Modern system warm water floors are a very effective pipe-based design, the basic task of which is to provide high-quality heating of the surface of the floor covering, followed by the most uniform redistribution of warm air masses over the area of the entire heated room.
Supporters of underfloor heating note that there are many advantages when using water heating of rooms, the main of which are:
- high degree of energy efficiency:
- stable indicators of reliability and safety of a correctly installed system;
- good potential for use as a main heating system;
- excellent compatibility with any variety of modern flooring materials, including ceramics, laminated and parquet boards, as well as all types of linoleum.
In addition, this category of heated floors is characterized by inconspicuousness and the absence of harmful indicators. electromagnetic radiation in combination with high level comfort. To be fair, it should be noted that the installation of such floors is different high cost and requires the involvement of specialists of a certain qualification not only to install the system, but also to perform repair work.
System components
Properly designed water system“warm floor” under standard conditions is represented by a water type circuit, equipped with a manifold and thermal junction, which includes a heat exchanger, hydraulic pump, expansion tank and safety group.
The coolants in such a system are hot water from the central heating system and elements of the water heating structure, and the regulating function is performed by a special heat exchanger. The hydraulic pump ensures the circulation of the coolant under the conditions of the installed water circuit, and the expansion tank helps compensate for the excess coolant, which can be caused by a high level of heating.
The operation of such a system would be unstable without the functioning of a special safety group, represented by a pressure gauge, an automatic air vent and safety valve. A special group is mounted at the highest point and protects closed type systems from the formation of airing processes or too high levels of intra-system pressure.
Set of water heated floors for 15 m2
| Name | Qty | Cost, rub. |
|---|---|---|
| MP pipe Valtec. 16(2.0) | 100 m | 3 580 |
| Plasticizer. Silar (10l) | 2x10 l | 1 611 |
| Damper tape. Energoflex Super 10/0.1-25 | 2x10 m | 1 316 |
| Thermal insulation. TP - 5/1.2-16 | 18 m2 | 2 648 |
| Three-way mixing valve. MIX 03 ¾” | 1 | 1 400 |
| Circulation pump. UPC 25-40 | 1 | 2 715 |
| Nipple adapter. VT 580 1”x3/4” | 1 | 56,6 |
| Nipple adapter. VT 580 1”x1/2” | 1 | 56,6 |
| Ball valve. VT 218 ½” | 1 | 93,4 |
| Straight connector with transition to internal thread. VTm 302 16x ½” | 2 | 135,4 |
| Ball valve. VT 219 ½” | 1 | 93,4 |
| Tee VT 130 ½” | 1 | 63 |
| Keg VT 652 ½”x60 | 1 | 63 |
| H-B adapter | VT 581 ¾”x ½” | 30,1 |
| Total | 13 861.5 |
Calculation and selection of materials
Each room requires separate calculations to determine the quantity Supplies based on taking into account the length of the pipes, as well as the step during their installation. For this purpose, it is advisable to use special computer programs or use ready-made design documentation developed by specialists.
underfloor heating pipe
Independent power calculations are classified as complex, due to the need to take into account a lot of parameters and nuances. Even minor defects can cause insufficient or uneven circulation of water along the circuit, and in some cases, the formation of local areas of heat leakage is possible.
The calculations are based on the use of several parameters:
- room area;
- characteristics of the material used for the construction of walls and ceilings;
- presence and category of thermal insulation of the room;
- type of heat-insulating layer under the system itself;
- flooring materials;
- characteristics and parameters of pipes in the system;
- temperature indicators of water entering the system.
The most important step before purchasing the material is the competent choice of coolants, represented by pipes in such a system. The following types are popular:
- cross-linked type of polyethylene pipes. Are obtained under high pressure and are characterized by a high level of strength. Optimally resistant to any type of mechanical damage, temperature changes and pressure instability;
- metal-plastic pipes. Perfectly combines the main positive traits steel and polymers. Not susceptible to rust and resistant to adverse external influences;
- copper pipes with plastic sheath. They are characterized by maximum durability, which is due to the use of high-strength metals in the production process.
Modern water heated floor systems can be implemented using several of the most common installation options:
- installation with a snake. An option for laying pipes along one of the walls with a rounding at the end point and a change in direction, as a result of which the entire area of the room is covered. The main difficulty lies in the specific design of the turning zones;
- double snake installation. An option performed by analogy with the previous method, but during the installation process a pair of parallel pipes is used with a pitch of three centimeters;
- installation with a snail or spiral. An installation option that, when laid, results in a kind of spiral with an end point that closes the entire system;
- combined installation. The option involves the implementation of several installation methods in the area of one room with the dominance of the most convenient and effective.
Basic rules for the distribution of pipes in a water heated floor system:
- installation of the system begins from the external, cold wall;
- a gradual reduction in heating of the floor surface is achieved by using pipe laying using the “snake” technology;
- uniform heating can be obtained by spiral laying in the direction from the periphery of the room to the central part, maintaining a double step from turn to turn, followed by laying in the opposite direction;
- the standard step cannot be less than ten and more than thirty centimeters, but the greater the heat loss, the smaller the step should be;
- special attention must be paid to the calculations of hydraulic resistance, the indicator of which increases in direct proportion to the length of the pipes and the number of turns;
- It is prohibited to join pipes with couplings if it is necessary to install them in a screed.
Collector selection and installation
The collector is selected in accordance with the number of circuits. It must have the optimal number of pins and allow you to connect absolutely all circuits being performed.
The simplest type of manifold has shut-off valves, but lacks the ability to configure the system, which allows it to be classified as budget options equipment.
Heated floor collector, option No. 1
In the collectors of the average price segment the installation of control valves is provided, allowing, if necessary, to adjust the water flow in any heating loop.
The most efficient are automated manifolds equipped with a servo drive for each valve and special pre-mixers. Such systems allow you to regulate temperature regime to the supplied water and mix liquids of different temperatures.
collector group
Mandatory elements of high-quality manifolds are represented by an air vent valve and a drain type outlet. For installation, a collector box with a standard thickness of about twelve centimeters is used. Correct sizes correspond to the dimensions of the collector group and the necessary additional elements, which can be pressure sensors, air ducts and drains.
A well-placed box has a number of characteristics:
- has a basis free space, used for bending pipes;
- characterized by the same length of pipe from each room and the dimensions of the circuit.
It is possible to mount the box into a non-load-bearing wall. It should be taken into account that the collector box must be installed above the surface of the “warm floor” system. Assembly and filling of the box is standard and is carried out in accordance with the attached instructions.
Sequence and features of installation
The most popular and sought-after option for laying warm water floors is the use of which is carried out after careful preparation of the surface to be equipped and marking for the location of the collector and pipes. All work is carried out in stages, observing the following sequence of main actions:
- laying thermal insulation based on foam plastic or expanded polystyrene;
When performing installation work, areas of the room around external walls are formed by using a smaller step, which allows the heating to be stabilized.
Laying a pipe system using the “snake” type involves taking the smallest step, and with spiral installation, the step can be from two to fifteen centimeters.
To improve quality concrete composition To make pouring easier, it is advisable to add a standard amount of polypropylene fiber fiber to the working solution, which will increase the strength of the screed during the shrinkage process.
You should not neglect the use of damper tape, which allows you to qualitatively compensate for the expansion of the concrete screed.
Compliance with technology allows us to obtain a high-quality and durable underfloor heating system that will improve the microclimate of the room and create comfortable living conditions.
Video - Warm water floors, installation diagram and installation. Video seminar
Water heated floor system – perfect option for a private home (alas, it is prohibited to use it in apartments due to possible consequences resulting from damage to pipes and flooding of neighbors). Today we will look at what this system is, arrangement diagrams and how to carry out installation work with your own hands.
The water heated floor system is a heated coolant passing through pipes that are installed in the floor. Before you decide to install the system, you need to consider all its advantages and disadvantages. Perhaps, after weighing all the pros and cons, you will understand that the result is not worth your work, or, on the contrary, you will be even more convinced that installing this system is perfect solution in your house. Advantages:
- Economical. Installing a water floor in a private house will reduce energy consumption by approximately 20% due to the low temperature of the coolant (from +30 °C to +50 °C).
- Comfort. Uniform heating of the house over the entire area will create an optimal temperature for a person (about +22 °C at foot level and approximately +18 °C at head level). It will be comfortable to walk on the floor barefoot.
- Operational safety. The heating system is hidden, which makes it absolutely safe - the risk of burns and injuries upon contact with the coolant is eliminated.
- Long-term operation. If installed correctly, the service life of the system will be about 40 years.
Water heated floor system
But nothing is perfect. Carrying out installation yourself is a rather labor-intensive and complex process, since the design of the system is a “sandwich” of several layers with different contents. If installed incorrectly, leakage is likely. In this case you will have to delete flooring, remove the screed and carry out repairs. Also, a water heated floor system, unfortunately, cannot be used as the only source of heat in a private home. It is best to supplement the heating system with radiators or other heating devices.
The warm water floor system is presented in the form of pipes made of a certain material and laid according to a diagram through which the coolant moves. You can make it possible to adjust the temperature by installing a thermostat. The heating system consists of the following elements:
- control fittings;
- pipe contours;
- collector;
- separation manifold cabinet;
- air release valve.
Water floor thermostat
The separation manifold cabinet must be installed in the room that you are going to heat. Pipelines are inserted into the device, which also need to be connected to the manifold.
Before you begin, you need to select an option for installing the system. There are three methods: concrete, polystyrene and wooden systems. Let's study their schemes more carefully to choose the option that suits you best in all respects.
Concrete option for installing a water system
The concrete option for making a water floor is considered the most common. The base is a cement-sand screed. A waterproofing layer must be laid on a leveled concrete surface, with a layer on top thermal insulation material. Attached from above heating pipes. If installation work is carried out in large room, then to fix the pipes you should additionally use a reinforcing mesh; in a small room you can use plastic brackets or fastening strips. The next step is to fill the supporting layer in the form sand-cement mixture using plasticizers. The final step is laying the flooring.
The second option is to make a polystyrene system. This structure is lighter than concrete; it is based on the use of special heat-insulating polystyrene boards. The shape of this material is suitable for easy installation pipes The edges of the slabs are equipped with special locks for strong adhesion, which allows you to create a monolithic “shield” over the entire surface of the floor. Laying pipes on such a “cushion” of polystyrene plates does not require the use of additional fasteners. Do-it-yourself installation of equipment is done by simply pressing and installing pipe sections in the grooves of the slabs. The next layer is metal plates, after which the flooring can be laid.
As a basis for wooden system serve edged boards, plywood, MDF boards. Wooden slabs are “unraveled” into strips 13–18 cm wide and laid at short intervals on a wooden floor under the pipes. On top you need to install thermal distribution plates with grooves for heating pipes using screws. The grooves of the plates are placed in the recesses between the slabs of wood. The system is fixed without the use of fasteners. The top surface of the system is covered with plastic film, and then fastened on top plasterboard sheets, which will become the basis for laying the finished floor.
To ensure that the installation of the system in a private home is as successful as possible, carefully study our instructions. Installation work consist of several stages and it is very important to follow all the recommendations of specialists so that you do not have to start all over again.
Installation of a water floor
How to install a heated floor system with your own hands - step-by-step diagram
Step 1: Substrate preparation and thermal insulation
Regardless of which system installation scheme suits you best, you need to properly level the base and lay a layer of thermal insulation.
This will reduce the risk of emergency situations occurring in the system. Remove the old coating and, if necessary, do. Be sure to check the result of the work performed using a building level. Old private houses are usually famous for their “walking” floors. In this case, you cannot do without the use of reinforcing mesh to strengthen the base. Thanks to this, you will avoid various troubles, such as the formation of cracks.
After this, divide the room into sectors - each of them will have a separate circuit. Now let's move on to thermal insulation. There are a lot suitable materials, however it is enough practical option– application expanded polystyrene sheet. And to prevent further deformation or expansion due to temperature changes, use a damper tape (welt). It is laid at the junction of the floor and walls, as well as at the joints between sectors along the entire perimeter of the room. Next you need to do the following:
- We lay and form a layer of thermal insulation;
- We put a layer of waterproofing;
- We fix the reinforcing mesh;
- We install pipes.
We adjust the polystyrene foam boards to each other as close as possible. We put waterproofing on top, which can be a thick polyethylene film. We close the joints between the film with tape. The reinforcing mesh also needs to be fixed to eliminate the risk of it shifting.
Step 2: We install pipes
Next you need to secure the pipes to the reinforcing mesh. For this you can use special clamps or flexible wire. During the fastening process, try not to overtighten the clamps on the pipes - during the movement of the coolant, the pipe may move a little, and the tightened clamps will leave marks. You need to start laying from the point (“comb”) that connects the water supply system and the circuit. We fix the extreme end of the pipe on the supply manifold and begin to mount the pipe on the frame step by step, setting the desired radius using a special spring, putting it on the pipe. Thanks to this, you can avoid strong bending of products and their deformation.
We connect the end and beginning of the contour on the comb, and then stretch the next one from the same point. Continue working until the entire surface is filled. Connect the last part of the pipe to the return manifold. In this case, the number of circuits must exactly match the number of outputs of the collector, so think about the number of circuits in advance. After connecting the heating circuits on the comb, the equipment should be “embedded” into the water supply system.
Step 3: Let’s start the system and fill the screed with our own hands
We installed the system. However, before pouring the finishing coat and starting the heating, carry out preliminary hydraulic tests. You can do this yourself, without involving specialists: pour water into the pipes under a pressure of 0.7 MPa. You also need to inspect the pipes for damage, deformed areas, and troubleshoot problems before pouring the screed and installing the floor covering.
If testing of the system was successful and you did not notice any failures or any damage, you can begin pouring the screed. To do this, set the water pressure to approximately 3 bar and ensure that there is constant room temperature . By pouring the screed, we provide another heat distribution layer. Having prepared a solution of cement and sand grade M-300, pour the solution.
Step 4: Finish the water floor
The last step is laying the finishing coating. This is done only after the concrete screed has completely hardened. You also need to remember that not all types of coating are suitable for a warm water floor. It is best, of course, to lay ceramic tiles. But if you want to lay parquet or other covering, check that the package is marked “for underfloor heating.”
For many years, standard heating schemes using traditional radiators were considered the only possible and most convenient source of heat. The appearance on the market of heat-resistant and durable plastic pipes made it possible to create warm water floors in the heating circuits of homes, which initially played the role of an additional source of heat. It is not known who was the first to decide to radically modernize the heating system and make the created heated water floor with his own hands the main heating of the home. But nowadays this heating method is very popular.
To the question - where to start, how to make a water heated floor with your own hands, the answer is clear. You need to start with thermal calculations and creation detailed diagram laying pipelines for using the system as the main heating. First, calculations are made of the heat losses of the premises and the required power of water heating of the floors. In the absence of experience and knowledge, it is strongly recommended to entrust this difficult work to professionals in order to avoid disappointment and significant material losses in the future.
To carry out thermal calculations, you can use specialized computer programs or use a calculator for calculating a warm water floor.
The practice of using heated floors, the obtained statistical data and experience made it possible to systematize recommendations on how to make heated floors from water heating in a house.
Doing thermal calculations, it is necessary to take into account first of all:
Having the initial data you can easily draw general scheme, on which to mark the main highways and the location of the collector unit. A special (three-way or two-way) valve is usually installed in the manifold for a warm water floor to regulate the temperature of the coolant using the mixing method. The circuits have a considerable length (up to 80 meters), so the system is supplied. For large areas premises, the system should not be simplified; it is better to make several heating circuits with a pipeline length of no more than 100 meters.
Designers and heating system specialists give a number of recommendations, in particular, before you make a water heated floor yourself, you need to follow certain rules for installing the circuit as the main method of heating your home.
The essence of these rules is as follows:
These recommendations must be strictly followed and taken into account when creating preliminary design, which on a sheet of paper will reflect the installation of a water heated floor with your own hands and prevent possible mistakes when installing the circuit.
The main elements of the heating system "warm floors"
The home heating system, which is based on water-heated floors, operates on a simple principle. Under the floor are laid, along which through circulation pump Hot coolant moves from the distribution manifold. It gives off its heat to the floor, which evenly heats the room. It should be noted that the interior of the room changes beyond recognition, because there are no heating radiators, return and supply pipes, which allows you to create unusual design solutions on housing arrangement.
The main elements of the system and what is needed for a warm water floor in the house:
Requirements for the main elements of the heating system "warm floors"
As with any heating scheme, the main element on which the efficiency and reliability of the heating system depends is the boiler that heats the water or other coolant in the system. Another element that is necessary for such a heating system is assembled, installed and connected. The third element for creating a warm floor is pipes for connecting and laying heating circuits.
Properties of the main elements of this heating method in more detail:
Laying water floors indoors
In the practice of installing underfloor heating systems, two main methods of laying heating circuits are used - concreting and the laying method. But before you start laying the contour you need to do some preparatory work. The efficiency of heating will largely depend on their correct implementation.
Works requiring increased attention in preparation for installation:
Creating a warm floor using concreting
Before you do it, that is, start laying pipes and creating a heating circuit, you need to install the collector in the place that was determined when creating the project. Then a damper tape is installed to compensate for temperature fluctuations in the screed. The pipes are attached either to the reinforcing mesh or to special thermal insulation for heated floors, which has grooves and fastenings for the circuit pipes.
Laying is done in several ways: snake, loops, spiral or snail-type laying. These are the main ones wiring diagrams warm water floors in an apartment or in a private house. Laying step for different regions And external conditions different, from 10 to 40 centimeters. The distance from the wall of the room to the nearest circuit pipe is at least 8 centimeters.
After careful and careful installation, testing of the installed circuit during the day is necessary. Water is supplied to the circuit at a pressure of 5 - 6 bar and it remains under pressure for at least 24 hours. Then everything is carefully and carefully checked for defects or leaks. Only after a successful test of the circuit does the warm water floor begin to be poured with your own hands, with pipes filled with water under operating pressure. Under no circumstances should the concrete screed be dried using heating from a heating boiler due to possible cracking. The screed must harden naturally within 28 days.
The thickness of the concrete layer above the poured circuit pipes depends on the type of floor covering used.
If you are planning warm water floors under tiles with your own hands, then in this case the thickness of the screed should be from 3 to 5 centimeters, and the distance between the circuit pipes from 10 to 40 centimeters. In the same case, if a laminate is used for a warm water floor, the thickness of the screed should be reduced to a reasonable minimum, and for strength, a reinforcing mesh should be laid over the circuit pipes. The mesh will add rigidity, strengthen the structure and reduce the thermal resistance of the screed.
Laying pipes
If the house has wooden floors, then the installation of a warm water floor is carried out using the so-called laying method. This method involves laying pipes in a specially prepared flooring.
There are many plastic modules on sale with seats and pipe mounts already prepared in them.
Wood blocks with longitudinal channels and fastenings are also produced. With this installation method, to reduce heat losses, a special underlay for a warm water floor is installed on the prepared base, which has high waterproofing and thermal insulation properties.
There are a lot of tips and tricks, even step-by-step instructions for creating warm water floors with your own hands on the Internet. This topic is popular, despite the presence of other systems of heated floors and ceilings - infrared and electric (laying a special cable in a screed). Price per square meter warm water floor is the smallest among all existing ones. But it should be borne in mind that this is a very difficult and responsible job that requires knowledge, skills and abilities.
In this article we will look at how you can make a warm water floor yourself. What tools and materials will you need. What important points and nuances should be taken into account during installation. We will also consider popular floor heating schemes.
If you decided in our article ““ that you want a water-heated floor in your home, then let’s learn how to make it yourself. Even if you entrust the installation of heated floors to specialists, knowledge about the installation process and its important points will help you more effectively control the workers.
Pipe
For water heated floors, pipes made of cross-linked polypropylene or metal-plastic pipes. Read more. Important points when choosing a pipe is its operating pressure(10 bar) and withstand temperature (above 90°C). Pipes certified for sale have specified characteristics, so this point is usually not paid attention to. More attention is paid pipe diameter and such characteristics as anti-oxygen coating. The diameter of the pipe is selected based on the calculation of the heated floor and varies between 16-20 mm. If you don’t want to do the calculation or can’t, your choice is a pipe with a diameter of 20 mm. The anti-oxygen coating of the pipe is designed to ensure a minimum amount of air in the heated floor system. Note that when correct installation and a sufficient pipe cross-section, such a characteristic of the pipe becomes optional. All other characteristics and features of pipes for water heated floors are designed by marketers to ensure a comfortable existence for pipe manufacturers, so consider them based on your own beliefs and capabilities.
Manifold (distribution cabinet)
An important part of the underfloor heating system. All the branches and loops of the heated floor pipes are collected here. Here there is a mixing of hot and cold water before desired temperature. Here are valves that regulate the warmth of your floors by increasing or decreasing the amount of water in a separate circuit. As well as the temperature of the entire system as a whole. A pump can be installed in the distribution cabinet to pump coolant through the pipes, if the power of the pump built into the boiler is not enough for this operation.
Important points.
- The number of valves must be equal to the number of supply and return pipes. If you have five underfloor heating circuits, take a manifold with 10 valves (5x2 pipes).
- A manifold with adjustable valves is highly recommended. This way you can configure each of the branches of the heated floor separately from the others. This is important because Different rooms warm up differently. You should be able to increase or decrease the temperature in separate room without changing the overall temperature of the coolant.
- On the collector is desirable air valve to remove air bubbles from the underfloor heating system.
Insulation
Before laying water heated floor pipes, the surface must be leveled (differences should not be more than 1 centimeter) and insulated. Should be insulated concrete bases, wooden ones do not require insulation if they are of sufficient height. The thickness of the insulation layer varies between 20-150 mm depending on what is underneath. If there is a ceiling of a heated room, then the layer will be small, and if there are cold floors on the ground, then the thickness of the layer will increase. We recommend using extruded polystyrene foam as a substrate for heated floors. It has the necessary strength, waterproofing and thermal insulation properties.
Fittings and consumables
Any specialized store will help you choose the necessary fittings and components for installing a warm water floor. There is nothing complicated about this.
- To install pipe ends, “Eurocones” are used.
- For pipe insulation, foamed polypropylene insulation is used.
- You can also purchase pipe clamps. They serve to secure underfloor heating pipes in a circuit with a given pitch.
- An important consumable is damper tape. It will need to be glued along the perimeter of the thermal contour to compensate for the thermal expansion of the concrete floor screed. Without it, the screed may burst.
- Waterproofing film.
- It is usually recommended to lay reinforcing mesh. Her role is quite dubious, so whether to put her in or not is entirely your choice. We believe that with the proper thickness of the screed, pipe clamps and solid foundation, reinforced mesh is not needed. But if you lack at least one of the listed factors, then you should think about reinforcement.
Laying schemes for water heated floors
There are several schemes for laying pipes for a warm water floor. The main ones:
- "Snail"
- "Snake"
- Combined
Meaning various schemes laying pipes for more uniform heating of the floor. The scheme is selected depending on the type of room, the number of external walls, etc. The principle is that on the side of the outer walls the pipe is laid in more frequent steps or with warmer water.
Design of a water heated floor
When designing, it is important to remember that the length of the pipe in one circuit should not exceed 90 meters. Otherwise, the return water will be too cold. And the resistance in a pipe of such length will be excessive. Therefore, the optimal pipe length for one circuit is 70-80 meters.
Divide all heated rooms into circuits with approximately the same pipe length. Our section of construction calculators will help you do all the calculations. Remember that the colder it is expected outside temperature, the more frequent the pipe laying step should be. The standard laying step is a distance of 10-30 cm. With a larger laying step, alternating cold and warm areas of the floor cannot be avoided. And if it happens more often, there may be problems with bending the pipes in the required bending areas.
Installation procedure for water heated floors
- To begin with, the floor surface is thoroughly cleaned and leveled. Do not allow differences in height of more than 10 mm.
- Then follows waterproofing, if provided in your case.
- After this, if thermal insulation is provided, it is laid. If it is not required, for example, a warm water floor is mounted on wooden base, then move on to the next step.
- We fix the damper tape around the perimeter. It is important to take into account that it must be fastened along the perimeter of the heating circuit, and not the room. If the room is large in area, then it is divided into several thermal circuits. And the tape is laid around their perimeter. Let's say you have a living room 4x6 meters. Divide it into 2 circuits of 12 sq.m. and separate them with damper tape.
- The next step is to install the collector. From here we begin to lay out the pipes. The part of the pipe that goes to the circuit can be insulated with foamed polypropylene. This way you can more accurately regulate the temperature different rooms. We fasten the pipes either on slats or with special clips. Do not fasten it too tightly, because the pipe must be able to expand due to temperature.
- If you have reinforcement, then lay a mesh of wire or reinforcement on top of the pipe. If reinforcement is not required, then the mesh may be useful for attaching underfloor heating pipes to it. Then it is laid BEFORE the pipe.
- Checking reliability assembled system. We fill the pipes with water and bring the pressure in the system to 4-6 bar. After a day, we look for leaks and pressure loss. If everything is in order, proceed to the next step.
- We screed and let it dry for 28 days. Filling must take place with the system filled and operating pressure. But turn on the feed hot water is not necessary, because the screed should dry on its own, there is no need to speed up this process.
- Let's do finishing floors and enjoy the comfort of heated floors.
As you can see, making a water heated floor with your own hands is not such a difficult task. And believe me, your hard work will pay off handsomely when you feel all the delights of walking in the cold winter season. warm floor. Just remember that underfloor heating is a rather inert heating system. And it will take several days to warm it up. Therefore, do not wait for severe cold, but turn it on at the first sign of frost.
How to properly install a heated floor. Video lesson
A heated floor system will be an excellent addition to the main heating system. Also, a warm floor can easily perform the functions of the main heating without the need for additional devices.
Often, owners decide to install heated floors on our own. And if to connect you need to have the skills to perform electrical work, then anyone can independently install a water heated floor. Read the instructions and get to work.
Preparatory work
First step
Remove the old screed to the very base. Make sure that surface differences do not exceed 1 cm.
Second step
Place a layer of waterproofing material on a thoroughly cleaned surface.
Third step
Attach damper tape around the perimeter of the room. If your system consists of several circuits, the tape must also be laid along the line between these circuits.
Fourth step
Thermal insulation material, as well as the insulation procedure, is selected individually in accordance with the conditions of a particular situation.
So, if the system is used as a supplement to the main heating, it will be enough to lay foil polyethylene.
In most situations, foam plastic or other suitable material is used as a thermal insulation material.
Also available for sale are insulation materials designed specifically for installation in combination with underfloor heating pipes. Their structure already contains channels for laying pipes.
Fifth step
Lay reinforcing mesh over the thermal insulation. It will help increase the strength of the screed with which you fill the pipes.
In this case, the system pipes can be attached directly to the mesh, eliminating the need to use special clips and strips. In this case, ordinary plastic ties can be used for fastening.
You need to perform an individual calculation and determine optimal parameters laying pipes for each individual room.
The easiest way to do the calculation is with help - this will give you the opportunity to save time and effort.
It is quite difficult to calculate the required power for each individual circuit solely using formulas. Such a calculation requires taking into account many parameters. In this case, the slightest mistake can lead to extremely unfavorable consequences.
To calculate the system you need to know the following parameters:
The listed parameters will allow you to calculate the optimal length of the pipes to be laid, as well as the appropriate spacing for their placement to ensure the required level of heat transfer.
You must also choose a suitable pipe laying route. Remember: as water passes through the pipes, it gradually loses heat. That's why the distribution must be carried out taking into account the series important nuances , namely:
- It is recommended to start laying pipes from the less warm (outer) walls of the room;
- if the pipe is not introduced into the room from the outside wall, then the part of the pipe from the point of entry to the wall must be insulated;
- in order to gradually reduce the heating intensity from the outer walls of the room to the inner walls, a “snake” installation option is used;
- In order to ensure uniform heating of the space in rooms that do not have external walls (wardrobes, bathrooms, etc.), the spiral installation method should be used. In this case, the spiral should develop from the edge of the room to its middle.
The most commonly used pitch for laying underfloor heating pipes is 300 mm. In places with increased heat losses, the pipe spacing can be reduced to 150 mm.
It is desirable that the resistance of the pipes in the circuits connected to the common collector be the same. To do this, you need to divide especially large contours into several smaller contours. Particularly large in this case include circuits whose pipe length exceeds 100 m.
Also, experts strongly do not recommend heating several rooms with one circuit. Attic floors, glazed verandas, balconies, etc. the rooms must be heated by a separate system circuit. Otherwise, the heating efficiency will be significantly reduced.
Installation guide for underfloor heating system
Proceed with installation of the system. The work is carried out in several stages.
First stage - collector
The collector is installed in a collector box specially designed for this purpose. Typically the thickness of such a box is 120 mm. Select the dimensions in accordance with the dimensions of the collector frame and taking into account the dimensions of various types of additions such as drain sensors, pressure sensors, etc.
Arrange the collector group so that there is a gap underneath it sufficient to bend the pipes.
Install the manifold cabinet. Do this so that the lengths of pipes from each heated room and system circuit are approximately the same.
Most often, manifold cabinets are simply mounted into the walls - the 120 mm thickness allows this to be done. The collector box must be installed above the level of the floor heating system.
It is important to remember: create different kinds of niches in load-bearing walls It is strictly not recommended, and in most situations it is even strictly prohibited.
The assembly of the manifold cabinet is carried out in accordance with the included instructions, so you will not have any problems or difficulties at this stage.
Second stage - heating boiler
First of all, choose the appropriate power. The equipment must be able to withstand incoming loads normally and have a certain power reserve. The calculation is extremely simple: you add up the power of all underfloor heating systems and add a 15 percent margin.
The coolant in the system under consideration is provided by a pump. The design of modern boilers includes suitable pump initially. Usually its power is sufficient to ensure normal functioning of the system in rooms up to 120-150 m2.
If the room dimensions exceed the given values, you will have to install an additional pump. In such situations, pumps are installed in remote manifold cabinets.
Shut-off valves must be installed directly at the coolant inlet and outlet points from the boiler. With these devices you can turn off heating equipment when the need arises, for example for repairs or preventive maintenance.
Most often, home craftsmen give preference - they are the easiest to install and perform very well when working in conjunction with a heated floor system. To install and connect the equipment, simply follow the manufacturer's instructions.
Prices for the range of heating boilers
Heating boilers
Third stage - pipes
Pipe laying is carried out in accordance with a previously prepared diagram. To fasten elements, profiles with holes for placing screws are usually used.
You can also attach the pipes to the mesh using plastic ties– this has already been mentioned earlier.
When fastening the pipes, make sure that they are not pinched too tightly - it is better when the loop is loose.
Try to make bends as neat as possible, while observing the recommendations for the minimum permissible radius. In the case of polyethylene pipes, this radius is usually 5 pipe diameters.
If you overreact polyethylene pipe too much, a whitish stripe forms on its bend. This indicates the occurrence of a crease. It is prohibited to use such pipes - a breakthrough will very quickly appear at the break point.
Connect the system pipes to the manifold using a fitting or a Eurocone system.
After completing the installation of the system, be sure to check. To check, fill in water, apply a pressure of about 5 bar and leave the heated floor in this condition for a day. If after 24 hours no noticeable expansions or leaks are noted, you can begin installing the screed.
The fourth stage - screed
When pouring, operating pressure must be applied to the pipes. After pouring, the screed should be left to dry for a month. Only after the screed has fully gained strength can you proceed to laying the finishing coating.
When forming a concrete screed, you need to take into account a number of important features, related to the nature of the distribution of thermal energy in the thickness of the fill and the finishing coating used.
If tiles are to be laid, the thickness of the screed should be about 30-50 mm. Or you can reduce the distance between the pipes to 100-150 mm. Otherwise, the heat will be distributed completely unevenly.
When laying linoleum, laminate panels, etc., the thickness of the screed should be even smaller. To strengthen the fill in such a situation, it is necessary to use an additional reinforcing mesh laid on top of the pipes.
Prices for various types of screeds and self-leveling floors
Screeds and self-leveling floors
Thus, laying the underfloor heating system can be done on your own without any problems. You just need to follow the instructions given and take a responsible approach to carrying out all activities.
Good luck!
Video - Make a heated floor with your own hands