Samples of the internal filling of a sliding wardrobe. The best filling options for sliding wardrobes. Filling the product for the hallway

The first thing you need to think about is the dimensions of the future wardrobe. To do this, first assess how much space you can manage: inspect the room where you plan to install the furniture, and designate an acceptable area that can be realistically allocated without harming the interior. Then you need to accurately calculate the cabinet parameters: height, depth and width

Height. It is recommended to design the cabinet up to the ceiling. This is dictated solely by pragmatic goals: in every home there are large things that are used extremely rarely, for example, suitcases or travel backpacks - they can be placed in the very top compartments of the furniture.
Width. It all depends on the dimensions of the room in which the closet will be located and your personal needs. From a technical point of view, the maximum width of the cabinet is unlimited, but it is important to take into account one nuance: the larger the furniture, the more doors will be needed, and the location and configuration of the internal compartments of the cabinet will directly depend on their number.

Depth. The optimal depth of the model, in which all sections are arranged in one linear row, is 60-65 cm. If you are planning to design a corner dressing room, the depth of each side of the furniture can be up to 55 cm. Keep in mind that approximately 10 cm of depth will be taken up by doors with guides .

Systematizing needs

The most important condition for properly filling a closet is a clear understanding of personal needs: exactly what items will be stored and in what volume. As a rule, in a traditional closet the following are distinguished: functional areas:

Wrinkle-resistant clothing - ordinary shelves or open drawers with a depth of 35 cm to 70 cm: for children - about 35-45 cm; for women – 40-65 cm; for men – 55-70 cm.

Underwear – pull-out compartments 15-30 cm deep: for women – a separate compartment for underwear, socks and hosiery; for men - a separate compartment for underwear and socks.
Clothes on hangers - here you should organize two compartments: for short clothes– several sections located one below the other and equipped with rods and hooks; for long clothes - sections with pantographs.
Trousers are retractable or stationary trouser holders that require storing clothes either unfolded or folded.
Accessories and decorations – drawers up to 15 cm in height with a mass of cells of 10x10 cm.
Bags - shelves up to 50 cm in height or a special row of hooks.
Shoes - shelves located on one or two floors for low models and vertical mounts for high ones.
Bed linen - compartments at the very top of the furniture: width - from 40 cm to 70 cm, height - up to 50 cm.

Rationally distribute space

An obligatory stage in designing a wardrobe is the distribution of its space. In general, it is customary to distinguish three zones:

Understanding the cabinet components

It's time to get acquainted with the main components that can make up the filling of a wardrobe:

Shelves – retractable and stationary. Most convenient distance between them - 35-45 cm. They can be attached in two ways: with hidden fasteners or traditional corners made of metal or plastic.

Advice. If you want to install shelves wider than 90 cm, install partitions underneath them, otherwise the products will sag.

Drawers - can be standard and maximum extension: the first extend 80%, the second 100%. It is best to buy compartments whose guides are equipped with closers - such drawers close silently and smoothly.
Mezzanines are hard-to-reach shelves in the upper area of the cabinet, designed for storing things that are rarely used.

Rods are horizontal holders for hangers, usually installed across the entire width of the cabinet. They are both stationary and retractable. The second models provide easy access to any distant items, but are more expensive than fixed holders.
Pantographs are special “furniture elevators” that allow you to extend rods with clothes to the required level and then push them back. They are divided into mechanical - with a handle, and electric - with a button.
Baskets are deep compartments for wrinkle-resistant items. They can be equipped with: rollers - such models move along guides, bearings - with full extension, closers - with smooth self-closing.
Hangers and crossbars are stationary fittings for parallel placement of clothes.

Now you know the basic recommendations for filling a closet - they will help you design the most functional and spacious furniture for storing your things. All that remains is to order the production of your ideal personal space and look forward to the process of its final arrangement.

Filling the wardrobe: video

Having convenient and properly planned storage spaces in a house or apartment is the key to a comfortable existence and order. Let's try to figure out how to approach the organization internal filling wardrobe After all, this one structural model closed wardrobe is most often used in bedrooms.

There is order only where each specific thing has its own specific place.

In the discussion we will use the word “trempel” (which is not so correct, but has only one meaning), meaning hangers (aka hanging hangers) to avoid misunderstandings.

When it comes to the fact that personal belongings should be the guideline (as for children, here we use the “for growth” principle), you should not be surprised by this. After all, a thin woman 160 cm tall and a tall (195 cm) man weighing more than 100 kg have - absolutely different proportions, it is stupid to standardize the ruler and force them to use the same set of sections, if they can use the same space much more productively - but each in their own way.

So, how to properly design the layout of sections in a closet?

Decide on dimensions

The first thing you need to figure out is how much area you will have at your disposal. Enter the room in which the wardrobe will be located, and, taking into account the presence of other items in it, mark the possible and acceptable area that can be allocated for the wardrobe.

Depth

The depth of the closed cabinet together with the system is about 60-65 cm - this is in case the sections are arranged in one line. If you have the opportunity to arrange the shelves in the letter P or G and create a similar dressing room, here you can calculate the depth of 55 cm on each side (since we will have closing doors only directly at the “entrance” to the closet area).

Length

Start directly from the features of your layout. And, of course, from a general understanding of how much stuff you have. After all, if you are a modest person and can be content with a few things, then it is better to preserve the space of the room and make the closet smaller.

If you are an avid shopaholic and constantly update your wardrobe with new items, make sure that all this beauty has somewhere to hang and put. After all, careful handling and proper care significantly increase the shelf life of clothing and its good appearance.

Height

It is better to design a sliding wardrobe up to the ceiling. It is clear that it is difficult to get to the very top shelves and you are unlikely to use them often, but the presence of many large items (pillows, blankets, suitcases, travel bags and boxes) in the house cannot be denied. And it’s better to have them inside the closet than on it or, even worse, just scattered around the house.

Be clear about your needs

The key to successfully organizing space in a closet is a correct and specific understanding of your needs (or the needs of the person who will store things in this closet). For convenience, we will talk in general about the purpose of certain compartments, and husbands/wives and brothers/sisters can divide the available space in two among themselves, and everyone will decide for themselves how, what and where they want to place it.

Let's list the main zones, and you can decide for yourself whether you need sections of this kind in this cabinet and, if so, in what quantity.

Underwear

Drawers with depths from 15 to 30 cm.

for men: separate underwear and socks
for women: separately hosiery, socks, underwear

Wrinkle-resistant things

Wrinkle-resistant items are stored on shelves; the height of the shelf is no more than 40-45 cm.

for children: width 35-50 cm
for men: width 50-70 cm
for women: width 45-60 cm

Things on hangers

Here, it is better to determine the length of the sections by measuring your average statistical item from this category and adding at least 20 cm to the size for mounting the pipe itself and assuming the height of the trammel hook.

Compartment for short items (sweaters, skirts, shirts, jackets). Sections for short items can be located one below the other. At the same time, short people should take care of either a mechanism that lowers the lower tube or a special hook to easily remove the tremors).
Compartment for long items (suits, coats, evening dresses, long skirts).

Trousers

Pants can be stored folded in half, or in full height— they will occupy the appropriate place.

Accessories

It will be more convenient to store watches, belts, bracelets and other accessories in drawers, divided into cells 10x10 cm. The height of such a compartment is about 12 cm.

Shoes

Can be stored on shelves in one or two rows or hung on special mounts. Think tall boots, ankle boots, sneakers and lightweight summer shoes. High at the top you can set aside several shelves for storing shoes in boxes.

Bags

Bags are often hung on hooks or placed on shelves no more than 50-60 cm high.

Suitcases

Suitcases can be completely different different sizes, so start from the sizes that you use most often when traveling and allocate shelves for them under the ceiling.

Bed sheets

Also requires a lot of storage space at the top of the cabinet. The width of the shelves is 50-80 cm, the height is no more than 60 cm.

Objectively distribute zones and their relationships

Now that you have remembered all the things that must find a place in your new closet, distribute the space correctly. That's right, almost percentage, count what things and how much space they take up in relation to each other.

It will then become obvious to the office worker that most of the wardrobe will be occupied by sections for suits, trousers and shirts, and in the children's closet there will be more things on the shelves. Here everyone must determine for themselves how and where it will be more convenient for them to store things.

Check the ergonomics again

After you have distributed the cells, check in actual size how the declared height and width correspond to your expectations. Remember: what looks spacious in the drawing may have much more modest dimensions in real life, and the height that seemed small on the layout may in fact be inaccessible for convenient daily use.

A tape measure and colored crayons will help you sketch out the layout of the shelves on the rough wall and understand how well you coped with the design stage.

That's all. You have done the work that no one can do for you - neither a designer nor a cabinet design specialist. After all, only you understand all the nuances of organizing your personal space and will be able to fully satisfy all your requirements and take into account your wishes.

Then it’s up to the designers, who will check your developments, perhaps make reasonable adjustments (having a technical background) and put the cabinet into production. And all you have to do is wait for the installation of the ideal and, what is important, individual space for storing personal belongings.

A sliding wardrobe can rightfully claim to be the ideal “home” for clothes and household items, because it allows you to use valuable square meters much more rational than any separate cabinets, chests of drawers and shelving. But in order to get the maximum benefit from this “home”, you need to know how to properly arrange the furniture inside. How to plan zones? How to determine the dimensions of the entire model and individual sections? How to choose the “filling” in the form of shelves, rods, hooks and other components? What should be the arrangement of the selected components? Let's understand all the above-mentioned subtleties and look at the photos different options filling furniture in order to successfully cope with the task.

What size should a wardrobe be?

When calculating the dimensions of the future, three factors need to be taken into account:

approximate number of items for storage + 20% for “expansion” of the wardrobe;
the area of the room in which the furniture is planned to be installed;
designers' recommendations regarding the minimum/maximum dimensions of certain cabinet elements.

And if the first two nuances are absolutely individual and are decided privately, then everyone without exception needs to focus on the third.

Depth. The minimum depth of the closet is 60 cm. This is exactly what is needed to place hangers with outerwear. Don’t forget to add a margin of 10 cm to the depth - they will be “eaten up” by compartment doors with guides.
Width. The minimum is 50 cm. Making a cabinet even smaller in width makes no sense, since the furniture will simply be non-functional. But the maximum width is not regulated.
Height. Theoretically, a wardrobe can be of any height, so experts recommend designing furniture almost up to the ceiling in order to achieve maximum capacity.
Doors. Sliding doors should not be wider than 120 cm, otherwise they will put a large load on the roller system, which can lead to its rapid deformation. The optimal proportions of height and width, which will avoid distortion of the structure, are 1:5.

Advice. Select the width of the doors to match the width of the sections - thanks to this technique, when moving the panels apart, “dead zones” will not form in the closet that are inaccessible on either side, which is often the case with models that are equipped with two common doors.

How to distribute space

In order to qualitatively organize the interior space of the wardrobe, it must be clearly divided into functional zones. Traditionally, there are three mandatory zones:

Upper space. It is recommended to have compartments here for storing seasonal clothing, hats, bedding, as well as those household items that you do not use every day. Optimal solution– allocate about 20-25% of the cabinet to the upper space.
Central space. As the name suggests, this is the most important area of the closet, designed to store the bulk of frequently used items. The organization of this space must be taken with the utmost responsibility: all shelves, compartments, drawers, baskets, hangers and other components must be arranged in such a way that they can be easily accessed every day. At least 50% of the wardrobe must be allocated for central compartments.
Lower space. Area for placing shoes, bags and umbrellas. For these sections, 20-25% of the total space is enough.

What and how to store

For each type of thing in a closet, it is important to find its place, so before you start arranging its internal space, you need to decide what exactly will be stored in it - the nature of the filling of the “storage” will directly depend on this:

Wrinkle-resistant clothes - multi-format drawers and wide shelves.
Wrinkly clothes - sections for hangers: for short items - compartments with rods and hooks, located one after another; for long items - compartments with pantographs.
Outerwear – vertical sections with bars.
Underwear – roll-out drawers up to 30 cm deep.
Trousers – fixed and retractable trouser holders in two standard versions: for storing trousers folded in half and completely unfolded.
Shoes – one- or two-story shelves for low shoes and vertical side mounts for high ones.
Bags - a horizontal row of hooks or stationary shelves.
Large accessories - hanging organizers or vertical drawers.
Decorations – roll-out trays 10-15 cm high with divided cells.
Bed linen - sections under the mezzanine with a width of 40 cm to 70 cm.

Advice. Don't forget about this one important element wardrobe, like a mirror. It can be presented in two variations: mirrored doors or retractable mirrors hidden under shelves.

What to fill the closet with

Now let’s look at what exactly you can fill your closet with. Here are the main components of the “storage”.

Shelves are universal elements that can be of two types: stationary and retractable. The optimal distance between the shelves is 40 cm. They can be secured with both standard corners and hidden fasteners.
Baskets are stationary or roll-out deep compartments designed for wrinkle-resistant clothing.

Drawers – compartments with standard (up to 80%) and full (100%) extension. The most convenient to use drawers are those equipped with closers - these fittings allow the compartments to slide out as easily and smoothly as possible.
Crossbars and hangers are stationary elements for parallel storage of things.
Rods are end and longitudinal holders for hangers, which can be fixed or retractable. From the point of view of convenience, the second models are much more profitable: thanks to them, fast access to distant things.

Advice. To determine the approximate length of the barbell, count required amount hangers: one hanger will take about 5 cm in length.

Pantographs are “furniture elevators” that lower and raise rods to the required level. They can be mechanical and electrical: the former are equipped with a handle, and the latter with a button.

As you can see, the most functional and spacious, but at the same time ergonomic wardrobe is a dream that can easily become a reality. You just have to stick to it simple recommendations on organizing the furniture space - and then you are provided with an ideal “home” for things.

Filling the wardrobe: video

Wardrobe inside: photo

When purchasing or making a wardrobe, you need to think in advance about filling it. After all, he gained his popularity thanks to large selection various combinations and ready-made modules that allow you to adapt to the requirements of the owners. Properly selected filling for sliding wardrobes will make it spacious and functional.

First of all, you need to decide for what purposes the cabinet will be used and what you will store in it. The filling of the wardrobe in the hallway and bedroom will naturally be very different, so let's look at everything in order.

Conventionally, we can divide classic sliding wardrobes into 3 parts:

Bottom - for storing shoes;
The middle is the main part where hangers and shelves are located.
Upper (mezzanine) - for storing things that are rarely used.

Choosing the filling for the wardrobe in the bedroom

The wardrobe in the bedroom should have plenty of storage space for everyday and work clothes and bed linen. The width of the cabinet, as a rule, is about 60 centimeters, which means about 50 cm is available for storage, so both standard hanging rods and retractable ones with a release mechanism can be placed inside.

Popular options for filling sliding wardrobes include the following details:

A pantograph is a rod with a handle and a mechanism for lowering it down in order to use the space at the top.
Mesh baskets and laundry racks - these can be used to store anything from shirts to socks. They can be made of either metal or plastic.
A regular hanger or an end hanger - for hangers.
Clothes hangers with hooks - for storing wrinkle-resistant clothes.
Pull-out trouser holders or hangers.
Hangers for ties, belts and cufflinks.
Multi-level pull-out baskets - for storing small items.
Mount for iron - mounted on the wall. In addition to this, you can make a built-in ironing board.
Shelves and fastenings for storing shoes.

Filling built-in wardrobes: modules used

Features of the wardrobe in the hallway

Main feature The furniture in the hallway is small in width. For small hallways in Khrushchev-era buildings, the optimal width will be 40 centimeters, as opposed to the standard 60 centimeters. Also note that 10 centimeters of width will be taken up sliding mechanism, so standard hangers most likely will not fit into such a narrow closet.

To make the insides of a wardrobe less than 60 centimeters wide compact and functional, end rods are usually used instead of a longitudinal rod. They can be either retractable or stationary. Of course, you can’t hang many hangers on them, but there’s enough space for a small family. In a compartment 1 meter long, you can place two pairs of such hangers on top and bottom, giving the total length of one full hanger.

To store shoes, use wire shelves that are fixed at an angle. Each shelf will fit 2-3 pairs of shoes, so the bulk will have to be stored in boxes on regular shelves.

In the hallway and corridor, small drawers for storing small items will be indispensable: shoe brushes, cream, keys. Some of the space should be taken up by shelves for outerwear for other seasons that you are not currently wearing. To do this, you can make pull-out baskets or regular shelves from chipboard.

Also popular are models consisting of several sections, which are complemented by hangers, corner shelves, hat holders, seats. You need to take care of the required number of hooks for bags, packages and umbrellas.

Good decision is to use a mirror for the cabinet doors - it will visually make the hallway wider, and you will be able to look at yourself in full height. In addition to this, you can install additional lighting on the canopy or from inside the cabinet.

Layout Tips

Sliding wardrobes: internal contents

Note! When choosing drawers, pay attention to the quality and type of guide rails. They should allow the box to be rolled out completely so that it does not fall. Cheap roller guides allow them to be extended only halfway. The best drawers have a soft-close mechanism that slides them into place smoothly and quietly.

The layout of the wardrobe inside must match the quantity sliding doors. If you are making 2 doors, then it is advisable to make 2 sections. If the doors are wide, then you can make an exception by adding several compartments, but it is not advisable to install sliding doors longer than 1 meter.
The length of the clothes rail should be sufficient, so it should be made larger than the compartment with shelves. The recommended length of the bar is 90 cm, and the length of the shelves is 60 cm.
The filling of the wardrobe should be at a convenient height from each other, for easy access inside. If you are making shelves for clothes, the opening should be 35-40 cm, and for books - 20-35 cm.
To store short clothes on hangers, the opening should be 80-100 cm, and for long coats - 150-160 cm. To calculate the opening for the barbell more accurately, add 20 centimeters to the longest clothes.
The upper space (mezzanine) is usually used for storing unnecessary large items, so make top shelf height 45-60 centimeters.
If you have a lot of clothes on hangers, it will be more convenient if you increase the width of the closet to 70 centimeters. Thus, minus the width of the doors, you will be left with the optimal 60 cm. But you don’t need to make the width too large, otherwise it will be inconvenient to store things on the shelves.
It is best to store underwear and socks in a drawer.
Fix pull-out fillers for sliding wardrobes in such a way that the door frame does not interfere with their movement. Handles on drawers should be recessed inward.
For long shelves and rods, you need to provide partitions that will support them.
To install lighting inside the cabinet, it is better to use a retractable canopy that will automatically turn on when the door is opened.

Corner wardrobes

Corner cabinet inside

It’s worth mentioning separately about the filling corner cabinets coupe, an example of which you see in the photo. They can be shaped like a triangle, trapezoid, or diagonal.
If you decide to make a corner wardrobe, filling it will be more difficult, because you need to provide easy access to things in the corner. In a good way A smart way to use corner space is to install several hanging rods in the center. An example of their fastening is shown in the photo.

Most often, space in the corner is occupied by clothes hangers, but there are options with shelves as well.

In the corners you can make open shelves for souvenirs.

Features of filling built-in wardrobes

If you decide to assemble a built-in wardrobe yourself, the internal contents may be more practical. You make the most of the free space from floor to ceiling, fill empty niches. For example, many people prefer to make a place for a TV or computer desk. To do this, either create an additional open module, or place it inside, hiding it with doors.

Examples of filling

Using a visual diagram where you can see the filling of a sliding wardrobe, you can see examples of combining different components. Of course, they are all conditional, you can take best ideas and create something special of your own.

Options for two doors

Option for 3 doors

Option for 4-door cabinet

І floor wardrobe

By purchasing ready-made wardrobe or by making it to order, you overpay at least 50% of its cost. In fact, the cost of manufacturing a sliding wardrobe is approximately 20-30% of the amount indicated on the price tag. At the same time, you can design and assemble a cabinet with your own hands, without having any special knowledge or tools.

The sliding wardrobe is manufactured using cabinet furniture technology. The essence of the technology is that all cabinet elements play a structural and functional role at the same time. All elements of the cabinet, with the exception of doors and the back wall, are made of laminated chipboard. The back wall is made of MDF. Doors can be made from various materials, however, the most popular are mirror or glass, or a combination of both. Often a mirror or glass is decorated with a pattern.

Fig.1.

There are two types of wardrobes: regular and built-in. From a design point of view, these types of cabinets are different. The built-in wardrobe has two main differences: the absence of a plinth and visible structural elements closet Usually a built-in wardrobe is installed in a wall niche.

Fig.2.

Wardrobe design

Designing a wardrobe begins with determining the overall dimensions. In this case, the height of the cabinet is usually less than the height of the room by about 5 - 10 cm in which the cabinet is installed. The length of the cabinet depends on your preferences and free space premises.

Separately, it should be said about the width of the cabinet. The traditional width (depth) of a sliding wardrobe is 60 cm. This width of the wardrobe is enough to allow you to hang clothes on a hanger across the wardrobe. However, the width can be made arbitrary. Usually, if there is not enough space in the room, the closet is made 40 - 50 cm wide. In this case, clothes can be hung across the closet; there are special hangers for this purpose.

Fig.3.

Having determined dimensions wardrobe, you can start creating a drawing. At this stage, you can draw the frame (side and top walls) and the base of the cabinet (cabinet floor).

Traditionally, the floor of the cabinet is 5 cm away from the floor of the room. This structure forms the base. On the front of the wardrobe, the space between the floor of the wardrobe and the floor of the room is covered with a strip made of the same material from which the wardrobe is made. Wherein the strip is recessed into the cabinet by 1-2 cm.

Fig.4.

Thus we have a wardrobe frame. It is important to note that there are now overall dimensions of the interior of the cabinet. For the design under consideration they are: length 1968 mm, height 2518 mm. Based on these dimensions, you can begin designing shelves and partitions (filling the cabinet).

The filling of the wardrobe can be arbitrary, possible options Let's look at it further. First, we should say a few words about the traditional approach and the features of some structural elements of the wardrobe.

Wardrobe doors- This sliding design, which consists of at least 2 doors. To move and secure the doors, a special mechanism consisting of several elements is used. Two important points should be noted: the size of the doors and the size of the required space for installing the doors.

Unlike the cabinet itself, sliding doors, as already mentioned, consist of several elements: a guide, a rail, a profile and a door insert. All necessary fittings for the manufacture of sliding wardrobe doors can be purchased separately. However, if the elements of the cabinet and its assembly can be done with your own hands, then It is better to make cabinet doors to order. This is due to the complexity of manufacturing sliding doors, especially if there are mirrors and glass elements. To order sliding doors, this is exactly what you will need inner dimensions closet And, naturally, you will have to choose a door design.

Second important point is the overall dimensions of the sliding doors, the dimensions of the internal shelves depend on this. Traditionally, 10 cm of closet space is allocated for the installation of sliding doors. Thus, regardless of the filling option, the width of the shelves will be 10 cm less than the width of the cabinet. In our case, 50 cm.

Fig.5.

Filling the wardrobe

Before describing several of the most popular options for filling a wardrobe, let’s consider standard option, which is suitable for any closet are shelves. The most important point is the overall dimensions and relative position of the shelves. This is the key to good ergonomics of the wardrobe and ease of use.

So, for example, a wardrobe with a length of 200 cm and a height of 260 cm was chosen. A wardrobe of this size (or similar) is often installed in hallways and bedrooms. This closet is very spacious. It is well suited for storing clothes and shoes, as well as bedding and other linens. Most the best option fill in the following: two rows of shelves are installed on the sides, mezzanine shelves are made in the upper part of the cabinet, Bottom part The closet is reserved for shoes.

Fig.6.

The central part of the cabinet is a niche with a crossbar. This section is intended for outerwear, dresses, blouses, suits, etc. Clothes are hung in the closet on a crossbar. A pipe with a diameter of 25mm can be used as a crossbar. This means a special chrome-plated furniture rod. The bar is located in the middle of the niche, with an indentation of 10-15 cm on the upper side. Attached to the cabinet walls using flanges and self-tapping screws. If the length of the rod is more than 1 meter, then a special suspension is installed in the middle of it to ensure the strength of the structure.

Fig.7.

Please note that the pipe is located at a distance of approximately 180 cm from the floor. Exactly this optimal distance to make it convenient to hang and take off clothes. It is also important that the height of the niche is 150 cm. You can hang a fur coat or coat in such a niche without them touching the bottom shelf.

Niche for shoes located under the central part. The height of the niche is 40 cm. This size is enough to be able to stack boxes of shoes in two tiers. The shoe niche is separated from the central section by a partition; this will provide dust protection for outerwear. This partition is also important for giving additional rigidity to the cabinet.

There are shelves on the sides of the wardrobe. You can store any things on them. Shelf size: length 40 cm, height 35-40 cm. If the length can be arbitrary, then the height should be designed in the range of 30-40 cm. Shelves with these dimensions will be the most functional.

At the top of the cabinet there are mezzanine shelves. They have low accessibility due to the fact that they are located very high. They can be used to store rarely used items or to store seasonal items.

The considered traditional version of the wardrobe design is universal and easy to use. However, if you use modern fittings for wardrobes, you can choose more successful options. This statement can be illustrated by identifying the shortcomings of the described design and considering ways to eliminate them.

One of the disadvantages is the low availability of mezzanine shelves. This drawback can be eliminated by moving the compartment with outerwear to the place of the mezzanine, using a special mechanism.

Fig.8.

Thus, it turns out that the entire lower space is used for shelves that are at an accessible height, and top part The wardrobe is used for outerwear. This provides a special mechanism that can raise and lower the garment to a usable height.

Fig.9.

Another example of a disadvantage There may be a case when the room space does not allow making a cabinet 60 cm wide. In this case, for outerwear, you can use a special mechanism for hanging along the closet. There are several varieties of such mechanisms.

Fig. 10.

Also, when filling a wardrobe, special pull-out laundry baskets. They can be used instead of shelves and in combination with them. Despite the fact that we have considered several universal solutions to fill out, there are many more various options. Creating the perfect shelving system for you is limited only by your imagination.

Fig. 12.

Fig. 13.

Wardrobe drawings and filling options

Fig. 14.

Fig. 15.

Fig. 16.

Fig. 17.

Fig. 18.

Fig. 19.

Designing a built-in wardrobe

The built-in wardrobe is no less popular than the traditional one, due to the fact that due to its design, in appearance it looks little like a wardrobe, but more like a way to create, albeit not a large, but independent dressing room. A built-in wardrobe is usually installed in wall niches, or these niches are specially arranged. Thus, only the sliding doors remain the visible part of the closet.

Fig.20.

One of undeniable advantages built-in wardrobe is a lower cost of its manufacture. This happens due to the fact that the built-in wardrobe lacks parts of the structure of a regular wardrobe; for a built-in one, they are simply not needed. These elements include the floor, plinth, ceiling and side walls. If you use specialized systems for filling sliding wardrobes, you can do without structural furniture elements altogether.

Fig.22.

Construction of a built-in wardrobe consists of two parts: organizing a niche for the cabinet and internal shelves. Because wardrobe systems, are more expensive than construction made from chipboard, then they give preference to the latter. In essence, the shelf system is an independent cabinet, with the exception of some individual sections. The great advantage of the built-in wardrobe is the ease of assembling the shelves, due to the fact that there is no need to use hidden fasteners. This will be discussed in detail below.

As has already been mentioned several times, the sliding wardrobe is arranged in a niche, i.e. as side and rear walls The walls of the room are used as the floor and ceiling of the cabinet, the floor and ceiling of the room, respectively.

Fig.23.

Problems arise when there is no niche. In this case, the niche is made of plasterboard or the missing wall is completed from it. However, if the repairs have already been made, this option is not suitable. Therefore, quite often one of the walls is made of laminated chipboard. The result is a kind of intermediate option, because part of the design is a traditional wardrobe, and part is built-in.

Fig.24.

Designing a built-in wardrobe, just like a regular one, they start by determining its overall dimensions. In fact, the overall dimensions of the cabinet determine the overall dimensions of the niche. The niche dimensions will be the installation dimensions of the sliding doors, so they can be ordered immediately. The remaining elements of the built-in wardrobe are not connected to the doors, which allows you to modify the wardrobe during operation by adding or removing necessary elements, which is another advantage of the embedded system.

Assembling a built-in wardrobe(shelf system) is practically no different from assembling any furniture from laminated chipboard; assembly details are written below. The main difference is the installation of sliding doors. The guide and rail are not attached to the cabinet elements, but directly to the ceiling and floor. Here it is important to ensure that both elements are in the same vertical plane. Otherwise, the doors may jam. It is also important that the floor is level, otherwise the doors may open/close spontaneously.

Fig.25.

Drawings and diagrams of a built-in wardrobe

Fig.26.

Fig.27.

Fig.28.

Fig.29.

Assembling a wardrobe

The procedure for assembling a sliding wardrobe depends on the design of the wardrobe. Since each cabinet has an almost unique layout, universal instructions there is simply no tool for assembling a cabinet. However, for most cabinet designs there are several certain rules and techniques, following which you can assemble a wardrobe of any design.

It is advisable to start assembling the wardrobe from the outer walls and vertical partitions, which are attached to the floor and ceiling of the cabinet, after which the internal shelves are assembled. It should be noted that if the wardrobe has a height equal to or slightly lower than the height of the room, then it is quite difficult to assemble the wardrobe alone.

When assembling the cabinet, several types of furniture fasteners are used: eccentric coupler, confirmat, shelf holders and furniture corner. The eccentric coupler is hidden fastener it is used to connect the floor and ceiling of the cabinet with the side walls. Confirmat is used where it is necessary to connect parts, and there is no point in hiding the fasteners, for example, for fastening shelves inside a cabinet or for assembling a shelf system for a built-in wardrobe. Shelf holders are used for loosely fixed shelves. A furniture corner can be used for fastening shelves or for fastening secondary elements. Such as the base strip.

When assembling cabinet furniture, the following approach is used to assembly, first assemble individual elements, after which they are added to those already collected. All assembly is carried out on the floor. If the cabinet is approximately equal to the height of the room, this assembly option is not suitable. Assembled wardrobe in the horizontal plane it will not be possible to install it in place, because the ceiling will get in the way. Therefore, the cabinet frame must be assembled immediately on site, and the shelves can be installed at the next stage.

To understand the assembly procedure and the purpose of the fasteners, I propose to consider the assembly order of a previously designed cabinet.

Fig.30.

As already mentioned, cabinet assembly begins with the frame, i.e. First, the side walls, floor, ceiling and base parts are assembled. To ensure hidden fastening during assembly, an eccentric tie is used. An eccentric coupler requires mounting holes, so an additive is first made.