The construction of a foundation is not limited to laying its underground part. The upper part of the foundation - the base - is built above the ground to a height of 50-70 cm.
They call it the base top part foundation protruding above the vertical planning level (Fig. 1.)
Rice. 1. Plinths: 1 - wall structure; 2 - brick base; 3 - waterproofing from two layers of roofing felt or lining roofing material; 4 - second waterproofing along the foundation or in the body of the base; 5 - ceramic tile on cement-sand mortar; 6 - blind area; 7 - facing frieze stone; 8 - mesh 150 x 150 x 4 cm, tied to the outlets of the reinforcement; 9 - facing tiles made of natural stone; 10 - hard cement mortar; 11 - reinforcement outlets embedded in the masonry; 12 - concrete pad; 13 - foundation concrete blocks; 14 - foundation (made of prefabricated blocks, rubble masonry, rubble, etc.); 15 - facing brick; 16 - plaster; 17 - reinforcement mesh; 18 - air vent; 19 - insulation |
The base is not only a support for the walls, but also takes on the function of protecting it from natural influences: in winter it is covered with snow, in spring it is undermined by melt water, in summer and autumn it rains. Therefore, the strength and resistance of the base to unfavorable natural conditions should be its mandatory characteristics. Structurally, the base is practically no different from the foundation, but it appearance must correspond to the general architectural solution Houses. To do this, the outer part of the base is plastered, lined with natural or artificial stone or tiles. In the simplest finishing option, the base is rubbed down cement mortar and paint. The upper part of the base must be strictly horizontal.
The height of the base may vary depending on the topography of the site. But in any case, the height of the base should not be less than 50 cm above the planning level. A house with a low base seems squat and loses in architectural terms.
Socles are made from solid brick frost resistance grade 50 Mrz using solid masonry or concrete foundation blocks .
Waterproofing the basement of a house
Two waterproofing layers are placed on the base, each consisting of two layers of roofing felt on bitumen mastic. The first waterproofing is installed at a height of 20 cm from the level of the blind area, the second - along the top of the base. The purpose of waterproofing is to cut off the migration of moisture into the walls due to capillary suction of water from the ground and moistening the walls from melting snow and rain splashes (Fig. 1.). Previously, one waterproofing was installed at the level of the top of the plinth. Such waterproofing cut off the leakage of water into the walls, but the base itself was in a moistened state. As a result, the moisture accumulating in the capillaries of the base material increased in volume during winter freezing and ruptured the capillaries.
The process, repeated year after year, destroyed the material of the houses' basements. Therefore, they began to use double waterproofing of the base. To protect the base from atmospheric moisture, they are lined with brick, natural stone slabs or ceramic tiles.
Construction of the basement. Pickup
The most successful constructive solution The plinth is rubble masonry with simultaneous brick lining.
The basement superstructure over the strip foundation is made the same width as the foundation itself. Base columnar foundation(it is called a fence or fence wall) it is never thick: if it is brick, then the masonry is made of brick or half a brick; if rubble, then no more than 30 cm wide. If the soil at the construction site is rocky, sandy or gravel, then the fences are laid from ground level; if the soil is clayey, then bury the holes 20-30 cm into the ground, and underneath them make a sand cushion another 20-30 cm thick. Level the upper plane of the base (as well as the upper plane of the foundation) using a building level.
And one more thing that you should not forget about when building a basement - natural ventilation a closed space limited by basement walls, floor and ground. For free circulation of air in this space, ventilation windows (vents) measuring approximately 15 x 15 cm should be left in the basement on each side of the house at a height of 15-20 cm from the ground. To protect the underground space from rodents, the vents must be covered with gratings, and in the winter they should be filled with wooden plugs.
Laying the plinth with bricks
When constructing foundations, the base is laid out of red solid clay brick of a grade of at least 75 or face brick with jointing. For brickwork you can use a solution of composition 1: 0.3: 4 (cement: lime or clay: sand, by volume) - for foundations in low-moisture and wet soils; composition 1: 0: 3 - for foundations located in water-saturated soils.
Brickwork is done in horizontal rows, laying the brick flat (on the bed). Each brick of the top row should lie between two or more bricks of the bottom row, covering their joints. The order of laying bricks relative to each other, ensuring that their joints overlap, is called ligation. The simplest is single-row, or chain ligation, when rows of bricks across the wall (bonded) alternate with rows along the wall (lay). In this case, the transverse seams in adjacent rows are shifted by a quarter of a brick, and the longitudinal seams by half a brick (Fig. 2).
Mortar joints between bricks should be within 10-15 mm. The thickness of horizontal joints of brickwork should be 12 mm, vertical joints - 10 mm.
When plastering walls and foundation plinths, the seams should not be filled with mortar to a depth of 10-15 mm for better adhesion of the mortar to the surface when plastering it.
In order for the masonry to be of high quality, in the corners of the foundation installed poles from logs with a diameter of 10-12 cm, wooden slats are attached, marked in height every 77 mm (brick thickness 65 mm plus joint thickness 12 mm). The top of the first row is secured with a mooring cord. Using the cord, check the horizontal position of the row. As the rows are laid, the cord must be moved upward. (Fig. 3.)
If this technology for laying a plinth turns out to be difficult to implement, then instead of a mooring cord, you can use formwork panels, or edged boards. They are supported on order slats and intermediate bars driven into the ground. Lines are drawn on the board to define the top of the row of bricks to be laid.
The laying begins from the corner and gradually moves to the left of the laid part of the plinth row. The trowel for applying the solution should be in right hand. With your left hand, remove the brick from the stack and place it on the mortar. Part of the mortar is pushed with a trowel onto the side edge or end of the previously laid brick, then the brick is pressed with the left hand, and with light blows of the trowel handle, press it in so that the top edge coincides with the horizontal line drawn on the board, or is in line with the mooring cord. When laying external versts, the mooring cord is pulled for each row at the level of the top of the laid row with a distance of 3-4 mm from the vertical plane. Usually the mooring cord is tied to nails secured in the joints of the masonry. To check the horizontal and verticality of the masonry, use a building level 500-700 mm long.
To control the quality of the masonry, after fixing the orders, beacons are laid out on them in the form of a shelter penalty or intermediate orders are installed (every 3 - 4 m). Part of the mortar into which the brick is pressed sometimes protrudes beyond the plane of the foundation base. It must be immediately removed with a trowel, put back in the box (bucket) and mixed with the solution located there.
Base for logs, paving stones and frame walls usually made in one or 1 1/2 bricks (i.e., 250 and 380 mm wide).
Find projects online one-story houses with a basement floor it is extremely difficult; most often, they have to be ordered. The ground floor, or simply put, the basement, is a special room that no high-rise building can do without.
Another thing is a cottage or a private house, designed to accommodate one family. Of course, extra square meters will not hurt anyone, especially since in the basement our man, out of habit, stores everything that Mother Nature gave him on his six hundred square meters. Potatoes, all kinds of pickles and preserves, and basically everything are dumped there.
Everything that doesn’t fit in the house is thrown there. Perhaps someday old holey galoshes will come in handy, from which you can make so many useful things, it is not yet clear what and how much, but it is clear that there is a lot. It is clear that not a single developer in his right mind and with a strong memory will waste time and money on cottage with the ground floor, hoping to use it in this way.
Usually, when setting the goal of building a house with a ground floor, a person thinks that on this very floor he will keep his car or, for example, create a workshop that he has always dreamed of and never got around to.
In general, in order to take on the task of creating a base, you need to have a clear idea of why it is needed. Not every potential homeowner is capable of just taking the plunge and making a basement under the house. To decide on this you need, at a minimum, to have free money.
Just dig a pit
There are three types of basements: recessed, projecting and at foundation level. To build a recessed type basement, the ground on which it will be built must be dry. Work begins with digging a pit, the area of which must be determined in advance.
The depth of the pit should in no case be lower than or at the level groundwater. In general, the depth of the recessed plinth should be approximately one meter above their level.
And it is different in each area, and is determined by the water level in the wells in the hot summer. At the same time of year, you need to start building the basement floor in a private house.
Arrangement of the drainage system
The most important element of a house in which this structure is present is the drainage system. The fate of not only the basement, but the entire house depends on how it functions. Since the floor is the basement and is located below ground level, water will be present there by definition.
The drainage system is quite simple to make. After the pit is dug, it is completely cleared of debris, its bottom is leveled and compacted. Somewhere in the corner of the pit a hole is being dug. It is inserted into metal barrel, the edges of which should be flush with the floor of the future basement.
In order to ensure that the bottom of the pit is as level as possible, it is covered with a layer of fine sand, its thickness should be at least 15 centimeters and no more than 20. After which the sand is leveled again and waterproofing material is laid on its surface.
Reinforcing mesh is laid over the waterproofing and poured with concrete. At the same time, there should be no gaps between the edges of the drainage barrel and the floor, so that water does not subsequently flow into them. A drainage pump is installed in the barrel. The drainage system can be considered ready.
Installation of plinth walls
Now, when water somehow gets into the basement, it will drain into the drainage tank and be pumped out with a pump. To prevent the walls of the pit from crumbling, they are reinforced with formwork.
Then the walls of the basement are erected. Typically, they are made from bricks or building blocks. A sand-cement mixture is used as a binding solution.
After the walls of the basement are laid out, all that remains is to make the upper floor. One or more concrete slabs. Their use for this purpose is preferable because they are highly durable.
Ventilation
In order for the cellar to be suitable for storing food, it must have reliable ventilation, otherwise the basement will become a habitat for mold, and storing food in it is out of the question. To prevent this from happening, ventilation in a deep basement should be arranged as follows.
On both sides of the cellar, opposite each other, two vertical pipes(supply and exhaust), they can be either metal or plastic. The purpose of the supply pipe is to draw air from outside into the basement, while exhaust pipe designed to extract air from the basement room.
The lower end of the supply pipe is located at a height of approximately twenty centimeters from the floor, while the exhaust pipe, the lower end of which is located at a distance of thirty centimeters from the ceiling, is located at opposite side, draws air out of the room. A system consisting of these two pipes ensures constant air circulation in the base.
Generally speaking, if the main purpose of your basement is to be a large refrigerator, then your basement can be considered almost complete. All that remains is to make shelves so that all your jars of cucumbers and tomatoes, as well as buckets of sauerkraut fit without problems.
Garage in the basement
Many house designs with a basement are created with the purpose of placing a garage there. They are considered much more complex structures than a basement adapted for storage. First of all, it must be located at a depth of at least two meters, width at least four, and length at least six meters.
Of course, all these dimensions are taken with a large margin, but if you consider that in the garage, besides the car, a lot of other things are stored, then this margin will not be so large.
Unlike a basement for food storage, a garage must be a heated room. Moreover, the temperature in it should not differ much from the temperature inside the house, since if such a large room as a garage is not heated properly, then, being directly under living rooms, it will inevitably cool down housing. In this case, heating costs will inevitably increase.
If to illuminate a food warehouse you only need one light bulb without a shade or lampshade, then the garage will need full lighting.
If in order to get into the basement, with the food stored in it it will be enough to use ladder, then you will need a strong ramp to exit the garage.
Other premises
Even more serious costs will be required to adapt the basement floor into a full-fledged living space or, for example, to equip it with a bowling alley or gym.
Looking at the photo of a house with a ground floor, it is easy to notice that the illumination of the premises is quite intense, at least to the extent that it fully complies with sanitary standards.
The air temperature in it should not be lower than the temperature in the house. Since the base is located practically in the ground, maintaining a comfortable microclimate in it will cost a pretty penny. In general, the ground floor can be used for the needs of the family, both as a utility room and as a main one.
Often in private houses a basement is created. It is first or ground floor. Although, in fact, this is a basement. Work on it must be carried out in strict compliance with certain criteria. By law there is specific criteria (from 2.5 to 3 meters). They touch the height of this space.
There are also taxes on the area built for living. This question interests everyone who is planning their home.
The disadvantages of a basement are the enormous costs, from digging holes to electrical wiring. The estimated cost is calculated after a geological and engineering study: the type of soil, level groundwater. There are situations when these factors categorically do not allow creating a basement floor - its construction and maintenance will be unreasonably expensive.
Tasks of basement premises
Basement rooms in private buildings need good drainage, powerful and insulation. Simply forming a continuation of the foundation is not enough. By neglecting the rules of waterproofing and using low-quality materials in your work, you seriously increase the risk of drowning.
Important! Work should be carried out only by highly qualified specialists.
Usually windows in plinths are not suitable, it is almost impossible. Exceptions are in the photo below. But even if there are windows, full natural light It doesn't work here. Therefore, such premises are not considered residential. Here, as a rule, they organize: sports facilities, domestic cinemas, saunas, etc. The issue of ventilation in the basement is especially relevant when building Gym. It is necessary to install pressure sewerage here if saunas and showers are created.
Usually, a plan to create a basement appears when it is not possible to create all the intended rooms in the house or their area is small for some of the owner’s ideas. Also, the need for a base is determined by when the site has a slope with a significant difference in height. But with proper construction, good savings can be achieved and the pace of work can be increased.
How to arrange this? First of all, chase the number of residential square meters useless. It is better to choose small premises (the result can be up to 3 floors). But there should also be ideas about the purpose of the plinth. What is going to be there? A playroom, a warehouse-cellar, a recreation room or a place for other activities? Let's say building a storage room or shed separately, or attaching it to the house, is much cheaper. The basement or basement will definitely need to be heated, not every year, but still most owners of the basement are forced to take measures against increased dampness.
To correct a local natural disaster at the very bottom of the pit, it is advisable to look at this material:
Types of socles
- Buried. This is the most common type. It has very strong resistance to moisture. Water quickly leaves such a base.
- Speaker. It is usually arranged when wall structures the houses are quite thin.
- On the same level as the foundation. Not the most rational option, because it has poor resistance to moisture and at the same time it becomes the beginning of the wall. We have to seriously strengthen the water protection, and this is an additional expense. Also, with this option, there is no way to improve the appearance of the building.
Base materials
The base continues the foundation. And the material used for it is similar. It is rare to use the materials that were used to create wall structures.
The most popular options for materials for the base:
- Already created blocks.
- Bricks.
- Monolithic concrete.
Whatever option you prefer, work always starts from calculations. Particular care is required calculate wall thickness. Concrete screeds and slabs usually form the floor. The base can be created from already formed reinforced concrete slabs. Wood materials are used for cladding.
If the base is much higher than the ground level, then there, in the upper part, entire windows and doors are made. They should not go north. Thus, frames can become deformed due to significant accumulations of snow. 
The initial stage of facing is the creation stairs in the basement. The most commonly created options are:
- Classical march. It is arranged only if the area is sufficient for this.
- Screw. It is created when the conditions of the base do not allow the first option to be arranged.
Water protection
For the base you need to do double-sided waterproofing. It is not necessary to isolate components that are concentrated above ground level.
The most powerful protection is provided only if the base is based on a concrete monolith. Again, the work must be carried out very efficiently, otherwise the slab will not adhere well to the walls under the influence of moisture. Do not forget about the standards for the height of the plinth - 250 cm. For this, a foundation pit of the appropriate depth is formed.
Creating projects
As already noted, it is very important to determine the required wall thickness. The type of soil, the location of the building, and the type and behavior of the soil are taken into account. If the soil is reliable, then the thickness of the basement walls can match the other walls of the house. If there are problems with the soil, their thickness increases by 20-30 cm.
If the building is built of wood, then the base can be created from concrete blocks.
The project must also reflect the position of groundwater. Since there is a requirement for the depth of the pit, it should not reach their level. The soil is studied in advance and the depth of these waters is determined.
For your information! A permit, or rather an update of the document, is needed if you initially submitted papers for individual housing construction without a base, but after some time you changed your mind in favor of the ground floor. And according to the law, if the area changes by 17% or more, documents must be submitted to the HOA for approval.
Pricing issues
They are determined by the following factors:
- Region of your residence (climate, soil, soil, etc.)
- Prices of materials in your region.
- Cost of services of specialists and workers.
- Conceived parameters of the plinth and foundation.
Example 1. Base parameters: 10x10. The foundation is strip. Its depth is 240 cm, width – 30 cm, elevation above the ground: 60 cm.
The following materials are involved here:
- Land sampling – 360 cubic meters. m. = 360 thousand rubles.
- Corrugated reinforcement, cross-section 0.14 cm. 5700 m involved. Cost about 205,150 rubles.
- Concrete. Expenses: 265,900 rub.
- Formwork, 10 cubic meters. Expenses: 62,000 rub.
- Water protection. Bitumen mastic. She demanded 60,000 rubles. This is the inner layer. The outer layer of roofing felt costs about 60,000 rubles.
- Insulation. Expanded polystyrene. One slab is 10 cm thick, 58 cm wide, and 26 cm long. 10 slabs are needed. Costs are about 32,000 -35,000 rubles.
- Materials for the layer (crushed stone and sand) + nails. Expenses: 42,000 rub.
Tools:
- For calculations: tape measure, pencil, level.
- For masonry: trowel, pick.
- Others: shovel, hammer, plumb line.
Their total cost is within 30,000 rubles.
Workers' services here will cost about 130 -140 thousand rubles. This includes their fee and expenses for accommodation and food.
If you carry out the work yourself, then other numbers appear here. Digging the necessary pit and filling it will cost approximately 50,000 rubles.
Example 2. The parameters of the plinth are 8 x 8 m. The walls are made of FBS blocks. The foundation is slab, monolith.
Materials:
- Waterproofing, roofing material.
- Insulation. Penoplex. Thickness – 5 cm.
- Change house. Parameters 2.5x5 m.
The list of tools is almost the same. There will also be costs for work, equipment rental, and delivery of materials.
The total price of all of the above is about 1,000,000 rubles.
Of this amount, approximately 64% is spent on the purchase of materials, 7% on their delivery, 3% on tools, 14% on work, 7% on equipment rental, and 5% on change rooms.
When a basement is built in a location where groundwater is high, costs increase significantly. We will have to build a very strong foundation. Usually in such cases a pile foundation and a plinth on it are created. The costs indicated in the first example may increase by approximately 1.5 - 2 times.
Of course, you can save money on the construction of the basement. The main thing is to do this without compromising quality. It is especially not worth saving on concrete and waterproofing, as well as insulation. It is better to create a base with smaller parameters, but reliable and with a powerful base.
Also, do not skimp on high-class workers. If you yourself are not able to carry out high-quality work or you do not have time, then it is better to entrust this matter to specialists with the characteristics. Today it is quite popular to order a turnkey base. The price range here is very wide. Much depends on the parameters of the planned base, geological factors, prices of materials and services of a particular company. Below are some examples of turnkey plinths, taking into account different parameters and factors.
| № | Type of work | Footage | Price, rub.) | Amount (rub.) | |
| Works: | |||||
| 1 | Extracting axes | 100 m 2 | 40 | 4000 | |
| 2 | Excavation work (soil is not removed) | 252 m 3 | 329 | 82908 | |
| 3 | Creation of a separation layer (geotextile is used) | 210 m2 | 20 | 4200 | |
| 4 | Creating a sand cushion. Its compaction using a vibrating plate | 36 m 3 | 529 | 19044 | |
| 5 | Creating a pillow from crushed stone. Its compaction using a vibrating plate | 18 m 3 | 529 | 9522 | |
| Cumulative: | 119674 rub. | ||||
| Foundation slab: | |||||
| 1 | Laying a waterproof membrane | 112 m2 | 30 | 3360 | |
| 2 | Work with formwork (installation, removal) | 40 m.p. | 300 | 12000 | |
| 3 | 2.12 t. | 15000 | 31800 | ||
| 4 | Vibrating concrete placement | 21 m 3 | 1500 | 31500 | |
| Cumulative: | 78660 rub. | ||||
| Basement walls: | |||||
| 1 | Eliminating axes | 100 m 2 | 40 | 4000 | |
| 2 | Work with formwork | 125 m2. | 300 | 37500 | |
| 3 | Creation and installation of reinforcement network | 2.69 t. | 21000 | 56490 | |
| 4 | 26.25 m 3 | 1500 | 39375 | ||
| Cumulative: | 137365 rub. | ||||
| Base covering: | |||||
| 1 | Work with formwork | 100 m2 | 320 | 32000 | |
| 2 | Creation and installation of reinforcement network | 2.12 t. | 15000 | 31800 | |
| 3 | Laying concrete. Its compaction using a vibrating tool. | 17 m 3 | 1500 | 25500 | |
| Cumulative: | 89300 rub. | ||||
| Cumulative: | RUB 424,999 | ||||
| Materials: | |||||
| 1 | Waterproof strip Megaizol GEO PRO 150 | 231 m2 | 40 | 9240 | |
| 2 | Sand. Sizes: medium and large. | 36 m 3 | 700 | 25200 | |
| 3 | Granite crushed stone (fraction range 20-40) | 18 m 3 | 1350 | 24300 | |
| Cumulative: | 58740 rub. | ||||
| For base plate: | |||||
| 1 | Geomembrane "Planter" | 123.2 m2 | 90 | 11088 | |
| 2 | Board 4 x 15 x 600 cm. 1-3 grades are used. | 1.22 m 3 | 8500 | 10370 | |
| 3 | Supports for reinforcement elements | 400 pcs. | 5 | 2000 | |
| 4 | Fittings, type d12 A500 | 2.05 t. | 33000 | 67693 | |
| 5 | Fittings, type d8 A500 | 0.06 t. | 33000 | 2139 | |
| 6 | Wire. Knitting type. | 19.08 kg | 360 | 6869 | |
| 7 | Concrete B22.5 | 21 m 3 | 3900 | 81900 | |
| Cumulative: | 182059 rub. | ||||
| For walls: | |||||
| 1 | Fittings, type d12 A500 | 2.69 t. | 33000 | 88770 | |
| 2 | Wire. Knitting type. | 24.21 kg | 360 | 8716 | |
| 3 | Vertical reinforcement clamp | 625 pcs. | 4 | 2500 | |
| 5 | Formwork. According to inventory. | 250 m2 | 580 | 145000 | |
| 6 | Concrete class B22.5 | 26.25 m 3 | 3900 | 102375 | |
| Cumulative: | RUB 347,361 | ||||
| For floor slab: | |||||
| 1 | Fittings d12 A500 | 2.05 t. | 33000 | 67693 | |
| 2 | Fittings d8 A500 | 0.06 t. | 33000 | 1980 | |
| 3 | Wire. Knitting type. | 19.08 kg | 360 | 6869 | |
| 4 | Chairs for reinforcement elements. | 500 pcs. | 5 | 2500 | |
| 5 | Formwork. Inventory view. | 100 m.p. | 280 | 28000 | |
| 6 | Concrete B22.5 | 17 m 3 | 3900 | 66300 | |
| Cumulative: | 173342 rub. | ||||
| Delivery: | |||||
| 1 | Formwork. According to inventory. | — | — | 14600 | |
| 2 | Materials | — | — | 15000 | |
| 3 | Tools | — | — | 1800 | |
| Cumulative: | 31400 rub. | ||||
| Total for materials: | RUB 792,902 | ||||
| Equipment: | |||||
| Concrete pump | 3 shifts | 14400 | 0 | ||
| Residential trailer | 13 shifts | 1000 | 0 | ||
| Conducting electricity to the work site | 13 shifts | 1000 | 0 | ||
| Overhead 2%: | RUB 24,359 | ||||
| TOTAL: | 1242260 rub. | ||||
Table. Calculations based on data in central regions
| Material. Parameter type | Meaning. |
| Foundation slab (PF). Square | 100 sq.m |
| PF perimeter | 40 shoulder straps m. |
| PF thickness | 20 cm |
| Sand pillow. | 15 cm |
| Crushed stone pillow. Thickness. | 10 cm. |
| Laying the foundation. Average depth | 150 cm. |
| Basement walls. Length. | 50 shoulder straps m |
| Basement walls. Thickness. | 20 cm. |
| Base height. | 250 cm |
| Total area of openings | 0 sq.m. |
| Floor slab (PP). Square | 100 sq.m. |
| PP perimeter | 40 shoulder straps m |
| PP thickness | 16 cm |
| Distance from the Ring Road: | 10 km. |
| Total price of a turnkey base: | 1242260 rub. |
Should I do it or not? What they say on the forums
The most often advised is the following:
- If you have free funds, then you can realize your plans. If there is a lack of money in the process, you can postpone finishing work exactly on the base indefinitely.
- As a rule, a basement is always planned on expensive and small plots in order to increase space.
Identified disadvantages during the construction process:
- The price of building a foundation with a basement or ground floor increases by 35-40%. This is significant money, especially if there is no foreseeable need for space.
- Sometimes they forget about insulation and waterproofing, but the sprinkling has already been done. It is necessary to re-prepare the external trenches, attach polystyrene foam or come up with something new with waterproofing.
A selection of arguments for
One of the most popular videos on the topic. The author is distinguished by both academic and worldly savvy, judging by the level of elaboration of the topic. In addition, the author is obviously a supporter of the construction of a basement floor and quite convincingly proves the practicality of its arrangement.
The height of the base is one of the parameters that have great value when building a house. This is the lower part of the building, erected on a foundation and performing important functions related to retaining heat indoors. The plinth is necessary in order to protect the walls from the effects of groundwater; it prevents the formation of fungus and mold on the walls, increases the resistance of the structure low temperatures. Thanks to the presence of the base, the heat exchange between the interior and the street increases.
In order for this part of the house to meet all the requirements and contribute to the solution of the assigned tasks, it is necessary during construction not only to choose high-quality and reliable material, but also take into account the height of the basement being built.
How to determine the height of the plinth
One of the types of base is recessed Efficiency protective functions, which the base of the house performs, directly depends on its height and type:
- The protruding base requires additional finishing and the construction of a canopy that protects the structure from precipitation and moisture accumulation. It becomes a decoration of the facade of any building.
- The sinking one is the most durable. In this option, the junction of the base and the walls of the house is completely protected from moisture, which guarantees increased safety of the foundation and protection of the waterproofing layer. When constructing this type, there is no need to construct mandatory water outlets.
- Level with the wall. The least popular type of base. It requires the construction of a canopy, and when additional finishing is carried out it becomes protruding.
The choice of the height of the basement being built is influenced by the type of foundation, the depth of groundwater, and climatic conditions in the area where construction is taking place. In addition, it is important to have a basement floor ( basement).
When starting work on the construction of a basement, it is worth considering that the higher it is, the less likely it is that interior spaces may be damaged by moisture penetration. Construction begins directly from the foundation of the house, and at the joints with the walls of the building it is required proper organization waterproofing, preventing possible penetration of moisture through the capillaries of the porous material into the walls of the building.
The base is flush with the wall The impact on the base is comprehensive, since it can withstand constant load from the side of the walls. And in cases where the house does not have a basement and the floor is located on the ground, the base is also subject to the pressure of the earth buried inside the entire perimeter of the house.
If, in order to determine the width of the future basement, it is necessary to accurately determine the choice of material from which the walls of the house will be built, and its type depends on the quality of the foundation, then the height will depend on the presence of a basement, temperature regime, weather conditions and the amount of natural precipitation characteristic of the area where construction is taking place. These parameters vary greatly in different areas, so there are no strict guidelines for determining the height of the plinth.
Minimum height
The construction of the base begins directly from the foundation, and it is raised to a height of at least 40 centimeters. It is believed that this is the minimum height of the base of the house.
High base of the house This height is optimal in the presence of a strip foundation, although a base of this height is erected on another basis, based on the average per decade level of snow falling annually in a given area. A basement of this height is erected only in cases where the house does not have a basement.
In some areas, the height of the base of the house is lower than this indicator. In particularly arid zones, the construction of a brick structure is allowed to a height of only 20 centimeters. But even here there is a risk of excessive moisture in the walls of the house when ordinary rainwater gets on them. In most cases, a properly constructed blind area can change the situation. Although, with a low height of the base, as well as with improper construction of the foundation, the walls of the house may suffer from capillary wetting of the walls with groundwater. This will lead to destruction of the material from the inside and a significant reduction in the life of the building.
Standard height
Standard height plinth The basement floor requires a significant increase in the height of the base itself. Now to the main functions that it is designed to perform this design, we also add the provision of installation in the technical room engineering systems, which include pumps or valves. In some cases, when choosing the height of the base, they are guided by the height of the ceilings of the basement.
The features of the construction of the foundation of the house remain important. If the foundation level coincides with the ground level, then the height of the base cannot be less than 70 centimeters, and sometimes it reaches one meter. Standard height, during construction country house reaches 50 or 70 centimeters. It is this value that is considered optimal for most areas with a variety of climatic conditions and different depths of groundwater.
So, to determine the height of the base when building a country house, you need to take into account:
- depth of groundwater;
- amount of precipitation;
- presence of a basement;
- need for organization technical room in the basement;
- view of the furnished foundation of the house.
Features of waterproofing and insulation at different heights
Efficiency strip base will be reduced to zero if there are no ventilation ducts. These are holes, the distance between which should not exceed 3 meters. They are installed around the entire perimeter, ensuring high-quality air circulation. Internal walls and partitions are no exception. These holes can only be closed ventilation grilles. In the video you will see how to properly insulate and waterproof the basement of a house.
The use of any plugs is strictly prohibited, since the humidity present in the basement space leads to the formation of mold and mildew. When building a brick plinth, to organize ventilation ducts, it is enough to leave gaps in the masonry; in other options, pipes are used that are fixed between the blocks. The jumpers can be sheet steel or ordinary reinforcement.
Reliable protection of the base from groundwater is provided by waterproofing material. It may be roofing material or another type roll waterproofing, such as:
- glass ruberoid;
- rubemast;
- euroruberoid.
Lay it in two layers directly on the foundation, applying bitumen mastic or heated bitumen. Between layers of waterproofing material a layer is applied adhesive composition providing a strong connection.
- Why does a house need a basement?
- Basement of a house with double-layer walls.
- Features of basement waterproofing.
- Elimination of cold bridges in the basement.
The basement is the above-ground part of the foundation. This is a rather complex knot, where the vertical (basement, walls) and horizontal (floors and ceilings) structures of the house converge and adjoin each other.
Correct design, waterproofing and insulation of the base - the necessary conditions for the construction of a durable, economical and heat-saving house.
The figure below clearly shows what will happen if the house has a very low base.
Plinth with a height of at least 20 cm. protects walls from moisture (in the picture on the left) Low base and the absence of a base leads to moisture in the wall of the house (in the picture in the center and on the right)
The height of the base of a private house must be at least 20 cm. With a low base, there is a high risk of moisture in the wall of the house. The walls will be moistened by splashes when raindrops hit the ground, when snowdrifts melt, or from capillary suction of moisture directly from the ground.
Damp walls lose their heat-saving properties. Water freezing in the walls gradually destroys them. Dirt, dampness, fungus and mold appear on the walls outside and inside the house.
In areas with high snow cover, it is better to make the height of the base no lower than the level of stable snow cover. This rule is especially important to follow for houses with wooden walls.
To protect the walls of the house from moisture coming from the ground, two lines of defense are created:
- They increase the height of the base in order to remove the walls of the house as far as possible from the ground, the source of moisture.
- Arrange waterproofing of the walls of the house and the basement in danger zone exposure to moisture.
A high base increases the cost of building a house. Therefore, depending on the design of the walls and, they try to find a reasonable compromise between the size of the plinth and the level of waterproofing.
Be sure to arrange it between the base and the wall of the house.horizontal layer of roll waterproofing.
In some cases, which are discussed below, it is necessary to do additional waterproofing of the walls of the house.
For a private home it is recommended to make a recessed base. In a sinking plinth, the outer surface of the wall protrudes beyond the border of the plinth by about 50 mm. The water falling on the surface of the wall flows down and falls from the wall past the base onto the blind area. This solution prevents water flowing down the wall from reaching the horizontal waterproofing and flow along it into the wall. For better water drainage A drip line is secured along the lower edge of the wall.
It should be noted that in addition to the moisture-proof function, the base plays a certain role in the architectural appearance of the house. A house on a high base looks more solid and impressive, and finishing the base can highlight the beauty of the floors of the house.
Correct basement of a house with single-layer external walls
The height of the basement of a house with single-layer external walls must be at least 50 cm.(in the picture on the left) Or for a plinth height of less than 50 cm, but not lower than 20 cm., additional waterproofing of the walls is necessary. (in the picture on the right) The outer surface of single-layer walls is less protected from moisture than that of multi-layer walls. Therefore, it is recommended to make the base of a house with a height of at least 50 cm.
If the base of a single-layer wall is below 50 cm., That arrange additional waterproofing in two places:
- In the wall, above the first or second layer of masonry made of aerated concrete or porous ceramic blocks, another layer of roll waterproofing is laid.
- The outer surface of the wall, in the area of the lower rows of masonry, is protected from water by a layer of vertical waterproofing. To do this, it is enough to use hydrophobic primers and waterproof plasters when finishing the wall. It is better, but more expensive, to veneer the base and bottom part walls with low water absorption material, such as clinker tiles.
Plinth design for a single-layer wall houses with basement or at home on foundation - slab Can
Dimensions of the basement of a house with two-layer external walls
Minimum height plinth for a two-layer wall insulated with polystyrene foam 20 cm. For a wall insulated with mineral wool, it is recommended not less than 30 cm.(in the left picture) A low base will lead to moisture exterior finishing and soaking mineral wool insulation (in the picture on the right) Besides, thermal insulation of the base eliminates the cold bridge through the base and load-bearing part of the wall, bypassing the thermal insulation of the floor and wall.
In a single-layer wall, the floor is raised to the level of the second or third row of masonry. The vertical waterproofing of the base is raised to the same level. 2 - waterproofing; 4-5 - plaster on a grid; 8 - finishing; 9 - floor on the ground If on site or weakly heaving, then the task of combating the forces of frost heaving is not worth it. In this case, it is only necessary to get rid of the cold bridge through the base and load-bearing part of the wall.
To eliminate the cold bridge in a house with single-layer walls without insulation of the base, it is necessary to raise the floor to the level of the second or third row of masonry blocks outer wall. This is sufficient, since the material of a single-layer wall has low thermal conductivity.
The load-bearing part of two- or three-layer walls is usually made of material with high thermal conductivity. To eliminate the cold bridge in two- or three-layer walls, you can cover only the upper part of the base with insulation, by approximately 0.5 m. below floor level. This will increase the length of the heat flow path along the base.
If the basement space under the house is not heated, then the basement is covered with thermal insulation on both sides.
In multi-layer walls, to eliminate the cold bridge, cover one outer or both sides of the base with thermal insulation (for houses with an unheated basement or floors on the ground) For multilayer walls, another way to combat the cold bridge is used. The lower rows of masonry of the load-bearing part of the wall are made of wall material with low thermal conductivity. The floor level is raised in the same way as for a single-layer wall.
For insulating the base and underground part of the foundation, extruded polystyrene foam slabs (penoplex, etc.) are best suited.
It is convenient to insulate strip foundations. Design of pile foundations with bored (including TISE) or screw piles more suitable for a cold base. Insulation of such foundations is quite problematic and expensive.
The basement space of houses with pile foundations is usually not insulated. design basement floor and the floors of the first floor of a house on a pile foundation are chosen taking this circumstance into account.
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