Independent arrangement of a bathroom is more difficult than repairing other rooms of apartments and houses with all the amenities. The main difficulties are caused by laying pipes in a closed scheme, installation steel bath and other containers for personal hygiene. The bathroom and toilet are the most visited rooms in the apartment, and by their internal equipment, guests judge the cleanliness and real wealth of the family. It is important to learn how to install the adoption tank water procedures without leaks, and the fastening of the steel bathtub must be reliable and stable.

What is important to know about installing a steel bathtub?

The bathroom is the place where the work day begins in the morning, where everyone takes turns getting themselves in order. Taking a bath in the evening upon returning home is not only a hygienic need, but also a place where you want to relax and tune into the rhythm of life at home. Some people refuse large containers in favor of a tray in the shower stall, but it is better to “relax” in a bathtub filled with aromatic foam. This is especially loved by women who simultaneously perform a number of facial and body care procedures. For overall convenience, a comfortable steel bathtub and a cozy atmosphere in the room are essential.

An old bathtub, rusted with age, does not look good against the background of new tiles or other cladding. This is not such a value that you should leave it after a major renovation and then spend a lot on grueling bleaching and cleaning. It is much easier to buy a new tank and install a steel bathtub yourself. But it has its own characteristics, which are important to know for easy installation and effective use.

Any home handyman knows that buying new containers for personal hygiene today is a very expensive business, and the fee for an installation specialist often costs half of its cost, or even more. Therefore, it makes sense to install a steel bathtub yourself.

The modern building materials market offers bathrooms made of different materials:

• steel;
• cast iron;
• acrylic;
• polymer concrete (artificial marble);
• wooden (made of durable wood);
• stone (carved from a single block);
• porcelain;
• ceramic;
• fiberglass;
• composite (steel plus acrylic, acrylic plus quartz powder, fiberglass).

A steel bathtub is one of the most affordable containers. But it has some disadvantages, which are eliminated during installation. There are options for installing a steel bathtub:

• on a special frame or frame;
• on finished metal legs;
• on brick supports or podium;
• on welded corners.

Attention: A full thin-walled steel container with a mass of water up to the edges can be slightly deformed, so it is worthwhile to make additional reinforcement for uniform loading.

Features of a steel container for installation in the bathroom

Steel hot tubs available different shades, shape and size. The most popular example is an oblong rectangular bathtub, which is produced using stamped molding methods. This design comes with a set of stable legs for reliable fixation. The inner surface is usually covered with a layer of smooth enamel for easy maintenance of the container.

The market also offers corner bathtubs with a curved outer edge, but these bathtubs are more expensive due to more complex molding. They require a frame frame or are mounted on a special pallet with a large number of supports. And installing a steel bathtub on a frame is a new expense, for example, for a brick pedestal covered with mosaic tiles.

Modern steel bathtubs are available with interior color options. Elite imported models do not visually differ from expensive products, but are much cheaper than luxury products. Their shape is extruded from a sheet of metal under high pressure and high temperature. Then a facing polymer layer, enamel is applied or connected to an acrylic container of the same shape.

Advice: When purchasing, carefully inspect the product you are purchasing - the enamel should be smooth, without sagging or edges at the junction of the base and coating. Request a certificate from the manufacturer and a warranty card. The thickness of the bathtub determines its susceptibility to deformation and overall service life. The thicker, the more expensive, and the cheapest baths are used for temporary use - the enamel in them will gradually crack.

Attention: If the distance between the walls of the bathroom is smaller than the dimensions of a steel bathtub up to 3-4 cm, it is quite easy to install it, but it is important to properly close the cracks for sealing. If the edges of the tank are 2-3 cm wider, then notches are cut on the opposite walls to bring in its sides. Wall defects can be easily eliminated by tiling, but sealing is not required.

A steel bathtub differs from cast iron products in its light weight, so you can install a steel bathtub yourself, without the help of helpers. A steel bath is stronger, and under strong mechanical stress it will deform, and cast iron will crack.

Advantages and disadvantages of a steel bathtub, ways to eliminate them

An inexpensive steel container has a lot of advantages and small disadvantages; there are few of them, and they are eliminated during installation. Main advantages:

• light weight;
• easy transportation;
• self-installation available;
• quick warming up when filling before taking water procedures;
• low cost with decent design;
• dense, smooth enamel does not peel off, is easy to wash and clean, does not form a persistent calcium deposit, retains its “new” shine and whiteness for many years with reasonable use;
• Due to the plasticity of steel, variations in container shapes provide the most big choice On the market;
• Possibility of installation in several ways.

Main disadvantages:

• a thin-walled bathtub is susceptible to cracking of the enamel layer under heavy load or careless handling;
• high heat transfer (the bathroom cools down quickly), thermal insulation of the outer layer is required;
• shorter service life than cast iron or stone;
• noisy filling with water;
• thin-walled containers can become deformed if installed improperly on steel bath legs or if they are overfilled.

Tip: To prevent the bathtub from “humming” when filling and from cooling quickly, cover it polyurethane foam outside. This will not be visible when covering the podium. When collecting water, use the faucet attachments with a rubber hose for silent filling.

Features of installing a steel container in several ways

The installation method depends on the type of mounting components. The most common method is installation on paired self-adhesive supports. The fastening for a steel bathtub in the form of an arched channel raises doubts among some buyers. But if you follow the accompanying instructions, and the two ends of the bathtub rest against the wall, then such a mount is quite reliable.

Calculations and measurements are made based on the future location of the steel container. The bathtub cannot be wider than the place where it should stand. Ideally, the dimensions of the tank coincide with the place where the product is located, resting against the walls on three sides. This type of fastening is most effective and does not depend on the type of fastener.

The most uniform load distribution is when fastened along the entire perimeter to a frame or frame. It seems to sag, and so that when filled to the top with water it does not deform, supports from below are also needed. In any option, the screws from below are additionally adjusted if you plan to install a steel bathtub on legs. Each leg is adjusted in height separately and secured to the floor.

When mounting to the wall is planned, specialists must level the floors in the room and mark the walls strictly horizontally. This guarantees the absence of distortions and redistribution of load at maximum filling. If a steel bathtub is installed on corners for a frame, then at the junction it is sawed with a hacksaw at 45°. After preliminary fitting, welding will be required, and the resulting frame is secured with brackets to the wall.

Attention: The more support zones, the more reliable the installation of a steel bathtub. If the container has no legs, when marking it is important to take into account the height of the supports so that there is a gap underneath between the bathtub and the floor.

Insulation, sound insulation and sealing of a steel bathtub

Elimination of the shortcomings of a steel container is carried out simultaneously with its installation. Sound insulation of the tank is carried out by treating it with polyurethane foam or porous insulation, which is applied by spraying.

To produce high-quality processing, the steel bath is turned over and placed on the floor. A noise-absorbing fiber is glued onto a previously degreased surface. In this case, it is important to carefully process the ends and securely secure them with any sealant.

As already mentioned in the section on disadvantages, a steel bath heats up quickly, which is good, but it cools down just as quickly, giving off heat. For this reason, they try to make high-quality thermal insulation or insulation of a steel bathtub. The same polyurethane foam will help cope with this task. The foam is released from the can in small portions and the back side of the font is evenly treated.

It is best to cover the surface with foam with polyethylene, smoothing and leveling the foam. When the foam completes the process of expansion and hardening, the bath is turned over and installation is completed.

IN production conditions For noise and heat insulation, Vibroizol is used, well known to motorists. Good results Treatment with sealants such as bitumen resin, which is used for general waterproofing in the bathroom, also gives.

Sealant is also necessary to seal the gap between the bathtub and the wall. And there are many ways to prevent water from getting outside the container along the walls. Use:

• construction silicone;
• polyurethane foam;
• bathtub adhesive tape;
• plastic skirting boards;
• special ceramic linings in the form of plinths, etc.

Attention: If the foam has not yet dried, and the gap between the bathtub and the floor is minimal, then the expanding substance can push out the container, disrupting the accuracy of installation. To prevent this from happening, it is advisable to weigh down a light steel bathtub by filling it to the brim with water. But this can only be done after installing a siphon and connecting to the sewer.

Siphon selection and installation method

A bathtub of any type is installed in a place where the exit to the sewer and connection to the water supply are closest. All siphon components are assembled in accordance with the instructions that come with any product. Detailed description and the diagram shows all the stages of assembly. No matter how reliable the connection, it is recommended to treat the seam with silicone or other sealant.

Attention: Any bathing container must have not only a hole for draining through a siphon, but also a hose for draining water through an overflow funnel. A regular siphon for a washbasin is not suitable, only with a tee.

Today, semi-automatic siphons are available for sale to drain water from a full bath without the need to find a gag. One turn of the washer and the water drains out. This is convenient for large containers, although such a siphon is more expensive. The most practical are siphons with a metal outlet with bolts, which are easier to install than plastic ones. Metal fasteners are coated on the outside with grease to prevent rust.

Mounting the bathtub on brick supports

Experts recommend installing a steel bathtub on bricks - the simplest and most reliable method. If the container is supported on a solid support, like a podium, then this is the most stable position. But most often, only lower brick supports are used, and the bathtub is attached to the wall with brackets.

If the installation is done according to all the rules, the bathtub will be motionless, and this is not only comfortable when sitting in the font, but also guarantees the longest service life. An ordinary red brick is suitable, from which two lower supports or a podium-type perimeter are constructed.

It is very convenient to make 2-3 wide steps from brick with handrails, which make it easier to climb into and out of the bath. With proper cladding, it looks very expensive, like a mini-pool in luxury hotels. A corner steel bathtub with a rounded edge is best suited for this purpose, and it is better to choose a mosaic cladding.

The supports are formed from 2-3 rows of red brick so that they retreat from the edges of the container from below by 15-20 cm. From the brick they form something like a recess under the bottom so that the supports seem to slightly cover it from the sides by half a brick. It is laid using a regular cement mixture with sand, after which the cement should harden within 2 days.

When installed on lower brick supports, the niche under the bathtub is covered in front with a shield and lined with tiles or other moisture-resistant facing material. For example, steel bathtub installation, video:

Bathroom - essential attribute modern man. Here you can not only cleanse your body of the dirt accumulated during the day, but also relax after work, plunging into your thoughts for a while. That is why you should take the choice of a bathtub very seriously, as well as its installation, since not only the appearance of the bathroom, but also the morale of the homeowners will depend on these two factors.

Don’t forget about savings, since installing such a product is a costly affair, and sometimes it’s better to do all the work yourself.

The very first step when replacing a bathtub is choosing the type that will be installed. The durability, appearance and practicality of use will depend on the choice of material from which the product is made. Especially if a boiler is installed as a heater. IN this moment The market offers several types of bathtubs, which differ in material:

1. Steel- an ideal option for those who want to save as much as possible, but due to its cheapness it has a number of disadvantages: metal deformation (deflections) under weight, noise when drawing water. This type is quite easy to install, since a man of average build can easily handle the weight of the product. To reduce the likelihood of deformation and damage to the enamel during operation, you need to select the bathtub itself of such dimensions that it contacts and is attached to three walls.

Steel baths have high level heat transfer. In order to fill a standard-sized bathtub you will need about 50 liters of water with a temperature of at least 80 degrees. The only plus is that the metal warms up quickly.

2. Cast iron- with proper use and care, it can last for several generations. It is unrealistic to handle the weight of the product yourself, so installation will have to be done by several people. If a steel bathtub can be connected to an already installed siphon, then a cast iron product can break part of the communications due to one awkward movement. Another drawback is adjusting the level of the installed product. If the bathtub is equipped with legs of fixed sizes, you will have to put a lot of effort into leveling it. Adjustable legs in cast iron bathtubs can also be found, but they are quite flimsy and can break under a certain amount of force.

In order to accept cast iron bath you will need about 100 liters hot water. The metal takes a very long time to heat up and gives off heat quickly. In terms of economy, one procedure will cost one and a half times more than in a steel bathtub.

3. Acrylic bath- lightweight, easy to install, durable (15-20 years). You will need at least two people for installation. The product does not tolerate aggressive detergents and is intended only for bathing (you can forget about large washes using the good old methods). In terms of price, such bathtubs are cheaper than cast iron ones, but they can still hit the budget big time.

The most economical type of bathroom in terms of use for its intended purpose. The material gives off heat very slowly and warms up quickly, and for one use 50 liters of hot water with a temperature of 40 degrees is enough.

Acrylic bathtubs have recently become very popular, despite the fact that their price sometimes exceeds all possible limits. This popularity is due to the presence of a large assortment, as well as the ease of installation. Also, the buyer can choose not only the classic rectangular bowl, but also corner options, which expands the possibilities for interior decoration.

Preparing the bathroom for installation

Wall covering

It is best to install a bath directly during the renovation of the room, but before finishing the cladding. Since at this moment you can achieve maximum aesthetic and practical qualities, and during laying the tiles, you can effectively treat all the cracks that can let water through and create an ideal environment for the development of mold and bacteria.

If we're talking about When only replacing the bathtub itself, you should make sure that the height of the product is 1.5-2 cm higher than the previous one. The part of the tile that the old container came into contact with was not subject to fading, and could also accumulate a fair amount of dirt on its surface and wash it, in most cases it is simply unrealistic.

Working with the floor

Before installing the bathtub, you need to once again make sure that the floor is perfectly flat and durable, especially if we are talking about installing a cast-iron bathtub, which is heavy even when unfilled. Tiles under a heavy bathtub should be laid using the pressing method, which allows you to get rid of voids under the material. It is because of them that the tile can crack.

To distribute the load that the bathtub will create when filled, you can use wooden joists. Most suitable tree- larch. The logs are pre-treated with antiseptic and antibacterial agents, then impregnated with drying oil or PVA putty.

Such logs will distribute the load and solve the issue of height. By the way, the latter will help solve not only the problem of appearance, but will also allow you to install a siphon with a deeper elbow, which prevents sewage waste from penetrating in the opposite direction. Also, thanks to the additional rise of the bathtub, less waste in the form of hair, etc. will accumulate in the siphon.

Drain fittings

When choosing drain fittings, you need to pay attention to the following characteristics:

1. Material. Products made from polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and polyisopropylene are available on the market. The second option is more durable, but will also be more expensive, but a number of advantages completely pay for the product:

• the material is several times harder than PVC, which significantly reduces the likelihood of mechanical damage during bath installation;
• does not lose its strength characteristics over time;
• has a smoother surface, which reduces the likelihood of contamination;
• has a higher efficiency, since the friction of water against the walls of the pipes is much less.

2. Drain. Most drains on the market come from China and use a bolt during the installation process. Over time, such bolts will corrode, rust and oxidize, regardless of the material. Even if you purchase a stainless steel bolt separately, as a result of its contact with the mesh, a solder will form, which will reduce the likelihood of successful disassembly during repairs to zero.

3. Drain mesh. Most economical option- a mesh consisting of two crossbars forming a cross. This type is an ideal hair catcher. More practical look, in which round holes are located around the perimeter. The most expensive and reliable look– the holes in the mesh are oblique, profiled.

4. Cork chain– it is advisable not to use those products that come complete with drain nets, but to purchase a separate one. The best option is to use a chain designed for fishing, and covered with a layer of paint on top. The latter protects against the negative effects of water.

5. Overflow pipe. Although most older bathtubs use rigid pipe, it is best to use corrugated pipe, which has a large throughput and diameter. These two indicators reduce the likelihood of water overflowing.

Bathtub dimensions - nuances

The dimensions of the bathtub will directly depend on the size of the room where the product will be located, as well as on those who will use it. Before purchasing the container itself, it is necessary to carefully measure the place where it will be located, and also take into account the availability additional equipment, type washing machines, dryers and boilers. It is worth remembering that bathtubs that are identical in appearance can have different volumes.

The most common sizes for different types of bathtubs:

1. Steel: length 150-180 cm, height 65 cm, width 70-85 cm.

2. Cast iron is available in several standardized sizes:

• small-sized: length – 120-130 cm, width 70 cm;
• European standard: length 140-150 cm, width 70 cm;
• large-sized: length 170-180 cm, width 70-85 cm.

3. Acrylic bathtubs are available on the market in the widest range, from 120 to 190 cm in length and 70-170 cm in width.

Small-sized bathtubs are suitable for small spaces, but the bathing process does not bring any pleasure at all. Also, you should not count on a lower cost, since compactness is a need and to satisfy it, you need to spend a little money.

If the bathroom is quite spacious, you should opt for a cast iron or acrylic product. It is the range of the latter that is the most diverse: corner, with decorative finishing, rectangular, square, polygonal, etc.

When you don’t want to spend money on an acrylic bathtub, you can purchase a plastic product. As a rule, they are purchased from Chinese manufacturers and are not of particular quality, and installation requires additional effort and attention to detail.

DIY bath installation: step-by-step guide

Installation of all types of bathtubs is carried out in several stages, but during the process you may need special tools and materials.

1. The rule is an even strip, the length of which is equal to the diagonal of the bathtub. As such a tool, you can use any long and level bar on which a level is placed.
2. Fork wrench - necessary for tightening drain mechanisms, which are most often made of plastic.
3. Rubber hammer - can be useful when shrinking the legs of the bathtub. The use of metal products may cause deformation of the surface of the product and also damage the enamel.

Additional materials: silicone-based sealant and “rag” electrical tape. The latter is only needed when installing an acrylic bathtub.

Leveling the bathtub and connecting to the sewer

Leveling the bathtub is carried out using a level, and the main principle is to lift the lowered part, and not vice versa, since the height of the installed product is important for us.

A full connection to the sewer system is carried out after the bath is completely installed, since the siphon can be damaged in the process. When choosing drain fittings, you first need to pay attention to the width of the outlet pipe. If it is wide enough, you can do without a cuff, and simply fill the gap with silicone or silicone-based sealant. You can level the bathtub in two ways: diagonally and along the sides.

In the first case, you need to put the rule on opposite corners, and set the level on top. After the level shows a satisfactory result, it is necessary to shift the rule to other angles and repeat twisting the legs. When finished, repeat the procedure again.

In the second case, the level is placed on the side of the bathtub, the legs of one side are adjusted, then we move to the other. Alignment along the sides is carried out several times, since the side opposite to the one being measured may get lost. The method of leveling along the sides is more labor-intensive, especially in cases where the floor has a number of irregularities.

Preparing the sewer

First you need to make sure that the sewer pipe pipe and the pipe itself are completely dry. This will allow you to achieve maximum sealing when connecting. It is best to shut off the water supply to the entire residence, and, if possible, completely stop the water supply to the riser. The main thing is not to forget to warn your neighbors that there will be no water for several hours during the flight. Next, make sure that there is no moisture not only from the inside, but also from the outside of the pipe. To do this, you can use a regular cosmetic hair dryer.

Once the workplace is prepared, it’s time to move on to the actual installation. Let's start with a bathtub made of acrylic.

Installation of an acrylic bathtub

Each product comes with special guides onto which the legs are later attached. They are installed across the bathtub. In the lodgements ( correct name guides) the legs are screwed in.

The guides themselves are attached to the bathtub using special screws, which can also be found in the kit. To prevent the self-tapping screws from damaging the integrity of the shell, you need to pre-drill holes for them. You must use a drill with a stop, and the depth of the hole should not exceed 3/4 of the length of the screw.

After the guides are installed, you need to turn the bathtub on its side and connect the drain fittings. Before installing it, all gaskets that will be used must be treated with silicone. Remember that the drain gasket is installed only from the outside! Otherwise, get ready to pay your neighbors to repair the ceiling.

All threaded connections should not be tightly tightened, as there is a possibility of damage to the structure during installation.

During installation, place the bathtub close to all walls, at the same time make sure that the bathtub outlet is connected to the sewer pipe. Next, level the bathtub using a rule (level) and seal the connection to the sewer with sealant.

While the sealant hardens, it is necessary to tighten everything using a fork wrench. screw connections who were in a semi-relaxed state.

When the sealant has completely hardened, check all joints for the possibility of leaks and if none are found, you can treat the gaps between the bathtub and the walls with the same sealant.

Installation of a steel bath

A steel bathtub is installed similarly to an acrylic one. The only difference is the way the legs are attached. They are attached using bolts, studs or wedges. The bolts must be tightened gradually and one at a time. You should not immediately be zealous and tighten them to the limit, as in the future there may be a need for additional, fine adjustments.

To make the bathtub make a less loud sound when filling, you can place a piece of automobile rubber between the leg mount and the surface of the bathtub.

Subtleties of installing a cast iron bathtub

Let us remind you that cast iron products have incredible weight and a bathtub made from this material is no exception. It is advisable to carry out all connection and adjustment work in the bathroom. Moving a product from room to room is fraught with unforeseen consequences in the form of damage. doorways and other interior elements.

Products with decorative legs deserve special attention. This type is selected specifically for the interior and the use of pads as the level is adjusted will negate the entire aesthetic component. Decorative legs should be filed at the base, but this is a job for masters of their craft.

To install a drain, unlike previous types, it is advisable not to turn a cast iron bathtub on its side. It will be enough to raise the front part to create additional space, and fix it in this state with the help of bars.

All work must be carried out very carefully and not tug the bathtub again.

Installing a plastic bathtub

We didn't highlight this type into a separate category, since plastic bathtubs are a cheaper substitute for acrylic products, and the installation process is almost identical. The only difference is the need to create an additional pillow that will relieve the load from the bottom of the product. The pillow can be made either from the same larch or from cement. Plastic baths also require special care and careful use. Otherwise, the need to replace the product will appear in 5-7 years. These products do not tolerate aggressive detergents.

Bathroom screen

There are a wide variety of bathroom screens. Moreover, you can not limit yourself to buying a finished product, but do everything yourself. This approach may not be the most correct, but it will definitely be the most economical.

Installing a bathtub without the help of specialists is a rather difficult task, which not everyone can do. Here you need to have not only the ability to work with various tools, but also know all the intricacies of the process. You should also take special care when working with cast iron products - they are heavy and you can easily injure your limbs during the transfer process.

Video lesson: Installing a bathtub. Important points

If you doubt your abilities, invite the help of specialists who will carry out all the work according to the standards and your desires. In addition, companies or firms involved in installation are required to provide guarantees for the work performed, as well as for Additional materials, which were purchased directly through them.

You need to choose the right plumbing fixtures. There are many varieties of it. Today, owners of houses and apartments often purchase shower stalls. However, baths do not lose their popularity. Such plumbing today can be made from different materials.

You can do the installation yourself. It is important to know all the intricacies of this process. How to install a bathtub with your own hands, expert advice will help. Each type of plumbing requires specific methods. They will be discussed further.

Installation Features

When considering how to properly install a bathtub, you need to start with a general description of this process. The choice of plumbing fixtures is also important. The bathtub is a large product. It can be quite heavy. At the same time, such plumbing fixtures must be handled carefully so as not to damage the surface. The coating may crack or chip.

Often installation has to be carried out in cramped spaces. This increases the risk of damage to the bathtub. Cast iron varieties can cause damage to the finish themselves. Therefore, it is recommended to carry out the work with an assistant. This makes installation faster and easier.

It is also worth considering one more nuance. Connecting the drain and siphon is done almost by touch. To complete the task, the master must have certain skills.

When learning how to install, pay attention to the advice of experts. They argue that it is extremely important to perform all actions carefully. Care will be required. Otherwise, the work will need to be done again. For example, dropping a tool into a bathtub can damage its surface. In this case, you will need to buy new plumbing fixtures.

The type of material from which the bathtub is made depends on what the installer does. Therefore, if you want to carry out the installation yourself, you need to consider the features of each type of plumbing fixture. This will allow you to determine which type of bathtub is best suited in a particular case.

Steel and acrylic bathtub

The answer to this question can be obtained if we consider all the subtleties of this process. First you need to consider the features of each. They come in steel, acrylic and cast iron. Each variety has its own characteristics.

A steel bathtub is rigid and relatively inexpensive. It is easy to install yourself. You don't even need an assistant. The disadvantage of steel varieties is their fragility. When water is poured into such a bowl, the material makes a fairly loud sound. The bathtub “plays”, which is reflected in the condition of the enamel. This type of plumbing is suitable for a small room. Here it can be leaned against three walls. This will extend its service life. It should also be noted that a steel bathtub easily transfers heat to the surrounding space. The water in it cools quickly. More energy costs will be required to heat water.

One good option is an acrylic bathtub. Its service life reaches 20 years. This bathtub is more expensive than steel varieties. Her weight is also average. Installing this type of plumbing will require the help of a second person. However, installation does not cause any particular difficulties.

Before considering how to install an acrylic bathtub, you need to know about its disadvantages. Even high-quality bowls are not susceptible to impact chemical substances. Therefore, cleaning the surface presents certain difficulties. Do not use abrasive or aggressive chemicals. Leaves no traces on the bowl pure water.

Cast iron bath

Special attention should be paid to considering the methodology for installing a cast iron bathtub. Such varieties are distinguished by their heavy weight. It has many advantages. However, this bowl is not without its drawbacks.

Cast iron varieties of bathtubs are considered almost eternal. However, this statement is only true when proper care and handling the bathtub. This is a heavy product. To install it you will need a strong assistant. It is recommended to install such a bathtub in a small room where it can be rested against three walls.

Apart from a long service life, cast iron bowls have virtually no advantages. Thus, an acrylic bathtub surpasses them in terms of practicality and efficiency. The plastic warms up almost instantly. However, it does not release heat to the environment. It only takes a little hot water to fill the bowl. If the owners have an acrylic bathtub, they can install a boiler of only 50 liters.

A cast iron bath, on the contrary, consumes a lot of heat. At the same time, it quickly releases it into the environment. The bowl takes a long time to warm up. If you have a regular cast iron bathtub, you will need to install a boiler with a capacity of 100 liters. At the same time, energy costs increase by 1.5 times compared to steel varieties, and also by 2.5 times compared to acrylic structures.

When figuring out how to install a bathtub, you also need to consider the installation features of cast iron varieties. Due to the heavy weight, installation becomes much more difficult. It is almost impossible to place the bowl on an already prepared siphon without damaging it. Therefore, it is mounted to the bowl in advance. However, even in this case the possibility of damage cannot be ruled out.

Installing a cast iron bathtub with legs is also a challenge. If you purchase adjustable type supports, they can quickly break. This installation option is only suitable for a small room where the bathtub is pressed against three walls.

Preparation for installation

Before considering the technology of how to install a bathtub with your own hands, you need to pay attention to the preparation process. This stage cannot be neglected.

First you need to dismantle and remove from the room old bath(if it was already installed here). If a cast iron bowl was previously installed, it will need to be cut and split into pieces. If the room is small, dismantling it may be difficult. There are no such problems with acrylic and steel bathtubs.

Next, you need to properly prepare the floor and walls and remove all irregularities. You will need to purchase a number of tools. You need to prepare a grinder, chisel, hammer and screwdriver. Will also be needed cement mortar, polyurethane foam. If the installation is carried out on a frame, you will need to purchase material for its assembly.

You should purchase paint, polyurethane foam, and sealant. You may need electrical tape as you work. To install a bathtub you need legs, drain fittings and other related elements. It is also recommended to purchase a new faucet. It will harmoniously complement the appearance of the bath.

If the owners have plastic sewer pipes installed, you need to purchase a drain corrugation with a diameter of 50 mm. For cast iron pipes this element of the system must have a diameter of 40 mm.

When learning how to install a corner or straight bathtub, you need to pay attention to the preparation of the sewer drain. If there are defects or malfunctions in this system, they need to be eliminated before it is especially important to eliminate leaks, if any are found.

Also, before starting work, you need to study the instructions of the bathtub manufacturer. The manual describes the installation technology in detail. This information must be studied before starting work.

Walls and floor

There are certain standards for installing a bathtub. This applies to the preparation and installation process. It is recommended to cladding the walls indoors after installing the bowl. This allows you to comply with all sanitary and hygienic standards. When the tile is installed after installing the bathtub, its bottom edge hangs over the plumbing. It is coated with a waterproofing compound. This avoids the appearance of fungus and rot.

If the bathtub is installed in a finished room that does not require major repairs, its legs should be at least 2 cm higher than the old plumbing fixtures. Otherwise, an unsightly gap appears. Its finishing will cause a number of difficulties. Even if you use similar tiles, new material will be slightly different in color from the old coating.

It is also worth paying due attention proper finishing floor. Many novice craftsmen have a question: how to install a bathtub so that it does not wobble? To perform installation correctly, you need to level the floor. At the same time, durable materials are chosen for finishing the base. The weight of the water bath is quite large.

The cement layer under the bowl must be continuous. It is laid not using a comb, but by extrusion. If there are voids in the grout, the tile may crack from the weight of the bathtub in that area.

Experienced experts recommend installing larch logs on the floor (other types of wood are not suitable). They are laid lengthwise. The legs will stand on them. The boards must be treated with special antiseptic solutions. This technique will evenly distribute the load on the floor. The logs will also help you correctly adjust the height of the bathtub. To prevent the boards from shrinking later, you need to place a bowl on them and fill it with water. The system remains in this position for at least 2 days (preferably a week).

Features of installing a corner acrylic bowl

There are a number of recommendations on how to install an acrylic bathtub. It is necessary to take into account the features of this design. Today, corner acrylic bowls are very popular. They will look harmonious in both small and spacious bathrooms. This bowl shape allows you to install many additional interior elements in the bathroom. For example, if you have a corner bathtub in the room, you can place a washbasin with a cabinet. There is also enough space to install a bidet or washing machine.

There are several nuances to installing acrylic corner baths. These need to be taken into account before starting work. Similar designs can be with a right or left type of arrangement. The ease of connecting the water supply and sewerage depends on the correct choice of bowl type.

The walls for installing such a bathtub must be very smooth. Otherwise, the structure will be impossible to level. It will wobble and quickly collapse.

Corner bowls are installed on legs. In this case, the supports must be firmly fixed along the entire perimeter. They will later serve to fasten the frame and its guides. This work requires precision and accuracy. You will need to consider in detail how to install a bath on a frame.

Where the bowl will be adjacent to the wall, you will need to install a flexible baseboard. It does not deform during vibrations and will also prevent water leakage. Otherwise the installation is angular acrylic bathtub similar to the technology for installing any bowl made of this material.

Installation of an acrylic bowl on a frame

Should be considered frame technology How to properly install an acrylic bathtub. For built-in plumbing this is one of best options installation To carry out the work you will need a building level. Its length should correspond to the diagonal of the acrylic product. The hammer must have a rubber tip.

A pipe must be attached to the sewer outlet. It should be flexible and have the same diameter as the tub outlet. You need to attach a siphon here. If it is new, you need to carefully study the manufacturer's instructions. How to install a siphon on a bathtub is indicated by the company that supplies the bowl. All the nuances of this process are discussed here.

The siphon will need to be pre-assembled. It is attached to the bathtub, coating the joints with sanitary silicone. It hardens within 4 hours.

After this you need to mount the frame. First, fix the guides along the wall. These profiles should be fixed as evenly as possible. Other frame elements will be mounted from them. They are installed on the sides. They are fixed to them vertical racks. The connection is made using welding or bolts. Angles need to be checked using a level. If one of them is down and the other is up, you need to align them. At the same time, the lowered corner is raised, and not vice versa. After this, they are additionally fixed with strips for rigidity.

After this, an acrylic bowl is installed in the prepared structure. An overflow from a siphon must be connected to its side hole, and a sewer drain must be connected to the central hole. Plumbing communications are located above the bathtub, so their installation is carried out later. Next, a screen and a plinth between the wall and the bowl are installed.

Installation of an acrylic bowl with legs

There is a certain system for how to properly install a clawfoot bathtub. The supports are supplied complete with the plumbing product. There are special protrusions on the bottom of these bowls. Legs are installed on them. In order for the structure to be rigid, the supports also need to be connected to each other. To perform this procedure, nuts and studs are used.

Next, a siphon is connected to the drain. After this, you can begin installing the bath. The feet must rest firmly on the floor surface. They are checked using a level. If one corner is raised, the other corners also need to be raised. To do this, turn the bowl over. The legs are adjusted to the desired level.

After this, you can connect communications. The water supply will need to be installed later. How to install a faucet on a bathtub, follow the instructions from the manufacturer of this equipment.

In rare cases, acrylic. This is explained by the complexity of performing such work. It is difficult to install bricks at all support points at the same level. This can cause the bathtub to wobble. This problem can only be solved by creating a frame. Therefore, installing an acrylic bowl on bricks is not recommended by experts.

Installation of a cast iron bowl

The question of how to install a cast iron bathtub deserves special attention. In this case, increased demands are placed on the quality of the subfloor and walls. Such a bowl is almost always installed on legs. Bricks can also be used in this case. In this case, it will be difficult to assemble the frame. It must be very durable. The metal of the guides must withstand a weight of about 500 kg.

First, you need to mount the legs on the back of the bowl. They have plastic nozzles. This element is necessary to level the position of the bath. The nozzles also prevent the destruction of the floor surface. The supports must be bolted together. This will make the connection tighter. There should be a slight slope towards the drain. After this, a drain from the sewer is supplied. There should be no leaks.

Next you need to mount the screen. This is an optional but desirable procedure. Expert advice will help you on how to install a screen under a bathtub. They recommend using insulation for this. This will reduce heat loss, which will be significant if a cast iron bowl is used. For this purpose, special polyurethane foam is used. It is used to cover the back surface of the bowl. After this, you need to install a decorative screen. It should be 1 cm higher than the side. This way the water will not overflow onto the floor.

The joints between the walls are covered with plinths. All connections must be carefully treated with sealant. Installing a cast iron bowl requires significant physical effort. It is better to entrust this work to professionals.

Installation of a steel bowl

When installing a steel bowl, the question of how to install the screen under the bathtub disappears. If such a product is installed, it is necessary to ensure free access to all communications.

First, place the bowl upside down. You need to put soft material under it. Next, try on the supports. The supporting channel must be adjusted so that the legs fit snugly to the bottom of the bowl. The joints must be degreased with alcohol. Do not use paint thinner.

Remove the protective film from the linings. The supports are placed in the designated places. They need to be pressed tightly. Threaded pins must be carefully driven into the plastic ends. The tip is screwed using nuts to the supports.

The bathtub is installed on legs. If necessary, their level must be adjusted. There should be a slight slope towards the drain. Sewage and faucet are connected. The joints must be sealed with high quality sealant. Next, you can attach the baseboard to the wall. You can install a decorative screen. It is better to give preference to sliding structures.

Having considered how to install a bathtub, you can perform this procedure yourself. The quality of installation will be high. The bathtub will last for many years.

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• Kinds
• Choice
• Installation
• Finishing
• Repair
• Installation
• Device
• Cleaning

Bath installation

You can install a bathtub yourself, the main thing is to follow all the rules and advice of experts. Well, and, of course, you can’t do it without an assistant, since the bath itself is quite heavy and it’s more convenient to handle it with two people. How to install a bathtub correctly and what is needed for this? It’s worth finding out in advance what difficulties await you.

Option one: installing a clawfoot bathtub

First, you need to dismantle the old bathtub and determine the method of outflow and water supply.

If it is installed in the same place, then nothing needs to be changed. Otherwise, you will need to purchase additional hoses or pipes.

But to make the calculation correctly, you first need to be in place. If the legs of the bathtub can be adjusted in height, then you need to determine the maximum low and high position of the bathtub.

Step-by-step description of the work:

1. Mark the installation site, lay the bathtub on its side and connect the floor siphon with outlet and overflow.
2. To seal the joint of the drain hole, rubber gaskets are installed on top and bottom.
3. Now you need to connect a floor-type hydraulic siphon.
4. If the bath will be connected to a steel pipeline, then at this stage of installing the siphon you need to connect one end of the electrical potential equalizer.
5. After this, you need to secure the overflow with gaskets and connect it to the overflow pipe.
6. The next step is to attach the legs to the bottom of the tub.
7. The outlet from the sewer pipe is connected to the siphon.
8. After installing the bathtub in place, you need to level it. To check that the installation is correct, simply pour a little water into the bath and make sure that all the water goes into the siphon.
9. Now place the rubber O-ring on the sewer pipe outlet and secure it well in the socket.
10. Upon completion of all work, connect the second end of the electrical potential equalizer to ground. By the way, only Jacuzzis require mandatory grounding - in other cases it is a matter of choice.

To prevent water from leaking between the bathtub and the wall, it is necessary to make a silicone gasket that can be tiled. This will not only provide protection against leakage, but will also make the installation more durable.

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Option two: “grandfather’s” method

In essence, there is nothing complicated in installing a bathtub, but there are doubts about the reliability of installing the bathtub on legs.

1. Firstly, you need to screw them on very carefully so that, by tightening them, you do not damage the bathtub itself.
2. Secondly, over time, the legs may rot, since the bathroom is a room with high humidity.

That is why many people use the proven and reliable “grandfather” method, when the bathtub is simply installed on bricks.

Materials and tools:

• red bricks;
• primer;
• solution;
• tape sealant;
• putty knife;
• level.

Ordinary ceramic bricks are ideal for this job, as they withstand a humid environment well, but you can coat them with a primer for reliability. This can be done both before and after installation.

The bricks are laid out on the floor in two rows, in the places where the legs should be. 2.5 bricks in length are placed in each row. The width should be equal to half a brick. Three rows are enough for height.

This is basically a standard height. It is sufficient to ensure that there is enough space under the bathtub to accommodate all the necessary pipes and other parts of the installation, at the same time it is not high and is quite convenient for its operation.

Installing a bathtub with your own hands is a rather complex process that requires certain skills and abilities. A bathtub is a large item that needs careful handling: it’s easy to ruin the enamel, but it’s almost impossible to restore it. The intricacies of this process will be discussed in the article.

Model selection

If it is expected complete replacement baths, you need to immediately decide on your choice. Only a competent approach will help you buy a plumbing fixture that will fully meet the needs of all apartment residents. Among the options on the market, the most popular products can be identified:

• Steel- They are affordable and easy to use. The peculiarity of this option is that, with certain skills, such a bathtub can be installed by one person. The only drawback is that the enamel of such a product deteriorates extremely quickly, so durability is out of the question. A steel bathtub is an ideal solution for small rooms where it is necessary to install the plumbing fixture as close to the wall as possible. This allows you to significantly protect yourself from deformation and the need for replacement in the future.
• Cast iron– differ for a long time services and do not require special treatment. However, such baths are characterized by extremely high cost and complexity of installation, which is caused by their significant weight. Install the bathtub already ready-made siphon impossible, so you have to attach it to it in advance, which is quite difficult in the cramped conditions of a small space.
• Plastic- have become very popular recently and can boast of their environmental safety, durability and attractive appearance. Acrylic bathtubs are more expensive than steel ones, but they are cheaper than cast iron ones.

You should work with such a plumbing device very carefully, as it is quite easy to damage the surface. According to other characteristics, the acrylic option is considered one of the most suitable for modern bathrooms.

Having decided on the material suitable for manufacturing, you can begin to select the size of the product. During the selection process, you should pay attention to the height of the side, the depth of the bowl, its length and width. The most suitable height of plumbing fixtures can be determined by the average height of family members. In addition, you should definitely take into account the presence of children in the apartment. For adults, the optimal height is 60-70 cm. If you have children, it is better to choose smaller products.

Each type of bath has its own distinctive features by dimensions:

• Cast iron products are presented in two versions: miniature (120x70 cm) and European standard (140x70 cm).
• The length of the bowl of a steel bath is 150-180 cm, and the width is 85 cm. Sometimes on the market you can find products made of economy-type steel. The length of this model is 120 cm, which makes it an excellent option for a small room.
• Acrylic bathtubs come in a wide variety, so there are a lot of options when choosing. On the market you can find models with long and short bowls. It all depends on the overall configuration of the product.

The bath can be wall-mounted or corner. A distinctive feature of wall-mounted products is that they are mounted as close as possible to one of the walls, while corner products are installed at the corners.

Wall-mounted bathtubs come in the most different forms. The most popular is oval, which looks more stylish and elegant. As for corner baths, they are usually found with regular geometry, less often in asymmetrical shapes.

When choosing a bath for a city apartment, you need to take into account the available space, as well as the minimum set of furniture to be installed.

Finally, you need to decide on the manufacturer of the plumbing equipment:

• Cast iron bathtubs on the domestic plumbing market are represented by three major manufacturers: "Universal", Roca and Jacob Delafon.
• Among steel options, products of domestic companies are in great demand, and among foreign ones, Spanish ones can be distinguished trademark Roca and Portuguese products BLB.
• Acrylic bathtubs are presented in the greatest variety. On the market you can find products from European countries, Turkey and China. Among the most famous manufacturers is the Czech company Ravak, Polish Cersanit and Kolo, Spanish Pool Spa.

• At the moment, quaril baths are produced by only one company - a German brand Villeroy&Boch. The fact is that this company- is both the developer of the technology itself and the creator of the material, so the right to produce products belongs only to her. For this reason, you do not need to believe if they try to sell you a quaril product from another manufacturer.

Preparing the bathroom

Before installing this plumbing product, it is necessary to prepare the entire room, which will allow for proper installation and guarantee the durability of the bath. First you need to pay attention to the walls. If installation new bath is carried out simultaneously with renovations in the room, then the cladding should be carried out after installation. If renovation work will not be carried out, then the new plumbing fixture must be at least a few centimeters higher than the old one. Only in this case can you achieve an attractive appearance, and also make sure that there are no gaps.

Special attention It is also necessary to pay attention to the floor, which must be perfectly flat and reliable, without baseboards, capable of supporting the weight of the product being installed.

Even an empty cast-iron bathtub weighs quite a lot, so the base for it must be prepared correctly. Not every tile can withstand such a load. The ideal option is if the tiles are laid on solid cement, this ensures maximum strength and reliability. If there is even a minimal void under the tile, then from such pressure it will immediately crack.

If it is not possible to carry out repair work on the floor covering, you can simply lay two strong larch boards, which will reduce the pressure on the floor and tiles.

However, the wood must be pre-treated with fungicides, since the bathroom is a fairly damp room, so all materials should be protected from rotting. Using a plank cushion you can not only get rid of problems with the load on the floor covering, but also solve issues related to the height of the bathtub.

Installation of different types of baths

On modern market There are a large number of bathtubs that differ from each other in their characteristics, cost, appearance, performance properties and installation features. In order for the installed plumbing fixture to last as long as possible and fully perform its assigned functions, it is necessary to take into account its type during installation.

Acrylic

Before installing such a product, it is necessary to attach to it all the guides for the legs, which will be installed crosswise - on special screws. Included with each acrylic bathtub is special instructions, which explains how to mark the fasteners. The supports should be applied perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the bathtub, marking all the necessary places with a pencil. The drilling depth cannot exceed 25% of the length of the screw.

It is necessary to install the drain fittings by turning the bathtub on its side. To ensure everything goes as smoothly as possible, you need to adhere to the following recommendations:

• each gasket must be lubricated with silicone before installation;
• the gasket is installed from the outside;
• it is better to choose a conical gasket, which is installed with the tip to the hose, so that during the tightening process it does not damage the spacer;
• Threaded connections must be tightened tightly, but not too tight, otherwise they may burst.

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When all this is done, you can turn the plumbing fixture over and install the legs. It should be noted that you will not be able to cope with the installation of such a product on your own, so you will definitely need a partner. A more experienced person should be on the drain side to constantly monitor its location and installation.

The acrylic bathtub should be moved as closely as possible to the wall, which will ensure more convenient use and prevent damage to the product. When the model is installed in its place, leveling and sealing against leakage should be carried out. First we use the sealant, and carry out the rest of the work only after it has dried.

After the sealant has hardened, it is necessary to check for leaks, because after finishing the work it will be extremely difficult to return to the previous stage. If there are no leaks, then using silicone it is also necessary to seal the gaps between the sides of the bathtub and the wall.

Metal

Installation of a steel bathtub is carried out in the same way as an acrylic one. The only exception is the installation of legs, which must be inserted into fasteners and secured with bolts and nuts. It is necessary to fix them as firmly as possible, tapping them with rubber mallet. The legs should not wobble, otherwise the steel bathtub may damage them.

Most plumbers advise installing pieces of rubber under the surfaces of the legs in contact with the bowl of the sanitary ware, which will significantly reduce the ringing when filling the bathtub with water.

The most difficult thing to install is a cast iron bathtub, which is extremely heavy, so moving it is very difficult and dangerous for repairing the room itself. If the size of the room allows, you need to move the product to the bathroom and install it there. First - drain and legs, then leveling is carried out.

If a cast iron model is equipped with decorative legs, this greatly complicates installation. The fact is that the installation of such a product is a rather labor-intensive and responsible process that only an experienced and professional craftsman can handle. It will not be possible to install pads under the legs, since this completely destroys the attractive appearance of the product, and filing is extremely difficult, because precise measurements are required here.

Moreover, each time you will need to turn the bathtub over, move it or move it on its side, which is extremely difficult, given its significant weight. For this reason, to install a cast-iron bathtub, which is equipped with decorative legs, it is necessary to first level the floor surface (using materials of increased strength).

Jacuzzi

Hot tubs are quite interesting and useful products for improving people's health. The combination of water and air bubbles provides relaxing and therapeutic effects. The Jacuzzi first appeared in the United States of America, this happened in the middle of the last century. For a long time, only very wealthy people could afford a jacuzzi.

Now manufacturers of sanitary products offer a wide variety of models that are affordable. In the era high technology There are many hydromassage baths on the market today, which are distinguished by their small dimensions, wide range of functions and attractive appearance.

The installation technology of such models has its own nuances and distinctive features, so it is better to entrust the installation to an experienced specialist.

Before starting the installation, you should prepare all the diagrams and manufacturer’s recommendations, as well as accurately mark the places where the connection to the sewer, installation of electrical wiring, and ensure water supply will take place. Due to the need to connect electricity, the installation of such a model must be carried out in strict compliance with fire safety requirements, otherwise everything can lead to dire consequences. In this case, special attention must be paid to the power of the device and the voltage in electrical system apartments or houses.

When installing a jacuzzi, you should also take into account the fact that sockets, switches and other devices must be located at a distance of at least 70 cm from the bath itself. Otherwise, it may lead to oxidation (resulting in high humidity). This may cause a fire.

Included with any hydromassage bathtub are special legs that allow you to secure the model in the required position and at a certain height so that there are no distortions. If you do not install the Jacuzzi on its legs, then during operation it will vibrate, which will not allow you to get the desired effect from its operation.

Installation of the legs should be carried out as carefully as possible, using a building level, which will allow for accuracy. After leveling, the Jacuzzi can be connected to other communications through a gate.

Built-in option

It will not be possible to install a built-in bathtub into the floor without a pit. Moreover, an ordinary dug hole will not work here. It will also be necessary to concrete the walls and floor, thereby ensuring the space necessary for installation and maintenance of plumbing fixtures. When installing a built-in bathtub, certain nuances should be taken into account:

• The contours of the pit must coincide with the contours of the bath and be overlapped by its sides. In other words, the bathtub should be supported by the sides.
• The depth should be such that the plumbing product is raised above the base by 50 mm or less.
• Access to the pit should be provided so that the connection and installation of the bath can be carried out without problems. All water and sewer lines are located here. The ideal solution All pipes will be hidden in an invisible hatch.

Work order

To understand the general principles of installing a bathtub, you should consider the sequence of work, which will be the same for any model, including acrylic and cast iron options. Of course, each type has its own distinctive features, there are also certain installation subtleties, but first you need to find out the general principles and rules of installation.

So, installing a bathtub includes the following steps:

• Assembly and installation of the drain siphon. Most of the models on the market are assembled using union nuts and rubber seals. Beginners often make the mistake of sealing joints, which in the future causes the product to break. The assembly diagram should be used.
• Installation of the bathtub on supports. Here you should also be extremely careful. There are quite a few designs of supporting elements for a bathtub. You can find both complex and simple options. Some craftsmen prefer to use foam blocks or bricks rather than factory legs. Steel options look much better when installed this way.
• Insulation and sound insulation. This stage applies to all types of bathtubs, except cast iron, which already heat up well and retain heat for a long time. In addition, they do not make too much noise when filling. Heat and sound insulation should be carried out using polyurethane foam, which is applied not only to the bottom, but also to the sides of the sanitary ware. The amount of foam directly depends on the size of the bath.

• Installation. For ease of use, any bathtub should be aligned relative to the horizon. During the installation process there is no need to lay down slopes, since this point is taken into account by the manufacturer when developing the bathtub. The support legs are equipped with screws for adjustment.
• Fastening. This stage also applies only to steel and acrylic bathtubs, since the cast iron product’s own weight is quite enough not to sag under the pressure of water and people. Fastening must be done using metal hooks, which are usually used for installing boilers. In addition, you can use special brackets supplied by the manufacturer with the bathtub. This fastening allows you to prevent depressurization during operation of the sanitary ware.
• Sealing joints. This stage is the last. This work can be done in several ways. In most cases, it will be advisable to use a white corner, but you can get by with self-adhesive border tape. If the gap between the bathtub and the wall is minimal, you can limit yourself to one bottle of sanitary silicone.

If you are installing a corner bathtub, you need to pay attention to whole line features. Such products come in rounded or oval shapes, and they must be mounted on a pre-prepared pedestal or wooden frame.

Important nuances

During the installation of the bathtub, you should be extremely careful so that the product can fully perform its functions and last as long as possible. Pay attention to the following points:

• the legs are mounted in such a way that the outlet element of the siphon (piping) can be installed into the sewer pipe without any problems;
• the bathtub must be installed with a slope;
• It is imperative to take into account the parallelism of the sides relative to the floor.

The tightness of the junctions between the bathtub and the sewer must be monitored. When planning to start using a plumbing fixture, you should fill the bathtub with 10 liters of cold and hot water.

If a bathtub with hydromassage or other electronic functions is installed, it is necessary to check the correctness of the additional communications.

When installing a bathtub, you should also take into account the main problems associated with the material from which the product is made. Acrylic options have the following disadvantages.

• When hot water is added, the walls of the sanitary ware begin to “play.” This is caused by the fact that heated acrylic walls lose their original rigidity.
• Legs - another one weak side acrylic sanitary ware. Standard legs don't offer impressive stability. Even if you set everything to the ideal level, you still won’t be able to save the situation.
• The bottom of such a bathtub feels great under light loads, but it can sag greatly due to its significant weight.
• When water is drawn in, a drumming effect occurs, caused by the thinness of the walls of the acrylic bathtub. This deficiency is noticeable in any bathtub, but in acrylic it is most pronounced.

Cast iron and steel bathtubs boast good thermal insulation, but acrylic options in this regard they leave much to be desired. Heated water quickly warms up the walls, but also cools them just as quickly. Decide this problem can be done using regular foam cylinders. In addition, this method allows you to solve the problem associated with soundproofing the bathtub.

Foaming is carried out as follows:

• the bathtub is turned upside down, and cardboard or other protective material is placed under it (this insert is needed to prevent the acrylic surface from being scratched);
• the surface is cleaned of dust and dirt;
• foam is applied and residues are removed from the surface.

It is much more economical and comfortable to use a foam gun, but if you don’t have one, you can limit yourself to a simple cylinder.

To ensure the durability and efficiency of the entire structure, you should choose the material of the drain fittings wisely.

Most of the products on the market are made of polyvinyl chloride or propylene, which are reliable, attractive in appearance and durable. Latest material much more expensive, but the walls are smoother, which greatly reduces the likelihood of blockages.

The idea of ​​purchasing cheap models of drain fittings should be abandoned immediately. The fact is that budget models non-removable, so they are not suitable for repair. After just a couple of months of use, the rust grabs the bolt so tightly that it is impossible to unscrew it.

You should not buy a rigid pipe. An excellent solution would be a corrugated hose, which is extremely easy to install and guarantees excellent water permeability. Thanks to this, you can be sure that the bathroom will not flood.

Dismantling

If the bath has expired, the siphons have rusted or become unsuitable for use, it is better to replace the old bowl with a new one.

Initially, it seems that this is quite simple and does not require professional skills, but it is extremely difficult to remove the bathtub correctly so as not to damage the enamel or other parts of the product. You need to proceed as follows:

• Make sure the bathtub legs are securely fastened, since during dismantling the plumbing product may fall and damage a person’s fingers. This may well happen if one of the legs is rotten or deformed. To fix the supports, special wedges should be used, which must be secured properly.
• Now you can begin to disconnect the siphon and drains. The drainage structure is usually disassembled quite easily, but there are cases when it is made of the same material as the bathtub. As a result of long-term use, the parts may rust to each other, so dismantling can only be done with the help of an angle grinder.
• The perimeter of the bath is secured with a cement-sand mortar. To get rid of the connecting layer, you can use a hammer or hammer drill. The frozen solution must be beaten off as carefully as possible so as not to damage the tiles.
• Once the bathtub is detached from the wall, you can begin the next stage of dismantling. The bathtub is moved away from the wall using a pry bar, which is used as a lever.

In this case, the weight of the structure must be taken into account. Do not forget that it greatly exceeds the weight of an acrylic or iron product.

It is much more difficult to dismantle a cast iron bathtub if it is necessary to maintain its integrity and attractive appearance. This type of plumbing fixtures is large in size and significant in weight, so dismantling it yourself will not be possible. Over the years of use, the bathtub is so firmly fixed to the wall and floor covering that it is extremely difficult to remove it.

Cast iron bathtubs can last a very long time, which is why they are in great demand. Beginning dismantling work, determine whether it can be restored protective covering or not. There are many ways to significantly extend the life of a bathtub; one of the most effective and in demand recently is the use of an acrylic liner. The complexity of restoration work depends on a number of factors, including the weight and dimensions of the model.

The above instructions are designed to dismantle the product with minimal deterioration in the appearance of the room itself. This only means replacing plumbing equipment.

If you decide to spend major renovation bathroom (with the replacement of all communications and plumbing fixtures), then you don’t have to worry about the integrity of the product.

Dismantling without saving the bowl will be faster, since the algorithm of actions is very simple. The only thing you will need to pay attention to is safety precautions, because with the wrong approach you can damage your legs or arms.

To clean the bathtub, you need to carry out the following work:

• First, you should disconnect the siphon from the plumbing fixture itself. This can be done using a regular grinder.
• Using a hammer drill, you need to disconnect the bathtub from the wall.
• Since the bathtub will not be used in the future, you can cut it into several parts. This will not only simplify the dismantling process, but will also allow you to remove it from the premises without any problems.
• You can hit the bottom with a sledgehammer. Usually one good blow is enough for the product to split into several parts. You can effectively disassemble a bathtub into several fragments thanks to gas cutting.
• If dismantling is carried out by one person, the bath should be divided into many parts. Cast iron models are quite heavy, so each piece will be quite heavy.

When starting work, first of all pay attention to the material from which the sanitary ware is made. This will help you choose the most suitable dismantling method.

So, it can be noted that installing a bathtub is a complex and responsible process that requires a competent approach and care. It is important not only to choose the right plumbing fixture, but also to professionally prepare the room for its installation. In the selection process, you should pay attention to the material, size and shape of the product, as well as its manufacturer.

You should move steel and plastic plumbing products with extreme care, because such coatings can be damaged and deformed. The easiest way to work is with a cast iron bathtub, which is so heavy and durable that it is almost impossible to break. However, improper transportation can cause damage to the wall or door in the bathroom, as well as increased pressure on the floors. All this is also complicated by the fact that the installation of the bath takes place in small room, where it is extremely difficult for two people to fit.

One of the most important conditions for self-installation of a bathroom, it is necessary to have a skilled assistant who can support the sanitary product, supply necessary tools and provide other necessary assistance. When installing this type of plumbing, you must be careful and careful, because an accidentally dropped bathtub can lead to a crack or breakage. If cast iron models can somehow be revived, then damaged acrylic product cannot be repaired, so it will have to be replaced.