Spraying roses in spring against pests. The health of our roses. General recommendations for pest prevention and control

Fungal disease of roses powdery mildew in the photo

When the fungal disease of roses is powdery mildew, a powdery coating appears on young leaves, shoots and buds; thickening and curvature are observed.

As you can see in the photo, powdery mildew on roses appears as a whitish coating, which is a mycelium and sporulation of the fungus:

Powdery mildew on roses
Powdery mildew on roses appears as a whitish coating (photo)

The pathogen overwinters in the form of mycelium in the kidneys. The development of the disease is facilitated by excess nitrogen fertilizer, lack of calcium in the soil, drying out of the soil, too light sandy or, conversely, cold, damp soils.

The disease develops especially strongly with insufficient lighting and high air humidity. Sudden changes in temperature, drafts, drying out of the soil and other conditions that disrupt the normal life of plants reduce their resistance to disease. Tea and hybrid tea roses with more delicate foliage are especially affected.

Rose varieties that are resistant to powdery mildew are those that have dense, glossy leaves of the “Gloria Day” type.

For treatment powdery mildew on roses, when the first signs of disease appear, it is necessary to spray the bushes with “Topaz”, “Chistotsvet”, “Fundazol” or “Skorom”. At temperatures above 22°C it is possible to spray with “Grey Colloid” or “Tiovit Jet”. If necessary, to combat this disease of roses, treatments are repeated as new growth and powdery mildew spots appear on them.

Rust of roses in the photo

With this disease of roses, the affected parts of the shoots become bent and thickened. In spring, orange dust appears on the stems near the opening buds and at the root collar. This is the spring sporulation of the fungus - the causative agent of the stem form of rust. The fungus overwinters in plant tissues infected in previous years. The disease develops more intensely in years with warm and wet springs.

Rust fungi not only take away nutrients from the plant, but also severely disrupt its physiological functions: they increase transpiration, reduce photosynthesis, make breathing difficult and worsen metabolism.

With rose disease, rust on the leaves on the underside in summer, small, red-yellow pads of summer spores form, which can give rise to several generations and infect new plants.

In the second half of summer, winter sporulation begins to appear on the underside of the leaves in the form of small round black pads.

Look at the photo - if this rose disease has severely affected the plant, the entire leaves turn yellow and fall off prematurely:

Affected parts of rose shoots (photo)
With rose disease, rust on the leaves on the underside in summer, small, red-yellow pads of summer spores form (photo)

The spread of rust fungus spores occurs with air flow, water, and planting material.

To protect roses from this disease, one-way nitrogen fertilization should be avoided. In the fall, it is necessary to remove and burn the affected foliage, and in the early spring (before the buds open) spray the plants and the soil around them with iron sulfate (1-1.5%). The soil under the bushes must be loosened and mulched to reduce infection.

To treat rose rust, it is necessary to carefully and promptly trim shoots affected by the stem form of rust, and re-spray the plants from the moment the buds open. Bordeaux mixture(1%) or its substitutes (“Oksikhom”, “Abiga-Pik”, “Hom”, “Copper Oxychloride”, “Ordan”).

Rose leaf disease black spot in photo

Black spot disease of roses is also called marsonina after the name of the fungus that causes the disease. In the second half of summer, dark brown, almost black, spots of different sizes form on the leaves. The leaves turn brown and often fall off prematurely. Spots may also appear on the green bark of annual shoots.

Plants with prematurely fallen leaves sometimes begin to grow again, as a result of which they become very weak and next year they bloom poorly.

Under the skin of the leaves, the mycelium of the fungus develops - the causative agent of rose spot disease, forming radiantly growing strands.

As can be seen in the photo, with this disease of roses, radiance is clearly visible at the edge of the spots:

With this disease of roses, radiance can be clearly visible at the edge of the spots (photo)
Under the skin of the leaves, the mycelium of the fungus develops - the causative agent of rose spot disease (photo)

This disease of rose leaves manifests itself more strongly in dense plantings, in shaded areas, and in poorly ventilated areas.

Measures to combat this disease include:

correct agricultural technology, increasing plant resistance;
careful collection of affected leaves in the fall and burning them;
spraying plants during the growing season with preparations containing copper, which are used in the fight against rust.
To treat this disease of roses, it is recommended to use a special preparation for spraying (Skor to protect roses), which is a systemic fungicide with preventive and curative action.

Treatments must be started when the first signs of the disease appear and repeated after each rain or heavy dew.

These photos show how to treat black spot disease of roses:

Disease bacterial cancer roses in the photo

With bacterial canker of roses, growths of varying sizes form on the root collar and roots of plants. Sometimes they are barely noticeable, but often reach several centimeters in diameter. The growths have an uneven tuberculate surface. They consist of soft tissue, first white, then brown, and are decomposed by bacteria in the soil.

There are also hard, lignified growths that grow every year. Less commonly, the above-ground part is affected - trunks and branches, mainly in climbing and standard remontant roses. Here, tuberous nodules and tumors of various sizes are formed.

Cancer-causing bacteria affect many plants belonging to different families. Infection occurs through wounds on plant roots, from the soil, where bacteria can persist for a very long time.

The development of the disease is facilitated by high soil moisture, abundant manure fertilizer, root damage, and alkaline soil reaction.

When replanting, plants with damaged root collars must be destroyed and growths on the lateral roots must be trimmed. To treat this disease of roses, the roots after pruning are immersed for 5 minutes in a 1% solution of copper sulfate, and then washed in water and dipped in liquid mixture clay with sand. Avoid excess manure fertilizer, destroy insects that damage the roots, and do not dig up the soil near the bushes.

Look at the photo of rose cancer treatment:

Fungal disease burns rose branches in the photo

Branch burn is a fungal disease in which, reddish spots first appear on the branches, later darkening in the middle; the red-brown border persists for quite a long time. As the spots grow, they ring the branches. Tissue sagging may form above the affected area. Diseased branches usually dry out at the end of summer.

The development of “burn” is facilitated by excess humidity under the winter shelter.

To avoid severe damage to roses, cover should be removed earlier in the spring. Sick and frozen branches must be pruned and burned in a timely manner.

As shown in the photo, when treating this disease of roses, plants need to be sprayed with preparations containing copper, as in the fight against rust:

Proper agricultural practices (timely application of fertilizers, loosening and watering) help reduce the severity of the disease. It is necessary to achieve good ripening of the wood until the end of the plant growing season.

For the winter, plants with already fallen leaves should be covered in dry weather if possible, so that increased humidity is not created under the cover. Before covering, unripe shoots with green leaves are removed, and the plants are sprayed with a 3% Bordeaux mixture or a 1.5% solution of ferrous sulfate.

Cytosporosis is a fungal disease of roses in the photo

Cytosporosis is a fungal disease that is widespread throughout the world. Roses affect a number of ornamental shrubs, as well as pome and stone fruit trees and nuts.

Cytosporosis is also called infectious drying out. In some years it leads not only to drying out separate branches, but also to the death of plants. Bushes weakened as a result of freezing, drought, etc. are especially susceptible to this disease. sunburn, untimely pruning, etc.

First, the causative agent of the disease settles on dying individual areas of the bark. Large, clearly visible orange-red fungal pycnidia tubercles appear over the entire area of the affected bark, protruding from under the skin.

Look at the photo - with this rose disease, cracks form at the border of the affected and healthy tissue:

The causative agent of the disease moves first upward through the tissues and vessels of plants, and after the branches dry out - downward, killing cells adjacent to the zone of its spread with its toxins.

Cytosporosis disease should be considered as a secondary phenomenon associated with a general weakening of plants, therefore, when choosing control measures, it is first necessary to protect the bushes from mechanical and other damage.

Also, regularly carry out activities that increase the vitality of plants - timely and correct pruning, fertilizing, tillage, watering, protection from sunburn, increasing winter hardiness, cutting and burning branches with signs of disease, capturing up to 5 cm of the healthy part of the branch.

Early spring spraying of roses with a 1.5% solution of copper sulfate on the “dormant” buds and 3% Bordeaux mixture on the green cone to some extent inhibits the spread and development of the disease.

Carrying out pruning of bushes in optimal timing protects roses from the appearance of cytosporosis.

Gray rot on roses (photo)

Gray rot of roses (botrytis) mainly affects buds with pedicels, the tops of young stems and leaves - in damp weather they become covered with a gray fluffy coating.

First of all, this disease garden roses attacks weakened plants, and most often those with white and light pink flowers. The buds on roses affected by botrytis do not open, rot and fall off. Small brown spots appear on the petals, the leaves turn yellow and also fall off.

Foci of infection persist in plant debris in the form of mycelium, which forms spores in the spring. The fungal spores are then spread by insects and wind. Therefore, an undesirable “neighbor” for roses is, for example, garden strawberries, very susceptible to botrytis.

Gray rot appears on roses when plantings are thickened, or if the rose garden is watered late in the evening, when the rose leaves do not have time to dry before night.

How to deal with gray rot of roses in your garden? Measures to combat and prevent this rose disease are the same as against other fungal diseases.

Interesting facts about rose diseases

Speaking about rose diseases, we can highlight several interesting facts:

You can determine how resistant roses are to disease by their leaves: if they are dense and shiny, covered with a waxy coating, the variety is resistant. The fact is that wax prevents infection from penetrating into the leaf, which means it prevents infection.
There are no completely disease-resistant varieties. Even those varieties that are labeled “disease-resistant” in catalogs lose this valuable quality after 5-6 years, as diseases adapt to changing conditions and mutate, like the flu. Therefore, old varieties of roses can only be found in amateur gardens, but not in flower farms or on city streets.
Gray rot, for example, multiplies especially quickly in wet weather, and considering that many gardeners plant roses densely, the soil under the plants does not dry out quickly enough after rain or watering.
Leaves that do not dry out for a long time or cool nights or dew in the morning favor black spot. Powdery mildew, and among pests - spider mites, on the contrary, love dry and hot weather. Therefore, roses growing near southern walls or fences are especially affected by these pests.
Florists can to some extent influence the development of diseases and the appearance of pests, as well as predict their occurrence. Strong, well-groomed plants are less likely to get sick, and they are more resistant to pest infestation.

Watch the video “Rose Diseases”, which shows all the main plant diseases and methods of combating them:

How to treat roses against diseases: effective remedies

All flower growers, without exception, are interested in how to treat roses against diseases. The most effective remedies for rose diseases include the following drugs.

"Alirin-B"- a biological preparation based on beneficial microorganisms isolated from natural sources. Effective in the fight against powdery mildew of ornamental and other plants.

"Glyokladin"- an analogue of the well-known drug “Trichodermin”. Effective against a wide range of fungal diseases, such as fusarium, white and gray rot, late blight, root and stem rot, blackleg and clubroot of cabbage.

"Gamair"- a drug intended to protect against a wide range of bacterial diseases: bacterial leaf spot, bacterial burn, bacterial cancer.

"Topaz"- systemic fungicide for the protection of ornamental, pome, stone fruit, berry, vegetable crops and vines against powdery mildew. This preparation for treating roses against diseases can be used as a protective, therapeutic and exterminating agent against rust. The drug is available in the form of an emulsion concentrate.

As a means of extermination high degree Powdery mildew lesions “Topaz” is used in increased concentrations (up to 10 ml), carrying out 2 sprayings with an interval of 7 days.

The drug provides reliable protection against powdery mildew even against a high infectious background. Topaz is not phytotoxic and does not leave stains on treated leaves and fruits. As prophylactic reduces the number of treatments, as it is valid for 40 days. The drug meets modern safety requirements for humans and the environment. It is quickly absorbed by plants, which reduces the risk of the drug being washed off by rain.

To avoid the emergence of resistance in powdery mildew pathogens, it is recommended to alternate “Topaz” with contact copper-containing preparations and sulfur colloidal and not to use it on the same crop more than 4 times per season.

"Topaz" Compatible with most drugs used in gardens against diseases and pests. The speed of exposure is 2-3 hours after spraying.

What else can you use to treat roses against diseases and to prevent infections in your garden?

"Pure Flower"- a new drug for protecting flower and ornamental crops from diseases (fungicide).

Directions for use: the required dose of the drug in a special container is dissolved in a small volume of water. Then, with constant stirring, bring the volume of the working solution to 5 or 10 liters. The working fluid is prepared immediately before use and used completely on the same day. The period for safe exit of people to carry out manual work is after 7 days. Speed of action of the drug: 2 hours after treatment.

Period of protective action: when preventive treatments- 7-15 days, in conditions of intensive development of diseases - 7 days.

Therapeutic effect of the drug: within 4 days from the moment of infection. Amateur gardeners are not recommended to mix this drug with other protective agents when spraying plants.

"Pure Flower" is an analogue of the drug "Raek".

"Fundazol"- systemic drug and disinfectant planting material to protect against a range of diseases.

When using the drug, fill the container for treating planting material 1/3 with water, then add the required amount of the drug, mix thoroughly and add the remaining amount of water.

Spray the plants with a freshly prepared solution in dry, windless weather, preferably in the morning (before 10 o'clock) or in the evening (18-22 o'clock), evenly wetting the leaves. The working solution cannot be stored!

"Speed to Protect Roses" from black spotting, decorative and fruit crops from a complex of diseases. It is a systemic fungicide with preventive and curative action. The contents of the ampoule must be diluted in water.

Spray with freshly prepared solution in dry, windless weather, wetting the plants evenly.

Working fluid consumption: on roses - up to 1 liter per plant; on flower plants And ornamental shrubs- up to 10 liters per 100 m2.

Do not store the working solution! Release time for Manual works: 3 days. Compatibility with other pesticides is not practical. The period of protective action is 7-14 days. Exposure period: two hours after treatment. Not phytotoxic. Cultures are tolerant to the drug. There is no resistance. Low danger to bees (class 3). Toxic to fish, do not allow to enter water bodies.

"Copper oxychloride"(wettable powder) is one of the copper-containing preparations for combating diseases of vegetable and fruit crops.

When using, dilute the contents of the package (40 g) in 10 liters of water. It is necessary to spray the plants with a freshly prepared solution in dry, windless weather, preferably in the morning (before 10 o’clock) or in the evening (18-22 o’clock), evenly wetting the leaves. In recommended doses the drug is not phytotoxic. The period of protective action is 7-10 days.

The drug is dangerous for bees and fish; do not treat during flowering. Do not allow to enter water bodies.

These photos show effective remedies for treating rose diseases:

How to spray roses against diseases: the best preparations

Don’t know what to spray roses against diseases to protect the flowers? Then use the following drugs, which are considered one of the best.

"Abiga Peak" is a copper-containing contact action fungicide intended to combat a complex of fungal and bacterial diseases on vegetable, fruit, ornamental and flower crops, grapevine and medicinal plants.

The drug is used during the growing season by spraying plants.

A 50 g package is designed to prepare 10 liters of working solution for treating 100 m2.

The contents of the bubble are pre-dissolved in 1 liter of water and, with thorough mixing, brought to 10 liters with water - a working solution for spraying is obtained.

Spraying is carried out prophylactically or when the first signs of the disease appear. Plants are treated by evenly covering the shoots, leaves and fruits with the working solution.

Attention! All solutions should be prepared in plastic, glass or enamel containers.

This medicine against rose diseases provides reliable protection of plants from diseases even under unfavorable weather conditions. The preparation contains an adhesive that allows the active substance “Abiga-Peak” to adhere firmly to the treated plant surface.

Very important!"Abiga-Pik" is compatible with almost all known modern insecticides and fungicides. Easy to use, non-toxic. The product does not generate dust when preparing the working solution. The prepared solution, but not used due to weather conditions, can be stored for a long time.

"Abiga Peak" has a beneficial effect on the quality of grown products. When using it, good ripening of young shoots is observed.

The best remedies for combating rose diseases are shown in the photo:

"Tiovit Jet"- a means to combat diseases of flower and fruit crops.

Directions for use: dissolve the dose of the drug in a small amount of water, then, gradually stirring, add water to 10 liters. Treat with a freshly prepared solution in dry, windless weather, ensuring uniform wetting of the leaves.

"Tiovit" has good adhesion, has a contact effect and an active gas phase; practically non-toxic for birds, bees, fish.

The advantages of the drug are that it is simultaneously a fungicide, an acaricide, and a microelement; provides reliable plant protection for 7-10 days; can be used for preventive spraying, has good compatibility with other pesticides.

"Colloidal sulfur" mainly used to combat powdery mildew and various types herbivorous mites on flower crops. It is effective only at air temperatures above +20...+22°C, since sulfur vapors work.

Mode of application. When preparing the working fluid, the drug is first stirred in a small amount of warm water until creamy, and then water is added, mixing the composition well (it is better to soak the drug the day before, 2-5 hours before treatment).

The last processing time before harvest is 3 days.

The drug is not dangerous for humans and warm-blooded animals. “Colloidal sulfur”, as a rule, does not burn the leaves.

However, many gooseberry varieties drop their leaves after processing. Therefore, you should not use sulfur to control American gooseberry powdery mildew or spray roses near this bush.

Remember! Before treating rose diseases, you must carefully read the instructions for use of a particular drug.

In the entire European part of Russia, it is quite difficult to find a garden or summer cottage with a flower garden that does not have several rose bushes grown on it. This universal recognition and love of flower growers is explained, first of all, by the attractiveness of cultivated species, the long flowering period and the diversity of varieties. But in order for flowering bushes to retain their spectacular attractiveness and decorative qualities, they require constant comprehensive care. Rose pest control is precisely one of the components of this set of measures.

Unfortunately, most decorative varieties, obtained as a result of long-term selection using multiple repeated crossings and selection, are susceptible to various diseases and suffer from pests.
Most insects, feeding on various parts of cultivated flowers, reduce the decorative attractiveness of roses or simply destroy the plant. Only by knowing the structural features and lifestyle of insect pests can you choose effective methods to combat them. We suggest that you familiarize yourself in more detail with the group of insects that are most harmful to rose bushes, and consider ways to prevent and protect roses from pests. The publication also provides general recommendations for organizing the prevention and control of harmful insects.

The most harmful insects

One of the factors that negatively affects the condition of flowering bushes is the activity of phytophagous insects, as a result of which physiological processes can be disrupted, plant development can be delayed, their growth can be weakened, and, as a result, decorative qualities can be reduced. That is why, in order to timely detect harmful insects and take the necessary measures, it is necessary to periodically inspect flowering bushes, especially in spring. We present the most common and harmful pests of roses, a description of their characteristics and methods of effective protection.

Sawfly

Rose sawfly caterpillar

The most common types of sawflies are: ascending, descending, comb-whiskered, slimy, warty. Adults are small hymenoptera insects that are absolutely harmless to green spaces, unlike their larvae, appearance resembling caterpillars. The larvae, eating the foliage of rose bushes, leave only bare stems. Young, immature flowers growing both in open ground, and in greenhouses and conservatories. In early spring, usually in April, false caterpillars (larvae) emerge from the eggs, reaching a length of no more than 5 mm, with a translucent body of a whitish color. At first, the larvae stay in a compact group, then gradually spread out, eating the leaves of the entire bush. After about a month, the mature caterpillars move to the soil and pupate.

Descending rose sawfly

Damage caused– ascending sawflies, moving up the inside of the leaves, eat all the pulp of the leaf, leaving behind characteristic skeletons of veins and bare stems. Descending sawflies, in order to move downwards, gnaw through young shoots, making tunnels in them, which leads to withering and death of young shoots.

Prevention and control methods:

autumn loosening of the soil under the bushes in order to destroy the pupae;
pruning and burning damaged young shoots;
spring treatment of bushes with insecticides - preparations intended to destroy harmful insects and their larvae.

rose aphid

Green rose aphid

The two most common species found on flowering plants are the green roseate aphid and the leaf aphid. They are small insects, the size of which does not exceed a few millimeters, grass-green, black or brown in color. Using a special proboscis designed to pierce young shoots and leaves of roses, aphids suck out the juice from the plant. From the eggs laid on the plant in the fall, colonies of larvae appear in the spring and feed on the juices of shoots, buds and young leaves. Having entered the adult phase, a period of active reproduction begins, forming several generations per season.

The natural enemy of aphids is the ladybug.

Damage caused– feeding on the cell sap of the plant, aphid colonies can completely destroy the flower. Young stems with buds wither, the leaves wrinkle and curl ugly. Adults, laying eggs, are able to move from an infected flower to others, thus filling the entire flower garden. Insects that feed on aphids are hoverflies, lacewings and ladybugs.

Prevention and control methods:

early spring treatment of rose bushes with insecticides (Arrivo, Actara, Rogor, Calypso);
biological preparations - agravertine, fitoverm, it is recommended to use during the period of mass appearance of insects;
folk remedies for pests - tincture or decoction of wormwood, soap solution.

Common spider mite

Spider mite

One of the most common pests of cultivated plants in general and roses in particular is a small arthropod insect, no more than 0.5 mm long, most often yellow, green or brown in color. A characteristic feature is that only fertilized females successfully survive the harsh winter, hiding in crevices of tree bark, fallen leaves and other plant debris. With the onset of warming to 13-15 degrees, females emerge from the shelter and move to the inner surfaces of emerging leaves. After some time, having built a thin web, the female lays eggs in it. The development period of the larvae is 1.5-3 weeks, depending on the air temperature. Larvae, as well as adult insects, feed on the sap of young leaves, shoots and buds of flowering plants.

Rose affected by spider mites

Damage caused– the affected leaves first change color (become grayish, then brown), and soon wither and die. Without timely intervention, this group of mites can completely cover the plant with tiny cobwebs and completely destroy rose bush. Symptoms of the lesion are a pale color of the foliage, on which whitish dots are observed on the inside, the number of which increases over time.

Prevention and control methods:

periodic carrying out agrotechnical measures - digging up the soil under the bushes, removing weeds;
spraying plants chemicals, intended to combat ticks (acrex, isofen, omaite);
the use of a natural enemy - a predatory mite (only in greenhouses or greenhouses).

Rose leaf roller

An almost omnivorous pest, distributed in almost all regions of Russia, but more often found in the steppe zone. Small moth(wingspan up to 2 cm) with a thin belly, brownish-gray color. IN autumn period The leaf roller lays eggs in crevices in the bark of fruit trees, where they successfully overwinter. In mid-spring, a massive revival of greenish-brown caterpillars up to 2.5 cm long is observed. They feed mainly on leaves and buds of roses, eating round holes in them and penetrating inside the buds. After completing the period of feeding and development, the caterpillars pupate in leaves rolled into a tube. Depending on the air temperature, the period of development of the cocoon into a butterfly lasts 1-2 weeks. Mass emergence of butterflies is observed in June–July.

Roseate leaf roller caterpillar

Damage caused– affects young shoots, leaves and buds. Rose bushes with damaged leaves lose their decorative look, perforated buds with eaten out pistils and stamens do not bloom, the plant looks weakened. The greatest harm is caused during the growth and development of the caterpillar.

Prevention and control methods:

spring treatment of plants with nitrafen - a product intended to combat the wintering stages of pests (despite the ban, it is sold in flower shops) or DNOC, which is now marketed under the name double strike;
rolled leaves are manually torn off and burned;
treatment of bushes with the preparation Aktar, with a large concentration of caterpillars.

Thrips

Thrips on rose

Rose infected with thrips

Damage caused– feeding on the cell sap of plants, thrips pierce the petals, buds and leaves of the flower. After some time, spores of various fungi enter the formed punctures, the weakened plant begins to ache, wither, and without timely intervention may die. If thrips have settled in an open bud, then dirty yellow spots and scratches appear on the petals, and the flower quickly fades.

Prevention and control methods:

autumn digging of soil under bushes, removal of fallen leaves;
removal of damaged flowers followed by burning;
treating plants with insecticides or nettle infusion.

General recommendations for pest prevention and control

Protecting roses from pests is a set of measures aimed at creating the most favorable conditions for plants, the basis of which is prevention. It is easier to prevent any invasion of harmful insects than to then fight them, and this requires appropriate knowledge about the structural features and lifestyle of uninvited guests of the flower garden. We hope that the publication material will be a reliable help for you and will help you organize effective care for the queen of flowers - the rose.

Diseases and pests cause severe damage to roses and sometimes lead to their death. Therefore, the fight against pathogens and pests should be given exceptional attention. Timely and correct execution Agricultural techniques and protective measures form the basis of preventive plant protection. In this article, we tried to collect information about all the most common diseases and pests of roses and, of course, provided the reader with a complete list of the arsenal to combat them.

Rose. © Agadez

Before you start preventing crops from diseases and pests, you need to remember about your health. To preserve it, pesticides (toxic chemicals) should be used, observing basic rules: use respirators, rubber gloves, use drugs only in prescribed doses. After finishing processing the plants, wash your hands and face with soap and water.

Rose pests

The most dangerous pests are during the growing season of roses, when buds, leaves, shoots and flowers develop on the bushes, serving as food for larvae or adult insects. At this time, plants especially need protection.

Among the gnawing pests for roses, the most dangerous are beetles, caterpillars and sawfly larvae. They violate the integrity of organs, slowing down the growth and development of bushes, reducing flowering. Damage caused by gnawing insects boils down to the following: rough or perforated eating of the pulp, leaving the veins intact;

figurative eating of leaves from the edges;
mining, that is, eating away the leaves of the tunnels inside the tissues;
gnawing passages in stems;
damage to buds and flowers outside;
destruction of stamens and pistils.

Roseate sawfly caterpillars. © Badly Drawn Dad

The mouthparts of sucking pests are adapted for sucking out liquid food. They pierce tissues and suck out cell sap, causing disruption of physiological processes. From such damage, the leaves turn yellow, curl, dry out and die. Particularly common sucking pests of roses include mites, aphids, scale insects, and cicadas (rose whiteflies). The listed pests can appear both in open and protected ground.

It settles on rose bushes in large colonies, located on the underside of leaves, on the stems of young shoots, buds and peduncles. Aphid larvae are very small, barely visible to the eye. They quickly turn into wingless large female founders, who give birth to about a hundred larvae at once, the latter, in turn, being able to give birth to new offspring after eight to ten days. Only ten or more generations per year.

According to the Swiss rose grower S. Olbricht, the generation of one aphid during the growing season can produce about two million individuals. By the end of summer, winged forms of aphids appear - males and females. They lay fertilized overwintering eggs, from which new colonies of aphids emerge in early spring.

Rose aphid. ©Whitney Cranshaw

By sucking the juice from the young organs of roses, insects quickly grow and reproduce. Bushes weakened by aphids grow poorly, shoots often become bent, leaves curl and fall off, and buds do not open or produce ugly flowers. Roses weakened by aphids tolerate wintering conditions worse.

The appearance of aphids on roses can be judged by the increased activity of ants in the rose garden, which drink the sweet juice secreted by the aphids. Ants protect aphid colonies and even organize new colonies, moving the founding females to places not yet inhabited by pests. Aphids are readily eaten by seven-spotted ladybugs. One of them can eat up to 270 aphid larvae per day.

Measures to combat aphids on roses: treatment in early spring before the buds swell with contact insecticides. Later, one of the following insecticides is used: actellik, antio, karbofos, metathion, rogor and others.

Spraying with a solution: 2 g of kerosene per 10 liters of water.

The following infusion is also effective: 300 g of chopped onion or garlic and 400 g of tomato leaves are placed in a three-liter jar. The latter is filled with water and placed in a warm place for 6 hours to infuse. After this, the infusion is mixed well, filtered through gauze or a fine mesh, and in a large bowl the volume is adjusted to 10 liters with water.

To ensure that the infusion adheres well to the leaves and shoots, add 40 g of 72% soap, but preferably liquid green soap. The bushes are treated with this infusion every seven days, repeated five times. It can also be used against ticks, suckers, sawflies, and caterpillars.

Rose leafhopper

Widespread and causes great harm to culture. The leaves become covered with small white dots, become marbled and lose their decorative appearance. Severe leafhopper damage leads to premature yellowing and leaf drop. In autumn, the female lays eggs at the ends of rose shoots. In the spring, larvae hatch from overwintered eggs (they can be seen on the underside of the leaves). These are white, small, sedentary larvae that feed on leaf sap. The body of the leafhopper is white or pale yellow, elongated. Adults are very mobile. At the slightest touch to a leaf, they quickly jump and fly to another place. Two or three generations develop per year.

Measures to combat rose leafhopper: control of leafhoppers is most effective during the mass emergence of larvae. It is recommended to carry out two treatments with insecticides with an interval of 10-12 days, covering the area adjacent to the plantings.

Rose cicada (Edwardsiana rosae). © Sarah Barnes

Slobbering frog, or omnivorous leafhopper

The body of an adult insect is yellow-gray. The larvae live in their foamy secretions in the form of saliva-like foam and suck the juice from the stems. They are located in the axils of the leaves and on their undersides. When touching leaves infested with the pest, the larvae quickly jump out of the foam and hide.

Measures to combat slobbering pennies: spraying with insecticides.

Spider mite on a rose

One of the most dangerous pests roses, especially in greenhouses where it can develop all year round. Adult ticks have four pairs of legs, their body is oval, 0.3-0.5 mm long, greenish-yellow in color with black spots on the back. Winter body color is orange or red. The larvae are greenish with three pairs of legs. The eggs are small, up to 1 mm in diameter, round, transparent, located under a thin web. One female lays up to 180 eggs. After five to seven days, larvae emerge from the eggs. The entire tick development cycle is 10-25 days. An adult tick lives 18-35 days.

Sign of spider mite infestation. © Rasbak

Both adult mites and their larvae damage rose leaves from the underside, causing a sharp disruption of physiological functions and metabolism. Pests suck the juice from the leaves, the affected leaves turn yellow, become covered with small light spots at the injection sites and fall off prematurely. Cobwebs and excrement released by pests contaminate the leaves, and a lot of dust lingers on the leaves. As a result, roses lose their decorative properties.

Females overwinter mainly under plant debris, in greenhouses - under lumps of soil and in other secluded places. In spring, at an air temperature of 12-13°C, females lay barely noticeable transparent cream eggs on the underside of the leaves. IN winter greenhouses Ticks live and reproduce constantly.

Often inexperienced rose growers complain about the yellowness of rose leaves, attributing various kinds of diseases to the plants (chlorosis, etc.). In fact, this is the work of spider mites. You can detect them with a magnifying glass.

Measures to combat spider mites on roses: spraying plants with acrex at a concentration of 0.08% or isophene - 0.05, omaite - 0.1% and other acaricides. The development of mites is inhibited by spraying cold water the lower surface of the leaves 3-4 times a day.

In closed ground conditions, the most harmless drugs are those of the avermectin group: Actofite, Fitoverm, Vermitek. These drugs do not affect eggs and non-feeding, molting, larvae and protonymphs of ticks. At a temperature of +20°C, at least 3 treatments are required with an interval of 9-10 days. At +30°C 3-4 treatments with an interval of 3-4 days.

Leafrollers

Caterpillars of three species of rose budworms and the fruit budworm cause great damage to the leaves and young shoots of roses. The first caterpillars appear early in spring, damaging barely blossoming buds, then young shoots and leaves.

Measures to combat leaf rollers on roses: when the distribution of leafrollers is small, the caterpillars are collected by hand and destroyed. In the spring, before the buds open, the bushes are sprayed with one of the pesticides.

Roseate leaf roller caterpillar. © Gyorgy Csoka

Roseate sawflies

There are two species: the white-banded sawfly and the descending sawfly. The most common is the downward sawfly. False caterpillars, or sawfly larvae, overwinter in cocoons in the soil. In the spring they pupate and adult insects emerge from the pupae. The length of an adult insect is up to 6 mm, its back is shiny, black, its wings are darkish, its legs are black, its legs are yellowish. The sawfly somewhat resembles a bee in structure. Females lay eggs one at a time on the tops of young shoots. Having emerged from the eggs, the false caterpillars bite into a young shoot, make a move up to 4 cm long inside it (from top to bottom) and develop there. The damaged shoot darkens and dries out. In autumn, pseudo-caterpillars descend into the soil for the winter.

Measures to combat sawflies on roses: in the fall, they dig up the soil under the bushes so that the false caterpillars end up on the surface and freeze in winter. Plants are sprayed with one of the pesticides against hatching caterpillars. Pruning and burning of infested shoots is carried out until the larvae emerge from them.

Roseate variable sawfly. © Beentree

Bronzovka and Olenka

Bronze beetles are golden-green with sparse hairs above and copper-red below. Their body length is 15-20 mm. Beetles fly from May to August. Females lay eggs in soil rich in humus, in manure. At the end of summer, the larvae pupate in the soil, beetles emerge from them, overwinter there, and fly out the following summer. Olenka are black beetles, densely covered with grayish hairs with white spots, the body length of the beetle is 8-12 mm.

Bronzovka shaggy, fawn, or shaggy deer. © Beentree

Both beetles eat the petals of rose flowers and eat away the stamens and pistils. Flowers of light colors suffer more from them.

Control measures: collecting beetles early in the morning, when they sit motionless on flowers.

Golden bronze, or common bronze. © Chrumps

Rose diseases

Under unfavorable conditions (lack of light, moisture, mineral nutrition or excess nitrogen fertilizers), roses weaken. At the same time, the resistance of plants to many diseases and pest infestation decreases. Sometimes roses are oppressed to such an extent that they die. Sources of infection with fungal diseases can be stems and leaves remaining on the site after removing dead bushes.

Powdery mildew

Young, actively growing shoots and leaves are more often affected. When the air humidity is below 60% and the temperature is 17-18°C, powdery mildew almost does not appear. A powdery coating of white, ashy or grayish color forms on the surface of leaves, stems, buds and thorns. At first, the plaque is weak, appearing in the form of individual spots, but gradually it grows and forms a continuous mass over the surface of the affected area. As a result of the disease, tissues are destroyed and a number of physiological processes in roses are disrupted, leaves curl, and young sections of shoots die prematurely.

Measures to combat powdery mildew on roses: autumn pruning affected shoots, collecting and burning fallen leaves. Digging the soil with the turnover of the layer - in this case, the pathogens die from a lack of air in the soil. In autumn or early spring (before buds open), after pruning the affected shoots and removing fallen leaves, spray with solutions: 3% iron sulfate with 0.3% potassium sulfate or 3% copper sulfate.

During the growing season, excluding flowering time, they are regularly (every seven to ten days) sprayed with other preparations approved for use on individual farms. For example, with a copper-soap solution: dissolve 200-300 g of liquid green soap (or 72% laundry soap) in 9 liters of soft water (preferably rainwater); Dissolve 20-30 g of copper sulfate in 1 liter of water; While quickly stirring the soap solution, pour a solution of copper sulfate into it in a small stream. The solution is ready for use.

For spraying, use a 1% suspension of colloidal sulfur. Sulfur has a stimulating effect on the growth and development of roses, especially on alkaline soils. This is apparently due to its oxidation and subsequent increase in water-soluble nutrient reserves in the soil. Unilateral application of nitrogen enhances the development of the disease. Top dressing potash fertilizers increases the resistance of roses to powdery mildew. At strong development diseases, you can spray the plants with soda ash (50 g per 10 liters of water).

In addition, in autumn and spring the soil around the rose bushes is sprinkled wood ash(100-120 g per 1 m²) and lightly embed it into the surface layer. Once every seven days in the evening, spray with a five-day infusion of ash (200 g per 10 liters of water) and mullein (1 kg per 10 liters of water). Microelements and bacteria found in ash and slurry destroy the mycelium of the powdery mildew pathogen and contribute to the health of roses. In this way, a biological method of control is carried out and foliar feeding. Spraying is repeated until signs of the disease disappear.

Powdery mildew on a rose. © Scot Nelson

Black spot (Marsonina)

This is a fungal disease that appears as black-brown spots on the leaves of roses. Typically, signs of the disease become noticeable in the second half of summer. Dark brown radiant spots of different sizes form on the leaves, petioles and stipules. With severe infection, the entire leaf darkens, the leaves dry out and fall off. Mycelium and spores overwinter on shoots and leaves.

Measures to combat rose black spot: collecting and burning diseased leaves, pruning and burning diseased shoots, digging up the soil with rotation of the layer, autumn or early spring spraying of roses and soil before buds open with one of the approved preparations.

Black spot, or marsonina, roses. © Svetlana Lisova

Rust

In spring, an orange, dusty mass of spores appears on the stems near the budding leaves and root collar. In summer, small orange-yellow sporulation pads are visible on the underside of the leaves. Rose rust disease is more severe in years with warm and wet springs. As a result, the functions of the vegetative organs are disrupted: transpiration increases, photosynthesis decreases, breathing becomes difficult and metabolism is disrupted. When rust develops, plants become depressed, leaves dry out, stems, shoots and flowers become deformed.

Measures to combat rust on roses: pruning affected shoots, collecting leaves and burning them, digging up the soil, spraying roses before covering them for the winter with Bordeaux mixture or iron sulfate. During the growing season, treat with a copper-soap solution.

Rust on a rosebud. © Nightflyer

Chlorosis

Manifests itself in whitening or yellowing of leaves. The main reasons are a lack of iron, manganese, zinc, magnesium, boron and other elements in the soil. For example, with a lack of iron (usually on carbonate soils), the so-called calcareous form of chlorosis develops. In this case, the chlorotic color spreads over almost the entire leaf, except for the veins. The youngest leaves, the apical ones, are affected first. As the disease progresses, small veins also become discolored. The leaf becomes almost white or white with a cream tint. Subsequently, its tissues die and the leaf falls off.

With a lack of zinc, chlorosis spreads along the entire edge of the leaf and to the tissue between the large lateral veins. Along the central and lateral veins, the leaf retains a green color. At the base of the veins, the green areas of the leaf are wider.

With a lack of magnesium, the lower leaves turn yellow and die, the veins remain green, and the edges of the leaves curl. A lack of boron manifests itself in the light color of young leaves; they become thickened and brittle. Young growing parts become sick, the ends of the shoots (growth points) die. Even with a slight excess of alkali, rose leaves begin to become chlorotic, especially in late autumn and winter period s.

Measures to combat rose chlorosis: Determine the cause of a disease by analyzing the soil or plant. Salts of appropriate nutrients are added to the soil in prescribed doses.

A leaf with chlorosis and a healthy leaf. © Dacnoh

One of the dangerous diseases of roses, especially rose hips. At the beginning of the disease, brown drying spots appear on the upper side of the leaves, and a grayish, barely noticeable coating of fungal spores appears on the lower side. Over time, brown spots become reddish-brown, gray spots gradually turn yellow, then turn brown. Affected tissues die and leaves fall off.

The disease develops especially strongly in rainy and hot times.

Measures to combat rose peronosporosis: To prevent the disease, with the onset of hot and rainy days, the bushes are sprayed with fungicides.

Preparation of solutions for spraying

Amateur flower growers do not always succeed in using a copper-soap solution and a lime-sulfur decoction. To prepare the drug efficiently, carefully follow the following procedure.

For a copper-soap solution, use only warm, soft water, preferably rainwater. If it is not available, add 5 g of soda ash or 2 g of dry mustard per 10 liters of water to soften the water. The solution should not be stored for more than 5 hours - it quickly deteriorates. The solution is prepared at the time of use in a wooden or enamel container.

Dissolve 300 g of liquid green soap in nine liters of hot (50-60 °C) water; in the absence of it, use 72% laundry soap. Then in 1 l hot water dissolve 30 g of copper sulfate.

When hot, pour the copper sulfate solution into a soapy stream in a thin stream. The place where the solutions come into contact is immediately quickly shaken or the liquid is stirred with a wooden stick. The solution turns blue. Before spraying, the drug is cooled to 20-25 ° C. If flakes fall out of the liquid, the solution cannot be used.

Lime-sulfur decoction is prepared as follows. For 17 liters of water, take 2 liters of ground sulfur and 1 liter of good quality quicklime (or 1.5 liters of slaked lime). Lime is slaked in a small amount of water, without bringing it to a violent boil. When the lime heats up, sulfur is added to it and, stirring thoroughly, the rest of the water is added. The mixture is boiled over a fire for about 50 minutes from the moment it boils, until it acquires a cherry-red color.

During boiling, add water to the original volume. Stop adding 15 minutes before the end of cooking. The finished broth is cooled, settled and filtered through a canvas into a glass, earthenware or enamel container. The strength of the decoction is determined with a hydrometer. Typically its density is 1.152-1.162 g/cm3 (10-20° according to Baume).

To spray plants, take 180-220 g of ready-made decoction (concentrate) per 10 liters of water. Two or three days before the start of treatment, do a test spraying of one or two rose bushes. If there are no burns on the plants, the solution can be used for spraying. If burns appear on the bushes, lime should be added to the solution. Store the decoction in a well-sealed container in a cool, dark place.

To prepare 10 liters of 1% Bordeaux mixture, you need to take 100 g of copper sulfate and 100 g of quicklime or 150 g of slaked lime. In one glass, clay, enamel or wooden utensils lime is slaked or diluted (lime milk is obtained), in another - copper sulfate is diluted. Then, slowly, in a thin stream with rapid stirring, pour the copper sulfate solution into the lime milk solution. The resulting mixture is called Bordeaux mixture.

You can determine its suitability for processing as follows: a knife or nail, cleaned of dirt and rust until it shines, is dipped into the prepared solution. If an iron object removed from the solution becomes coated with copper, then lime must be added to the Bordeaux mixture until the plaque stops forming. To prepare 3% Bordeaux mixture, the amount of quicklime is accordingly increased to 300 g, copper sulfate - also to 300 g.

Folk remedies for protecting roses

Since ancient times, people have used original methods of controlling pests and diseases of roses in their gardens. Well-known rose growers also used these methods. N.I. Kichunov, in the fight against various kinds of insect pests, sprayed roses with tobacco decoction (shag), aloe extract, kerosene, etc. I.V. Michurin used milkweed juice or an aqueous extract of its juice to protect roses from rust.

Remedies against rose diseases

To prevent powdery mildew, roses are sprayed with an infusion of mullein and ash. Dilute 1 kg of fresh water in 10 liters of water. cow dung and 200 g of ash, stirring occasionally. Infuse for seven days in a warm place, filter through cheesecloth, and the infusion is ready for use. Spraying with infusion of ash and mullein is carried out with the appearance of the first signs of the disease. If three to four days after spraying the signs of powdery mildew do not disappear, repeat the spraying. It is better to alternate further treatments with infusion with fungicide treatments.

When rust develops, diseased bushes are often burned to prevent the disease from spreading throughout the entire area. An infusion of milkweed can save roses from rust. I.V. Michurin proceeded as follows: he broke off part of the milkweed stem and rubbed the part of the plant affected by rust with the end with a protruding drop of milky juice. The operation was repeated two to three times a day.

If the disease appears on a large number of bushes at once, then do the following. For 10 liters of warm water, take 1.5 kg of milkweed stems, having previously crushed them in a meat grinder or in another way, leave them in a warm place for one day. The concentrated aqueous extract of the juice is drained and used for spraying. The disease usually goes away after the second spraying.

At the state farm “Ornamental Crops” in Kabardino-Balkaria, a case was noted when a rosehip intended for budding turned out to be contaminated with rust. The question was about the inevitable rejection of the entire rootstock. At the suggestion of I.P. Kovtunenko, the rose hips were cut in half and sprayed with a 3% solution of spindle oil. Some time after the treatment, the rootstock turned green and was budded that same year. The roses grown on it were healthy.

Rose pest control products

400 g of shag or tobacco production waste is boiled in 9 liters of water for 30 minutes. The broth is infused in a warm place for two days, filtered through two layers of gauze and canvas to avoid clogging the sprayer fitting. Dissolve 40 g of soap, preferably green, in 1 liter of water and mix with shag decoction. The composition is ready for spraying.

Pass 300 g of chopped onion or garlic and 400 g fresh leaves tomatoes through a meat grinder, infuse in 3 liters of water for 5-6 hours. Strain the infusion. Bring its volume in a large bowl to 10 liters with water, add 40 g of soap. The composition is ready for spraying.

Grind 200 g of dry or 600 g of fresh hot pepper. Pour 2 liters of water into an enamel bowl, add cooked pepper, and boil over low heat for 1 hour. The broth is infused for two days. The pepper particles in the broth are crushed, the broth is drained, and the plant particles are squeezed out. The solution is filtered and brought to 2 liters with water. Pour 1 liter of pepper decoction into 10 liters of water, and add 40 g of diluted soap. The composition is ready for spraying.

Pour 1 kg of dry yarrow leaf or 1.5 kg of dry leaf and wormwood into 10 liters of warm water. Infuse in a dark, warm place for two days, filter. Before spraying, add 40 g of diluted soap to the infusion.

Add 200 g of freshly crushed horse sorrel roots to 10 liters of warm water and leave for 2 hours in a warm place. Before spraying, add 40 g of green soap. The composition is ready for processing plants.

Infuse 500 g of dried datura plant in 10 liters of water for 12 hours. Before spraying, add 40 g of soap.

Y. M. Kara vs. spider mite uses:

2% solutions of a concentrated solution of tobacco, fern leaves, calendula seeds, onion scales;
3% - onion bulbs;
8% - yarrow leaves and marigolds;
15% - wormwood;
20% - potato tops and tradescantia leaves;
25% infusion of bitter nightshade.

According to him, on the third day after treatment, the death of the pest is 71% from the infusion of onion bulbs, 76.8% from onion scales, 81.8% from wormwood, 83.6% from calendula, 84.6% from potato tops, 87.5% - from tradescantia, 88.5% - from fern, 96% - from yarrow, 96.1% - from marigolds, 98% - from nightshade, 100% - from tobacco infusion.

Material used: Sokolov N.I. – Roses.

Roses are demanding when it comes to growing conditions. They need constant careful care, as they are often exposed to diseases and pests. At the first signs of disease, it is necessary to take action, since the spread of diseases from sick to healthy plants occurs very quickly.

The Rosary may perish. The main prevention of spread is strict adherence to cultivation technology. Only in this case can you get beautiful and healthy buds.

1 Diseases in roses

There are a sufficient number of varieties of rose diseases. These are infectious and non-infectious.

Infectious diseases are caused by fungi, viruses or bacteria. Depending on the causative agent, diseases are divided into:

fungal infectious diseases;
viral;
bacterial.

To fungal infectious diseases relate:

infectious burn;
gray rot;
downy mildew;
septoria;
rust.

Viral - rose viral mosaic.

Bacterial - bacterial stem cancer.

1.1 Prevention and treatment

Non-infectious diseases arise as a result of a lack or excess of microelements. The success of treatment depends on correct definition type of disease. Depending on the type of disease, a means of protection should be selected.

Each type has its own unique symptoms, after studying which, you can immediately begin the correct treatment. The success of treatment depends not only on the choice of drug and technique, but also on quick response. Since it has spread over a large area of plants, it is unlikely that they will be saved.

The most common fungal diseases are rust. Vitriol is used to prevent and treat these types of diseases. Vitriol can be copper or iron.

The growing fungus will stop the destructive effect on the flowers. Iron sulfate is ferrous sulfate. Used as a fungicide or soil fertilizer. Copper sulfate is copper sulfate. Used as a fungicide.

2 Application

Iron sulfate is used to prevent and treat erosion. Gives special results in the fight against black spotting. It does its job best when applied in the fall before wrapping the roses. Contains 53% active ingredient.

Before use, you need to make 3 percent working. To do this, iron sulfate (30 grams) is thoroughly dissolved in a small amount of water. The resulting solution must be brought to a total volume of 5 liters using water. Solution consumption when processing roses is 10 liters per 100 square meters. Use immediately.

Apply using a sprayer. Iron sulfate is used in calm, dry weather in the morning or evening. After use there should be no precipitation for 4-5 hours, as precipitation will wash away the drug. The effect of the drug begins two hours after spraying.

The protection period is 10-14 days.

Autumn treatment with iron sulfate prevents the development of diseases in winter. Before processing, remove all leaves and burn the leaves from the rose and burn them. To limit the entry of oxygen into the soil.

To do this, the soil is dug up. This is done to prevent soil contamination. The advantage of this treatment is the absence of sores for 2 years. Disadvantage – leaves burns on plants.

To combat powdery mildew, roses are treated with copper sulfate. Use in spring prevents diseases. Repeat every 8 days. Carry out before flowering begins.When treating roses with copper sulfate in the fall, the proportion is 20 grams diluted in 9 liters of water with the addition of laundry soap.

Advantages: low cost, ease of use and long-lasting results. Disadvantage: burns on rose leaves, toxicity of the drug.

Treating roses with vitriol is necessary for prevention, since it is much more difficult to treat pathogenic microorganisms. To destroy the pathogen, you will have to sacrifice more than one bush of this flower.

Spring is a special period for roses because it is at this time that they open. That is why caring for them must be special, including treating roses in the spring against diseases and pests.

Rules for caring for roses in spring

The weather in spring is quite unstable. For example, the temperature can fluctuate from +20 °C during the day to -5 °C at night. That is why the gardener is faced with the feasible task of preventing the plant from burning, or freezing at night, or the occurrence of diseases. You must ensure the initial growth of the plant, as well as preparation for flowering. And we must not forget that roses must be treated in the spring against diseases and pests.

Comprehensive plant care in spring includes the following components:

bush pruning;
feeding;
watering roses;
spraying bushes against pests and diseases.

Only following the rules of comprehensive rose care will help you end up with a healthy and beautiful plant.

The time frame for care is as follows:

March: removal of winter covering, as well as staking and unhilling of plants;
April: treating roses from pests and diseases, feeding them, propagating and planting new bushes;
May: carrying out disease prevention, fertilizing, pruning plants.

Removing winter covering

Opening roses in the spring cannot be done immediately; it is better to carry out this procedure gradually, little by little accustoming them to full light. It is extremely undesirable when not completely thawed soil is exposed to direct sunlight. This leads to the fact that water from such soil does not flow to the plant, but at the same time evaporation occurs. The result may be drying out of the roses. That is why, first of all, you need to remove the film with insulating materials, and cover the shoots with a cloth that will create shade. This fabric should only be removed when the soil has completely thawed.

Also, you should not open roses too early in the spring, because aggressive winds and low temperatures can damage the plants. But there’s no point in delaying it either. Damping off the bushes is no better.

It is better to remove the shelter in the evening and in cloudy weather.

Unhilling of plants

In March, the first main treatment of plants is carried out, namely their unhilling. In this case, you need to follow the basic rules:

It is advisable to remove unnecessary soil completely or distribute it evenly throughout the rose garden.
It is better to carry out the hilling process in the evening, when the area is not exposed to direct sunlight. This can also be done in cloudy weather with low temperatures.
For hilling, you do not need to rake the existing soil near the bush; it is better to pour in new soil. This will make the unhilling process less painful for the plant.

Rules for pruning roses

How to prune roses in spring? First of all, you need to choose the right time. It is better to do this 3-4 days after the bushes have been opened. The rose needs to be carefully examined and all shoots that can harm the plant, namely diseased, dead, or those that grow inward, must be removed. As a rule, only a small number of strong shoots with buds are left. If you care for the plants correctly, absolutely all the buds will awaken. How many buds should I leave? The choice is entirely up to you. Do you want strong shoots as a result? In this case, it is better to leave a maximum of two buds. If you are satisfied with the low-growing shoots, the quantity can be increased.

When pruning in spring, you must follow the basic rules:

It is recommended to make the cut above the bud, which faces outward. The distance should be about 1 cm.
The tilt angle should be 45°.
Before pruning roses in the spring, you need to carefully prepare your tool. The procedure can only be carried out with perfectly sharp scissors. This condition is necessary to obtain smooth cuts.
To prevent diseases and insect infestations, the cut site must be thoroughly cleaned and all irregularities removed.
All diseased, damaged and dry shoots must be removed. This also applies to shoots that are too thin.
Shoots that are intertwined or located too close to each other must also be removed.

Removing all shoots that are undesirable contributes to good air exchange of the bush and its illumination. This guarantees that fungal and other diseases can be avoided.

Feeding roses in spring

How to feed roses in the spring to avoid their disease? When applying fertilizers, you need to take into account one fact: the rose is a rather whimsical plant that does not like large quantity mineral salts.

Watering the bushes

Roses are very demanding on soil quality. You need to ensure that the humidity is sufficient. If your site has loose soil, effective method drip irrigation will be used.

If it is not possible, the organization must be done manually. This should be done quite rarely, but at the same time quite abundantly. For irrigation you need about 20 liters per 1 m2.

Watering should be done in a special way. For water you need to make holes in the ground around the bush itself. It is in them that you need to water. It is better not to touch the leaves, especially on days when the air temperature is too high. If this is neglected, the result of negligence may be a thermal burn, and subsequently the death of very young shoots.

Spraying bushes against diseases and pests

The optimal time for treating roses in the spring against diseases and pests is the period when the plant begins to actively grow green.

It is better to carry out the treatment a few days after the main treatment, when the rose begins its active growth. It is recommended to use special chemicals.

Copper sulfate - a universal remedy

Particular attention should be paid to how roses should be treated with copper sulfate in the spring. This measure is optimal, since, according to experts, this product causes much less harm than others if the treatment is carried out according to all the rules. Before treating roses in the spring, you need to prepare a solution of copper sulfate. Containers should be taken exclusively glass or plastic. The solution must be of a certain concentration. Usually it is 1% or 3%. It is the latter value that is necessary for spring processing of roses. When working with this product, you must carefully monitor compliance with safety precautions.

Diseases to which roses are susceptible

In order for growing roses to bring you only healthy ones, knowledge of possible plant diseases is required, as well as methods of control and prevention.

Most of the pathogens to which these plants are susceptible have one negative property - they can persist for quite a long time even on dead parts, for example, cut shoots or fallen leaves. That is why the removed parts must be burned immediately.

Roses are susceptible various diseases. The most common ones include:

Powdery mildew - its name comes from the white coating that appears on various parts of the plant. It resembles flour, and when the spores ripen, a liquid is released that is similar to dew drops. The disease can easily spread to neighboring bushes. A bush affected by powdery mildew dies. However, this particular disease is still easier to prevent than to cope with it later.

Causes of diseases

Today there are a number of main reasons why a rose begins to hurt:

Failure to comply with pruning rules, not only in the spring, but also during preparation for wintering. The main mistake is incorrect treatment of the cut site, after which the shoot does not heal.
Watering the plant in the evening, when excess water it just doesn't have time to evaporate.
Location in close proximity to an already infected plant. Most often, a disease of fungal origin can spread from other bushes.
Climatic conditions unsuitable for growing roses. A damp, cool climate can only provoke the spread of fungal disease.
Failure to comply with watering rules. There may be too much water or, conversely, too little.
Insufficient feeding. The disease can be caused by insufficient nutrients in the soil.

Rose treatment methods

The choice of treatment method depends entirely on the cause and nature of the disease:

Fungal diseases are usually treated by removing infected rose leaves and shoots.
You can use sulfur or the drug Funkginex against mold.
Bacterial disease can also be cured by removing diseased parts of the plant.
Spraying the plant with horsetail infusion or a solution of sulfur and slaked lime will help prevent rust and black spotting.
Preventive measures will help protect roses from powdery mildew, in particular, eliminating nitrogen-containing fertilizer. Ash in combination with manure will help cure an already diseased plant.

How to treat roses in spring to protect them from pests? The main drugs are:

"Fitoverm";
"Insecticide";
"Karbofos";
soap solution;
iron or copper sulfate;
nettle infusion.

Preventative measures are always more effective than directly combating the disease. Now you can grow roses in your garden. “How to care for them to get beautiful and healthy flowers?” - this question may become problematic for you. The answers to this can come with experience.