Making a compost pit. Compost pit: construction and arrangement, tips for obtaining compost. What is compost and its value

The better the quality of the soil, the richer the crop grown on this land will be. But it happens that the initial data is not very good, and you have to fertilize the soil. To do this, you can use various fertilizers, but it is best to make a compost pit, which will become a source of environmentally friendly material. Let's consider how to make a compost pit with your own hands: manufacturing options and materials suitable for this purpose.

In order to understand how to properly make a compost pit, you first need to understand what it is used for. Typically, a compost pit is used to dispose of organic waste, which, as a result of the rotting process, turns into organic fertilizer. There are many design options and each owner can only choose the most suitable option for himself.

A compost heap does an excellent job of disposing of mowed grass and fallen leaves. Under the influence of time, moisture and microorganisms, all this turns into fertilizer, which can be used to grow any type of crops both in gardens and in the vegetable garden.

Do compost heap organic fertilizers with your own hands is not at all difficult, especially since for independent implementation there are many ideas that can be used as a basis. You can make your own compost pit using pallets, which are usually used for transportation and storage. building materials. They can be bought at a fairly low price, or it is quite possible to simply find them on your own site.

How to properly make a compost pit at your dacha: choosing a location

Speaking about arranging a compost heap, one cannot fail to mention the importance of its correct location. First of all, the structure must be sufficiently distant from residential buildings. In addition, the place where it is installed should be well blown by the wind to avoid air stagnation and concentration. unpleasant odor emanating from her. In addition, access to the compost must be ensured so that the process of adding raw materials or removing finished fertilizer is as comfortable as possible.

Helpful advice! In order for the rotting process to proceed faster, it is recommended to periodically mix the layers inside the heap. Therefore, even at the stage of planning and arrangement, it is worth considering how this can be accomplished.

In addition, the following criteria for choosing a site suitable for a compost pit must be taken into account:

the selected location should be located at a sufficiently large distance from any sources of drinking water, for example, a well or borehole. The distance between these objects must be at least 25 m;
if the site is not level, but on a slope, then you need to make a compost pit below the water level (preferably at the lowest point of the site). This will prevent the entry of rotting waste and clean water;
You should inquire in advance about the most common direction of the wind, since the pit often becomes a source of a rather strong and unpleasant odor, and can cause discomfort to both you and your neighbors;
It is worth making sure that there is not only a free approach to the pit, but also enough space to be able to bring in waste or remove finished compost using a wheelbarrow.

Helpful advice! It is advisable to choose a shaded place for the compost pit, since sunlight has a negative effect on the rotting process, significantly slowing down the composting process.

What can and cannot be put in a compost bin

In order for the fertilizer obtained as a result of rotting to be of high quality and bring benefits to the plants and not harm, each summer resident needs to familiarize himself in advance with the list of those products that can or cannot be added to the compost. So, the following are great for composting:

grass, weeds, leaves, hay, straw, etc.;
berries, fruits and any peelings from them (raw);
waste from wood products that have not been painted;
paper products (napkins, bags, cardboard) in crushed form;
waste from the preparation of tea, coffee or cereals;
tree branches and roots after grinding;
needles;
herbivore manure (biennial only);
wood ash.

Important! The percentage of compost containing peelings from products such as potatoes and tomatoes should not exceed 15-20%.

any plants that have been affected by pests;
plants affected by diseases of the type powdery mildew, late blight, etc.;
excrement of domestic animals, as they may be contaminated with helminth eggs;
bones and remains from meat products. They will cause an extremely unpleasant odor and will also become food for rats;
inorganic waste - plastic, rubber, synthetic fabrics and metal;
plants that have been treated with herbicides;
the remains of cabbage, the rotting of which provokes an extremely strong and unpleasant odor.

As for composting weeds, experts recommend putting them in a separate pile, which is covered with film on top. Thus, the risk that the plants will take root again is eliminated and you can count on their death with one hundred percent probability.

If you add weeds to the general pile, you often have to deal with the fact that perennial plants take root, especially if as a result regular watering or rain, the humidity is quite high.

Important! To speed up the decay process of waste, it is recommended to first crush it. This is especially true for items such as branches, roots and paper products.

Having figured out what can be put in the compost pit and what cannot, all that remains is to familiarize yourself with the rules for caring for waste in order to ensure that it rots as efficiently as possible. Moreover, the duration of the period during which the compost will be formed directly depends on the correctness of the care:

Humidity is the most important indicator that affects the rotting of waste and the formation of compost. In order to maintain the desired level, it is recommended to periodically water the pile with a watering can. In this case, it is important that the end result is moist, but not wet, since the abundance of water will negatively affect the viability and activity of bacteria;
Once a month you need to thoroughly stir the pile, thus ensuring access to oxygen. This allows the waste not so much to rot as to burn out. At the same time, if it is not possible to completely dig up everything, you can use a pitchfork and pierce the pile in as many places as possible;
To speed up the process of compost maturation, the addition of nitrogen is required, which is found in large quantities in the green parts of plants, as well as in slurry.

For formation quality compost it usually takes 1-1.5 years. During this time, almost any waste and residues will fully decompose. You can tell when the compost is ready visually and by smell. The finished mixture is a crumbly brown mass and has the smell of forest soil.

Compost pit: what is it and what is it for?

The issue of using compost is one of the most popular. After all, not every summer resident knows how and why to use the resulting mixture, and how great its benefits are. In fact, you can fertilize the soil with compost for almost any plant. Cucumbers, peppers, zucchini and pumpkin respond best to this type of feeding. The result can be seen already in the next harvest season - the fruits grow large, have a bright and rich color, the taste and aroma are well expressed.

But there are also plants for which compost is not so beneficial. For example, root vegetables, tomatoes, melons and watermelons should not be fertilized abundantly in this way, since this leads to a decrease in the yield, and on the contrary, the amount of green mass increases.

Strawberries respond well to compost, especially if you first cut them “at the root” and cover them with a semi-decomposed composition. Then all this needs to be watered, and all that remains is to wait for new fresh foliage, as well as a bountiful harvest next season.

Do-it-yourself compost pit: manufacturing options and design requirements

In order to properly build a compost pit, you need to understand how the compost heap should be structured. There are many options for making it yourself, but first of all you should pay attention to the fact that it should consist of three parts. In this case, you need to install 8 support posts, each of which must be treated with a protective agent.

Helpful advice! Machine oil, fuel oil or even tar can be used as a protective composition for posts.

A fence can be used as a fence on one side, but boards are better suited for the rest. Partitions are constructed from them, in which holes for ventilation must be left. This promotes the decay process. It is also necessary to install a door that allows access to the compost.

Setting up a compost pit at your dacha with your own hands involves ensuring the proper level of ventilation and at the same time protecting the contents from precipitation. So that the compost heap does not turn into a swamp, during rainfall it needs to be covered with a special lid of a suitable size. And if weather not too harsh, it is quite acceptable to use plastic film for this purpose.

Another option is to use construction pallets that are pre-disassembled. Using circular saw, the boards can be divided into individual elements, and then assemble a suitable structure from them. In this case, it is better to fasten the boards vertically. The front board can be secured with adhesive. To give such a structure stability, it is necessary to use a building level and level the lower strips.

It is also important that the height of the walls of the homemade composter is such that it is convenient for a person of any height to add, stir and remove compost.

Interesting! You can pay attention to the designs of compost pits made according to Finnish technology. In this case, some of interest are design features, for example, when you remove humus from one compartment, it is automatically filled with raw materials from the adjacent one.

Do-it-yourself compost pit: manufacturing options, photo examples

The type of compost pit is determined based on several factors. One of them is the installation method. Let's consider all existing options:

allocating a specific place for organizing a compost pit. In this case, a pit is initially prepared, which is very similar to a well, but at the same time has a shallower depth. The walls of the pit are additionally strengthened to prevent the soil from shedding and are sheathed at a distance of 20-25 cm from the bottom. This distance is necessary in order to provide the microorganism with free access to the waste;
Another option is installation on garden plot a special container designed to collect waste and process it into compost. This method allows you to get the finished product at any time. This design is based on a pit with formwork, as well as a special box made of boards. When implementing this option, it is extremely important to pay due attention to the organization of ventilation;
a DIY compost heap is the easiest way to solve the problem. To do this, it is enough to make a substrate consisting of sand, gravel and dry grass. Waste is simply placed on top, which will begin to rot on its own over time.

Related article:

Detailed technology for constructing structures: soil preparation, frame manufacturing, its installation and filling.

You can make your own compost bin using many different technologies and instructions. The proposed designs may differ in the materials required for work, dimensions, properties and ease of use.

Helpful advice! Regardless of the type of structure chosen, before you begin laying raw materials inside the structure, it is necessary to thoroughly loosen the bottom and install ventilation holes.

DIY compost bin: manufacturing options and instructions

Before making a compost pit with your own hands, it is advisable to consider as many options and designs as possible that can be used for this purpose. We will analyze in detail the instructions for making the most popular boxes made from various materials.

Garden compost bin: features of installation and operation

A garden composter may well be presented in the form of a large box divided into several sections. Usually they make two or three compartments, but experts strongly recommend choosing the option with three sections, since each of them has its own purpose: the first is used for storing waste, the second is intended for ripening waste, and the third stores finished compost.

Depending on the individual wishes of the owner, the composter can be stationary or mobile (move on wheels). In this case, the recommended height of the box should not exceed 1 meter, and the size of each section should be about 1-1.5 meters.

Important! All wooden elements must be treated with a special protective compound designed to provide the material reliable protection from harmful insects, as well as exposure to moisture.

To make a compost bin with your own hands, you need to follow the following procedure:

8 wooden blocks are dug into the ground;
Using boards, also previously opened with a protective compound, partitions are constructed. To do this, they are attached to supports at some distance from each other.
In the front part, two compartments should be sheathed only to the middle, and only one bottom board should be nailed to the third. The first two have doors mounted on top.
The back and end parts are completely sheathed.
The entire structure is covered with two layers of moisture-resistant paint.
Finally, handles, latches, etc. are attached.

At the bottom of such a box there must be drainage, which may consist, for example, of dry tree branches. Immediately after this, you can proceed directly to placing waste inside the structure.

How to make a compost pit at your dacha using wooden boards

A compost pit is an excellent solution; it won’t spoil it if necessary. appearance plot looking like a pile of waste. The formation of fertilizer in such a design takes much longer, and in order for the process to proceed as correctly and efficiently as possible, it is important to take care in advance about the correct arrangement and ensuring access to the required amount of oxygen.

Work order:

First of all, you need to dig a compost pit, the width of which will be 1.5 m, length 2 m, and depth of about 1 meter.
You need to dig in the corners wooden blocks, keeping a distance of 20 cm from the walls on each side.
In 5 cm increments, boards are attached to these posts.
The resulting box is divided into two parts using a wooden shield.

The bottom of the compost pit is filled with a ten-centimeter layer tree bark, branches and straw. Such a mixture will take on the role of drainage, which will allow drainage excess moisture and additionally ventilate the raw materials.

Initially, only one of the compartments should be filled with waste. Then, when one is half full, the compost needs to be transferred to the second compartment. This procedure will enrich it with oxygen as much as possible.

Important! The bottom and sides of the composter do not need to be covered with anything so that earthworms, which take an active part in the waste processing process, can freely get inside.

How to make a compost bin from slate

Slate is a durable material that is great for creating a structure designed to collect and process organic waste into compost. The procedure for creating a suitable design consists of several stages:

choice suitable place and taking measurements to determine the appropriate pit size;
according to the marks, a not too large recess is dug, in the corners of which supports are installed, for which boards or metal pipes can be used;
sheets of slate are installed around the perimeter of the pit;
Using the same sheets, the resulting container is divided into several parts (two or three).

The use of this design is carried out in accordance with all the same recommendations that are given for compost pits made of wood.

How to make a concrete compost pit at your dacha

If you pay a little more time and attention to the process of arranging a compost pit, then as a result it can last several decades without problems. To do this, it is enough to concrete it. You can do this as follows:

you need to dig a hole about 80 cm deep, 2 m wide and 3 m long;
make formwork inside the pit;
then you need to prepare a solution consisting of sand, gravel and cement. To do this, you need to pour 5 liters of water into a bucket and add 5 kg of sand and cement to it so that the ratio of dry components is 3:1;
the resulting solution is poured into the formwork;
using wooden boards and a chain-link mesh (a metal frame is also suitable), a lid is constructed for the pit.

It is very important that when using boards to mount the cover, there is a distance between the elements necessary for normal ventilation.

Compost pit using Finnish technology: secrets of installing the structure

The main requirement for structures made using Finnish technology is compliance with certain dimensions. The height and width of the box must be the same and be 1 m. This is extremely important, since in a smaller box the raw materials will simply dry out, turning not into compost, but into dust. Big sizes are unacceptable for another reason - in this case there is a risk of burning the contents from too high a temperature.

To make such a structure, it is best to use wood. Slate in this case is not a very suitable option, since structures made from it are characterized by a longer period of waste decomposition. Again, a cheap and at the same time quite convenient option is a Finnish compost pit made from pallets.

Algorithm for assembling a compost pit using Finnish technology:

From pre-processed antiseptics The frame of the box of the required size is assembled from wood.
Then the finished frame is sheathed with boards. The boards are placed tightly only on the partitions separating the compartments. On the side walls, the boards should be spaced with a 1 cm indentation.
The rear wall of the structure is also covered with boards at a distance of 1 cm.
The bottom of the box is covered using a slab. At the same time, it is also important to maintain some distance between the elements so that excess liquid can be effectively drained.
A small door is installed in the lower part of the front wall of the structure, the height of which is usually 30 cm. It is secured using ordinary door hinges.
The roof of the structure is made gable, with one of the slopes attached to hinges so that it simultaneously acts as a door, providing the opportunity to pour waste inside.

Interesting! In one box, the size of which is 1x1 m, you can prepare an amount of compost sufficient to fertilize a plot of land of 5-7 acres.

Compost pit-dry toilet: what is it?

Another special type of compost pit is a dry closet, which can also turn human waste products into compost. It is a structure consisting of two containers, each with a volume of 80 liters.

Using this type of dry closet is as follows: after visiting the toilet, you need to turn a special handle, which is responsible for supplying a portion of a special mixture consisting of peat and sawdust. Thanks to this mechanism, the mixture is distributed evenly and covers up the waste that gets inside.

It is quite possible to use such a composter-dry toilet for recycling not too much food waste, simply by throwing it inside and filling it with dry mixture. When the first container is completely filled, it must be moved away and the second one installed in its place, which can be used in the same way. At this time, the first container will contain a compost mixture, completely ready for use.

Important! The compost obtained in such a composter will be very concentrated. This must be taken into account, and before adding it to the soil, you need to dilute the mixture with soil, sand or peat.

Criteria for choosing a ready-made composter for a summer cottage

At the same time, an increasing number of owners of suburban areas are trying to move away from using homemade designs, giving preference purchased models. Let's consider what advantages and disadvantages ready-made designs have, and what parameters you need to pay special attention to before making a purchase.

In most cases, preference is given to simple and convenient composters that are easy to assemble and operate independently. But since the number of offers is modern market extremely large, independently decide on the most suitable option it can be really difficult. Experts recommend using certain criteria as a guide, since models can be:

collapsible or integral;
with temperature sensor;
with special device, which allows you to loosen the contents;
with a mesh instead of the bottom, which provides protection from rodents;
various shapes and sizes.

Composters also differ in the material that was used for their manufacture. Thus, plastic is the most popular today because it is light in weight, which allows it to be moved around the site without problems, and its service life is extremely long. If the design is planned to be stationary, then you can consider purchasing a metal composter. Wooden models can also be found on sale, but they are not very common due to their short service life and exposure to external factors.

How to choose and buy a compost bin: review of the most popular brands and models

As examples, we can consider several composters that are the most popular and have received many positive feedback from users.

L&T Globe Composter: Features and Specifications

This model is highly valued by permanent residents of country houses, since it can be used throughout the year, and not every product can boast of this. The development of L&T Globe was carried out by Finnish specialists who took into account the harsh weather conditions of the local climate. This allows the composter to function without problems even in the harshest winters.

Another advantage of this model is the absence of small and heavy parts, so operating the device is quite simple. The working volume of the container is 310 liters, and durable polyethylene was used as the manufacturing material. In order for the system to function during the cold season, a 15-mm layer of thermal insulation was provided, which allows maintaining an optimal temperature inside.

Thanks to the low height of this composter, a person of absolutely any height can fill and empty it. Moreover, for even more comfort, the design includes a removable upper part.

Thus, all these design features make it possible to create the most favorable environment for effective waste composting. The microclimate maintained inside the container promotes the growth and development of microorganisms capable of processing waste. The developers did not forget about the ventilation system, which is presented in the form of drainage holes in the bottom of the composter.

Important! The ventilation system of this model can be used in two modes: summer/winter. It is important to make the switch in a timely manner using a shutter specially designed for this.

Bulbeo composter: features and benefits

This model is the development of Italian specialists, which exists on domestic markets in two modifications that differ in size (700 and 900 liters). Initially, this model was intended exclusively for recycling plant waste but, as practice shows, it also copes well with composting other organic waste.

This composter is a collapsible model and consists of separate parts that can be easily assembled and, if necessary, disassembled again. This allows you to move the container from one place to another and even transport it. Moreover, when disassembled, this design takes up very little space and can easily fit in the trunk of a regular car.

Among the main advantages of this choice are:

the ability to gain free access to the structure from six sides;
It is convenient to remove the finished compost thanks to the hinged doors;
This model looks quite aesthetically pleasing on the site, since its shape resembles a blooming bud;
the discreet dark green color allows the structure to fit organically into any landscape design.

The material used for this model is durable plastic, which provides reliable protection of the contents from wind and strong temperature changes. According to the developers, the rounded shape of the walls promotes the ripening of compost.

Of course, there are also ventilation holes to provide access required quantity oxygen. Anyone can easily assemble this model, because it does not require any tools or additional fasteners. The finished structure weighs only 19 kg and its height is 885 mm.

Products for compost pits: features and advantages of use

Having figured out how to make a compost heap, many expect that they will soon be able to use the nutritious fertilizer made in it. But the reality is that the natural ripening of compost can last up to 2 years. Of course, you can just be patient and wait. But you can go the other way by buying special remedy, promoting compost maturation and accelerating this process.

Interesting! The issue of using excipients is especially relevant for those regions of the country where the warm period is short. If warm weather lasts only 2-3 months, then the compost maturation period has to be shortened artificially.

So, there are several drugs that are well suited for this purpose and are recommended not only by specialists, but also by real users. They all have different names but, in general, the principle of their operation is the same. As an example, consider the drug Tamir.

Tamir is an extremely complex drug, which contains the whole complex microorganisms that in the natural environment are responsible for ensuring the decomposition of organic debris and waste. Due to the high concentration of these bacteria, the composting process occurs many times faster, and after 2-3 weeks full maturation occurs.

It is worth noting that compost obtained in this way is not completely decomposed waste and has a slightly different consistency than usual. But its final decomposition will occur directly in the soil, which will bring even greater benefits to the plants.

Important! It is believed that compost obtained as a result of exposure to auxiliary preparations, as a fertilizer, is many times more useful than that obtained naturally. Therefore, answering the common question, is it possible to use products for compost pits, the answer is unequivocal - not only is it possible, but even necessary.

All products of this type are used according to the following technology:

if the pile has not yet been formed, then the drug is added on top of each new layer, after which the whole thing is watered;
in the already prepared heap, you need to make a depression at full height, into which the drug and water are added.

Other ways to speed up compost heap maturation

In addition to complex preparations, you can use other methods to stimulate the processing of organic waste and the maturation of compost in the pit. Let's look at each of them in more detail:

the use of rotted manure, which is quite capable of replacing biochemical preparations intended for composting. At the same time, it is prohibited to use fresh manure, since it can become a source of not only helminth eggs, but also weed seeds, pathogens, etc.;
solution made from regular yeast. To prepare it you will need 1 liter of water and about 1 tablespoon of dry yeast. To this add 200 grams of sugar (1 glass). This solution is poured into the depressions made in the compost heap;
herbal infusion. To improve the effect, it is mixed with chicken droppings or slurry in a ratio of 5:2. It is important to know that the amount of nitrogen contained in fresh bird droppings is much greater than in manure, which means the ratio should be different.

Helpful advice! To ensure that bird droppings regularly fall into the compost heap naturally, you can install a feeder above it. This will greatly facilitate and speed up the process.

Methods to accelerate ripening also include artificial moistening of raw materials, turning them and other measures designed to create the most comfortable microclimate for composting.

How to make a compost pit at your dacha with your own hands

Whatever design is chosen for making compost, it is unlikely that its appearance will ultimately be attractive enough. Chances are, no one wants to look at a compost bin, so it might be helpful to think about how you can use it. original design to improve its appearance.

The problem of camouflaging a compost pit is especially relevant for small areas, since almost the entire territory is in plain sight. Although it happens that even for spacious areas, owners use different strategies decoration to give the compost pit a more attractive appearance. So, in order to hide such an object, you can use:

camouflage with plants and hedges;
artificial decorations and stationary fencing.

Work related to the manufacture of artificial fences must be carried out in an open area located at some distance from the location of the compost pit. This is necessary in order to make it more convenient to work and to be able to move freely without being exposed to discomfort from the smell emitted by the heap.

The main requirement for such a fence is that it should hide the entire site from the eyes of guests and owners. That is, the compost heap should be completely hidden behind it, and the appearance of the fence should be as attractive as possible and be in harmony with the environment.

It takes much longer and to some extent more difficult to create hedges for this purpose. But they look much more natural and elegant. The main thing is to pay attention to the choice suitable plant so that in the end the hedge is not too bulky and lush, and does not break the overall structure of the site.

Helpful advice! You can use light translucent screens entwined with vines as a fence. They cope with the task perfectly, and at the same time do not take up much space, so they are quite suitable for both large and small areas.

The best ideas for decorating a silo pit

Other elements, for example, special screens or screens, can be used to disguise the place where the compost heap is located. Bamboo fences have proven themselves to be excellent. Plants also look good if you carefully plant them in a row.

At the same time, it is strictly forbidden to build a compost pit directly under fruit trees, as this can lead to their death. You need to maintain some distance between the compost and the plants.

The most popular design methods are:

planted in a row fruit trees and berry bushes;
potted gardens placed on several levels to hide the entire structure;
installation of a small architectural object: a gazebo or a fenced barbecue (of course, in this case it is worth taking care that the unpleasant smell of rotting waste does not interfere);
flower beds with tall plants;
supporting wall.

Separately, it is worth noting the camouflage of compost heaps in the event that they were used Plastic container. In this case, it is not at all necessary to completely mask it. You can use it as a decoration for your area by painting it in a bright color and planting it around beautiful flowers. You can draw any design on such a container, thus giving it originality.

The easiest way to work is with small compost pits, which can be hidden with an abundance of flowers or even shrubs. By the way, a compost yard is a great place to experiment with growing new varieties of annual plants.

You can clearly see how composters for a summer residence are made and designed with your own hands by watching training lessons and detailed instructions. You just need to decide which design is best suited in a particular case, and also take into account your own individual requirements and wishes. Otherwise, no problems will arise, since there are as many options for do-it-yourself compost pits as there are ready-made models.

How to make a compost pit with your own hands: video instructions

Stocking up on enough organic fertilizers for your garden is not a problem for those experienced summer residents who know how to make compost with their own hands from what is, as they say, “at hand.” By the way, self-cooking In addition to the quality of the resulting useful fertilizer, compost has another undoubted advantage. This method helps to get rid of plant and food residues on the farm. And with maximum benefit and absolutely waste-free.

Many gardeners think that it doesn’t matter at all what and how to make compost. But this is a wrong opinion. The ingredients included in the composter directly determine how useful(!) and nutritious the fertilizer you receive will be, and whether it will harm your plants.

Do-it-yourself compost: how to make it and what you need to know

Proper compost is a wonderful organic fertilizer obtained by long-term rotting of various plant and household residues. All this rotting occurs under the influence of bacteria. But don't forget that composting isn't about randomly throwing everything you want to get rid of into a pile. Therefore, it is quite a mistake to call a mountain of garbage in a country house, consisting of potato tops, dry tree branches or rhizomes from cabbage heads, proud of the word compost. And also other reluctantly decomposing or downright infectious garbage.

On a note! If you really want to do useful fertilizer, then it will be useful to find out whether this or that material can be recycled into compost. By the way, especially in the fall, many people are interested in whether it is possible to put fallen leaves in a compost heap.

What is compost made of?

The compost mixture consists of two types of components responsible for different processes during processing:

Nitrogenous components:

Mown plant matter and carrion.
Food waste of plant origin.
Manure or droppings.
Weeds without seeds.

They are responsible for the carbon-oxygen balance necessary for the maturation of grass compost.

Carbon components:

Wood shavings and shredded wood, including bark.
Branch cuttings and thin trunks.
Straw and dry leaves.
Paper and cardboard waste.

Attention! They should be placed in the compost heap in layers, alternating “green” wet waste with dry “brown” waste. If the proportions (1:1) are observed, the heat generated by nitrogenous products stimulates the processes of decomposition of the compost mixture.

What not to put in compost

Of course, any summer resident wants to completely get rid of the weed piles after weeding or the tops that appear en masse in the garden in the second half of summer, after the harvest begins. Just a question... Is it possible to compost everything without exception? Or are there still some residues harmful to composting?

It turns out that even here there are certain limitations, and each of them has a completely reasonable explanation. So, in proper compost It is strongly recommended not to dispose of:

Large pieces of wood, trimming evergreen shrubs, fallen leaves in season. Their rotting lasts for a long time, inhibiting the entire cycle of maturation of compost from leaves.
Any parts of affected plants. They easily adapt to any conditions and thrive in a compost environment.
Remains of castor bean, lily of the valley, foxglove.
Do not put tops of nightshade plants (tomatoes, potatoes) into compost. They contain poisons that poison the microorganisms involved in composting, thereby slowing down the entire process.
The peel of any citrus fruit - it not only takes a long time to rot, but also strongly repels earthworms and bacteria.
Food waste of animal origin, as well as feces. All this decomposes very reluctantly in the compost heap, and it gives off disgusting odors.

And, of course, what kind of compost can you get if you throw non-degradable household waste into it from:

Glass and plastic.
Plastic or synthetic fabrics.
Large bones, etc.!

Important! In fact, the composition and beneficial features future “homemade” fertilizer.

DIY compost: cooking methods

It is worth noting that there is a significant difference in the methods of making compost at the beginning of the gardening season and at the end. In general, if you look more broadly, then the conversation needs to be about two completely different technologies. They differ in both labor intensity and processing time.

Quick compost in bags

This is a more modern and less expensive way to obtain high-quality fertilizer in a short time. It is especially popular because it does not require the preparation of pits, boxes or the purchase of special containers. After all, this compost is processed in ordinary bags!

Advice! To make quick compost in bags, it is, of course, better to choose stronger packaging. You can use construction waste bags as a composter. It is desirable that they do not stretch and withstand dampness and sudden temperature changes. But, for lack of anything better, many summer residents use ordinary garbage bags of 120-250 liters.

In preparing quick compost in bags, the same “useful” waste of plant origin is used: leaves, grass, carrion, etc. They are crushed and placed in bags in dense layers, sprinkled with earth.

We remember that tomato tops in compost not used!

But do not forget that the entire mass of plant waste, folded into bags, needs to be slightly moistened. Tara with ready-made mixture sealed tightly and left where it will be stored for 2-3 months.

This method is very good, especially for making compost in the fall. When the waste at the dacha has accumulated in excess, and there is not much time left to process it. At the end, after a maximum of three months, the bags contain rotted, loose fertilizer with a characteristic smell of rotten earth.

Important! It is this smell, combined with the loose consistency and black-brown color of the compost mass, that indicates that the compost is ripe and ready for use.

How to make compost in a box or hole

An old-fashioned, centuries-tested option answers the question: “How to prepare compost if you have a lot of time.” Because you need to wait from 9 months to a year to get results. Yes, and you will have to tinker a lot more than in the case of bags.

The entire technological cycle of compost preparation can be summarized in 5 simple steps.

Find a place in the shade, but away from trees.
Install a ventilated fence made of boards or chain-link mesh. This can be done not only on the surface of the earth. For this purpose, you can dig a hole up to a meter deep and approximately 1.5x2m in size.
Lay the prepared waste in layers and sprinkle it well with water.
Cover the finished pile with dark, breathable material, such as acrylic or regular straw.

Do not forget! Regularly open the compost chamber and thoroughly mix the contents so that decomposition proceeds faster and more evenly.

How to speed up compost maturation

To activate the processes and reduce the acidity of the compost mass, 1 liter of ash and several grams of ammonium nitrate are added to it. To make compost as quickly as possible, it is recommended to use all kinds of EM preparations. The effective microorganisms and bacteria contained in them help to significantly reduce the compost maturation time, accelerating the process of decomposition of organic matter.

What is your benefit?

The advantages of preparing compost include the large volume of processed mass. If the pit is equipped with a partition, then you can transfer the finished humus into a separate compartment and constantly replenish the storage with new waste.

In addition, composting is carried out in the same place for many years. And also, there is no need to constantly purchase packaging, as is the case with compost in bags.

Video: How to make good compost

Whichever method you choose, composting plant waste from your site will in any case be very useful for you. Now you know how to make compost with your own hands and get rid of garbage, turning it into high-quality fertilizer of your own production.

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Summer residents are well aware that organic waste should not be thrown away from their plots. They can become healthy, environmentally friendly pure fertilizer. For their proper processing, so-called compost is created. This fertilizer is obtained as a result of the decomposition of organic substances under the influence of various microorganisms. Compost can be added to any soil to improve its quality. For example, when using compost on clay soil, you can achieve the effect of crumbly soil, and sand, when mixed with this fertilizer, will retain water much better.

DIY compost pit

Incredibly, almost all structures used to create compost are called compost pit. However, in reality it is not always just a hole.

Using a compost pit (or heap).
Using a special compost container.

The first method has already become classic. It is popular due to its small financial costs and ease of organizing the process. To create such a hole, they make about a half-meter depression in the ground, and the resulting volume is filled with organic waste, from which it is supposed to create future fertilizer.

The top of the pit is covered with black film. Often along the edges the polyethylene is attached to long strips or cuttings that help hold the film in place. The presence of such cuttings also helps with the further exploitation of the contents of the pit. With their help, it is convenient to remove the film and return it to its place.

In cases where a compost heap is used, the latter is covered with a special wire mesh (a kind of frame is made). Water and oxygen penetrate perfectly through such a mesh, enriching the fertilizer and promoting the development of microorganisms.

But this method also has disadvantages. It is quite difficult to mix. If the pile is large, then it will not be able to warm up well. All this can lead to an increase in the “ripening” period of the fertilizer.

Closed compost bins vary in size, number of containers, color and material from which they are made. You can make such a container yourself, but you can also purchase it at a specialized store. Typically, a distinctive feature of such boxes is a drum that allows you to turn the contents of the container, as well as a hose for adding water to the box. Another advantage is that the containers are protected from unwanted pests getting inside.

The most basic of existing containers is a single-section one. In such a container, substances are placed from above, and the finished compost is taken from below. To do this, a hole with a removable (opening) door is made at the bottom of one of the walls of the container. If you leave a distance of about 40 cm between the container and the surface of the earth, then the compost will not need to be mixed.

A two-section box consists of two equal halves. As a rule, the finished substrate is stored in the first compartment, and “fresh” waste is placed in the second. For such boxes a hinged lid is provided. The main condition is that it must fit tightly to the box, securely covering its contents.

Such boxes are most often made from boards, metal, slate, plastic and other materials. To place such a box, metal supports (or pillars) are dug into the hole underneath it. Thick metal rods are also suitable as supports, but wooden poles It is prohibited to place, because Wood can easily rot and the box will eventually simply fall. Metal parts must be processed anti-corrosion coating, and if there are any parts made of wood, the latter must be impregnated with a protective compound and painted twice.

Many summer residents make a box of three compartments. In this case, mature compost is placed in the first compartment, the second is filled with medium-ready compost, and new organic matter is placed in the third.

Concrete box is one of the most durable structures. It is built once and long term. Formwork is constructed over a trench or hole approximately 0.8 m deep. Then it is filled with concrete. Ultimately, the formwork is removed and the soil is removed from the container. Instead of a lid, it is recommended to use a wooden shield or dark polyethylene, pressed with a metal mesh.

A plastic box is a ready-made structure equipped with ventilation (holes), a lid and different options sizes. They are relatively inexpensive and will last quite a long time.

The ideal parameters for a compost bin are one and a half by two meters, but they can vary due to the volume of organic matter that is planned for processing in a two-year period (this is the amount of time the entire process of creating fertilizer takes).

It is important to consider that the smaller the size of the box, the slower and worse the process of heating the substrate will be. Because of this, all toxic substances arising from decay will simply not be destroyed. It has been established that the temperature inside the compost bin cannot fall below 60 degrees.

The location of the box can be selected based on two criteria: remoteness and the use of the area used for other needs. In other words, the box is built in the farthest and most inconspicuous corner with infertile soil or in a very shaded place unsuitable for growing crops.
It is important to remember the following nuances when choosing a location. Rotting organic matter smells extremely unpleasant. Their stench will disturb not only the owner of the site, but also the neighbors.

The pit must be easily accessible. You will need to use these fertilizers throughout the year. It is important to prevent situations where water stagnates. For this reason, it is best to choose the most level areas for such structures.

Such a pit must be raised above the ground level in order to facilitate its mixing, heating and the process of adding water to the contents. It is not recommended to build a pit near the source from which you collect drinking water to prevent penetration into it harmful substances produced as a result of decay.

Do not install the box in a bright sunny place. The sun's rays can dry out the substrate and slow down the entire process. The box should be placed in a shady place. The source used to collect drinking water should be located as far as possible from the compost pit. A distance of 25 meters or more is considered optimal. It is extremely dangerous to compost under the canopy of trees. Such a neighborhood can destroy a tree. Coniferous plants are especially sensitive to toxins released during decay. But birch will be more resistant to their effects.

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The soil directly under the hole must be thoroughly cleared, removing any vegetation, and then a small depression (about 0.3 m) must be made.

When laying compost, green and brown layers of the substrate alternate. Also alternate wet layers with dry ones. In this case, there should be three times less green layers than brown ones, and five parts less dry than wet.

It is worth considering that all large elements of raw materials should be crushed in advance.

The residues used are usually divided into two types:

The brown type includes: leaves, thin branches, sawdust, rags (made from woolen fabrics or cotton), newspapers, cardboard or paper, plant roots, ash, grass, old rotten wood, etc. It is believed that all these wastes will emit when rotting carbon.
The green type includes: fruits of plants from berries to vegetables, squeezes from ground coffee, tea leaves, leftover food (especially porridges or soups), egg shells, feces herbivores. It is important to remember that if there is too much regular green grass, the compost production process will slow down significantly. In this case, it is recommended to sprinkle the grass layers with soil.

The following substances can significantly increase the speed of fertilizer preparation: rotted waste products of horses, certain plants (for example, dandelions or mint), special substances (for example, Compostin), dry bird feces, ground bones, various fertilizers, etc.

Not all organic matter is useful in compost production. Thus, a compost pit does not allow the use of: the waste products of pets, some weeds (for example, loach or wheatgrass), pest-infested plants (or parts thereof), plants after treatment with pesticides, non-degradable garbage (inorganic), fats, eggs, milk and its derivatives and others.
All items and substances that cannot be placed in the compost bin are disposed of as household waste or they are placed in a cesspool.

Correct exploitation compost pit

You need to know not only how to fill the hole with the necessary organic substances, but also how to operate it, how to speed up decay or improve the quality of fertilizer. For a more productive result, it is recommended to adhere to the following instructions:

The contents of the pit (container) need to be moistened periodically, but it is important not to overdo it with adding water. The substrate should remain moist, but nothing more. You shouldn't keep it dry either. The rotting process will stop.
The compost needs to be periodically pierced and stirred with a fork. This will improve oxygen penetration, which will have a positive effect on the process as a whole.
It is very important to cover the contents of the pit with black film. This will speed up the compost creation process.
The presence of earthworms in the compost has a positive effect on the process. They can even be artificially placed in the pit.
The compost needs to be stirred quite often.

As the contents of the pit rot, the temperature inside it rises. In some cases, this process produces steam. If it rises from the pile, it demonstrates to the owner that the composting process is proceeding as expected.

IN autumn period compost pit requires special attention. By this time the bottom layer is ready for use. It is recommended to remove it from the hole and use it to cover flower beds with perennial plants. Upper layer can be removed and stored separately.

It is very convenient to use old boxes or pallets to sort compost. It is necessary to sort the substrate. This will speed up the compost production and make it more uniform.

Experienced summer residents advise covering compost bins and heaps not with a whole black film, but charmingly making holes in it. This allows you to maintain a stable temperature and humidity inside the pit, and also promotes air circulation.

Creating a compost pit is quite a labor-intensive process, but it is worth it. With the help of such pits you can dispose great amount waste of organic origin, while receiving extremely valuable fertilizer, the quality of which will not have to be doubted.

Before you start preparing compost, I suggest you familiarize yourself with the conditions that are often allowed when making this organic fertilizer.

At a summer cottage where vegetables, fruits and berries are constantly grown, additional feeding is always needed. Use regular mineral fertilizers It is not advisable for your family, except in small quantities. They change the physical and chemical parameters of the soil and contribute to acidification of the site.

Organic fertilizers are more expensive, but they restore soil well and stimulate crop growth. One of them - compost - can be made from components that can be found in abundance in any country house, and setting up a compost pit with your own hands will require little financial investment and a little time. But at any moment there will be something to feed the plants on the site.

The benefits of compost and how the fertilizer works

Compost is plant residues processed by soil microorganisms and earthworms. Passing through the digestive tract, beneficial nutrients - nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus and other trace elements receive an organic shell.

In it they are better preserved and better absorbed by plants. People have learned to produce such fertilizers artificial method. They are called chelate, but they are expensive. For large plot Many complex mixtures are required, which significantly increases the cost of the crop.

If you make a compost pit correctly and learn how to lay compost for maturation, you can significantly reduce the cost of renewing the land and increase the yield for free.

Raw materials for composting

Everything can be composted:

leaves;

green freshly cut grass;

manure;

branches, sawdust, bark, paper;

algae and other pond plants;

peat;

fecal matter from the sewer.

It is better to take several components. It is desirable that the composition include nitrogen and carbohydrate ingredients, as well as soil from the site. Nitrogenous substances include: fresh grass, manure or droppings, fresh vegetables, fruits. Carbonaceous components include paper, dry grass, sawdust, straw, and cardboard.

Ash adds nutritional value. To make the compost more saturated, you can add complex or single-component mineral fertilizers at the end. In any case, compost will help increase the amount of humus in the soil and revitalize the soil with the help of bacteria.

Composting methods – with and without oxygen

There are two methods of composting – aerobic and anaerobic. In the first case, microorganisms work that require oxygen to live. Such bacteria live in the soil and decompose plant debris - grass, roots, manure.

To obtain aerobic fertilizer, you need to know how to properly make a compost pit with your own hands to ensure air access. In addition, the mixture must be periodically loosened and turned over so that oxygen reaches all components. The disadvantage of the aerobic method is that some of the nutrients are eroded or oxidized and are not beneficial, as well as time-consuming.

Video: How to make a compost pit with your own hands

Another method is anaerobic. This is the fermentation of components without air access. How to make a compost pit at your dacha like this: to prevent oxygen from penetrating inside:

the material should be tightly knitted, and the inside can be lined with film;

the components are stacked tightly and compacted to remove excess air.

The top of such a collar is sealed with a film, which is pressed to the ground with heavy stones or earth. Further, the process occurs without human intervention. The advantage of this method is that almost all nutrients are preserved. The downside is that it is difficult to achieve complete sealing of compost pits. Sometimes it is better to buy a container for storing raw materials.

Types of composters

A simple DIY compost bin can be made in one day. No special materials or tools - whatever is at hand will do - boards, slate, plastic panels, plexiglass, mesh.

It is necessary to decide which method of making compost will be a priority: aerobic or anaerobic. If the first, then there are more options for making a compost heap with your own hands. If it is anaerobic, then every effort will have to be made to make the structure airtight. You may have to use concreting, but such a collar will last a long time.

Classic earthen pit

A compost pit is made in the ground as a recess no more than 50 cm, to make it convenient to care for the ripening mixture. The sizes are arbitrary. You can make any length and width.

More often, this design is used for anaerobic fermentation, but for this it is necessary to concrete the walls and bottom. The fact is that when plant residues decompose, liquid flows down. If the bottom is left open, the nutrients will disappear and be absorbed into the soil. But if you put a layer of earth, straw or peat on a closed bottom, they will be preserved and will benefit the plants.

The easiest way to make a compost pit is from concrete ring. For this:

Digging a shallow hole - 60 cm.

The bottom is filled with solution and allowed to dry.

A concrete ring is installed using a crane or tractor height 90 cm.

Plaster the connection between the bottom and the ring.

The convenience is that the edges will rise above ground level and prevent sediment from getting into the compost. The concrete can be painted any color or decorated as you wish to create a beautiful compost pit - you can plant tall plants around the concrete ring with your own hands, and they will hide the storage. If desired, a ceiling with a hole for a hatch is installed on the ring.

Slate pile

If you have it lying around old slate, it can be strengthened on boards and made into walls for a compost pit. This will not be quite a hole, since it is located on the surface of the earth. More like a pile or a heap, but decorated and protected. A do-it-yourself slate compost pit is suitable for the aerobic (oxygen) method of making compost.

Stages of work:

Select a location and make preliminary markings - length, width. The height of the collar should be no higher than 1.5 m. At higher altitudes, air will be less able to get inside and ripening will slow down. The raw materials may even rot or sour.

Dig holes in the corners with a drill and place pillars.

Nail boards between the posts to hold the slate.

Using a drill, carefully make holes in the slate and attach it to the boards.

On one side, the height is made smaller to make it convenient to get ready compost. The roof must be done, because rain will disrupt the maturation of the mixture.

The bottom is made as desired - open or closed. Peat, soil, chopped branches or sawdust, and straw can be used as drainage.

DIY board composter

A DIY compost pit made from boards is the most common method. First, markings are made and corner posts are installed. Below is one of the options:

the arrangement of the boards is dense, without holes for air - more suitable for cold storage of manure or anaerobic composting;

with air holes - they can be up to 5 cm wide.

It is better to make the composter mobile - on wheels, so that winter time it could be hidden in a warm place. When the temperature drops, bacteria slow down their activity and the maturation of the mixture is disrupted. In warm weather, the process continues and by spring the fertilizer will be ready.

If you use worms for composting, then the most effective look are red Californian worms. They reproduce quickly and eat a lot, but cannot tolerate low temperatures. They die in mid-latitudes. Vermicompost is prepared in a warm room with good ventilation. In summer the box is put outside, and in winter it is kept warm.

Mesh compost pile

An economical version of a composter - from a regular one metal mesh. It is fixed on poles or metal pipes, dug into the ground. The advantage is that the collar is completely open on all sides to air. To speed up the maturation of compost, it is advisable to add a solution of EM preparations when forming layers.

Sealed plastic container

Sealed containers are used for anaerobic fermentation of components or silage of grass. Such composters look presentable and aesthetically pleasing and do not spoil the appearance of the site. The downside is that you cannot increase the volume, and you will also have to loosen the layers when preparing aerobic compost.

Septic well as a composter

There is a technology in which fecal matter is processed by anaerobic bacteria and becomes organic fertilizer. But for this you need to comply with the following condition: do not pour water from the well into the well. detergents and chlorine, since these substances cause the death of microorganisms.

At the dacha there is always a lot of waste that can be easily turned into fertilizer. All that is required is a compost heap or a DIY compost pit, into which you need to regularly collect plants and organic waste. After two seasons, they will rot and turn into compost, suitable for fertilizing all garden plants and gardens. Detailed instructions How to properly build a compost pit and heap can be found in the article below.

Benefits of using compost in your summer cottage

Although creating compost is time-consuming, the effort is always worth it. The benefits of making compost in a DIY compost bin are as follows:

Environmental friendliness. Compost is a natural fertilizer for plants.
Improving soil quality. Thanks to the use of compost clay soils become looser and allow more air to pass through. If there is a lot of sand in the summer cottage, thanks to compost it will retain more moisture, which will increase its fertility.
No need to pay money. Compost can be obtained free of charge from food waste and plants that grow in your summer cottage. But you will have to pay for manure and mineral fertilizers.
The ability to profitably dispose of organic waste and keep the area clean. Grass, weeds and leaves will in any case grow in the summer cottage and to maintain cleanliness they must be taken somewhere or burned. If you throw them into a compost pit or on a compost heap - without extra effort is formed useful compost, but will be transformed into an attractive place for relaxation and growing vegetables.

How to make a compost pit and heap with your own hands?

First of all, it should be noted that a compost pit and a compost heap are not very good ideas for producing compost. If you create a waste pit directly in the soil, the compost will take a very long time to create, since the rotting process will slow down due to the presence of moisture and lack of ventilation. If you simply pour organic waste in the form of a heap, the decay process will proceed unevenly, and a lot of heat will escape into the atmosphere.

A proper compost pit or heap is a structure (box) made of wooden planks, buried 50 cm into the soil and raised 1 meter above the ground. Organic waste and garbage must be thrown inside such a box. summer cottage. Under the influence of heat, it will gradually begin to rot and after six months, nutritious compost will be formed from the garbage.

But before you make a compost pit, you need to remember a few rules:

To enhance the rotting process, the compost bin must be built in a shaded area away from the house (it is worth remembering that rotting produces a very unpleasant odor). You should not organize a compost pit near trees - an excess of nutrients in the soil can cause their death.
The compost pit should be located at a distance of 25 meters from the well so that substances formed during the decay process do not get into drinking water. But it can draw water from a well located in close proximity to the compost pit.
You should not make a compost heap in an area where water collects. This will slow down the compost formation process.
Ideal sizes pits - 1.5 by 2 meters. If you make the pit small, the waste in it will not warm up, and the rotting process will proceed slowly. A very large hole will require a lot of waste.
It is recommended to divide the compost pit into 2 sections. The first section can be used immediately after construction, and waste should only be thrown into the second section starting next year.
You cannot lay polyethylene at the bottom of the pit. It is better to throw hay or small branches there.
It is necessary to build a lid on top of the compost pit or cover it with a piece of roofing felt. Can be used for mulching.
About twice a month, the contents of the pit must be mixed so that the rotting process occurs evenly.

You can use compost from a self-made compost pit in the new season. But for it to be as nutritious as possible, rotting must last at least 2 years.

What kind of waste can be sent to the compost pit and compost heap?

A self-built compost pit is intended only for plant waste. You can drop there:

leaves and thin branches that are raked from under the trees;
wood sawdust, shavings and bark;
cotton rags;
cardboard and paper;
plant roots;
ash;
cut grass;
flower stems;
all food waste of plant origin, including tea bags and eggshells;
scraps of pet hair.

The compost heap should not contain animal products and animal feces, mineral fertilizers, or weeds on which seeds have already ripened. The compost should not contain plants with a long period of decay (this includes potato tops and tomatoes). Also, you should not throw bushes of plants affected by diseases into the compost pit - it is better to dry them and burn them directly in the beds.