Do-it-yourself above-ground cellar. Types of structures. General, wall and buried diagram. Work progress and equipment systems. How to build a cellar on the street: building a cellar with your own hands Techniques for building a cellar in a garden plot

Preface

Having a well-built cellar in a private home will help preserve vegetables and preserves until the next harvest. There are quite a few solutions for constructing such structures, but the most common is considered to be a cellar under the house.

Cellar or basement?

Reliably storing supplies throughout the winter is an important task for garden owners, so arranging space for potatoes and other vegetables must be done according to all the rules. In order to prevent the potatoes from sprouting and the lids on the jars from rusting, you will have to not only dig a hole. Ventilation, as well as waterproofing and interior decoration must meet certain requirements.

The main point from which all the differences between a cellar and a basement arise is the purpose of each structure. The basement is partially heated, so it is used as workshops, storage or other utility rooms, as well as garages, as can be seen in the photo. The structure, which is located under the house and is called a cellar, performs a different function, being a storage for:

• vegetables and fruits;
• jars of jam and pickles;
• homemade wine;
• barrels with sauerkraut, cucumbers or tomatoes.

It is necessary to maintain the appropriate temperature inside the cellar; ventilated drawers, shelves and racks are installed here, the successful placement of which is often photographed. The construction of a cellar, unlike a basement, requires less space, and its decoration can be quite simple and uncomplicated.

Is it possible to make a cellar in the basement?

If there is a cool basement under the floor of the house and the temperature in it remains relatively low even in the summer, you can allocate part of it to make storage for vegetables. This option is quite acceptable. But there’s no way to create a basement in the cellar, and you won’t even be able to find photos of such “transformations.”

To build a cellar under the house with your own hands in the basement area, you need to separate a smaller part of it wooden partition. Inside you will need to install shelving, make separate lighting and ventilation. To keep the cellar cool, you should install a thermal insulation layer. It is important that heated air does not enter inside, and the temperature is maintained at a level slightly above zero degrees, which is considered the optimal mode for the cellar. It is better if the storage facility has an individual descent and complete autonomy from the main basement. Finishing the cellar should include treating the walls with one of the following compounds:

• antifungal;
• slaked lime;
• copper sulfate.

For thermal insulation, choose polystyrene foam or glass insulation. In numerous photos posted on this site, you can see that the front trim is made from fiberboard or plywood sheets. To prevent soil from the cellar from entering the house, a layer of expanded clay, pebbles, or straw is placed on its floor.

Advantages of a cellar located under the house

Positive points in favor of the device vegetable storage directly under the house, quite a lot. First of all, there is no need to allocate a separate place for construction, which is especially important for small garden plots. IN winter period you don’t need to dress specially to get a jar of cucumbers or a few potatoes for borscht.

At high level groundwater does not need to be laid separately drainage system, which will require additional material investments. And only one pit will need to be made. It should be noted, however, that if the water level in the ground is high, it is not recommended to create a cellar located under the house, since it will be too damp, and during the period of snow melting, water will most likely appear in the vegetable storage. Although good waterproofing and underground drainage can correct the situation.

Construction of a cellar during the construction of a house

Responsible owners are concerned about the question of how to build a cellar located under the floor of the house correctly, so that no problems arise later, and its photo can be shown to friends. There can be only one answer here - it is necessary to carefully approach all stages of construction, starting from earthworks and ending with the installation of shelving. This structure must be erected at the stage of laying the foundation, since subsequently dismantling the floor and digging a deep and wide hole under it will be difficult and impractical. During the construction process you will need:

• dig a pit;
• build walls;
• perform waterproofing and, if necessary, thermal insulation;
• install the ceiling and hatch;
• make cellar ventilation under the house;
• fill the floor with sand or pour concrete;
• finish the internal surfaces;
• install drawers and shelves;
• build a ladder.

To prevent a “surprise” in the form of leaking water from accidentally appearing in the cellar during a flood or heavy, prolonged rainfall, before starting to dig a pit, you will need to find out at what level the groundwater lies. You can look into the nearest wells, and if there are none, drill a well at least 2.5 meters deep and wait a couple of days to see whether water appears in it or not.

The depth of the cellar is determined depending on the groundwater level (GWL), taking into account the requirements for its minimum depth of 1.8 meters. At shallower depths:

• it will be inconvenient to stay and move in the storage;
• the air temperature will rise 7–8 degrees higher, which will affect the preservation of vegetables.

Ideal option The distance from the groundwater horizon during the flood period to the cellar floor is considered to be at least a meter. For lower values, enhanced waterproofing of the walls and floor of the building or the construction of a separate semi-underground cellar will be required. Photos of similar buildings can be seen here. The optimal depth of the cellar under the house is considered to be 1.9–2.25 meters.

The storage area for vegetables must be at least five square meters. The dimensions of the pit are determined taking into account the thickness of the walls (25–30 cm) and cavities intended for applying waterproofing and devices with outside clay castle. The walls of the cellar are made from:

• monolithic reinforced concrete;
• red brick;
• cinder blocks;
• logs

After installing a sand cushion (up to 20 cm high), laying a layer of crushed stone (10 cm thick) and reinforcing mesh made of wire rod (0.6 cm in diameter), the floor in the cellar is poured with concrete. In this case, it is necessary to maintain the slope of the base towards the technical pit intended for collecting condensate or in case of groundwater.

Then the installation of heat, steam and waterproofing of the floor and hatch is carried out. This will avoid the appearance of excessive condensation on the ceiling, the penetration of cool air and a specific smell into the house. Simple finishing the cellar requires wall cladding wood materials, such as slab or lining. Look at the photo to see what it looks like in reality. To avoid the appearance of mold and rotting processes, they are treated with compounds containing an antiseptic.

An interesting fact is that finishing a cellar can be expensive and exclusive. For example, in the photo of wine cellars you can see that they are lined with natural expensive materials and decorated with exclusive elements. Inside there are chairs, tasting and chess tables, audio systems. And all this, if desired, can be done directly under your home.

Waterproofing

If water penetrates into the cellar, you do not have the slightest chance of saving the harvest. But water will not be able to get inside the storage facility if its walls and floor are well insulated, and all cracks and seams are hermetically sealed.

Roofing felt glued to hot bitumen is traditionally used as waterproofing. The inside of the walls and floor can also be treated with penetrating waterproofing mastics and coating mixtures that have good adhesion. Special additives are added to modern waterproofing compounds and masonry mortars to increase moisture resistance and help create a durable layer that prevents breakouts or punctures. When choosing waterproofing, it is recommended to give preference to coating materials.

In the case of groundwater lying close to the surface of the earth, it is necessary to install a high-quality drainage system that will remove moisture not only from the cellar, but also from the entire house.

Ventilation

The device itself better waterproofing will not save your home vegetable storage from the presence of increased moisture in the absence of ventilation. The resulting condensation has a negative effect on vegetables and fruits in boxes, nets and containers. To get rid of it, you will need to perform it correctly supply and exhaust ventilation cellar, the installation of which should be given Special attention. Signs that ventilation is inadequate include:

• stale, heavy air;
• the appearance of mold and mildew;
• feeling of dankness and dampness.

Ventilation is installed from two sections of pipes, which are located in opposite corners of the cellar. One of them, the exhaust one, is installed under the ceiling, and the other, the supply one, half a meter from the floor. Both pipes should go out to the street at the same level, but it is allowed for the top of the supply pipe to be lower.

For forced ventilation, an electric fan is installed in the exhaust pipe. Additionally helps remove unnecessary moisture quicklime, the bucket with which is placed in one of the corners of the building.

The cellar under the house is very convenient to use and pleases its owners in winter time of the year. In numerous photos posted on the Internet, you can see excellent examples of such premises. But for its proper functioning, a number of requirements must be met, including the installation of reliable waterproofing and ventilation. With the right approach, this is not a very difficult task, so you shouldn’t just place vegetables underground; it would be wiser to dig a full-fledged cellar.

Cellar - mandatory extension in the country or near a private house. In this room all year round the optimal temperature is maintained to preserve vegetables, fruits, preserves and preparations. It is quite possible to build a cellar yourself. To do this, it is necessary to assess the condition of the soil, determine the optimal type of structure, select materials and adhere to the chosen technology.

Requirements for arranging a cellar

The optimal place for canned food and grown crops is the cellar. This room maintains natural conditions and temperature regime about +4°C. A favorable microclimate is necessary to preserve the presentation and taste characteristics of fruits and vegetables.

Some people confuse the concepts of cellar and basement. However, these are completely different structures. The basement is located in the basement of the building. The cellar is arranged separately - separately on personal plot. The design is made invisible, or vice versa, acts as a bright element landscape design.

Practical use of vegetable storage is possible subject to certain conditions:

• the presence of a low temperature - the cellar is built underground or arranged in a basement in contact with external wall Houses;
• darkening - windows are excluded from the cellar design;
• constant filling with clean and fresh air thanks to natural and supply and exhaust ventilation;
• air humidity is about 80-90%.

Selecting the optimal design and materials

Depending on the depth of burial, the following types of cellars are distinguished.

Ground structure rises above the surface, the depth of the structure is no more than one meter. Essentially this is a small bin for vegetables. A storage shed can be erected anywhere, even in small lowlands.

Construction of a “garden” storage shed - optimal solution for waterlogged areas and low-lying areas. Distinctive feature above ground cellar - no ceiling. As a rule, it is arranged gable roof from boards. Thanks to this, the time and final cost of constructing a vegetable storage facility are reduced. An additional plus is the ease of building such a cellar with your own hands.

A more spacious above-ground cellar - externally the building resembles a small house. Earth is poured on top of the ceiling, covering the ceiling with a thick layer. Remains unprotected end side with a door. Planted on top of the backfill lawn grass, decorating the territory and keeping the soil from crumbling with its roots.

Semi-buried cellar- the most popular type of structure. The structure is externally similar to a ground structure, but part of the room (about 1.5 m) is located underground. Entrance door in the bins is located below the ground surface, so it is necessary to provide a system for draining melt/rain water. Door design thoroughly insulated.

Deep cellar well suited for compact areas. However, its construction is possible only when groundwater is low or with thorough drainage and waterproofing. The entrance can be covered with a heat-insulating removable cover or decorated with a special cellar - a small house with a hatch in the ceiling. Pogrebitsa can be used as a utility room for housing gardening equipment, various household items or vegetables.

The cellar walls are built from different materials: stone, brick, concrete or asbestos-cement sheets. It is not advisable to build a building from metal, since it is difficult to achieve a suitable temperature regime.

When using earth as the main material for the walls, the inside of the bin is lined with wood. The wooden slats must be thoroughly dried, sanded, treated with an antiseptic and dried again.

Making a cellar with your own hands: video on selecting materials

How to make a cellar with your own hands: recessed design

Assessment of terrain and soil conditions

The best location for the cellar is a hill, hillock or hill. Groundwater in such cases passes far from the surface of the earth. When placed on a hill, rainwater ingress is reduced. In addition, you will be able to save on waterproofing materials.

Many people prefer to build a cellar next to a residential building in order to quickly get to and take the necessary products during the cold season, in the rain, etc.

Before starting construction, you need to find out the type of soil and the possibility of constructing a buried/semi-buried vegetable storage facility. To do this, you need to do a little test:

1. At the site where the bin is being built, place a scrap of natural wool and a raw egg on top.
2. Cover the “structure” with a jar and leave for one night.
3. Evaluate the result of the experiment:
   • if the wool has dew droplets, then groundwater is located nearby;
   • if the egg and wool are dry, then the water is deep and you can safely start working.

Before building a cellar with your own hands, it is advisable to evaluate the type of soil:

1. Peat is the optimal type for bunding. This soil minimizes food spoilage, which is especially important when storing root crops.
2. Quicksand is heaving soil that is not suitable for building an “internal” cellar. This soil contains loam, sand and sandy loam. To be able to build a vegetable storage facility, you will have to replace the soil and add sand.
3. Sandy soil is well suited for arranging the foundation. This natural material is often added to reduce heaving and moisture content.

Materials and tools

To build a cellar in your country house with your own hands you will need:

• crushed stone and gravel;
• rack sand;
• clay mortar;
• rolls of roofing felt;
• brick;
• cement;
• boards for arranging the floor frame;
• concrete grade 100;
• molten bitumen;
• grid for reinforcement.

Tools you should prepare:

• concrete mixer;
• manual tamper;
• shovels;
• screws, screwdriver, nails, hammers;
• welding machine;
• grinder;
• primer;
• brush;
• hacksaw

Pit preparation

The construction of an underground storage facility begins with digging a pit. The work is performed in the following sequence:

1. Clear the area of ​​stones, sticks and vegetation.
2. Mark and dig a hole. Traditional cellar dimensions: length/width - 2.5 m, depth - 2.3 m. To dig a pit, it is better to use the services of an excavator.
3. Level the walls of the pit with a shovel, scraping off excess soil and giving them a flat surface.
4. The depth of the pit depends on the type of cellar being built. When determining this value, it is necessary to take into account that the space will be partially occupied by a hatch or entrance, shelving, and a ladder. In view of this, the pit must be dug with a certain reserve.
5. Compact the bottom of the pit, pour sand and gravel into the hole. The thickness of the sand cushion is 20 cm, the gravel cushion is 10 cm.

Arrangement of the subfloor

It is better to screed the floor using clay mortar. To prepare it, you need to combine clay and quartz sand in a ratio of 90%/10%. Dilute with water until it becomes thick sour cream. Pour the prepared solution into the gravel to a thickness of 3-4 cm.

To increase the strength characteristics of the base and provide better insulation from the penetration of groundwater, it is recommended to additionally strengthen the bin with concrete. Procedure:

1. Prepare a mixture of rack sand and concrete in a ratio of 5:1, respectively.
2. After drying, pour the clay base concrete mortar 5 cm thick.
3. Smooth the surface and leave until completely hardened.

Construction and waterproofing of walls

Construction technology brick walls next:

1. Build a foundation for the masonry with a width of 1 brick and a height of about 15 cm.
2. Leave the foundation to dry.
3. The laying is done from the corner of the wall where the doorway is provided.
4. The bricks are placed in a checkerboard pattern.
5. When laying brick, you need to tap it with the handle of a trowel - this will help get rid of excess mortar and improve the adhesion of the materials.
6. After the construction of each row, its evenness must be checked with a building level.
7. The working solution is prepared from sand and cement in a ratio of 4:1, respectively.
8. In parallel with the masonry, the cracks and spaces between the brick and the earthen wall are filled with clay mortar. This technology provides additional waterproofing for vegetable storage.
9. After all the walls have been erected, leave construction for 1 week until the mortar hardens.

Brick walls require waterproofing. For this purpose, hydroglass insulation, roll insulators or bitumen mastic are usually used. Sequence of insulation work:

1. Treat all surfaces with a water-repellent compound.
2. Attach sheets of roofing felt to the walls - the material is fixed using heated bitumen mastic. To ensure high-quality insulation you will need 2-3 layers.
3. Plaster the walls with cement.

Construction of the floor

Arranging the ceiling is a responsible undertaking. The supporting structures must withstand heavy loads. Often the overlap is made from monolithic block, made of concrete and reinforcement cage. It is important that the roof of the cellar exceeds the size of the room, since the walls will act as load-bearing supports.

Algorithm for performing the work:

1. Install supports on which the wooden formwork will subsequently rest.
2. Before pouring, the formwork must be carefully sealed so that the solution does not leak out through the cracks.
3. After preparing the formwork, make the frame of the concrete slab from reinforcement. The spacing of the reinforcing bars is about 25 cm, the height of the frame is up to 30 cm.
4. For a large cellar area, it is recommended to double reinforce the slab.
5. The reinforcement mesh should protrude beyond the cellar wall by 5-10 cm from different sides.
6. The resulting frame is evenly filled with concrete mortar.

After pouring the slab, you need to wait 3-4 weeks. The overlap will completely harden and take on its final form.

Ventilation system and electrical supply

Good air exchange - important condition safety of products in the cellar. Lack of normal ventilation will lead to rotting of vegetables, and too rapid circulation air flow- to drying out of root crops.

IN technical room It is preferable to create natural ventilation - it is less expensive, and its proper organization will ensure sufficient air exchange. To implement this, you will need to install a supply and exhaust air duct. The exhaust element is placed at the top near the ceiling, and the supply opening is on the opposite wall at a distance of half a meter from the floor.

Creation order natural ventilation in the cellar with your own hands:

1. Select an air duct based on 1 sq. m bin area - 26 sq. cm pipes.
2. The pipe is installed from the corner of the room, and its lower end should be located under the ceiling. The air duct passes through the entire room, the roof, towering above rafter system half a meter.
3. To prevent condensation from collecting in the pipeline, it is necessary to thermally insulate the exhaust pipe using the sandwich principle. One pipe is installed into another, and the space between them is filled with mineral wool.
4. Open end air pipe located at a distance of 50 cm from the lower floor level. The exhaust air duct penetrates the ceiling, ending 80 cm above the base.
5. Cover the outer hole of the pipe with a mesh.
6. It is advisable to put valves on the pipes to regulate the air flow.

Cellar electrification is carried out using double or triple insulated copper cable.

Interior design of the cellar

Upon completion of the installation work, you can begin landscaping the cellar. There are several design options:

• make the walls with racks with spacious shelves;
• hang metal shelves;
• set up prefabricated racks.

Important! All wood structures must be coated with an anti-insect compound and a protective impregnation against moisture.

Do-it-yourself above-ground cellar: step-by-step instructions

At your dacha, you can equip a simple cellar with your own hands if the groundwater level is high. Inside the bin, the air temperature can be maintained at 2-3°C. Let's look at an example of building a vegetable storage facility like a storage shed, with the following dimensions:

• height at the center of the structure - 2 m;
• width - 3.3 m, length - 3 m;
• passage width - 0.6 m.

Sequence of work:

1. Coat logs resting on the soil with hot bitumen mastic.
2. The ceiling is made of boards, and the sheathing elements are made of hewn slabs, obapol, clay straw, and pine trimmings from the sawmill.
3. The roof overhangs must rest on the ground. Such an installation provides additional thermal insulation in the form of snowdrifts during the cold season. As a result, a structure is formed, like a tent.
4. On one side, the storage shed is sewn up with two rows of boards, between which insulation is laid. At the other end there is an insulated door.
5. From the outer part of the lobaza, dig a drainage trench around the entire perimeter to prevent the ingress of natural water.
6. Make a hood near the ridge - a wooden box with an adjustment plate.

Building a cellar with your own hands: video

The cellar is a structure in great demand in suburban area. In a cellar built in accordance with the rules and equipped with ventilation, it is very convenient to store vegetables grown in your own garden: for a long period they do not lose their taste and retain the maximum amount of vitamins. The cellar is also suitable for storing preserves and pickles.

Cellar on the site - choosing the right place

To build a cellar, you will need to dig a pit about 2-3 m deep, optimal area cellar - about 8 sq. m. To avoid problems with the flow of melt or groundwater into the cellar, it is advisable to choose the highest place for its construction. Of course, this is important if the cellar is built separately, and not as a basement for capital construction.

Before starting construction, it is necessary to determine the depth of groundwater - even if the water rises to the maximum level, it should not flood the cellar. Typically, the height of groundwater does not exceed a two-meter level, which is quite enough for construction. Depending on the composition of the soil, the option of flooring and waterproofing is selected.

The best time to build a cellar is summer, when groundwater drops to its minimum height.

Digging a pit and laying the foundation

Construction of a cellar at summer cottage start by marking the dimensions of the structure on the selected site. Then deleted upper layer soil and begin digging a pit, calculating its depth taking into account the groundwater level. If the soil is dry, the dimensions of the pit must correspond to the size of the structure - all work will be carried out from the inside, but if the soil is wet, the pit will be dug large sizes- waterproofing work will have to be carried out with outside cellar walls. The steepness of the pit slopes depends on the type of soil.

The pit is allowed to stand for a while to make sure that water does not seep through its walls. Places where water appears are sealed with clay tampons, digging a ditch 0.5 m deep, trampling it with greasy crumpled clay, and compacting it tightly.

In order to form the base of the structure, the bottom is leveled and compacted, covered with a 15 cm layer of sand, then gravel and rich clay. This is necessary if groundwater lies at shallow depths. Next, a layer of concrete with a thickness of 5 to 10 cm is poured. After hardening, the concrete is poured with melted bitumen, lined with strips of roofing material, and again concreted with a layer of 10-15 cm.

To construct the foundation, rubble stone or crushed stone filled with sand is used. cement mortar. The dimensions of the foundation must exceed the external dimensions of the cellar by 0.15-0.2 m on each side.

Materials for the cellar - we erect walls and ceilings

A wide variety of materials are used for the construction of walls:

• concrete
• rubble stone
• wood
• asbestos cement sheets.

The thickness of the walls is planned depending on the material:

• concrete - 15 cm
• brick - 12 - 25 cm - depending on the type of masonry
• bottle - up to 25 cm.

For casting the walls, concrete grades 50 or 100 are used; it will also be necessary to construct formwork from boards around the perimeter of the cellar.

For the construction of stone walls, granite, sandstone or dolomite pieces of rough processing are used. The stones are selected and laid so that the seams have minimum thickness- this will reduce cement consumption and reduce the risk of masonry subsidence.

When constructing walls from brick and rubble, the seams are bandaged. If you plan to plaster the surface of the walls, then laying in a waste area is allowed, i.e. the solution may not reach the surface of the walls by 1 - 1.2 cm.

To cover the cellar, use any available and sufficiently durable materials. The simplest option is to use wooden poles, bars, boards, and slabs. They are treated with an antiseptic, laid down and covered with any heat insulator (30 cm layer). The ceilings are lubricated with clay and covered with soil or slag. Using flammable peat or sawdust as backfill, cover them with at least a 2 cm layer of soil or sand.

If used as a cover reinforced concrete slabs- You will need to seal the joints with cement mortar. Next, the slabs are filled with molten bitumen and roofing material is laid on it. Slag wool can be used as insulation.

If a cellar is built above the cellar, then its door should face north so that it is less heated by the sun. The walls are made of any material, the roof is made of materials with low thermal conductivity.

A hatch with an insulated cover is installed in the ceiling.

Hood in the cellar

Ventilation of the room is an extremely important point; the quality of food storage depends on its proper organization. For ventilation of capital structures, two ventilation pipes are installed:
supply air, installed in the lower part of the cellar, at a height of about 0.5 m above floor level
exhaust - built in the upper part, under the ceiling.

Pipes can be ceramic, metal, asbestos-cement, or plank. Install them in different angles premises - this will eliminate the possibility of fresh air being sucked in. Additional ventilation will be provided through gaps in the doors and hatch.

To create a sustainable process for providing fresh air, the exhaust pipe must be raised above the ridge of the cellar roof. The exhaust pipe should be insulated or made double. The cross-section of the pipe is calculated depending on the size of the cellar, for example, for a room of 8 square meters. m will require an exhaust pipe with a cross-section of 12X12 cm. The pipes are equipped with dampers and valves - this will make it possible to regulate the speed of air movement. It is enough to equip some types of cellars with a grate in the entrance hatch.

Efficiency exhaust system You can check by observing how the smoke moves in the room. A signal that the level of ventilation is insufficient will be the appearance of mold, dampness, unpleasant, musty air, and the appearance of condensation on the ceiling.

To make ventilation more convenient, it is better to make the internal doors of the cellar lattice. To absorb excess moisture, boxes with substances that actively absorb moisture, for example, salt or quicklime, are placed inside the cellar.

Waterproofing

When starting to install waterproofing, you should understand that the process itself is less complicated and time-consuming than correcting mistakes made during its implementation. Therefore, all work should be performed carefully and efficiently. The construction of a waterproofing system makes sense only if:

• correctly chosen design solution for the cellar
• use of quality materials
• performing work according to all rules.

When the groundwater level is high, it is recommended to carry out anti-pressure waterproofing. It will also be required if there is a threat of hydrostatic pressure on the walls from the side of thawed or rain accumulated in the space between the walls of the cellar and pit, i.e. stagnant waters. This applies to cases where the cellar is built on dense clay soils.

To make the base of the cellar and walls waterproof, double-sided plastering of brick and concrete walls a solution consisting of 2 parts water and 1 part cement. Next, install a layer of anti-pressure waterproofing made of roofing felt or roofing felt, in 3-4 layers, and press it with a protective wall to protect it from damage. The protective wall is constructed of red brick, the space behind it on the pit side is equipped with a clay castle, which will extend the service life of the waterproofing layer.

If, during work, groundwater accumulates in the pit, then it will be necessary to take measures to drain it - the construction of a drainage system - a ditch at the bottom of the pit leading to a drainage well.

Waterproofing of walls is carried out using coating, pasting or mixed waterproofing, which involves the use of mastics and roll materials simultaneously.

In order to ensure the drainage of storm water from the cellar, a drainage system is constructed, which is a ditch approximately 0.5 m deep.

Thermal insulation

To obtain optimal temperature indicators inside the cellar in summer and winter, the ceiling and walls are insulated with mineral wool, polystyrene foam or styrofoam insulating film. When choosing a material, you should consider what the surfaces to which the heat insulator will be attached are made of. For example, it is very easy to attach polystyrene foam to a brick wall, while mineral wool or film will require the installation of beacons.

Cellar in the house

If you decide to build a cellar in a house, or rather, under a house, then it is better to plan its placement under non-residential rooms, preferably under unheated ones. Ideal place there will be a veranda to accommodate it - the temperature in it is lower than in the house, arrange ventilation system it will also be easier. If the only one possible options If the cellar is located under a heated room, then it will be necessary to insulate its ceiling; you can install a five-centimeter layer of polystyrene foam into the roof screed. You will also need to consider the optimal option for installing high-quality ventilation - otherwise, ensuring high-quality storage of products is unlikely to be possible.

Other types of cellars

Depending on the device, cellars can be:

• buried
• semi-recessed
• ground.

semi-buried cellar

We discussed the construction of a buried cellar above; it is preferred in areas where groundwater lies at a sufficient depth. If the area is low-lying, then a more appropriate option would be to build a semi-buried cellar. A pit for it will need a depth of only 0.7 - 0.9 m, the dimensions of the pit should be significantly larger than the dimensions of the cellar itself - they should allow the installation of external heat and waterproofing. To avoid unnecessary damage to the soil, the pit is dug manually. If water-bearing veins are discovered, they should be carefully sealed with clay to a depth of 0.15 m.

For the construction of walls, brickwork or concrete slabs are used. Plastering of walls is carried out with the addition of waterproofing material Aquatron, which provides:
high-quality adhesion to brick or concrete surfaces,
waterproof,
frost resistance,
easy application.

Waterproofing can be replaced with a clay castle 30 cm thick. You need to waterproof the entire surface of the foundation and outside walls. To construct the ceiling, a slab is used; after laying it, it is treated with a clay solution, and after drying, it is covered with soil.

above ground cellar

There are above-ground cellars different types, their difference is due to the place and method of construction. Wall variety the above-ground cellar is attached to one of the walls of the house. It is usually constructed from brick or monolithic concrete. Brickwork performed in one brick per sand-cement mixture. The cellar walls on both sides are plastered with cement mortar. Then the outside is waterproofed with bitumen coating in 2 layers.

Before constructing the floor, the soil inside the cellar is carefully leveled, a layer of concrete about 15 cm is poured. After the concrete has completely hardened, a floor is laid, the thickness of which should be at least 5 cm.

How to do electrical wiring

For comfortable use, you will need to consider the lighting method. Since there will be no daylight access to the cellar, you will have to use a flashlight when visiting it. It would be more convenient to install electric lighting. It is best to use a copper wire with rubber insulation and braided wire. Electrical wiring is carried out externally. You cannot install sockets in the cellar. All electric lamps must be equipped with protective glass reinforced caps. Switches are installed outside, at the entrance to the cellar.

Antiseptic treatment

To prevent the cellar from becoming a haven for fungi and mold in winter, you should treat the walls, shelves, and drawers with antiseptic preparations even before you start loading vegetables into it. If you resort to using chemicals undesirable - you can treat all surfaces with slaked lime.

The next type, a cellar with a bund, differs in that during the construction process its outer walls are embanked with soil. This helps maintain stable temperature and humidity inside it.

In our region, in the Black Earth Region, it has long been customary to make a cellar on the street in order to store numerous supplies in it. This also saves food supplies from spoilage in the summer, and in the winter the temperature in the cellar always stays around plus five degrees. Like a perfect refrigerator. In today’s selection I want to offer you ideas for beautiful outdoor cellars and even several plans for these structures.

Of course, you should take into account the groundwater level in your area, but even if it is high, you can dig a pit in the summer, in dry weather, and make a cellar with good waterproofing.

I remember that when I climbed into my grandmother’s cellar as a child, in the middle of summer she had ice in the hole, which had been stored there since winter, just to maintain a low temperature. The second name of the cellar is glacier, with an emphasis on the letter e. Apparently, it occurs precisely because ice is brought into the room from winter.

Approximate cellar plan for a private house or cottage

I won’t describe the plan; everything is clear in the drawing. This is an approximate plan for a cellar in the form of a hill, when you have close groundwater - this option is the most optimal.

The idea of ​​a cellar combined with a barn

A great idea for a cellar for both a dacha and a private home; in this case, the pit itself is “covered” from above with a shed, in which some of the provisions can also be stored. A very convenient idea, but this option is narrower for those areas where there is no high groundwater.

Options for above-ground and underground cellars

On the left in the picture a cellar option for extremely high groundwater is shown; in this case, the earth is poured into a hill onto a frame, which almost completely stands on the surface of the earth, only going slightly deeper into the turf.

On right- a stone cellar, a classic option for dry, elevated places.

The cellar is not some nondescript barn or nook, but a real food pantry. Like the refrigerator in ours modern houses. There used to be a reverent attitude towards cellars, because only thanks to it was it possible to preserve food in the summer.

Even now, even at the dacha, I recommend having at least a small equipped pit in which you can place perishable foods in the event of a power outage. Every summer we ourselves encounter power outages, either because of a thunderstorm or because of the wind, and we have such a mini-cellar. The dimensions of the pit are 50 by 100 cm, the depth is about 50 cm. Even meat can be kept for a day without any problems.

Well now let's see beautiful ideas cellar in a private house. In any village, on the street, you can still find masterpieces of construction art, of course, not all have been preserved in good condition, but there are owners who maintain their storage facilities in “shape”.

Just a variant of a bulk cellar, a triangular hut structure. Thick logs keep out the heat from the street, and additional earth is poured onto the roof.

Classic stone cellar with filled earth. An ideal option for storing large reserves of harvest from your site.

Beautifully decorated cellar door with blanks. It is immediately clear that the attitude towards this building is very reverent!

Another example of a bulk cellar, the earth is very good material to maintain a uniform temperature inside the room.

The façade of the cellar was made of stone; there was even room for a flower bed! Doubly admirable! This is not some hill overgrown with weeds, but a piece of landscape design at the dacha.

A cellar made of cement is an excellent solution for storing vegetables for a long winter.

Another similar cellar option, which was already shown earlier. A dome-shaped shape covered with earth is perfect solution for those areas where groundwater is located high.

A beautiful bulk cellar that looks like a hobbit house! By the way, some architects design similar residential buildings, arguing that such buildings have low heat loss.

An ancient stone cellar in which Pomor fish were stored. The stone keeps cool for a long time, and if there is ice inside the cellar, then the food will be safe for as long as in a modern refrigerator.

Look, bulk cellars are the most common, as they provide a combination of coolness and dryness.

Be sure to consider the ventilation system in the cellar so that dry air comes from the street, so that there is air movement, otherwise there is a risk of white mold developing.

You can also keep containers with salt in the cellars, which will absorb excess moisture and foreign odors. Even tubs of salt are appropriate in large cellars!

The driest ones are chalk cellars made of limestone. In such rooms mold does not even grow! Here, in Voronezh region, there are areas where people simply hollowed out a cellar in the chalk rock - convenient and forever!

Even wealthy people make cellars on their property - in this case, the room is intended for storing wine.

The facade of the cellar can be made of brick, and the frame can be covered with earth or stone. By the way, the cellar mound can be designed in the form of an alpine slide!

Very beautiful cellar antique style! The owner of the building deserves all the praise.

The entrance to the cellar is designed under a canopy so that precipitation does not leak into the pit, since this option is made underground.

The facade of the cellar is made of stones, the retaining walls are decorated with tubs of plants.

The façade of the cellar is made of brick and plastered. It is clear that the structure is ancient, since the tree on the right has literally grown into the embankment.

Rustic cellar with wattle retaining wall. The solution requires regular updating, since such a wall will only last a couple of seasons.

A charming idea for a bulk cellar with stone surrounds and an earthen roof.

And this facade is simply gorgeous! There is paving in front of the entrance, decoration with pots of flowers, and a mowed lawn on top. In a word - magnificence!

So, this concludes our selection! All the best to you, inspiration and positivity! And if you are planning to build a cellar, then build it taking into account these ideas and recommendations. And may your harvest be safe and sound for a long time!

The basement under the house is not the best the best place For long-term storage blanks The temperature there is elevated, and closer to spring the vegetables in it will become flabby. Therefore, sooner or later, novice homeowners have a reasonable question: “How to make a free-standing cellar with your own hands?”

Types of cellars

In essence, a cellar is a fairly deep hole in the ground with a reinforced ceiling and walls.

The depth of such storage can be different:

• deep-seated: are completely underground to the entire height of the cellar; maintaining a comfortable temperature for vegetables and preservation at any time in such rooms is not difficult - a layer of soil reliably protects them from heat and cold;
• top (ground) cellars: they can be erected on any type of site, but most often such structures are used when groundwater is close to each other, when it is not possible to deepen the cellar too much; to protect such structures from heat and cold, they are thermally insulated by backfilling with soil (embankment);
• semi-recessed: something between high and deep storage; its lower part is buried in the soil, and its upper part is located above the ground.

When choosing the type of cellar, you need to focus on the depth of groundwater. They should not rise higher than 50-60 cm from the bottom of the cellar.

It is not easy to determine the groundwater level on your own, without the help of specialists. You can focus on neighboring areas. Go around your neighbors and ask them what types of cellars are used in this area. More accurate measurements can be made by drilling test wells. Before measuring the water level, the finished well should stand for 1-2 days.

Based on their location, all underground storage facilities can be divided into 2 types:

1 Freestanding

2 Wall mounted: in order to save free space, it is allowed to attach the cellar to the walls of sheds, garages and other outbuildings; Cellars can also be located inside such premises; but in order to avoid excessive heating of the air, it is not recommended to attach the cellar to heated rooms.

Selecting a location

The safety of products and the durability of the structure itself largely depend on the location chosen for construction.

You should not build a cellar on:

• on open area, illuminated by the sun - it is better to choose a place in the shade
• near large trees that can damage the structure with their roots

The highest possible location for the building is selected. In this case, the likelihood of flooding by groundwater when it rises in the spring is reduced. Plus, rainwater or melt water will not accumulate on such a site.

The vegetable storage facility is located on an elevated area

To avoid the collapse of buildings, the cellar pit should be located no closer than 0.5 m from the foundation of the buildings.

During the construction of a vegetable storage facility under unheated room you will not only save space on your site, but also ensure ease of use - you will no longer have to clear snow every time you go for food supplies.

The walls and roof of the building will create additional protection from cold winds and scorching heat.

When constructing an above-ground cellar, the exit is located with shadow side. If this is not possible, you will need more thorough thermal insulation of the vestibule and the entrance door.

Construction of a deep cellar

The construction of any type of underground storage facility should not be carried out in the spring, when groundwater rises too close to the surface, but towards the end of summer, in August. All work must be carried out in dry weather. When it rains, the pit must be covered with film.

1 After choosing the storage location, they begin digging a pit. The depth of a full cellar should be 2-2.5 m.

2 When preparing the pit, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the floor, as well as the height of the bedding (cushion) of crushed stone, which serves as protection from moisture. The thickness of this layer is 25-30 cm.

3 The optimal size of vegetable storage is 8-12 square meters. m. For a small family, 4-5 square meters is enough. m. 0.5-1 m is added to the estimated length and width for equipping walls, waterproofing and arranging a clay castle.

4 Digging a pit is done manually - an excavator can damage the edges of the pit, and the thermal insulation of the storage facility will be damaged. The earth is removed in layers, carefully leveling the edges.

5 When loose soil It is better to make a pit with a slope (the difference between the floor and the top in each direction should be 30-50 cm). In this case, the earth will crumble less.

6 In the corners it is better to immediately hammer in supports from the channel. Floor beams will be laid on it in the future.

7 Part of the earth will be needed to fill the top of the cellar, so do not carry the soil too far.

8 After reaching the required depth, the pit must stand for some time - you need to make sure that it will not fill groundwater. If water has slightly seeped into the hole, the points of its penetration are sealed with clay. In case of severe flooding, further construction, unfortunately, will be impossible.

There is no point in hoping that water from a flooded cellar can be pumped out every spring. You will only wash out the channels, constantly expanding them, and every year more and more water will arrive. If the dug pit begins to flood, it is better to cover it with earth and build an above-ground cellar.

Preparing a clay castle

The best floors in the cellar are adobe. Our ancestors knew about the ability of clay to retain moisture and not let it into the room.

To this day, the clay castle is one of best options foundation protection even during the construction of residential buildings. By the way, leaks in the basements of buildings erected back in the 18th-19th centuries arise only after the construction of new ones. modern communications and destruction of adobe surfaces.

A clay castle is a layer of clay 20-25 cm thick, laid along the contour of the building, covering the perimeter of the walls. The ideal option would be a combination of modern and traditional protection methods.

First, rolled bitumen material (for example, roofing felt) glued with heated bitumen is laid on the floors, they are filled with cement, and a clay castle is built on top.

The clay must first be soaked in sufficient water for several days. If there is an excess of sand, 10-20% lime is added to it. It is better to compact the clay in the formwork, filling it in small layers. To compact it, it is trampled with feet, turning it over with a shovel from time to time.

If a natural layer of clay is found at the bottom of a hole prepared for a cellar, it must be dug up with a shovel, including an area slightly wider than the intended walls. Then the floors are thoroughly crushed with feet, dug up again with a shovel and trampled down.

The walls are also insulated with a clay lock. To do this, the space between the brick or concrete wall filled with carefully compacted clay. The thickness of such a lock is from 25 cm. It is more convenient to fill the space with clay as the walls are built.

It is compacted using a piece of log or a special tamper in the form of a flat, heavy base and a handle attached to it.

An ordinary sand bedding (pillow) that absorbs water well, with adobe floors undesirable. It is better to replace it with a layer of crushed stone, spilled with bitumen, which is covered with compacted clay on top.

Ventilation

Regardless of the type of cellar, ventilation must be provided in it. Indeed, in addition to the moisture coming through the capillaries from the soil, vegetables and fruits stored indoors will also release water during respiration.

There are two ventilation ducts in the cellar. The first exhaust is located above the ceiling with an outlet to the outside to a height of 10-15 cm (see photo). The end of the pipe located outdoors should rise 0.5 m above the ground.

When above the cellar outbuilding(garage, barn, etc.) the exhaust duct is led to the roof of the building above the ridge. The pipe should rise 0.5 m above it.

The second supply channel, which serves to supply fresh air, is installed at a distance of 20-25 cm from the floor. Supply and exhaust pipe are mounted only on opposite walls. Their minimum length is 2.5-3 m. In order for the circulation of air masses to be uniform, the diameter of the channels must be the same.

They are laid already during the construction of walls. To do this, special holes are provided in the masonry or concrete into which pipes are inserted. The channels are equipped with canopies on top that protect against precipitation and the penetration of rodents.

Too large, as well as a small diameter, is undesirable. In the first case, the room will be too cold, in the second - small size the channel will not provide sufficient air exchange. Ideally, the pipes should not have any bends. Any expansion or contraction is unacceptable.

The size of the pipes is calculated depending on the dimensions of the room. For every 1 m2 of a standard 2-meter depth cellar, 26 cm2 of channel cross-section should be provided. If the storage depth is large, the diameter of the pipes is increased proportionally.

To prevent water vapor escaping from freezing, the channels are insulated at the exit points with soil. You can put on a casing lined with heat-insulating material on the outside.

In large vegetable storehouses it is arranged forced ventilation. In the simplest systems, a low-power electric fan is installed in the hood for this purpose. In more complex versions, it is installed in both the supply and exhaust ducts.

In winter, the inlet openings must be carefully plugged with cloth.

Wall decoration

The most popular materials for their finishing are concrete, brick or concrete blocks. To pour concrete, formwork is prepared into which a reinforcement cage is built. All concrete works must be carried out within one day.

Otherwise, cold bridges will form at the joints, through which heat will escape. Such joints are dangerous and due to an excess of surface tension, the wall will turn out to be fragile.

When erecting brick walls, the masonry is laid in one brick. A clay-sand or cement mixture is used as a solution. The outside walls are waterproofed with a double layer of bitumen and roofing felt. The remaining space between the soil and the wall is filled with earth and compacted.

The walls can be finished with asbestos-cement slabs. It is not advisable to use wood. Its service life in a damp room will be short. If there is a need for this, you can use the method that was used by our ancestors. Pegs are driven into the corners of the walls, into which boards or slabs, cut to length and dried for 1-2 years, are laid.

Cellar cover

To make the floor, you can use concrete, wood, or a combination of both. Fix the plank ceiling and lay insulation in between wooden beams much more convenient and simpler.

In this case:

1 Roofing felt is laid on top of the walls.

2 Then, at a distance of 0.5 m from each other, logs or beams from 150x100 mm timber, pre-treated with an antiseptic, are laid.

4 The wooden flooring is covered with a layer of waterproofing. You can use thick polyethylene as it. The film is spread so that it lies on the ground.

5 Now we lay the reinforcement in the form of a lattice, prepare the formwork and fill it with concrete 4-5 cm thick.

6 After the concrete has completely dried (you must wait at least a week), a double insulated, tightly fitted lid is attached to the hatch. Brick is laid around its perimeter or concrete is poured.

7 When used as a ceiling concrete slabs they are laid on metal beams. The seams between the slabs are sealed with cement mortar; then this overlap is filled with bitumen. Roofing felt is spread on top of it, and then a layer of insulation.

8 It is not advisable to use mineral wool as insulation - in a damp room, over time it will clump into clumps and completely lose its thermal insulation properties. The best option- Styrofoam. The joints between its sheets are sealed with sealant or adhesive tape.

9 If the underground storage facility is built separately, to protect it from the sun in summer and snow in winter, it is better to provide a small building with a gable roof (cellar) above the cellar. Its door is installed on the north side. Such a room can be used as a place to store gardening equipment.

For reliable heat protection, the walls of the cellar are buried 60-70 cm into the ground, and a blind area of ​​clay and crushed stone is made on the outside.

Ceiling insulation

To provide optimal temperature The ceiling in the room must be thermally insulated.

To do this, a lattice structure (lathing) made of timber is attached to the beams, between which foam plastic or any other heat-insulating material that does not absorb moisture is laid.

To secure it, it is sheathed with boards or fiberboard, which are screwed to the beams.

1 The earthen backfill (embankment) must reliably retain cold in summer and heat in winter. Its optimal thickness is 35-45 cm.

2 Before bunding, the ceiling is covered with a 5-centimeter layer of clay-straw mixture. A thick film of polyethylene or roofing felt is laid on top of it.

3 The ground, especially at the top of the floor, may settle over time. To avoid the need for additional embankment, it is necessary to provide a special fence to protect against soil sliding along the slopes.

4 To strengthen the embankment, it must be immediately covered with turf or sown with low-growing grass, for example, lawn grass. The intertwined roots of the plants will prevent the soil from sliding down.

Like any other building, a horse cellar can be made visually attractive by decorating it to your liking. The design of the site will only benefit from this.

The main stages of building a cellar without embanking walls

Horse cellars with full embankment take up too much space on the site. Last years the site owners found another solution. Instead of embankment, they began to build cellars with double walls.

Outwardly, they look like ordinary buildings. However, due to the massive walls lined with insulation, such a storage shed maintains a comfortable temperature for vegetables.

Only the one- or two-slope roof of such a vegetable storage facility is insulated with earth using embankment.. The thickness of the layer of backfilled soil is up to half a meter. Just as in the previous case, a vestibule is provided in such a storage shed.

The door leading to the storage room is carefully insulated.