Key points for installing and placing a plasterboard doorway. Finishing a doorway from plasterboard: types and design ideas Doorway in plasterboard

Installing a plasterboard partition with a doorway allows you to easily and quickly make large room two small rooms. In the simplest version, this is an ordinary working partition with a door installed in it, but when creative approach To the point, this design can really decorate the interior.

Of course, a beginner will not be able to make an option like the one in the photo on his own right away. First you need to master the basics of working with drywall, and you need to start small. For example, you can make a doorway in a plasterboard partition - and the instructions offered in this article will help you with this.

One of the most popular concepts of modern interior design is the constructive delimitation of space, allowing it to be divided into several zones. But if you look at things more realistically, most residential property owners have no time for design.

They often need to install a partition with a door in order to allocate, although not large, a separate room for an older child, or a young couple who still have to live with their parents. How to adequately cope with such a difficult task?

By searching: “Do-it-yourself plasterboard doorway video,” you can find and watch videos with master classes from professionals. But we think that theory will also not hurt – especially for those who have never encountered such work before.

Required materials and tools

Manufacturing doorway under drywall, requires, of course, a certain skill, but before starting this work, you should stock up on the necessary tools. First of all, you will need two planes specifically designed for working with plasterboard. They are called: peeling and edging: the first one processes the cut line of the sheet, and the second one is necessary in order to cut a chamfer on it at a certain angle.

Cut drywall sheets with a knife with a reinforced blade. However, in some cases a special hacksaw is used, which you see below. To cut the profile, you can use ordinary metal scissors. For the rest, they use general construction tools that every owner has in their arsenal: a hammer drill with drills, a screwdriver, a hammer, a set of screwdrivers.

Cover the opening door plasterboard the simplest thing is that the main thing is that the frame is correctly installed under it. The main role here is played by correct marking, which cannot be done without a building level, a plumb line, a paint cord, and a tape measure with a magnetic hook at the end. Professional installers use a completely different tool for this - but their scope of work is appropriate.
In terms of materials, you will need two types of metal profiles: a guide, mounted around the perimeter of the partition (floor, walls, ceiling), and a rack, on the shelves of which there are stiffening ribs. Domestic profiles are marked PN and PS, while imported profiles are marked UW and CW, respectively.

Note! During the installation process, the profiles are joined, so they need to be selected in pairs - so that the height of the rack shelf matches the width of the back of the rail: UW 75*40 mm and CW 75*50 mm.

The bearing capacity of the profile directly depends on the size of the section, and the longer the span, the thicker the partition will be. It must also correspond to the width of the door frame that is installed in the opening. Therefore, the standard size of the profiles must be appropriate.
To strengthen a plasterboard doorway, you will need a couple more wooden beams. Since they will have to be inserted inside the racks framing the opening, the cross-section of the beam must correspond to the size of the profile. And, of course, you can’t do the job without fasteners. To fix the guides you will need 6*40 dowel nails, and to install the sheathing you will need 3.5*25 mm plasterboard-metal screws.

The frame elements are fastened to each other using small self-tapping screws. The price of such a tool is not that high - you can buy an inexpensive option in the range of 580-980 rubles. But the connections are more rigid, and the work progresses much faster.
All that remains is to buy basalt mineral wool 60 cm wide, which is used for the internal filling of the structure and, in fact, the cladding material. To mount a plasterboard doorway in a working partition, you need to take wall gypsum board with a thickness of at least 12.5 mm.

And it’s even better to use gypsum boards rather than plasterboard - they have greater strength, since they are reinforced throughout the entire mass with asbestos fiber. The width of the sheets is standard: 1200 mm, but the length is selected depending on the height of the partition.

If it is higher than 2500 mm, then it is better to take sheets 3000 mm long - this way you will not have to insert narrow strips along the top. Accordingly, before covering the doorway with plasterboard, the sheet is oriented vertically with its long side.

Frame part of the structure

So, everything that is required for the work has been prepared - now we will figure out what needs to be done and how. You need to start by preparing the surfaces. Of course, you won’t have to level them, but removing the covering from the floor and dismantling the wall or ceiling cladding, if any, may be necessary.

Installation of guides

The guide profile is installed first on the floor, for which the starting line is marked with a marking cord. Using it, you should measure the distance between the walls, after which you can cut the profile into pieces of the required length.

Even for a small partition, the lower guide profile cannot be solid, since there will be an opening in it, which means that at least two pieces will have to be cut.

So:

When cutting a profile, you should always minus 5-6 mm so that during thermal expansion it does not rest against the walls. Then, on the back side of the profile shelf, you need to stick a sealing tape made of foamed polyethylene. The tape is needed to improve the sound insulation of the structure, and also serves as a kind of shock-absorbing substrate.

Now you can install the profile. To do this, it is applied to marking line, and holes for dowels are drilled directly through it. Drilling is done at intervals of one meter, but in any case, each profile must be attached in three places.
After the guide is installed on the floor, the level marking line is transferred to the ceiling. Installation of a profile on it is carried out in the same way, only its length should be measured along the ceiling, and not along the floor, since due to deviations of opposite walls in height or vertical, serious errors may occur.
The same applies to the supporting profile. Before cutting it, for each rack you need to measure the height of the room exactly in the place where it will be installed. When cutting profiles, you need to subtract not 5, but 10 mm from this figure - after all, in addition to thermal expansion, it is also worth taking into account the thickness of the metal of the guides.

First, install the wall profiles, gluing sealing tape on them in the same way as was done on the floor and ceiling.

When the base is concrete or brick, dowel-nails are used as fasteners. If the vertical guides have to be mounted to plasterboard sheathing, then fastening is done with self-tapping screws into the wall rack profile, or using special butterfly-shaped dowels.

Posts and lintels

As soon as the frame along the contour of the partition is ready, they begin to install the doorway pillars. We have already mentioned that they are strengthened using wooden blocks, but there is another way.

If the door is not too heavy (no more than 30 kg), then the experts will do this.

In this case, the support posts are made from two profiles using the attachment method - that is, the shelves of one element are inserted inside the other and pressed well. Then their ends of the double profile are inserted into the guides and secured with self-tapping screws or a cutter. There should be a distance between the vertical elements of the opening corresponding to the width of the door block.

Once the racks are securely fixed, you can begin installing the horizontal lintel of the opening. Cut it out from the guide profile. The length of the jumper is the sum of the distance between the posts. We also add a plus 10 cm of margin for the bend, which is necessary in order to join the jumper with the vertical elements of the frame. How to cut and bend the ends of the profile is clearly shown in the picture below.
Now you need to strengthen the jumper. To do this, you need to install one or two short racks above it, which will connect the two horizontal element designs. The number of studs above the lintel depends not only on its length, but also on how the drywall is installed around the doorway.

If it is a single sheet that completely covers the opening, then one rack is enough. In this case, the excess part of the gypsum board that covers the opening is cut out with a hacksaw after the sheet is mounted on the frame. If the sheathing elements are cut in advance and then joined, there must be at least two posts above the lintel.
Next, intermediate vertical frame elements are mounted. The step between them should be no more than 60 cm so that the sheet, whose width is 1200 mm, is secured both at the edges and in the center. To make this possible, the backs of all profiles must face the front side towards you.

Where sheets have to be joined horizontally, it is necessary to install the same jumpers as above the doorway. All load-bearing frame elements must be double. This is necessary so that they can be sheathed on both sides - otherwise, you will have to install two parallel frames.

Covering the partition frame

Let's say you want to make lighting, install sockets or switches on the partition. After the “skeleton” of the partition is mounted, it’s time to install wiring in it.

The cable must be perpendicular to the racks, and it is passed through specially prepared holes in the profile shelves. Laying wiring inside profiles is unacceptable!

Next, you can begin installing drywall. The length of the sheet should be cut so that it is 10 mm less than the height of the room. The gypsum board is attached to the rack profile with plasterboard-metal screws measuring 3.5 * 25 mm. Fastenings along the rack are made at a distance of a maximum of 250 mm, and the sheet begins to be fastened in the direction from the center to the edges.

The end of the sheet on which the chamfer was cut should be adjacent to ceiling surface, and the outermost screw should be at least 15 mm away from it. Fastenings made on joined sheets must be offset by approximately 10 mm. The self-tapping screws must go straight into the plasterboard and go deeper into the rack by no less than a centimeter.
When making fastenings, you need to ensure that the heads of the screws enter the thickness of the drywall by about 1 mm, which is necessary for subsequent puttying - just don’t overdo it. The sheet adjacent to the wall must be cut to width, the edge cut, and a chamfer made.

Making openings: plasterboard partition, ready for finishing

If the sheet extends beyond the perimeter of the doorway, it can be very easily trimmed after it is completely secured. They do this with a hacksaw, first piercing it with a sharp end, the sheet in the corner of the opening. When performing cladding, it is necessary to remember that the joints of the elements should not be placed on the racks along which the door frame will be mounted.

Now that one side of the partition is completely ready, fill its cavity with mineral wool. This is insulation (see) - but in this case, it plays the role of a soundproofing layer.

Next, all that remains is to cover the second side of the structure with sheathing - and your partition is ready for puttying and finishing. You will get information on how to do this correctly from the video in this article.

Unfortunately, today not everyone can afford to purchase spacious housing, but most of us still strive to create maximum coziness and comfort in what we have. Is there a way out of the situation when the number of rooms in the apartment is not enough to fully satisfy the needs of all family members? What if one room has to be used as a living room, office and bedroom? Despite the complexity of the question, the answer is quite simple - any living space can be divided into functional areas, dividing frame partitions, covered with plasterboard, and installing the door.

Anatomy of a plasterboard structure

Despite the features of the interior, your design concept, as well as the location and size of plasterboard partitions, all these structures, as a rule, have a standard structure. Their basis is a rigid metal frame made of galvanized profile, which can be reinforced with a wooden beam at the installation point of the doorway. To increase the heat and sound insulation properties, the sheathing is filled with a special insulator, the choice of which depends on the characteristics of the room and the requirements for the structure. The assembled and insulated frame is sheathed on both sides sheets of drywall(GKL) - a reliable, environmentally friendly and easy-to-install material, completely ready for any type of finishing.

The profile frame is filled with insulation and sheathed with gypsum plasterboard sheets

Application area

Frame partitions covered with gypsum plasterboard are used to divide or zone space in rooms of various layouts and purposes. These structures are installed in industrial and office buildings, residential buildings and apartments, garages and outbuildings. The variety of types of plasterboard allows you to install partitions in rooms with high humidity and special fire safety requirements.

Advantages

Frame structures covered with plasterboard sheets have long and with great success replaced partitions made of brick or wood due to a number of characteristic advantages:

Properties of materials. Lasting metallic profile allows the installation of lightweight frames of partitions of any shape and size that do not create additional load on the load-bearing floors. The material is resistant to moisture, galvanized coating prevents oxidation and rust formation. Drywall is an environmentally friendly material, specially treated to improve its fire-retardant and moisture-resistant properties. It is easy to install, strong and durable, and its combination with stone wool, foam plastic or cork board enhances the heat and sound insulation properties of the structure. GKL is distinguished by a perfectly smooth surface, which has unlimited possibilities for decorative finishing.
Fast and easy installation. Plasterboard partitions easy to install - even a beginner, “inexperienced” home craftsman in construction work can create them. Note that one of the advantages of these structures is the ability to change their location - the product can be easily disassembled and reassembled.
Laying communications. The possibility of laying electrical wiring, water supply or sewerage pipelines inside the partition frame is another advantage of this design.
Minimum costs. All elements that make up a partition covered with gypsum plasterboard are low in cost. When installing the product, no piles are formed construction waste and dust, not exceeded permissible level noise and uses minimal energy.

Flaws

We will also definitely note the disadvantages of the design that need to be taken into account when making the final decision on its creation:

The relative fragility of drywall compared to materials for capital construction (brick, concrete, wood). This parameter can only be increased by adding skin layers.
Low resistance of gypsum boards to heavy exposure to moisture. The material can be destroyed as a result of a leak “organized” by neighbors living above.
Inability to attach massive shelves to the partition surface or wall cabinets. The structure is capable of supporting a weight of up to 70 kg per linear meter, provided that the elements are attached to the frame parts, and the drywall itself can support no more than 15 kg.

Despite some shortcomings of gypsum boards, we note that competent creation and correct operation Partitions made from this material will help quickly, easily and inexpensively transform the interior of a room, giving it comfort and increasing its functionality.

Preparing for work

That’s it, this short “theory course” is over, let’s move on to solving practical issues. First, we will consider the list of necessary tools, list the materials that we will need to erect the structure, and also perform an approximate calculation of their quantity.

Tool

To install a partition, you need to prepare a set of special, but quite common and simple tools:

Tape measure, nylon cord, building level, plumb line, pencil - marking the location of the structure.
Angle grinder (“grinder”) or metal scissors - cutting profile strips into elements required length.
A jigsaw (hacksaw) with drywall saws or a construction knife - cutting sheathing sheets to size.
Impact drill or hammer drill - making holes in load-bearing floors for dowels for mounting the PN profile.
Electric (battery) screwdriver - fastening frame parts and installing sheathing sheets using self-tapping screws.

To install the partition you will need a simple construction tool

Attention! To install the structure on the upper levels, you will need a durable stepladder. Working with metal profiles and drywall requires the mandatory use of personal protective equipment - goggles or a mask, thick gloves, a respirator.

Materials

At self-installation The following materials will be used for partitions:

There are two types of metal profiles for mounting the frame: PN - “guide” (English marking UW) - attached to the floor, ceiling and load-bearing walls to form the outline of the structure. Also used when creating a doorway. PS - “rack-mount” (English marking CW) - is installed vertically to ensure the rigidity of the frame. It is a load-bearing element of the sheathing.
Drywall for sheathing - covers the frame on both sides.
Insulation - fills the inside of the structure, increasing its heat and sound insulation properties.

1 - metal profile; 2 - material for heat and sound insulation; 3 - drywall

When choosing basic materials for the construction of a partition, you need to take into account its individual parameters and the requirements that it must meet.

Let's look at this question in more detail: Profile. Standard installation
Drywall. There are several types of material for covering the frame; the choice here depends only on the characteristics of the room. For example: when installing a partition in a bathroom, you need to use gypsum board - a moisture-resistant type of drywall, and creating curved and shaped structures will require the use of thinner sheets.
Insulation material. It is selected based on the requirements for the partition and the characteristics of the room - when dividing a room into a study and a nursery, you will need a good sound insulator (cork board or dense foam), and to highlight the hallway area it will be useful basalt wool, excellent heat retention.

In addition to the basic structural elements, to create it you will need:

Dowel-nails (6x40 or 6x60 mm) – installation of the profile to the floors.
Self-tapping screws for metal (LB 9 or LB 11) – fastening frame elements.
Self-tapping piercing screws for plasterboard (MN 25 or MN 30) – installation of sheathing.
Sealing (damper) tape - a gasket between the guide profile and the main floors.
Corner profile (PU) - strengthening the joint of sheathing sheets at the corners of the doorway.

The entire structure will be mounted using three types of fasteners

Expert advice: When purchasing everything you need, at the same time purchase materials for sealing joints between sheets and masking the areas where screw heads are screwed in on the surface of the sheathing - reinforcing sickle tape, primer for gypsum boards, finishing putty.

Measurements + consumables calculation table

To avoid unnecessary financial costs and eliminate the need for additional purchases of material, you should correctly calculate it required amount. There is no difficulty in this event - you need to measure the height and length of the proposed structure and determine its main parameters (profile width and number of cladding layers). Let's consider the calculation of the material, taking as an example a partition 5 meters long and 3 meters high with a doorway 0.8 meters wide and 2.1 meters high, with a frame made of a profile 75 mm wide and single-layer cladding with gypsum plasterboard sheets.

Guide profile (UW). We calculate the perimeter of our structure (5 m + 3 m) * 2 = 16 m. Subtract the width of the doorway (0.8) from this value and get 15.2 m. It is known that the height of the partition is 3 m, therefore, we will definitely need two three-meter strips, which we will secure entirely, vertically to the load-bearing walls. We will cover the remaining length of 9.2 m with three four-meter profile strips (12 m), and the excess (2.8 m) will be useful for strengthening the frame at the location where the door is installed and installing jumpers between the posts.
The UW profile that forms the outline of the structure is indicated in black.
Rack profile (CW). Taking into account the standard width of the gypsum board sheet (1.2 m), the vertical posts of the frame must be installed in increments of no more than 0.6 m, so that the joints of the slabs are connected on one profile, and another element is located in the middle of the sheet.
Frame posts should be mounted at a distance of no more than 600 mm from each other
Knowing the length of the partition, we can calculate the number of racks by dividing 5 m by 0.6 and ultimately getting 8 strips 3 meters long (the indicator is determined in accordance with the height of the structure).
The vertical posts of the partition frame made from CW profile are marked in grey.
Profile for a doorway. At the location where the door is installed, we will have to move one post, reinforcing it with a strip of guide profile, this is constructive solution will also be applied on the other side of the opening. Thus, we will need another three-meter rack profile (CW) and two guide strips (UW) of the same length. To decorate the upper part of the doorway, a section of the guide profile 1.0 m long will be used.
Two load-bearing reinforced pillars are highlighted in green, and the lintel (upper beam) of the doorway is highlighted in blue.
Profile for jumpers between racks. To increase the strength of the frame, horizontal jumpers from a guide profile are installed between the posts at a height of 1.5 m. This will require another UW strip 3 m long and the excess that remained when calculating the contour of the partition.
The jumpers made of UW profile are marked in blue, increasing the overall rigidity of the structure.
Drywall. As a material for cladding we use gypsum board sheets (slabs) with a length of 3000, a width of 1200 and a thickness of 12.5 mm. To cover one side of the frame, we will need five sheets, two of which will be used entirely, and the remaining three will have to be cut to size. We calculate the drywall for the second side of the partition so that the joints of the sheets do not intersect, but are offset by half the sheet. This also requires five slabs - two full and three trimmed.
On one side of the frame, the sheathing sheets will be arranged in this way
The second side of the frame must be closed with the sheets offset by one rack or 600 mm

Expert advice: Double-sided installation of gypsum board sheets with offset joints will increase the rigidity of the structure, significantly reducing the possibility of deformation and reducing the likelihood of cracks on the surface of the material. If you need a more durable partition, use two layers of drywall when covering it.

Summarizing the calculations, we can conclude that to create a 5x3 m plasterboard partition with a doorway we will need:

guide profile (UW–75) 3 meters - 5 strips;
guide profile (UW–75) 4 meters - 3 stripes;
rack profile (CW–75) 3 meters - 9 stripes;
plasterboard (gypsum board 1200x3000x12.5 mm) - 10 sheets.

The number of hardware (fastening elements) is calculated based on the step of their installation. The maximum distance between the dowels securing the guide profile to the floors should not exceed 500 mm, and self-tapping drywall screws are installed every 250–300 mm.

Engineers German company KNAUF is a world leader in the production of materials and technologies for frame construction- prepared a table that will help us when performing calculations.

Position	Name	Unit measurements	Quantity per sq. m
1	KNAUF sheet (GKL, GKLV, GKLO)	sq. m	2,0
2	KNAUF profile PN 50/40 (75/40, 100/40)	linear m	0,7
3	KNAUF profile PS 50/50 (75/50, 100/50)	linear m	2,0
4	Screw TN 25	PC.	29
5	Putty KNAUF-Fugen	kg	0,6
6	Reinforcing tape	linear m	1,5
7	Dowel K 6/35	PC.	1,6
8	Sealing tape	linear m	1,2
9	Primer KNAUF-Tiefengrund	l	0,2
10	Mineral wool thermal insulation KNAUF	sq. m	1,0
11	KNAUF-profile PU	PC.	*

* Please note that the quantity corner profile(PU) depends on the size of the doorway and is not related to the area of the structure.

Attention! To simplify calculations when building a plasterboard partition, you can use a special online calculator that shows the approximate consumption of the main material and all other components.

How to do it yourself: step-by-step instructions

So, all the important stages of preparation for work have been completed, let’s be patient, enlist the support of loved ones, get the approval of neighbors and begin installing the structure.

Expert advice: Any construction works with the use of plasterboard should be carried out at an air temperature in the room not lower than +15 C. It is better to install structures before finishing the floors and painting work. Before creating a partition, the surface of the main floors should be leveled, filling potholes, seams and cracks with putty.

Layout and marking

Before proceeding with the installation of the structure, we will determine the location of its installation and draw up a schematic plan according to which the markings will be carried out. This stage of work is as follows:

Attention! It should be remembered that the line we have drawn is a mark for attaching the guide profile. To determine the exact boundary of the structure itself, you need to add the thickness of the plasterboard slabs and its finishing layer.

Installation of sheathing

Having finished with the markings, we will carefully check the correctness of its application and proceed to production. metal frame our partition:

Using an angle grinder (“grinder”) or metal scissors, we will cut pieces of the UW guide profile to the required length. We will paste a sealing damper tape on the back side of the blanks, which softens the sound vibrations and vibrations that will be transmitted to the structure from the main floors.
The sealing damper tape will protect the structure from sound vibrations and vibrations
We will fasten the strips along the horizontal marking line, drilling holes for dowel-nails with a hammer drill (in increments of no more than 400–500 mm) and driving in the fasteners with a hammer. Experienced craftsmen It is advised to start with the top guide located on the ceiling, since it will be easier to “shoot” with a plumb line from there the correct installation of the floor profile.
We drill holes for the dowel-nails with a hammer drill and hammer in the fasteners
We will install vertical guides, securing them to the load-bearing walls (with the same step) along the marking line and checking the correct installation using a building level. Note that fastening the metal profile to brick walls with a thick layer of plaster will require the use of longer dowel nails (6x60 or 8x60).
When mounting the guides to the load-bearing walls, we check the verticality using a building level
We will form a doorway by installing reinforced profile posts in the marked location. Let's measure the distance between the lower and upper parts of the frame contour, be sure to subtract 10 mm from this value and cut two strips of the CW profile given size. There are several options for strengthening the parts - you can insert the guide profile into the rack profile and secure it on both sides with self-tapping metal screws (every 150–200 mm) or strengthen the CW strip with a dry wooden beam, selecting it according to size, inserting it inside and also fastening it with self-tapping screws.
We insert the rack profile into the guide and fasten the structure with metal screws
Let's install the reinforced rack into the floor guide of the frame, bring the top of the strip into the ceiling (here a 10 mm gap comes in handy), check the strict verticality of the element with a level and secure the part with metal screws. Let's mount the second rack in a similar way.
When installing the rack, first install it in the lower guide, then carefully place it in the upper
We will set up the racks from the CW profile in increments of 600 mm, starting from any of load-bearing walls. The installation process of these elements completely coincides with the installation of reinforced racks - we cut the parts into strips 10 mm less than the distance between the guides, we check the verticality with a level, and fasten them with metal screws. Note that the step size of 600 mm should be in the middle of the rack profile, since it is at this point that the sheathing sheets, which have a standard width of 1200 mm, will be joined.
The rack profile is attached to the guides with metal screws
Let's mount the horizontal lintel (upper beam) of the doorway. Let's cut a piece from the guide profile strip 200 mm longer than the distance between the reinforced posts. We measure 100 mm from each edge of the part and cut the side parts perpendicular to the base, leaving it intact. Carefully bend these segments inward and get a profile strip the right size with blind ends.
You can insert inside the top beam of the opening wooden beam, further strengthening the structure
Install a jumper between the pillars of the opening in in the right place(we will take into account the height of the door block, as well as the possibility of further installation of the finishing floor covering), check the horizontal level with a building level and secure the part with self-tapping metal screws. This structural element can also be strengthened by any of the methods mentioned.
If the height of the room at the installation site of the partition exceeds 3 m, you will have to manufacture and install additional stiffening ribs - transverse jumpers between the racks. The parts are made similarly to the upper beam of the doorway and are attached to the CW rack profile with metal screws.
Option for placing transverse lintels in a frame with a height of more than 3 m
Inside the finished frame of the partition we will install embedded elements from a profile, strong thick plywood or timber, to which we can attach hanging cabinets, heavy mirrors and sconces. After this, we will install the electrical wiring, placing it in a special corrugated pipe, and also lay all the necessary communications and pipelines.
Wooden beams need to be secured in places where heavy wall cabinets and other massive interior elements are installed.

At this point, the work on installing the frame is completed; you can move on to the next, no less important stage of creating the partition.

Sheathing the frame with installation of heat and sound insulation

In order for the structure to reliably store heat and protect peace from extraneous noise, its insides must be filled with special insulating material. Many years of practice show that an inexpensive but high-quality heat and sound insulator - mineral (stone or basalt) wool - is quite suitable for these purposes.

Plates from mineral wool reliably retain heat and also isolate the room from extraneous noise

Expert advice: In order to fill the frame of an interior room partition, purchase slabs or mats of mineral wool of the required thickness - material of this form of manufacture is easily cut to size and conveniently placed between the elements of the sheathing.

Before installing a layer of heat and sound insulation inside the structure, perform the following steps:

Let's cover one side of the frame with plasterboard, starting with a whole sheet from the wall where the 600 mm pitch for racks from the CW profile began. Remember that when installing gypsum boards, you must leave a gap of 5–10 mm at the junction of the slab with the ceiling and floor. The material tends to expand with changes in temperature and humidity, and “blind” installation in a spacer can lead to its deformation and the appearance of cracks.
Installation of the sheathing is carried out from a whole sheet from the wall where the set of racks began
We attach the cladding sheet to the profile by tightening the gypsum board screws around the entire perimeter in increments of 250–300 mm. We recess the heads of the self-tapping screws into the drywall to a depth of 0.5–0.8 mm.
The heads of self-tapping screws should be slightly recessed into the surface of the drywall
Using a jigsaw or knife, we cut the remaining sheathing elements to size and fasten them in such a way that the sheets join exactly in the middle of the rack profile.
We join the sheets of drywall exactly in the middle of the profile
Having closed one side of the frame, we lay it inside insulating material, cutting it with a small allowance and inserting it between the posts at random.
Place mineral wool slabs cut to size between the sheathing posts
We install the cladding on the other side of the partition, shifting the sheets by 600 mm (one rack) relative to the closed part of the surface - this method of fastening the cladding will significantly increase the strength of the structure.
We close the other side of the frame with gypsum board, moving the sheet by one rack (600 mm)
We will strengthen the joints and edges of the sheets in the place where the doorway is installed with a corner profile.

Attention! When installing gypsum plasterboard sheathing, remember that the sheet must be fixed around the entire perimeter - to fasten the extension or parts of non-standard size, you will have to insert additional profile elements into the frame.

Final chords

Having finished covering the partition frame, we will insert the door block into it and resolve the issue of finishing the drywall surface. If a strict vertical line was observed when installing the opening, installing the block will not cause any difficulties.

The issue of finishing the cladding surface is also resolved quite simply:

Now the partition with the door is ready for any type of finishing - it can be covered with wallpaper, painted, ceramic tiles or decorative plaster- it depends only on your imagination and financial capabilities. For a more detailed introduction to the process of installing a frame structure covered with plasterboard, we bring to your attention the following video.

Video: How to build a partition from gypsum plasterboard and install a door

Many years of professional experience show that our fellow citizens are increasingly choosing plasterboard for the installation of additional load-bearing walls or interior partitions in your home. This material is easy to use and allows you to create such structures without resorting to the help of a team of builders, whose services are not cheap. We hope that now you can do this work yourself without any problems.

During renovations, it often becomes necessary to construct a doorway from plasterboard. Even a beginner can do this kind of work correctly with his own hands, but only if he understands the essence of the issue well enough. To do this, it is necessary to carefully study the features of each type of structure and the building material itself.

Drywall allows you to quickly and easily make a doorway

Features of the material

First of all, you should familiarize yourself with the properties of drywall. GCR is a fairly popular building material, it is used in almost any field, it allows you to build both small decorative extensions and quite massive elements. Using drywall, you can quickly level the surface of a wall or build partitions, both solid and shaped, including making a doorway.

Benefits of drywall:

Ease. The slabs vary in thickness, but in general their weight is negligible. There are lightweight options for finishing the ceiling, which has a positive effect on the condition of the supporting structures.
Availability. You can purchase gypsum boards in any construction department at a price that is quite affordable for the majority of the population.
Wide scope of application. It is used almost everywhere, not only in the field of rough construction, but also for decoration.
Strength. Despite its visual fragility and small thickness, drywall can withstand enormous loads. At proper finishing and operation, it does not deteriorate and retains its properties for decades.
Ease of processing. The material is quite pliable and very easy to work with. You can give it almost any shape with your own hands.
Quick installation. The plates are attached with glue or self-tapping screws to the frame; this can be done even alone in the shortest possible time.
Additional properties. Some types of drywall have additional distinctive characteristics. For example, blue plasterboard is moisture-resistant, red is fire-resistant. There are also plasterboard sandwich panels with insulation.

The main advantages of drywall are lightness and quick installation.

Changing the dimensions of the opening

In order to make a strong doorway from plasterboard sheet with your own hands, it is necessary to highlight several types of structures. Most often there is a need to change the dimensions of the opening, namely to reduce its height or width.

In order to complete this task, you will need an additional metal profile of two types: starting and rack. They differ, first of all, in the specific location and functions performed.

To build the frame you will need two types of aluminum profile

In order to increase the rigidity of the plasterboard structure, it is necessary to additionally lay wooden beams into the rack profile.

First you need to determine the required dimensions. If you decide to move the doorway slightly, cut out the wall using a grinder. Next, secure the profile at the top and bottom. It is also recommended to install an additional stand on the wall side. A vertical element is fixed at the edges and tightened with self-tapping screws. For greater rigidity, several more crossbars are attached.

If you need to reduce the height, the main supports will be wall profiles. After their installation, the plasterboard is cut into sheets so that its edges are in the middle of the profile. They are also screwed on using self-tapping screws.

Reducing the height of a doorway using a plasterboard sheet

Straight frame construction

More labor-intensive is the construction of a partition from scratch. Such a wall made of plasterboard sheets with a doorway must be designed in advance. The plan outlines the exact position of the door and the necessary parameters for the opening. It is important to take into account that the structure needs to be built somewhat smaller in size, since after finishing part of the area is hidden.

In order to do everything yourself, you will need a larger number of profiles than for the previous type of work. First of all, mark directly on the floor and walls. Here you need to outline the position of the vertical posts and.

Scheme of the frame structure for a partition made of aluminum profile

After this, you need to install horizontal profiles on the floor and ceiling, the rack strips will be driven into them. Additionally, the structure can be strengthened horizontal profiles in places where you plan to hang a cabinet, TV or other interior items. The sheets are screwed in the manner already described. Insulation is placed inside the partition. An additional protective corner is placed on the corners.

Drywall sheets are attached to the frame using self-tapping screws

Arch

You can make not only standard doorways from plasterboard, but also more interesting decorative designs. It's about about arches. In order to make them with your own hands, you need to give the building materials a specific shape.

Using drywall you can create an arched structure of almost any configuration:

direct portal;
ellipse;
round extended;
non-standard asymmetrical;
etc.

Interesting options for arched openings

The frame is erected in a standard way with one difference: the profiles are bent to suit a given project. To do this, they are cut with metal scissors. In order to bend the drywall, you need to go over it with a needle roller, then lightly wet it with water to make it more pliable and fix it in the required position. Make sure that the cardboard does not soften, otherwise the plaster will crumble and crumble in the future.

Stages of installation of a simple arched plasterboard structure

Plasterboard finishing

Sometimes you only need to slightly adjust the contours of the doorway. In this case, the wall is often covered with a layer of plaster. Some irregularities require significant consumption of materials, and therefore it would be more advisable to use plasterboard to correct irregularities.

To do this with your own hands, you need to measure the required dimensions for the drywall and fix it on the slopes and inside the opening itself. Minor defects and seams will be hidden in the future by plaster. The corners are leveled with a special profile made of aluminum or plastic.

Drywall can be glued to special composition or use regular putty.

Finishing door slope drywall

Final finishing

Once the wall and doorway have been removed, you can begin the final stage of finishing. For this purpose, putty and painting mesh are used. If you plan to do everything yourself, you can divide the work into several stages:

Padding. A primer is applied to the entire surface and dried completely.
Removing defects. The seams are sealed with sickle tape, the places where the screws are screwed in and the corners should also be treated; it is important to hide the transition from the wall to the plasterboard structure.
Alignment. The locally applied putty is rubbed off after complete drying, and a new layer is applied on top, this time over the entire area of the material.
Mashing. The surface is sanded again, if there are no irregularities, you can proceed to decorative finishing, otherwise you need to repeat the previous procedure and wipe the surface again.

It is possible to hide drywall seams using putty

Subject to compliance with design standards and rules, a doorway made of gypsum plasterboard will be able to withstand significant loads. At the same time, it will look even better than the standard options.

To expand the space, it is often recommended to remove interior doors. But what remains then: an empty opening and that’s it? An acceptable way out of the situation is to organize doorways from plasterboard. Why? It’s inexpensive, fast, and also varied: there can be a lot of design options! A wooden opening, say, will look better than a plasterboard one, but if there is a question of a limited budget with a high bar for the desired result, there is no reason to refuse gypsum boards.

Arched openings: choosing a design

Possible designs of interior plasterboard arches can be divided into several subgroups

“classic” - using an arc of the same radius;
“modern” - the use of increasing the bending radius of the arch in the vertical direction (ellipse shape);
“Gothic” - the highest point is formed by planes converging at an angle;
“Romantic” - the arch is formed by a complex combination of straight and rounded elements.

The choice of arch style should be based on the interior style of both rooms separated by the opening.

IMPORTANT! When choosing the shape of the arch, also take into account the height of the ceilings of the room. Arch with complex shape can significantly reduce the space of a room, while an arch cut not to the height of the doorway, but to the full height of the walls, will expand the space and give more light to both rooms.

Interior openings: preparation for installation

Preparatory stage

When working with plasterboard covering an opening, it is especially important preparatory stage: Draw a doorway on a piece of paper at a scale convenient for you. Visualization will help you finally decide on the style and shape of the future arch. After dismantling the door and cleaning the surface, measure the height, width of the arch, as well as the diameter and radius of the bend (if you have chosen a curved shape of the structure).

Installation of metal profile

After the calculation work, proceed with the installation of the metal profile.

IMPORTANT! It is more convenient to work with a U-shaped metal profile, because This element has a sufficient level of rigidity.

When working with the profile, you will also use a metal hole punch and special scissors.

IMPORTANT! Many craftsmen recommend using self-tapping screws to fasten structural elements, but you should work with them carefully: the heads of the screws will interfere with the tight fit of the gypsum board sheets to the arch frame.

Calculate the length of the profile based on the previous measurements. Using a soft meter, measure the edge of the sheet using the arch template; use scissors to make cuts on the profile in 5 cm increments - this will help give the guide the required shape. Bend the profile according to the template. The frame for the arch is ready.

Preparing drywall

To prepare drywall for installation in a doorway, you can use one of the following methods:

with a small depth of the doorway, and the width of the plasterboard arch not exceeding 20 cm, on one side of the gypsum plasterboard strip, continuous cuts are made on the cardboard every 1 cm (the sheet is slightly cracked along the cuts to make it possible to bend the gypsum board according to the template), the side with the cuts should be subsequently sewn towards the ceiling;
You can bend the sheet by first piercing it with a special roller (gypsum plasterboard is moistened generously with water and rolled over the entire area of the sheet with a spiked roller).

IMPORTANT! This design, after bending according to the template, is left to dry for at least 12 hours until the gypsum board acquires its original rigidity.

IMPORTANT! To cover the horizontal part of the opening, it is best to use ceiling plasterboard, because... This material is thinner and therefore can be bent much better (any shaped elements can be made with it).

Do-it-yourself gypsum plasterboard arch: installation of drywall

Irregularities in the wall are chipped off or leveled with any other in an accessible way. Next, a metal profile PN 27/28 is fixed on both sides of the opening.

IMPORTANT! In order to interior arch formed a single plane with the walls of adjacent rooms, the profile is deepened into the opening to a depth equal to the thickness of the gypsum board used.

Using the calculations and the prepared template, the sides of the arch are cut out: the lower plane of the sidewall is cut out according to the template, the upper plane is cut off from a sheet of drywall, focusing on the height and width of the arch. The sidewall is applied to the attachment point to verify the correctness of the cutout. If the part is cut out correctly, the second side panel is also cut out in a mirror image.

IMPORTANT! In addition to gypsum board, MDF can be used to organize the sidewalls.

Straight profiles are fixed in the opening, followed by a curved guide. Traditional way: everything is secured with self-tapping screws structural elements from gypsum plasterboard (sidewalls and curved sheet of plasterboard).

IMPORTANT! Screw in the self-tapping screws without pressing too hard: the metal profile may bend due to overdoing and then the structure you have built will lose its shape.

Interior arch design

After installing the gypsum board elements, the protruding corners of the structure and the joints of the arch with the wall and ceiling are framed with special perforated corners, which are then covered with sickle tape.

Photo 8 - Puttying the arch

IMPORTANT! Sealing the entire gypsum board with putty, and not just the joints and seams of the structure, is important, because When further painting the surface, uneven base color may affect the final appearance of the painted surface.

After drying finishing putty the surface is polished to a smooth state.

After this, the surface is ready for painting or wallpapering.

If there is a need to narrow the doorway, you can also use gypsum boards: “extend” the arch by making a plasterboard structure along the entire height of the opening, or block the doorway, say, with bricks to the required width.

Drywall doorways: VIDEO

October 22, 2016
Specialization: master in construction plasterboard structures, finishing works and laying floor coverings. Installation of door and window units, finishing of facades, installation of electrical, plumbing and heating - I can give detailed advice on all types of work.

In this review I will tell you how to make a doorway from plasterboard with your own hands. Moreover, we will not consider just any individual option, as is done in most reviews, but we will deal with all the most popular types designs, you must decide in advance which technology would be better suited for your situation. Right choice will provide not only best result, but will also simplify the work process and reduce the costs of project implementation.

Types of openings

The conditions for constructing structures may be different, so you don’t need to listen to anyone’s advice about the advantages of this or that option. You should familiarize yourself with all the technologies for carrying out work and, based on the information received, make an informed and informed decision.

Option 1 – partition with opening

If you need to make a wall with a doorway, then this section will help you understand the technology and carry out the work quickly and efficiently. This method is very popular in new buildings, where you get a room in which there are no partitions, and you determine the layout yourself; you can also redevelop the existing space, of course, if you have agreed on everything in advance.

This option must be considered as a whole - from the beginning of planning the partition to its assembly, since it is impossible to first make a wall and then build an opening in the right place, everything is thought out in advance. It doesn’t matter whether it’s a plasterboard wall with a door or an arch, it’s important to make a durable partition that will serve you for many years.

The workflow consists of several stages, each of which is important. Therefore, all the recommendations outlined below must be followed. Let's start with the planning stage:

To begin with, you need to clearly determine the place where the future wall will go; you should think it over carefully so that it doesn’t later turn out that you missed some important nuances. Those who do the work themselves, due to lack of experience and haste, often make mistakes and miscalculations, so you shouldn’t determine everything by eye, it’s better to estimate everything using a tape measure;
Once you clearly know the location of the wall, you can begin to determine the exact location of the opening. It all depends on the layout of your premises, its configuration and future. It is important that the end result is not only attractive, but also comfortable; think about where the location of the opening or door will be most rational;

If you clearly know the location of the wall and opening, then making a drawing will not be difficult special labor. For the example above, an option is shown indicating the structural elements so that you can plan their position. The guide profile sets the position of the wall, the posts create a plane, and the lintels increase strength; naturally, a frame is made around the perimeter of the opening;
The stage cannot be considered complete until you mark the position of the structure in the room. This will simplify your further work, and will allow you to see errors, for example, too small space or communication interference. The markings are made along the ceiling, after which the lines are transferred to the floor using a plumb line - this option allows you to make an ideal vertical and eliminate errors that are necessarily present when working with a level.

You can use a more modern markup solution - laser level. This is what specialists most often use. If you have the opportunity to borrow such equipment, then you can work with it, the main thing is to ask for advice on the operation of the level, the opinion that anyone can use it is wrong.

You cannot carry out work without a certain set of materials, the list looks like this:

Materials	Description
Drywall	Use wall option 12.5 mm thick, it is not worth using ceiling sheets, their strength is low and even a child can break through such walls. Naturally, if the design is made for a room with high humidity, then it is necessary to purchase moisture-resistant drywall, which is easy to distinguish by the green color of the outer covering
Metal profile	I strongly recommend not saving and purchasing a good-quality rack profile measuring 50x100 mm and guide elements 50x50 mm. Adapting a regular profile is not the best idea, its strength is low, and a wall thickness of 6 cm will not allow you to achieve good sound insulation and structural rigidity
Mineral wool	We will use it to fill the cavities for sound and heat insulation of the partition. Regular ones will do rolled materials, they are cheaper than specialized options, but, as practice shows, this option is sufficient for effective noise absorption
Fasteners	This includes dowels quick installation and self-tapping screws different types, with their help the structure is assembled into a single whole. The most commonly used dowels are 6x40, screws 3.5x11 mm and 3.5x25 mm

As for the tools, you will need the following set for work:

A hammer drill for drilling holes for dowels. If your walls and floor are wooden, then there is no need for this tool;
A screwdriver - you definitely can’t do without this device; screwing a huge number of screws by hand is a bad idea.
To cut the profile, use ordinary metal scissors, the main thing is that they are sharp;
To control the position of each element, you need a level, and to take measurements and markings, you should have a tape measure and a construction pencil on hand;
Drywall cutting is done using the usual construction knife, to simplify the work, you can additionally use a metal ruler, then the cutting line will be perfectly straight.

Now let’s figure out how to build the frame of the structure; the instructions for carrying out the work look like this:

A guide profile is laid out along the previously made markings; if necessary, individual elements are cut using metal scissors. Moreover, it is not necessary to cut the element completely at the corners; you can make cuts on the side shelves and simply bend it, so the structure will be more rigid;
Next, you need to mark the surface of the walls, floor and ceiling for drilling holes for dowels. The dowel spacing is 50-60 cm, the work is not difficult, but it requires a certain amount of time. The hammer drill is very noisy, so do not use it in the morning or evening;
The guide profile is fixed with dowels; to do this, they are first inserted into the hole, and then impact screws are driven into them, everything is very simple and quick;

Racks are inserted into the finished structure along the perimeter of the partition and secured with self-tapping screws at a distance of 60 cm from each other. For work, so-called “bugs” are used; they allow you to reliably connect the frame elements.

Now let’s figure out how to make an opening, because this is the main goal of our review, everything is simple:

Two partition profiles are placed at the edges; if you are thinking of placing a door in the structure, then the width of the opening should be 5 cm larger than door frame. If you have an arch, then keep in mind that drywall will be fixed to the surface, which needs to be finished with a decorative coating and putty; this also takes up some space;
It is advisable to strengthen the opening; there are two main options: either insert the profile into the profile so that you get a square post, or insert it into the groove wooden block suitable size and secure it with self-tapping screws. Both solutions have worked well, strengthening has never harmed anyone, even if you make an arch, you can later hang a door, a reinforced opening will allow this;

The entire structure can be reinforced with transverse jumpers, their number depends on the size of the structure and its rigidity, sometimes reinforcement is not required at all.

If there will be wiring inside the structure, then it must be laid at this stage in special corrugations. Then the following work is performed:

First, you need to line one of the walls with plasterboard, after which you can begin laying soundproofing material, it is positioned so that there are as few cracks and voids in the cavity as possible, this will ensure the best result;

After laying the material, the structure is completely sheathed; if there is a door inside the opening, then there is no need to sheath it along the inner perimeter; if there is an arch, then strips of plasterboard are attached to the surface.

Finishing works do not differ from ordinary ones, so we will not consider them. The corners of the opening must be reinforced with putty corners; they both level the joint and improve appearance designs.

Option 2 – leveling the opening with plasterboard

This is a simpler solution, which is used in cases where you need to quickly and efficiently align the contours of the opening. There is much less work here than in the option described above, but you still need to carefully understand all the nuances of the technology.

To work we need the following:

Drywall - its quantity is determined in advance, most often one sheet is enough;
The adhesive composition for drywall is a special mixture based on gypsum, which dries very quickly and firmly fixes the material on various substrates;
The tools you need are a knife for cutting drywall, a tape measure and a pencil for marking, a level to control the position of the elements, and a container for preparing the adhesive.

The workflow consists of several stages:

First of all, you need to prepare the surface of the opening: clean it of dirt, build-up of solution and other elements that interfere with work. If there is significant damage to the base, then it is easier to repair them with cement mortar; there is no need to perfectly align the planes; it is important to strengthen them and make them more or less even;
Then the opening is measured to determine the size of the plasterboard elements. First of all, I advise cutting out only the top element and only after fixing it, cutting the sidewalls; the width should be equal to the thickness of the wall, the length should allow the material to be positioned freely in the opening;

Before attaching drywall, I advise treating the surfaces with a strengthening primer, this will improve the adhesion of the adhesive and reduce the absorption of the base.

The adhesive composition is applied to the material in massive dots or, as builders call them, slaps. The element is carefully pressed against the top of the slope, after which you need to use a level to set it to a perfectly level position. If you are concerned about the reliability of the fixation, you can use 1-2 spacers, they can be removed after half an hour, the glue sets very quickly;

Next, measurements are taken of the side elements, pieces of drywall are cut out and glued in the same way as on the top part. It’s easier to work with side slopes; the most important thing is to remember to level them using a level; it’s unlikely that you’ll be able to correct the curvature later;
When the composition dries, and this only takes a couple of hours, you can begin finishing the structure; the gaps between the wall and the ends of the drywall can be filled with the same adhesive composition. Corners are placed on the corners to strengthen and level this part of the structure. Lastly, the surface is puttied and painted or covered with decorative paint.

The price of this option for finishing openings is low, but this solution has one significant drawback: the door cannot be fixed to such a surface or you will have to drill deep hole so that the anchor can reach the brick or concrete.

Option 3 – opening on a metal frame

If it is necessary to reduce the size of the opening or it is severely damaged, then the easiest way is to build a frame that will create structural rigidity and allow any base to be leveled. This option combines the two previous ones, since we will be working with concrete or other walls, and the plasterboard will be attached to a metal frame.

Let's look at the technology for carrying out the work:

First of all, the plaster is removed from one or both sides of the opening at a distance of 15-20 cm to the edge, this will allow the material to be aligned with the main surface and thereby significantly simplify the leveling process. Do not worry that you are removing a layer greater than the thickness of the drywall - this difference is compensated by the adhesive composition;
Then you need to use a level, tape measure and pencil to mark the position of the future structure; you need to make its outlines on the floor and the top of the opening so that when carrying out work you have clear guidelines and do not confuse anything. The markings will also help you decide how to strengthen the structure and where to place the frame elements;

The next stage is attaching the starting profile in the required places. Most often you need to cut small elements and fasten them with dowels or self-tapping screws. The markings made earlier serve as a guide; everything is very simple and convenient;

If you need to reduce the opening in height, then the frame is made in the upper part, its dimensions depend on the thickness of the walls, but remember that plasterboard will be attached on both sides, which means that there must be at least 13 mm from the frame to the plane of the wall. That is, after sheathing the structure, the surface should be leveled;

If doorways are made of plasterboard, then on the side of hanging the canvas it is advisable to strengthen the structure as I described above. It is important to ensure the rigidity of the system, so it is better to play it safe and strengthen it so that it can withstand even the heaviest door;
When the frame is ready, you can begin measuring the dimensions of the drywall, cutting and attaching them.. Moreover, the material is not attached in the usual way: if it comes to the surface of the wall, then there it sits on the plaster adhesive composition, and in places where there is a frame, drywall is attached to it. In the end it turns out very reliable design, the main thing is to monitor the location of the sheets using a level;
The last step is to putty the structure; there are a few simple recommendations: corners must be used; at the joints, the plane can be strengthened using a sickle mesh of the required width. It is important to make the plane level so that the joint between the plaster and the plaster is not visible at all.

Option 4 – construction of an arch

All three of the above options differed in implementation technology and design, but all of them were a straight-sided opening of the required size. But if you decide to make an arch, then this section will help you get the job done. This technology is suitable for all the above cases.

I will not talk about the entire working process, but will dwell in detail only on the curved part. This is the most difficult element that you should understand as best as possible.

The workflow consists of the following steps:

First of all, you need to figure out what your arch will look like; the dimensions of the frame and the installation of the structure depend on what shape you choose. When you decide, you can start attaching the base for the structure; it is made from a wall profile and is located on the top and side so as not to interfere with the curved elements that will be installed later;
Then you need to make a blank for the curved element; for this, take a guide profile and make even cuts on it opposite each other at a distance of 3-4 cm along the entire length. The profile prepared in this way can be given the required shape later;

Next, the element is bent the way we need it, it’s important to try it on ready product to the opening to control the dimensions and, if necessary, cut off the excess part. To simplify the work and improve the final result, be sure to make the second arched element in the shape of the first, and do not bend it separately, so you can get two identical parts;

The arched parts are fastened to a previously installed base; for rigidity, spacers can be installed at any angle in any place. The arched elements are connected to each other through lintels. You can also use hangers if you need to additionally secure part of the profile somewhere, it all depends on your design, it is important that in the end it turns out strong;

When the structure is secured, you can begin covering the front sides, that is, the sections of the wall at the top of the opening. Here it is very important to accurately cut out the oval side, since it will be very difficult to remove it with putty later. You must transfer the exact curve to the material and cut it out, after which the sheet is fastened with self-tapping screws, you need everything to match as best as possible;

First you need to cut a strip of drywall to the required length, everything is simple: we measure the width and length of the curved part using a tape measure and transfer these indicators to the material;
Using a special needle roller, you need to make holes in the back side of the drywall; it can be easily identified by the inscriptions. You just need to go through this device, pressing it well, you shouldn’t be too zealous, otherwise you may ruin the piece and have to cut off another one;

The punched surface is moistened with water and left for a couple of minutes, after which the material can be bent. This should be done carefully, it is important not to damage the drywall;
Fastening is done with an assistant - one person holds the bent material, and the second fixes it with self-tapping screws. After drying, the structure will become rigid;

I recommend attaching a special arched corner to the outer corners of the curved areas, and it is advisable to first cover the entire surface with fiberglass for strength.

After this, you need to carry out putty work, the end result will be durable and reliable if you follow all the recommendations described above.

People sometimes ask me, is it possible to make a door out of plasterboard? In fact, this is possible, but the reliability of such a product will not be very high; it is much more reasonable to buy a ready-made design.

It is much easier to build an opening from plasterboard than from any other material, so almost anyone who has the desire to carry out the work themselves can handle the job. The video in this article will help you understand some of the nuances even better, and if you still have questions, write them in the comments under this review.

October 22, 2016

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