Is it necessary to dig up fruit trees in the spring? Watering fruit trees in autumn. Spraying plants with chemicals and bioactive substances

Autumn preparation of the garden for the coming winter is extremely important. This will guarantee that next year you will reap a rich harvest. But not everyone knows what needs to be done during this period. Let's consider in our article the main points on caring for fruit trees in the fall.

Stages of caring for fruit trees in autumn

Tree pruning as the first stage of garden care in the fall. In the fall, all weak, tangled, broken, and dried branches need to be removed from trees. Inspect the trees and make sure that all shoots are growing correctly, do not interfere with each other and do not block the penetration of sun and air. All work on crown formation can be done with pruning shears or a saw if the branches are old and thick.

Removal of growths, lichens, moss, and tops. All sores require immediate removal. You can clean them using a scraper brush. Tops are shoots growing from dormant buds on old branches. Sometimes they appear after damage to the tree. Removing them helps to reduce the density of the crown and stimulate the growth of young, regular shoots.

Bark protection is an essential part of caring for fruit trees in the fall. If you do not paint tree trunks with lime or another white solution, their bark can become severely cracked due to changes in night and day temperatures. Coloring also protects against pests. In addition to whitewashing, you can use wrapping the trunks with protective nets, burlap, etc.

It is produced after harvesting. It increases the winter hardiness of plants and promotes better yields next year. In the fall you need to add organic and mineral supplements, avoiding fresh manure and nitrogen fertilizers. After applying fertilizers, you need to water well and mulch the soil.

Spraying with pesticides- this is also a stage of caring for trees when they autumn preparation for winter. Helps get rid of existing diseases and pests and prevent them. Spraying is carried out late autumn when all the leaves have already fallen from the trees.

Uprooting and removing all dead trees. If there are dry, dead, completely hopeless trees in the garden, they need to be uprooted. First you need to remove the above-ground part of the plant, after which all that remains is a stump. Then you need to dig up the skeletal roots at a distance of about half a meter from it and chop them.

Among the countless varieties and hybrids of sweet peppers, there are those, such as the Ramiro pepper, whose popularity is literally worldwide. And if most vegetables on supermarket shelves are nameless, and it is almost impossible to find out about their variety, then the name of this pepper “Ramiro” will certainly be on the packaging. And, as my experience has shown, this pepper is worth letting other gardeners know about it. In connection with which this article was written.

Autumn is the most mushroom time. It is no longer hot, and heavy dew falls in the mornings. Since the earth is still warm, and foliage has already attacked from above, creating a completely special microclimate in the ground layer, the mushrooms are very comfortable. Mushroom pickers are also comfortable at this time, especially in the mornings when it is cooler. It's time for both to meet. And, if you haven’t introduced yourself to each other, get to know each other. In this article I will introduce you to exotic, little-known and not always edible mushrooms, similar to corals.

If you are a busy person, but at the same time not devoid of romance, if you have your own plot and are endowed with aesthetic taste, then explore the opportunity to purchase this wonderful ornamental shrub– karyopteris, or Nutwing. He is also “wing-hazel”, “blue fog” and “ blue Beard" It truly fully combines unpretentiousness and beauty. Karyopteris reaches its peak of decorativeness in late summer and autumn. It is at this time that it blooms.

Pepper ajvar - vegetable caviar or thick vegetable sauce from bell pepper with eggplants. The peppers for this recipe are baked for quite a long time, then they are also stewed. Onions, tomatoes, and eggplants are added to ajvar. To store eggs for the winter, they are sterilized. This Balkan recipe is not for those who like to make preparations quickly, undercooked and underbaked - not about ajvar. In general, we approach the matter in detail. For the sauce, we choose the ripest and meatiest vegetables on the market.

Despite the simple names (“sticky” or “indoor maple”) and the status of a modern substitute for indoor hibiscus, abutilons are far from the simplest plants. They grow well, bloom profusely and delight with a healthy look of greenery only in optimal conditions. On thin leaves, any deviations from comfortable lighting or temperatures and disturbances in care quickly appear. To reveal the beauty of abutilons in rooms, it is worth finding the ideal place for them.

Zucchini fritters with Parmesan and mushrooms - a delicious recipe with photos of available products. Regular zucchini pancakes It can easily be turned into a fun dish by adding a few savory ingredients to the dough. During the squash season, pamper your family with vegetable pancakes with wild mushrooms; it is not only very tasty, but also filling. Zucchini - versatile vegetable, it is suitable for stuffing, for preparations, for main courses, and even for sweets delicious recipes- compotes and jam are made from zucchini.

The idea of ​​growing vegetables on the grass, under the grass and in the grass is scary at first, until you become imbued with the naturalness of the process: in nature, this is exactly how everything happens. With the obligatory participation of all soil living creatures: from bacteria and fungi to moles and toads. Each of them contributes. Traditional tillage with digging, loosening, fertilizing, and fighting all those we consider pests destroys the biocenoses that have been created over centuries. In addition, it requires a lot of labor and resources.

What to do instead of a lawn? So that all this beauty does not turn yellow, does not get sick and at the same time looks like a lawn... I hope that the smart and quick-witted reader is already smiling. After all, the answer suggests itself - if you do nothing, nothing will happen. Of course, there are several solutions that can be used, and with their help, you can reduce the area of ​​​​the lawn, and therefore reduce the labor intensity of caring for it. I suggest you consider alternative options and discuss their pros and cons.

Tomato sauce with onions and sweet peppers - thick, aromatic, with pieces of vegetables. The sauce cooks quickly and is thick because this recipe contains pectin. Make such preparations at the end of summer or autumn, when the vegetables have ripened in the sun in the garden beds. Bright, red tomatoes will produce just as bright homemade ketchup. This sauce is a ready-made dressing for spaghetti, and you can also simply spread it on bread - very tasty. For better preservation, you can add a little vinegar.

This year I often observed a picture: among the luxurious green crown of trees and shrubs, here and there, like candles, the bleached tops of shoots “burn.” This is chlorosis. Most of us know about chlorosis from school biology lessons. I remember that this is a lack of iron... But chlorosis is an ambiguous concept. And lightening of foliage does not always mean a lack of iron. What is chlorosis, what our plants lack during chlorosis and how to help them, we will tell you in the article.

Korean vegetables for the winter - delicious korean salad with tomatoes and cucumbers. The salad is sweet and sour, spicy and slightly spicy because it is prepared with Korean carrot seasoning. Be sure to prepare several jars for the winter, cold winter This healthy and flavorful snack will come in handy. You can use overripe cucumbers for the recipe; it is better to prepare vegetables in late summer or early autumn, when they are ripe in open ground under the sun.

Autumn for me means dahlias. Mine begin to bloom as early as June, and all summer the neighbors peek at me over the fence, reminding them that I promised them a few tubers or seeds by the fall. In September, a tart note appears in the aroma of these flowers, hinting at the approaching cold. This means it’s time to start preparing the plants for the long, cold winter. In this article I will share my secrets autumn care for perennial dahlias and preparing them for winter storage.

To date, through the efforts of breeders, according to various sources, from seven to ten thousand (!) varieties of cultivated apple trees have been bred. But despite their enormous diversity, in private gardens, as a rule, only a couple of popular and beloved varieties grow. Apple trees are large trees with a spreading crown, and you cannot grow many of them in one area. What if you try to grow columnar varieties of this crop? In this article I will tell you exactly about these varieties of apple trees.

Pinjur - Balkan-style eggplant caviar with sweet peppers, onions and tomatoes. Distinctive feature dishes - eggplants and peppers are first baked, then peeled and simmered for a long time in a roasting pan or in a thick-bottomed pan, adding the rest of the vegetables specified in the recipe. The caviar turns out to be very thick, with a bright, rich taste. In my opinion, this cooking method is the best known. Although it is more troublesome, the result compensates for the labor costs.

Autumn is the period on which the quality and quantity of the next year’s harvest directly depends.

If you devote enough time to caring for fruit trees, then have no doubt that in the summer you will see the result of your labors and knowledge.

Therefore, you should not be lazy and put everything off for later.

It is in the fall that it is necessary to protect the garden from diseases and pests, sufficiently fertilize, moisten and dig the soil, and also give Special attention preparation for winter.

We will talk about this in more detail.

First of all, in autumn it is necessary to take care of protecting fruit trees. It is better to start all activities when the leaves fall. But don't delay too much.

The preparation time depends on the climate of the area where the garden is planted - in the northern regions this activity can begin at the end of September, and in the southern regions - in October. Because late preparation for winter in the north may not only fail to improve the condition of the garden, but may even destroy it.

Whitewashing wood

Many people believe that whitewashing trees is a protection against harmful insects that have laid their larvae in the bark for the winter, as well as some fungal diseases. Of course this is true, but not only that. Back in 1887, it was noticed that trees whitened with lime solution tolerated frost better than their untreated neighbors on the site.

Gardeners still use this experience. What's the secret? This coating serves as a protective layer against large temperature changes in winter, when the sun gets hot during the day and the frost begins to freeze at night. Untreated trees become covered with cracks, which serve as an excellent habitat for various pathogens. But here you need to know some nuances.

For example, when whitewashing young trees, the lime in the solution can be replaced with chalk. Solution should be thick and rich, covering not only the trunk, but also the skeletal branches. Exists several options for preparing the solution.

First- the cheapest and simplest - solution homemade. For it you should take 2 kg of lime + 400 g of copper sulfate. Dissolve these components in 10 liters of water with the addition of paste for viscosity. You can also add 1 kg of clay and cow dung to this composition.

Paste cannot be used for young trees; their bark will not be able to breathe through the adhesive barrier. For seedlings, it is better to prepare a mixture of lime (3 kg), clay (1.5 kg) and mullein (1 kg), which are dissolved in water until sour cream thickens.

Second option is a store-bought mixture that also consists of clay and lime. However, this whitewash is very often washed off by spring, so it requires re-processing the entire garden. Adding carbolic acid to any solution will also protect trees from damage by rodents and hares.

Protecting your garden from insects

Winter Garden is a place for wintering of various insects, which lay their larvae in the bark, fallen leaves, and nests in the tree crown.

For example, a small nest in the form of a shield on the surface of the branches is a clutch of apple moth, which contains up to 80 eggs, small beads in the shape of a ring on a branch are the offspring of the ringed silkworm, and dry leaves glued to the branches with a web can be an excellent refuge for young caterpillars of hawthorn and lacewing.

This is just a small list of garden pests, how can we protect it?

First of all It is necessary to remove the entire area from excess debris and fallen leaves. Clean dead bark from trees with iron brushes. It is worth doing a deep (15–20 cm) digging of the soil to destroy the wintering grounds of some caterpillars.

Inspect carefully fruit trees, some areas may even require a magnifying glass. Clear the trunks of trapping belts in which a large number of moth cocoons are concentrated. Spray all plantings with a 3 or 5% urea solution. Helps protect trees from pests such as aphids, lungworts, silkworms, and leaf rollers. spraying with drugs"Bulldock", "Fury", "Agravertini".

Protects against diseases such as coccomycosis and other spots spraying with preparations containing copper: iron sulfate, Bordeaux mixture, copper oxychloride or fungicide preparations - “Kuproksat”, “Topsin”, “Horus”. Treatment with “Impact”, “Strobe” or “Skor” will help get rid of scab and fruit rot. All wounds, cracks and hollows on the tree must be treated with a 5% solution of iron sulfate and covered with cement.

Protecting your garden from rodents

Very great harm the garden, especially young seedlings, are attacked by hares and small rodents. To protect trees from them it is necessary wrap the trunk old rags or burlap with roofing felt. Many gardeners even use women's nylon tights for this purpose. They are convenient for protecting branches.

Near the base, the protection must be well buried with earth so that mice do not get through. Spruce or pine branches are perfect; they tie the trunk with them and cover the circum-trunk circle. The smell from coriander sprigs scattered on the ground near the tree also repels mice well.

Wrapping up the garden will also save the trees from winter frosts. And if you also whiten the bark (as discussed above in the article), then your garden will not be afraid of sunburn from winter rays.

You should know that if you use roofing felt as an insulating material, then there must be a layer of burlap or rags between it and the tree bark. Otherwise the tree will die.

Tree pruning

Pruning of fruit trees should begin after the leaves have dropped. Dates vary depending on the region where the garden is planted. In the southern regions, you can leave this event for October, but in the northern regions it cannot be delayed, so pruning is carried out at the end of September or, even better, postponed until March.

Otherwise, the tree will not have time to prepare for winter due to increased sap flow. When pruning late, at the wound site, the wood dries and freezes, which often leads to the death of the tree.

So, let's get down to the specifics of this procedure. First of all dry and diseased branches are removed, then those that create excessive density grow towards the trunk, at the wrong angle, and intertwine with each other.

Trees that have not been pruned for many years must be thinned out in stages over several years, starting with the largest branches and ending with small ones that are growing incorrectly. If a tree is pruned too heavily, it may no longer bear fruit or even die.

Young seedlings are not pruned in the fall. It is necessary to thin out the crown of young trees annually; this establishes their shape and correct height. For older trees, the event is carried out once every 2-3 years to improve the circulation of air and light between the branches, as well as to obtain larger and good harvest.

All wounds on the tree after branches have been removed must be treated with garden varnish and covered with drying oil or paint. All cut and cut branches should be burned, as they may contain spores. various diseases and pests.

Fertilizing garden trees

Autumn feeding plays more important role than spring or summer. Since it is in the fall that the tree’s strength is laid before the upcoming fruiting, its immunity is strengthened and resistance to frost increases. Root feeding is applied along with the main fertilizer during the autumn digging of the soil, in the area around the trunk circle, no later than October.

For young trees under 8 years of age, about 30 kg of humus will be required, and for adults - about 50 kg. In autumn, the most important elements are potassium, phosphorus, nitrogen, calcium, iron and magnesium.

But replenishment with manganese, boron, copper and cobalt is best done in reduced quantities. The ideal option would be to make sure which elements the soil is lacking. But this is not always possible or convenient, so there are basic rules that should be followed.

For example, to feed apple and pear trees it is necessary to organic fertilizer add 300g of superphosphate and 200g of potassium sulfate to the soil. These elements are better absorbed in liquid form by watering the circle around the trunk.

For cherry and plum trees, fertilizing is prepared from 3 tbsp. superphosphate and 2 tbsp. potassium sulfate dissolved in 10 liters of water. To sufficiently nourish one tree, about 4 buckets of such liquid are needed. Sandy and sandy loam soils require more fertilizing elements than clay and loamy soils, which are heavier.

This is due to the fact that from light soils useful elements food is washed out more intensively by precipitation and during irrigation. From the moment fruiting begins, the garden needs more intensive nutrition in the fall. It is better to postpone fertilizing with nitrogen until the spring, since in the fall this element increases sap flow, which adversely affects the wintering of the tree.

Watering garden trees

Autumn watering allowed only in regions with low rainfall. If the tree was watered abundantly in summer and autumn, and later was also covered with earth, this leads to heating, and then cracking of the trunk bark, in places where moisture accumulates.

We should not forget that just as dangerous overwatering, the lack of moisture in the soil before winter is also dangerous. If the tree experiences an urgent need for additional moisture, then the hardening process will be much more difficult, and the plant will not withstand frosts adequately.

Also, plentiful summer watering leads to increased growth of shoots, which, growing up to 2 m, do not have time to become woody by winter and die from frost. Sometimes, in places where there is excess moisture, it is allowed to sow annual grasses, and weed control is also stopped, which leads to normalization of soil moisture. If the humidity of the garden planting region is normal, then the last watering must be done no later than October.

Hilling the base of trees with earth is allowed only in frost-prone areas and areas with little snow, since in combination with watering this action can damage the tree more than protect it.

Besides, last water-recharging autumn watering helps strengthen the root system, eliminates the possibility of sunburn bark of the trunk and branches, and also ensures a more successful growing season, replacing the first spring watering. Thanks to him root system The tree becomes more powerful because in winter the tree extracts moisture from a depth of 0.5–2 m from the soil surface.

We were not mistaken; in winter, trees also need moisture. When drawing up a schedule autumn watering you should also take into account the depth groundwater Location on. Because when water-recharging irrigation is necessary to saturate the soil to a depth greater than the depth of the root system of the tree.

However, unacceptable contact of groundwater and irrigation water. The average norm for moisture-charging irrigation is about 10–16 buckets of water per 1 sq.m. soil.

If your garden has soil with shallow pebble deposits, as well as clay layers, then the last abundant watering is required only in years of particularly dry autumn, and usually amounts to no more than four buckets per 1 sq.m.

Digging up wood

Tilling the soil in the fall is extremely important, and it cannot be replaced by spring, as inexperienced summer residents often think. As a result of loosening, the soil is enriched with oxygen, the larvae and eggs of various pests that have settled for the winter die, and the roots and seeds of weeds decompose.

It is not recommended to break large lumps of earth when digging, otherwise this will lead to freezing and weathering of the soil in the area. Also, you should not do late digging of an area with snow. This will lead to slower warming up in the spring.

All loosening and digging activities must be completed no later than the end of October. It should be remembered that young annual seedlings should not be dug to great depths, so as not to damage the roots.

And with systematic autumn loosening, there is evidence that in an apple tree the bulk of the roots are located on the seed rootstock within a radius of 20–60 cm, in a plum tree on a clonal rootstock, and in a cherry tree – on a horizon of 20–40 cm. Digging around the sea buckthorn trunk is carried out by carefully loosening it with a rake to a depth of about 7 cm, while trying not to touch the roots.

If you pick up a shovel, then it must be positioned with its edge towards the trunk of the fruit tree. If the garden has not been systematically loosened, then the root system is pulled to the surface, which creates a risk of damage and freezing in winter.

This can lead to the fact that the tree will find itself without a significant mechanism for obtaining nutrition and moisture, and the open wound surfaces of the roots will become an area of ​​penetration for all kinds of infections and diseases. You should also consider the composition of the soil in your garden. Light, loose, cultivated soil only needs loosening, while heavy, clayey soil requires deep digging.

fallen leaves

Exists 2 options for dealing with fallen leaves in the garden. Some summer residents believe that there is no need to do anything with it, because wildlife No one removes the leaves; they rot naturally and serve as an excellent fertilizer in the future.

Others believe that fallen leaves are a huge risk of infection with various diseases and pests, since this is where insect larvae and eggs overwinter and disease spores can remain, so all of it must be removed and burned. Both are right.

Therefore, before deciding what to do with fallen leaves, you need to pay attention to whether your area has been infected with any diseases or pests. Even if this is the case, by collecting the foliage in bags, you will prevent it from compacting, and all pathogenic microbes will die from frost. In the spring, this foliage should be piled up to rot.

This process can be accelerated by periodic shoveling and watering with microorganisms that contribute to the formation of humus. If your trees are absolutely healthy, then the collected foliage can serve as an excellent shelter from the cold for the root system of the trees, and then as an excellent fertilizing for the soil. In the presence of large quantity pests and diseases, it is better not to use fallen leaves, but to collect them in a heap and burn them.

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The time after harvest in late August - early September is important for the gardener. During this period, garden trees and flowers are prepared for wintering, and plantings are fertilized with nutrients. If you do not take certain actions before the onset of the first cold weather, you may be left without a good harvest. To do this, you need to know how to properly care for your garden in the fall.

Autumn work on the site

In order for the growth on the trees to increase adequately and the soil for planting to be fertile, several things need to be done. The activities are carried out after the harvest, when the last leaves have fallen. Now the plant is beginning to prepare to retire.

Thus, gardening during the fall months is busy and important. Fruitful work has a beneficial effect on the life of trees and plants. Timely implementation of measures allows you to get a larger harvest than in the previous year.

September is a very important month for any gardener. He is rich in urgent tasks for cleaning gardens, vegetable plots and fields. The main occupation is considered

  • Picking fruits, namely pears and apples. Choosing the right time is the key long storage fruits To determine the readiness of apples, you need to conduct a small experiment. Pick a ripe apple. Cut it in half with a knife if the seeds are white or slightly Brown, then the fruit is left on the branch. The recommended harvest time is the middle of the first month of autumn. If you delay harvesting, the delay will also have a negative impact on the fruits, just like early harvesting. The fruits will become overripe and long-term storage no need to think.
  • Autumn time in the garden is the time to plant fruit crops, such as apricots, you can plant all kinds. Cuttings from currants and grapes take root well before winter. Rooted young plants will be ready for planting in the spring months.
  • All bushes and trees must be pruned. Dry, broken and diseased vines are removed. After this, it is imperative to spray the crops against pests and diseases.
  • Do not delay the last harvest of vegetable crops. They will no longer be able to ripen, but green tomatoes can still be canned or pickled. Also, do not leave potato plantings. The first frost will have a negative impact on the remaining tubers.
  • September is the perfect time to prepare planting material for growing winter crops and planting seeds in polycarbonate greenhouses or greenhouses. You can also plant garlic cloves now, then they will give a good growth in early spring.
  • Those who grow flowers in September are very busy. They collect seeds, as well as plant bulbs, etc.

October is marked by the fact that at this time it is recommended:

  • Replant shrubs and trees to a new place of residence. But before starting work, wait until the plant has completely shed all its foliage.
  • You should also take care of fruits that are late in harvest. They are checked, like September fruits, so that they do not have time to overripe. Many varieties are laid to ripen.
  • The next stage is fertilizing, simultaneously with loosening and cultivating the soil.
  • Don’t forget about planting green manure. Best time planting - early October for the southern regions. For the central regions of Russia and the northern districts, spring crops no longer need to be planted; they will not have time to grow. Now is the time to plant rye and winter wheat. Until it comes subzero temperature, these crops will have time to sprout well, which means they have every chance of overwintering well. If green manure was planted in more early dates, then October is the time when you can dig them up. Then they will have time to rot well over the winter and saturate the soil with organic matter.
  • In areas with increased acidity, it is necessary to reduce this indicator, because not all plants can grow and develop fruitfully in such conditions. For these purposes, liming is carried out on the breasts by scattering lime or chalk.
  • Flower growers continue to plant bulbs. At the first drop in air degrees, hyacinth tubers should be planted in the ground.
  • After the first frosts appear, the tubers are carefully uprooted, and with. They are stored in a cool place. After negative temperatures are established, hyacinths and lilies are covered with peat, moss, sawdust or pine spruce branches.

The last month of autumn requires the last efforts before wintering. The southern regions have a mild climate, so most plants are not covered. But this does not apply to all grape varieties; some should be insulated. The vine is removed from the trellises or supports and laid out on wooden pallets or into dug trenches in the soil. After this, wrap the vine with film or earth.

If trees do not need insulation, they should be whitewashed with lime. It is necessary not only for protection from rodents, but also from bright spring sun rays. They can cause burns and cracks in the bark. Whitewashing also plays the role of a kind of protection from sun exposure. On warm winter days, the rays tend to warm up the bark, and in the evening the temperature drops, causing the tree shell to freeze. What can cause the death of seedlings?

In colder regions, fruit trees need to be insulated with spruce branches or peat, and the top of the trunk should be wrapped in burlap or other air-permeable material.

It is recommended to wrap the netting around the top in a circle. It will not allow rodents to feast on the bark in winter cold. You cannot use film or other non-woven material for wrapping. It does not allow air to circulate, which provokes damping off of the bark. As a result, various fungal diseases develop. In the garden during this period you can plant any vegetable crops. Low temperature will not allow the seedlings to sprout, but they will go through the natural process of stratification. This will allow the sprouts to gain immunity and get sick less in the future.

Work with flowers is coming to an end. Perennials cut to the base for the winter. Roses are cut to such a level that they can be covered. Bulbous plants are covered with spruce branches, moss or sawdust.

All work is completed completely. Last days allocated for cleaning up all the work and completely covering all the trees for the winter. Thus, the autumn months are no less busy for farmers than spring or summer. The main thing is to prepare the garden and vegetable garden for the coming winter and the future fruit-bearing period. If you do not follow the basic procedures, you may not experience rich fruiting.

More information can be found in the video:

With the onset of warm days, gardeners begin to spring work. After all, not only trees wake up from the sun’s rays, but also pests that have overwintered on them. To preserve the plantings and prepare the garden for the fruiting season, a number of measures should be carried out, including cleaning the trees and directly treating them with special preparations.

Preparing trees for spraying

First of all, all trees must be carefully inspected and branches that have dried out or frozen out must be cut out. At the same time, you can form or adjust the crowns. You can start working around mid-March.

Leaves that have fallen in the fall and have not rotted over the winter should be raked and burned along with the cut branches, since they may contain pest larvae.

In early spring, the air temperature is not yet stable - the sun is hot during the day, and frosts are possible at night. To protect the bark of trees from burns, the trunks should be whitened with the addition of PVA glue.

Before whitewashing, the trunk must be cleared of dead bark and lichens.

Last preparatory stage there will be digging around the trunk circles. It is advisable to do this a couple of days before spraying the trees.

As for when to treat garden trees in the spring, you can start the first spraying as soon as the air temperature warms up to 5 degrees Celsius.

Stages of spring tree processing

Processing garden trees must be done 4 times during the spring season:

  1. Before the buds open. Spraying of plantings in order to destroy the remaining larvae that have awakened, as well as pathogens of diseases such as scab, cytosporosis, moniliosis, coccomycosis, etc. Preparations: iron and copper sulfate, urea, Fundazol.
  2. Before flowering (along the green cone). It is carried out to destroy the codling moth and to prevent scab and spotting. Preparations: a mixture of vitriol and slaked lime, a solution of diesel fuel, Keltan, Fury, Kinmiks.
  3. During flowering. Repeated treatment of trees against clasteosporiasis, moniliosis and coccomycosis. Spraying to combat ticks and weevils. Preparations: copper sulfate, Bordeaux mixture, anabasine, DDT, karbofos.
  4. After flowering. Treatment against fungal diseases. Destruction of pests. Drugs: Fury, Skvor, Fundazol, Marshall, Barrier.

The break between each subsequent spraying should be at least two weeks.

Types of spring spraying depending on time - video