New technology for growing potatoes in small forms of farming. New technologies for growing vegetables

Introduction

Strawberries are one of the most profitable crops. The income per unit area is much higher than the income from growing other field and vegetable crops.

Even the simplest traditional technology allows you to collect up to 15 t/ha. Knowing the retail and wholesale prices for strawberries in your area, you can estimate what level of income you can target.

And this is far from the limit. In the USA, using all means of intensifying strawberry production (storing seedlings in refrigerators, pre-planting fumigation of the soil, mulching, drip irrigation, fertilizing, etc.) more than 50 t/ha are obtained.

Another way to increase the profitability of strawberries is to grow some of them under film, which will make it possible to obtain earlier products with a higher price.

Growing strawberry seedlings can also be a good help.

Strawberries are in high demand among the population. Demand for high-quality berries exceeds supply throughout the entire strawberry season.

1. General characteristics of strawberries

Strawberries are among the most widely grown berry crops. The high plasticity and adaptability of plants to environmental conditions, early entry into the fruiting period, high yields, rapid ripening of fruits and their ability to be processed in various ways, quick return on costs when establishing plantations have led to increased interest in growing this crop. Unpretentiousness, environmental lability of the crop, availability of agricultural cultivation technology, exceptional taste and medicinal properties The first fruits of the spring period made the culture of this species the most common in private gardening.

Strawberries have a low stem, but it grows for 4-6 years. It differs from the stems of woody plants in that it has very developed parenchyma tissues, in which a supply of plastic substances is deposited. The annual growth of strawberry stems does not exceed 2 cm, and in adult plants they reach 10 cm in height. Branching plants, the so-called horns, grow from the upper lateral stems, which are formed in the second half of summer or autumn. Any of the branches ends in an apical bud - a “heart”, from which an inflorescence develops in the spring.

At the end of flowering, and in some varieties even earlier, from the axils of the leaves that formed in the spring, lateral thin, long creeping shoots begin to grow, which spread along the ground. They grow especially in abundance after the fruits ripen and in the second half of summer. Creeping shoots have knees. Rosettes of leaves grow on every second, fourth, sixth and other paired knees. From the base of the rosette knees, tufts of roots develop, which, in loose and moist soil, grow into the ground and branch there. Odd-numbered geniculates (first, third, fifth, etc.) each have one underdeveloped leaf, from the axils of which rosette geniculates alternate with antennal geniculates in the same way as on the main tendrils.

By mid-summer, the earlier rosettes have tendrils, and in the fall, those that appeared later grow well-developed roots and a relatively thick stem 5-10 mm high. These new plants (flyans) are used for planting. Young plants, whose stems have not yet branched, produce fewer tendrils than two-year-old plants with branched stems.

Due to the shallow placement of the roots, it is necessary to maintain moisture in the upper layers of the soil, using shallow inter-row cultivation of the soil near the bushes so as not to damage the roots. The root system of strawberries is sensitive to frost and freezes if it is not protected in winter by snow cover or some kind of artificial shelter. Strawberry roots begin to grow and branch in early spring at a soil temperature of +1-20C. They grow especially intensively before the berries begin to ripen, and their growth does not stop until the soil freezes, if there is a sufficient amount of moisture. After harvesting, new additional roots begin to grow on the stems at the base of this year's growth.

2. Features of the strawberry root system

The root system of strawberries in the first 3 years of plant life increases due to both its branching and the use of new additional roots from the youngest parts of the stem, which are located near the very surface of the soil.

The intensity of growth of the main root system at spring planting decreases after the first harvest, and when planted in summer - after the second fruiting. Starting from the third and fourth years, after planting, the lower part of the stem, along with the roots placed on it, gradually dies off. Roots that die off are partially replaced by new ones that grow from the bases of the horn shoots current year. But with age, the horns rise higher and higher above the ground surface, and the aerial roots suffer greatly from drought or die from frost. As a result, the size of the active root system decreases every year, and as a result, the plants weaken and reduce their yield. So, in the third or fourth year of fruiting, strawberries significantly reduce the yield, so it is not advisable to grow them in one place for more than 4-5 years, and old plantations are plowed up at this time.

The laying of flower buds on the horns, even in the same plant, lasts for 10-16 days. In strong horns they are formed earlier than in weak ones. In the lateral growth cones of the hearts, the meristem enters the generative state 15-20 days later than in the apices (terminal growth cones). On a one-year-old plantation, flower buds begin to form 4-7 days later than on a two-year-old plantation.

Strawberry flowers are collected in thyroid inflorescences of the dichasial type, and therefore they do not develop simultaneously in the inflorescence. First, flowers of the first order appear, then flowers of the second order grow from the axils of its two bracts, and from them flowers of the third order, etc. The apical inflorescences have from 6 to 11 flowers.

In the conditions of the Forest-Steppe of Ukraine, strawberry blossoms begin in the third ten days of April - early May. First to bloom early varieties, after 4-5 days - the average ripening period and after 8-10 days - later ones. The length of the flowering period depends on the variety and weather. Sometimes the last flowers bloom while the first fruits begin to ripen. Between the beginning of flowering and the beginning of berry ripening, a period of 20 to 26 days passes.

The qualitative characteristics of the fruit are one of the components of the economic assessment of the variety. To the main elements qualitative characteristics fruit belongs to: taste, shape, size, one-dimensionality, marketability, chemical composition, suitability for technical processing. All of them vary within certain varietal boundaries depending on the conditions of the agricultural environment of the year. According to their taste qualities, varieties are classified as dessert, table or technical.

The taste of the fruit depends on the content of sugars, acids and the ratio between them, as well as on the degree of aromaticity, taste and consistency of the pulp. The berries are sweetest when ripe in sunny days. Lack and excessive amounts of moisture in the soil significantly impair the taste of the fruit.

Berries are also distinguished by their aroma. Although large-fruited strawberries have a pleasant aroma, it is less pronounced than that of wild strawberries and wild strawberries. Strawberry varieties vary significantly in fruit size. Fresh strawberries are picked in the morning, when the dew has disappeared, or at the end of the day before the dew appears. The popularity of strawberries as a dietary and medicinal product is explained by their taste, which is combined with a wide range of medicinal effects. Strawberry fruits increase appetite, improve digestion, and have a diuretic, choleretic, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, hypoglycemic, and antithyroid effect.

3. Modern technologies for growing strawberries

strawberry root pulp harvest

Successful cultivation of strawberries must begin with careful selection of soil. In principle, you can try to select any soil for garden plot. Of course, there is certainly a relationship between soil type and crop size. Definitely the most best result is always achieved on chernozem podzolized soils, as well as on dark gray forest soils of medium and light composition. Light gray, peaty soils and soddy-podzolic soils will yield smaller yields. It is very important that groundwater flowed at a depth of no less than 60 cm.

Strawberries are planted mainly on southwestern slopes, with a steepness of about 2 - 3 degrees. On such slopes, the growing season begins earlier and the crop ripens faster. It is not recommended to use closed, variable areas for planting strawberries. If the soil freezes to a depth of 15 - 18 cm to a temperature of -8 degrees, then your strawberries are in mortal danger. The recommended soil acidity level is 5.5 - 6.5, and the humus content is 2% or more.

The most favorable soils for planting are those of average mechanical composition with a neutral reaction. Watersheds, tops and bottoms of hills and lowlands, as well as slopes greater than 100 degrees are unsuitable for strawberries. It is better to use the middle and upper parts of gentle slopes, protected from the wind.

A year before the bookmark new plantation it is necessary to establish the number of phytophagous insects that populate the soil (wireworms, mole crickets, larvae May beetles and caterpillars of gnawing cutworms). When the number is 3-5 individuals/m2, destructive agrotechnical and chemical measures are carried out or a new plantation is selected.

It is advisable to fertilize the soil with rotted humus: 30-40 t/ha (3-4 c/area). The best predecessors of strawberries are grains and green manure crops. After them, it is better to plant root vegetables and legumes, next year - pumpkins, after that - tomatoes and onions.

It is better to plant seedlings in August and early September or early spring, when there is enough moisture in the soil and low air temperatures prevent the planted seedlings from drying out. The seedlings must be healthy, pure grade, with good roots, grown in nurseries or taken from mother bushes and not infested with mites. If there is a suspicion that seedlings are infected, it is necessary to carry out heat treatment: immerse the seedlings for 15-17 minutes in water t = 46-470C. Before planting, the planting material must be treated with the root-forming stimulator “Kornevin”. This drug with active substance 4 indolylbutyric acid promotes rooting and improves engraftment when transplanting various crops. The root system of strawberries must be soaked before planting in a working suspension: 10 g per 10 liters of water for 3 hours.

The seedlings are planted so that the root collar is located at ground level, and the apical bud remains open. Under such conditions, a high percentage of seedling survival is achieved.

Basically, the distance between rows in specialized farms is 70-90 cm, the distance between plants is 15-20 cm with a single-tape planting scheme. With a multi-tape planting scheme, the row spacing is 100 cm, the plants are placed 20-30 cm apart, the distance between the tapes is 30-40 cm.

For personal plots with a single-tape planting scheme, the row spacing is 50-60 cm, the plants in the tape are placed at a distance of 15-20 cm from each other. With a multi-tape planting scheme, the row spacing is 70 cm, the plants in the tape are placed at a distance of 20-30 cm from each other, the distance between the tapes is 30-40 cm.

Caring for plantings after leaving the snow consists of removing plant debris in order to destroy overwintering ticks, as well as pathogens.

At the beginning of the regrowth of leaves (if gray rot, powdery mildew and spots were present in the previous year), spray with a fungicide 3% Bordeaux mixture (30 kg/ha of copper sulfate, 30 g/area).

During the period of leaf regrowth, if you did not spray it at the beginning of regrowth, you need to treat it with Bayleton fungicide 25% pp. (0.24 kg/ha) against powdery mildew and gray rot. Also spraying with insecticides: Actellik 50% a.e. (0.6 kg/ha) in the presence of caterpillars of 1-3 instars of moths, pyaduns and leafrolls, false caterpillars of sawflies, larvae and adult insects of galits and aphids; colloidal sulfur (5 kg/ha, 50 g/area) in the presence of mites; sowing the plantation with dill, parsley, marigolds, mint to repel harmful insects.

At the beginning of budding at the first manifestations of powdery mildew, spray with Topaz 100 EC fungicide e.g. (0.3-0.5 l/ha), in the presence of pests, treatment with colloidal sulfur (5 kg/ha, 50 g/area); Actellik 50% e.e. (0.6 kg/ha).

To increase productivity, treatment with an aqueous solution of Emistim S (1 ampoule of 1 cm3 per 10 liters of water per 1 hundred square meters).

After flowering, you need to mulch with peat, straw, a mixture of straw with pine needles, and pine needles. This protects the berries from damage by gray rot, helps preserve their presentation and creates unfavorable conditions for the development of pests. During the ripening of berries, it is necessary to collect and destroy the affected berries to reduce the supply of infection by pathogens (especially rot). After harvesting, the green mass must be mowed and immediately removed from the plantation in order to destroy mites and leaf-eating insects and reduce the infectious onset of powdery mildew and spotting.

Row spacing is treated 4-7 times during the growing season. At the end of the growing season, the tendrils in the strip are thinned out, leaving them at a distance of 15-20 cm from each other.

Conclusion

Strawberries are one of the most delicious berries, loved and grown almost everywhere. This crop is quite unpretentious and productive. It is grown everywhere; it is most widespread in gardens and summer cottages.

After the first commercial harvest, which is the largest, the plantation is plowed without any regret. This is the only way to achieve maximum yield, the largest size of high quality fruits.

Leaving a plantation for 2-3 years means dooming yourself to a constant struggle with weeds, mustaches, and the use of fertilizers and pesticides. And ultimately - to a decrease in yield and its quality.

Naturally, care must be taken to next year a new plot of strawberries was grown. Here, the costs of seedlings and planting seem to increase, but all this pays off with a higher and higher-quality harvest.

You must have at least three varieties of strawberries with different ripening periods: early, middle and late.

This will not only increase the growing area with the same number of people picking, but will also raise the average selling price of strawberries.

Regardless of the quantity of strawberries on the market, you will have an advantage in the market only if you are able to offer a quality product.

Since strawberries are perishable and delicate, how to harvest them is critical. Perfect option, which we must strive for - the strawberries are picked from the bush and from that moment no one touches them until the consumer himself. It should not be overfilled or shifted. To this end, we have introduced picking strawberries directly into the box in which they will be sold. The collector on a special trolley moves it in front of him, he has two hands free for collecting. Apart from him, no one touches the strawberries - they do not break or wrinkle, which allows them to have a good presentation.

Modern intensive methods of year-round cultivation of roses and other flower crops are being developed and improved in many greenhouses. different countries. To date, new technologies have been introduced in Ukraine with a complex of automated technical means to many farms in Russia, Ukraine, and Uzbekistan. Elements of modern technology for growing roses is the use of inert and organic substrates (perlite, coconut, pumice, mineral wool, etc.); drip irrigation; a new system for feeding roses with solutions; Automatic equipment for cooking and serving nutrient solutions, to maintain the microclimate in the greenhouse; equipment for carbon dioxide fertilizing of plants; additional lighting using lamps; shading from excess sun, the use of fogging units for evaporative cooling of the greenhouse, chemical and biological methods of protecting flower crops from pests.

Modern intensive methods of year-round rose cultivation.

Except technical support greenhouses, it is important to correctly form rose bushes of promising industrial varieties used for cutting. As planting material for establishing greenhouses, we use own-rooted roses of certain varieties grown from cuttings, or six-month oculants obtained by grafting industrial varieties of roses onto special promising rootstocks without a biological dormant period to ensure long-term operation of plants in the greenhouse (5-6 years).

The development of roses in a greenhouse depends on the physical and chemical properties substrate, from correct landing plants and ensuring the required density of plantings, from regular and sufficient (but not excessive) watering and fertilization, from competent implementation of agrotechnical practices (correct maintenance and regular care looking after plants, maintaining a suitable microclimate, bending shoots, correct and timely cutting of shoots and pruning rose bushes).

Amateur flower growers and small farms, who do not have the opportunity to purchase expensive equipment and build modern, highly equipped greenhouses, use proven traditional methods of growing roses in a greenhouse. Grafted rose rootstocks suitable for forcing are planted in trays, pots or buckets in the first half of October; As a substrate, take a loamy soil mixture rich in humus and nutrients. Half or two-thirds of the above-ground part is removed from the rootstocks, then pots are installed in storage or pits in deep greenhouses with optimal temperature 0 degrees. Rose hips, onto which the buds of cultivated varieties of roses are grafted, are in a state of natural dormancy until approximately December. At a temperature of 5 degrees, the rootstock and overwintered bud begin to grow. At the end of January, pots of roses are brought into the greenhouse and immediately trimmed above the grafted bud. The first 7-10 days maintain a temperature of about 6 degrees ( root system begins to grow quickly, and a shoot quickly develops from the grafted eye). With bud germination, the temperature is gradually increased (by 2-3 degrees every 10 days) to 10-12 degrees, and in good light to 15 degrees. Plants are watered abundantly. After 20-25 days from the time of bud germination, buds form on the cultivated shoot, at which time the temperature is raised to 20-22 degrees. When the buds gain color, the temperature is reduced to 16-18 degrees so that the flower blooms slowly. After 10-12 weeks, the roses bloom, depending on the time of forcing the variety.

Roses are potted indoors for sale or for cutting. In the latter case, one shoot is driven out; All side shoots and buds are removed, and only a short part of the shoot with 3-4 buds is left - shoots are formed from them. After 5-7 weeks, secondary flowering of roses occurs. At good care By this time, you can grow fully developed rose bushes with two to four main shoots. Oculants of cut varieties of hybrid tea and floribunda roses are suitable for forcing. If the plants are prepared for sale, then the occulants are pinched over 3-4 leaves. The shoot becomes lignified, buds quickly form in the axils of the leaves, which subsequently germinate and form 2-3 stems. After 12-15 weeks you receive flowering plants. For this purpose, hybrid tea, polyanthus and floribunda roses are used. Starting from April, growing is carried out in greenhouses. In this case, seedlings suitable for sale are obtained in 7-9 weeks. In greenhouses, rose planting material is obtained 5-7 months earlier than in a nursery.

In closed ground conditions, roses are often propagated by grafting. Rosehip seedlings with a branched root system and a root collar of sufficient length and thickness are planted in autumn in pots with a mixture prepared from four parts turf soil and one part humus. In winter they are stored in the basement or greenhouses, and from mid-December to April they are grafted. Three weeks before the start of grafting, pots with rootstocks are brought into a room with a temperature of 8-10 degrees, then raised to 18-20 degrees. After 10-15 days, sap flow begins on the rootstocks - during this period they are grafted with cuttings prepared in the fall or cut from greenhouse plants. Before grafting, the root collar of the rootstock is cleared of soil and the above-ground part is cut off. They often graft “behind the bark”: cut the bark on the root collar lengthwise by 2-3 cm, bend the edges with a knife and insert a scion cutting with 1-3 buds into the cut. The grafting site is tied with plastic film. Pots with grafted plants are dug into sawdust or peat located in boxes and covered with sawdust 1-2 cm above the cuttings. The boxes are covered with frames or film on top, maintaining a temperature of 22-25 degrees and frequently spraying with water. When a shoot appears and several leaves form on the scion, the pots are removed from the box and placed on the greenhouse shelves. In some Baltic farms, rootstocks are not planted in pots in the fall, but are buried in the basement or greenhouse. In mid-December, they are taken out, the above-ground part is cut short and brought into the greenhouse, where they are placed in rows in boxes and covered with damp moss or peat. For 2 weeks, maintain a temperature of 16-18 degrees and carry out frequent spraying. Those rootstocks that have good bark separation are suitable for grafting; they are grafted with a cutting onto the bark of the rootstock. The grafts are buried in boxes with peat or covered with damp moss and covered with sawdust. The boxes are covered with frames or plastic film, sprayed several times a day, and the temperature is maintained at 20-25 degrees. After 3 weeks, with the appearance of 2-3 leaves, they are planted in pots and placed on shelves in the greenhouse. Further care is usual (temperature 18-20 degrees, shading from the sun, gradual hardening in the spring). Then the roses are planted in pots in open ground. In some farms in Ukraine, roses are propagated indoors using the budding method. To do this, in early October, rose hips are dug up, sorted by the size of the root collar (8-12 mm), shoots up to 25 cm long and roots up to 20 cm long are left, tied into bundles of 100 pieces and buried for temporary storage in open ground. With the onset of frost, they are transferred to the basement with a temperature of 2-3 degrees, where they are stacked in tiers, sprinkled with wet sawdust. At the end of October-beginning of November, varietal cuttings are cut (from roses in open or closed ground) and the leaves are immediately removed, tied into bundles of 100 pieces according to variety, moistened in a solution of iron sulfate (300-400 g per 10 liters of water) and stored at temperature 1-3 degrees, lightly sprinkled with sawdust. From the beginning of December to March they bud. Oculants are placed slightly inclined, up to 300 pieces, in boxes (60x40x20 cm) with wet pine sawdust, provided with labels. Roses are stored on shelves at a temperature of 20-25 degrees for 20 days until callus forms on the scutes and young leaves and roots form on the rootstock. It is important to constantly maintain the required humidity of the sawdust, preventing it from drying out or becoming waterlogged. Oculants are removed from the shelves and, without removing them from the boxes, cut 2 cm above the eye. Then they are transferred to the basement for 30-35 days (3-4 degrees) so that the formed roots become slightly lignified. After this, they are planted in plastic bags (20x25 cm) with four small holes (two at the base and 5-6 cm above); substrate made of turf soil, humus, sand or pine sawdust (2:1:1) with the addition of complex fertilizer (1 kg per cubic meter of substrate). When planting, the substrate is slightly compacted and the oculants are freed from the binding. Bags with plants are placed in a greenhouse (20-22 degrees) on racks with bottom heating. After 10-15 days, the eyes of the oculant begin to grow. In 20-25 days, the grafted shoots reach a length of 12-15 cm. They are pinched, transferred to a cool place (10-12 degrees), where they are kept until planted in the ground or sold - during this time a rose bush is formed and even blooms. Care consists of periodically moistening the substrate and feeding once every 10 days. One bucket of fresh mullein or bird droppings (1:10) is used for 100 bags. From mineral fertilizers use a 0.5% ammophos solution at the rate of 10 liters per 100 oculants. The main advantage of this method is the high yield of seedlings (75%).

In the climatic conditions of Ukraine, many tree species are replanted, both coniferous (spruce, pine, thuja, larch, juniper) and deciduous (oak, maple, birch, aspen, chestnut, ash, rowan, willow). There is a general pattern; The older the plant, the less likely it is to be successfully transplanted. True, some breeds (for example, junipers) are very capricious at any age.

All modern technologies can be divided according to the type of material used into:

Trees grown in nurseries (in containers or natural soil)

Trees brought from forest parks.

When choosing one or another planting material, you need to know the specifics of its cultivation.

Large size from nurseries

This is the most prepared material for transplantation. Every 2-3 years, nursery trees are replanted - they are dug up and planted in a new place, pruning the root system and changing the location of the plant in relation to the cardinal directions. This technology makes it possible to form an even crown, a strong and small root system, and increases the tree’s resistance to transplantation. Among other things, these plants are provided with timely fertilizing and regular watering.

Specialists from many companies have been checking the survival rate of exotic plants in our climate for several years and carry out their preliminary acclimatization on landing sites.

Trees in containers

Large in containers (on average they reach a height of 3-4 m), the system of such a plant develops over several years in a limited space, as a result of which it experiences virtually no “stress” during transplantation. This is an undoubted advantage of container trees over other types of planting material. The second advantage is the possibility of transplantation during the entire growing season without interfering with the life of the plant.

Planting material from forest parks

Transplanting trees from an ordinary forest is a feature of the practice of Ukrainian landscapers. The company enters into an agreement with the forestry department, after which it selects healthy and well-formed trees and digs them up. There is also the practice of purchasing plants “in cultivation” - these are trees from plots located next to the nursery. For example, a large tree was purchased by the owners of a summer cottage several years ago, and now they agree to sell the grown tree to a landscape company. Unlike forest park plants, these trees have already been replanted once, so the likelihood of their successful establishment is greater.

At the request of many of my friends, I will tell you how I grow vegetables. Many summer residents are already planting in this way. I'll try to explain it to you. I work, so I can only go to my summer cottage on weekends. At the same time, you need to rest after a week of work, eat barbecue, take a steam bath, and do a little work on the ground.

Currently, there are several problems in gardening: soil fertility is declining; the earth becomes dense, depleted and has grey colour. At the same time, a drop in fertility entails a decrease in harvested crops. The use of mineral fertilizers and pesticides leads to contamination of soil, water, air and food, which leads to human illness. Traditional agricultural technology used by most gardeners is very labor-intensive. And this reduces interest in gardening among young people.

However, all these problems can be solved quite easily if “natural” farming is used instead of traditional farming. Such agricultural technology not only preserves, it also restores soil fertility. The consequence is an increase in productivity garden crops. Mineral fertilizers are not used, which preserves the purity of nature and human health. A number of gardening operations in natural agricultural technology used less often than with traditional ones. And some are completely absent from it. All this reduces the labor intensity of cultivating land and caring for plants.

In my opinion, it is more important to return to nature and forget the postulate that the soil needs to be stuffed with fertilizers, tormented with shovels and sprinkled with pesticides. Natural farming is, first of all, gentle cultivation of the soil, protecting it from temperature changes, returning nutrients that the earth generously gave to plants.

Every year, in the spring, when we come to our summer cottage, we sow or plant vegetables in our beds. The size of the beds is from 1.4 meters to 2 meters wide, the paths between them are from 20 to 40 cm maximum. It is called traditional way planting vegetables in the garden. The plants in such beds, especially in the middle, often get sick, rot, and as a result they develop poorly; the vegetables are small and cannot be stored for a long time. But the pests get a weakened plant and good food, near which offspring can be laid. Weeding and cultivating such beds is a pain. But in such a bed I saw one positive side. The outer plants, relative to those located in the middle, looked more worthy. Larger ones are not susceptible to disease, and they are convenient to weed, thin out, etc.

I also thought about one more factor. A single tree along the alleys within the city, no one feeds it, the foliage it sheds, and even then they try to remove it for appearance and beauty. Although this foliage could serve as food for the tree. So how does this tree exist, and where does it get its food? Behind last years Scientists have found that plants take about 60% of their food from the air. This is certainly interesting.

The unpredictability of our Far Eastern climate, high temperature changes, night and day, dry or rainy summer, excessive precipitation towards the end of August and the beginning of September confirmed my chosen long years trial and error techniques for growing vegetables.

I came to the conclusion that we need to look for another method that is less labor-intensive, but at the same time with the opportunity to obtain higher yields. I combined two technologies:

• "Ridges" - unique technology vegetable growing for small areas.
• "Agricultural technology of natural farming."

I have become convinced that organics can unleash all the capabilities of plants, saving energy and time. Just on good compost you can see and evaluate the quality of Western and domestic varieties: most of them are created for organic soil. I am sure that we cannot escape organics. That's all there is to it: learn how to compost and also set up permanent beds - once for many years.

Vegetable growing on narrow ridges was developed by J. Mittlider in the 70s of the last century and brought by the author to Russia in 1989. But blindly copying techniques and advice, even the best ones, will lead nowhere. There must be a creative approach to understanding the biological laws of the crop itself and the processes occurring during its cultivation. Mittlider has one drawback (this is my opinion): when mineral fertilizers are used, the taste of the fruit is unnatural. To fix this, instead of mineral fertilizers I use humus, ash, manure, herbal infusion, etc. (I am a supporter organic fertilizers). I am for a clean environmental product.

But you shouldn’t perceive mineral fertilizer as poison. The only thing is to follow the dose. It is better not to feed the plant than to overfeed it. What I am especially grateful to J. Mittlider for is the development of narrow beds. Although Mittlider does not recommend placing the box on narrow beds, I still put together the boxes. Nature itself suggested this to me. In spring many summer cottages It floods, the water doesn’t have time to drain, there is water in the passages. We have the same problem at the end of August and beginning of September - it rains day and night. And in the middle of summer it can rain for 2-3 days, or it can flood the entire garden in half an hour. Therefore, raising the bed 15-25 cm above the path solves this problem. The width of the ridge is 80-100 cm, the length is arbitrary. The gap between the beds is 60-80 cm. It just seems that the soil in the aisles is walking around uselessly. It’s the passages that work, and how!

The vegetable container is high bed, the walls of which are made of bricks, logs, timber, boards, stone, slate... The beds stretch from north to south. The passages between them can be mulched with sand, sawdust, roofing felt, etc. I preferred the lawn, which I cut with a trimmer once a month. I filled some passages with sawdust. The beauty of the garden leaves no one indifferent. There are no weeds, the site is clean and beautiful. The box-box is filled with organic matter. Plant residues (grass, straw, leaves) are placed below, then compost or manure, or we pour infusions of herbs and the like, and the soil from the passages is placed in the top layer. This way the box is filled.

Each bed consists of 2 rows of vegetables, planted along the edges in a checkerboard pattern between the vegetables. This geometry hides a huge reserve of productivity. It has long been noticed: the outermost plant develops almost twice as well as those in the middle - they have much more light and space for growth. And here - all the plants are extreme. A wide row spacing is necessary in order to give them light and space. A small area of ​​organic matter produces more than big square soil. Anyone who has worked on narrow ridges for at least one season is convinced of the enormous possibilities of this method and simply cannot return to traditional technology. Working in the beds, a person experiences joy not only from a good harvest, but also from the process of growing vegetables itself. The beauty of the vegetable garden, which is more like a park, leaves no one indifferent. There are no weeds, the site is clean and beautiful.

In two rows in a checkerboard pattern I plant cabbage, eggplants, peppers, tomatoes, etc. In four or three rows I plant onions, garlic, beets, lettuces, radishes, carrots, etc. This approach requires material costs of the first year to build a garden bed. This tiny drawback makes the container inaccessible to most summer residents. But such a bed works for several years, one might say forever (you just need to replenish it with waste, plant debris, foliage, etc.). After digging, sow green manure. When planting, you do not need to add compost or rotted manure into the hole. This bed is itself compost. The humus is not washed away, since the bed is fenced.

According to many agronomists, 60-80% of the plant gets its nutrition from the air, so large passages play a significant role in the biological process of the plant. The crop receives good lighting and sufficient air flow. About 30% of the plant receives its nutrition from the ground. Naturally, a narrow bed uses 2 times less organic and mineral fertilizers compared to a standard bed. At the same time, you will get a much higher yield from a narrow bed. I've been testing this for several years.

And so, the main advantages of such beds:

• They contain a large amount of nutrients and moisture reserves.
• Convenient watering.
• There is no stagnation of water.
• Does not require hilling.
• They do not require weeding if the beds are mulched.
• They do not require digging, only loosening by 7-10 cm.
• You can plant early, since the beds warm up faster in the spring than usual.
• Crop rotation is easy in narrow beds. Where you planted onions last year, you can plant carrots or cabbage this year. The beds are all the same width.
• Productivity increases by 100% or more.
• Tubers and root vegetables are clean and without visible signs of disease.
• Beautiful and easy to use.
• They take up minimal space and do not create dirt or clutter.

It is very convenient to make shelter with plastic arcs, which are sold in seed stores. We put 2 pegs on both sides of the bed and put an arc on them. The distance between the arcs is about a meter. Depending on the length of the bed, you install the required number of arcs. Covering material or film can be used over the arches until the threat of frost has passed.

This system of narrow beds allows me to get consistently high yields, independent of the vagaries of the weather and the conditions of the site itself. By your votes, I will know whether this topic interests you.

Cloves (Dianthus spp.) belong to the clove family (Caryophyllacea Juss.). This is a complex hybrid obtained as a result of numerous crossings of different species and forms. Cloves are the most popular cut crop in modern world. In temperate regions, cloves are grown in glass greenhouses, as well as in warm periods years in plastic greenhouses and in open ground. When growing cloves, it is important to consider the biological capabilities of this plant. The conditions in which crops are grown in each zone have their own characteristics, mainly related to illumination and temperature. Carnation - perennial. The root system is represented by adventitious roots, lignified in the basal part, and well branched. The depth of the roots depends on the thickness of the substrate layer.

The stem is erect, woody at the bottom. The leaves are numerous, opposite, linear, bluish-green, often slightly curled, covered with a waxy coating. The flowers are large, 5 cm in diameter (the bush carnation is slightly smaller), double. The outer petals are large, the edges of the petals are fringed, the degree of their dissection is different varieties different. The colors of the flowers are varied - red, yellow, orange, purple, white, variegated.

TRANSPORTATION OF PLANTING MATERIAL

To maintain high marketability of cuttings, the decisive factor is setting the correct temperature when transporting cuttings. The temperature should be maintained at 2°C-5°C. When cuttings arrive at the warehouse, they must be immediately placed in cold storage at a temperature of 5°C. If this is not possible, you should at least provide a cold room for storing flowers, where direct influences do not penetrate. Sun rays. During further local transportation, cold temperature conditions must also be ensured. When flowers arrive at the warehouse, check the quantity of products received!

PREPARATION FOR LANDING

For good growth Cloves need a well-fertilized substrate. Before planting, it is recommended to take a soil sample to analyze the nutrient content. Fertilizer application rates during the main filling of the substrate are calculated based on agrochemical analysis data.

A good substrate for cloves is:

• moisture-intensive and well-drained substrate, loose (with high breathability);
• substrate provided with sufficient nutrients;
• free from diseases and pests;
• with a low EC level (1.0-1.5 mS).

STERILIZATION OF SUBSTRATE

Disinfection of the substrate is carried out using one of the main methods - steaming or processing chemicals. When processing with hot steam, the substrate must be dry. Steaming requires a temperature of 70°C; for example, steaming 1000 m2 requires a power of 600,000 kcal/hour. If you plan to plant cloves in a substrate in which cloves have not been previously grown, sterilization is not required. However, if in the area intended for planting, when growing other crops, difficulties with pest invasions were observed, then sterilization should still be carried out.

There are three methods of steaming sterilization:

1. Steaming under a tarpaulin (or other material)
2. Steaming under pressure
3. Injection of hot steam with chemical. drug.

When choosing the most popular first method of steaming, the soil is sterilized to a depth of 30 centimeters. Treatment with chemicals for sterilization is carried out using special injectors. After completion of treatment, the substrate should be covered plastic film, which allows you to get better results from sterilization. The film is removed after five days.

For chemical treatment, the following schemes can be used:

NET FOR CLOVES

Nets for cloves usually have 8 holes, measuring 12.5 cm by 12.5 cm. For growing for a period of 18 - 24 months, 5-8 nets are needed. For a shorter growing period, 4 to 5 nets are required. It is very important to tighten the plants. Recently, more and more widespread plastic mesh, instead of zinc. However, the main recommendations of experts are to use zinc or iron mesh. The nets can be made by hand, but even in this case, do not forget about the need to use iron wire in order to ensure a strictly vertical position of the stems throughout the entire period of growing plants.

PLANT GARTER

Much attention should be paid to proper staking of plants. A maximum plant height of 1.8 m is allowed in the first two years of cultivation. At the peak of flowering, plants should be strong and heavy. Incorrect garter, which leads to bending of the stems and peduncles, poor access of air and light to the middle of the ridge, and breaking of the stems, can significantly reduce the yield. The mesh must be strengthened, maintaining its level in accordance with plant growth. Longitudinal rows of wire are attached to side metal posts, installed at a maximum interval of 3 meters (optimally 2 - 2.5 m). Transverse rows are pulled from twine between plants according to their planting pattern.

LANDING

Average calculation of the number of plants per total area 1,000 m2 requires 20,000 cuttings. Basic recommended planting scheme: 32-36 plants per m2. Before planting, you should install a net on the beds. Average distance between raised ridges = 40 -50 cm. The distance between ridges should not be very narrow! The width of the ridge is from 1 to 1.25 meters.

1. The soil for planting cloves must be properly prepared. Watering the substrate should be done very evenly. Before boarding winter period heating is turned on during the day. 2. Plants must be acclimatized before planting, that is, boxes with cuttings and plastic packaging must be opened. The tops of the cuttings should be completely open, and the roots that crawled out, on the contrary, should be closed. The root system should be moist. When receiving plants from the supplier to the warehouse, it is recommended to plant them as quickly as possible!
H. Plant the cuttings shallowly, making sure that the root formation area is not immersed in the substrate. The cuttings are placed in a small depression, so that after planting top part the cassette (paperpot) was visible. Planting should be carried out across the entire width of the ridge, and not on one side!
4. It is not recommended to water the cuttings abundantly. Your task is to force the plant roots to look for water. Depending on the weather - climatic conditions Watering should be carried out no later than 20 minutes after planting. For the first watering, use hoses with mesh to prevent the roots from being buried by a strong stream of water. Short watering, a greater number of times, is most favorable. The first 10 days will be the most problematic for plants! Start fertilizing immediately after planting. When sunlight intensity is high, plants should be shaded slightly until new roots become visible (whitening glass, or covering the exterior with shade material). In the first weeks, watering the soil should be fairly moderate. However, fogging or misting systems should be run frequently to maintain good humidity levels in the greenhouse. With an excess of moisture, plants are more susceptible to various diseases; with a lack, they develop weaker and the flowers become smaller.

WATERING

Watering should always be done with clean water. Water for irrigation should not be mixed with drainage water, otherwise the risk of diseases such as Fusarium wilt or various viral infections increases sharply!
Watering is recommended during dawn hours, as irrigation during the day increases the potential risk of plant diseases (Botrytis, Fusarium wilt, Rhizoctonia and Alternaria), especially in temperate regions. The frequency of watering depends on the time of year, weather conditions, physical properties substrate. During the first six weeks after planting, it is recommended to use only a top-watering (spraying) system.
Subsequently, the plants are watered with a thin stream of water or drip irrigation is used, without wetting the leaves and flower stalks, since excess moisture can cause fungal diseases.

IRRIGATION SYSTEMS

It is recommended to install one sprinkler irrigation system in the middle of the raised bed. The distance between the scattering nozzles is 0.75 m.
Increasingly, in the production of cloves you can see the use of a drip irrigation system. Usually two to three (less often four) drip lines are used, depending on the condition and degree of soil moisture. For good, proper distribution of water, it is necessary that the drip lines be absolutely horizontal!

TEMPERATURE AND HUMIDITY
Cloves are the most sensitive plant to temperature levels. The optimal temperature in the greenhouse largely determines the size of the harvest and the quality of flower products. As general characteristics crops, it can be argued that carnations do not like high temperatures, therefore, when growing in summer, it is necessary to especially carefully control the climate in the greenhouse. It is important to immediately increase the air humidity above 70% when temperatures rise during the hot months. For cloves, it is recommended to set the temperature in the greenhouse from 15°C at night to 25°C during the day. The temperature should be even, avoid sudden fluctuations. In the middle of winter, during short and especially cold days, the optimal temperature (if additional lighting is not used) is during the day and night. is the range from 8°C to 10°C. Temperature changes are not allowed. But the danger of the Botrytis fungus should be taken into account (do not allow the humidity to rise above 80% at such low temperatures). winter growing It is necessary to have a subsurface heating system. When using the ventilation system, prevent sudden increases in relative humidity.

PLANT NUTRITION

High flower quality and yield depend on the level of plant nutrition throughout the entire growing period. Inaccurate levels of essential substances and nutrients during certain periods of the growing season can cause big problems.
Cloves are a crop that requires the correct application of fertilizers and fertilizing. The application of fertilizers during the growing season depends on the characteristics of the climatic zone for growing cloves.
The most important elements for cloves are the following:

Nitrogen:

After rooting and pinching, under favorable conditions, rapid regrowth of shoots begins and at the same time a root system is formed. At this time, plants need to be provided with nutrients, and primarily nitrogen. Potassium and calcium balance the nitrogen content. If nitrogen levels are too high, this balance is disrupted. The stems become soft. Nitrogen can be quickly washed out with heavy watering!
Potassium:
Nitrogen has the most significant effect on the growth and development of cloves. The second most important element is potassium. The role of potassium is especially great when there is insufficient lighting, so it is so important to provide the substrate with this element, but not to allow its excess, since otherwise the plants will have difficulty absorbing other elements, and the concentration of salts in the substrate may also increase sharply.
With a lack of potassium, carnations weaken and flower stalks develop thinner; the lower leaves turn brown or develop prematurely. Necrotic spots may appear on mid-level leaves.
Calcium:
Calcium is another important element that has great importance for the quality of flower products. With intensive growth, cloves have a greater need for calcium. One of the main tasks of calcium is to ensure the elasticity of the cell wall. Calcium deficiency leads to the development of soft flower stalks, drying of leaf tips, and even drying of the root tips of the plant. The availability of calcium for plants is reduced with frequent applications of potassium and ammonium sulfate.

Magnesium and iron:
Both of these important elements are responsible for the appearance of the green color of the leaf mass of the plant. Lack of magnesium or iron leads to decreased assimilation of cloves and therefore less growth and development. If there is a deficiency, the leaves of the plant turn yellow and sometimes turn white. Magnesium deficiency can be caused by excess potassium in the substrate.
Bor:
Carnation, in comparison with other flowers, withstands fluctuations in the level of boron content quite strongly. If there is a lack of boron, the following symptoms may appear.
-Fragile, weak peduncles. When the ripening period approaches or after cutting, the leaf growth point breaks;
- Splitting of the calyx;
-The buds are suspended in development and do not develop
Boron is quite immobile in the plant, so if a deficiency of this element is detected late, losses in yield can be quite large. The exact level of boron required must be determined in advance. Boron deficiency is caused by high levels of potassium and salts in the substrate.
The table below shows the optimal amounts of nutrients in the soil intended for planting cloves. Data are given in mmol/l of water solution 1:2 (one part soil to two parts water).

The exact volumes of elements such as Fe, Mn, Zn, B, Cu, etc. depend on the type and properties of the substrate.

STRENGTHENING AND PINCHING PLANTS

As the shoots grow, the mesh must be expanded. You should strictly follow the degree of flower development, since if you grow the mesh early, it will be difficult to harvest, and if you grow it too late, the plants will fall to one side. Constantly observe the culture, its development and gradually raise the grid. The mesh plays one of the most important roles throughout the entire growing period, including when harvesting flowers. Young shoots are systematically tucked into the cells. To form a branched, stable bush for crop control, pinch the cloves soon after rooting, 3 to 4 weeks after planting. Exist various schemes pinching the cloves on modern production. If necessary, please contact your supplier for additional information.

To standardize the yield, some flowers and vegetative buds are sometimes removed from the plant:
- on a bush carnation - only the main bud can be removed or pinched.
- on a bush of a standard large-flowered carnation - all the side buds and several vegetative shoots are removed, the main bud is left.
Remove shoots up to the fifth pair of leaves from the bottom. On bushes of longer varieties, when forming, remove shoots up to the seventh or eighth pair of leaves from the bottom.

LIGHTING

Carnation is a light-loving plant. Artificial lighting allows you to accelerate the generative growth of the flower. With long days and high light levels, buds are formed and developed faster in this crop, that is, the onset of flowering is accelerated. By changing the illumination and length of day for carnations, in modern floriculture they regulate the quality of products and the timing of carnation flowering, ensuring it during the periods of late autumn, winter and early spring. During the winter months, cloves may produce fewer cuttings with a low mass. With additional illumination, providing a 14-hour daylight hours, the number of shoots increases, and the mass of shoots also increases. Using day length, intensity and quality of light, both the transition of carnations to flowering (flowering induction) and the various stages of growth are regulated. After the formation of at least 7 pairs of leaves, the plant can be considered ready for additional lighting. Typically, for carnations, lighting of 8 watts per 1 m2, at a distance of 1.5 meters from the tops of the shoots, is sufficient. To accelerate the peak of flowering, additional lighting for 14 days is sufficient for plants.
Additional illumination of cloves increases its yield, ensuring production in winter. Also, in carnation production, cyclic supplementary lighting can be used: for shoots with four pairs of developed leaves, 7.5 minutes of lighting every 30 minutes for 6-8 weeks, that is, in the dark, the lamps turn on every 30 minutes for 7.5 minutes before dawn. Recommendations for the use of supplementary lighting and the use of lighting equipment in greenhouses for different hybrids may differ, therefore, check with your supplier which method is suitable for the carnation you have chosen.

CO2
CO2 is also vital for carnations, like water and daylight. The optimal volume required by plants depends on the time of year and the growth phase of the flowers. It is always necessary to maintain the correct proportions of CO2 concentration with moisture standards when watering and lighting intensity. Studies have shown that CO2 levels in clove production should not be below 200 ppm.

CLEANING AND SORTING

Harvesting cloves requires special care and strict adherence to all technology requirements!
Mistakes lead to a sharp reduction in the lifespan of fresh flowers in a vase. Cut flowers don't stand up high temperatures during storage or transportation. It is not even recommended to carry out cleaning during the hottest hours of the day. Sorting should be carried out in a cool room. The flowers are then placed in water, preferably containing silvertio-sulfate. This element, added to water for carnations, prolongs its presentation and the duration of its standing in a vase. Before moving flowers into cold storage, acclimatize them for several hours.
The storage temperature should be within 5°C - 8°C. Lower temperatures can cause a deterioration in the quality of the plant. The harvesting stage is suitable for a regular carnation, when the outermost petals begin to open. Bush carnations are harvested at an earlier stage of development: three fully colored buds, but before the outermost petals of the bud begin to open.
We present to your attention summary data on labor costs for the production of cloves with an area of ​​1,000 m2 in individual production areas per year.
Labor costs are given in hours.
Preparation for planting (including disinfection) 80
Landing 40
Cleaning 650
Plant garter 450
Pinching plants 500
Plant care 80
Preparation for sale 75
Other labor costs 155
Total: 2030 hours.

PESTS AND DISEASES OF CLOVES

The best way to control the appearance of various types of pests and the development of diseases is preventive measures!
high planting density and bushiness of plants make plant care more difficult and complicate the determination of the presence of disease on plants.
The costs of eliminating infection in case of plant disease are many times higher than the funds spent on a routine program of daily treatment of plantings.

Botrytis
The disease is caused by fungi of the genus Botrytis. The affected areas turn brown, turn brown and soften. A coating of gray mold with black small sclerotia appears on them. Healthy leaves become infected upon contact with diseased leaves. Spores are stored on plant debris.

Stem rot (Botrytis fungus)
This disease is caused by primary infection with fungi Botrytis, Alternaria, Fusarium. Rot appears at the sites of damage or wounds. The supply of water and nutrition stops, the root dies.

Basal rot (Fusarium culmorum)
With this disease, the growing point of a cutting or young shoot turns brown. The plant slowly stops developing and dies. Caused by primary infection with fungi Botrytis, Fusarium, Rhizoctonia.

Rust
The causative agent of the disease is a fungus.
The disease is easily recognized by small, shiny brown fungal spores on the underside and outside of the leaf, and less commonly on the peduncle and flower buds. On the leaves and stems, oblong, up to 1 mm in diameter, orange, brown convex pads are formed, in which the fungus multiplies. When the spores ripen, the skin on the pads breaks and many spores, which are the source of infection of new plants, are dispersed into the air. Ruptures of ripened pads increase the release of moisture from the plant, which leads to gradual drying of the leaves and oppression of the entire plant.
If the infection is severe, the plant dies completely.

POWDERY MEW
The causative agent of the disease is a fungus.
Leaves, stems, and buds are affected. A barely noticeable powdery coating appears on the leaves and shoots, first in the form of small light green areas, which then merge and cover the leaf from the lower and upper sides. Purple-gray sporulation of the fungus develops under the leaves.
Sick plants have a depressed appearance, are stunted in growth, and bloom poorly.

Spotting (a type of fungus botrytis)
Sunken, oval-shaped necrotic spots usually appear on the lower leaves. The center of the spot is light brown in color with purple concentric areas. The outermost areas of the spots are watery and yellow in color.

Fusarium
The causative agent of the disease is a fungus of the genus Fusarium. Roots and stems are affected. In diseased plants, the leaves simultaneously and evenly turn yellow, lose their rigidity, and wither, but do not fall off. The stem turns brown or acquires a reddish tint, the basal part of the stem and the root system rot. The buds do not open at all or do not open completely. Plants are especially severely affected during the budding period. At this time, tissues work with maximum load, and their damage leads to rapid withering of plants.

Heterosporiasis.
A particularly dangerous fungal disease for cloves. Leaves, stems, and flower buds are affected. The disease manifests itself in the formation of small
round spots, first grayish-brown with a dark, sometimes reddish rim, later becoming lighter in the center, surrounded by a chlorotic halo. Later, concentric circles of fungal sporulation appear in the center of the spots. The spots often merge, and along the edges of the leaves they usually have the shape of semicircles. In humid conditions, the spots may develop an olive-black coating. With severe infection, diseased leaves, especially the lower ones, turn yellow and dry out, stems in spots of spots easily break off, flowers either do not develop or have an irregular shape.

ALTERNARIOSIS
In terms of harmfulness, it differs little from heterosporiosis; they often occur simultaneously. The causative agent of the disease is the Alternaria fungus. Leaves, stems, buds are affected various types carnations. On the leaves, the spots are round or elongated, along the main vein of the leaf, and are ash-gray in color. Affected stems become bent and stunted, and newly emerging leaves are smaller in size. Severe damage leads to the death of leaves and individual parts of plants. In wet weather the surface of the spots may become covered with a light brown, almost black coating containing many fungal spores. The disease develops initially on lower parts plants that are in conditions of shading and higher air humidity.

Phialophora wilt
A fungal disease (Phialophora cinerscens) of carnations, which is especially dangerous when grown indoors. The fungus attacks the vascular system of cloves, causing plants to wilt and dry out. Withering and dying of leaves begins with the lower tier, then the entire plant withers and dies. There are cases of unilateral manifestation of symptoms. The first signs of the disease appear on the leaves of side shoots, especially in old plants; they have a reddish-purple tint. Browning of the conductive system of the stem is noticeable at a height of 10-12 cm from the root collar. The roots of a diseased clove look healthy in appearance, but darkened vessels are visible on the cut. Sick plants become grayish, and when they dry out they become even lighter. Often affected plants show no external signs of disease. Fusarium, verticillium and phialophora can often cause carnation wilting. All of them affect the vascular system of plants and have many common similar symptoms of infection. The fungus infects the plant through the soil, through the roots, with mechanical damage. The infection persists in plant debris.

Ring spot
- viral disease. Separate light spots in the form of rings appear on the leaves, old leaves turn brown and curl, and the veins of young leaves become lighter. Brownish spots also appear on the stems. The flowers are small and irregular in shape. The disease is transmitted to healthy plants with the juice of a diseased plant. Carriers are also aphids and nematodes. In addition to ring spotting, a viral disease called pinpoint mottling can often occur. Numerous small spots appear on young plant leaves and the brightening of the veins disappears; a faint mosaic remains on older leaves.

Verticillium wilt
Caused by the fungus Verncillium.
The disease manifests itself in damage to the plant’s vascular system. Pathogens penetrate the plant from the substrate, populate the conducting vessels, which causes changes in the form of yellowing and drying of the lower leaves and wilting of the entire plant. At the base of the plant, the tissues become dark brown in color, and a coating of fungus appears on the affected area.

Late blight
The disease is caused by a fungus from the genus Phytophthoria. The first node from the root collar becomes oily and lighter in color. Affected tissues rot and die.

Rhizoctoniosis
A dangerous disease of cloves caused by a fungus of the genus Rhizoktonia. The disease manifests itself in blackening and rotting of the root collar of young plants. Dry brown rot of a fibrous structure appears at the site of the lesion. Later, the stem at the site of the lesion becomes thin and the plant then dies.

Bacterial wilt
A disease caused by the bacterium Pseudomonas caryophylli. In appearance, this disease is similar to Fusarium or Verticillium wilt. The only difference is that when pressure is applied to the cut of a diseased plant, a thick, dirty-brown mucus appears, which is not observed in plants affected by fungal diseases. As a result of bacterial infection, the flower withers, the tissues of the stems and roots become brown and rot.

PESTS

Aphid
A dangerous pest that damages many flowering plants. The greenhouse aphid is an insect with an ovoid body (about 3 mm), red, green or yellow color with transverse dark green stripes. The greenhouse aphid is wingless, less often with wings, living in colonies. It eats young shoots and leaves, causing them to become distorted and discolored. All organs of affected plants become sticky.

Thrips
Thrips is one of the the most dangerous pests carnation Thrips is a small insect 1 - 1.5 mm in size, dark brown in color with fringed wings. The larvae are yellow or orange. The damage is caused by adults or larvae. During the growing season, they suck the juice from the leaves, on which spots and spots form silver color. When flower stalks appear, thrips accumulate on them and penetrate inside the buds. If the damage is severe, the flowers do not open, become discolored and dry out. Insects cause the greatest damage under conditions of dry weather and high temperatures.

Butterflies
Butterfly larvae and moths can cause enormous damage to carnation plantings. They feed on young leaves and flowers of carnations.

Spider mite
One of the most dangerous and polyphagous pests. Adults are greenish-yellow, oval-shaped, with two dark spots on the back, and with four pairs of legs. The eggs are round, light, shiny. Adult mites and larvae, sucking out the juice, cause a sharp disruption of physiological processes in plants.
Damaged leaves become marbled in color, then turn yellow and dry out. If the infection is severe, the plants die. The tick forms a web in which it lives. Overwinters in the soil and on plants in the greenhouse.

* - when using any drug, carefully read the instructions beforehand and follow the recommendations of specialists from the drug manufacturer or the company supplying this drug.
** - do not always use only one drug. For the next treatment, choose a drug from a different group in order to prevent pests from becoming accustomed to it.

Growing in open ground

To obtain good results when growing cloves in open ground, special attention must be paid to the problem of the appearance of weeds. Currently, there are a number of modern drugs that allow precise control over the appearance and development of weeds and pest invasions.
Before planting cuttings in open ground, the soil should be fertilized. It is recommended to first take a soil sample for planting to analyze the nutrient content. Typically, 7 kg 12-10-18, 3 kg tri-superphosphate and 3 kg kieserite per 100 m2 are used for basic fertilization. After the main fertilizer, the soil is plowed. The distance between the ridges should not be narrow. The width of the ridge is at least 1 m. In areas with a temperate climate, growing cloves produces only 1 harvest per year. In Russia, many leading flower growers produce carnations for sale on September 1, Schoolchildren's Day, since this is the flower that is usually most abundantly present in autumn bouquets. For one-year cultivation, 1-2 nets are needed to support the plants.
Planting in open ground is carried out at the rate of 14,000 - 18,000 cuttings per 1000 m2. In order to collect by the last week of summer good harvest, you should first of all, when choosing varieties, remember about the short warm period in our climatic zone. It is also possible to produce varieties with a long growing season with the mandatory use of growth stimulants. To obtain an earlier harvest, growth regulators are also used to inhibit plant development. The first planting of cuttings is carried out in a greenhouse. Then due to special means plant growth is stopped. Shoots form on the bush even before planting in open ground. Such plants will produce a harvest several weeks earlier.
When grown in open ground it is possible to use various systems watering (irrigation, overhead watering, drip irrigation, etc.) The most important factor when watering is the uniform distribution of water! Plants should be fertilized regularly in accordance with the composition and concentration of various nutrients in the substrate, especially in areas with a rainy climate. Nitrogen can leave (leave out) from the soil most freely.
Protective screens generally have more disadvantages than advantages. Their use in outdoor clove production reduces air circulation, increasing the risk of diseases such as Botrytis, Ring, Alternaria and Stem Rot. (see chapter Pests and diseases of carnation).

As you know, the yield of any agricultural crop is determined by a number of factors. Firstly, the determining role is played by the variety - its potential, genetically determined productivity. And, secondly, the conditions for cultivating the crop, allowing for the maximum realization of the potential capabilities of the variety.

Modern systems agriculture – essential tool further development of agricultural production.First of all, through them it is necessary to provide the most favorable conditions for the growth and development of plants. This is possible subject to timely and high-quality implementation of all technology methods (soil cultivation, fertilization, compliance with deadlines, standards, sowing methods, etc.). The most important factor in the intensification of agriculture is the level of use of organic and mineral fertilizers. The enormous importance of fertilizers in increasing soil fertility and crop yields has been proven by numerous experiments and centuries-old practice of world agriculture. According to experts, the use of organic fertilizers in combination with mineral fertilizers, when applied correctly, ensures a yield increase of 40-45% in the black earth regions and up to 60-75% in the Non-Black Earth zone of Russia (Solovieva, 2010). Proper Use Fertilizers contribute not only to obtaining a high yield, but also to improving its quality and maintaining an active biological and economic balance of nutrients.

However, the use of fertilizers in high doses, without taking into account biological features of plants, soil properties often does not give the expected result, and even leads to a decrease in yield and its quality, and pollutes the environment. At the same time, in many regions of the country there is an acute problem of maintaining soil fertility. In modern conditions, when using new varieties and advanced technologies for their cultivation, taking into account the soil and climatic conditions of each region and zone, it is necessary not only to ensure a further increase in the production of various crop products, but also to focus on more environmentally friendly farming systems.

One of essential elements These technologies are the use of the most effective forms of fertilizers. In recent years, the share of liquid fertilizer use in global practice has been increasing, which is due to significant economic effect when using them, as well as a significant reduction in the environmental load on the environment. The use of liquid forms of fertilizers improves the supply of nutrients to agricultural plants due to their availability. Liquid complex fertilizers contain both main components (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) and microelements; they can be applied more evenly using different stages growing season of the crop: during sowing and foliar feeding. In turn, the intensity of plants’ absorption of nutrients from the soil depends primarily on temperature, humidity, pH level, development of the root system of the crop, activity of microorganisms and the use of basic fertilizers. Deficiency of microelements (such as Cu, Zn, Mn, Fe, B) occurs mainly on carbonate soils, that is, at high pH levels. Sandy acidic soils have low level provision of mobile forms of boron, copper and molybdenum. At low temperatures, plants slowly absorb manganese and zinc, and at high temperatures, boron, iron and copper become unavailable. In such conditions, foliar feeding must be applied during critical phases of plant development.

No less important role Growth regulators play a role in increasing the yield of agricultural crops and improving their quality than the use of fertilizers or plant protection products, which allow you to control the process of growth and development of plants, which allows you to fully realize their life potential. The use of plant growth regulators in combination with microfertilizers maximizes their effectiveness.