Bell pepper is unpretentious plant, which grows in southern latitudes without any problems. Difficulties in growing this crop in conditions middle zone and to the north are associated with the long growing season of the plant. If you know how to properly plant pepper seedlings, you can get a bountiful harvest not only in a greenhouse, but also in open ground.
Even the earliest ripening variety bell pepper the growing season is up to 140 days, and the time from germination to harvest ripening is at least 90 days. Plus, the germination time of seeds ranges from 10 days to 1 month.
Thus, if you have seeds of an early or mid-season variety, then you should sow bell pepper seedlings no later than mid-February ( northern regions), beginning of March (middle band).
Germination rate of bell pepper seeds depending on air temperature:
- 26-28 ºC – 8-10 days;
- 20-24 ºC – 13-17 days;
- 18-20 ºC – 18-20 days;
- 14-15 ºC – up to 1 month;
You can speed up the process of seed germination by pre-soaking and preparing them.
Seed preparation
Preparing seeds for sowing consists of disinfecting, stimulating and soaking them.
Before starting preparation, you should discard low-weight seeds, since they will grow into weak plants or they will not sprout at all. To do this, the existing seed material is poured into water. After a few minutes, all the seeds that remain on the surface of the water are discarded. Work continues with sunken, which means full-weight, seed material.
Disinfection of seed material is carried out with a solution of potassium permanganate (in common parlance, potassium permanganate). To do this, dilute a slightly pink solution into which the seeds are immersed for a couple of hours. A non-chemical method of disinfection is heating in hot water(50 ºC) for 20 minutes. After which the seeds are immediately cooled in cold water.
Stimulation and feeding are carried out by special means Epin type (Humate, Zircon). The existing drug is dissolved in water strictly according to the instructions, since an overdose is extremely harmful. The seeds of bell pepper, which were removed from the potassium permanganate solution, are transferred into the resulting solution. The material is kept in the “feeding” for 20-30 minutes. Then they are washed and soaked for germination.
It is convenient to carry out germination between two cotton pads. To do this, the seeds are laid out on the surface of a disk and covered with another one. The top disk can be signed with a ballpoint pen if you want to plant several varieties of peppers. Discs should be wetted sparingly. Seeds that are completely flooded will “suffocate” and die.
As soon as the peppers hatch, they need to be planted in the ground. You should not allow a visible sprout - it will easily break off during sowing. You can skip the germination stage, but this will slightly delay the germination time.
Note! Seeds that are pre-treated by the manufacturer do not require pre-sowing manipulations. On a bag of this seed material it says “Do not soak!” Follow this instruction - soaking such seeds will damage the nutritional and protective capsule.
Preparing the soil for sowing seedlings
sow Bell pepper can be used in “purchased” soil, in peat tablets or in self-prepared soil. Experienced gardeners They believe that at least 50% of the land for seedlings should come from their own garden. This is explained by the fact that the plant “gets used to extracting” food from a certain soil mixture. A radical change of soil when planting seedlings from “purchased” soil into the garden delays the development of the plant for a long time.
Requirements for seedling soil:
- neutral or slightly acidic environment;
- sufficient organic content for “looseness” and moisture retention;
- sufficient nutrient content;
It is not difficult to create such a soil mixture. Have to take:
- two parts of garden land;
- one part of peat or special soil for seedlings;
- one part of humus, compost or top layer (10 cm) of meadow soil;
To increase nutritional value and adjust acidity, add the following to 10 liters of soil:
- stove ash (who has it) - a handful;
- lime (for those who don’t have ash) - a handful;
- double superphosphate - 2 matchboxes;
It is better to fertilize with potassium and nitrogen fertilizers later, when watering the seedlings.
Note! The prepared soil mixture needs to be spilled with a weak solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection. The second way to kill pathogens in garden soil is to preheat it to 60 ºC.
Methods for sowing pepper seedlings
There are several ways to plant sweet pepper seedlings:
- Classic - peppers are sown in a “common” container and subsequently planted in a larger container or individual pots.
- In ready-made cassettes, 1-2 seeds are sown without picking.
- In peat tablets, 1 seed is sown without picking.
- In twists - in rolls from toilet paper followed by planting young shoots in large containers or separate pots.
Note! The best results are obtained by growing bell pepper seedlings without picking, planting them in separate containers. Peppers, unlike tomatoes, do not tolerate transplantation well, get sick for a long time and are stunted in growth.
Growing seedlings in peat tablets
For germinating peppers, tablets with a diameter of 3-4 cm are suitable. They are placed on the bottom of a large container and filled with water. As soon as the tablets stop absorbing water, the excess is poured out.
A seed is placed in the center of the formed cylinder (and it “grows” when it swells) to a depth of about 0.5 cm. The container is placed in a warm place. To preserve moisture, the top is covered with cling film or polyethylene.
The mini greenhouse should be ventilated at least 1 hour a day. Watering is carried out using the bottom method as the peat dries. After the sprouts appear, the cylinders are moved to separate containers with prepared soil mixture.
The mesh that envelops the peat cylinder prevents the lump from disintegrating and root system pepper is not injured. Further care consists of timely watering and lighting.
Note! If you do not want to transfer the seedlings into pots, then you should buy tablets with a diameter of 7 cm. In such cylinders, the pepper will not need additional soil.
Growing seedlings in cassettes
Growing seedlings in cassettes or individual pots with a volume of 250-500 ml produces high-quality seedlings. You can sow sprouted seeds one at a time; dry seeds are better, two in one container, followed by removal of the weaker plant. The seed is buried 1 cm into the soil and watered.
Cassettes are placed on a south or west window, or under a lamp. It is important that the air temperature is not lower than 25 ºC. As the seedlings grow, soil is added to the pot. Watering in cassettes is carried out using the bottom method - water is poured into the pan. Pots with seedlings are usually watered in the classic way.
Classic home method of growing seedlings
The “old-fashioned” method of growing pepper seedlings at home has a right to exist and even has some advantages:
- When sowing in a common container, seed germination is not particularly important.
- It is convenient to sow in a small container.
- When picking seedlings, weak plants are discarded.
- If you follow the timing and agricultural techniques of diving, the pepper will tolerate it relatively well.
- Planting in the “native” soil will prevent the plants from getting sick and taking a long time to get used to the new soil after planting in the greenhouse.
To sow, take a small container with soil and sow the seeds densely to a depth of 0.5 cm. Water the ground, cover the top with film and place the container in a warm place. After the sprouts appear for a day (two), the seedlings are transferred to warm window. As soon as the sprouts turn dark green, the first real leaf hatches - they need to be picked.
The picking box (if there are no separate containers, which is preferable) should be at least 12-15 cm deep. The seedlings are watered several hours before transplanting. Seedlings are planted at a distance of 10-15 cm, preferably in a checkerboard pattern.
Twist landing (Moscow style)
Sowing seeds for germination between ribbons of toilet paper began not so long ago. There are supporters and opponents this method. The main advantage of this method of seed germination is its compactness.
The technology is as follows:
- Place a cellophane tape on the table (it is convenient to use a food bag cut lengthwise).
- Lay toilet paper on top and spray it with water from a hand sprayer (important! the edges of the paper and cellophane must match).
- Seeds are placed on a strip of cheap (thicker and coarser) toilet paper at a distance of 2-3 cm from each other and from the top edge of the paper at the same distance
- Cover the seeds with a layer of paper and moisten well.
- Roll into a weak roll, effortlessly.
- Place the twist in a container with a little water poured into the bottom.
- Remove the structure to a warm place.
As soon as the sprouts appear, the twist is transferred to a lighted place. Planting seedlings in the ground is carried out with two developed cotyledon leaves. The roll is unrolled and cut with scissors into separate fragments with sprouts. The seedlings are planted in a permanent container, where they will develop before being planted in the garden.
Growing seedlings at home is not too troublesome if you have some skill. Follow the deadlines and agricultural techniques, give the seedlings light and warmth - bell peppers will delight you with a harvest until frost.
The topic of today's article is planting pepper seedlings: when to sow, how to properly plant pepper seedlings in an apartment, tips for beginning gardeners.
Pepper seedlings: when to plant?
Peppers belong to crops with a long germination period. From sowing seeds to planting young plants in the ground or greenhouse, it takes from 90 to 100 days. Seedlings of early ripening varieties reach the right size after 3 months, they can be planted when the soil warms up to 16-18 degrees.
The seedlings are moved to the greenhouse at an earlier date, and they are planted into the soil under the film a little later. Much depends on the region and specific weather conditions.
Knowing when to plant in the ground, you can accurately calculate the timing of planting pepper seedlings. In central Russia, it is better to sow seeds in early March. In warmer regions, seeds are sown starting in January and seedlings are planted in late April.
In areas with cold climates, seeds are planted in mid- or even late March.. It is better to plant late-sown plants in a heated greenhouse so that all the fruits set have time to ripen. For transplanting into a year-round greenhouse, peppers are sown twice a year, in January-February and at the end of September.
Many vegetable growers check planting dates with the lunar calendar. The optimal time for sowing pepper is when the Moon in the first phase is under the influence of Libra, Scorpio, Aries or Sagittarius. Dates shift depending on the year, see current days possible in a special calendar. It indicates the most suitable dates, as well as days on which planting should be avoided.
Appropriate The planting time is also indicated on the seed packets. Early ripening varieties with a short growing season can be sown at the end of February, late ripening varieties are sown as early as possible. Seedlings sown in January will have to be sown, since daylight hours at this time are too short for the normal development of young peppers.
Planting pepper seeds for seedlings
Before sowing pepper seeds for seedlings, you need sort out full weight seeds. You can check them by soaking them in a 3% saline solution. Seeds that have sunk to the bottom are suitable for sowing. Before planting, it is recommended to soak them in freshly squeezed aloe juice for 10-12 hours.
Individual containers should not be too spacious.
How to plant pepper seedlings correctly?
Most often, pepper seeds are sown in convenient plastic containers. They are densely filled with soil so that about 2 cm remains to the sides. With this filling, there will be no washout of soil. The soil must be compacted and spilled with a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection..
How to sow pepper seedlings? After 12 hours, grooves about 1 cm deep are made on the soil surface. The seeds are sown at a distance of 2 cm from each other, the space between the grooves is 4-5 cm. The crops are sprinkled with earth on top, lightly compacted and sprayed with warm, settled water.
To speed up germination, the container can be covered with film, glass or a damp cloth.
Sowing pepper seedlings can be done in a spacious container or in separate containers: cups, rolled pieces of thick film. Planting in individual containers eliminates subsequent picking. It is important to choose high-quality hatched seeds to avoid culling.
How to plant pepper seedlings in separate containers? When planting in cups, the soil is moistened with warm water, a hole 1-1.5 cm deep is made in it. The seed is carefully laid out and sprinkled with earth. The cups fit tightly onto the pallet.
How to sow pepper seedlings in peat tablets? Before sowing, tablets with a diameter of 3 cm are placed in a deep container and filled with warm water. After a few hours, the peat will swell greatly and increase in size, the tablets will turn into neat columns. Excess liquid is drained.
At the top of the posts there are small holes that need to be deepened and the hatched seeds placed in them. The holes are filled with crushed soil and lightly pressed down. There is no need to water the planted seeds. Peat posts are installed in Plastic container. They need to be placed tightly to prevent them from tipping over. The top of the tray is covered with a lid or film.
How to properly plant peppers for seedlings, photo:
Temperature and watering
Immediately after sowing containers or pots are placed in a warm place. The optimal temperature for germination is 27-28 degrees. Some gardeners specifically warm the soil before planting, placing it closer to the battery. A decrease in temperature delays germination and often causes seed death.
When sprouts appear on the surface of the soil, the seedlings are placed in the brightest place. It would be good if a lamp was mounted above the plantings for additional illumination. The ideal daylight hours for peppers are 12 hours. At night, plantings can be covered with an opaque cloth.
After germination, the room temperature drops to 20-25 degrees. Pepper seedlings need to be watered once every 5-6 days., first from a spray bottle and then from a watering can. The container with seedlings is periodically rotated so that the seedlings grow evenly. After the first 2 leaves appear, the plants are ready for picking.
Peppers planted in peat tablets must be moved to pre-prepared pots filled with nutrient substrate.
Seedlings planted on time grow well, not
You can get strong, healthy pepper seedlings if you grow them yourself. Novice gardeners often wonder how to grow pepper seedlings at home. Before planting, it is important to understand all the nuances: planting dates, features of seed preparation, soil selection, and care rules.
Optimal planting dates
When planning to grow pepper seedlings yourself, you first need to decide when to plant pepper seedlings. The date of sowing seeds for each variety is determined individually. It depends on:
- planned growing conditions ( open ground, greenhouse);
- precocity;
- the age at which pepper is moved into the ground;
- seed preparation.
The duration of vegetative development of peppers depends on the early maturity of the variety. If early-ripening varieties ripen 100–120 days from the moment of seed germination, then late-ripening peppers require about 150 days before fruiting begins. Respectively early varieties need to be planted a little later.
The seedlings are transferred to the main place at the age of 60–80 days. When calculating the timing of sowing seeds, add another 7–10 days for them to hatch. If you plan to grow peppers in unprotected soil, then you need to wait until the ground warms up to +10..+15 °C. Earlier planting will cause a delay in the vegetative development of the plant.
The optimal planting time is considered to be between February 20 and March 10. If the summer resident plans to plant plants in early June, then optimal time Sowing of seeds will be in March. If you plan to plant peppers in a greenhouse at the end of April, then seedlings can be planted at home in early February.
In the southern regions, agronomists advise planting seeds during the 2nd–3rd decade of February, and in the northern regions - in March.
When choosing a planting day, you should focus on the lunar calendar. The most favorable period is considered to be when the moon is in the constellation Cancer, Pisces or Scorpio. If you pre-soak the seeds, then the optimal day is selected for their first contact with water.
Favorable lunar calendar In 2018 the following dates are considered:
- January 1, 20, 21, 25, 26, 29, 30;
- February 14, 18, 21–22, 25–26;
- 1, 8–11, 20–21, 24–26, 29–31 March;
- April 9, 11, 18, 25–29.
Pros and cons of planting seeds directly in open ground
Some owners personal plots they don’t want to grow seedlings at home. They are waiting for warmer weather to immediately sow seeds in open ground. But this growing method is considered risky, because pepper is a heat-loving crop. During sudden spring frosts, plants may die.
Residents of the southern regions and the middle zone can try to grow pepper by planting the seeds directly in open ground. In the northern regions and areas related to risky farming, such an experiment is unlikely to end successfully.
Only early ripening varieties can be used; the rest will not have time to begin bearing fruit before the weather gets colder. It is recommended to plant seeds in the ground no earlier than mid-May - early June. The likelihood of frost should be minimized.
The advantages of this method of planting include the absence of the need to grow seedlings at home. Growing in open ground minimizes labor costs.
But this method also has disadvantages:
- the ability to grow only early ripening varieties;
- a high probability of plant death or development delay due to unplanned cold snap;
- The probability of full ripening of the crop before the cold snap is low, even in the south.
Gardeners are forced to constantly monitor the temperature and cover the crops with agrofibre if the temperature drops overnight.
Preparing seeds for sowing at home
Having decided on a preliminary sowing date, it is necessary to discard the seeds. They should be inspected first. All frail, damaged specimens are selected. The remaining seeds must be pickled in a 2% solution of potassium permanganate for 20 minutes and washed in cold water. Instead of potassium permanganate, some choose antifungal agents for treatment. The following fungicides are used:
- Fitosporin-M;
- Maksim;
- Vitaros.
After etching, they can be soaked in a solution of Epin or Zircon. These are plant growth stimulants that promote accelerated seed germination and activation of their protective forces. Add 2 drops of Epin to 100 ml of water. When using Zircon, dissolve 1 drop in 300 ml of water. Soak the seeds for 12-18 hours at room temperature.
When processing several varieties of pepper, which are planned to be planted separately in the future, the seeds of each type are tied in a separate gauze bag.
After completing the treatment with growth stimulants, the seeds are wrapped in damp cloth and film for 2–7 days. Do not allow the fabric and seeds to dry out. They must be at a temperature of +22…+24 °C. The hatched seeds are transplanted into the ground. When planting, you should be careful; the slightest damage to the roots will cause the death of the plant.
Rules for selecting and preparing soil for seeds
Owners of personal plots who want to get strong, healthy seedlings must approach the issue of soil preparation responsibly. It must meet the following requirements:
- absence of pests and pathogens;
- neutral or slightly acidic reaction, optimal level pH is considered 6–6.5;
- high nutrient content;
- sufficient moisture capacity;
- looseness.
You can buy ready-made soil at a specialty store or prepare it yourself. To prepare you will need:
- garden soil (2 parts);
- humus, rotted manure (1 part);
- wood ash (the amount is determined based on the fact that 1 bucket of humus requires a large handful of ash);
- sawdust (1 part);
- peat (1 part).
If there is no sawdust, they are replaced with coarse sand. Garden soil should be collected where nightshade crops (tomatoes, potatoes, eggplants, peppers) have not grown over the past 3–4 years.
Summer residents can also prepare a substrate from:
- humus (3 parts);
- peat/turf (3 parts);
- river sand (1 part);
- ash (250 g per 5 liters of prepared soil).
At self-cooking The soil mixture must be calcined in the oven or steamed in a double boiler for an hour. This is required to kill pathogenic bacteria and destroy weeds.
If it is not possible to use humus and find ash, add mineral fertilizers: ammonium nitrate, superphosphate, potassium nitrate. Potassium chloride or potassium salt should not be used; these fertilizers contain a large number of chlorine, which is harmful to the roots of young plants.
A day before planting, you can further disinfect the soil by watering it with boiling water.
Sowing pepper seeds for seedlings step by step
2.5 months before the planned date of planting seedlings, the process of sowing seeds begins. This can be done according to the following scheme.
- Drainage (expanded clay, pebbles) 1–2 cm high is placed at the bottom of pre-prepared containers, and soil is poured on top. It is best to plant seeds in separate pots or cups, 10–12 cm deep and 8–10 cm in diameter. If there are no cups, planting in a common container is allowed.
- Seeds are spread on the surface of the soil with tweezers or hands. If they are planted in a common container, then optimal distance will be 1.5–2 cm. Leave 3 cm between the grooves. individual cups You can lay out 2 seeds.
- After the process of laying out the seeds is completed, a 1–2 cm layer of soil is added on top. There is no need to compact it thoroughly, otherwise it will be difficult for the sprouts to germinate. After completion, carefully water the soil, making sure that the seeds do not wash onto the surface.
- The top of the container with soil is covered transparent material: glass, plastic film. This is necessary to create a greenhouse effect. When the first shoots appear, the lid is removed; the plants need air.
Many have appreciated the benefits of growing seeds in peat cups. When using them, worry about possible damage There are no roots when replanting. The seedlings are sent to the ground directly in cups.
Seedling care
In the conditions of an ordinary city apartment, not everyone can grow strong, unstretched seedlings. The brightest place in the apartment - the window sill - is traditionally cold, and there is not enough light in the warm corners. When growing, it is necessary to take into account the following nuances.
- After sowing the seeds, the boxes or pots are placed in a warm place. They cannot be placed on a battery. The optimal temperature for germination is considered to be +24..+26 °C. After the first shoots appear, the containers are moved to a bright, cool place. The optimal temperature is +15..+17 °C. After a few days, the temperature must be gradually increased, reaching +22..+25 °C during the day and +20 °C at night.
Suitable conditions can be created on the windowsill of a city apartment. To do this, the window is fenced off from the heat coming from the battery and from the apartment thermal insulation material(a kind of box is made with one wall covering the entire window sill). Gradually, the insulation is removed, and the air temperature on the windowsill rises.
- The emerging seedlings must be carefully watered with warm water ( optimal temperature+30 °C). The root system of sprouted plants is weak, so they can simply be washed out of the soil with strong pressure. Excess moisture for seedlings is as harmful as its deficiency. If there is insufficient watering, the seedlings will begin to wither, and if there is too much watering, a black leg will appear. You can save the plants if you sprinkle the soil on top with calcined sand or dust it with ash.
- If the daylight hours are short or the weather is cloudy outside, the seedlings will have to be supplemented with light. Otherwise, it will begin to stretch.
- It is important to ensure good ventilation of plants, but they do not like drafts.
- To get strong seedlings, you need to fertilize them. The development of the root system is promoted by fertilizing with sodium humate: 25 ml of the drug is diluted in 10 liters of water. When 2–4 true leaves appear, the pepper is fertilized with a mixture of potassium sulfate, urea (10 g each), superphosphate (30 g). This amount is dissolved in 5 liters of water. A solution is prepared on the basis that 1 liter of the mixture is needed to water 10 plants.
The second feeding is carried out 2-3 weeks after the first. The seedlings must grow at least 5 leaves. The same fertilizers are used, only their concentration is doubled.
You can use ready-made fertilizers: Krepysh, Agricola, Mortar, Fertika Lux.
Only proper care will make it possible to obtain healthy seedlings that will bear fruit well.
Picking - is it necessary or not, how to do without it, how to do it correctly
Pick the pepper when it has formed 2 true leaves. This usually happens 3–4 weeks after germination. When transplanting, young plants can be buried no more than 0.5 cm.
Many agronomists advise immediately planting seeds in large pots to avoid picking peppers. The plant does not tolerate this procedure well. If the roots are damaged, the period of vegetation development is extended by 1–2 weeks.
But if the seeds were planted in a common container, then picking is indispensable. Plants begin to shade each other, and this negatively affects their growth and development. Picking is also needed to reduce the risk of developing root rot.
You can minimize the likelihood of damage to the roots if you remove several plants at the same time with a lump of earth. This must be done after abundant watering of the soil. The gardener places a lump of earth with plants on a horizontal surface and carefully separates each plant.
Dive the peppers into pots with a volume of about 150 ml. It will be easier for seedlings to take root in them. The hole in the pots is made such that the roots can fit freely. After moving the plants, they are sprinkled with soil, lightly compacted and watered.
Planting peppers in open ground
After 60–80 days of vegetative development, the seedlings can be transplanted into open ground. The replanting process begins at the stage of the first buds and 7–8 true leaves, while the height of the plants should be at least 20–25 cm. Only hardened seedlings are allowed to be transplanted into open ground. She must be accustomed to low temperatures, direct sunlight and wind.
When transplanting into open ground, pay attention to the temperature of the soil and air. The earth should be warmed up to +10 °C. It is unacceptable that the air temperature at night drops below +12..+14 °C.
- choose a sunny place, protected from drafts;
- the soil is first dug up to the depth of a shovel and fertilized with humus or peat;
- holes are dug for each seedling at a distance of 0.3–0.5 m from each other, the exact distance depends on the type of pepper (0.25–0.3 m can be left between low-growing determinate species, and 0.5 m is required for tall indeterminate crops –0.6 m);
- leave at least 0.5 m between rows;
- Mineral fertilizers (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) are added to each hole, and boiling water is poured into the holes;
- seedlings are moved into the ground together with the soil in which they grew and sprinkled with earth on top;
- the seedlings are watered abundantly, after absorbing the moisture, the soil is added so that the surface becomes even;
- bushes can be mulched with peat.
If all planting rules are followed, the seedlings should take root.
Video: proven growing method
Having decided to start growing seedlings yourself, you will have to deal with many nuances. It is important to properly prepare the soil and treat the seeds before planting. Grow strong seedlings it is possible, if you follow the watering rules, to create optimal conditions for growth. Air temperature, lighting, and humidity are important. We must also remember that timely application of fertilizers stimulates the growth and development of plants.
Whatever line of work you are involved in, it is important for everyone to achieve maximum success in it. IN last years often have to face various fields, including in gardening, with such a concept as favorable or unfavorable lunar days. It was introduced into our everyday life by astrologers, who claim that an enterprise started on a favorable day will be successful, and vice versa, if you start some process on an unfavorable day, the result will most likely be negative.
Recently, more and more people are turning to astrological predictions, and the point here is not in superstition, but in a scientific approach, because the influence of the phases of the Moon on all life on Earth has long been known. This also explains the reasons for the popularity of lunar sowing calendars among gardeners.
When to plant pepper seedlings in 2019
Thanks to sowing calendar you will be notified of the shifts lunar phases, which determine the size and quality of your harvest. An experienced vegetable grower or summer resident will never plant plants on a full or new moon, since during these periods all the juices collect either at the top or, respectively, in the roots or tubers, and this interferes with the normal development of plants. But if the pepper, the cultivation of seedlings of which will be discussed in our article, is planted during the waxing Moon, its growth activity will be much higher than when planting pepper during the waning Moon. So, when to sow pepper seedlings?
Favorable dates for sowing pepper seedlings in 2019 are:
- January: 9-15, 20, 24, 28, 29;
- February: 6, 7, 20-22, 25, 26;
- March: 5, 6, 10, 11, 20, 21, 24, 25;
- April: 20, 21, 27-29;
- May: 4-6, 18, 19, 27, 28.
When to plant pepper seedlings in open ground?
In June favorable days for this: 15, 21-24; in July: 20-22, 25, 26th.
Peppers ripen 100-150 days after germination, but you can accurately calculate the timing of sowing pepper seedlings only if you know the characteristics of the variety. For example, early ripening pepper is sown 65 days before planting seedlings on permanent place, mid-season - 70 days, late - 75 days.
Planting pepper seedlings at home
Soil for pepper seedlings
The soil for seedlings of peppers must be loose, nutritious, neutral or slightly acidic (pH 6-6.5) and sterile. You can purchase ready-made soil at garden stores or prepare the required soil mixture yourself.
Here are some recipes for suitable soil for pepper seedlings:
- leaf soil, sand and high peat in equal parts. The acidity level of such soil is adjusted by applying lime fertilizers;
- turf soil, compost and river sand in a ratio of 2:1:1;
- two parts of humus are mixed with two parts of peat and one part of well-washed sand, after which the soil is sifted through a sieve;
- humus, sandy loam meadow soil and turf soil in a ratio of 1:2:2 with the addition of a matchbox of potassium sulfate and two matchboxes superphosphate per 10 liters of ready-made soil mixture.
Any soil mixture must be disinfected before adding fertilizers.
Preparing pepper seeds for sowing
Dried seeds enclosed in a capsule containing a growth stimulant and various fertilizers, preparation for sowing is unnecessary and even harmful, because soaking the seeds damages their capsule.
Ordinary seeds are first kept in a solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection: dilute one gram of the drug in 100 ml of water and dip the seeds in the solution for 20 minutes.
After disinfecting the seeds, to increase productivity, they are placed in a solution of a growth stimulant, for example, Epin, prepared in accordance with the instructions, or placed in a solution of mineral fertilizers for 4-5 hours. After such treatment, the seed is washed in clean water and sow wet.
Some gardeners prefer to bubble the seeds by placing them in a gauze bag and lowering them into water through which air is blown with a compressor. The duration of this procedure is 4-5 hours.
But most often they resort to germinating seeds. They are wrapped in wet gauze or cloth, placed in a warm place and made sure that the cloth does not dry out. To do this, it is better to place the wrapped seeds on a saucer and place it under plastic. Do not soak the seeds with water– for germination, in addition to water, they also need oxygen. Germination occurs best at a temperature of 20-23 ºC. However, sprouted seeds have significant drawback– tender sprouts easily break off when sowing, so we recommend that you disinfect the seeds in potassium permanganate with their further processing in a growth stimulator.
Sowing pepper seedlings at home
Since pepper takes a very long time to recover after picking, sowing pepper seedlings is carried out in separate pots or cups with a diameter of 10 cm and a depth of 10-12 cm. But if you do not have this opportunity, take a spacious container for sowing, so that in the future it will be easier for you to replant the seedlings in pots with big lump land. The depth of such a box should be at least 5-6 cm, and the soil level should not reach the edge of the container by 2 cm. Do not forget to rinse the dishes in a solution of potassium permanganate before sowing.
Pepper seeds are laid out with tweezers on the surface of the soil at a distance of 1.5-2 cm from each other, pressed to the substrate, moistened through a sieve or by bottom watering, after which they are sprinkled with a 1 cm thick layer of soil on top, which is then slightly compacted. Cover the crops with plastic film or glass.
How to grow pepper seedlings in tablets
Good pepper seedlings are obtained when grown in peat tablets, since this crop does not tolerate picking very well - after transplantation, the seedlings do not begin to grow for a long time.
Sow seeds into tablets with a diameter of 3 cm: required amount tablets are placed in a transparent tray and filled with warm boiled water for swelling. As soon as the tablets stop absorbing water, pour out the excess water from the tray, make holes 1-1.5 cm deep in the upper part of the tablets, carefully place the seeds prepared in the described way into the holes and cover them with nutritious soil on top. Cover the tray with a transparent lid, glass or plastic wrap. Germinate seeds at a temperature of 25 ºC.
The first shoots appear within a week, and then the covering is removed from the crops, the tray is transferred to a bright place and kept at a temperature of 25-27 ºC during the day and 11-13 ºC at night. When the seedlings develop 2-4 leaves and the roots begin to grow through the mesh, the seedlings are planted directly in tablets in separate pots filled with one of the soil mixtures described above.
Growing pepper seedlings in cassettes
Now on sale there is a large selection of plastic cassettes in which it is very convenient to grow pepper seedlings - there are cassettes measuring 18x13.5x6 cm for four seedlings with cells 8x6 cm and a volume of 240 ml each. There are cassettes of the same size, but with six, nine and twelve cells. And there are cassettes in a box with a lid that allows light to pass through well, but does not allow moisture to evaporate - they can be used as mini-greenhouses.
A soil mixture or peat tablets suitable for peppers are placed in the cells, the seeds are sown, then the crops are covered with transparent material, the cassette is placed on a plastic tray and kept at a temperature of about 25 ºC. Humidification is carried out using the bottom watering method - water is poured into a tray.
Is it worth it to buy pepper seedlings?
If you do not want or cannot grow seedlings, you will have to purchase them, and it is better to buy planting material in nurseries, specialized stores or garden pavilions - there you have a better chance than on the market to buy exactly what you want and get answers to questions about seedlings. But, unfortunately, it is not always possible to purchase seedlings from well-established sellers and you have to go to the market to buy them.
What do you need to know when buying seedlings? The leaves of the seedlings should be developed, green and evenly colored - without white spots or plaque. Seedlings should be strong and strong, and not elongated and drooping.
Unfortunately, unscrupulous sellers use various tricks to sell their goods, and as a result you may end up with seedlings overfed with nitrogen fertilizers or vice versa, inhibitors that slow down growth. Such seedlings then bloom poorly, develop poorly and bear fruit poorly, but you are unlikely to be able to recognize this catch in the market. That's why it's better to buy good seeds from a trusted manufacturer and grow seedlings yourself.
Caring for pepper seedlings at home
Conditions for growing pepper seedlings
Maintaining the temperature regime necessary for the development of pepper seedlings in an apartment is not so easy, but you should know that the air temperature under the ceiling is a couple of degrees higher than at average height, and at the baseboard - two to three degrees lower. The brightest place in the apartment is the window sill, but it is also the coldest, and seedlings need warmth.
If you can organize seedlings artificial lighting, you can grow them where they will be warmer.
At a temperature of 26-28 ºC, pepper seeds germinate on the eighth to twelfth day, at a temperature of 20-26 ºC, shoots can appear after 13-17 days, at 18-20 ºC - after 18-20 days, and at 14-15 ºC you can wait for the emergence of seedlings no earlier than in a month.
As soon as the seedlings appear, the crops are moved as close to the light as possible, the temperature is lowered for a week to 15-17 ºC, and subsequently the seedlings are kept at 22-25 ºC during the day and at 20 ºC at night.
Do not forget to regularly ventilate the room, but keep in mind that seedlings are afraid of drafts and cold air.
Watering pepper seedlings
For the first two or three days, the emerging seedlings are not watered, but if the soil requires moisture, it is carefully sprayed with a sprayer. As soon as the cotyledon leaves open, the seedlings are watered with thirty-degree water. Subsequently, the seedlings are moistened by rain or standing water for 24 hours. tap water room temperature.
The soil of the seedlings should not dry out - pepper does not tolerate drought, but excess moisture in the roots should not be allowed.
Please note that soil in a shallow container loses moisture faster than in a large container. Air humidity in the room is maintained at 60-70%.
Feeding pepper seedlings
To develop the root system of seedlings, they are fed with potassium humate, diluting 5 ml of the drug in two liters of water. Before the formation of flower buds, pepper seedlings develop very slowly, then their growth becomes more intense, and during the flowering period, pepper seedlings are fertilized with the following composition containing microelements: 1 g of manganese sulfate and iron sulfate or citrate are dissolved in 10 liters of water, 0. 2 g of zinc sulfate and copper sulfate and 1.7 g of boric acid.
Pinching pepper seedlings
Homemade pepper seedlings require pinching, that is, removal of the growing point of the seedlings. This is done in order to stimulate the development of the root system in the peppers and the growth of stepsons from dormant buds in the internodes in which flowers are formed.
Pinching is done when the bell pepper seedlings begin to develop intensively - the part of the plant located above 4-6 internodes is removed with scissors. When, over time, the seedlings begin to grow stepchildren, the load on the bush is regulated, leaving 4-6 of the most developed stepchildren, and the rest are removed. There is no need to remove stepsons in the lower internodes.
Illumination of pepper seedlings
Because peppers have compared to others vegetable crops The growing season is longer; seedlings of this crop begin to be grown earlier than other plants, when daylight hours are still short. But due to the fact that pepper seedlings require lighting for 12-14 hours every day, it is necessary to organize artificial lighting for it, otherwise the seedlings will be thin and elongated, with sparse leaves due to too long internodes.
Natural light from February to March is only about 5,000 lux, but normal seedling development requires a light level of 20,000 lux. The process of photosynthesis requires not just light, but a certain spectrum of rays: red rays stimulate the process of seed germination and flowering of seedlings, violet and blue rays participate in the formation of cells, while yellow and green rays do not affect the development of plants. Namely, yellow light is emitted by ordinary incandescent lamps, and therefore it makes no sense to use them to illuminate seedlings. In addition, such lamps emit infrared rays, which cause the seedlings to stretch and overheat.
It is best to use phyto- or fluorescent lamps for artificial illumination of pepper seedlings, as well as LED lights, which are created precisely for such purposes. The seedlings are illuminated with 200 W lamps per 1 m² of crop area. The lighting is placed at a distance of 20 cm from the tops of the plants, and when the seedlings grow, the light source is raised.
In the development phase of cotyledon leaves, to stimulate rapid growth of seedlings, lamps should be operated for three days in a row. As soon as the seedlings have true leaves, the daylight hours should be 14-16 hours. In February, artificial lighting should work from morning until 19-20 hours without interruption. In April, the lights are turned on only in the mornings from 6 to 12 hours and in the evenings from 16 to 19 hours.
Picking pepper seedlings
If the pepper grows in a common container, at the stage of development of the seedlings with two true leaves, the seedlings are picked, although some reference books recommend picking already in the cotyledon phase. The soil with seedlings is well moistened and then allowed to drain excess water. Seedlings are planted in separate pots with a capacity of 100-150 ml - the seedlings, together with a lump of earth, are transferred into holes made in the soil, which should accommodate the root system of the seedling with soil. The roots are placed freely in the soil, without bends. The hole is sprinkled with soil and lightly compacted.
When picking, the root collar of the seedlings is buried no more than 5 mm. After transplanting, the seedlings are watered and, if necessary, soil is added to the pots. At first, the seedlings are protected from direct sunlight, and the temperature should not be lower than 15 ºC - at 13 ºC, seedling growth stops.
Pepper seedling diseases and treatment
Sometimes, in the phase of cotyledon leaves, seedlings of sweet peppers begin to turn yellow, the subcotyledonous stem at the soil level darkens, then turns black, a constriction forms in this place, and the seedlings lie down. The cause of seedling death in this case is the fungal disease blackleg. Usually the causative agent of the disease is in the soil that you have not disinfected before sowing, but it happens that infection occurs through seeds or unsterile containers - that is why it is so important pre-sowing preparation and disinfection. The black leg progresses against the background of excess or insufficient watering, dense sowing, too high or, conversely, too low temperature. Treatment of seedlings with copper-containing preparations and good lighting will help you fight the disease. Affected plants must be removed.
If your seedlings with two pairs of leaves suddenly begin to wilt without changing color sheet plates, and lag behind in growth, most likely, the seedlings are sick with the fungal disease fusarium. With fusarium wilt, the leaves begin to turn yellow from bottom to top, and in the section of the stem you can see a browned vascular ring.
The means to combat fusarium are the same as for blackleg, but it is better to prevent the disease from manifesting itself - sterilizing the soil and utensils for sowing seedlings, as well as disinfecting the seeds, will help you with this.
When gray fluff appears on the soil, the inner walls of the box and the base of the seedling stems, oppressing the seedlings, we can say that the crops have been affected by gray rot. For preventive purposes, once every 10 days, seedlings are sprayed with a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate, and treatment is carried out with bacterial fungicides or copper-containing preparations, having previously removed the affected specimens.
Already adult seedlings can be affected by late blight: dark stripes appear on the stems, and light spots appear on the lower leaves, which gradually darken. The source of infection is usually soil. On early stage development of late blight, seedlings are sprayed with a solution of 5 ml of iodine in a liter of water; at a later stage, you will have to resort to fungicides, first culling the diseased plants.
White spots and plaque on the leaves and stems, from which the growth of seedlings slows down and the leaves turn yellow, are signs of powdery mildew, which affects not only adult plants, but also seedlings. The disease will have to be combated with bacterial fungicides or an iodine solution, as when seedlings are affected by late blight.
And sometimes there is a hurricane withering of seedlings: in the evening the seedlings were healthy, and in the morning they all lie as if they were scalded with boiling water. This disease is more common in southern regions and affects sunflower and nightshade crops. This disease cannot be treated, so you will have to replant the peppers.
When to plant pepper seedlings in the ground
With the development of 7-8 leaves in the seedlings and the formation of large buds, if at this moment the seedlings reach a height of 20-25 cm, you can begin to harden them. First, the seedlings are placed for 7-10 days at a temperature of 16-18 ºC, and then the temperature is lowered to 12-14 ºC. To do this, open the vents and windows in the room or take the plants out onto the balcony, loggia or veranda, placing them under direct Sun rays. The duration of such sessions is increased every day, and two or three days before planting in open ground, the seedlings are left to outdoors at night, protecting from too cold air. Hardening lasts approximately two weeks.
At the time of planting seedlings in the ground, the seedlings should already have 8-9 leaves and several formed buds, and the average daily temperature in the garden should not fall below 15-17 ºC. Before planting the seedlings, the area should be prepared: dug up with a shovel and leveled. IN clay soil humus and peat are added. The wells are placed at a distance of 50 cm from one another, maintaining row spacing of 60 cm wide. Place a tablespoon of full mineral fertilizer and mix it well with the soil. The depth of the hole should accommodate the roots of the seedling without bending, and the root collar after embedding should be flush with the surface of the area. The seedlings are transferred into the holes along with a lump of earth, the hole is filled halfway so that the bulk of the roots are covered with soil, then about a third of a bucket of water is poured into the hole, and when it is absorbed, the hole is filled to the top with soil.
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You don't read about this in books from the 70s that rewrite a magazine from the 2000s. Not all farmers and gardeners know about this: growing pepper seedlings in a greenhouse: what we don’t know, what mistakes we make in agricultural technology. From seed selection, sowing to shaping and harvesting.
Planting pepper seedlings: our mistakes
About planting pepper seedlings: you can’t help but know this, it’s important to remember these subtleties.
Seed selection
We often choose the wrong varieties. We look at yield, size, color - just not the most important things.
1. Type of bush. It defines the purpose. Like this? There are standard, semi-standard, and bush peppers.
What will it give? The first two are for open ground, the second and third types are for closed ground. If they are swapped, the plants develop poorly and the yield will decrease.
In addition, they are all formed differently: not formed, in two stems, in 3-4 or more. If you don’t know how, if you don’t have time, you shouldn’t buy seeds that need careful rationing and shaping: you will be without a harvest.
Do not buy bush ones for open ground or semi-standard ones: you will be disappointed.
2. Thickness of the pericarp, i.e. wall thickness. Thin-walled varieties, hybrids are usually early - these are white, yellow varieties mostly. Thick-walled – mid-early, late.
What thickness is considered thick? 4-5 and up to 6 mm can be classified as thin-walled. Over 6-7 and up to 10-12 cm – thick-walled.
3. Internodes. Short internodes – potentially high yield. This means that more fruit will be formed on each tier.
Important! For open ground in regions with cold, short summers, early ripening standard-type varieties are chosen. For greenhouses - tall, later, with thick walls. To sell early ones, you have to choose mid-early ones, with a small thickness of the carp.
How to choose a planting date and calendar:
And even when choosing a shape based on color, we can make a mistake. The following types are distinguished: sweet, spicy, hot. Sweets are divided into groups (types):
- Blocky (cuboid, short cuboid);
- Hungarian (conical, long-conical);
- Cappy;
- Rotunda (Gogoshary);
- Lamuyo.
And others.
What will it give? Reliability. Many pseudo-producers distributing poor quality material. If the type is not indicated on the packaging, and the manufacturer’s representatives or the private owner find it difficult to answer, do not bother: buy a re-sorted one.
Planting pepper seedlings and care: 5 mistakes and surprises
Planting pepper seedlings: planting correctly, growing correctly: subtleties of agricultural technology that are important to know and remember.
1. Soil preparation
Pepper loves neutral-acid soils (pH 6.0-6.5), light, with a high humus content. You should not add humus and other organic matter to the soil mixture. And peat isn't worth it either.
- Why? Organic matter is a complex of complex components. This is 100% nutritional imbalance and excess nitrogen.
- Why shouldn't you add peat? It acidifies the soil. And peppers are picky about pH balance.
And most importantly, the seedlings cannot eat in the first weeks!
They feed on seed reserves - amino acids, enzymes. Root hairs do not work to absorb moisture and nutrients until the dive. And photosynthesis practically did not begin - to the extent to ensure the processing of nutrients. It is only enough for the seedlings to breathe, no more. This is why the seedlings are not watered at first, and then the watering is scanty: they still cannot drink!
Alternatively: garden soil, purchased soil, sand in a ratio of 1:1:1. You can add a handful of vermiculite.
They are grown in hydroponics, on coconut mats, and even in tyrsa (sawdust): this is not an extreme: growing with a balanced mineral diet shows top scores than the unbalanced composition of good old mullein and peat.
2. About deepening and containers
The seeds are planted a little deeper and a little later: they germinate more slowly than the same tomatoes. And it is better to plant them immediately in large cells with a cone-shaped bottom, at least 10-12 cm high, so that the root system does not get tangled deep or bent. Or in pots 0.25-0.5 ml.
And most importantly, large containers are needed to avoid a dive or postpone it to a later date.
3. About lighting: pepper lighting
Pepper is heat-loving and light-loving, but it is a short-day crop.
A little additional lighting is needed - a maximum of 8 hours. More than 10-12 hours at the initial stage is excess: we noticed that pepper seedlings rarely stretch.
The optimal light regime for pepper seedlings is as follows:
- The first 3-7 days can (and should) be illuminated around the clock;
- the next 3 weeks, daylight hours are 10-12 hours;
- Then there will be 14-16 hours of daylight before planting in the ground.
If artificial lighting cannot be reduced, seedlings are shaded after lighting from the 4th week: pepper needs night.
4. Temperature: temperature for growing pepper seedlings
Pepper germinates slowly: from 7-10 to 20-22 days.
- Greater germination can be achieved by increasing the soil temperature to +25...+30 °C.
- Without increasing, at +25 °C the first loops will appear only after 12-15 days, at +22 °C - after 20 days.
- At temperatures below +20 °C, seedlings may die.
When seedlings appear, the temperature is temporarily reduced to +17...+18 °C for 4-5 days.
Do not water immediately - when the soil is completely dry, almost before signs of wilting begin.
After 5 days, the temperature is increased to +22…+25 °C.
5. Peppers don't like diving.
Doesn't like it very much: slows down development, can stop after unsuccessfully traumatic pinching. Its root system is not fibrous, superficial - there is almost nothing to pinch there, and there is no need: it will not change its type.
This tomato with its fibrous branching root can produce additional roots. Pepper - no.
That is why he does not like loosening the soil and vice versa: he needs mulching. Even transplanting without diving shifts the growing season by 10-15 days.
They dive after the appearance of two cotyledon leaves, and when 3-4 leaves appear.
When replanting, it is important to ensure that the root is not bent. And bury it down to the very cotyledon leaves. After diving (transplanting into another container - without pinching the root), watering is stopped for 5-7 days. The backlight is also reduced.
For what? So that during regeneration and restoration, plants do not waste energy on nutrition, but heal wounds inflicted by caring owners. After 5-6 days, the temperature and backlight time are returned to the original ones.
6. Feeding seedlings
In total, it is worth carrying out two feedings. The first is nitrogen, for the growth of green mass. The second is mineral: potassium, phosphorus, microelements. This is potassium nitrate or potassium humate, superphosphate. The topic is extensive and deserves separate coverage.
And no organic matter: in 90% of cases you will not cope with the imbalance of microelements that it brings - for this you need to be an agricultural technician with capital letters And great experience. Secondly, it is fraught with diseases and pests. There are wonderful micronutrient complexes. In large quantities this is not rational.
7. Growth stimulants and other flowering fuses, and retardants
It became a proverb in “ useful tips”: soak the seeds in any stimulant - Bioglobin, succinic acid. Or water the seedlings.
No need to soak or water unnecessarily. Unless the deadline for the greenhouse is running out, but the seeds have low germination, or the seedlings have died. Why?
This is an internal reserve. All dietary supplements are a complex of phytohormones that promote the production or suppress growth substances, auxins and others. Nature has balanced their quantity in the seed - they contain exactly as much as is necessary for development. Everything from the outside is doping.
Without continued stimulation, they stop growing, which is critical for pepper: recovery will be long.
Retardants are used to slow down growth if the seedlings have become stretched and outgrown.
If tomatoes and eggplants are nimble and quickly recover from hormones that slow down their development, slow-witted peppers are thinking: to grow or not to grow. And he may decide not to grow up.
Manufacturers honestly and categorically warn: you should not use the same Atlet in the budding stage - this may leave the pepper without a harvest or completely destroy it.
If the seedlings have outgrown, there is nothing terrible for the greenhouse: it will quickly come to its senses. And for open ground, just tear off the ovary.
Until you plant them, feed them with fluoride - it slows down cell division, thickens the seedlings, and prevents them from stretching out. And lower the temperature. And be sure to tear off the flowers and buds (the top, so-called crown bud). The next ones will be big ones.
8. Don't harden it before planting.
Important! Glass does not transmit the blue spectrum of radiation, which is necessary for seedlings to develop.
You can’t harden a heat-loving crop: it’s more like natural selection. At most, take it out into the sun for a couple of hours, into the air, under the sun's rays and into the air.
They are planted in a permanent place in different ways. For greenhouses up to 60-65 days, in open ground 70+ days. The seedlings should form and buds may appear.
A common mistake is watering before transplanting. Supposedly easier to remove from the pot.
It’s easier for us, but it’s harder for peppers: after watering, tissues become more juicy, loose, and fragile.
When transporting seedlings, leaves may break. And the transplantation process itself will be more traumatic: any damage to the stem or roots will be accompanied by abundant sap.
After transplanting, do not rush to water it abundantly, much less feed it. In order to absorb fertilizer and water, the root system must restore its suction function. And this will happen in 10 days on average. Therefore, water as needed and fertilize later.
