the diagonals are controlled every 4 rows, and on each row a cord is pulled during installation, which is checked by the rule.
Instead of cement-sand mortar It is recommended to use clay, regardless of the type of stove being built. Ready-made dry solutions significantly save time spent on clay preparation. To prevent the composition from drying out quickly, the brick must be moistened with water before laying.
Operating costs will be lower if there are no rectangular ledges inside the structure. For this purpose, when creating an overlap (ledge), the stone is tried on without mortar, the overlap line is outlined, and the excess material is cut off with a grinder. Internal seams during laying are regularly checked, and excess mortar is removed from time to time. The pipe is cleaned after completion of the work.
Brick kilns are made of several materials:
- external cladding;
- masonry bricks (main structure);
- fireclay – fireproof material is used to lay out areas exposed to strong heat (furnace, under);
- bricks with high-density edges are located inside the oven.
The stove seam should be no more than 5 millimeters for clay bricks, and 3 millimeters for refractory bricks. It is prohibited to adjust bricks that have already been laid: the element is removed, the mortar is cleaned off, and then a new stone is laid. The foundation of a house or bathhouse must be removed from the base of the stove by at least 5 centimeters, taking into account that to reduce heaving between them, the soil is replaced with sand. During construction sauna stove with the firebox exiting into the dressing room, you cannot embed masonry in frame partition, log house The front wall of the structure is enlarged and joined to wooden elements and seal the cracks with non-combustible material (usually used basalt wool). Read also: "".
Rafter system, ceilings and itself wooden house are fire hazard. Therefore, when passing the furnace through these elements, it is necessary to follow the SNiP standards.
The following types of cuts are created in the ceilings:
- thickening with bricks (material consumption is high, the design does not look very beautiful);
- wooden box with backfill from non-combustible materials(expanded clay, sand, basalt wool);
- a sandwich of two pipes with internal thermal insulation material.
Drawings of brick stoves on video from a clear example construction: