Self-leveling floors on a wooden floor. Installation of a self-leveling floor on a wooden base. Preparing the base for pouring self-leveling floors

Lugato self-leveling floor is designed for wooden floors, including old floors that need to be updated and reused.

A fast-acting, elastic and self-leveling self-leveling floor for wooden floors can replace expensive and thick-layer alternative solutions (particle boards). In combination with a universal primer and reinforcing mesh, a system is offered that overcomes the stress of wooden floors without cracking. An absolutely flat surface is created for various subsequent works, such as: laying carpets or gluing ceramic tiles, applying paint. For layers from 1 to 20 mm thick (wooden floors: 5 to 20 mm). After 5 hours you can walk on the base (wooden floors), and after 12 hours you can begin subsequent work.

Technical data for self-leveling floors for wooden floors Lugato NeuAufAlt:

Consumption, efficiency of the mixture depending on the thickness of the layer.

Layer thickness	Consumption	Efficiency 20 kg material
5 mm	7.5 kg/m2	OK. 2.6 m2
20 mm	30 kg/m2	OK. 0.6 m2

Viability of the prepared mixture in a container: 15-20 minutes.
Operating temperature: 5 - 30 °C.
Time after which you can walk on the base: after 5 hours - wooden floor
after 2-4 hours - other reasons.
A break in work before gluing with LUGATO adhesives (mixture layer thickness up to 10 mm):
12 hours - gluing tiles
24 hours - gluing flooring, painting
3 days - gluing of PVC parts.
The time refers to a temperature of 15-20 °C and a relative humidity of 65%.
Temperature resistance: from 0 to 70 °C.
Bending tensile strength/compressive strength (28 days):
4.7 N/mm2 / 15 N/mm2.
Tensile adhesive strength (28 days): 2.5 N/mm2.
Composition: standard and special cement, quartz sand, synthetic additives, spreading agent, antifoaming agent.
Ecology: without fibers and quartz flour. Casein free. Contains little chromate according to TRGS 613. GISCODE ZP 1.
Packaging: 20 kg bag.
Shelf life: in original packaging about 12 months. Store in a dry place.

Preparing the base for Lugato NeuAufAlt self-leveling floor:

Suitable bases:	wooden bases with tongue and groove, particle boards, cement slabs, cast asphalt, anhydrite and magnesia screed, dry continuous screed, such as plasterboard boards, gypsum fiber boards, old tiles, durable paint, concrete, cement screed.
Base structure:	able to bear the load, no cracks, clean, not wet. Free of grease, wax, floor care products and unfastened paint. Wooden floors and particle boards must lie firmly on the surface.
Preparing the base:	old wood floor: attach loose boards. Seal the joints between the floor and the wall with styrofoam tapes to prevent the penetration of putty and the formation of sound bridges. Prime. Chipboard (at least 22mm thick): glued tongue and groove and secured with bolts. Prime. Ceramic tile, cast asphalt: clean. No primer required. Anhydrite and magnesia screed: sand, remove dust with a vacuum cleaner, prime. Concrete and cement screed: remove cement film using water and a steel brush. Allow the base to dry. Prime.

Self-leveling floors, which are so popular today, have many advantages. Self-leveling floor wooden base not only strong and durable, but safe and environmentally friendly, therefore perfect for residential premises, including children's rooms and kitchens.

The first self-leveling floors were not particularly diverse. Now times have changed, and experts offer polyurethane coatings in numerous color solutions. Floors made using 3D technology are very popular; with their help you can create a stunning effect that will decorate the design of any room.

More often, self-leveling floors can be found in houses with concrete base. But wood flooring is also suitable for this type of work. Pouring a floor with a wood base is somewhat more complicated and has certain nuances.

Preparing for work

Laying the bulk mixture is a labor-intensive process. Much depends on how thoroughly the preparation for it is carried out. First of all, you need to determine whether it is possible to work with a particular wooden base. The self-leveling floor will last a long time and will be of truly high quality only when the wooden covering is of sufficient quality.

Preparation of the base consists of removing the baseboards and their fastenings from the walls. Next, the wooden floor is scraped using a special machine. IN small spaces You can get by with manual cycles.

Next comes the grinding machine, whose task will be to open cracks in wooden covering. If they were not initially visible, then after processing they will definitely appear. All cracks and irregularities on the surface should be treated with putty and wait until it dries completely. After this, the base for the self-leveling floor is sanded using coarse sandpaper. In this case, it is better to give preference to wood combined with polyurethane.

The final stage of preparation is priming the surface. Before starting this procedure, it is necessary to degrease the base and thoroughly get rid of all debris and dust. It is better to apply the primer in two layers. For more reliable adhesion, it is worth adding quartz sand to the primer.

For preparatory work you will need a chisel, nail puller, scraper and grinding machine, coarse sandpaper, a primer roller, a spatula, and a mixer for mixing the polyurethane solution. In addition, it is worth stocking up on gloves, respirators, overalls, goggles and shoes with spikes for walking on freshly applied surfaces.

Floor pouring technology

According to the principle of operation, pouring polyurethane onto a wooden surface is no different from a similar process with a concrete base.

First of all, it is important to properly prepare the solution. This procedure must be carried out in accordance with the rules outlined in the manufacturer's instructions. Basically, this happens according to the same scheme: the dry mixture is filled with water, and then mixed until smooth with a construction mixer.

The finished mixture must be laid out on the wooden floor, starting from the farthest corner of the room. The thickness of the finished coating is very important. In the case of wood, it should not be more than 5 mm. The polyurethane is leveled using a spatula and a needle roller. The latter is necessary in order to remove all air bubbles from the mixture. An even layer of polyurethane needs to be dried for about 15 minutes, and then covered with film so that dust does not settle on the hardening self-leveling floor.

The base coat must be completely dry and hardened. Only after this can you apply finishing layer. As a rule, this is a varnish or a polymer mixture.

Experts advise choosing self-leveling floors for residential premises, which are based on polymer resin. Where humidity is particularly high, for example in the bathroom, it is better to use epoxy coating.

Self-leveling floors can be very durable, but each individual case has its own preparation and installation features. For example, in a room with the possibility of sudden temperature changes, it is worth using mounting tape. It needs to be laid along the entire perimeter of the wall of the room. As a result, a damper gasket will be released that can protect the polyurethane surface if the wood begins to expand as the temperature increases.

In rooms with a wooden floor base, after completing the preparatory work, you need to check the air humidity and temperature in the room. The instructions for the polyurethane mixture should indicate the optimal values for starting work.

Craftsmen recommend filling a surface area of about 2 sq.m. at once. Then you need to quickly level it and continue working on other areas. Do not interrupt the process of pouring the polyurethane coating for more than 10 minutes, otherwise you may get uneven surface. It is most convenient to fill the strips starting from the door furthest from the entrance.

The needle roller plays important role in filling the floor, as it makes the coating as uniform as possible. Experts recommend not saving on the finishing coat. Good varnish will give self-leveling floor beautiful glossy shine and will increase durability.

The self-leveling floor becomes hard within 10-12 hours. However, it is better to wait a few days before stepping on the surface. In some cases, the period of complete drying can last a week.

If you follow all the rules, you can achieve a stunning effect that will delight you for many years.

What to look for when choosing a material

First of all, you need to carefully examine the packaging. All manufacturers indicate exactly what this or that composition is suitable for. To make a self-leveling floor in wooden house, you need to choose materials with the appropriate marks; universal compositions are also suitable. But if the packaging indicates that the solution is suitable for concrete or anhydrite screeds, then it cannot be used for wood.

When choosing a composition, you should pay attention to the purpose - only universal or special mixtures are suitable for a wooden base

It is important to remember that self-leveling wood floors are poured in a layer of 3 to 7 centimeters, so it is not advisable to buy expensive gypsum mixtures that are designed for a layer of about 0.2–2.5 cm. It is recommended to use cement or gypsum-cement mortars. To decide on the type, you need to read the composition. The first substance is the one that is contained the most.

In addition to the material, it is necessary to purchase polyethylene film, which will serve as waterproofing. In rare cases, instead of polyethylene, you can use coating waterproofing. You will also need damper tape.

Base requirements

It should be noted that self-leveling floors cannot be applied to every surface. The base must meet the following requirements:

Floors should not creak.
The boards are securely fastened and do not sag while walking.
The flooring has a slight sag.
There are no serious defects on the surface: large cracks, holes, etc.
Each board must be intact, without traces of fungus and mold.

It is not necessary that the base be smooth, the main thing is good quality boards, no creaking and solidity

If any of the listed defects are found, part of the floor or the entire surface will have to be replaced.

Preparatory work

Self-leveling floors can be laid on a wooden floor only if the base is properly prepared. The duration of use of the coating depends on this stage, its appearance and performance indicators.

Immediately before starting work, you need to check the air temperature and humidity level. The required parameters are indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging. Compliance with these requirements is the key to successful completion of work.

Preparation of bulk solution

You need to take a clean, dry container and pour water into it at a temperature of +5 to +25 °C. Then add the mixture and mix with a construction mixer or drill with an appropriate attachment for 7 minutes. After this, you need to let the solution sit for about 15 minutes and repeat the procedure. It is better not to prepare the composition in large portions, since it begins to set on average after half an hour.

Attention! It is necessary to strictly follow the proportions specified by the manufacturer. If you add too little water, the mixture will dry out too quickly, possibly even while pouring. Otherwise, the finished coating will be less durable.

The preparation of bulk mixtures is carried out exclusively using construction mixer or mixer attachment

Pouring technology

The method of filling floors in a private house or apartment using leveling compounds is practically no different from working with cement-sand mixture, only self-leveling floors dry out faster.

You need to start from a place that is located lowest in level. The material is poured from the container into the space between the beacons and leveled with a rule, passing it along the beacons. After this, you need to roll the area with a needle roller. Process all stripes in this manner.

When the material begins to set, it is necessary to remove the beacons from it. The resulting grooves should be filled with the same solution and leveled taking into account finished surface, which will serve as a level. It is recommended to begin further finishing no earlier than a week later.

To ensure that the repair results are not disappointing, you must follow the recommendations:

To install self-leveling floors on wooden bases, you must follow the above rules and recommendations given by manufacturers on the packaging. In addition, it is important to remember that the material dries quite quickly, so it is better to work with a partner.

Quite often, during renovations recently, self-leveling floor systems are used, which are characterized by durability, wear resistance and strength. Among their positive qualities are safety and environmental friendliness. Since the creation of such coatings, significant technical changes have occurred. For example, they are presented in a wide range color scheme, which is especially true. With their help, you can create real masterpieces of design.

Can wood be used as a base?

Quite often, craftsmen ask the question of whether it is possible to install a self-leveling floor on wooden floor. The answer is yes, but before laying such a coating, it is necessary to analyze the rough base and determine whether it requires preparation. Realize installation work on wood is necessary only if it is well preserved, and it is recommended to use a thin mixture for arranging the finishing surface, which will not be able to increase the height significantly.

Preparatory work

The self-leveling can be installed not only on the type of rough foundation described above, but also on concrete. Before pouring, any surface must be prepared; the first step is to remove the baseboards and remove the fastenings from the walls. Then the master scrapes the surface; for this you should use the appropriate equipment. If the room has a small area, then it will be possible to cope with the help of a manual cycle. The next step is to hide the cracks using an encryption machine. Such errors during operation in any case appear on the wooden surface. The resulting irregularities and crevices are treated with putty, which after application is left to dry completely. Then the surface should be sanded with coarse sandpaper, which will improve the quality of adhesion.

The self-leveling floor on a wooden floor will last a long time if the base is cleaned of dust after sanding. It is most effective to use for this. Before priming, the base is degreased. The primer is necessary to increase the adhesion strength of the material to the wood. The composition is applied in two layers; before carrying out work, sifted quartz sand can be added to it. This will ensure the most reliable adhesion between polymer coating and the basis.

Preparing tools

If you are wondering whether self-leveling floors can be applied to a wooden floor, then the answer will be clear. Such work is carried out quite often today. It is important to properly prepare the surface and ensure that you have the appropriate tools. To dismantle the skirting boards you will need wooden wedges, a nail puller and a chisel, but to process wood you need to prepare a sanding machine and a grinding device. The final preparation of the surface can be done using coarse-grained sandpaper, an industrial vacuum cleaner will allow you to clean the base. To apply the primer to the surface, you will need a brush or roller. Quite often these instruments are used in tandem, since not all hard to reach places can be processed with a roller. A short-haired roller and a flat brush will allow you to distribute most effectively. The craftsman will need a spatula and a squeegee. You can mix the solution for installing a self-leveling floor using a construction mixer or a drill. It is best to pour a self-leveling floor on a wooden base while wearing special clothing, wearing safety glasses, a respirator and gloves. To move on the surface you will need special soles with spikes. This will allow the master to move around the freshly laid layer.

Work technology

Laying a polymer floor on a wooden floor is no different from the procedure that involves using concrete as a base. The only difference is preparatory stage, which was discussed in more detail above. Before pouring the self-leveling floor, you should prepare the solution using the instructions. The dry mixture should be mixed with water until a homogeneous mass is formed. The resulting solution is laid out on the base, and it is necessary to advance from the far corner of the room.

The self-leveling floor is poured onto a wooden floor and then leveled using a spatula until the required layer thickness is achieved. If we are talking about a wooden covering, then the thickness should be five millimeters or more. As the most optimal and convenient tool a needle roller acts to level and combat bubbles. The intervals between pouring batches should not be more than 10 minutes, otherwise the joints will be clearly visible. But even in this case, the connection of the mortar strips must be carefully rolled with a roller. As soon as the pouring is completed, you should cover the curing surface with film; this must be done 15 minutes after completion of the work. This will prevent dust from settling. After applying the base layer and its hardening, you can begin to apply the finishing coating, which can be a varnish or a polymer.

Cost of work from specialists

The self-leveling floor on a wooden floor will hold quite firmly if you follow the instructions provided. This process can be called quite simple, and you can do it yourself. But if financial capabilities allow, it is recommended to hire a team of specialists who guarantee high quality workmanship, carry out installation in accordance with technology, and also provide a guarantee for the work done. As a rule, specialists use expensive Building tools. All this adds up to the cost of preparatory, priming work and manipulations for pouring the mixture. In one square meter to prepare a wooden base you will have to pay 400 rubles, while applying a primer costs 200 rubles. per one square meter. Specialists fill the surface with quick-drying liquid compounds for 400 rubles. per one square meter.

If you want to make renovations in a residential area, it is recommended to choose mixtures based on polymer resins. If there are places high humidity, then they should use epoxy filler, while polyurethane flooring is suitable for the rest of the house. If you are wondering whether it is possible to pour a self-leveling floor, a wooden floor can be an excellent base. In the presence of plank covering it should be repaired and the loose floorboards replaced. The fasteners are tightened, the cracks are filled with sealant or the latter is mixed with an equal volume of sawdust. Waterproofing should be laid on the wooden base. Do not neglect the need to apply a primer, two layers of which will facilitate the main work and increase the strength of the coating.

Secrets of using finishing mixtures

A self-leveling floor on a wooden floor will look very good if the rough base does not have rough relief flaws. It is advisable to exclude them, since the thickness of the laid layer does not exceed 5 millimeters. Even though the bumps and depressions can be smoothed out by a leveling compound, there is a strong argument for eliminating the defects. Self-leveling floors will harden unevenly, and the strength indicator will vary.

It is also important to choose the right dry composition, the ingredients of which will determine the purpose of the future floor. For example, if the mixture contains cement as a binder, then this composition is suitable for pouring floors in bathrooms, kitchens, showers and bathrooms. If we're talking about about mixtures containing gypsum, then such a floor is best used for rooms with dry and low level humidity, it will demonstrate all its positive traits self-leveling floor A wooden surface can also be used for a base in which a heating system will be present. In this case, you should choose a leveling mass that has increased elasticity. It will expand and contract during operation without cracking.

Conclusion

Sometimes the self-leveling floor separates from wooden surface oiled paper, which is covered with an overlap. In this case, the layer should be poured one or two centimeters thick. The boundary between the screed and the self-leveling floor should be formed by treating the surface with waterproofing impregnation.

All photos from the article

In what cases should you prefer a self-leveling floor on a wooden base? How to properly prepare the boardwalk for it? How to mix and pour the mixture? Finally, what can replace the solution we are discussing? Let's try to figure it out.

It is believed that self-leveling mixtures are only suitable for concrete foundations. Whether this is so - we have to find out.

Why is this necessary?

In some rooms with high level humidity typical floor covering traditionally is tile. It is mechanically durable, easy to clean from any contaminants, has an almost unlimited service life and equally unlimited water resistance.

Tiled floors are an excellent solution for the kitchen.

However, laying tiles on plank base, to put it mildly, problematic:

Deformation of the boards will inevitably lead to the tiles coming away from the adhesive layer.
Under significant loads, deflection of the boards can cause the tiles to crack.

Obviously, the tile needs a stable base that is not prone to deformation. A reinforced screed suggests itself for this role; however, the load it creates with a thickness of at least 5 centimeters is already about 150 kg/m2, which is excessive for wooden logs and boards.

In addition: the screed under the tiles must be aligned with the beacons.
This is a rather lengthy and labor-intensive process.

But a relatively thin and durable self-leveling floor in a wooden house is quite capable of solving our problem: with a thickness of 0.5 - 3 centimeters, it will create a very moderate load on the plank floor and at the same time prevent it from sagging under load (of course, taking into account the distribution load on the tiles laid on top).

Restrictions

They flow directly from the structure of the pie we create.

The joists should not sag. Rot and rot are strictly prohibited.

The thickness of the floor boards must completely eliminate deformation over the entire range of design loads. Yes, the self-leveling floor layer has quite significant rigidity; however, its own weight cannot be discounted either.
The boards must be tightly fitted to each other. The gaps between the floorboards are sealed as tightly as possible with wood putty. In case of serious defects, the floor is simply re-laid and the floorboards adjusted.

Please note: strictly speaking, it would be more correct to delete the section wooden flooring together with the logs, build formwork around the perimeter and pour a regular reinforced screed under the tiles.
The design we are discussing will be a compromise between strength and durability on the one hand and minimal investment of time and money on the other.

Technology

Material selection

What should a self-leveling floor be like for wooden bases? In the store you need to look for a polymer concrete mixture, the description of which mentions the possibility of pouring not only over concrete or cement screed, but also on more complex surfaces.

Let's take a look at a couple of compounds from this category.

Name	List of compatible bases	Price
GLIMS-S-Base	Any surface cleared of debris	438 RUR/20 kg
Knauf Tribon	Cement-sand surfaces, kraft paper, wood	224 RUR/20 kg

The approximate consumption of the dry mixture is 16 – 18 kg/1 m2 with a layer thickness of 10 millimeters.

Preparing the flooring

We have already mentioned some of the stages: the joists and flooring need to be strengthened, and, if necessary, re-laid in whole or in part.

How to seal individual cracks?

The largest holes between the floorboards are clogged with wooden wedge-shaped inserts.

Minor defects in the base are repaired with acrylic wood putty, a homemade putty mixture of sawdust and PVA glue, or... an ordinary sand-cement mixture.

In addition, two more important preparation stages are necessary:

For better adhesion, you need to remove it from the boards paintwork . This can be done with a scraper (after all the nails have been sunk with a hammer) or with a regular spatula - after first applying a remover or heating the paint with a hair dryer.

Attention: in any case, work is carried out at open windows or wearing a respirator.
Breathing fine sawdust, fumes from remover or heated paint is equally harmful.

Cleaned boards are treated with antiseptic primer at least twice. For obvious reasons, we are not interested in wood rotting under a massive slab of self-leveling mixture and tiles.

Fill

So how to properly pour self-leveling flooring onto a wooden floor?

Like that:

Using water or laser level We determine the highest point of the flooring.
We place any beacon there that marks the minimum required thickness of the coating. It is different for each mixture; as a rule, manufacturers recommend minimum thickness in the range from 6 to 10 mm.
Mix the dry mixture with water using a construction mixer or an appropriate attachment for a drill/hammer. The manufacturer's instructions on the ratio of water and mixture must be strictly followed. With deviations, we will receive either a drop in strength or setting until uniformly distributed over the surface of the base.
The composition is distributed over the floor surface and rolled with a needle roller. This operation will speed up spreading and help get rid of air bubbles. The floor level, as you might guess, should be aligned with a pre-installed beacon.

Further work continues after the coating has gained strength for the time specified by the manufacturer.

Alternatives

Are there any alternatives to the solution described?

Yes, and the implementation of most of them is significantly cheaper. Let's give a couple of examples.

Plywood and linoleum

If the main purpose of laying tiles on a self-leveling floor is to organize high-quality waterproofing in the kitchen, you should think about replacing this structure with linoleum laid on a base previously leveled with plywood. The durability of the coating will be slightly lower; but we will significantly reduce costs and reduce the duration of repairs: we will not have to wait for the self-leveling composition and tile adhesive to set.

DSP for wood

The author implemented another “lazy” way of laying tiles on a wooden base with his own hands.

It consists of installing cement on top of the flooring. particle board 24 mm thick.

DSPs are cut according to the size of the room. Expansion joints not needed: the material practically does not change linear dimensions with fluctuations in humidity and temperature.
Holes for self-tapping screws are drilled and countersunk in the slabs.
Apply spotwise to a base cleared of debris. polyurethane foam. It will act as glue and prevent the slightest.
The DSP is screwed on with self-tapping screws and primed with tile adhesive.

Conclusion

We sincerely hope that the few solutions we have provided will make it easier for the reader to solve numerous repair problems. The video in this article will offer additional thematic information to his attention. Good luck!