Growing an orchid in glass vase and caring for her
Growing orchids in vases is one of the modern trends in interior design. The Vanda orchid is considered the most suitable variety for this purpose. She is unpretentious in care. The most commonly used is Vanda blue.
Rules for choosing a vessel
Flower growth is largely influenced by the shape of the vase. Vessels with wide bases, but narrowed at the top, have proven themselves best.
Source: Depositphotos
Orchid in a vase - original design interior
If you plant a flower in tall vessels or cylindrical vases, it will not only be inconvenient, but also dangerous:
- the foliage of the plant is constantly collected, this can damage it;
- the air in such a vessel does not circulate, the humidity increases, and as a result, a fungus may appear that will destroy the flower.
Which vases should you give preference to? Ideal option vessels will become with a widened base, but narrower at the top. Visually they resemble a cognac glass.
Important: foliage and flowers should be located above the edges of the vessel.
Caring for orchids in glass vases
Particular attention is paid to watering: you can’t just pour water into the vase, excess water will quickly destroy the roots. Excess water from the vase should be drained after about half an hour, this time is enough for the roots to be saturated with moisture. The water needs to stand for at least a day or take a mixture of equal parts ordinary water and distilled.
The frequency of watering is affected by the air temperature in the room: the cooler it is, the less often you need to water, and vice versa.
If an orchid grows without a substrate, it is immersed in warm water for watering.
Orchid is a plant sensitive to humidity levels. Optimal level Air humidity is 60%, so it is advisable to install an air humidifier with a timer in the room.
In order for a flower to grow well, develop and bloom actively, it needs to be fed regularly. To do this, special fertilizers must be added to the water intended for irrigation.
The orchid needs periodic spraying from a regular spray bottle. IN summer time it should be done up to 3 times a day.
The best time for the procedure is the morning, then the leaves of the plant will have time to dry before the evening.
The flower loves good lighting, but does not tolerate direct sunlight. Ideal place for placing a flowerpot - windows facing south side. With a lack of light, the plant may suffer from fungal infections.
An orchid in a vase needs full care, no different from classical care. And, if you create all the conditions for a flower, it will bloom up to 4 times a year.
The Vanda orchid is one of the most popular epiphytes (plants that grow on other plants, but do not receive nutrients from them) that are grown at home. This is truly a royal flower, luxurious and delicate.
But to get healthy and timely flowering plant, you will have to try, as this orchid is quite capricious and whimsical. If you provide the van with decent care, she will be a joy abundant flowering. And experts know how to get such a result.
This flower grows in Indian, Chinese, and Thai territories, and there are many varieties of the Vanda orchid. And the rich color variety cannot but amaze: blue, reddish-violet, pink shades. Thanks to natural selection and artificial improvement of the species, today there are many hybrid flowers, and the main direction of flower growers’ work is to obtain a miniature orchid variety.
Despite the abundance of varieties, the blue orchid Vanda and Sandler are usually grown at home. They were taken as the basis for the breeding of almost all hybrid plants. Wanda blue color was discovered in tropical forests only in the 30s of the 19th century, high above sea level.
It is characterized by a strong, erect stem, reaching a meter in length, covered with leaves, quite hard, with a rich dark green color. The inflorescences are located on the sides of the stem, their length often exceeds half a meter. Each inflorescence consists of about two dozen large flowers of a lavender-blue hue. The flowering period of the blue orchid occurs in autumn-winter.
The second species is Vanda Sanderiana, which grows in forests with a warm, rainy climate. The plant is distinguished by long leaves that emerge from the axils above the leaves. The inflorescences of this orchid form a cluster of pinkish-white, delicate flowers, quite large in diameter. Vanda Sanderiana usually begins to bloom in the fall. With the beginning of selection, orchids of various, sometimes quite extravagant colors appeared.
Taking care of the beautiful Wanda
The Vanda orchid, whose home care meets its needs, pleases its “fans” with abundant and long flowering. But in order to achieve this, you need to know what this flower loves and what affects it negatively. It is necessary to pay attention to the following aspects:
- Temperature.
First of all, Wanda prefers coolness and the optimal temperature for winter is 15-17 degrees. But even in the warmth, subject to a number of rules, the flower feels good. But in summer the heat is undesirable, the maximum temperature is +25 degrees. - Lighting.
After temperature regime, this is an equally important factor. Wanda needs light, but when exposed to direct sunlight, she can quickly burn. Therefore, the flower should sunbathe only in the morning and evening. To obtain luxurious flowering, experts recommend that the Vanda orchid at home in the fall and spring receive sufficient additional lighting of artificial origin. This will improve plant growth and flowering process. - Humidity.
If we talk about optimal indicators, they are within the range of 68.7-72%. Unlike other varieties of epiphytes, Vanda is not grown in a container with water, but using baskets that are suspended. To maintain the required level of moisture, the aerial root system must be constantly sprayed using softened water. In this case, it will require mandatory boiling.
These are three basic principles, following which you can grow an excellent plant.
How to replant a flower correctly?
Reproduction of a plant of this species occurs by separating aerial roots. In addition, you can use a cutting from the top or a shoot growing on the side of the stem.
An adult orchid should be replanted when its rhizome becomes cramped in the container or growth slows down. Wanda usually requires 3-4 replantations per year. In this case, the pot or other container selected is not very voluminous, since the flower will grow slower in it.
In order to grow healthy plant, you need to purchase special soil, or prepare soil mixtures with your own hands. To do this you will need the following components:
- pine bark (it is broken into large pieces) – 50%;
- obsidian hydroxide (called perlite) or foam chips - 25%;
- peat – 12.5%
- birch charcoal – 12.5%.
The flower does not require trimming part of the stem. When it stretches, you can cut off its top and replant it in prepared soil. For successful growth it is required that planting material had several (at least 3) healthy roots.
The sections are sprinkled with crushed coal. Over time, “babies” appear in Wanda’s lower half. In addition, to propagate a flower, you can also use daughter plants that form in the leaf axils. They should be carefully separated and placed in another container.
What container is suitable for planting Vanda orchid?
The rules of care also apply to the selection of a suitable container, since not every container is suitable for an orchid. Wanda feels most comfortable in hanging basket or a pot with side holes into which the rhizome penetrates.
Today in various retail outlets It is increasingly possible to find the beautiful Wanda arranged in a vase. Moreover, it does not contain any soil mixture or substrate. Vanda in glass is often purchased as a gift. For a flower, you can choose a container made of this material of any shape. But it is worth considering that a Vanda orchid in a glass vase, sold closed, is prone to rapid death.
How to grow vanda in glass?
Such a capricious flower even in glass requires special care. It should be inspected regularly and damaged areas should be removed. If you carefully care for an orchid, it becomes not just a houseplant, but stylish element interior
The most suitable is a vase with a wide base. It is worth taking care that the orchid is not constantly in water, otherwise it may rot and eventually die. Therefore, dry cultivation is more suitable for the flower.
The orchid is periodically removed from the container and placed in water with useful components dissolved in it. Afterwards, the beauty needs to be dried and returned to its place. The Vanda orchid lives longest in a vase in a situation where its green parts are not behind glass walls, but outside.
What is Wanda's illness?
Diseases that affect indoor plants do not bypass this exotic flower. Excessive soil or air moisture leads to the development of “spotting”. In a sick flower, warty spots appear at the bottom of the leaves.
Often, orchid disease is caused by fungi that grow well in warm and humid conditions. They form round black spots on the upper part of the leaf. To rid Vanda of spotting, it is necessary to take care of more favorable conditions for its growth.
You can protect the flower during planting by treating the soil with disinfectants. To do this, you can add antifungal drugs to the water. Excessive substrate moisture can lead to rotting of the plant - both the stem and the root system. Such processes are significantly enhanced in cool weather or when unsuitable containers are used as containers.
If individual parts of the plant become softened and turn black, then we can expect its rapid yellowing and death. In this case, disinfecting the substrate will help, as well as watering the orchid with water with dissolved Maxim fungicidal agent. In addition, various pests also “love” the orchid:
Growing a Vanda orchid is not an easy task. First of all, you need to have a love for floriculture and be able to take care of your charges, taking into account their needs. And then the result can exceed all expectations!
Often in flower shops there are vandas of enormous size, with a lush beard of roots and bright, large flowers behind the glass of a tall vase.
plants in this form have their own subtleties, advantages and disadvantages, which you need to know and take into account.
Otherwise, out of ignorance, an inexperienced gardener may make a number of mistakes, the consequences of which will contribute to the gradual depletion of the plant and its death. Next we will tell you how to grow in transparent vases.
Although it looks very elegant in this form, such content is very conditionally suitable for him. The reason is that in the flask for clear glass Only the roots of the plant should be present, while the beard should be free to be in space.
Tall vases are not suitable for these purposes.– the plant should not be completely contained in a container, otherwise it suffers from stuffiness, and there is also an increased risk of rotting.
When grown in this way, the orchid suffers from a lack of air.
Microclimate
As already mentioned, tall ones made of glass are not suitable for a vanda, but wide ones, in the shape of glasses, are suitable. The size should be sufficient for the roots to fit freely inside. The plant itself should be on the surface from the base of the rosette, flush with the edges of the vase, and not buried inside. You can secure it in this position with wire.
Attention! You can grow vanda in a plastic container. A large bottle with the top cut off will do. The use of plastic eliminates the disadvantages of glass - fragility and low thermal conductivity.
Features of the development and growth of plants without soil
– this is monopodial, less often a lithophyte, and she feels great with bare roots without soil. Usually it has a powerful system of aerial, velamen-covered, gray-green roots. In nature, it clings to them, holding onto a support.
It should be understood that vandas are tropical plants and they live in a very humid climate, obtaining moisture and nutrition with all parts of their body from precipitation and air.
IN room conditions the plant should recreate similar conditions. And if the flask takes care of the humid microclimate necessary for aerial roots, then the gardener Vanda will have to grow a little more often than other orchids.
Basic principles of care
Picking an orchid will not bring any trouble even to a novice gardener. It is enough to follow simple rules.
Watering
An orchid that grows in a vase is very simple. Carefully, along the wall, like beer in a glass, pour water into the flask Thus, so that all the roots are immersed. After 30-45 minutes the same carefully drain the water.
Advice! Make sure that no water remains in the vase.
So Vanda approximately 2 times a week in warm weather. If it is cloudy and cool - once a week. On especially hot summer days, watering can be done every other day or daily. The water should be warm, such a temperature that it is pleasant for the hands - approximately 30-36 ° C.
Watering an orchid in a flowerpot (photo of the immersion method).
Use soft water, either boiled or settled. Plants also respond well to showering. need it in the morning so that the plant can dry out by evening.
Be careful with glassware. A wet surface may slip and the glass orchid pot may fall out of your hands, breaking.
Feeding
Vandas are one of those orchids that are most demanding. During the period when the plant gains green mass and active vegetation feed Vanda once a week with liquid mineral fertilizers
for orchids in half or quarter the concentration indicated on the packaging or instructions.
Before dipping Vanda roots in nutrient solution, they must be moistened with plain water. This should be done so as not to burn the tender roots. Root feeding can be alternated with leaf feeding from a spray bottle.
Important! When the plant is at rest, fertilizing it is strictly not recommended.
Prevention of possible diseases
The best prevention is maintaining plant hygiene and maintaining it in acceptable conditions. Vandas are very light-loving orchids and there is not enough light in winter time without a dormant period, they greatly deplete the plant. The result is fungal infections.
As a result improper wateringVandas often have . If the rot has spread to the trunk of the plant, it will no longer be possible to save it. Fungicides and antibiotics will help fight rot. Use insecticides against insects. Sometimes vanda roots stick to the walls of the vase, so Be careful when removing the plant from the container.
Improper care can lead to rotting of the leaves and the entire plant.
The influence of temperature on the frequency of watering a plant
As already noted above, You need to water the vanda carefully to prevent rotting:
- at temperatures below 16-18 °C, Vanda slows down life processes, so you need to water it about once a week;
- if the temperature is higher - up to 25-26 °C, water twice a week;
- if the thermometer shows more than 26-28 °C, in hot weather you need to water every other day, or in small portions every day.
It would be useful for a vanda to be placed on a balcony in the summer, when the night temperature is guaranteed not to drop below 15 °C.
What to do if the root system is very weak?
You can help the plant grow a lush root system by using the instructions root or its analogues.
Ventilation, airing the plant
Although Vanda comes from the tropics, she prefers the air to be fresh. That's why It is necessary to periodically ventilate the plant.
It must be placed in the flask so that air can circulate freely and get inside.
The size of the container containing vanda must be sufficient to the roots were freely placed inside.
Disinfection of containers
Unfortunately, over time, the inside of a glass vase becomes covered with a layer of algae or a coating of salts. That's why the flask will have to be washed constantly. You can disinfect it with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. The plant, of course, should be removed from the vase during this procedure.
Useful videos
Watch a video about caring for orchids in glass vases:
The following video demonstrates how to water orchids in glass:
The video below will tell you about planting an orchid in a glass pot:
Video tips for caring for vanda in glass:
Conclusion
There are actually a lot of ways to cultivate orchids, and growing in glass is just one way, not the only one applicable. The plant will feel good and completely bare roots. Here the choice is up to the orchidist. Care for your orchids properly and enjoy them.
In contact with
It is quite possible to grow an orchid without soil only if the roots of the flower are accustomed to a constant humid environment.
After all, the tree bark and other additional components play a secondary role, as they are necessary to support the orchid. But if you resort to using a skewer or something else, then there is no need for a soil mixture.
In winter, an orchid grown without soil needs to be watered less often.(about how to care for an orchid in autumn-winter period, you can find out). And in the spring, when the flower begins to actively grow, increase the frequency of moisturizing. In addition, it is important to monitor the lighting.
For orchids indoors, any window is suitable, except the south one, since direct sunlight is destructive for phalaenopsis (read more about where it is better to place an orchid and where not to keep a flower).
Advantages and disadvantages
Growing an orchid without soil has the following advantages:
When growing orchids it is used open system automatic type, thereby reducing the time spent caring for the flower.
Only it is important not to forget to add water from the irrigation system when necessary.
Thanks to this method, the orchid will no longer need watering for 2 weeks, and it will not harm it in any way.
As for the disadvantages of the method, there is only one - it is difficult to care for. Because of this, he begins to suffer appearance the flower, as its leaves turn yellow and fall off, rots root system.
What is used instead of soil?
The orchid feels great even not in soil saturated with humus, but on the trunks, branches, and roots of some tree. The components necessary for flower development are not obtained from the soil.. The atmosphere remains the source of nutrition.
An orchid needs soil only so that it can somehow gain a foothold and stay in a certain area. So when choosing components to be used instead of soil, you need to take into account their permeability to moisture and air.
In most cases, the main component for a homemade soil mixture is tree bark. It can be torn off with my own hands or purchase at a specialty store. Most often, gardeners choose pine bark, although oak bark is excellent, coniferous species. To assemble it, you will have to use sawn logs or dead wood.
To ensure the safety of the plant and protect it from pests and bacteria, pieces of bark must be cleaned from the softened area and dried thoroughly.
In addition to bark, flower growers actively use sphagnum moss as soil. Its main purpose is to make the soil loose, retain moisture without compacting the soil, absorb harmful salts and have a bactericidal effect.
In addition to tree bark and moss, expanded clay and activated carbon, which also has disinfectant properties, are suitable for orchids.
We invite you to watch a video about the types of soil for growing orchids:
In what container should the plant be kept?
When growing an orchid without soil, the hardest part is choosing the right pot. For this plant, it is worth choosing a container of this type and structure so that the flower has a place to develop, does not dry out and is not subject to the harmful effects of dry air in the room where the plant is kept. When choosing a pot for growing without soil, You should give preference to glass vases or plastic and ceramic containers. In addition, they must meet the following criteria:
- Containers must have water drainage.
- The size of the pot and the size of the plant should match each other.
- The volume of the container should be such that the root system of the plant can be located there freely and does not touch the walls.
We invite you to watch a video about choosing a container when growing an orchid in an open system:
Difference in cultivation
Using this method of growing orchids, you need to take a more careful and responsible approach to the care process.
Unlike the traditional method, in this case there is no need to select soil or prepare it yourself, which reduces time and money. But there are more stringent requirements for growing conditions: suitable humidity, timeliness.
And the most important difference is that an orchid grown in soil gets sick much less often than one for which the soil mixture is not used.
We invite you to watch a video about the difference and open systems:
How to properly care?
Such interesting way Growing an orchid requires more careful care of the plant, which consists of the following:
- Avoid high humidity in the room where the flower is located. It can withstand short droughts much more easily.
To control the level of humidity, it is necessary to grow the orchid in a container with transparent walls. Then it will be possible to visually determine whether the orchid without soil needs watering.
- Every day, apply soft water to the roots and above-ground parts of the plant using a spray bottle. This will allow you to achieve the required level of humidity.
- Lighting is no less important for the growth and development of a flower. Daylight hours should be 10 hours. Sun rays can be seen artificial lighting using fluorescent lamps.
- During the day it should be between 18-27 degrees, and at night - 13-24 degrees.
Difficulties
Any difficulties may arise if you do not follow the rules for caring for your orchid. The most common problem remains related to the desire sheet plate, causing the leaves to simply fall off. But it's one thing when it natural process and old leaves fall off, but this can happen to young ones for the following reasons:
- waterlogging– along with the yellow leaves, the process of rotting of the root system occurs;
I have 3 Phalaenopsis plants, they bloom non-stop, the flowers on the branches bloom for 6-7 months, they just begin to fade and a new arrow appears.
In general, Phalaenopsis is not an orchid. pure form, this is a hybrid, but very unpretentious.
Watering is carried out by soaking the substrate by completely immersing the entire pot in water for 20-30 minutes once every 3-4 weeks, but counting weeks is sometimes difficult and in the daily hassle everything is forgotten, and since I am never an exception, I will share my experience how Phalaenopsis can create conditions for healthy growth and regular flowering and make us happy.
You will need:
expanded clay (round pumice)
large glass container/vase (the diameter should be sufficient so that the Phalaenopsis leaves are not crowded // the height is approximately 2/3 of the total height of the plant along with a transparent pot - I just have cylindrical containers)
settled water
It is advisable to rinse the expanded clay well with water and pour boiling water over it, let it cool until room temperature, carefully pour into a glass vase to a height of approximately 15 cm, pour water to 2/3 of the height of the expanded clay (10 cm), i.e. Water should not cover the expanded clay. Now you can put Phalaenopsis itself on expanded clay.
Expanded clay has a very big square surface due to its porous structure and it actively evaporates moisture, thus creating an individual humid microclimate inside the vase, which reduces the hassle of caring for it. With such a mini-greenhouse in a vase with expanded clay, you will need to soak the pot no more than once a year, but water must be added to the expanded clay as it evaporates, however, it does not evaporate quickly and you can always see how much water there is.
Why choose a glass vase? - the fact is that Phalaenopsis inherits orchids, which receive nutrition and moisture from the air through leaves and aerial roots, so it is better not to hide the roots, including from light. In addition, a transparent pot allows not only the roots to develop better, but also the owners to monitor the condition of the roots.
There is one aesthetic “but”: over time, algae grows in the expanded clay**, and it must either be replaced with a new one or washed. I usually just rinse, then pour boiling water over it and leave it until it cools down, wash the vases, and soak the substrate - I do this procedure once every 6 months.
**the appearance of green algae on the inner walls of the pot or even on the roots visible through the walls of the pot does not harm the plant, on the contrary, through algae nutrition improves, since when decomposing, dying algae provide nutrition to the Phalaenopsis itself.
When Phalaenopsis is about to shed flowers or has just recently dropped flowers, then it should be exposed to the sun for several hours, or placed on a window where the sun is only in the morning or only in the evening (daytime sun can leave severe burns on the leaves) - this way Phalaenopsis will give a new one faster the arrow and it will bloom.
If the old arrow does not dry out on its own after the flowers fall**, then you need to count 3 segments from the base and cut just above the third - this arrow may subsequently release an additional branch with flowers from one axil of the segment or form a “baby” (small Phalaenopsis) on the segment.
**often pink species old arrows do not dry out for a long time and subsequently produce new shoots with buds and bloom again on old peduncles, while white peduncles often dry out along the entire length almost immediately after the flowers wither
Orchids and their hybrids are fed by wiping the leaves with a solution of water and special fertilizers for them; they should always be fed when Phalaenopsis produces a new peduncle and during the flowering process (I feed almost without pauses, because they bloom constantly).
Humidifiers that produce cold steam can act like a frost burn on flowers;
these should be placed no closer than 1.5 meters from the flowers;
I have passive evaporators that simply hang on batteries; in winter I often have to add water, in summer less often
In the future, cut off the arrow when it dries out on its own.
in principle, the leaves of orchids can die off on their own, but the death is uniform, the leaf first lightens slightly, gradually withers and turns yellow, then dries up, and this is always one of the two lowest leaves (the lower the leaf, the older it is, young ones grow from the center , and flower stalks grow between the leaves)
orchids in nature grow in the shade, it is better to choose a place where there will be enough light, but there is no direct sun, and in order for the peduncle to grow faster, you need to place it in the sun for literally 1-2 hours a day, until the bud with the peduncle hatches, as the bud hatches , then put it in its usual place
if it is difficult to find a place that is not sunny, then you can glue a sheet of wax paper or tracing paper to the glass, another simple way is a simple transparent plastic bag - just wipe the glass with a wet cloth and apply a piece of polyethylene to the glass and it will stick itself, or you can also look at a soft transparent light-scattering PVC film, they come with different embossing (frosty pattern, ornaments, floral, imitation drops, etc.), you can choose a very beautiful one that will not spoil the interior and the flowers can even stand on sunny side without fear of getting burned
There is no need to replant the orchid, i.e. That plastic transparent pot doesn’t need to be changed (if the phalaenopsis is still in it), just put the pot in a vase with expanded clay, and even a flowering one can be placed in such a vase; this does not injure the plant in any way
if it has already been replanted, then it is advisable to choose a transparent pot and you can also replant flowering ones if you do it carefully;
There are often problems with finding transparent pots, then you can try to look for any transparent plastic container**, drill in the bottom or burn 6-8 holes the size of a 1-kopeck coin with a soldering iron - large holes needed for soaking excess moisture completely and easily merged, and at the same time that expanded clay could easily penetrate through them wet air;
** Instead of a pot, you can use, for example, kitchen containers made of food-grade polyethylene or other plastic for broth in the shape of a glass)
the lack of soil must be compensated for with sphagnum or special soil for orchids (sold in gardening/floriculture stores)
glass vases size:
height 45 cm, diameter 20
height can be +/- 10 cm, and diameter from 19 and wider
1. here all three are on the window, the window is north-northeast, the sun appears only before 9-10 in the morning with oblique rays; To force the flower stalks, in the evening I move them to a south-south-east window in the evening sun (after 16 hours) - it no longer burns, but is enough to force the flower stalks:
The leftmost phalaenopsis is the oldest, it is already 3.5 years old, there are usually from 18 to 27 flowers on an independent branch, the peduncle can be very heavy and has to be supported on 2 supports (it is very convenient to use special crabs, or you can use miniature children’s ones), in this moment on the peduncle 21 flowers have opened and 2 more are about to open at the tip of the peduncle, bloomed back in January;
in the foreground you can see a cut peduncle, but it does not dry out and now there is a shoot that will have flowers, but on old flower stalks the shoot is shorter and there are usually no more than 8-10 flowers;
I replanted it when it was already blooming, around February, the plastic pot was actually a bucket made of felt-tip pens;
- in the middle the youngest one, given as a gift a month ago;
- the rightmost white one is about 1.5 years old, the last flowering was from the end of August last year to the end of March this year, a new arrow of the peduncle is visible in the foreground near the support; this white Phalaenopsis produces slightly different shaped and larger flowers than pink ones when white blooms, then it seems that large white butterflies are sitting densely on the branch;
2. here you can see the appearance of green algae on the expanded clay and on the inner walls of the plastic pot itself 
Addition:
Perspiration on the walls inside a plastic pot with soil is normal and even good, the main thing is that the pot itself does not stand directly in the water;
- when using a glass vase with expanded clay, there is no problem leaving the flowers at home for 2-4 weeks without worrying about them dying from underwatering;
-at good care Phalaenopsis live for a very long time, subsequently, as the pot with the substrate increases, the glass vase may become too small, but by that time the root system and the number of leaves will have a very large volume and, in principle, it can feel good even without such a glass vase, but it will need to be sprayed at least once a day with settled water from a spray bottle (my friend has phalaenopsis that are already 15-16 years old, this is quite large plants with huge leaves almost like lapuh, they bloom just as beautifully);
-they may like it better in the kitchen, since the air there is always a little more humid and warmer.
You don’t need to look for a special pot, a transparent bucket, a transparent container for food, etc., it shouldn’t be very loose, but a narrow one is also bad, don’t sprinkle the top roots with soil, they should be on the surface
when you select a container to use as a pot, try to carefully remove it from the old one along with the soil, do not shake off the soil, add a little soil to the bottom of the new one, then place the orchid, and add new soil around the edges
the most Bottom part the lower leaves should be at the level of the top edge of the pot or a little higher, i.e. leaves should not be in the ground at all
hybrids are quite stable and unpretentious, and if the conditions are created, they will delight you with their flowering very often, since they are very responsive to proper care, and the system that I proposed to you is not too troublesome, and you can go on vacation without much worry
UPD: let me remind you once again, when you select a container as a pot, do not forget to drill or burn large holes in it - this is very important for moisture circulation and for root breathing
By the way, I highly recommend this site http://www.greeninfo.ru/ - they give great tips and help solve problems related to growing indoor plants
They have a huge database of indoor plants, you can always ask a question on their forum (registration is required), read previous recommendations, etc.
sometimes they send newsletters about flower exhibitions - that’s also interesting, but unfortunately I visit Russia no more than once a year, and I don’t get to see them all
At exhibitions you can purchase plants and also receive recommendations for care