Doing repairs yourself is a very responsible business. Of course, the easiest way is to turn to specialists, but in this case you will have to spend a lot of money, and this is a huge minus in family budget. To save money, you can do the repairs yourself. And one of the easiest jobs will be to do the wallpapering yourself.
In order for the gluing to be done efficiently and without flaws, it is necessary to carry it out according to the planned plan, having first studied the technology of the process and all the tools that are necessary for it.
Preparing the room for wallpaper
When starting to decorate the walls with wallpaper, you first need to clear the room of unnecessary objects: take out the furniture, clear the walls of paintings (if any). So now you can bring the rolls into the room.
Preparing walls for wallpapering
Quite an important stage. It is necessary to thoroughly clean the walls from the previous layer of decorative coating.
When removing old wall coverings, the following problems may occur: 
- if it is impossible to remove old wallpaper from the wall, then you can use alkyd primer paint, after diluting it with white spirit in a ratio of 1:3;
- In some cases, it can be very difficult to remove dirt, oil and grease stains, as well as fungal infections from surfaces: this problem can be solved by rubbing with a dry, lint-free cloth soaked in acetone or pure form gasoline.
Particular attention should be paid to the presence of cracks on the wall. If they are present, they should be primed with plaster or cement mortar. For more thorough bonding to the wall, existing defects must be moistened with water and then the prepared mixture must be applied.
When preparing walls for wallpapering, you should putty the surface, then prime the completely dry walls. The better and smoother the putty, the fewer problems there will be when gluing wallpaper.
From proper preparation walls will depend on the final result. After all, if the walls are poorly cleaned of old decor and the cracks are not sealed, then all this will be reflected in the wallpaper.
Glue selection
Depends on this stage appearance wallpapered wall. After all, even expensive wallpaper will be ruined by the appearance of unadhered joints. To prevent this from happening, you need to choose the right glue.
Types of wallpaper glue:
The first type of glue is mainly necessary for additional gluing of joints between wallpaper; it is very convenient for gluing hard-to-reach places. This glue is also used for ceiling borders.
In construction supply stores, depending on the wallpaper covering, you can find the following types of dry wallpaper glue:
- universal glue - this type of glue requires diluting it with water: as a rule, it is prepared taking into account the choice of coating - if it is heavy wallpaper, then the consistency of the glue should be thicker, and if the wallpaper is paper, then it should be more liquid;
- adhesive for vinyl wallpaper - designed specifically for this type of coating;
- for non-woven wallpaper - this glue can be used for vinyl coverings based on non-woven fabric;
- adhesive for textile coverings;
- glue for velor wallpaper;
- for glass wallpaper.
Of course, first of all, before diluting the dry glue mixture with water, you need to read the instructions on the package and follow them, taking into account the type of wallpaper chosen.
The main rule to remember is that dilution is carried out by adding the dry mixture to water, and not vice versa. In this case, the solution must be stirred construction mixer or simply with a long stick. The solution is considered ready when there are no lumps in the resulting mixture. On modern store shelves you can also find glue with an indicator. This type very convenient, as its pale pink color helps you see where the adhesive solution is applied and where you should go over it again with a brush or roller.
So, the room is free of furniture, paintings and photographs are removed from the walls and put away in a dry, clean place, children and pets are sent on a short vacation to their relatives. Let's start the process. If you are gluing for the first time, call someone for help, it is more convenient to do it together. But even without outside help, hanging wallpaper for the first time in your life with your own hands can turn out almost perfect if you follow our advice.
We stock up on tools and materials
Before you start moving and removing furniture, you need to stock up on tools and materials. Here is the first “short” list of what you will need:- Actually wallpaper and glue
- Wide and narrow spatulas for removing wallpaper and puttying work
- Containers for water or special liquid for removing wallpaper: old wallpaper can be easily removed from the walls if you first wet it properly
- Container for diluting glue
- A special mixture or putty for leveling walls. Sometimes old wallpaper comes off with small pieces of plaster, cracks and unevenness are found underneath - these holes must be repaired and leveled
- Sandpaper to finally level the wall
- Primer or primer (special solution for treating walls before gluing)
- Screwdriver, hammer, pliers for dismantling sockets, baseboards and other things
- Scissors, or preferably a sharp wallpaper or stationery knife for trimming the edges of wallpaper
- Tape measure for measuring desired length canvases
- A level or thread with a weight at the end (plumb) for leveling the wallpaper vertically
- A large wide brush or foam roller for applying glue and a couple of smaller brushes. It is convenient to apply glue to wallpaper and walls with a wide brush or roller, and with a small one to coat hard-to-reach places: corners, protrusions, places behind radiators, etc.
- Soft plastic spatula
- Soft rags. A large dry rag - for smoothing the wallpaper. A damp, clean cloth - to remove excess glue
- Stepladder or construction sawhorses
Counting the amount of wallpaper and glue
How much should I take? Let's count the rolls. Most often, rolls with a width of 53 and 106 cm are available for sale. They are also called “half-meter” and “meter-long”. European manufacturers also produce wallpaper with a width of 68 cm. The length of the canvas per roll is 10.05 m. It is most common. Vinyl wallpaper with a width of 53 cm is sometimes sold in rolls of 15 m, and non-woven wallpaper for painting a meter wide is also supplied in 25-meter rolls. Remember school course geometry, we take a tape measure in our hands, measure the room and calculate the perimeter by summing the length of all the walls. For example, for a room measuring 3x4 m, the perimeter will be 3+4+3+4=12 m. Multiply the perimeter by the height of the ceilings. We subtract the area of windows and doors from this and get total area wall.S=(a*b)-((c*d)+(e*f)). S - the required area of the walls of the room, a - the perimeter of the room, b - the height of the ceiling, c - the width of the window, d - the height of the window, e - the height of the doorway, f - the width of the doorway. We calculate the number of stripes as follows: divide the perimeter of the room by the width of the roll . For example, we divide our 12 m perimeter by the roll width of 0.53 m. We get 22.6. Round up and get 23 stripes. For wallpaper with large ornament or a pattern that needs to be combined, designers recommend multiplying the perimeter by a factor of 1.18 when calculating. We calculate further. The length of one roll is most often 10 m. The height of our room is 2.50 m. For convenience, we need to add another 10 cm to the ceiling height. Thus, we get a strip height of 2.65 m. If we divide the length of the roll (10 m) by this number (2.65 m), then we get 3 full stripes from one roll of wallpaper. Don’t worry about the remainder: they can perfectly cover the space above and below the window or above the door. 
Be sure to take one or two rolls to spare. Even a super-professional can easily ruin one or two pieces of wallpaper. It happens. If they are not useful, then whole unpacked rolls can be returned to the store within three weeks after purchase (if you, of course, kept the receipt and labels). The amount of glue is also determined by the area of the walls. For different types Wallpaper apply different types glue. For paper wallpaper, any universal wallpaper is suitable; for non-woven or vinyl wallpaper, you need glue intended only for this type of wallpaper. Any box of glue is equipped with instructions that tell you how to dilute the mixture, in what proportion, and for what area it will be enough. Preparing the walls
So, the materials have been purchased, the tools have been prepared. Now you can get to work. We start by preparing the walls. 1. Remove the old coating
If wallpaper was pasted on the walls, remove it. In order for old wallpaper to be easily removed, you need to wet it thoroughly. We take a rag or sponge in our hands and wet the wallpaper generously. You can use a special water sprayer - the same as you spray houseplants or moisten the laundry while ironing. Washable wallpaper needs to be cut a little so that moisture gets into the bottom layer. Attention: before removing old wallpaper with water, be sure to turn off the power so that moisture does not get into working sockets and switches. After the wallpaper gets wet, carefully remove the old panels. It takes five minutes for paper wallpaper to peel off, vinyl and non-woven fabric - a little more. If the wallpaper does not work, scrape it off with a spatula, being careful not to damage the wall. If the wall has been painted water-based paint or whitewashed lime mortar- wash away everything weak soap solution. Oil-based paint can be removed using special removal solutions old paint. They are sold in any construction supermarket. You can use coarse sandpaper and just scrape off the paint. If the paint does not come off, remove it with a spatula. 2. Level and prepare the wall
Even if you remove paint or wallpaper very carefully, the wall will have to be leveled and processed. Therefore, we remove the cracked plaster with a spatula. After this, we treat the wall with a primer solution and level it with putty or a special mixture for leveling. Primer - useful thing. It not only promotes better adhesion of the leveling mixture to the wall, but also performs an antibacterial function: its composition usually includes substances that prevent the formation of mold and mildew. If the damage to the wall is significant, it makes sense to plaster it again - it’s cheaper than leveling it with putty. After the putty or new plaster has dried, we treat the wall again with a primer or primer (a special solution based on PVA glue). We apply it to the wall with a roller or a wide brush, sparingly. On such a treated wall, the wallpaper will stick much stronger. Gluing wallpaper
First of all, prepare a place where you will measure, cut and apply wallpaper with glue. This could be a clean section of the floor or a piece of oilcloth spread on the floor. Prepare your tools so that they are always at hand. Dissolve the glue according to the instructions. Place a stepladder. And begin. - Unwind the roll and measure the fabric to the desired length. Cut it with sharp scissors or special sharp knife. Cut the wallpaper strictly horizontally, using a metal ruler for this. To avoid damaging the floor, place a large cutting board under the wallpaper where the cut is made.
- Carefully read the instructions that come with each roll. Some wallpapers require applying glue to the canvas, some to the surface of the wall, some to both the wall and the canvas. Spread the canvas on the floor or oilcloth and apply glue to it (if you are gluing paper or vinyl wallpapers)
- Let the wallpaper absorb the glue a little. Five to seven minutes will be enough. After this, carefully lift the wallpaper by the top edge and begin gluing
- Start gluing from the window. A window or other opening will be an excellent vertical reference. To align the wallpaper vertically, use a level. It is enough to level the first canvas, and glue the next ones, focusing on it
All types of wallpaper are always glued with the windows and doors closed. The room should be warm, about 20°C. Draft is the first enemy of fresh wallpaper. The glue dries very quickly in a draft, and in some places the wallpaper simply does not have time to stick.
- Carefully lift the canvas to the ceiling and glue it to the wall, pressing well. Carefully bring each subsequent canvas to the previous one (end-to-end or with a slight overlap, if the type of wallpaper allows it) and smooth it out. To smooth, use a soft spatula or a large dry cloth. Smooth from the middle of the canvas to its edges
- If air bubbles appear under the wallpaper, they need to be smoothed out by squeezing the air over the edges of the canvas. This must be done very carefully so as not to damage the wallpaper. If the air bubble cannot be squeezed out or there is a risk of tearing the wallpaper, pierce it with a needle and gently squeeze out the air
- Cover the corners with two sheets, connecting them slightly overlapping. If you paste a corner with one sheet, then with a high degree of probability folds will form in this corner or the wallpaper will completely fall away from the corner after drying.
- What to do with sockets and switches? First, turn off the electricity. Remove covers from all outlets and switches. After the canvas is pasted, carefully make a cross-shaped cut in the wallpaper at the place of the rosette. Bend the resulting corners and cut off the excess with sharp scissors.
After you have dealt with the sticking, close the room and try not to use it for at least a day. Do not open windows under any circumstances, do not create drafts, otherwise a short time your new wallpaper will peel off the wall with a nasty crunch.
When choosing wallpaper, consider the type of room and the condition of the walls. For the living room, bedroom, corridor and other rooms where the walls are dry and smooth, any type of wallpaper is suitable. For rooms with high humidity: kitchen, bathroom and toilet - choose washable vinyl wallpaper. Flaws uneven walls will hide embossed wallpaper, as well as wallpaper with large cells or a dense pattern.
To trim the edges smoothly above the baseboard and below the ceiling, do this before the glue dries. Use a spatula as a stop and keep the cutter horizontally, otherwise the paper may accidentally tear. Useful life hack: to avoid scraping hardened glue from the knife, rinse it before cutting the edges hot water.
Beginners are generally intimidated by wallpapering, and when they see a battery that cannot be removed, this is a real reason to panic. In fact, everything is not so scary: cut the wallpaper in the places where the pipes are supplied and the battery is attached, stick the wallpaper according to the instructions above, and smooth out the unevenness with a mop wrapped in a clean rag, remove traces of glue. Done, you are amazing!
That's all. As you can see, wallpapering is not as scary a process as it seems at first. Only those who don't try fail. We wish everything goes well and easily for you!
2. Glue (special - for non-woven wallpaper). “We took PUFAS - this is an adhesive that does not leave marks on the wallpaper, mixes easily without leaving lumps. There is also ready-made glue on sale, but sometimes it has to be diluted with water, especially when the room is hot and the humidity is low. In such conditions "The glue is quickly absorbed and you don't have time to work with it. That's why I prefer dry compounds that can be diluted to suit your needs.".
3. Painting knife with replaceable retractable blades. “In good knives, the blade should be firmly fixed and not wobble during operation.”. The dull edge of the blade must be broken off immediately, otherwise it will not be possible to cut the wallpaper accurately.
4. Wallpaper spatula, or special rubber rollers for smoothing wallpaper (wide and narrow), or a piece of rag. “It’s more convenient to work with a spatula: it’s easier to smooth out the wallpaper and remove air from under the glued sheets. For thin wallpaper or with a delicate relief pattern, choose a soft wallpaper spatula.”.
5. Plaster spatulas (large and small), with which the wallpaper will be trimmed.
6. A container with water for mixing glue.
7. Tray for ready diluted glue.
8. Roller and brush for applying glue to the wall.
9. A screwdriver with an attachment, a piece of lath or other available material for mixing glue.
10. A clean, damp sponge to remove any glue that has accidentally fallen onto already pasted wallpaper.
11. A building level or plumb line, a tape measure, as well as a simple pencil for drawing the vertical line before gluing the first canvas.
12. Syringe - will be needed to “treat” the wallpaper if bubbles appear on the walls after it dries.
Stages of work
1. Wallpaper should be glued to putty and well-primed walls. It is important that the primer is completely dry. “Sometimes there is iron protruding from the walls - it needs to be covered oil paint, preferably white. If this is not done, a rusty stain will appear on the wallpaper over time.".
“It is also undesirable for the walls to be treated with different primers, since the adhesive’s absorption and permeability will be different. If the walls are primed equally, then the wallpaper will adhere equally well.”.
It is recommended to work on the walls after finishing the ceiling, but not vice versa. Laying tiles on the floor and other dirty work is also done before wallpapering. If flooring already exists, then it should be covered with cardboard, film or other materials.
2. Immediately before wallpapering, the walls should be additionally primed with glue. The glue for the primer should be slightly thinner than for gluing. It is especially important to prime the walls with glue in hot weather, as well as when gluing thick wallpaper.
Important! Wallpaper should be glued in a room with closed windows. And after gluing, you should not open the windows for at least another day.
3. You need to start gluing wallpaper from a large wall and finish in inconspicuous places (under the window sill, behind furniture, etc.), where you can use pieces of wallpaper if there are not enough whole canvases.
The first strip is glued from the corner. In order for the wallpaper to lie flat, you need to set it vertically using a level. To do this, a level is applied strictly vertically to the wall and a line is drawn under it. "It is not necessary to run it from the ceiling to the floor. It is enough to make it 1-1.5 m long".
“The line must be laid at a certain distance from the corner: from the extreme protruding point, by the width of the tube minus 0.5-1 cm. In this way, a small reserve is made for all the unevenness of the corner, because in our houses the walls are rarely perfect, they are often piled up one way or the other, or even both at once".
If the apartment has round corners, then the vertical line is placed in the middle of the corner, and gluing begins from this place.
4. Let's start diluting the glue. “Pour water into a bucket and little by little, over about a minute, add a pack of glue, stirring as you do so. Let the glue sit for a while, swell, then stir it again and leave the glue for a few minutes again.”.
When preparing glue, it is allowed to deviate slightly from the instructions and make the consistency thicker or thinner. “As a rule, for heavy wallpaper, the glue is made thicker. By the way, such wallpaper is good because it is dense, does not get wet, and is easier to move. Proof that the glue has the desired consistency is that the wallpaper moves effortlessly when glued, and this is especially important when selecting a pattern. That is, the glue should be such that it is easy to work with".
The finished glue is poured into a tray: this will make it more convenient to put glue on the roller and squeeze out the excess.
“If you didn’t have time to glue the wallpaper at once, you can postpone the work: the diluted glue can stand for a day or two. It’s better to cover it only during the pause. If the glue thickens, stir it. But if it’s of poor quality and starts to emit bad smell, which means it has spoiled, and in this case it is better to mix fresh glue.".
5. When working with non-woven wallpaper, you need to apply glue not to the canvas, but to the wall. "Using a roller, apply glue evenly to the wall within the limits of gluing the next canvas, going a little over neighboring areas. There shouldn't be too much glue on the wall.".
6. Next, a roll of wallpaper is placed against the wall, unrolled, and the canvas rises up. A small reserve is left for the ceiling - a safety net in case of crooked walls and ceilings. Alignment is performed relative to the previously marked vertical. When the edge of the canvas and the drawn line coincide, the wallpaper, starting from the place of alignment, is smoothed by hand. Gradually the middle is pressed and then the opposite edge of the canvas.
Wallpaper can be cut into strips in advance, before gluing. The length of the canvas in this case should be equal to the actual height of the ceilings. The excess will be cut off, and if at the bottom it turns out that the wallpaper does not reach the floor slightly, this will hide the baseboard.
7. We make trimming at the top and bottom. To do this, we place a large spatula at the junction of the wall and the ceiling (floor), almost parallel to the wall, and under it, like under a ruler, we cut off the excess with a sharp knife. When we have run a knife along the entire length of the spatula, we remove the cut piece of wallpaper. In this case, we do not remove the spatula: if the canvas is not cut off in some place, we use the knife again. In corners and others hard to reach places We work with a small spatula.
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“If the ceiling is suspended or has a baseboard made of polystyrene foam, trimming should be done as carefully and carefully as possible. Stretch ceiling Just touch it with the tip of a knife and a hole will form.".
8. After the canvas has been leveled and pre-leveled with your hands, the wallpaper needs to be smoothed and all air and bubbles removed from under it. This is done with a wallpaper spatula: first, the middle of the canvas is pressed with straight movements from top to bottom, then in a “herringbone pattern” (from the middle, to the sides and down) the edges are smoothed. The wallpaper joints and corners are smoothed with a little more effort.
"Thus, we move from top to bottom. When we see or feel with our hands a bubble with air and glue, we expel it to the edge of the canvas. It is better to remove glue from the wallpaper immediately - with a kitchen sponge soaked in water. Although, if the glue is of high quality, when it dries on the wallpaper becomes invisible, but is noticeable on painted ceilings. All work must be done with clean hands.".
9. While the wallpaper is being smoothed in one place, the glue may dry out in another. Then you need to lift the canvas and, under it, additionally coat the wall with a brush with glue, then lower the wallpaper and smooth and press it again.
10. If a fold has formed when smoothing the wallpaper, you need to lift a piece of canvas up to this fold and re-glue it.
11. The next strip is glued according to the same principle as the first. The canvases are connected vertically strictly end-to-end. “If the walls are crooked, you can moisten them with more glue: the wallpaper will absorb it and begin to stretch, due to which you will be able to accurately join the edges of the canvases and smooth out the curvature of the walls. You can’t do this dry.”.
“Sometimes wallpaper comes off over time, the edges rise. To prevent this from happening, you should always additionally coat the wall with a brush under the edges of the canvases and press them well in these places. There should be enough glue along the edges; the excess should be removed with a spatula.”.
Important! Wallpapering with a pattern requires special attention.
After gluing the first strip, coat the wall with glue for the second strip. Next, we substitute the tube, unwind it, lift the upper edge of the canvas to the ceiling and move it until the pattern matches. We join the edges of the canvases, smooth the wallpaper with our hands, make trimming at the top and bottom. Then smooth the wallpaper with a spatula.
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If there is a piece that is too long on top, a preliminary trim is made with a margin, and after smoothing, a final trim is made.
"Cutting" the switches
Trimming in the place of installation of removed sockets and switches: we feel for the voids with our hands and make cuts in the form of crosses with a knife. We do the final trimming on dry wallpaper (wet wallpaper is more difficult to cut). To do this, place a small spatula on the edge of the socket box, and under it, like under a ruler, all excess is cut off around the perimeter of the socket box.
Trimming pipes
Trimming around pipes requires more care. The operating procedure is as follows. We apply the canvas to the wall with pre-applied glue up to the pipe (if it is on top), from there we make an incision under a small spatula downwards. Its length should correspond to the distance from the ceiling to the pipe. If the incision is short, it is lengthened. Next, at the lower point of the cut, we make a small longitudinal cut, and the canvas is finally raised to the ceiling. After the wallpaper has been leveled, we make a rough “star” trim near the pipe under the spatula. After the final alignment of the canvas, a final trim is made under a small spatula along the pipe.
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Near the window
At the window, wallpaper can be glued from pieces or from a single strip. In the second case, trimming will need to be done along the slopes and window sill.
The beginning of gluing is standard: glue is applied to the wall, a tube of wallpaper is placed, the roll is unwound, applied to the wall, the edge is aligned with the adjacent canvas, the wallpaper is smoothed by hand. Next, trimming is done along the window opening: the blade (very sharp) extends to maximum length, the canvas is pierced with it and trimmed around the perimeter (without a spatula). “If you have an extra couple of millimeters left, you can remove them the next day: sharpen them along the slope using sandpaper. This should be done on dry wallpaper. You won't be able to remove excess on wet ones.".
In the corner
The first strip overlaps slightly with the adjacent wall, forming an overlap. The second strip is glued in the same way. If the overlap of two canvases is small, then it is enough to smooth and press the canvases well, and if the overlap is large, then you will need to make additional trimming. Otherwise, the angle will look sloppy.
Trimming in the corner is done as follows: a spatula is placed in the corner, parallel to the wall with the top sheet. Next, use a knife to make a cut, in two layers at the same time. Then the cut piece is removed from the top sheet, after which the top sheet is folded back, and the trimmings from the bottom are pulled out.
The next stage: applying glue with a brush in the very corner and gluing the canvases. “You need to use a lot of glue in the corners, as these places can freeze and the wallpaper will start to come off.”. Better wallpaper Pull it a little and make an overlap of 1-2 mm in the corner.
“If you need to glue a narrow strip of wallpaper in a corner, then you can cut the canvas to the required width like this: roll the wallpaper of the required length into a tube, place it on a hard place, measure the width and then use a knife to like breadThe whole roll is cut at once".
12. If the wallpaper still swells after drying, it can be “treated.” "Take a syringe with a needle and put wallpaper glue into it. The glue should be more liquid than for gluing, so that it can pass through the needle. In the place of the bubble, where there is air and the wallpaper has not stuck, make a hole, release the air, inject glue there and smooth the canvas".
When purchasing a new living space or evaluating their current premises, many begin to think about what would be a good idea to carry out renovations to make the premises more comfortable for living.
And here quite often the question arises: what is needed for wallpapering? Not everyone has everything in their home necessary tools, and therefore you have to spend hours wandering through hardware stores in search of the necessary equipment to carry out construction work.
Required Tools
Tools can make the wallpapering process much easier It is sometimes difficult for a beginner to navigate the huge selection of tools and their pricing policy. Eyes widen, and there are more and more questions every minute. And hanging wallpaper with your own hands seems like something unrealistic.
To avoid such situations, you must first decide what kind of wallpaper is needed. Having selected a certain type of wall covering, you can confidently buy tools and additional materials.
When purchasing the necessary equipment in the store, it is worth considering that you will need not only tools for applying glue and cutting wallpaper, but also special compounds to remove the old coating, if any. Also you can’t do without aids for leveling and filling walls.
Basic tools needed to work with wallpaper:
- Painting bath.
- Wallpaper roller.
- Construction tape.
- Level.
- Roller for wallpaper joints, etc.
Purpose of the instruments
Before you start working with wallpaper, you should clarify how these tools are used, what each of them is intended for and how to use them correctly.
It is more convenient to apply glue with a medium pile roller Painting bath. Intended for wallpaper glue, its size must correspond to the size. It comes with a corrugated surface and a smooth recess. To evenly distribute the glue over the surface, the roller must be rolled several times along the grooved side.
A paint roller is needed to apply glue to a strip of wallpaper. It is available with long and medium pile. A roller with medium-length bristles is considered more convenient to use.
Rubber roller. This tool is not used for applying glue, but only for leveling the surface of already glued wallpaper. It will help smooth out all the unevenness and air bubbles that often appear when gluing wall coverings.
Needed when working with thin wallpaper, when using a spatula is not recommended. Roller yellow color used when there is a relief pattern on the wallpaper.
The black roller is applied to a smooth wall covering that cannot be damaged during operation.
Additional tools
Experienced owners can get by minimum set tools Roller for corners. This tool is equipped with a special roller that helps press the canvas against the wall in hard-to-reach places, especially in the corners of the room.
Bucket. Wallpaper glue is diluted in it. It is advisable that the bucket be equipped with a lid; this will allow you to store the adhesive mixture in a cool place for several days.
Drill. If you don’t have a construction mixer at hand, you can safely use a drill to stir glue or putty, the main thing is to choose a suitable attachment.
Pencil. You can't do without it when working with wallpaper. With its help, you can apply markings to the wall and mark the desired length of the canvas. Construction stores sell special pencils for builders, but if this is not available, any other dark color will do.
Exposed wires can be wrapped with electrical tape Insulating tape. During repair work Sockets and switches are often unscrewed, which exposes the wires. For safety, they must be insulated with electrical tape.
Ruler. It is necessary in measuring the length and width of the wallpaper. It is worth remembering that you need to leave 5 cm to adjust the sheet.
Scissors. Serve for trimming wall coverings to the right size.
A wide brush is convenient for coating the canvas and the wall In this work you will need two types of brushes: a wide and a narrow brush. Using a wide brush, coat the surface of the wall and wallpaper with glue, and a narrow brush is used to apply glue in the corners and at the joints between the covering and the ceiling.
Plumb. How evenly the wallpaper is glued to the wall depends on the use of a plumb line. Should fix it top part at the top, the weight should dangle, use a pencil to draw a line along the plumb line.
Auxiliary tools for wallpapering
Square. This tool is convenient if you need to cut out some geometric figures from wallpaper. With its help you can easily cope with this task.
Construction mixer. It will easily stir adhesive composition any thickness.
Level. Very important tool. You won't be able to glue wallpaper onto the wall without it.
Construction tape. Used for measuring surfaces.
Wallpaper knife. This knife is very sharp, which allows it to cut fabric of any thickness. It has metal plates that can be easily broken off and replaced. Buy spare blades in advance. 
Wallpaper spatula. It is made of plastic. This is a lightweight and durable tool. Necessary for pressing already pasted wallpaper onto the wall. They level the canvas and get rid of air bubbles. This tool gets the job done even in hard-to-reach places.
A sharp paint spatula is convenient for trimming wallpaper near the ceiling. Painting spatula. With its help, you can easily trim the canvas evenly at the ceiling and in the floor area, you just need to press it tightly against the wall.
The sponge should be soft enough. Use it to wipe off excess glue. Do not wipe the wallpaper itself, it may be damaged.
Clean rag. You should moisten a rag in water, wring it out well and wipe the canvas with it, cleaning it from streaks, stains and excess glue. Best fit soft fabric. Detailed review for tools, watch this useful video:
Preparing the walls
Putty will improve the adhesion of the canvas to the base When all the necessary tools have been purchased, wallpaper is a must; the result of the repair itself largely depends on this. Conduct a diagnosis of the walls, decide where they need putty.
If the walls are initially covered with wallpaper, then it is best to completely remove them. For this purpose, special compounds are used, which are sold in hardware stores. You can prepare this solution yourself, just mix it liquid soap with hot water and add a little wallpaper glue. After treating the walls with this mixture, you need to wait until the old wallpaper becomes limp, then you can easily remove it with a spatula. If the wallpaper is corrugated, then you need to make cuts with a knife so that they are better saturated.
If the walls are covered with paint, use a drill with a special grater attachment. A spatula and soap solution will help.
Then, if necessary, we level the walls with plaster and be sure to. To make the coating even, it is worth sanding the walls. This process is quite dirty and dusty, use a respirator. Detailed information about wall preparation in this video:
The final step in preparing the walls is to coat them with a primer. It is needed for better adhesion of the glue to the walls and protection against mold. Primed walls absorb much less glue.
Methods for wallpapering
The hardest place to wallpaper is in the corner of a room. The basic technology of wallpapering is applicable to all types of wall coverings; only a few nuances differ. It is necessary to consider each type of wallpaper separately.
Paper wallpaper Quite often used for wall decoration. We cut the wallpaper to the length we need. Do not forget to leave 5-10 cm for allowances. Using the first cut strip, measure and cut off the next ones; if there is a pattern on the wallpaper, combine the stripes so that the patterns match.
We coat the wall space and the wallpaper strips with glue. We start gluing the wall covering from the corner of the room. Paper wallpaper is glued with an overlap. To make the joints less noticeable, one canvas should overlap the other by 1-2 cm. For a better fit, do not forget to use a wallpaper roller. We cut off the extra centimeters of the canvas, press the spatula against the wall and cut off the unnecessary paper with a wallpaper knife.
Use a soft, clean cloth to remove any remaining glue. Let the wallpaper dry, try to completely avoid drafts in the room, it is better not to open the windows, as this will affect the quality of the repair, the wallpaper may come off the wall.
It is important not to forget about the special markings that are on each roll; this table will help you understand the symbols.
Vinyl and non-woven wallpaper
Glue the fabrics end to end We cut the canvas to the required length. Let's customize the drawing. Cover the wall with glue and glue the wallpaper to it. This wall covering is glued joint to joint.
We do not use a spatula; it will spoil the surface and damage the design. For such wallpaper you only need a rubber roller. Let the wall covering dry for 36 hours.
Such wallpaper has a special base; when using glue, it does not smudge. The adhesive mixture is applied only to the walls.
Liquid wallpaper
After drying liquid wallpaper they are coated with primer This type of wallpaper appeared on the market not so long ago, but has already gained popularity. Before you start working with such material, you need to prepare the walls. They must be puttied and covered with water-based paint in several layers, it is advisable to choose White color, it's perfect as a base.
After the paint has dried, the walls are coated with a special primer for liquid wallpaper; it should not be neglected, otherwise the quality of the coating will decrease.
The next step is mixing the wallpaper mass. We take a clean plastic bucket, pour wallpaper powder into it and dilute it with water, according to the instructions, mix the mixture with a construction mixer. Let the mixture swell and wait 30 minutes.
This mixture should be applied to the walls as follows: place a small ball of the resulting mass on a spatula and level it over the wall.
The layer should be even and not exceed 2 cm, otherwise the wallpaper will become covered with bubbles when it dries.
We cover the entire surface of the walls of the room.
The wallpaper mixture can be stored in a bucket with tightly closed lid for three days, if necessary, can be diluted with water. The walls should dry for about 3-4 days, drafts and temperature changes should be avoided.
Textile wallpaper
Gluing textiles requires a professional approach It is best to entrust work with this type of wallpaper to professionals. But if you want to glue them yourself, then you should take into account some nuances.
This type of wall covering has different basis. If it is paper, then glue is applied both to the wall and to the canvas. If it is non-woven, then only the walls are glued. When working with them, it is forbidden to bend the canvas; traces from them cannot be corrected later.
It is also important not to cover them with glue; it is immediately absorbed and stains remain on the wallpaper. Only a rubber roller is used for this work. This wall covering should dry at room temperature about three days.
Mistakes when gluing wallpaper
It often happens that beginners and others make a number of mistakes when gluing wallpaper to walls. This table describes some of them and gives tips on how to avoid them. For more information about standard errors, watch this video:
This information will help you easily carry out repairs in any room and hang wallpaper without complications or problems.
Construction is a responsible business. And often we are accustomed to turning to specialists for help who raise prices for their services. Is it really impossible to bypass some points, save money and do some of the repairs yourself? As practice shows, it is not only possible, but also necessary. And most easy option, which anyone can handle - wallpapering with your own hands.
The most important thing in this matter is to keep it right this process, do not get lost and carry out the entire work process strictly according to plan.
You need to start by preparing the room where the wallpaper will be hung. First of all, remove everything unnecessary from the room, freeing up space for rolls. Then check if there is a pattern, check that it is aligned correctly, and arrange the wallpaper in sequence. The main thing is not to mix it up, otherwise you will have to buy an additional roll.
The next step is to prepare a tool for wallpapering. There is no need to worry, the tools are ordinary, nothing specialized: a roller for applying glue; wallpaper cutting knife; a rag for removing excess glue from the wallpaper and a spatula for leveling the walls. Once the tool is assembled, you can move on.
Preparing walls for wallpapering is one of the most important processes that requires a special approach. The entire work as a whole depends on the result achieved at this stage.
Initially, the walls must be puttied to level out various potholes or bumps, and cracks and holes must be repaired so that concrete surface was almost “perfectly” smooth, at least to the touch. Let it sit until everything dries. After this, all switches and sockets should be removed. Installing them after the wallpaper has been pasted will give a more correct and aesthetic appearance.
At the stage of preparing the walls, you will need both putty and primer, and do not hesitate to apply them to the walls, the smoother the surface, the better the wallpaper will lie.
When the walls are ready, the rolls lie under your feet, and the tool is firmly clenched in your hands, the most main process, for the sake of which everything was started - DIY wallpapering. The rolls need to be rolled out to the length we need and the first strip cut off with a knife (or scissors). Apply sequentially, following the pattern, or simply, joint to joint.
It should be remembered that there are different types of glue, and it is worth studying it carefully before applying it to a particular surface. It is not advisable to apply the adhesive that is produced for walls first on the wallpaper; this may cause an incorrect “adhesion” reaction, and such wallpaper will not last long.
You should also pay attention to the fact that if you use non-woven wallpaper, then there are several important distinguishing points. Firstly, gluing wallpaper on a non-woven basis requires more careful alignment of the walls, secondly, corners that can wrinkle are the problematic area (it is better to cut in such places), and thirdly, it is important to remove the glue from all joints, otherwise it will later will give the wallpaper an unpleasant dark tint along the seams.
After applying any wallpaper to the wall, it is undesirable to open it in the room, thereby creating a draft. You need to wait two or three days until the glue finally sets.