Is it necessary to caulk a house made of timber? Why does a house made of wooden beams need caulking? Services of professional caulkers

Have you been told that it is not necessary to caulk a house made of timber, they say, everything fits perfectly there anyway? You can safely send such “woe” specialists home and invite real professionals in construction wooden houses. Like any other, the technology of building houses from timber has its own stages and design features, which invariably includes caulking of a timber house, even if you are going to do the external and internal finishing with insulation in the future. You should not try to save time and money so as not to overpay in the future. If you don’t want there to be constant drafts in your house, curtains to flutter even in calm weather, and over time wet and rotten places in the wood to appear, it is better to complete all the caulking work at home on time.

Is it necessary to caulk a log house and why?

In some sources you can find information that a log house does not need to be caulked. And the builders who are building your house can say the same thing. They explain this by the fact that, unlike lumber in log houses shrinkage and displacement of wood occurs stronger and more intensely, cracks and leaks appear, so it is necessary to caulk the structure. But houses built from profiled timber practically do not shrink, since the wood is pre-treated. Let's figure out how it actually happens when building a house from timber with your own hands.

Natural moisture timber- a relatively cheap building material, for which it is popular in the construction of economy-class houses with subsequent insulation and finishing with siding. Even if you invite the best architect, he will not be able to build a house from such timber without gaps between the crowns and gaps. Moreover, when the timber begins to dry out, and this is inevitable, additional cracks will appear, wider ones, the timber will decrease in size, and it will begin to “twist”. As a result, cracks will appear, due to which the wooden wall will lose its thermal insulation abilities. To avoid such a sad end, the walls must be caulked at least 3 times and thoroughly insulated.

It was invented precisely in order to reduce costs and construction time wooden house. It undergoes special processing in production, due to which it practically does not dry out during operation, and its tongue-and-groove connections are perfectly aligned to the nearest millimeter. The beams fit together as closely as possible, and 5 mm insulation is placed between the crowns, which is located between the interlocking parts. Despite the seller’s assurances, the house made of profiled timber still shrinks, as the timber finally falls into place under the weight of the structure. In addition, the properties of wood strongly depend on the region of growth, climatic conditions and storage conditions. No one can guarantee that absolutely all the timber you purchased is of the same high quality. As a result of building movements, the timber may shift slightly and the insulation may become wrinkled. Even if no gaps appear after shrinkage, and this option is possible, still those gaps that are located in the inter-crown space outside and inside the house accumulate moisture, and since the place itself is very secluded and vulnerable, mold and rot can form in it.

Caulking a timber house is necessary in order to insulate wooden walls, completely filling them with natural insulation and sealing the gaps and cracks between the beams and in corner joints. This guarantees tightness, no heat leaks through the walls, drafts and icing of the timber outside the building, which occurs when warm steam escapes through the cracks and settles as wet frost on the surface.

How to caulk a timber house

To summarize, the material that can be used to caulk a house must meet the following requirements:

Have low thermal conductivity.
Be immune to temperature and humidity fluctuations, and easily withstand wind.
So that insects and pathogenic fungi (mold) do not grow in it.
Be an absolutely environmentally friendly material, otherwise the whole point of building a wooden house is lost.
Be relatively durable (not lose properties for at least 20 years).
Be breathable.
Be hygroscopic, i.e. when you need to absorb moisture, when you need to give it away.
And the most important thing is to be similar in its properties to wood.

Due to the fact that our ancestors caulked their houses hundreds of generations deep on their own, materials that have been tested and tested by thousands of years of successful practice have survived to this day. They can be called traditional materials.

Moss- most best material even today for caulking wooden buildings. This is sphagnum moss - a bog plant that can be red, white or brown. Subsequently, peat is formed from it. Neither of modern materials cannot compare with moss, it is so durable and environmentally friendly. You can travel through old abandoned villages, look at the houses: the logs have almost rotted, and the moss is still in excellent condition. Moss is simply irreplaceable as an interventional sealant: it has antiseptic, antibacterial and healing properties. Sandwiched between wood, it suppresses the development of putrefactive bacteria and mold fungi, due to which the wood lasts longer. Moss easily allows air to pass through itself, which, passing through it, is saturated with healing vapors, so the atmosphere inside the house becomes healing. Moss is hygroscopic, which means it smoothes out changes in humidity. In general, moss has no drawbacks, except for one thing - it is not so easy for them to caulk, otherwise no one would invent or look for anything new.

Tow made of flax fibers It is used as a sealant and sealant everywhere, but for caulking - mainly in regions where flax grows and where there are no swamps where moss could be stocked. No one produces tow specifically; it is waste from the production of ropes, cords and linen, or tweezing and stripping after cleaning flax fibers. Tow has some antiseptic and bactericidal properties, but to a lesser extent than moss. Therefore, in some cases, tow is treated with resins to increase resistance to high humidity. These resins can be natural, i.e. tree resins, then this material can still be called environmentally friendly, but petroleum products are also used for impregnation, then tow no longer has anything in common with natural materials. Tow contains a large number of fires, which will shake out during the first years of operation of the house, so caulking will need to be repeated several times.

It is very similar to tow, only its fibers are coarser, so they are sometimes confused. Hemp is not afraid of temperature changes and high humidity, so it can be used even in very humid regions. Such properties are due high content lignin polymer, which is also found in any wood to hold cellulose fibers together. Hemp does not lose its properties even after getting wet, therefore it is resistant to rotting.

Among the modern materials for caulking, the following can be distinguished:

A foreign product, it is imported to us from China, India, Egypt and other countries with a tropical climate or heavy rainfall. It is produced from the shoots of the jute plant of the Malvaceae family. Jute fiber is very durable, not affected by mold, putrefactive bacteria, not interesting to insects and birds, hygroscopic, i.e. easily accumulates and releases moisture, allows air to pass through. Jute contains about the same amount of lignin as wood, so their properties are similar and together they are a perfect pair.

Jute is produced both in fibers and in strips of different widths. Tape jute insulation very convenient to use for laying between the crowns of a timber house. In addition, pure jute compacts evenly. These advantages more than cover the price of this material.

In addition to materials made from fibers, felt insulation materials (inter-crown felt) are also used for caulking:

Jute interventional insulation consists of 90% jute and 10% flax. But it is better to monitor this ratio, since there is jute felt consisting of 70% jute and 30% flax, which significantly worsens its properties.

Linen felt also called Eurolen or flax wool. It is a needle-punched material made from highly purified flax.

Flax-jute felt consists of jute and flax in a 1:1 ratio.

Fully jute modern insulation materials are considered the best, since they interact perfectly with wood and shrink evenly, while other materials with the addition of flax worsen the properties of the insulation. The more flax, the worse the properties.

When to caulk a log house

Work on caulking a house is carried out in several stages, this is due to the fact that the timber dries out gradually, the house sinks under its own weight. The largest shrinkage occurs in the first year and a half after construction, and every year it is less and less. Experts say that after 5 - 6 years, shrinkage practically stops.

First time a log house is caulked immediately after construction. During the construction process, insulation is laid between the crowns, and after the entire house is erected, the gaps between the beams are filled with caulking material, but not too tightly.

Second caulk is carried out a year and a half after the completion of construction of the house. The house will already have settled, so it is necessary to caulk tightly, leaving no gaps or hanging material.

Third time Caulking work will have to be done again after 5 - 6 years, carefully filling all newly formed gaps and cracks and adding material where it accidentally spilled out or was pulled out by birds.

If it is planned to cover the outside of a timber house with siding, then the third caulking is not performed, but the first two must be completed. There is no need to rush and save on something for which you will later have to pay much more.

Do-it-yourself caulking of a timber house

Caulking is a very responsible and labor-intensive process, despite some monotony of the operations performed. Not many construction crews agree to do caulking work; they simply don’t know how to do it and are afraid of ruining it, which is why they recommend not caulking at all. We have already discussed why you should not listen to them.

But there are teams and entire organizations that deal with caulking professionally. The price for caulking a timber house depends on the stage of work and amounts to a certain amount per 1 linear meter of each crown. The average cost of caulking is 50 - 60 rubles. for 1 m.p. And the caulk corner connections can reach 200 rubles. for 1 m.p. Caulking will be carried out at a separate rate decorative rope(with a rope) that decorates appearance caulked walls and prevents birds from pulling out the material. By the way, it is customary to pay for the material separately. If you are offered to perform caulk work for 25 rubles. m.p., you should not agree, since the work will be done extremely poorly.

If you want to do all the work yourself, then stock up on patience, material, tools and subsequent information.

How to caulk a timber house with jute

Jute, as a material for insulating a log house, is gaining wild popularity. It is often used in the construction of the house itself.

Before caulking a timber house, you must first properly lay and secure the timber. Insulation is always laid in the inter-crown space with a layer of at least 5 mm. Even if the beam is profiled, jute must be laid between the tenon and groove. But its width depends on the shape of the tongue-and-groove system. The simplest option is when bottom beam has a convex crescent-shaped surface, and the top one has the same recess (somewhat reminiscent of a joint of logs), in this case the space between the crowns is completely filled with insulation, and its edges remain hanging 4 - 5 cm on each side. A more complex version of profiled timber, when it is impossible to lay the insulation with a continuous carpet, then it is laid only in the middle, and the external and internal cracks are then caulked separately.

If the house is made of timber with natural humidity, then the thickness of the inter-crown insulation should be 10 - 15 mm.

Important! Caulking must be done from top to bottom. In this case, first one crown is caulked completely outside, then inside, and only then they move on to the second crown. It is better if the work is carried out by 4 people simultaneously on 4 walls. This is necessary to ensure that the house does not warp. After all, after caulking is completed, it will rise by several centimeters, from 5 to 15 cm.

Let's consider the option when the insulation hangs 4 - 5 cm between the beams. The caulking technology is very well shown in the video example. Using a caulking tool (tool), the jute is tucked underneath and lightly pushed into the gap. Then it is gently, but more forcefully pushed in the upper part, and finally - in the middle. To push the material inside the crack, use a rubber or wooden hammer (mallet), which is gently hit on the caulk.

If, after the work has been completed, loose cracks are still observed, then additional caulking is performed.

Let's consider the option when the gaps between the crowns are not filled (the insulation is located somewhere in the middle of the beam). The work will be exactly the same as with additional caulking.

Usually the gaps between the beams are quite narrow, so this caulking method is used: a rope as thick as the gap is twisted from jute fiber and hammered into the gap with a mallet.

There is another way - “stretching”. Separately taken fibers of jute are laid in fibers across the beam and pushed inward with a spatula or caulk until the gap is completely filled. We leave the remaining ends of the material hanging, it should be about 5 - 6 cm. Next, take a little more jute, roll it into a ball (roller), which is wrapped in these hanging ends and pushed into the gap.

Important! How can you check whether it’s enough to push the insulation in or if you still need to add a little more? If it fits into the gap between the crowns kitchen knife by 15 mm or less, then the caulking was completed successfully. If the knife goes further, then material should be added.

When large cracks are formed, use the “set” caulking method. Long strands of jute are twisted and rolled into a ball. Loops are then made from the ball and pushed into the cracks until they are filled.

After all caulking work is completed, the house is loaded and, if possible, used for a whole year. In winter, it will be possible to check for the presence of cracks using the so-called “hares”. These are pockets of frost on outside walls. If you find them, mark the place, this means that there is a leak of warm air from the house. A year to a year and a half after the first caulking, a second caulking is carried out, the house is carefully inspected, insulation is added to those places where it has spilled out or frayed, where the cracks have widened, where the timber has warped, and also in places where there are “hares”.

Only after repeated caulking can you begin external and interior decoration Houses. Even if it assumes 100 mm mineral wool and a ventilated façade.

You can caulk a timber house with other materials. But there are some exceptions. For example, only a house made of non-profiled timber can be caulked with moss, since this material is laid and completely fills the inter-crown space, which is absolutely impossible if the timber has a tongue-and-groove system. The work itself on caulking a house is complex and painstaking, although from the outside it seems painfully simple. If you are not confident in your abilities, invite a specialist.

Caulking a timber house: video - example

When building a wooden house, it is imperative to resolve the issue of insulation. Caulking a house made of timber, like a building made of logs, is necessary in order to prevent the appearance of drafts and blowing into corners. For this you can use any natural materials, which will improve the thermal protection of the house, will not reduce its environmental friendliness.

When and how to caulk a house made of profiled timber

The question is often asked: is it necessary to caulk a house made of timber if dried profiled material was used during construction? Such timber actually gives minimal shrinkage, so the likelihood of wall deformation is much lower, and much less insulation will be required.

However, even the highest quality profile is not able to ensure a perfect fit of the crowns to each other, so you will still have to take care of the insulation of a log house. The caulking of a building made of profiled timber has several important features:

It is not carried out immediately, but only six months to a year after completion of construction. During this time, the shrinkage process will finally be completed, and it will be possible to completely seal even the smallest cracks that appear.

You can decide when to caulk a timber house by reading reviews from owners of similar houses. Typically, re-caulking is carried out once a year.

When constructing walls made of profiled timber, they immediately lay between the crowns insulation material jute tape made from flax fiber. It will be both an insulation and a sealant; it is a good replacement for simple caulk. Inter-crown insulation extends the service life of the material, so it should not be neglected.
Caulking of the building is carried out both from the outside and from the inside, usually the insulation is placed in the gap no deeper than 10-15 mm.

Caulking a wall made of profiled timber is much easier than carrying out similar work for a log, and much less material is required. This caulk improves thermal insulation qualities and becomes an additional protection against drafts. Today, both domestic and foreign manufacturers offer jute tape as inter-crown insulation. Eco-friendly materials continue to gain popularity in Europe.

What material to choose for caulking

There is no consensus on the forums about how to caulk a log house. In any case, synthetic materials that close the pores of wood and prevent natural air exchange are not suitable for this.

In order to properly caulk a timber building, it is better to take care of purchasing natural insulation materials, of which there are quite a lot on offer today. Common solutions:

Sphagnum moss has been used as insulation for caulking for many centuries. Red swamp moss “breathes”, allowing moisture to pass through, so this type of insulation is especially good for a bathhouse made of timber.

It is elastic and can absorb excess moisture, easily tolerates drying and any temperature. We can say that this is the most environmentally friendly option, although not everyone likes it: birds quickly take it away, and caulking next year will have to be done again.

More modern solution- jute fiber, to which flax is often added today. This is a durable material that allows water vapor to pass through well.

Jute fiber is not touched by birds and rodents, so it will serve for a long time. If flax is used, it will have to be changed soon, since it is threatened not only by rodents, but also by insects.

When deciding how to caulk a house made of timber, you can use another new solution. In Europe, sealing material is now used, which is made from sheep wool. It has even lower thermal conductivity than wood, and is also highly elastic.

When laying profiled timber, the intercrown wool insulation shrinks, and when the wood finally dries out and cracks appear, it straightens and completely occupies the free space. At the same time, organic matter is biodegradable and does not harm the environment.

To caulk a house made of timber, you can also use tow, jute felt and other organic materials. They vary in cost and other parameters, but they all help to reliably protect the house from the cold.

How to properly caulk a timber building

Having decided on what to caulk a log house and having purchased jute material, you can begin caulking. For this purpose it is used special tool, resembling a small wooden spatula and mallet.

During construction, strips of insulating material are laid with an outlet so that a few centimeters remain. The insulation releases are collected into a roller and carefully driven into the seam with caulk.

During construction log house The seams are quite large, so the sealant is rolled up in several layers. IN timber house This is usually not necessary, it is important not to overdo it to prevent the crowns from lifting. In the future, it is advisable to check the condition of the caulk every six months in order to eliminate any defects in a timely manner.

Jute sealant contains natural resins in its composition, so it can be laid immediately, without additional processing. But wool seals need additional protection from rotting, otherwise they may be very short-lived.

To protect against biological threats, they are impregnated with formalin solution. It is non-toxic, so the use of such material does not reduce the safety of the home.

For high-quality insulation for a log house, choose high-quality inter-crown jute tape of uniform composition, without visible impurities in the fiber structure.

Having decided the question of how to caulk a log house, it is important to choose the right insulation material. If there are foreign inclusions in the fiber, most often this indicates that it is made from recycled materials. In this case, you cannot count on its reliability and durability, and the insulation will very soon have to be repeated.

You can sometimes hear statements that caulking profile timber is not necessary. But this is the wrong approach to construction. As with other construction technologies, the construction of timber houses is carried out in compliance with certain features. Each stage of work has its own nuances.

The legend that timber houses they do not need caulking, due to the fact that the shrinkage of such structures is slow and less noticeable in comparison with others wooden materials. But even in houses made of profiled timber, over time, loose areas and cracks appear, so caulking of such houses is a mandatory procedure.

A house built from profiled timber exhibits slight shrinkage. This is due to the pre-treatment that the wood undergoes.

Timber is considered a relatively inexpensive building material for building walls. He has natural humidity and is often used for economy-class houses, which require additional insulation and finishing using siding.

No one has yet managed to build a house from timber, completely devoid of gaps and cracks between the crowns. When the natural drying of the timber folded into a log house begins, many additional gaps will appear in the elements; they change size and become deformed. Due to the resulting cracks, the walls lose their ability to conserve heat. To avoid this, it is necessary to caulk about 3 times, and carefully insulate the walls.

Profiled timber was developed in order to reduce financial costs and time costs for the construction of wooden houses. In production, such building materials undergo special processing, after which it will not dry out during operation. The connection elements (tongue and groove) are adjusted down to the millimeter. Thanks to this, the fit of one beam to another will be very tight. When laying the walls, insulation material is laid between the crowns.

When the timber begins to shrink under the overall weight of the building, you need to wait a while and only then carry out caulking. The rate of shrinkage will depend on the type of wood, climate, preservation conditions and the region where the trees grew. There is no guarantee that all material for a log house will be of the same quality. Due to changes in the structure, slight displacement of elements and deformation of the insulation are possible.

Even in the absence of cracks, moisture accumulates in the inter-crown spaces outside and inside the house. Since the area is inconspicuous, rot can form there and spread quite widely before it is discovered.

Caulking a house made of profiled timber is necessary, first of all, for the purpose of insulation wooden walls. The gaps in those places where the beams are connected into a corner, as well as between the elements, are completely filled with insulation. This ensures tightness, heat from the house does not escape through the walls, and ice does not form on the timber outside the building. Ice patches can form when warm steam escapes through cracks in your home and settles on the wood surface.

What material is suitable for caulking?

Before figuring out how to caulk a house, decide on the choice of sealant. It must meet the following requirements:

low thermal conductivity;
poor sensitivity to fluctuations in temperature and humidity;
lack of favorable conditions for the appearance of fungi and insects;
the material must be environmentally safe;
performance properties must remain unchanged for as long as possible;
breathability and hygroscopicity are required;
the characteristics of the sealing material should be similar to wood.

Nowadays, houses are used for caulking as traditional materials, who came to us from time immemorial, and modern developments. The best option in your case should be determined based on the characteristics of the building and the climatic conditions of the area where it is located. The following options for caulking log houses are used:

Moss. One of the best materials for insulation wooden log houses considered to be sphagnum moss. It grows in swamps and can be white, brown or red. Gradually, such a plant degenerates into peat. Modern materials cannot compare with moss in many performance characteristics: it is environmentally friendly and durable, as can be seen in any Russian village when looking at old buildings. Often when the logs are rotten, the moss is still in working condition. Properly harvested moss is ideal as inter-crown insulation; it has antibacterial, antiseptic, and medicinal properties. It does not create favorable conditions for the development of fungi and bacteria, which explains its durability. It has a good ability to allow air to pass through and smoothes out changes in humidity. But moss also has significant drawback— working with him is not as easy as it might seem.
Linen tow. The timber can be compacted with tow made from flax fiber. It represents waste from the manufacture of fabrics, ropes, ropes, and so on. It also has antiseptic properties, but compared to moss it is much less. Tow can be treated with resin - this makes it resistant to moisture. Natural resins are used. Processing with petroleum products is possible, but in this case the resulting material cannot be considered environmentally friendly. Tow also contains a lot of fire. It is shaken out during the first years of operation of the building. Caulking will need to be repeated as material is lost from the fire.
Hemp. Hemp hemp is very similar to tow, but its fibers are coarser. The material is not afraid of humidity and temperature changes, suitable for use in damp areas. It is resistant to rotting. Even after getting wet, hemp will not lose its performance characteristics.
Jute is one of the most popular modern materials. This product is produced abroad from shoots of plants of the mallow family and imported to us. Jute fibers are extremely durable, resistant to mold and rot, the material is hygroscopic and has good air permeability. Release form: fibers or tapes of different widths. This seal is convenient for laying between the crowns of timber.

Inter-crown felt seals:

jute inter-crown insulation (10% flax, 90% jute);
linen felt;
flax jute felt.

When choosing, you should keep in mind that all materials with the addition of flax do not have the best effect on the properties of the insulation.

Caulking of profile beams

Before caulking a house, you should understand that the timber dries out gradually. Therefore, the work will need to be carried out in several stages. The shrinkage of the structure completely stops after about 5-6 years.

For the first time, caulking is performed immediately after the construction of the building. The sealant is placed between the crowns of the beams, the cracks in the constructed walls are also filled with sealing material. They caulk the second time after one and a half to two years. In the third - in about five to six years. All cracks and gaps formed by shrinkage are plugged as tightly as possible, without leaving the material hanging down.

The first two caulks must be completed. If you plan to install siding, a third caulk is not required.

How to do caulk yourself

It is not so easy to caulk a house well. This is quite a time-consuming task. You can consider the process using jute as an example.

Before carrying out work, timber is laid and secured. Insulation is installed in the inter-crown space. The layer should be no thinner than 5 mm. The width depends on the type of tongue-and-groove system. In some cases, it is not possible to lay a strip of material as a continuous carpet, then it is placed in the middle, and the cracks inside and outside are caulked separately.
Caulking must be done from top to bottom. First they work with the outer part of one crown, then with the inside, and then they take on the next one. It is more convenient to perform the operation not alone, but with assistants.
You can consider an example when the sealing tape hangs a few centimeters between the beams. The jute is folded down and pushed into the gap. Then they push through at the top and in the middle. To make the task easier, use wooden mallet, which is tapped on the material.
For narrow cracks, you can use an option where a piece of jute is twisted into a rope of suitable thickness, and it is hammered inside the crack using a mallet.
For large cracks, use a method called set. They twist the jute into long strands, wind it into a ball, make loops from it and seal the cracks with them until they are completely filled.
In winter, after caulking, the log house is checked for cracks and pockets of frost. This is done by looking at the outer walls. A lot of warm air escapes from the house through these areas.

It is necessary to start finishing the house inside or outside after caulking has been done 2 times.

How to caulk a house made of timber? A question that faces every owner of a wooden house. It has a very relevant basis, since the caulking process ensures the insulation of the house, and therefore the maintenance optimal microclimate indoors. This characteristic is extremely important when it comes to comfortable living conditions.

Exists great amount skeptics who claim that this process not only is not beneficial, but also harms the design. Their claims are based on the fact that such houses undergo special treatment, which eliminates the possibility of shrinkage. And the formation of any cracks is simply impossible.

In practice, everything is completely different. Any tree species After time it can be dried. This process modifies the structure of the material and its shape. Deformation and drying occur, which ensures the formation of gaps. It is when these problems become noticeable that it is necessary to caulk the house made of timber. If this is not done, then according to all the laws of physics warm air from the room will leak out, being replaced by cold. Timely insulation work will save any home from such a problem.

Devices for work

The question of how to caulk correctly first of all involves the right choice of material for the job. The main requirement placed on it is that the material must be similar to the structure of wood. In addition, do not forget about the issue of ecology. There are a number of other requirements to consider:

This method of insulating houses has come from ancient times. Previously people To achieve this goal, various substances such as flax tow or moss were used. In light of development modern technologies, which also affected this area, a material called jute was developed. However the best option is bog moss.

Swamp moss significantly extends the life of the building.

This is due to the fact that it has specific qualities. Its unique structure acts not only as insulation, but also as an antiseptic that fights various fungi, mold, and rot.

Linen tow also has its place in this type of work. However, she does not have such high performance like moss. She happens to be industrial waste, which through processing acquires new life. However, its qualities leave much to be desired.

As for jute, it is imported goods, which appeared on the market quite recently. He's pretty tall qualitative indicators, but still lower than that of moss. But its advantages are that it is much easier to purchase, and the operating process is much easier.

Features of the work

The caulking process is not as simple as it might seem at first glance. House from wooden beam- Not simple design, the components of which fit perfectly together. And in order not to disturb the joint features, it is recommended to use a material whose width does not exceed 5 mm. If the house is built from a homemade log house, then this figure can soar to great heights, reaching 10 cm.

Most often, the timber has the same shape. Top part has a groove into which a groove fits, and the bottom one is equipped with the same groove. Along the edges there are elevations at the top and, accordingly, at the bottom of the border. To provide high-quality thermal insulation, it is important to ensure that the insulating material hangs about 4 cm on each side.

The caulking process is always carried out the same way. Work starts at the top and gradually works down to the base of the house. To carry out this line of work, it is strongly recommended to acquire a couple of assistants, since it is extremely difficult, sometimes even unrealistic, to carry out caulking on your own. To carry out the work you will definitely need the following set of tools: caulk, kitchen knife, spatula.

It is worth remembering that the thickness of the material that will serve as insulation directly depends on the gaps that have formed in the walls. You should not take material that is too thick that it will be impossible to stuff under any circumstances. However, if the material is too thin, it will not have any significant effect. It is worth paying careful attention to the width of the gap in order to avoid mistakes at this stage. The work is carried out measuredly and slowly, checking each finished joint.

Conclusion on the topic

The caulking process is quite complex and painstaking. However, with the proper skill and certain knowledge, you can do the work yourself. It is much easier to do this if you ask for help. Three people can complete this task in a matter of days.

By completing the entire scope of work on time, you can avoid unpleasant factors such as drafts, condensation, etc. It is important to remember that by insulating a house, the owner not only saves on heating, but also takes care of the health of others.

Longitudinal cracks in wood

What you should know in advance when choosing a wooden house:

Despite all the natural advantages, wood retains natural disadvantages - hygroscopicity, susceptibility to decomposition, oxidation of the outer layer, torsion, drying out, shrinkage, etc.
For all the cases listed above, there are modern “antidotes”.
The log house requires constant maintenance during operation. Miscellaneous works are held at different intervals (1/3/5/10 seasons).
A house made of logs or timber will retain enough heat only in mild winter(up to -15 at normal humidity). For living in colder periods, insulation or increased heating will be required.
The tree is afraid of wind, moisture and sun. That's why perfect place for a wooden house - natural environment (wooded area).
The tree has the most high degree fire danger of all building materials(for walls).

So, all the nuances have been taken into account, the house has been built or purchased and we are ready to deal with all the problems, finishing the appearance and operational properties to perfection.

Due to the fibrous structure, a log or beam has defects that spread longitudinally. A transverse crack or dent occurs extremely rarely in the event of overload or rotting of the material. In such cases, the log is not subject to repair, but to complete or partial replacement.

Longitudinal cracks, based on their location in the structure (direction), are divided into:

Direct. Approximately coincides with the axis of the log (timber).
Spiral (uneven). Does not match the axis.
Segmental. Uneven cracks with fiber transition.

In all cases, one selected method is used. As a rule, this is insulation and subsequent sealing of the sinus. This combined method is the simplest and most accessible today. It is suitable for cracks with an opening width of 5 mm. Smaller defects are sealed with a special sealant. The described method is perfect for a block house.

Question. Why not seal all the cracks with just sealant?

Answer. This will be very expensive due to the high consumption of sealant. At the same time, his thermal insulation properties an order of magnitude lower than insulation.

What you will need:

Thermal insulating filler. This could be a special thermal harness or just a strip of foam rubber.
Sealant, professional gun.
Metal knives and scrapers.
Hand sprayer with water.
Pieces of foam rubber, rags.

Attention! Before starting work, make sure that the wall material is dry (normal humidity). Treat the internal cavities with an antiseptic.

Operating procedure:

1. Clean the edges of the crack from sawdust, loose wood, and wood chips.

2. Fill the cavity with a thermal tourniquet (foam rubber). On the outside, ½–¼ of the crack remains for sealant to be applied.

Attention! If you use foam rubber, you should not tamp it down too hard. Any insulation in a compressed state loses its properties. The thermocouple is not subject to crushing.

3. Place the sealant in the sinus.

4. Using a foam brush, smooth the sealant along the edges so that you get a continuous smooth surface. For a better effect, you can wet the sealant with water from a spray bottle.

Attention! Don't do this with your finger. The quality will be low, but the risk of getting a splinter will be high.

5. Remove any remaining sealant from the surface with a rag.

The choice of sealant is the most critical part of this work, if you do it yourself or “problem good master"Solved. An experienced specialist will advise you suitable option. Most of these products are universal - suitable for any type of work. “Internal” sealants, as a rule, differ slightly in price from “external” ones. The companies that produce them have an assortment of related products - thermal rope, felt.

Sealants for cracks and joints of logs and beams:

Name, manufacturer	Release form	Unit price, rub.	Consumption, g/linear m*	Cost of processing 1 linear m, rub.
NEOMID Warm house Wood Professional, Russia	Cartridge 310 ml (420 g)	200	70	25
	File package 600 ml (815 g)	360
	Bucket 15 kg	5400
EUROTEX seam sealant for wood NPP Rogneda, Russia	Bucket 3 kg	1100	170	54
	Bucket 6 kg	2000
	Bucket 25 kg	8000
TENAX Tenaplasts, Latvia	File package 600 ml (815 g)	240	75	52
TENAX Tenaplasts, Latvia	Bucket 15 kg	3500	75	52
Therma-Chink Accent, Russia	Cartridge 400 g	280	70	28
	Tube 900 g	360
	Bucket 3 kg	1200
	Bucket 6 kg	2350
	Bucket 7 kg	2700
	Bucket 15 kg	5800
PermaChink, USA	Cartridge (sample) 325 ml	800	63	110
PermaChink, USA	Bucket 19 l	19000	63	110

* - consumption is indicated per 1 meter linear seam 10 mm wide and 5 mm deep (0.5 cm 2)

Question. And yet, what is the difference between a thermal tourniquet and simple foam rubber?

Answer. Condensation can accumulate in the pores of foam rubber and destroy the material over time.

Thermal tapes are made of polyethylene, are universal and can be used with any sealant. Sealing cords of the “Energoflex” type are the most convenient and popular look this material. It is produced by different companies, but the name “Energoflex” is used by almost everyone.

Sealing cords (harnesses):

Name	Manufacturer	Diameter, mm	Price 1 linear m	Release form
Cord Energoflex	Russia	6	5	Bay 800 m
	Russia	20	20	Bay 150 m
	Belgium	6	6	Bay 1500 m
	Belgium	8	6,5	Bay 900 m
Wood Security	Russia	6	5	Box 150–450 m
		10	9	Box 150–450 m
		20	21	Box 150–450 m
Vilaterm "Tilit"	Russia	6	2,9	Packing 800 m
		8	3.7	Packing 800 m
		20	7,5	Packing 150 m

In houses made of long timber or logs, in addition to natural cracks in solid wood, horizontal gaps appear at the joints of elements. Even if the initial installation is done efficiently, this still happens due to natural causes- wood shrinkage. Measures to prevent problems associated with this phenomenon depend on the material itself.

Slots at the junction of calibrated timber

Here it is reasonable to mention the main advantage of calibrated timber over logs. The presence of a tongue-and-groove system on the longitudinal edges of the timber reduces to zero the possibility of air passing through. However, opening the joint even to a small depth allows winter period cold air passes inside the wall, which contributes to the formation of condensation (cold bridge). In spring and autumn, humidified air penetrates there. The tree takes in moisture, and oxidation and rotting processes can begin.

The modern method for blocking the joints of timber frames looks the same as for cracks. In this case, the same materials are used - sealant and Energoflex cord. Sealing materials for log houses from different companies are usually labeled with the name “Warm seam”.

Slots at the junction of logs

With a log the situation is somewhat more complicated than with timber. Here, in case of severe shrinkage, through passages of air may occur. This problem usually occurs in homes that did not receive preventive measures at the right time. The log dries out and cold air enters through the widened joint. wet air, cushioning material (felt, moss, tow, jute) is destroyed and eroded. In this case, the load from the crowns in this place is distributed unevenly, which can lead to distortions.

In order to correct the situation, you need to caulk the joint.

Caulking is a dry method of filling joints between wood elements. This procedure came to us unchanged thousands of years later: a rope or tow, stuffed into a crack, became a stronghold of navigation and wooden house construction. Previously, to seal, the material was impregnated with a hydrophobic compound - tar, resin and oils.

When insulating seams, the caulked material is sealed on top with a sealed layer that does not conduct moisture. Therefore, there is no need for its additional hydrophobization.

What you will need:

Shovel with hammer protection.
Hammer 500–800 g.
Jute, felt, tow.
Masking tape (optional).
Next are the points from the description of sealing cracks (except for the first).

Operating procedure:

Using a spatula, the material is driven into the joint until it becomes elastic.
If desired, the edges of the joint are covered with masking tape.

Attention! Under no circumstances should cracks be caulked. This will lead to increased stress and crack propagation. Only light compaction is allowed.

The described sealing materials have a (gradual) stretch coefficient of up to 4. This allows the wood to “live” and does not depressurize joints and cracks. They are made on the basis of acrylic, are non-toxic and are subject to all types of processing - tinting, sanding, painting. The service life of sealants is usually 20 years. published