New Zealand delphinium is a spectacular and unpretentious perennial. Rules for growing New Zealand delphiniums in the garden from seeds

Delphinium (larkspur or spur) is a herbaceous ornamental flowering plant belonging to the Ranunculaceae family. Today there are over 400 varieties of delphinium. These can be annual or perennial plants. Native to Southeast Asia, China and tropical Africa. New Zealand delphiniums are most famous for their originality and beauty, the fashion for growing which has reached our flower growers.

A little about the biology of delphiniums

Growing New Zealand delphinium is a painstaking process that requires patience and effort. The selection of a site for planting must be approached with full responsibility. The place for planting this plant should be well lit, without winds, drafts and stagnant water. New Zealand delphiniums can grow in one place for up to 5-6 years. After this period, the bushes are divided and planted separately.

The most unpleasant disease of delphinium is powdery mildew. Chemicals are used to combat it. Having given this unusual flower With proper care and attention, repeated flowering can be achieved. The first period of releasing flower buds begins in June, the second, shorter period - at the end of summer and early autumn.

The first hybrids of this garden favorite were obtained by crossing perennial plants. Delphiniums of Scottish, New Zealand and Marfin selection are considered the most popular and beautiful.

Where to buy New Zealand delphinium seeds?

Considering that the cost of the seeds of these hybrids is very high, it has become advisable to organize a joint venture, which means Joint Purchase. Today there are several active forums involved in organizing joint ventures from New Zealand. Thus, you can purchase seeds from Terry Dowdeswell, who managed to establish the production of these hybrids. This is very convenient today for many gardeners who want to grow beautiful and unusual flowers on your site, while the cost of purchasing planting material will be much lower.

The most popular and beautiful are the newly bred varieties of delphiniums from this distant country. This tall plants reaching a height of two meters. They produce large double and semi-double flowers with a diameter of up to 8-9 cm. Some species have corrugated flowers.

One of the most bright plants This group is Delphinium New Zealand Giant.

All hybrids of this group are characterized by frost resistance, durability, resistance to various diseases. They are planted for further cutting. This business is profitable for those who sell flowers. You can see the catalog of all varieties of New Zealand delphiniums on Galina Nikitina’s website, where joint ventures for the purchase of seeds are also held. The joint venture will reduce the costs of the desired product.

How to grow delphinium from seeds?

Growing perennial delphinium from seeds is not only exciting, but also profitable. After all, the seeds for planting this plant are not cheap. In addition, New Zealand delphinium can be propagated not only with seeds, but also with cuttings, dividing the bush and buds.

Planting with seeds is the most reliable and effective method. It is worth remembering that storing seeds in a warm room is not recommended, as their germination will be lost. Freshly harvested seeds are sown immediately or stored in the refrigerator.

Seed preparation

Before disembarking, they undergo a disinfection procedure. They are placed in gauze, then dipped in a highly concentrated solution of potassium permanganate. Some gardeners use a fungicidal solution. Then the seeds should be rinsed directly in gauze under running water. The next step is to soak them in Epin solution (2 drops of the substance diluted with 1 liter of water). After this, the seeds are dried, preventing them from sticking together.

Soil preparation

Next, you need to prepare a soil mixture of garden soil, peat and compost one part at a time, adding half a part of coarse sand. In order to make the soil looser and more moisture-absorbing, you need to add perlite. Add one glass of the substance per ten liters of soil. To destroy weed seeds and fungal spores, the soil mixture is heated in a water bath for 40-50 minutes.

Sowing

Delphinium is planted in small containers, which are filled with soil, lightly trampling. Seeds are planted superficially. In order not to get confused about which variety is which, each container with seedlings must be signed indicating the sowing date. To prevent the seeds from floating to the surface when first moistened, they are sprinkled with a thin layer of soil 3-4 mm. Immediately after sowing, the seeds are sprayed with boiled water. room temperature. Since the germination of seeds in the dark increases, the seedlings are first covered with a transparent container, then with black polyethylene.

Crop care

To speed up the emergence of seedlings, containers with seeds are placed closer to sunlight.

Subsequent care of crops consists of ensuring a stable temperature within 10-15 degrees. You can increase germination by placing the container with seedlings in the refrigerator for several days. Plants quite successfully tolerate temperatures dropping to -5 degrees. After 1-2 weeks, the planted hybrids are again placed in a sunny place. Thanks to this stratification, the first shoots will appear within 2 weeks. It is very important not to miss this moment and immediately remove the film.

Seedling care

Further care of the seedlings consists of regular spraying and ventilation. As soon as the seedlings get stronger and several leaves appear on them, they are planted in separate pots with a volume of three hundred milliliters.

The temperature of the plants should be within 20 degrees. In this case, the soil should be light, breathable and loose.

Hybrids need to be watered moderately and regularly. Excess moisture can lead to the appearance of the “black leg” disease, from which all plantings can die. Optimize care for your pets to prevent this from happening.

In May, seedlings gradually adapt to fresh air and sunlight.

Delphinium fertilization is carried out twice before planting open ground. The break between feedings is two weeks. Agricola or Mortar is used as fertilizing.

Planting in a permanent place and caring for plants

Planting seedlings in open ground is carried out after root system plants will completely entwine the earthen ball. The seedlings are easily removed from the planting container without damaging the roots.

After the plants reach a height of 15 cm, the first feeding is carried out in open ground. One bucket of manure is diluted with 10 buckets of water. You can water five bushes with the prepared solution. Then the soil is loosened and weeds are removed. After this, the ground around the plants is mulched with a small layer of peat.

Thinning bushes

When the plants reach 25-30 cm, they are thinned out. This procedure is carried out in order to obtain larger and more beautiful inflorescences. There should be no more than 4-5 shoots on one bush. In addition, thinning improves air circulation and increases plant resistance to various diseases.

During the thinning process, stronger and healthier stems are left, thin and weak ones are cut off close to the ground. By the way, you can try to root cut cuttings that have a heel on them. The cut areas are treated with charcoal, then with a powdered heteroauxin tablet. The treated shoots are dipped into a mixture of sand and peat, then covered with polyethylene. If everything is done correctly, the shoots should take root within a month. 14 days after rooting, they are planted in open ground. This cultivation of delphinium occurs using cuttings.

Garter to supports

Once the plants reach half a meter in height, they will need to build a support. Two-meter-high rods are dug in next to the bushes. There should be 3 rods near each plant. Then the hybrids are tied to the constructed support with flaps. The next garter is carried out when the plants reach a height of 1 m.

Care during the flowering period

New Zealand delphiniums, like other varieties, love moisture. During the period of active growth, one plant can “drink” over 50 liters of water. In regions with a warm climate and hot summers, flowers are watered once a week, pouring 3 liters of water under one bush. After each watering, a procedure follows for loosening the soil around the bush to a depth of five centimeters.

Delphinium requires special care during the period of releasing flower buds. IN this moment the plant is watered abundantly and fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (20 g of the substance is diluted with a bucket of water). 1 liter of the prepared solution is applied to one bush. Such measures will allow you to achieve beautiful and abundant flowering. Therefore, timely care is important here, which will allow you to achieve maximum decorativeness.

Diseases of New Zealand delphiniums

Delphiniums can be affected by powdery mildew. Most often this happens in mid-summer. Signs of this fungal disease include: white coating, which turns brown over time. It is necessary to take action immediately, otherwise the entire above-ground part of the plants will die in a short time. To do this, hybrids are sprayed with foundationazole or Topaz.

The appearance of black spotting is indicated by black spots spreading from bottom to top of the flower stem. It is possible to cure affected specimens only in a non-advanced form. One tetracycline tablet is diluted in 1 liter of water. The prepared solution is sprayed repeatedly on damaged plants.

When ring spot appears, the leaves of the delphinium turn yellow. In this case, the fight against viral disease useless. Affected specimens are destroyed. The carrier of this disease is aphids. For preventive purposes, plantings are sprayed with actellik or karbofos.

Pests

A particularly dangerous insect that lays eggs in the flower buds of the plant is the delphinium fly, as well as slugs.

To kill flies, flowers are treated with insecticidal preparations. To get rid of slugs, containers with bleach are placed near the plants, which repels them.

Care after flowering

After the end of the flowering period, the inflorescences must be cut off. Seeds are also collected at this time. After cutting, new stems will appear on the bushes. Closer to autumn, delphiniums will bloom again if they are given proper care.

Between flowering, bushes of 3-4 years of age are divided. The bush is carefully dug up and divided into parts so as not to affect the growth buds. To do this you need to take sharp knife. The cut areas are treated with wood powder. The divisions are planted separately. This cultivation of delphiniums also applies to the vegetative method.

After the hybrids have flowered and their leaves have dried out, the stems are cut, leaving 30 cm above ground level. It is recommended to cover the cuts with clay. This will prevent water from entering through the hole into the root system. autumn-winter period, which is fraught with rotting of the roots.

Wintering of New Zealand delphiniums

Regardless of age, all New Zealand delphiniums are frost-hardy. In winters with little snow, plants are covered with straw or spruce branches. These flowers are very sensitive to sudden temperature changes, which can lead to their death. This can be avoided by pouring half a bucket of sand into the bottom of the hole during planting.

Growing delphiniums using seeds is, although troublesome, but worthwhile. Moreover, there will be no problems with purchasing seeds, thanks to the current joint venture system. Create optimal conditions and give the plants proper care, you will be rewarded with amazing beauty that you can admire in summer and autumn.

I would like to introduce you to DELPHINIUMS. I have no doubt that everyone knows them - blue, blue, with an eye, without an eye, less often white and pink. You can buy them in garden centers and from grandmothers. But what breeders from New Zealand offer is the transformation of a “grandmother’s” flower into a MASTERPIECE. See for yourself - in the photo there are delphiniums from the selection of Dowdeswell’s Delphiniums Ltd.

You can order seeds from them. Which is what I did in 2011. Everything is done online, catalogues, descriptions, helpers - everything is on the website.

My results: from each package of seeds (30 pieces) there were definitely shoots, but the germination rate of delphinium seeds is generally low, so I was glad that I received 5-7 seedlings. An exception - in some hybrid lines - there were 10 shoots. They were sent quite late - at the end of May. In order not to lose germination completely, I took the risk of sowing them. The seedlings went into winter small. But in 2012 and 2013 they grew and made us happy. There were isolated attacks, but specimens remained from each hybrid. Didn't let it bloom. This year I’ll look at the condition, maybe try to admire the flowers.

I would not have risked making a purchase that would be quite difficult for my finances if I had not already seen it in reality from my friend, who after university began to specialize in floriculture. Her New Zealand hybrids have been growing and blooming for almost a dozen years. She sells the seeds as second generation hybrids; she would give them to me for free. But I wanted to grow the first reproduction, since the further a generation is from its parents, the less likely it is to get plants of the same species as in the photo.

Well, now admire it.












For many years I have been trying to purchase good varietal delphiniums of foreign selection. But all attempts to find them in Russia were unsuccessful. One could only dream of pink or fully double delphiniums.

Perennial delphiniums that grew from seeds English company"Unwins" often had flowers with a single layer of petals (or their flowers were unevenly colored), which reduced both the size of the flower and its decorative value. Many grown delphiniums had loose ears. To get a good decorative delphinium, it was necessary to grow many seedlings, from which a large number of plants were then discarded. As a result, there was a lot of work, but the result did not suit me.

And finally, my search was crowned with success: I received seeds of varietal delphiniums from New Zealand from the company of New Zealand breeder Terry Dowdeswell, specialized in delphiniums. The seeds came with instructions for English language. Having compared its text with the instructions on bags of delphinium seeds sold in Russia, I understood why our gardeners often fail when growing these plants. Here are the main points from this instruction for sowing delphinium seeds, which I tested from my own experience.

Growing delphinium from seeds

Before sowing, I store delphinium seeds in the refrigerator (at above-zero temperatures) for no longer than one year. I don’t soak the seeds before planting!

To sow delphinium seeds, I use small sterile containers with a transparent lid, filling them with live or steamed soil (I leave a distance of 1 cm to the top edge of the container). I spill the soil with a weak solution of potassium permanganate (foundazole or the drug "Maxim") for the "black leg"; When growing delphinium seedlings, I water the soil with this solution weekly. I spread the seeds evenly over the surface of the spilled soil (at a distance of at least two centimeters from each other), press the seeds into the ground, and sprinkle with dry soil (7-10 mm layer). I close the lid, wrap the container in plastic and put it in the refrigerator (not in the freezer, at a temperature of +3 -+5 degrees). After two weeks, I take the container out of the refrigerator and, having removed the plastic, put it in a bright and moderately warm (+ 20 degrees) place.

Some delphinium seeds can germinate in the refrigerator already 10-12 days after sowing - then I remove the plastic from the container and, without opening the lid, place it on a bright window. When growing delphinium seedlings, I illuminate the seedlings with a lamp, since there is not enough light in the window, and this causes the plants to stretch out.

I expose white delphinium seedlings to a bright window when the first sprouted seed appears. I highlight germinating white delphinium seeds better than delphinium seeds of other colors.

I grow hatched delphinium seeds in a container with closed lid as long as the plants fit under the cover. Once a day, I lift the lid of the container for a short time (so that the leaves of the seedlings do not dry out) and ventilate the plants. I water the delphinium seedlings carefully, with a small stream, using a medical disposable syringe.

I grow delphinium seedlings in a window with a temperature no higher than 20 degrees Celsius.

Once every 2 weeks I fertilize the plants with a solution phosphorus-potassium fertilizer(concentration is two times less than for adult plants) with the addition of Epin (2 ampoules per 10 liters of water) or zircon (1 ampoule per 10 liters of water).

I plant delphinium seedlings in small pots when the plants have 2-3 true leaves. When picking, I take the plant only by the cotyledon leaves and bury it in the ground until the true leaves grow. After picking, I grow the plants at a temperature no higher than + 20 degrees; I make sure that the soil in the pots does not dry out.

In the spring, I plant delphinium seedlings in the ground after the end of frost. I shade it from the sun, water it in a timely manner, fertilize it and carefully protect the young plants from slugs (they can eat all the young leaves, and then the plants will die). I fight slugs with metaldehyde, scattering it around the plants.

New Zealand delphiniums in Russia

The very first blooming New Zealand delphiniums shown created a real sensation at the permanent exhibition of amateur flower growers in Kazan. Their level was an order of magnitude higher than that of delphiniums grown from English seeds. And some plants turned out to be completely double (they had 21 petals on each flower). New Zealand delphiniums belong to the group of Elatum hybrids, reaching a height of 160-200 cm. They are characterized by a dense arrangement of flowers on a peduncle-spike 60-80 cm long.

These plants tolerate winter and spring frosts well. In June 2004 it rained almost every day, so it was impossible to preventive treatment delphiniums from powdery mildew - everything was immediately washed away by the rain. And at the same time, only two plants became ill, which stood in dense plantings near the unventilated blank wall of the house. But, cut off at the root, these delphiniums did not die, but bloomed in the fall.

In the third year, I divided the overgrown New Zealand delphiniums and planted them for propagation beautiful varieties. After digging up each delphinium, I washed the rhizome from the ground, split it to a hollow center, and then cut sections with two or three peduncles, around which several large buds had already formed. Each division had enough roots. I cleaned the old hollow peduncles of rotten parts.

All parts of delphinium are poisonous, so when working with it you should be careful, wash your hands thoroughly after work, and avoid touching your face and eyes.

Delphiniums grow in one place for many years, have a large number of roots and greatly deplete the soil. Therefore, before planting the divided bushes for each plant, I prepared holes by mixing garden soil with living soil, sand, rotted compost and Kemira fertilizer. I planted bushes, watered the soil well to a great depth and shaded the delphiniums from the sun. The new plantings have taken root well.

Delphinium selection

In addition to vegetative propagation, which did not give large quantity plants, I tried to grow New Zealand delphiniums from seeds that were collected from mother plants. The second generation of delphiniums retained their color purity and range, but seedlings different from their parents also appeared.

Seeds of New Zealand delphiniums planted in the ground before winter tended to split more severely, so I grow these delphiniums from seeds only at home, through seedlings.

The third generation of New Zealand delphiniums (grown from second generation seeds) had more severe splitting. Therefore, I no longer began to grow third-generation seedlings - I collect seeds only from queen cells.

When I posted photographs of New Zealand delphinium seedlings on my website, they began to ask me questions about the names of their varieties. But in order for a delphinium seedling to become a variety and receive a name, it must be registered accordingly. Using the Internet, I found in England the organization responsible for registering delphiniums, the registration form and the cost of payment for registration. Everything seems simple. And the registration cost is small. I just can’t find a special English album in Russia yet. color codes(R.H.S. Color Chart), released and updated in different years English Royal Horticultural Society (R.H.S.).

The color of the delphinium (as well as the color of the flower of any plant) must be described according to this album (any year of release), and next to the description of the color you must put the year of release of the album used and the code of this color. In the last issue (2001) R.H.S. Color Chart expanded to 808 colors, codes from 1A to 202D.

Therefore, I decided for now to register these varieties here in Russia (at the State Commission for Registration varietal plants), although this requires more paperwork and is more expensive than in England. I decided to name the varieties of delphiniums in honor of the heroes of English literature and in honor of people dear to me. The photographs below show the flowers of these delphiniums.

The variety "Lady Rowena" is the name of my wife, who received her name in honor of the main character of W. Scott's novel "Ivanhoe". Light pink flower with darker pink edges on each petal; completely terry. Flower size 7-9 cm.

The variety "Aivengo" is named after the main character of the novel of the same name. A sky-blue flower with a pink tint in the depths of each petal, at the point of attachment to the trunk; completely terry. Flower size 7 cm.

The variety "Prince Arthur-2003" is named after my grandson and the year of his birth. Dark pink flower, fully double. Flower size 7-9 cm.

The variety "Doctor Nina" is named after a wonderful doctor and my mother. Semi-double flower of light pink-milky color, with light staminodes in the third row of the flower; staminodes with stripes in the middle of a light pink-milky color. Flower size 7 cm.

The variety "Sean Connery" is named after my favorite actor. A dark violet-blue flower with a wide dark lilac stripe down the center of the petal; all three rows of petals are the same length. Fully terry. Flower size 8 cm.

I hope that very soon the names of these varieties of delphiniums will appear in State Register varietal plants of Russia. As I was told by the State Commission, varietal delphiniums have not been registered in Russia for a long time.

This year I am purchasing newest variety delphinium "Coral Sunset", considered coral pink in color. It would be interesting to try to cross this delphinium with New Zealand delphiniums and get a new beautiful variety.

Growing perennial delphiniums

Delphiniums grow on well-cultivated and fertilized soil (slightly acidic or neutral) without stagnant water or nearby groundwater.

When planting delphiniums, I prepare a separate hole measuring 40x40x40cm for each bush. The distance between plants should be at least 50cm. The planting site should be sunny and protected from the wind, as the plants are very fragile and break easily.

To prevent delphiniums from breaking in the wind and rain, I attach each peduncle of the plant (in 3-4 places along its entire length) with plastic holder rings to a pin at least 2 meters high, stuck nearby in the ground. For this you can use another similar device; It's better to paint it green.

I plant delphiniums in spring (late April) or autumn - from late August to mid-September. I add compost, humus, ash, and granular mineral fertilizer “Kemira” to the planting hole. After planting, I water the plant abundantly until it takes root.

For lush flowering In the spring, I fertilize delphiniums with nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium fertilizer with a predominance of phosphorus and potassium.

In the first year I cover young delphiniums for the winter. You can cover the plants with spruce branches or a small layer of soil, and put a film on top, securing its edges (so as not to be blown away by the wind).

Delphiniums can grow in one place for up to 10 years. But if at the age of 4-6 years the center of the plant rots and the bush falls apart, then in the spring I divide it and plant it. When dividing the bush, I leave no more than 2-3 last year’s trunks, around which young shoots grow.

In the spring I form large delphinium bushes, leaving 2-4 peduncles. I break out the remaining shoots, since with a larger number of shoots the delphinium flowers become smaller and their color is less saturated; and in double delphiniums the flowers can grow semi-double.

Broken, non-hollow shoots no shorter than 10-15 cm can be used for cuttings for vegetative propagation of delphinium. Before planting, I soak the cuttings for 2-3 hours in a heteroauxin solution, and then plant them in a peat-sand mixture and cover them with a glass or plastic jar. I make sure that the soil under the jar does not dry out. After 1.5 months, delphinium cuttings take root.

Delphinium pests

Unfortunately, this beautiful and majestic plant has pests - delphinium fly, slugs, nematodes, aphids.

The main pest, the delphinium fly, lays eggs at the base of plant stems in mid-May. This insect overwinters in the form of a pupa, so when replanting the delphinium, I inspect its roots and add “Bazudin” to the planting hole. When insects are found on plants, I water them in mid-May with karbofos or fufanon.

Delphiniums are susceptible to powdery mildew and viral infections (although new varieties are already immune to these diseases). There is no need to wait for the plants to get sick - it is better to do prophylaxis with a solution of foundationazole, the drug "Maxim", an iodine solution (5 g per bucket of water) or the antibiotic "Tetracycline" (1 tablet per 1 liter of water). I treat delphiniums three times at weekly intervals, and more often in rainy weather.

When using delphiniums for cutting to extend the life of flowers in fresh I turn the cut peduncle upside down, carefully pour water into its hollow stem and then seal it with a piece of cotton wool. In this form, I place the delphinium peduncle in a tall vase.

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To create on summer cottage original composition from bright colors, many summer residents grow perennial delphinium. It amazes with its colors and grandeur. If you look at it from the outside, it seems that giant candles with multi-colored lights have appeared in the garden. Despite this, the plant is not difficult to grow at home. The main thing is to adhere to the basic principles of planting a flower. What is a king like? country flower bed– delphinium? Are there any specifics to growing it? The answers to these questions will help you fall in love with the unique creation of nature.

History of the name and main characteristics

Almost all names and titles have their own mysterious history. Delphinium is no exception. One of them sounds something like this.

Many centuries ago, when the mythical gods of Greece controlled every human action, a talented sculptor lived on earth. His beloved girl died tragically. To find solace, he made a statue of her out of stone, and then brought her to life. The evil gods did not like this act, and they turned the romantic into a dolphin. The girl cried bitterly on the seashore, hoping to see her lover. After a long time, a dolphin swam to her and put a pretty flower on her lap. of blue color. It was named delphinium as a reminder of true love.


There is an opinion that the flower got its name due to the fact that when unopened it resembled a dolphin. It is often known as larkspur or spur. An adjacent variant of the plant (annual, perennial) was combined into a group whose name is Sokirk. Some gardeners believe that the flower is named after the Greek city of Delphi, where it grows in a huge number. Whatever the story turns out to be true, it does not detract from the splendor of the garden beauty.

Today, approximately 450 species of the majestic flower are known. Its habitat extends from China to the tropics of the African continent. Unique photos delphinium help to see the flower in all its pristine beauty.

The plant belongs to the Buttercup family. The bud has quite dimensions. Sometimes it can reach 2 meters. The inflorescences are located along the shoot and resemble a standing candle. Available in the following shades:

  • sky blue;
  • blue;
  • lilac;
  • snow-white;
  • lilac;
  • red;
  • pink.

Perennial and annual varieties are grown, mainly from seeds. Most Popular annual varieties have long been loved by flora connoisseurs.

Ajax

The plant was bred by combining two varieties of delphinium. The result is an original flower up to 100 cm high. The sessile leaf plates have a dense cross-section. The inflorescences in the form of a huge spike grow approximately 30 cm and come in a variety of shades.

Fans of miniature plantings grow dwarf varieties, which grow only 35 cm from the ground. Delicate terry buds are painted in bright colors and bloom until the first frost.

Field

The annual delphinium flower has been cultivated since 1572. Grows up to a height of 2 meters. The buds can be simple or lushly terry. A touch of traditional character. Blooms in June. The last “lights” at the beginning of autumn.

Delphinium perennial

Scientists began breeding perennial varieties in the 19th century. As a result, a number of original species appeared:



Today, gardeners grow perennial delphinium various types. main feature– unique shades of buds. There are about 800 variations. Inflorescences are of a simple nature, double and semi-double. The diameter of the flowers is from 2 to 9 cm.

For creating garden flower beds Breeders offer flowers of different heights - low-growing options, giants and medium-sized plants.

Depending on the area of ​​origin, the flowers of the perennial hybrid delphinium are divided into three main groups: Marfin, New Zealand and Scottish. Each of them has its own characteristics.

Marfin group of delphiniums

For example, plants of the Marfin group persistently tolerate low temperatures. They are distinguished by their unique decorative effect. Large semi-double inflorescences are decorated with contrasting spots reminiscent of the human eye. These include the following varieties:


It is almost impossible to grow flowers of the Marfin group from seeds. main reason– they do not preserve the varietal characteristics of the plant.

New Zealand group of delphiniums

Delphiniums, which belong to the New Zealand group, can grow up to two meters in height. They differ in double and semi-double buds. Some species have corrugated petals. Flowers are resistant to disease, are not afraid of cold, and are perfectly preserved when cut. The most common types are valued all over the world:

  • "Sweethearts"
  • "Pagan Purples"
  • "Sunny Skies"
  • "Blue Lace";
  • "Green Twist"

Their majestic beauty never goes out of style. This is the beauty of flowering plants.

Scottish group of delphiniums

Scottish delphiniums attract attention with their original super terry buds various shades, which sometimes have about 60 petals. If the plant grows up to one and a half meters, then the inflorescence occupies 80 cm of total length. The perennial is unpretentious to weather conditions.

If you practice growing from seeds, delphinium retains its varietal parameters. The following popular types are known today:

  • "Sweet Sensation";
  • "Blueberry Pie";
  • "Deepest Pink";
  • "Morning Sunrise".

Truly beautiful masterpieces of creation. But are there any secrets to growing delphinium from seeds at home? Let's try to figure it out.

The main principles of growing a flower

The first step is to prepare suitable soil for planting the plant. It is best to mix in equal quantities garden soil, and humus. Add sifted sand (half of 1 part), perlite (0.5 cups per 5 liters of soil) and hold the mixture over the steam of a water bath for 60 minutes. During this time, seeds of various weeds and fungal spores will be destroyed.
Now you can put the soil into containers and start planting delphinium seeds.

For the flowers to grow successfully, planting material It is advisable to put it in a gauze bag. Prepare a solution of potassium permanganate, then drop the seeds into it. Leave for 20 minutes, rinse under running water and refill with special epina liquid, which is sold in flower shops. Dry the seeds before planting.

Planting material is carefully laid out on the soil surface. If different varieties are used, paper plates with the name and date of planting are attached.
The seeds are covered with a layer of soil of approximately 4 mm. Lightly tamp so that the grains do not float when watered with warm water.

The basic principles of how to grow delphinium from seeds imply careful care of the crops. To do this, the containers are closed first transparent film, and then black to speed up the growth process. The container is installed near the window, preferably right next to the glass.

The optimal temperature should not exceed +16 degrees, not lower than 11 degrees Celsius.

Depending on when to plant delphinium in open ground, the process of growing from seeds can be accelerated. To do this, containers with planting material are placed in the refrigerator, on the veranda or loggia. It’s not scary if the thermometer drops below 6 degrees below zero. After 14 days, the containers are again placed on the windowsill next to the glass. Thanks to such procedures, the first shoots appear after 7 or 14 days.

As soon as greenery appears in the containers, the transparent and black film must be removed.

Since the seeds of this majestic flower are very capricious, they need to be seriously prepared for sowing. Stratification of delphinium at home is done using a small roll of fabric. The material is cut into strips, moistened with water and planting material is laid out in paths. After this, the edges of the strips are bent with inside closer to the center. Then the fabric structure is rolled up and secured with soft wire.

Pour a little liquid into a small container to support optimal humidity. The rolls are dipped into it without touching the surface of the water and kept for several days. At the same time, they try not to block the constant access of air. As a result of this procedure, the similarity of the delphinium increases.

Secrets of breeding garden beauty

Many flora lovers prefer to decorate their area with large flowers. Some people plant peonies, others like roses. Unsurpassed ornamental plant with bright buds on erect shoots, won the hearts of true gardeners. They come with the original fringe and without it. The diameter of an individual flower can reach 10 cm. In the lower part, the shoots are covered with wide green leaves.

Growing from seeds a unique flower called "Delphinium" New Zealand giant» requires the following operations:


The bag must be ventilated daily to maintain maximum seed germination. Some gardeners use special sphagnum moss instead of bags, where the material swells well.

When the seeds are ready, you can use them to sow delphinium seedlings in special containers. The plant grains are placed in holes 3 mm deep and covered with a small layer of earth.
Can be lightly tamped. Then the container is covered with film or plastic bags are placed on it. In this form, place it in a warm place. If the house is warm, you can put it on the windowsill. After 3-4 days, the containers are placed in the refrigerator overnight. After two weeks, the first shoots appear. As soon as this happens, the film is immediately removed.

Sometimes flora lovers have a question: when to sow delphiniums as seedlings in order to successfully grow flowers. Experienced gardeners It is recommended to do this in late March or early April. It will not be too late to grow seedlings even in May.

Seedlings that have grown three full leaves dive. But you should prepare for the procedure in advance. IN disposable cups are recruiting loose soil and heat it to room temperature. Then, one seedling is placed in each container so that it can take root well.

To prepare the plant for growth in open ground, it must be hardened off. To do this, containers are periodically taken out to Fresh air. Immediately before planting, the sprouts are fertilized with fertilizer.

There is an opinion that annual delphinium is less capricious when grown from seeds indoors. Perhaps this is true. After all, the plant differs from perennials in that it blooms much earlier. It has small buds and grows only up to a meter in height, while perennials are found in gigantic sizes.

The seeds must be fresh or stored in the refrigerator. Since flower seedlings develop rather slowly, delphinium is sown at the end of winter. Most often - in February. For this, planting material is carefully prepared by performing the necessary procedures.

Seeds are sown evenly in small containers filled with soil. To make them clearly visible, the surface of the earth is sprinkled with sand. Practice shows that sowing density has no effect last influence for the development of young seedlings. The best option which gardeners recommend is to place no more than 2 seeds per 1 cm². Although it may seem too thick, don't worry. For the king, flower beds are the norm.

The video provided shows correct landing delphinium seeds. After looking at it, it won’t be difficult to grow one like this on your property. magnificent flower. Often it is the delphinium that becomes the pride of a country flower bed. After all, it fits well into any suburban landscape. The fascinating process of growing a flower brings true satisfaction to devoted fans of green spaces.


Delphinium Homeland: Northern Hemisphere Plant type: herbaceous annual or perennial Family: Ranunculaceae Lighting: sunny place, partial shade

Soil: neutral, sandy loam, loamy Watering: regular Temperature: thermophilic Flowering: June-July Height: up to 2 m

Reproduction: seeds, division, cuttings

Hybrids of New Zealand delphiniums

In New Zealand, breeder Terry Dowdeswell has been working very fruitfully in recent decades. He created a luxurious series of delphinium hybrids, which he called New Millennium Highbrides. These flowers have the highest decorative qualities, winter-hardy and durable.

Terry Dowdeswell's delphiniums have very large flowers, collected in dense brushes of pure and beautiful colors, semi-double or true double, with 4-6 rows of petals.

Seed storage secrets

The most important thing is that delphinium seeds are stored correctly. When stored in room conditions they lose their germination capacity by the end of the first year.

Seeds should be stored at low but positive temperatures. That's why the best place for this purpose - in the refrigerator.

Sowing seeds of New Zealand delphiniums

I choose a container for sowing seeds with a height of 8-10 cm (it is better to have the possibility of watering through a tray), fill it with soil mixture (leaf, turf, river sand-2:1:1), I water the solution

By the way

Delphinium seeds with dark-colored flowers take longer to germinate than those with light-colored flowers.

Fitosporina-M, I let the soil air out a little and scatter the seeds on the surface. For 1 cm2 - approximately 3-4 seeds.

I sprinkle the seeds with sifted soil in a 3 mm layer, pat them down, gently moisten them and cover them with film.

Shoots

I put the crops in the refrigerator for stratification for 2 weeks. Seed germination different varieties is individual and ranges from 50% to 80%. After stratification, I place the crops on the windowsill (18~20°C) and ventilate them daily.

Shoots appear in about 2 weeks.

Seedling care

To prevent the seedlings from being affected by the black leg, I water through a tray.

In about six weeks I will start picking, which I will carry out in individual cups; I make sure that when planting I do not cover the growing point. For the first 5 days I place the plants away from the sun.

Disembarkation

At the end of May - beginning of June I plant my seedlings on permanent place(usually in groups of 3-5 pieces). A sunny place or ventilated partial shade, without stagnant water, is best suited for them.

Before planting, I dig up the soil well, add humus, sand, and leaf soil to it. In hot and dry weather, delphiniums require abundant watering.

Feeding delphinium

When the height of the shoots is 10-15 cm, I carry out the first fertilizing (organic or mineral fertilizers). During budding and at the beginning of flowering, I feed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

When renewal buds are formed, it is advisable to feed them with nitrogen-free fertilizers.

New Zealand hybrid plants are tall (up to 200 cm) and need to be tied to a support.

Protecting delphiniums from diseases

Delphiniums are highly susceptible to diseases, so they should be sprayed as a preventive measure with solutions of biological products in July - August, every 2-3 weeks. When diseases (powdery mildew) appear, plants should be treated chemicals protection.

When preparing delphiniums for winter, I always cut off the flower stalks, leaving about 25 cm from the ground. I collect the flower stalks in a bunch and tie them with twine or simply break them in half to the ground. This is done so that moisture from autumn rains does not get into the hollow stems and does not reach the root system - this way the roots are protected from rotting and damping off.

The most expensive varieties can be mulched with peat or humus with a layer of 3-4 cm.

Vegetative propagation

Important

When sowing seeds in the ground, the number of delphinium seedlings decreases sharply.

As a result of natural selection, it sprouts and develops more plants with natural color (blue-violet). To save varietal characteristics It is better to propagate delphiniums vegetatively - by division or cuttings.

Large, dense delphinium bushes should be thinned out, leaving 2-3 of the strongest shoots. Removed shoots can be used for cuttings.

Preparing for winter

Faded delphinium stems must be cut back to the ground - in this case they will bloom again, although the flowering will not be as luxurious.

The division of bushes is carried out in early spring or at the end of August. When planting, the root collar is deepened by 2-3 cm, no more

Delphinium seeds can be sown at several times: in March - in the garden, in April and May - in the ground, before winter - on frozen ground.

Varieties of New Zealand delphiniums - description

  • Innocent-pure white with a white eye.
  • Double Innocent– white double and semi-double flowers.
  • Pink Punch– double and semi-double dark pink flowers.
  • Purple Passion– purple-violet with a white eye.
  • Moonlight Blues– dense clusters of bright blue double flowers.
  • Morning Light– dense clusters of two-color bluish-lilac semi-double flowers.
  • R oyal Espiration– cornflower blue with a white eye.
  • Dusky Maidens– pink with a brown eye.
  • Blue Lace– light blue with a pink tint, terry.
  • Misty Mouwes– light and dark lilac with corrugated petals, terry.

New Zealand delphiniums - photos of varieties

New Zealand delphiniums: question and answer

I really like New Zealand delphiniums. But buying plants is expensive. Perhaps they are not very difficult to grow from seeds? What kind of care do they need? Will perennial delphiniums grow here?

Liliya Voskoboynikova, Kolomna

New Zealand hybrids are very decorative, winter-hardy and disease-resistant. Delphinium seeds quickly lose their viability; they can be stored in the refrigerator (at low positive temperatures) for no more than a year. Best time for sowing - March. Before sowing, the seeds need to be soaked for 20 minutes. in a gauze bag in a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate.

Seedlings do not tolerate picking well, so it is advisable to sow the seeds in individual containers, and the layer of soil in them should be at least 10 cm. Use a mixture of sand, leaf or turf soil with the addition of a small amount of humus and peat. The cups with seeds are covered with a dark film, the temperature until germination is maintained at 10-15°C (with seedlings appearing after 9-10 days).

The seeds are covered with a thin layer of soil 2-4 mm. Soaking the seeds will help increase germination; for this, they are kept in a damp cloth in the refrigerator for 5-6 days before sowing. Another way is to place the container with the sown seeds in the refrigerator for 1-2 weeks.

Seedlings are grown at a temperature of 20-25°C; they should not be immediately exposed to the sun. In cloudy weather, it is advisable to carry out additional lighting.

Young plants should be watered moderately and regularly using a spray bottle.

You can plant seedlings in open ground at the end of April. New Zealand hybrids are considered frost-resistant; in winters with little snow they are covered with spruce branches. You can sow seeds before winter, but in this case, due to the effects of frost, the color of the flowers is not guaranteed.