People of the older generation remember the time when the walls and ceilings of homes were “decorated” with twisted braids of external electrical wiring. During construction modern houses Builders “hide” wires, pipes and other communications in advance in special channels of enclosing structures.
The arrangement of communication channels is taken into account when calculating the load-bearing capacity of building devices. The situation is different with an additional device hidden communications in monolithic, panel houses of old buildings.
Is it possible to trench load-bearing walls in such houses? This article will answer this question in detail.
Is it possible to groove walls in a panel house?
If the grooved channel does not expose the reinforcement reinforced concrete slab, then there is no need to worry To prevent the interior of the room from being spoiled by wall communications, they are made hidden. For this purpose, pipes are also made in enclosing structures. Is it possible to trench a wall in panel house under wiring? Of course, this is possible, but only if a number of conditions are met.
The arrangement of channels in the body of partitions in monolithic house does not cause problems. This also applies to panel houses. A partition is a structure that bears the load only from its own weight and does not affect the load-bearing capacity of the entire structure.
Another thing is load-bearing walls. A significant violation of the integrity of concrete walls will lead to a loss of their load-bearing capacity, and this, in turn, can cause irreparable consequences.
Upper layer concrete in reinforced concrete slab from 30 to 50 mm On the Internet you can find many articles on this topic that state in a categorical tone that it is impossible to rave walls in a panel house. You should try to refute such statements.
To understand the essence of the problem, you need to know design features reinforced concrete walls. The main load-bearing load is taken by a metal reinforcing frame, “pierced” by a mass of concrete. The top surface layer of concrete plays a protective role. Therefore, if gating walls for wiring does not expose the reinforcement, then monolithic fences will not suffer from this.
The protective layer of concrete is usually from 30 to 50 mm. For a two-core wire, a channel depth of 10 - 15 mm will be sufficient. To lay several cores, you should punch a groove in the load-bearing wall with a depth of 20 - 25 mm. The wider the channel, the more wires can be laid.
The groove must be made in such a way that the load-bearing wall does not have channels with exposed reinforcement.
Location of channels for wiring
All channels must be direct How to groove panels so that the amount of work and material costs are most optimal? Make channels in wall panels perhaps in two ways. In the first option, a horizontal and vertical groove is punched. In the second case, the channels are located diagonally from distribution box to sockets and switches.
The diagonal position of the channels significantly saves labor costs and material consumption.
Wall gating technology
There are several ways to pierce a wall:
Hammer and chisel
The channel can be made by tapping the chisel with a hammer A channel in the plaster layer can be punched using a hammer and chisel.
Plaster is essentially a soft material.
By lightly tapping the hammer on the chisel, a channel of the required width is punched. You can use a chisel as a chisel.
Drill and chisel
A concrete drill is inserted into the drill chuck. Holes are made along the entire length of the groove at small intervals. Then a channel is punched, removing sections of concrete between the holes with a chisel.
Hammer
A tip in the form of a spatula or lance is inserted into the tool. Working in jackhammer mode, the hammer drill knocks out a groove of the required depth and width in the concrete.
Wall chaser
Wall cutter device The power tool is equipped with one or two cutting discs. A double-disc wall chaser allows you to cut channels of various widths. The distance between the cutting discs is adjusted manually.
Features of laying wires in the floor slab
Do not install grooves in the ceiling Let us immediately clarify that this is not necessary.
In panel houses, the floor slabs are hollow-core.
When building houses, builders lay an electrical wire into one of the voids in the floor slab. A hole is made in the center of the ceiling to allow electrical cord from inside to outside. When replacing the old wire in the void channel, new wiring is pulled.
Grilling in partitions
Partitions that do not take loads from the structures above can be grooved without any restrictions.
When drilling through, one socket is connected to the wire on one side of the wall, and on the other side - a second one.
This solves the issue of saving electrical wiring consumption. To learn how to properly groove, if you are not an expert, watch this video:
Compliance with safety rules
Wear rubber gloves and safety glasses when working with the tool. When using electromechanical tools, you must comply with a number of safety regulations:
- When working with power tools in areas with high humidity, be sure to wear rubber gloves and shoes with rubber soles.
- To protect your eyes you need to wear special glasses.
- To prevent cement dust from entering the worker’s lungs, wear a gauze bandage or a respirator.
- When performing this type of work, the room must be well ventilated.
- Do not overheat the tool. From time to time you need to give your power tool a rest.
- During breaks in work, all cement dust is removed with a vacuum cleaner. If powerful dust formation occurs, then the nozzle of the turned on vacuum cleaner is kept next to the channel during gating.
Laying wires in grooves
After installing the wire, the groove is filled with solution Hidden wiring arranged as follows:
- The wiring is laid in the channels cleared of dust, fixing it with alabaster every 200 - 300 mm; if this is not enough, the number of fixation points is increased.
- The grooves are sealed with cement mortar.
- The hardened cement is primed.
- Finally, the channels are puttied under the finishing coating of the wall. For more information on cable installation, watch this video:
If it is not possible to install channels for electrical wiring, plastic boxes are installed on the walls in which the wiring is laid.
According to the resolution of the Moscow Government dated February 8, 2005 No. 73PP in residential buildings standard series, it is not allowed to “install grooves in horizontal joints and under internal wall panels, as well as in wall panels and floor slabs.”
Let us consider these cases in more detail. Horizontal seams mean seams between panels, or between a floor panel and load-bearing wall. In some old panel houses, the walls are made of two slabs standing on top of each other. If the integrity of the seam is compromised, the load from the top slab will be distributed over a smaller area, which can lead to its collapse. When installing grooves in the upper and especially lower horizontal seams, the connection between the ceiling and the load-bearing wall on which it rests is lost.
Destruction of the reinforcement of floor slabs and load-bearing walls is extremely dangerous. Concrete itself is a strong material, but fragile, and if it is provided with reinforcement, it is flexible metal frame, - then under critical load it will not collapse completely, but will only give small cracks. In this case, the load will not fall only on the reinforcement. A curved slab, stretching on one side, is compressed on the other, where concrete prevents its compression.
All slabs, without exception, bend, both horizontal and vertical, therefore, without even touching the reinforcement, you can significantly reduce the load-bearing capacity of the slab. Usually the protective layer of concrete is 25 mm, but in case of defects it can be less, so there is a risk of exposing the reinforcement during shallow gating. Exposed reinforcement rusts, and this does not have the best effect on the condition of the structure. In general, given the poor quality of the vast majority of houses, gating even in places not specified in the above decree can be dangerous.
There are areas in residential building structures where gating is permitted, but not desirable, and where it can significantly reduce its ability to resist external and internal loads
For example, rigidity diaphragms are walls that prevent load-bearing walls from moving away from their design position, found in monolithic and brick buildings. The rigid structure, as a rule, is the staircase-elevator unit, therefore, in the apartments adjacent to it, the possibility of gating is more limited than in others. Vertical seams in panel houses are not recommended for gating, since vertical slabs, and especially outer wall, not only compress under the influence of loads, but also bend, while the outer wall tends to bend outward. In addition, a noticeable impact on the home can be caused by strong wind, which the outer wall would not be able to resist if it had no support. This support is provided by perpendicular panels that prevent it from falling and protect each other from deflections. Therefore, cutting horizontal seams is only relatively safe.
It is possible, perhaps, to trench the walls under the cladding without causing harm only in brick houses, where their thickness is approximately 300-400 mm, and in some monolithic new buildings. Important factors determining the possibility of gating are the scale of unauthorized redevelopment, leading to a partial loss of the load-bearing capacity of the building structure, the presence of defects in all types of houses and the wear and tear of old buildings.
Grooving is usually done with a hammer drill, but there is a drilling technique with a diamond cutting surface that allows you to lay a channel for wiring without unnecessary noise, dust and vibrations that cause cracks in concrete.
Is it allowed to ditch where decree No. 73PP does not prohibit? The answer to this question can be found in Resolution No. 883PP dated November 15, 2005. It states that “replacement and (or) installation of additional equipment (engineering, technical) with an increase in energy and water consumption and (or) with the replacement of existing or laying additional supply networks (excluding the installation of heated floors from communal water supply and heating systems) » refers to reconstruction work and is carried out according to a project that is being approved by the relevant organizations.
In addition, the project includes the installation of household electric stoves to replace gas stoves or kitchen fireplaces, installation of outdoor technical means(air conditioners, antennas, etc.), elements that ensure unhindered movement low mobility groups population (squeezing telescopic elevators, double-row handrails, etc.), as well as the installation (transfer) of toilets, bathrooms and kitchens.
Rearrangement of plumbing fixtures in the existing dimensions of toilets, bathrooms, kitchens is carried out according to the sketch
Replacement (without rearrangement) engineering equipment similar in parameters and technical device carried out without drawing up design and permitting documentation.
From Resolution No. 883PP it follows that the replacement and installation of additional equipment will have to be coordinated if it is planned to replace old ones and lay new supply networks, but in practice everything is much more complicated.
Residents of only some new buildings will have to order an electrical project if there is no plan to increase energy consumption and have it approved, where this may be required by the organization managing the building.
If you plan to increase energy consumption, then the project will be taken seriously, because in this case the participation of a specialist will definitely be required.
The project can be ordered from design organization, which has the appropriate license and, as a rule, is also involved in its coordination and implementation.
Resolution No. 883PP dated November 15, 2005, as well as the Housing Code of the Russian Federation, require the following documents to be provided for approval of a redevelopment project:
1) application for reconstruction and (or) redevelopment in the form approved by the Government Russian Federation(written on a form issued by the Housing Inspectorate);
2) title documents for the residential premises being rebuilt and (or) replanned (originals or notarized copies);
3) prepared and executed in in the prescribed manner project for reconstruction and (or) redevelopment of rebuilt and (or) redesigned residential premises;
4) technical certificate rebuilt and (or) redesigned residential premises;
5) consent in writing of all members of the tenant’s family (including temporarily absent members of the tenant’s family) occupying the residential premises being rebuilt and (or) redesigned on the basis of a social tenancy agreement;
6) the conclusion of the body for the protection of architectural, historical and cultural monuments on the admissibility of reconstruction and (or) redevelopment of a residential premises, if such a residential premises or the house in which it is located is an architectural, historical or cultural monument.
Illegal reconstruction threatens with a fine of 1,000 to 2,500 rubles, or a court order and a requirement to restore the premises to their previous form.
According to the current legislation, this package of documents is submitted to the “one window” service of the Housing Inspectorate in order to obtain the final document - “Decision on approval of reconstruction”, which allows the specified repair and construction work to be carried out. At the same time, the organization implementing the project is issued a “Journal of repair and construction work”, which records the entire process of performing the work, and which it is obliged to maintain until the acceptance committee issues the “Certificate of Reconstruction”. This scheme is valid in the case of rearranging plumbing fixtures in the existing dimensions of toilets, bathrooms and kitchens, carried out according to a sketch made by the residents themselves, as well as in the case of installing or moving toilets, bathrooms and kitchens, carried out according to the project.
If the premises are not restored to their previous condition within the time frame and in the manner established by the body carrying out the approval, the social tenancy agreement will be terminated with the tenant and he will be evicted without the provision of new housing. The owner's apartment will be sold at public auction with the proceeds from the sale paid to him minus the costs of executing the court decision.
To summarize, I would like to urge the reader who is planning to make a ditch at his own discretion to be extremely careful.
The project may be expensive, but much more expensive is the confidence in the reliability of your home and in your own safety.
In the end (unfortunately or fortunately), the situation is almost entirely in the hands of the residents, that is, in our hands...
Very often site visitors contact us with a request to answer the question of Is it possible to ditch load-bearing walls? in the apartment. As a rule, the reason for such requests is a ban management company carry out such work.
On the territory of Moscow this question regarding panel houses(houses of mass series) is regulated by Appendix No. 1 to the Decree of the Moscow Government of October 25, 2011 No. 508-PP. Clause 11.12 of the said document clearly indicates that:
When carrying out work on reconstruction and (or) redevelopment of residential and non-residential premises V apartment buildings not allowed: [...] 11.12. Installation of grooves in horizontal seams and under internal wall panels, as well as in wall panels and floor slabs for the placement of electrical wiring and piping (in apartment buildings of standard series).
Appendix No. 1, Moscow Government Decree No. 508 dated October 25, 2011
Previously, a similar provision was provided for in the Regulations for the approval of reconstruction, which was in force until December 1, 2011.
If we're talking about about houses that do not belong to the panel category - built on the basis standard project, groove device (punching grooves) in carrying walls, including monolithic designs, according to general rule forbidden(although there is no direct indication of this in regulations or other building regulations), since such work significantly reduces the load-bearing capacity of structures and creates a threat of collapse. When gating monolithic walls or ceilings, in particular, there is a real danger of destruction of the surface protective layer designed to prevent corrosion of the reinforcement, as well as the danger of violating the integrity of the reinforcement itself, which determines the load-bearing capacity structural element. It should be remembered that in the thickness of walls, reinforcement is usually located at a depth of 30-35 mm, and in ceilings, reinforcement is placed in the lower stretched layer.
In any case, any work on gating load-bearing (monolithic) structures in houses that are not subject to Resolution No. 508-PP must be approved on the basis of a project approved by the architect of the house (received conclusion). In such a case, the author of the project must indicate that the construction of furrows of this kind will not affect the load-bearing capacity. The chances of getting approved are slim. The greatest probability exists when it comes to walls made of brick.
Not allowed: [...] clause 11.4. Violation of the strength and stability of the load-bearing structures of a building, which may lead to their destruction.
Appendix No. 1 to Resolution No. 508-PP
When planning repairs, one should in principle proceed from the fact that, as a general rule, prohibited ditch:
- floors;
- load-bearing walls and other elements that provide structural strength (especially when laying them horizontal furrows).
If gating is impossible, then the laying of communications is carried out in plaster layer, boxes, spaces formed using gypsum plasterboard structures (false walls, suspended ceiling, etc.).
There is currently no reference in the article on this topic.
- Often, during the design of the future arrangement of an apartment, the question arises about the possibility of obtaining permission, for example, in an apartment located in a “monolith-brick” building. The link contains an article on this topic.
- You can find out which works form the content on the page provided with the link.
Notes
No notes found for this article. We regularly edit dictionary entries. It is possible that additional materials will be posted at this location soon.
Chasing walls for electrical installations in a house is a process where you have to both break and build at the same time.
To standard two-room apartment, on average, up to 50 meters of grooves are cut. Moreover, for some reason, many are sure that all furrows are made exclusively for wires or plumbing pipes.
Meanwhile, this work can be well combined with the manufacture of niches for socket boxes.
Drilling or scoring
Drilling niches for socket boxes is one of the most labor-intensive operations when installing all rough electrical equipment.
Often, to make 3 holes for a recessed block of sockets, it takes no less time than to make all the grooves taken together that go to this niche. 
Today there are three main ways to do this work:
The simplest, fastest and most efficient in terms of labor costs is the third option. Why this is so can be explained by several reasons.
- maximum versatility
The wall chaser can handle any material, from foam blocks to high-strength reinforced concrete. Accordingly, impact crowns of the SDS plus type are no longer needed here.
Yes, they cope with foam blocks and bricks, but problems already appear with concrete walls. It takes much more time, plus the hammer drill itself is operated in a more severe mode. In fact, at its limits. 
If it hits the reinforcement, you simply can’t get enough crowns. It’s only in advertising that they cut it like clockwork. 
- delicate attitude to the surface
Let's say you have masonry that was laid just a couple of days ago, then plastered and at first glance everything is dry. But if you hammer it with an SDS max hammer drill, you will see that you will have to call the plasterers again. Or do the work for them yourself. 
Even taking into account the fact that the hammer drill has the ability to work at half strength, this does not guarantee that microcracks will not appear between the blocks at the joints, which will become even wider over time.
When cutting with a wall saw, the wall material does not resist the disc at all, so such damage does not occur here. Moreover, after cutting out a groove or niche, you can use a regular chisel and carefully gouge out everything you need from the inside. 
Again, without using a hammer drill and its blows.
Of course, professionals can make neat holes with a hammer drill in bare, unplastered concrete wall. However, it is correct to do electrical work after plastering, and not before. 
- fittings
The SDS-max hammer drill cannot always pass through and cut through reinforcement. And in this case, don’t even dream about any 60mm recessed socket boxes and installation of wiring without junction boxes. 
True, when doing this work, never forget about such a factor as load-bearing walls. To find out whether it is possible to ditch them and, if so, how exactly, read in more detail at the end of the article.
Diamond blades
A very important thing when cutting grooves and sawing out niches is the quality of the diamond blades. You should never save money here and only buy well-known brands. 
Even if your wall cutter or wall cutter is not Hilti or DeWalt but some other little-known brand, buy only expensive consumables. On cheaper diamond blades, it may not be the material itself that wears off first. diamond sputtering, but simply tear out the seat for the fastening nut. 
If buying a wall saw is an unaffordable luxury for you, but in the meantime you already have a hammer drill and don’t need to buy anything else, then work the old fashioned way. 
For all the secrets of drilling out socket boxes, and ways to avoid breaking crowns when passing through reinforcement, read the link above.
Cable grooving - tool selection
To groove directly under the wiring, there is no need to engage in handicrafts and gouge out curved and oblique slopes and furrows with a spatula or chisel. 
Today, there is already a rich assortment of wall chasers that are relatively affordable in price and quality, as well as cheap attachments for chasing on a regular angle grinder. 
You can easily purchase them, even if you need them to renovate just one apartment. With their ridiculous price, you won’t feel any increase in your budget. 
The cutting speed at which these attachments work will pleasantly surprise you. And again, with high-quality discs, the material of the walls will not play a dominant role. 
When choosing wall chasers and attachments, it is especially worth paying attention to the possibility of sawing corners at 90 degrees. And all this should be done without dust. 
Any comfortable gating is impossible without dust removal. Of course professional construction vacuum cleaner To renovate one apartment or house, few people will buy it. 
In this case, take care of at least minimal dust collection devices or convert an ordinary vacuum cleaner to serve the functions of a construction vacuum cleaner.
By the way, the Air Duster nozzle freely throws out all the waste during gating, even without a vacuum cleaner. True, a protective mask in this case will be a mandatory attribute of your work. 
It is a mask, not just glasses and a respirator. Our Chinese comrades offer a very high-quality model. 
Its price is several times lower than professional masks from ZM, and the build quality is at the same level. Read the reviews.
You can find out the latest current price and order a similar mask from here.
Grilling technique and work procedure
Let's move on directly to the gating process. The order of work is as follows.
After marking, first use a wall cutter to make holes and niches for the socket boxes, and then the grooves themselves.
The technique for cutting niches is simple. Take the machine and first apply the edge that is closest to the dust extraction to the wall. 
After the disk is completely buried, there will be no dust at all. Of course, if you have a vacuum cleaner. 
Do not forget that gating is an operation always associated with a great risk to your health. Therefore, the use of minimal means personal protection Necessarily. Even if you only need to walk a few centimeters. 
After cutting the strips, use a chisel to knock out the resulting squares by hand. In order to do this without a hammer drill and chisel, the cubes must be relatively small in size.
Therefore, in addition to the perimeter of the niche, with a double block of socket boxes, also run the wall cutter disc through the center. And with a triple block or more, several such incisions are made. 
But in any case, it is still several times faster than drilling with a crown. She will be the best option only in soft walls- gas block, foam concrete.
The only advice is to use it larger diameter than the socket itself. When you plant it on the mortar, you will need a good gap between the socket and the wall. Only in this case will the solution or plaster hold the box well and securely.
And when installing sockets, there will be no problems with them falling out or being pulled out when using even a non-standard plug. 
Distances, depth, groove width
What nuances should you pay attention to when cutting walls for cables? Firstly, this minimum distances and indents. Here, adhere to the following recommendations and rules:
- max groove depth - 25mm
- when installing one cable without corrugation, a width of up to 5 mm is sufficient
- when using corrugation - 20-25mm
Also pay attention to the location of the furrow relative to the socket box. It shouldn't go straight down the middle.
Always orient it closer to the edges. Moreover, left or right also plays a role. 
If the future socket or switch is located close to the doorway, then it would be more correct to draw the groove exactly to the far edge from the door. Otherwise, when installing doors, installers will damage the cable with a long dowel when drilling. 
They are also often used when gating laser level. Firstly, it makes work easier and faster. And secondly, the cable will be laid perfectly straight.
In the future, when you drill a screw into the wall for a picture, you will know exactly how many millimeters away from the outlet you have a cable under the plaster. 
You won’t need to use all sorts of fancy devices and fancy wall scanners to detect wires under plaster. 
The correct cutting direction is top to bottom. You will be less tired, and gravity, on the contrary, will be an assistant when working. 
It is enough to attach the wall chaser to the wall, and then high-quality discs and the force of gravity of the earth will do most of the work for you.
Is it prohibited to tap into a load-bearing wall?
Most main question which worries everyone - is it possible to cut and groove load-bearing walls. And what do SNiP and GOSTs say about this?
Although it was signed for Moscow, its recommendations are followed in other regions. Specifically, clause 11.11 says: “It is prohibited to make grooves in HORIZONTAL seams and under internal wall panels. It is also prohibited to make grooves in wall panels and floor slabs.”
It turns out that it is impossible to cut grooves in the ceiling in any direction. 
There, use only external cable fastening using clips and corrugations. 
In monolithic panels, it is possible to cut grooves only in the plaster layer, without going deep into the wall itself and without weakening its surface. As for other load-bearing walls, only vertical grooves are allowed there, but even then the integrity of the reinforcement inside must not be violated. 
This is why electricians say that the plaster should always go before the electrics, and not vice versa.
You thereby get the necessary head start, a couple of extra centimeters of the plaster layer. And when cutting a furrow or drilling out a socket box, you simply won’t reach the fittings. 
Just imagine that in the load-bearing wall in the photo below, you will cut a niche for recessed socket boxes 6 cm inward! And the same amount on the back side in another room. 
What if your neighbors below and above do the same? How long will your high-rise building last and who will be to blame if one day it collapses like a house of cards?
Of course, this is the most extreme and unlikely case. However, most often such houses, after 10-15 years of operation, are considered unsafe.
What to do if you can’t do without socket boxes in a monolithic wall? In this case, place drywall there and mount the socket box in plasterboard wall without disturbing the monolith. 
As for panel houses, where virtually all walls are load-bearing, then in them standard option is the use of factory voids in slabs. Otherwise, you will have to run the electrician along the ceiling (on clips) or along the floor (in a screed). 
Chasing monolithic walls is a special issue. The installation of grooves in the walls, floor and ceiling is carried out for the installation of communications: electrical wiring, pipelines, etc.
As a result of a rather complex process, long grooves of varying depths are formed on the plane, depending on the communications being carried out and the possibility of the walls.
1. Lurking danger
A crack in monolithic walls can pose a direct danger to the structural part of the building. Feature monolithic construction is that all monolithic walls of the building participate in uniform design and are load-bearing. All of them are connected to each other by a reinforcement cage and concrete mixture. With such components, any violation of integrity is especially dangerous.
Improperly executed fines cause the destruction of the wall, and this weakens the structure of the entire building. IN short term such defects will most likely go unnoticed, but if they occur emergency situations their consequences can be disastrous.
Therefore, you should refrain from such work. However, if a balanced and well-founded decision on gating has been made, and the appropriate permits have been obtained, only specialized organizations need to be engaged to carry out this work.
In order not to make a mistake in your choice, you should definitely check whether the company has the appropriate permit (license) to carry out these works, make sure that necessary equipment and worker qualifications.
It is definitely worth remembering that the penalty in monolithic floors(floor and ceiling) is strictly prohibited.
2. Cleaning the ceiling or what to do if you need to move chandeliers
Often the wiring installed during the construction of a building does not meet the desires and needs of the occupants of the apartment or office. For example, you need to install additional lighting, or change their location on the ceiling.
The simplest, but not very aesthetic option is to run the cables over existing ceiling in special channels - cable glands. If appearance plays for the owner of the premises important role, then it is best to abandon this method.
The next option is to lay the cables outside and hide them by plastering the ceiling. It's painstaking enough hard work for master finishers and a very expensive pleasure for the owners of the premises.
The third way is to hide the cables under a plasterboard ceiling, or under another form suspended ceiling. Here the work will not be so long and “dirty”, but you won’t be able to save money.
Fourth option - stretch ceiling. Thanks to advances in the modern construction industry, it has become possible to quickly (from a few hours), with virtually no noise and debris, not only hide communication wiring, but also get a beautiful and even ceiling. Its cost, as a rule, does not exceed the summed costs of installing any of the above methods to disrupt wiring. Moreover, during operation you will not have to spend money, time and effort on cosmetic repairs.
3. What to do with walls
For the production of fines in the walls, the rules are not so categorical. Subject to permission and necessarily competent specialists equipped with the necessary production facilities, in compliance with all precautions and building codes these works can be carried out.
The stripping of monolithic walls is carried out in compliance with the following conditions:
- grooves are laid exclusively horizontally and vertically, strictly according to the level;
- scratching the wall diagonally is strictly prohibited;
- indentation from load-bearing structure ceiling for horizontal fines - 150 mm, 300 mm, 450 mm and so on;
- for grooves having a vertical direction, indentation from corners, window and doorways- from 100 mm;
- the distance from existing or proposed gas pipes according to the project should not be less than 400 mm.
In addition, the dimensions of the grooves and their trajectory must be observed. On walls up to 80 cm thick, a groove for wiring is arranged along the shortest path, observing the principle of horizontal and vertical. If the thickness of the wall exceeds this indicator, then the fine is carried out along the construction lines.
Limit sizes of fines:
- length - 3 thousand mm;
- depth - 25 mm;
- width - 250 mm.
A complete list of mandatory conditions is contained in the relevant SNiP. The specialized companies are well aware of all the norms and rules provided for by them, strictly observe them, which ensures safety during the work and further operation of the building.