In order for the roof to perform its functions efficiently and serve for a long time, it must be insulated. There are a lot of materials and methods for installing a heat-insulating layer, and the choice suitable technology always done individually. This article will discuss how to properly install insulation on the roof of a private house.
The need for roof insulation
Of course, the final decision about whether the roof needs to be insulated is made by the owner of the house - but before that, you need to weigh all the pros and cons. The latter include additional costs for arranging the roof and the effort required to install the heat-insulating layer.
However, the financial expenses and efforts made will pay off in the future. The main advantage of roof insulation is that after installation, the level of heat loss of the entire building is reduced by an average of 15%. If the under-roof space is not intended to be used as a residential space, then the roof itself does not need to be insulated - the thermal insulation of the roof of the house in this case will be mounted on the attic floor or the ceiling of the living premises. To prevent the structure from rotting, high-quality roof ventilation is required.
Roof insulation will be most relevant when arranging a residential attic, especially if the building is located in a region with a harsh climate. In such cases, if the attic will be used all year round, you will have to pay special attention to the issues of its insulation and heating. Less stringent requirements are imposed on the insulation of summer attics.
How to properly insulate a flat roof
When insulating flat roof it is necessary to take into account that thermal insulation can be both on the internal and external outside. It is advisable to start with external insulation, and after the first winter decide whether it makes sense to insulate the roof along the rafters from the inside.
A flat roof roofing pie consists of:
- Vapor barrier layer;
- Insulation layer;
- Waterproofing layer;
- Bulk layer.
For external thermal insulation, basalt mineral wool is most often used, which is optimally suited for these purposes. However, you can choose from any types of hard insulation - for example, polystyrene foam would be a good option. It is also worth remembering that roof coverings that are prone to fire cannot be insulated with polymer heat insulators.
Insulation of a pitched roof
Thermal insulation of a pitched roof is installed on rafter system. Before laying insulation on the roof, it is necessary to design it in advance in order to avoid installation errors.
A pitched roof consists of the following elements:
- Roofing;
- Waterproofing layer;
- Thermal insulation;
- Vapor barrier material;
- Interior decoration(optional).
Mineral wool, which has high performance characteristics and has a relatively low cost. The main disadvantage mineral insulation is the ability to absorb moisture, which is why thermal insulation properties are lost over time. In addition, the presence of moisture under the roof leads to the gradual destruction of wooden parts.
To compensate for the described disadvantage, the structure must be supplemented with ventilation, hydro- and vapor barrier. The insulation itself on the roof of the house is laid on the underside of the roof during its arrangement or repair. If we are talking about repairs, then damaged wooden elements should be replaced, and new ones should be treated with protective compounds before installation.
In addition, for efficient work for insulation and reliability, the roof must be well ventilated, so you need to install ventilation ducts between:
- A layer of waterproofing and finishing coating;
- Thermal insulation and waterproofing layer;
- Vapor barrier material and internal lining.
Materials for insulating pitched roofs
Various materials can be used to insulate the roof, the most popular of which are:
- Mineral wool;
- Glass wool;
- Polyurethane foam;
- Expanded polystyrene.
The characteristics and features of the materials differ, but they all adequately protect the roof from temperature effects. It is only worth noting that it is best to select materials produced in the form of slabs - they are much more convenient to install.
To construct a waterproofing layer, ordinary roofing material or a special waterproofing membrane is most often used, which does not allow water to pass through, but ensures the removal of moisture from the heat insulator. When installing waterproofing, you need to ensure that the tightness of the material has not been compromised.
The vapor barrier can be constructed from different materials, among which:
- Ruberoid;
- Polyethylene film;
- Glassine;
- Foil materials.
However, if we are talking about a high-quality vapor barrier layer, then the best option there will be a vapor barrier membrane that works on the principle of one-way moisture transmission - condensation is removed from the insulation and does not enter the internal cavities of the roofing pie.
Algorithm for roof insulation - how to lay thermal insulation
Installation of a roof with insulation comes down to the following sequence of actions:
- First, the installation step of the rafter legs is measured. The heat-insulating material slabs are cut in accordance with the obtained dimensions, but 1 cm is added to them - this will allow the insulation to stay in place on its own. You can simplify this stage of work when installing a new roof by calculating it so that the distance between the rafters corresponds to the width of the insulation boards.
- A waterproofing layer must be installed in the space between the rafters and the finishing coating. The membrane must be attached to the rafters so that it envelops them. For fixation, you can use a construction stapler, which attaches the waterproofing to the rafters and sheathing. Waterproofing material must be applied to the eaves so that the collected moisture escapes beyond the roof. The described method of fastening does not allow for proper ventilation, so only a special waterproofing membrane should be used as a material.
- If waterproofing is already installed under top part roof, then nails are driven into the rafters every 10 cm so that the distance between them and the membrane is at least 3-5 cm. The driven nails allow you to stretch a cord along the line of which the air gap will pass in the space between the waterproofing and the heat-insulating material. If the insulation itself is attached using a cord, then the nails will also need to be hammered along the outside of the rafters.
- When using insulation materials produced in the form of slabs, installation is reduced to inserting them into the space between the rafters (naturally, they will have to be compressed a little so that they fit into the gap). Before properly insulating the roof, more rigid materials must be carefully adjusted to fit the gaps in the rafter system. For maximum efficiency, it is worth installing two-layer insulation.
- When installing narrow fragments that require joining along one of the planes, you need to make sure that the joints of the first and second layers of thermal insulation do not coincide with each other. The thermal insulation layer should not extend beyond the rafters, and if this happens, then additional timber will have to be placed on the rafters.
- To attach the insulation, a cord stretched between nails or a lath made of slats can be used. These slats need to be nailed to the rafters at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other. In this case, the vapor barrier layer must be attached before the sheathing is installed - due to the thickness of the slats, an air gap is provided.
- When installing a vapor barrier, you need to make sure that the material is installed hermetically. To do this, the joints must be covered with two layers of adhesive tape. Special attention you need to pay attention to the points where the material connects to the wall and chimney. When all structural elements are installed, you can proceed to the final stage - installation of the sheathing.
Conclusion
Roof insulation is a very important part of the structure, which allows you to increase the thermal efficiency of the roof. Knowing how to properly install insulation on a roof and high-quality performance of all work will allow you to create a reliable and high-quality structure that will perform its functions throughout the entire period of operation.
Roof insulation plays a huge role in completing construction work. Having built a house or cottage, you have to think about how to make the building as comfortable, warm and cozy as possible. Regardless of whether there will be living space in the attic or not, the roof must be insulated in any case. This will reduce heat loss and contribute to energy saving.
Do-it-yourself roof insulation
Roof insulation work does not have to be done with the help of a specialist; everything can be done with your own hands. The whole process should start with the selection necessary materials and creating a work plan and scheme. Any roof consists of an outer (roof) and an inner (floor and rafter frame) parts.
All insulation work is carried out only after checking these components, and if necessary, they are repaired. Then deleted excess moisture and get rid of dampness and mold.
To prevent bacterial damage to wooden structures, the inner surface of the roof is treated with an antiseptic, and to protect metal structures from rust, treat such surfaces with anti-corrosion compounds.
Insulation materials
Modern manufacturers offer a wide range of materials for roof insulation. The most popular are:
- Mineral wool (fiberglass, stone slabs);
- Extruded polystyrene foam;
- Polyurethane foam.
The material you choose is determined by the features of the roof. For example, it is preferable to insulate pitched roofs with fiberglass.
Fiberglass
This material has excellent heat-insulating and sound-proofing properties. Fiberglass is also durable, its service life reaches fifty years, it is fire-resistant and vapor-permeable. And, of course, the price; purchasing such material is a very inexpensive pleasure.
The most popular materials in use are mineral wool and polystyrene foam. This popularity is due to the ease of manipulation with them.
Mineral wool
Depending on the original type of material (stone or glass), mineral wool is divided into two types:
— the fibrous structure of the material, formed by melting small particles of rock, as well as various slags and mixtures obtained in industrial metallurgy, makes the product truly unique.
The material is not afraid high temperatures, and is also quite resistant to aggressive chemicals. 
Glass wool- a heat-insulating material containing air fibers that are particularly durable. The product is obtained by melting ordinary glass. Like stone wool, the insulation is highly resistant to chemical products and does not burn.
The thermal conductivity of glass wool is 0.05 W/m°C at 25°C. During operation, glass wool practically does not shrink, and its fibrous structure, even after a long period of time, remains the same elastic and elastic. 
Mineral wool has excellent characteristics in the following indicators:
- Low thermal conductivity;
- Excellent sound insulation;
- Fire resistance, which is very important for roof material;
- Highly environmentally friendly and durable.
Foam plastic and penoplex
Both insulation materials have a fairly small specific gravity, therefore, their use does not weigh down the roof, and also does not involve the additional use of material insulating from steam, since neither foam plastic nor absorb moisture.
Polyurethane foam
One of modern materials is .
It does not need to be glued or nailed to the surface, but is applied by spraying onto it. This material has excellent adhesion to surfaces and as a result a durable, seamless structure is formed that does not allow cold or moisture to pass through.
Insulating the ceiling in a house with a cold roof
Once the materials have been selected, you can proceed directly to the process of laying the material. The specifics of this process depend on the roof design and the future use of the attic.
If the attic is not intended to be used as a living space, then the insulating material is placed on the attic floor between the joists, and not between the roof rafters. A membrane is laid on top to improve vapor permeability, then it can be covered with any floor covering. 
To prevent the formation of “cold bridges,” the insulation should fit as tightly as possible to the joists. To do this, when cutting insulation, its size must be determined according to 1-2 cm. wider than the distance between the joists.
Insulating the attic from the inside
If you decide to equip the attic as a living space, you should insulate the roof with your own hands using a different technology:
- Initially, a waterproofing layer is laid to protect the insulating material from getting wet. To do this, a waterproofing membrane is laid on top of the sheathing and secured with counter-lattice bars;
- Then the insulation itself is laid between the rafters. To avoid the formation of gaps, during installation you should follow the same technology as when insulating the ceiling - the insulation should be wider by 1-2 cm.
- As a vapor-permeable layer, a vapor barrier film is attached on top of the insulation and overlapped at the joints;
- The film is secured on top with bars, which will serve as the basis for the finishing.
How and with what to insulate a flat roof
Insulation of a flat roof takes place according to a slightly different scheme. The beginning of work is the determination of the purpose of the room. Intended use of the attic gym or some other place for entertaining suggests that the roof must be really strong to withstand serious loads.
- To form a slight roof slope on reinforced concrete slab make a cement screed;
- Then, as in the case of a pitched roof, a waterproofing layer is laid;
- Upon completion of these works, everything is covered on top with a layer of heat-insulating material (foam plastic, stone wool, extruded polystyrene foam, etc.), on top of which a layer of fiberglass or geotextile is laid.
- And the final stage is the filling of pebbles or a layer of gravel and the subsequent laying of floor or paving slabs.
If there is no living space under the roof, then the vapor barrier layer and insulation are laid in the attic, and the waterproofing layer is placed under the roofing material. And in case of complete non-use of the attic space of a flat roof, insulation is carried out either from the inside or from the outside.
By insulating your roof you will not only get additional square meters, but also reliable protection for home from severe frosts in winter and sultry heat in summer.
For a long time in Rus', there were no problems with roof insulation at all: straw was knitted or reeds were dried, and that’s all - the roof of the house was reliably protected from both rain and cold. But modern coatings do not have any heat-insulating properties at all, and with all the development of progress, up to 30% of all heat leaks through such a roof.
Therefore, if you do not want to warm the atmosphere, study in detail the insulation of the roof from the inside - in this article we will cover all the points!
Conventionally, roof insulation in the construction world is divided into attic, when the roof slopes are insulated, and attic, when the ceiling is thermally insulated.
Like this? We can say that attics also have their own attic - this ventilation gap between internal insulation and laid roofing. The fact is that heat, according to all the laws of physics, always rises and seeks its release into the atmosphere. It passes through both the insulation and the vapor barrier, and together with water vapor. And then in the eaves plumb he pulls himself up outside air, which passes to the ridge and along the way picks up both vapors and excess heat. Through aerators or the same ridge, all this is safely removed and does not cause any problems.
Those. in an ordinary, unused roof, the attic occupies the entire space from the ridge to the attic floor, and in the attic, the attic is just a small space under the slopes between the insulation and the roofing. And insulating both types of roofs has its own approach, which we will now study.
Cold roof insulation technology
If your roof is cold, then the heat-insulating layer should not be on the slopes, but on the floor of the attic. This is where it stops the heat flow coming from below and prevents the cold from the roof from descending into the living space below. As a result, the temperature in the attic is kept within +1-2 degrees, the roofing material is not heated. In fact, such an attic serves as a necessary air gap between the living rooms of the house and the thin roof slab.
All roll, slab and bulk insulation materials. Because the ceiling does not have a slope, it does not have any special requirements for the heat-insulating material used: nothing will crumble or be exposed.
Please ensure that after the roof is insulated, there remains properly organized ventilation: there must be dormer windows, located opposite each other, ventilation ridges and aerators, and in the eaves there is round-the-clock access to suck in outside air. As a result, the temperature in non-residential attic should be as close as possible to the street, and the living space below is already separated from it by proper thermal insulation of the ceiling.
Now let's take a closer look at insulating a cold roof.
Insulation with mineral wool
When insulating the attic floor with mineral wool, first of all pay attention to the distance between the slats or joists - it should be slightly less than the roll or mat of insulation.
Typically, thermal insulation of the roof interior is complicated uneven surface floor of the attic, differences in its height, a large number of slats and bars, not to mention ventilation pipes and electrical wiring:
Ecowool insulation
If you want the house to breathe and steam to escape easily, then insulate the attic floor with modern eco-wool:
Insulation with blown-in cotton wool
Recently, blowing - roof insulation with blown-in cotton wool has become increasingly popular. The Japanese “insulation” Esbro-Vul II is used here, which does not emit dust and therefore does not create problems. And the blowing method itself is actually quite simple:
- Step 1. Place a vertical ruler on the floor and mark the required height of mineral wool spraying.
- Step 2. Apply insulation in an even layer to the desired level.
- Step 3. We lay the insulation so tightly that it weighs 25 kg per cubic meter.
Note that this type of insulation is the most popular in Japan, and has already found many supporters in Russia.
Glass wool insulation
And finally, glass wool - if you will not use the attic at all. The fact is that even glass wool closed under the sheathing sometimes causes irritation to the ENT organs. This is why you have to wear a respirator and goggles when working with it:
Insulation with sawdust
When insulating a roof with sawdust, follow these instructions:
- Step 1. First of all, you need to protect the wooden structure. To do this, we first apply antiseptic composition, then - fire-bioprotective mixtures, and on top - water repellents.
- Step 2. The next step is to place a backing (cardboard is possible) and close the seams and cracks, if any, with foam (large) or sealant (small). When finished, we trim off the foam that has come out and level it with the beams.
- Step 3. Now we fill in the sawdust in two layers: first the larger fraction, as well as shavings, and then the fine ones, so that dust does not form in the room.
- Step 4. To prevent rodents from growing on the attic floor, add dry lime and small broken glass to the sawdust.
Warm roof insulation technology
The mansard roof is a special design. There is also a cold attic here, only it is very small, because... the insulated attic ceiling is pulled almost flush against it using additional sheathing. In fact, there is only space for ventilation, and nothing more. And ventilation serves to ensure that the heat from the attic does not touch the roofing, on which the snow in winter should remain as a heat insulator and not melt.
Here is a vivid example of the most standard situation improper insulation attics: install the cheapest 15 cm rafters, lay fluffy mineral wool in two layers of 5 cm and cover it all with roofing. Ventilation - only 5 cm, without inflow and outlet, because... There was no specialist nearby to advise. As a result, in the summer there is unbearable heat, from which even air conditioners cannot help, and in the winter there is a generous amount of ice on the roof. And all because in this circuit it is the street air that heats up the most. In other words, that very small attic that we talked about must definitely be there, and far from 5 cm.
And in such a roof you need to think through the vapor barrier especially carefully:
And further. The material used to make rafters is always designed for a certain weight. Yes, the roof is under soft tiles You can also build from drywall profiles, just insulate it with heavy basalt wool it is forbidden. Also, the attic roof needs good forced ventilation so that the insulation does not rot or deteriorate. Therefore, carefully read all the points of the master classes we prepared:
Insulation with mineral wool
Follow these simple instructions:
- Step 1. Install hydro and wind protection. If possible, use modern membranes - they are stronger and more durable. In any case, fasten the material with an overlap, and seal all joints with construction tape.
- Step 2. Now measure the distance between adjacent rafters.
- Step 3. Using a regular or stationery knife, easily cut the insulation into the required pieces and insert it between the rafters.
- Step 4. Install between the membrane and internal lining additional sheathing.
Please note that you need to attach the vapor barrier membrane with the smooth side to the insulation, and the fleecy side - inside the room.
If the distance between the beams is no more than 60 centimeters, it will be more convenient for you to use square insulation mats:
- Step 1. It is advisable to add rough sheathing inside, under the rafters, so that the insulation has something to rest on. Make the distance between the bars about 20-30 cm. Ordinary uncut wood with nails is also quite suitable for this purpose average size, it is only important that the bars are of the same thickness.
- Step 2. After installing the rough sheathing inside the structure, remove all dust and dirt using a construction vacuum cleaner.
- Step 3. Next we process everything wooden special means from fungus, rot and mold. Just use for this purpose not a spray gun, which is less effective, but a regular paint brush. With its help, you can achieve deep penetration of the product into the wood, and this is important.
- Step 4. Allow the product to completely absorb and dry for two to three days.
As a result, all your sheets should lie tightly - a little tighter than you need at first glance. This is the only way to avoid the presence of cracks and subsequent freezing of the roof.
And one more point: ordinary mineral wool slabs are not particularly suitable for insulating roof slopes, because... They don’t stick well between the rafters, but they can be used to insulate gables.
Glass wool insulation
To insulate roof slopes, purchase the best glass wool from well-known manufacturers. Such glass wool practically does not contain dangerous glass dust, which is what annoys workers the most. Also, even after installation it does not emit harmful substances, which is even confirmed by the Finnish Institute of Health. After all, it’s one thing to throw this “thorn” onto the ceiling of an unused attic, and another thing to cover it with clapboard in a billiard room or personal account on the attic floor.
Combined insulation
If desired and appropriate, you can insulate the roof from the inside with two different types of insulation at the same time. But one important point must be taken into account - vapor permeability. The point is that when choosing different insulation materials for an effective combination, we usually only summarize their thermal insulating properties. But their vapor permeability is completely different!
And, if, for example, you put mineral wool down first when insulating, and foam plastic on top, then the water vapor that gets into the wool will begin to tend to the colder part of the roof and bury itself in the absolutely non-breathable foam plastic. As a result, all the insulation will simply suffocate and “delight” with mold. But on the contrary, it is possible: first we put foam plastic on the bottom of the rafters, and then mineral wool on it. If some steam passes through the vapor barrier and the cracks between the foam boards, it will easily overcome the mineral wool and enter the ventilation duct. Therefore, there is such a rule: the top layer of insulation should always have high vapor permeability and thermal conductivity.
And finally, if warm roof will be used as a sauna or an additional bathroom, insulation and roofing in it need to be thought out especially carefully.
Roof insulation is one of the most important stages in the construction of a private house, so the choice of materials for it must be approached responsibly. A poorly insulated roof will lead to heat leakage, discomfort from living in the house and other problems associated with paying for utilities, so it is much easier to insulate the building.
Is it worth insulating the roof of a house?
Whether you choose to insulate the roof of your house or abstain is up to you, but this type of work implies the following advantages:
Therefore, there is no need to doubt the need for roof insulation.
When choosing a material for roof insulation, consider not only its temperature characteristics, but also moisture resistance, environmental friendliness, resistance to negative formations, as well as diffusion and capillary humidification.
What materials are suitable for roof insulation?
A lot depends on the correct type of insulation for the roof, for example, how well the heat will be retained in the building, whether the finishing inside will be preserved, and so on. Today there are many insulation materials on the market, but the most popular are:
- Basalt wool - has water-repellent characteristics, does not compact and does not change its qualities during operation. It is environmentally friendly and fireproof, has excellent sound and heat insulation properties. Used as insulation for external and interior work on the roof. However, additional vapor barrier is required in rooms with high humidity.
When insulating with basalt wool, it is necessary to lay a layer of vapor barrier on the residential side - Expanded clay - used for insulation of different types of roofs. On flat roofs it is laid out on the outer surface or floor slab, compacted, and then screeded, which leads to a significant increase in the load on the entire structure. On pitched roofs, expanded clay is used to cover the ceilings of the attic floor.
Expanded clay is poured into the space between the floor joists of the attic and covered with a vapor barrier membrane on top - Foamed glass - the material is resistant to deformation, water, steam, does not burn, is durable, and is also biologically resistant. It is used for thermal insulation of any type of roof. It has weak adhesion, so during installation it is necessary to use polymer acetate glue.
Before applying foam glass, the roof surface is treated with a special adhesive composition - Ecowool is an environmentally friendly insulation material made from waste paper. Its excellent sound and heat insulation properties help to insulate the roof well. Microorganisms and various rodents do not live in ecowool, as it is treated with special bioprotective substances and fire retardants. It's inexpensive and lightweight material. Disadvantages are the need to use special equipment during installation and special preparation for installation.
To apply a layer of ecowool you need a special technique - Sawdust - breathable, clean and not allergic material. However, it rots, is flammable and, in addition, rodents can live in it. It is used mainly for ceiling insulation and provided that the attic will not be used.
Sawdust harbors rodents, so they are rarely used and only in non-residential premises - Isolon, penofol - a material with a porous structure, very thin (several millimeters) and very light. It is capable of reflecting up to 95% of solar energy, so it is used as a hydro- and thermal insulation material. Isolon is produced not only in sheets, but also in rolls.
Izolon is very easy to install and reflects heat thanks to its foil surface - Mineral wool is produced from dolomite, slag or other rocks using special technology. The material is safe, its moisture resistance is low, so it is not used in rooms with high humidity (baths, saunas, steam rooms). When used in private residential buildings, mineral wool must be protected with a layer of vapor barrier on the side of the room.
A layer of vapor barrier must be laid on top of the mineral wool. - Polystyrene foam is the most popular type of insulation, as it has low cost and easy to install. The material is made by foaming polystyrene, which is resistant to moisture, can be easily cut with a regular knife, has low thermal conductivity and is easy to install. But polystyrene foam is fragile, capable of supporting a fire and releasing toxic substances, so it is used mainly in non-residential premises.
Foam releases harmful substances when burning, therefore it is not recommended to use it in residential premises - Penoplex is a comfortable, strong and durable material, not susceptible to moisture and rot, has low water absorption and excellent resistance to compression. It is not subject to decomposition and is fireproof.
Penoplex does not absorb moisture and does not support combustion
The roof can also be insulated with polymer foam materials, such as polypropylene foam, polyolefin foam, penoizol, and so on. However, they are not so common and are quite expensive.
Photo gallery: methods of roof insulation
Ecowool does not allow heat and sound to pass through, and is also treated with special substances, so rodents do not live in it. Mineral wool must be protected from moisture with a layer of waterproofing. Polyurethane foam does not require the installation of a waterproofing layer and lathing for attaching the insulation. To achieve the maximum degree of thermal protection, it is necessary to insulate not only the roof, but also the roof. but also the ceiling between the attic and the living floor. Sprayed insulation can be applied under the existing sheathing structure
Comparison and review of materials for roof insulation
Tips to follow before starting roof insulation work
Regardless of what type of insulation you choose, when step-by-step implementation work, the following important recommendations must be observed:
- The heat-protective layer is made continuous, especially at the most important areas buildings: adjacent to walls, windows, pipes, and so on.
- When using mineral fiber as insulation, remember that the area of the material will increase by approximately 20% after installation.
- Thermal insulation boards should not cover ventilation gaps.
- When using a superdiffusion membrane for vapor barrier, the insulation should be placed as close to it as possible. Then the ventilation gap will not be closed.
Insulation boards must be laid close to the vapor barrier membrane, then a ventilated gap of the required size will be formed on top - When using under-roofing film, several gaps are created - “above” and “under” the film.
- The insulation joints are placed in a checkerboard pattern in adjacent layers.
- The individual parts of the insulation must adhere carefully to each other.
At the joints, the insulation boards must fit tightly to each other to prevent the formation of cold bridges - Thermal insulation is laid as tightly as possible due to its width, which should be several centimeters greater than the distance between the parts of the rafter system.
- If the rafter system has a large pitch, then the insulation is also attached from the side of the rooms. To do this in rafter legs Self-tapping screws are screwed in, and wire is stretched between the fasteners.
- A waterproofing layer is made if mineral wool materials are used to insulate the roof. Installation of the moisture-proofing film is carried out not only with an overlap, but also by gluing all joints with tape.
The waterproofing film must be laid from bottom to top, with an overlap, which is then taped with adhesive tape. - The insulation is laid between the rafters as evenly as possible.
- Cellulose insulation does not require a vapor barrier.
- The insulation must cover all the space that has been allocated for it. The formation of areas that allow air to pass through is unacceptable.
The insulation should lie flat, without bends or distortions. - Buy ready-made insulation systems, since manufacturers have already thought through most of the main points at the stage of creating the material, from waterproofing to additional characteristics.
- Compliance technological processes in roofing installation guarantees you the absence of defects at all stages of work.
Do-it-yourself roof insulation
If you plan to work on your own, carefully study the recommendations outlined above and select the insulation material. If all this has already been done, then you can start.
How to prepare a roof for insulation
The first step in preparing the roof for insulation is to draw up a clear work plan. Check the structure from all sides for deformation, get rid of dampness, moisture and other defects. Wooden elements Roofs must be treated with an antiseptic, and metal roofs must be treated with a special anti-corrosion substance.
The developed roof insulation plan should provide for heat retention in the room and good ventilation of the under-roof space Make sure that insulation and other materials for thermal insulation are always dry, since high humidity will lead to significant heat loss (up to 70%). Water and rust are unacceptable; vapor barrier and ventilation of the under-roof space will help get rid of it.
Check the operation of the heating elements, water supply, as well as electric wires.
The second stage is preparing the necessary tools and materials. To work you will need:
- hacksaw;
- building level;
- goniometer;
- screwdriver;
- drill;
- plane;
- Bulgarian;
- small hammer.
Roof insulation from the inside
Work on internal roof insulation is carried out in the following way:
Internal insulation This is done no earlier than six months after the completion of the roof, which during this time should shrink completely. Otherwise, the structure will “lead” and the insulation will shift.
Video: do-it-yourself roof insulation from the inside
Roof insulation from the outside
Thermal insulation of the roof from the outside is done as follows:
Video: roof insulation with sprayed material
Insulation of the gable from the inside
The easiest option to insulate a pediment from the inside is to lay thermal insulation material (mineral wool or polystyrene foam) between its base. A half-brick pediment is simply insulated - a sheathing is made of bars and heat-insulating material is installed on them. You can do this work yourself:
The gables are insulated with inside on tall buildings or in the cold season, when work cannot be done outside. The insulation can be mineral wool or polystyrene foam, cork material or penoizol, which will be protected by the roof from the effects of precipitation.
Exterior gable insulation
From the outside, the pediment is insulated in the following sequence:
Today, sandwich panels can be purchased to insulate exterior gables. This is insulation, which is located between two plywood sheets that have high degree moisture resistance. Sandwich panels perfectly protect the attic of a building from the cold and are very quickly installed.
In an uninsulated building, heat loss can reach 40%. It is very important to choose the right roofing insulation and produce it quality installation. The roof needs to be insulated not only when building a new house, but also when reconstructing an old one.
Roof insulation from the inside is carried out not only to install in the attic extra room, but also for maximum heat retention throughout the house.
If the building has mansard roof, then insulation is carried out directly on the roof itself, which is not only the roof, but also the walls for the future room. If the structure has one slope, then most often the thermal insulation is installed in the attic floor.
The third option for thermal insulation measures is used in regions with harsh climates, where both the roof itself and the ceiling are insulated from the inside.
Types of insulation used
The modern building materials market offers quite a lot types of insulation, of which you can choose the one suitable for any thermal insulation work.
- Bulk materials are sawdust, expanded clay of different fractions, slag, dry leaves or pine needles. These insulation materials are used for filling into the attic floor, and they perfectly protect the lower rooms of the house from the penetration of cold, but they will not be able to make the attic itself warm.
- Mineral wool various types, expanded polystyrene, penoflex and polyurethane foam are suitable for insulating both attic floors and.
All these materials are quite light, so they will not weigh down the structure of the roof and the entire house, but will make it much warmer. Installation technologies thermal insulation materials differ from each other, so it is worth considering some of them.
It should be noted that with the advent auxiliary materials, which facilitate the work process and are aimed at protecting the thermal insulation itself from external influences and preserving its performance qualities, it has become easier to carry out the installation process.
Video: mineral wool is an excellent material for roof insulation
Prices for mineral wool
Mineral wool
Vapor barrier coatings
One such material is vapor barrier film. It is designed to protect wooden structures and insulation from exposure to vapors that occur during temperature changes and lead to the formation of condensation. Excess moisture causes the appearance mold fungus, which destroys the structure of the wood, reduces the thermal insulation characteristics of the insulation and contributes to the appearance of an unpleasant odor in the room.
The vapor barrier membrane is fixed to the roof or ceiling structure before laying insulation materials.
When using a vapor barrier film in a heated room, it is placed only under the finishing layer of the walls.
To protect structures that are exposed to high temperatures on one side, and on the other - low, vapor barrier must be located on both sides. Such structures include wooden attic floors and roofing when it is insulated. Concrete plates do not require installation of vapor barrier materials.
Protective film may have different thickness and be of different types - a regular non-woven material or a foil membrane. If the latter is used on an attic floor structure, it is laid with foil down, as it reflects the heat rising from below to the ceiling, thereby preventing it from escaping outside. The sheets of material are fastened together with foil tape, which helps create a tight seal.
Prices for various types of insulating films
Insulating films
Insulation of the attic floor
Any insulation measures are best carried out during the process of building a house, but, unfortunately, very often it is done only when they feel the winter cold.
Before filling or laying insulation, you need to carry out preparatory work. This is especially important if fine-grained expanded clay and sawdust slag are used.
- Previously, when there were no modern auxiliary materials on sale, the wooden attic floor was prepared as follows:
— The boards attached to the floor beams were carefully coated with a solution of clay or lime having a medium-thick consistency. These natural materials create good tightness of the ceiling, but at the same time allow the entire structure to “breathe”.
— After the clay or lime had completely dried, insulation work was carried out. Previously, slag, sawdust, dry leaves, or a mixture of these materials were mainly used for this. They were poured between the beams onto prepared boards.
It should be noted that the old traditional method is quite reliable, and therefore some builders even prefer it to modern ones to this day.
- IN modern construction Basically, a special vapor barrier film is used for flooring under insulation. Its canvases are laid completely over the entire area of the attic, overlapping by 15-20 cm, deepening between the floor beams and secured to boards and beams. It is recommended to glue the canvases together with construction tape.
The film will become an additional barrier to the escape of heat from the premises of the house through the ceiling, since the heated air rising, not finding a way out, will descend and remain inside the house.
- Next, insulation material is poured onto the film, mineral wool is laid, expanded clay is poured, or the openings between the beams are filled with ecowool. You can also use previously used insulation - slag or sawdust.
- To avoid the occurrence of cold bridges across wooden beams, they also need to be secured with a layer of thin insulation.
- Above insulation material another layer of vapor barrier is laid, the same as before - overlapping. This layer of film is secured to the floor beams with slats, which are more often called counter slats.
- A covering of boards or thick plywood is laid on top.
Sometimes the vapor barrier can be fixed from the inside of the room to wooden ceiling, but in this case it will need to be trimmed, for example, plasterboard boards. They will level the ceiling and become another additional insulating layer.
Insulation of roof slopes
When insulating roof slopes, as well as when insulating floors, use mineral wool and polystyrene foam, but mineral wool in this case it is preferable, since it has practically zero flammability.
If you still decide to use polystyrene foam, it is recommended to purchase an extruded version. Although it has a slightly higher thermal conductivity, it is not flammable, and this is very important for wooden structures.
To insulate roof slopes they use different systems, but they necessarily contain a layer vapor barrier material, insulation, waterproofing and counter-lattice.
1. This diagram shows one of the options for the insulation “pie”. It is used in the construction of roofs and roof coverings.
- It is laid on the rafter system. Typically, high-density polyethylene (more than 200 microns thick) is used for this layer - it will protect the roof not only from moisture, but from wind penetration under it. The film is laid with an overlap of 20 ÷ 25 cm and secured to the rafters using staples and a stapler.
- A counter-batten with a thickness of 5 ÷ 7 mm is fixed on top of the film on each rafter. It is necessary so that the roofing material does not adhere directly to the waterproofing film, and there is a small distance between them for air circulation.
- Further, if the roof slopes are covered with soft roofing material, it is necessary to lay plywood on top of the counter slats. In the case when slate or other hard material is used sheet material, instead of plywood, a sheathing is installed, the width between its slats is calculated according to the length of the sheets of roofing material.
- When the sheathing is ready, the roof is covered with the selected coating.
After this, you can move on to insulation measures, which are carried out from the inside, that is, from the attic.
- Mats of mineral wool or other insulation are laid between the rafters. They should fit as tightly as possible between the elements wooden structure. Installation of mats is carried out starting from the bottom, gradually rising to the ridge. The insulation should have a thickness the same as the width of the rafters or slightly less her, approximately 10 ÷ 15 mm.
- The laid insulation is covered with a vapor barrier film, which is secured to the rafters with slats. The film is also overlapped and glued with construction tape.
The last stage is decorative finishing of the walls of the attic room - Further, if the attic space will be equipped with living room, then the entire surface is covered with plasterboard or clapboard. In addition, in this case, in addition to the walls and ceiling, the floors, that is, the attic floor, are also insulated.
2. Another option could be a thicker insulating “pie”, which is also installed immediately when installing the roof.
- In this case, a waterproofing windproof film is also laid on the rafter system.
- A sheathing for roofing material is placed on top of it.
- Next, from the attic side, the first one is laid between the rafters. a layer of insulation that must have equal to the width of the rafters.
- Then transverse slats are placed on the rafters at a distance from each other equal to the width of the insulation of the next layer. In this case, thinner insulation is used. Its thickness should be equal to the thickness of the padded cross slats.
- After this comes a vapor barrier film, which is secured to the slats with brackets.
- The interior finishing material is then attached to the slats.
If the roof is insulated in an already built house where the roofing covering is fixed, then a vapor barrier is secured to the rafters from the attic side with brackets, and only after that the insulation is laid. Further the process is underway the same as in the previous versions.
Roof insulation from the inside with polyurethane foam
Insulation with polyurethane foam proceeds differently than bulk materials or mineral wool and foam mats.
This method of thermal insulation has recently become increasingly popular and is suitable for both ordinary attics and the attic, which will later become an additional room.
If the attic is ventilated and there will be no living space in it, then only the attic floor is insulated. To do this, it is recommended to moisten the boards and beams for better adhesion, and a thin layer of polyurethane foam is sprayed onto the wet surface between the beams. After it foams, increases in volume and hardens, if necessary, another layer is applied. Such insulation will be quite enough to keep the house warm, since the foam penetrates into all the cracks and seals them hermetically.
If the attic’s height allows for a room to be built in it, or the attic is an attic superstructure to the house, in addition to covering it with polyurethane foam, the roof slopes are also insulated.
Spraying begins from the bottom of the structure, gradually rising to the ridge. Foam is sprayed between the rafters, and its lower layers, rising and hardening, will serve as support for the next upper layers applied.
A similar or attic creates a completely sealed, unventilated space. Polyurethane foam will retain heat well indoors winter time and will not allow the attic to overheat on hot summer days. However, ventilation should still be provided, since the room must receive air flow.
This type of thermal insulation has the following advantages over other insulation materials:
- The polyurethane foam coating has no joints or seams throughout the entire insulated area.
- A significant reduction in temperature changes in the attic and rooms on the lower floors is achieved.
- The building receives reliable protection from low and high temperatures affecting the house from the outside.
- This method of insulation shows a high payback in a very short time, by reducing heating costs due to the low thermal conductivity of the sprayed material.
- When spraying polyurethane foam directly onto the roof, it receives additional rigidity and strength, as for the roofing coating forms a reliable connection with the entire roof structure. At the same time, the polyurethane foam layer does not lead to significant weighting of the roof.
- Convenience application - foam covers all hard-to-reach areas of the roof and ceiling, penetrating into all large and small holes and cracks, expanding and sealing walls and floors.
- Polyurethane foam is highly resistant to moisture, to the appearance any forms of biological life, high and low temperatures, prevents the emergence and development of wood decay processes.
- Foam not only provides excellent thermal insulation for rooms, but also insulates well from extraneous noise from the outside.
- Polyurethane foam does not shrink, wrinkle or soften.
- The insulation has enough long term service, which is about 30 years.
- The material does not emit substances toxic to the human body or unpleasant odors.
The “disadvantages” of sprayed insulation include the following factors:
- The material is toxic when applied, so you need to work using protective equipment.
Uncured polyurethane foam is quite toxic, so all work is carried out with mandatory skin, eye and respiratory protection. - Polyurethane foam is susceptible to the negative effects of ultraviolet rays, so after applying insulation it must be closed finishing material, for example, clapboard, plywood or drywall.
- For installation work For insulation with polyurethane foam, it is necessary to have special expensive equipment. True, if you have the skills to work with this material, then the equipment can be rented. But in the case when this work is unfamiliar, it is better not to take risks, but to invite specialists with equipment to spray the material.
Video: spraying polyurethane foam on roof slopes from the inside
Insulation of the attic and roof is necessary for buildings located in most Russian regions, therefore, this process should not be postponed “for later”, but thermal insulation work should be carried out at the stage of building a house. With the exception of the method of spraying polyurethane, all other insulation measures can be carried out independently, following the work technology. If you enlist the help of a friend, roof insulation can easily be completed in a few days.