If you look at standard apartments in ordinary houses, it is wallpaper that takes up most of the surfaces of the walls and ceiling. This finishing material attracts with its simplicity, cost, and speed of work. Today you can choose not only from a variety of colors, but also from quality.

Wallpaper is used on a variety of surfaces, for example, on brick and concrete walls, which must first be plastered to create a smooth surface. They are often glued to plasterboard walls, and the question often arises whether it is necessary to putty the walls before wallpapering or whether this stage of work can be neglected. We will try to reveal the answer to this in this article.

Preparing the surfaces

Concrete or brick wall

Before gluing wallpaper on such a surface, you must use putty. In this situation, two stages are implied - applying the starting layer and then the finishing layer. In this case, it is necessary to clean the surface of debris, remove flaking old plaster and remove dust using soil.

The starting putty can be applied in a layer as thick as 60 mm in one go. It has a coarse-grained structure and therefore allows you to quickly prepare the surface for finishing. Usually they use a beacon system, which makes it possible to properly level the surface.

After this, the wall is given time to dry completely. If you do not wait, then in these places the wallpaper will begin to wrinkle and bubble, as the material will begin to deform as it dries.

Advice: you can check visually whether the surface has dried or not - there are dark spots on it, which means it is not yet time for further work.

The second stage is covering the gypsum boards themselves with a thin layer finishing putty with your own hands. Although there are finishers who skip this stage in order to complete the work faster.

But let's see what this could mean in the future. For example, after 10 years or earlier you want to change the interior of the apartment, for which the best and quick way- re-glue the wallpaper.

What will happen as a result is that the old panels will “peel off” along with the cardboard surface of the slabs, exposing a layer of gypsum. Such sheets cannot be used in the future; they should be replaced. Thus, you have to waste money and time.

If you had previously covered the surface of the plasterboard sheets with finishing putty, such a misunderstanding would not have occurred. Therefore, the answer is unequivocal - putty on gypsum boards is required.

Now about the joints. They can be reinforced without using additional materials for this. In the first case, use any starting and finishing putty, in the second - a special mixture for sealing joints of gypsum boards "Uniflot".

But even in this case, additional processing will not hurt.

1. Buy fiberglass in a store or market, which is usually sold in rolls 1 m wide, the price of which is quite affordable.
2. Also buy PVA glue marked “construction”.
3. Use a brush to coat the dried, sealed seams between the gypsum boards.
4. Cut a 70 mm wide bobbin from the roll with a plasterboard knife and glue it to the seam. Cover it again with PVA glue on top.

After the joints have dried, apply a deep penetration primer to the gypsum board and, after it has dried, a layer of finishing putty. Only after this you can glue wallpaper onto the gypsum board without worrying that someday you will have to do costly repairs again.

Conclusion

The use of putty on the surface that will subsequently be covered with wallpaper is mandatory. This is especially true for plasterboard sheets. There is no need to make the surface perfectly smooth, small scratches will be securely hidden by wallpaper ().

In the video presented in this article you will find additional information on this topic.

Many people are perplexed about the need to putty the walls after plastering them, because the plaster seems to have been applied along the beacons, so the surface turned out to be perfectly smooth, and you can glue wallpaper on it, apply paint or finish it with other materials. Plastered walls do not need puttying only if tiles are subsequently laid on them, MDF boards or fiberglass wallpaper are glued. But these materials practically create new surfaces. And putty allows you to create the most even base for finishing with paint or more traditional wallpaper.

The most important task of putty is to level out all the depressions and irregularities on the surface.

Why do you need puttying?

So, you need to putty the walls for at least 2 reasons.

1. All pores of the plaster layer are rubbed with putty. This improves the contact of the finishing coating with the surface to be finished, reduces the consumption of the adhesive mixture and prevents the finishing layer from peeling off the wall or ceiling.
2. Puttying allows you to level out all the unevenness and repair microcracks that remain, albeit unnoticeable, even after the most skillful plastering. In addition, the putty prevents the gradual disintegration of the cement-sand surface.

Scheme for applying putty to the wall.

After wallpapering or applying paint, all the slightest irregularities will stick out very clearly. In addition, the particles of the top layer of plaster are weakly adhered to each other. Plain coatings will not be able to hide these defects, and textured finishes or coatings with a pattern applied to them will only partially mask the unevenness.

You should immediately preempt the possible question of whether it is necessary to putty drywall (after all, it is a very even and smooth material) with an affirmative answer, since the sheets of drywall are joined together and attached to the profile with self-tapping screws. During installation, dents, extra holes, etc. may form on them. In addition to sealing seams, irregularities, and holes, puttying creates a single leveled surface on the gypsum board that interacts with the coating equally over its entire area.

By the way, the joints of any board materials (plywood, OSB) prepared for subsequent finishing with paint, varnish, etc. are puttied.

We must not forget about one more reason for puttying surfaces. It is carried out (even if you have not re-plastered them) after washing off the whitewash from the walls or ceiling, cleaning the surfaces of paint or old wallpaper. In any case, after removing the old ones finishing materials planes need leveling. We can only hope that the answer to the question of whether it is necessary to putty walls and ceilings was comprehensive.

Why putty is clarified. It remains to figure out how to do this correctly so that the walls under the wallpaper or the ceiling become truly perfectly smooth. First of all, it is necessary to select the correct leveling compounds that are best suited to certain operating conditions.

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How to choose putty

Well-known brands of putty mixtures.

Today manufacturers offer dry and ready-made mixtures. Both have their advantages and disadvantages. Dry formulations can be stored for a long time, but when diluted they are only good for a short time. At the same time, dry mixes are cheaper, but also have high versatility. Ready-made solutions have a long shelf life, but are more expensive than dry solutions. In addition, putties diluted by the manufacturer tend to shrink.

Mixtures are also divided according to such indicators as the binder component. They are:

• gypsum, which are easy to apply and process, practically do not shrink, but are afraid of moisture;
• cement, suitable for work in rooms with high humidity, but losing volume when hardening;
• polymer, providing better leveling and elimination of surface defects; in addition, these putties are very elastic, but they are also the most expensive.

Putty mixtures differ in one more feature - their purpose for a certain stage of work. They are divided into:

Table of characteristics of putty solutions.

• leveling (first layer), which are used for preliminary application;
• finishing (second layer), used for final leveling;
• universal ones, which are laid both as the first layer and as the final one, however, their versatility is achieved at the expense of deteriorating characteristics in relation to “narrow-profile” mixtures.

Choose putty compositions that are most suitable for your “work area”. The recommended area of ​​application of the putty is marked by the manufacturer on each package of this product.

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How to putty correctly

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Puttying under wallpaper

It is not difficult to putty walls under wallpaper. Putty is put on a spatula and stretched over a certain area. But in order for the work to be carried out efficiently, you need to follow the recommendations.

Scheme of grouting joints with a spatula.

1. The wall must be cleared of grains of sand.
2. The surface is primed. As a result, a dense crust forms on the wall, which also improves adhesion.
3. The putty is applied after the primer has dried. The thickness of the leveling layers should not exceed 2 mm, otherwise when drying the coating may crack and crumble.
4. Start putting putty from one of the corners of the wall. Start leveling from the bottom.
5. Apply putty to all corners of the wall. You can use an angle spatula. The mixture is not applied to it, but using a syringe gun directly into the corner. The spatula only smoothes it out.
6. After finishing the corners, start working on the main surface.
7. Apply the mixture onto a spatula in small portions. For now, use a narrow tool. Once you get better at it, you can use a wider spatula. Remember that a wide tool will level a large area, but it will be somewhat harder to work with it due to the increase in the mass of the mixture.
8. Work with 2 spatulas. Apply the narrower putty to the main one. In addition, with the second spatula you can adjust the amount of mixture on the first one, remove excess from the spatula, move the putty towards the edge, etc.
9. The putty is applied in diagonal movements. Each subsequent portion of the leveler is overlapped with the previous one.
10. After the first layer has dried, which lasts at least ½ day, the surface is sanded with a special abrasive mesh attached to a block or jointer, since the edges of the spatula leave marks on the wall in the form of grooves and sagging.
11. The wall is primed again.
12. The putty is applied one more time. This is done only to correct the remaining unevenness, and not to create another layer.
13. The surface is cleaned again. Dust is removed from it. The walls are primed, but only for wallpapering.

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Leveling for painting

List of basic tools for puttying walls and ceilings.

Still, wallpaper is less demanding on the condition of the surface than paint. The walls under it should be finished with greater care. True, water-based coatings are to some extent capable of hiding minor surface imperfections, while enamels, on the contrary, will stick them out. Therefore, puttying for painting is carried out with a large number of leveling layers, with a spatula of smaller width, and sanding is carried out with a thinner abrasive.

It should be noted that defects may remain invisible or, conversely, appear at different lighting angles, so sanding of each layer should be carried out under the light of a lamp brought close to the surface. There is another way to determine how correctly the plane is formed: a rule is established on it, and with opposite side a flashlight turns on near him. All surface curves will be clearly visible. Excess putty is removed with sandpaper or a spatula, and the depressions are outlined with a pencil. After this, the unevenness is sealed with a leveling mixture, and a new layer of putty is applied.

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What is needed for puttying

So, you don't need many tools for puttying. It is enough if you have:

• a set of several spatulas with a blade width from 80 to 600 mm;
• corner spatula;
• a rubber spatula, which may be needed in hard-to-reach places;
• abrasive mesh;
• the jointer on which it is attached.

As you can see, not much is needed to make the walls or ceilings smooth. Just be patient and carry out the work with due diligence. A positive result will not be long in coming.

Similar materials

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Finishing putty for wallpaper: technology self-application, plus answers to frequently asked questions

Greetings, readers of my blog. In this article I will talk about preparing walls for wallpapering. I will also explain whether it is possible to glue wallpaper onto the finishing putty and whether it is necessary to putty the building surfaces before gluing.

I hope the topic of the article will be of interest to many, since this finishing coating for residential interiors still remains one of the most popular finishing methods.

How to level a wall without the need for subsequent sanding

Yes, there is no mistake in the title, since the instructions I offer allow you to level the building surface without the need for putty. This advantage is relevant if repairs are carried out in one room, while the remaining rooms in the apartment are used for their intended purpose.

Materials and tools

Good directional lighting is the key quality leveling walls

To level a wall plastered with a cement-sand mixture, we will use following materials and tools:

• Putty "Vetonit Polymer" on an adhesive base with crushed marble as a filler;

The advantage of this mixture is its long pot life. Having made the solution and not finished it completely, you can cover the container with sealed plastic film and the mixture will not dry out for a long time.

• Acrylic primer with good penetrating ability;
• Velor and paint trough for working with primer;
• Narrow spatula 13 cm;
• Spatula wide 35 cm;
• Spotlight or portable lamp;
• A container for preparing a solution from a dry mixture and a hammer drill with a mixer attachment.

I would like to immediately warn against using a drill to mix the dry mixture. The putty must be mixed thoroughly, passing the whisk throughout the entire volume, and this is a considerable load, due to which a conventional drill overheats and may fail. With a hammer drill you can mix any volume of solution without worrying about the load on the motor.

Application technology

The instructions for leveling walls with putty in two layers without sanding are as follows:

• On initial stage we go through all surfaces, including corners, with the edge of spatulas and thus remove unevenness and protruding lumps on the plaster;

This work must be done in a timely manner, otherwise the lumps will come off and leave grooves on the putty. For ease of work, when cleaning corners, we use a narrow spatula, and for cleaning the main surface, we use a wide spatula.

• After the surface is cleaned, cover it with one layer of primer;

• After the primer has completely dried, we begin preparing the leveling solution in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions;
• We will perform the leveling in two layers, so make the first layer thicker to fill the microrelief, and the second layer thinner.

• After the solution is ready, use a narrow spatula to apply it along the entire edge of the wide spatula and apply it to the wall;

• After applying the putty to the surface, we tighten it so that the tool rubs along the surface of the wall, and so that the putty fills all the recesses;

Grinding of the finished surface is carried out due to the presence of transitions. So that there are no transitions and the wall does not need to be sanded, we apply the mixture, for example, from bottom to top, and then pull it towards us, that is, from top to bottom. As a result, the laid layer spreads evenly over the surface, and no streaks or sagging remain.

• We go through the entire wall, after which we leave the surface until the applied layer dries completely;

For the Vetonit Polymer brand mixture, the manufacturer indicated a drying time of 1 day. For gypsum putties this period is much shorter, approximately 4-6 hours.

• After the leveling layer has completely dried, we go over it with the edge of a wide spatula in order to remove the smallest irregularities that you might not have noticed when leveling with the first layer;
• We prepare a solution with the consistency of sour cream, that is, more liquid than when applying the first layer;

• We go through the entire wall with a more liquid solution, tightening it in the same way as when working with the first layer;
• After the leveling layer has completely dried, we prime the wall, and after the primer has dried, the surface is ready for wallpapering.

If all of the above steps have been completed correctly, there will be no need to sand the surface. If there are still transitions, it means that the putty was tightened incorrectly. However, there is nothing wrong with this, and you will just have to go over the wall with a paint float and a diamond mesh.

I would like to immediately draw your attention to the design of the wide spatula. If you pick up such a tool with a working part width of more than 30 cm, you will see that the edge is slightly curved. This does not mean that the tool is defective, no - this is a feature of all wide spatulas.

So, when leveling the applied putty, we move the tool along the surface with the side where the edge is convex. If you draw with a concave edge, the ends of the working part will leave streaks. Let me clarify: small and barely noticeable, but in order to leave stripes on a layer of putty 1-2 mm thick, this is quite enough.

By the way, another important point on which the quality of the finished finish depends is the ability to hold a spatula. The photo shows an example of how to hold a spatula in order to fully control the tool.

It is in this position that it is easiest to ensure uniform pressure with the edge of the spatula on the surface to be finished and, thus, avoid the appearance of stripes and transitions.

Is it necessary to putty at all?

So, you have read the instructions for leveling the walls, but the question arises: is it necessary to putty the wall before wallpapering? This is a very common question asked by people who decide to renovate for the first time.

I can only answer this question in the affirmative - yes, it is necessary for a number of reasons, including:

• The need to level the terrain;
• The need for general strengthening of the plaster layer;
• Ensuring better adhesion;
• Reduced primer and glue consumption;
• Easy to dismantle wallpaper for subsequent repairs.

Do you think the walls you are going to wallpaper on are perfectly smooth? Most likely this is not the case.

For example, on a plastered surface cement mixtures, upon careful examination you will notice a microrelief. You will find a less intense, but still micro-relief on walls finished with gypsum starting putty.

If you do not level the microrelief, but glue it on an unprepared surface, then the rough surface of the rough plaster will probably appear through the thickness of the wallpaper, and it will be impossible to correct this defect without dismantling the wallpaper.

By the way, if you glue on an unprepared surface, there is a high probability that on top of paper or vinyl covering dark spots will appear due to uneven absorption of the glue.

The situation is somewhat different with gluing to plasterboard structures. The surface of the drywall is smooth and does not require leveling, but there are inter-plate seams that must be sealed. As a result, the absorbency of the gypsum sheet and the putty seam will be different, which means a stripe will be noticeable at the seam site.

If you glue wallpaper onto unprepared plaster, there is a high probability that the coating will crumble over time and the wallpaper will come off. A layer of finishing putty laid on the plaster will fill the microrelief, which means it will strengthen the surface and prevent it from crumbling over the next 5-10 years.

Plaster, no matter what materials it is made with, is characterized by high absorbency. As a result, a lot of glue will be used, and it costs money. In addition, the rapid absorption of the glue does not allow the wallpaper to be glued evenly, since the underside of the canvas remains partially dry.

By plastering the surface of the walls, you can reduce the absorbency of the surface, as a result of which the underside of the wallpaper will be evenly glued. In addition, any finishing putty, after drying, has a high degree of adhesion compared to unprepared surfaces.

And finally, if the wallpaper is glued directly to the drywall, there will be problems if you decide to change the coating over time. As a rule, in this case, the glued wallpaper is torn off with fragments of reinforcing cardboard, which will peel off in strips to the plaster. For comparison, it is much easier to remove pasted wallpaper from a surface treated with finishing putty.

What to choose for wall decoration

So, you need to putty the walls before wallpapering, so I suggest you decide which finishing putty is best for wallpaper.

All putties offered for sale are classified according to the degree of readiness and composition.

According to the degree of readiness, they differ:

• Dry mixtures that need to be mixed with water before use;
• Ready-made mixtures that just need to be mixed before use until a homogeneous consistency is obtained.

The performance characteristics of both categories of finishing materials are the same, provided that you are able to correctly prepare the solution from the dry mixture. By the way, the price of dry mixes is always more affordable than the cost of ready-made analogues, and this is true if large surfaces need to be leveled.

Based on their composition, commercially available putties suitable for leveling walls are divided into the following categories:

• Gypsum-based dry mixtures that have become widespread due to their affordable prices and ease of use;
• Based on acrylic resins - ready-made solutions that are characterized by versatility of use and the possibility of application in both thin and thick layers;
• Based on PVA glue - ready-made solutions that differ in the content of bactericidal additives and are suitable for both finishing leveling and sealing cracks;
• Oil-adhesive compositions are ready-made solutions suitable for application to concrete and plastered surfaces both for wallpapering and painting;
• Latex compositions are ready-made solutions that, after hardening, are characterized by elasticity and resistance to cracking.

What to choose for DIY application? Choice optimal option depends on the materials used during the initial leveling of building surfaces and on the budget allocated for repairs.

If you have little money and little experience with leveling mixtures, I recommend choosing inexpensive ones gypsum putties. Such materials are on sale from various brands, and therefore there will be no problems with the choice.

If you decide not to skimp on the purchase of finishing materials and if there is a busy highway near the house or railways, I recommend choosing latex putty. The fact is that this category of finishing materials, after drying, demonstrates the greatest resistance to seismic activity and shrinkage processes.

Now that you know which finishing putty to choose for wallpaper, let’s look at the instructions for preparing building surfaces with your own hands using a simple and accessible tool.

Conclusion

Now you know that It is mandatory to putty the walls before wallpapering, The technology of work and recommendations for the selection of materials are described in sufficient detail.

Still have questions about the proposed instructions? Ask about what interests you in the comments to the text. In addition, I recommend watching the video in this article, I’m sure you will find it interesting.

Putty will hide the seams

Sealing joints

Fasteners

Putty compounds

• cement;
• gypsum;

Foundation qualities

• non-flammability;
• low cost;

Related articles:

Before gluing wallpaper, it is imperative to prepare the walls - prime them and finish them with putty. This allows you to achieve the required level of surface smoothness. What to do if you are going to glue wallpaper onto drywall? Do I need to putty it? The answers are in our article!

1 Plasterboard walls - are they smooth?

Regardless of the quality and density of the wall covering, craftsmen most often advise putting putty on the drywall before wallpapering. Although some try to avoid this work. The sheets themselves undergo careful processing; as a result, the surface of the product is actually very smooth, and the wall becomes smooth after covering with sheets. However, this is clearly not enough for wallpapering.

It is very difficult to fit two sheets of plasterboard with millimeter accuracy

The seams are of greatest importance here. No master can perfectly fit two sheets of plasterboard with millimeter precision. In any case, there will be a slight difference, and for wallpaper this option is absolutely unacceptable, since after pasting all the seams will clearly stand out against the general background. Another problem that appears after installing drywall is fasteners. Generally, screw heads will stick out no matter how hard you try. The head should be flush with the surface of the drywall, but most often you end up either recessing the screw too much or not tightening it tightly enough.

If you are making a rounded wall, it is also better to putty the drywall under the wallpaper. After all, with such installation, the gypsum board bends. The effect is achieved by piercing the drywall with a special roller, after which the holes are thoroughly moistened. As in other cases, regardless of the professionalism of the work performed, the recesses from the holes will be felt under any wallpaper, even the most durable.

2 Why is wall preparation so important?

As a rule, puttying is used in cases where the walls are characterized by a large number of cracks, protrusions, recesses and other mechanical defects. It should be understood that, despite the thickness and strength of the wallpaper, all the shortcomings that were described above will certainly manifest themselves some time after gluing. That's why experienced craftsmen It is recommended to putty plasterboard walls before applying wallpaper to them. It doesn’t matter whether you choose non-woven or vinyl wallpaper, the absence of a layer of putty will negatively affect the durability and quality of the paper covering.

The screw heads must be flush with the gypsum board surface

A very important point is that in the places where the gypsum boards are fastened to the frame sheathing, as well as at the seams, small voids are formed that are filled with air. Even after pasting, the air will not disappear anywhere. Over time, a very unpleasant effect will be observed when the wallpaper gradually begins to come off in places where air masses accumulate.

It would seem, why not then apply a layer of putty exactly to those areas that promise future greatest number problems? Indeed, this will save a lot of time, as well as money on putty. However, there are some nuances here too. First of all, you should remember that the surface of drywall is different in color from putty. Therefore, the treated areas will clearly stand out after the wallpaper has dried. This is especially true for wall coverings in lighter and calmer shades.

You should also take into account possible future changes in the room. After all, if over time you stop liking the current wallpaper, or you want to use other materials, for example, the same rolled fiberglass, then the old wallpaper will need to be removed. However, this is a very complicated procedure, since it will come off along with the wallpaper. upper layer drywall. Naturally, such deformations of the top layer of gypsum plasterboard have a destructive effect on all its operational properties.

Here are a few more reasons that will convince you of the need to putty the walls before wallpapering:

• Putty, especially applied together with a primer, significantly increases the reliability, durability, and durability of the surface.
• There may well be defective sections of gypsum boards that were obtained either during transportation or during execution. construction work. However, puttying will completely mask any prominent areas.
• Drywall, as a rule, has a water-repellent surface. The consequence of this is problems with some types of adhesives, which do not adhere quite well to a wall covered with plasterboard. If you prime and putty the surface, it will acquire the necessary level of adhesion in order to adhere efficiently and reliably to any glue.

3 Putty for gypsum boards - what is better to use?

So, we came to the conclusion that it is still better to putty the walls under the wallpaper. Now let's try to decide which formulations are best suited for these purposes. Putty is divided into starting and finishing. Preference should be given to finishing compounds, since the surface of drywall initially has the required level of smoothness. If you suddenly don’t have the finishing mixture at hand, then the starting mixture will also suit you. The only difference is that the finishing putty is fine-grained; therefore, it must be applied in a thin layer, then lightly sanded.

When working with drywall, preference should be given to finishing compounds

Working with starting putty involves some additional work, including subsequent grinding, it will be necessary to achieve the desired degree of evenness and smoothness of the wall. Regardless of the type of composition chosen, drywall must be primed. You can only work with compounds intended for interior decoration. Putty for external use contains many additives that increase resistance to temperature changes and precipitation. However, such additives have a negative impact on human health due to the release of harmful waste into the environment.

When choosing a mixture for treating plasterboard walls, pay attention to its composition, as well as fillers. Typically, various polymer components, gypsum or cement are used. For ordinary residential premises, gypsum-based putties are suitable. Their cost is slightly lower. If you are going to use the mixture in rooms with increased level humidity, then you need to buy the composition for cement based. The cost of the goods in this case will be higher. Polymer substances are universal and are perfect for work in any room, although they are more expensive than all other analogues.

Dry mixtures are more popular, due to their long shelf life - in a dry state, putty can be stored for a very long time. Difficulties can only arise when mixing the substance with water, because the correct concentration has great value. Too much liquid mixture characterized by sagging and spreading over the surface. If you add insufficient water, the putty will begin to crack after drying.

Ready-made compositions can boast that they do not need to be stirred, and you can immediately get to work. However, they cannot be stored for a long time; after a few days the composition loses all its properties. The putty must be applied immediately after opening the container.

4 How to carry out the work - the subtleties of the process

First, we check how well the fasteners are made, in particular the screw heads. When puttingtying, it is better to make sure that the screws are below the surface level rather than standing out above it. To check, use a spatula to run along the drywall, pressing it tightly to the surface. You will immediately feel any changes in the surface level, including screws. Such screws need to be screwed in deeper, after which proceed to the next step.

When puttying, you need to run a spatula over the drywall, pressing it firmly against the surface.

Now apply the damper serpyanka tape, which is made from fiberglass, to the seams. We prime the gypsum board, apply the first rough layer of putty and glue the tape to the seams, gently pressing it with a little force. A solution appears through the mesh, which should be thoroughly spread with a spatula. The sagging that appears should not upset you; after grouting, not a trace will remain of them. After the solution has dried, it needs to be sanded a little using sandpaper or a grater. This is followed by a layer of primer and putty again.

Experts recommend applying two layers of finishing putty to achieve maximum results. Naturally, all work is carried out only after the previous layer of primer or putty has dried. Due to this, it may take quite a lot of time, usually about three days. You need to putty when there is good artificial lighting, which is located on the side. A powerful lamp is ideal for these purposes. It will allow you to identify possible flaws and instantly correct them.

Having leveled the walls in an apartment with drywall, many people wonder: is it necessary to putty the drywall before hanging wallpaper? After all, plasterboard sheets have a fairly flat surface on which wallpaper will stick without any problems. But if you try to understand this topic in more detail, you will understand that putting drywall under the wallpaper will help you avoid many unpleasant moments.

Why do you need to putty drywall before wallpapering?

Puttying drywall is necessary for several reasons:

1. A wall covered with plasterboard sheets will still not be perfectly smooth. The joints of the sheets and the places where they are fastened with self-tapping screws will be noticeable under the wallpaper, especially if it is thin and light enough.
2. During installation or operation, walls made of plasterboard, which is a fairly fragile material, can receive various damage. All of them will also clearly appear under the wallpaper.
3. The wall must be completely puttied. There is a temptation to process only the joints and fastening points, but there is no need to succumb to it. Yes, it’s faster and easier, but what if you want to change the wallpaper? Without additional surface treatment, they will adhere tightly to the drywall. You will have to glue new wallpaper onto the old ones or change the plasterboard base after trying to remove the old wallpaper. Putty and drywall primer will help avoid these problems.

Preparation for putty

Before you putty the drywall under the wallpaper, the surface needs to be prepared.

• At the initial phase, debris and dust should be removed from the sheets.
• Check that the screws are screwed in correctly. The protruding fasteners must be tightened using a screwdriver.

Attention! If the screw is screwed in too deeply, more than half the thickness of the sheet, then you will have to unscrew it completely. The new self-tapping screw must be screwed into the wall at a distance of at least 5 cm from the remaining empty hole.

• To identify defects in the wall, you need to run a wide spatula over it. It should glide smoothly. Any deep dents or scratches found on the wall are repaired before the main layer of putty is applied.
• Before applying putty, the wall must be primed. Primer, better water based, apply with a roller in one layer and allow to dry. Acrylic primer for drywall under wallpaper will not cause warping of the drywall sheet, and after drying it will provide reliable adhesion to the applied putty.

Typically, plasterboard sheets have chamfered edges. If it is missing, you need to cut them with a knife at an angle of 45 degrees. A chamfer is needed for more high-quality processing joints, the layer of putty on them should be thicker.

• Also, all joints must be glued with reinforced sickle mesh. It must be slightly pressed into the recess, positioned so that the seam runs exactly in the middle of the tape.

Putty joints

First of all, you should putty all the joints of the sheets.

For work, it is advisable to use narrow and wide spatulas. Narrow ones are convenient for applying putty to the seam, and wide ones are convenient for leveling it.

Work is carried out in a top-down direction. The composition should fill the seam completely, even protrude slightly, since the putty shrinks when it dries. After the walls treated in this way have dried, the excess can be removed by sanding. If it is not possible to fill the seams in one layer, you need to let the composition dry, and only then repeat the operation.

Putty corners

How to putty the corners of drywall? This is one of the most difficult stages that preparation involves plasterboard structures for wallpapering. Walls can form internal and external corners, and they are treated differently.

To remove external corners special elements are used. These are perforated corners made of plastic or aluminum. The former are used when processing curved corners, such as arches. Using rigid aluminum corners, right angles are created.

• The corner is applied to the wall at the attachment point and outlined with a pencil.
• The drywall is cut with a knife slightly wider than the resulting contour, at a distance of 3 mm from the marking lines.
• Using a chisel, select a groove for the corner, which should also be slightly larger than the thickness of the latter.

• The resulting recess in the wall is coated with glue or putty, and then a corner is pressed into it. At the same time, it should sink a little compared to general level walls.
• The mortar protruding through the perforation of the corner is leveled, and after drying the corner is puttied flush with the wall.

The process is quite long, but while one corner is drying, you can work on the rest.

Preparing drywall for wallpapering also includes processing the internal corners.

• Like seams, at the initial stage they are glued with reinforcing tape.
• The sides of the corner are puttied alternately, using a special corner spatula.

Treatment of gypsum board fastening points

When attaching plasterboard sheets, use a large number of self-tapping screws The depressions formed in the places where they are attached must also be leveled.

Advice: it is advisable to work on the fastening points in parallel with the processing of corners and seams: during these processes there is always a small excess of material that can be used to seal the screw heads.

In this case, the putty should be applied in a crosswise motion, this will help to achieve a smooth surface better and faster.

Putty the entire surface of the plasterboard wall

Subsequently, the entire surface of the wall is covered with a thin layer of putty.

Some professionals advise diluting the putty mixture to a more liquid state and using a brush to apply.

After drying, the leveled surface is checked, for which you can use a building level. When applying putty to the wall, remember that protrusions are preferable to depressions, as they can be easily removed by sanding.

The drywall treatment is completed before wallpapering by sanding and priming the resulting surface:

• Protrusions, sagging and unevenness formed during the puttying process can be removed with fine sandpaper or cutting off the reinforcing tape.
• Then the surface must be cleaned of dust and coated with a primer.

After the primer has dried, you can begin the final stage of finishing - gluing the wallpaper.

Wallpapering on drywall coated with putty is very easy and gives a guaranteed high-quality result. And most importantly, when you subsequently change the wallpaper, you will avoid the headache of thinking about how to remove the old wallpaper - the canvas can be removed from the puttied surface without much effort.

Puttying drywall before wallpapering - pros and cons

Almost any repair is complete without the use of drywall. This universal construction material capable of performing several functions, while its cost is low. Using plasterboard sheets you can level walls, make multi-level ceilings, create partitions, built-in niches, you can also make a soundproofing wall and much more. By doing interior work With the use of plasterboard, it becomes necessary to process its front side so that the design of the room is beautiful and stylish.

Plasterboard sheets are used to level surfaces. Therefore, by covering the walls with such sheets, we obtain flat areas to which external processing can be applied to complete the design of the room.
There are several types of drywall coating, but the simplest method that has gained popularity among people is to glue wallpaper onto it. This option is easy to implement with your own hands and the cost of its implementation will be minimal.

Before gluing the wallpaper, you need to decide whether you need to putty the drywall under the wallpaper.

Wallpapering after puttying.

Gluing wallpaper onto drywall without putty - disadvantages

• The surface of the drywall, although it seems smooth, may have manufacturing defects and scratches resulting from installation. Wallpapering will make all these defects visible on the surface of the walls;
• The joints between the plasterboard sheets will be visible on the wallpaper, making the walls appear uneven;
• The fasteners that attach the sheets to the profiles can be visible under the wallpaper, or they can rust, thereby spoiling the appearance of the pasted surfaces;
• If the selected wallpaper is of light shades, then the color of the plasterboard wall may be visible through it;
• During the next renovation, it will not be possible to remove wallpaper strips from the walls without damaging the surface of the drywall. Since the top layer of plasterboard is cardboard, the wallpaper will stick to it very firmly, and if it is torn off, the top layer of the plasterboard sheet will be damaged.

Tips that you must follow when doing wallpapering on drywall with your own hands

If you decide to glue wallpaper onto drywall without prior puttying, you must adhere to the following recommendations:

• Before gluing, treat with an anti-corrosion agent. metal parts on drywall;
• It is advisable to putty the joints of the plasterboard sheets;
• Choose dense wallpaper, possibly bright colors, preferably with a non-uniform texture;
• Please note that if non-moisture resistant drywall is used, it cannot be treated generously with glue, as it may become wet;
• The joints of glued wallpaper strips should not coincide with the joints of plasterboard sheets;
• For long-lasting wallpaper service choose quality material, so that they do not have to be torn off in the near future, thereby damaging the walls.

However, if finishing work on drywall is carried out correctly and efficiently, then its surface must be puttied before further processing. When carrying out repairs with your own hands, you need to know how to putty drywall under wallpaper.

Choice of putty

First you need to choose the right putty. There are two types of putty for puttying walls:

Dry putty must be brought to the desired consistency yourself. This can be difficult to do if you do not have the necessary tools to stir the mixture. Also, this mixture dries faster, so the work must be done fairly quickly.

The finished solution dries more slowly and is easier to apply, but is more expensive. Therefore, the choice of putty depends on material capabilities.

When working, you will need two types of putties: starting (with a large fraction) and finishing (fine, for the final smoothness of the walls).

Puttying drywall: how to do the job.

Stages of puttying drywall:

• Prime the entire surface plasterboard sheet. It is good to prime joints, scratches, defects, if any;
• The joints are glued with sickle tape and puttied;
• The entire surface of the wall is puttied; it is recommended to putty three times. Before each subsequent use, the putty must be completely dry;
• Sand the surface with sandpaper until the wall is completely smooth;
• Final priming. It is carried out for better adhesion of the putty surface to the wallpaper.

How to prepare drywall for finishing.

For people who make repairs with their own hands, let's take a closer look at the stages of puttying drywall.

To prime a plasterboard wall, you can choose an acrylic primer; it will protect against fungi and provide good adhesion to the putty. It is better to apply the primer with a wide brush so as to coat the entire surface well.

When puttingtying walls, you need to have two spatulas: a narrow one and a wide one. Use a narrow spatula to scoop up the putty, and apply it to the wall with a large one. Tape the joints with reinforcing tape to prevent the wall from cracking in these places.

Using a spatula to putty drywall.

After completing the puttying and complete drying, the surface must be sanded. However, you should not sand too hard so as not to remove the top layer of putty, otherwise you will have to start all over again. Before you start grouting the walls, it is advisable to wear a mask or respirator to avoid inhaling dust.

After preparing the walls, you can proceed directly to wallpapering.

Thus, there are two ways to glue wallpaper onto drywall: without preliminary puttying of the walls and with puttying. It all depends on the desired result and financial capabilities. The result obtained by preliminary puttying of the plasterboard sheet will look better and more durable.

Wallpapering on drywall after puttying.

Picture 3. Wallpapering on drywall after puttying.

You can glue wallpaper without puttying, then you need to pay special attention to the quality and density of the wallpaper. It is necessary that the papered walls look decent for as long a period of time as possible.
The preparatory work carried out before pasting requires a lot of time and work skills. However, don't despair, it's worth it. A well-painted room with your own hands will delight you for a long time and bring satisfaction from the work done.

Is it necessary to putty drywall under wallpaper?

Doubts about whether it is necessary to putty drywall before wallpapering require a reasoned consideration of the reasons for sequentially performing this type of work.

This question may not apply to temporary buildings, in which the long-term preservation of the appearance of the walls is not essential, the application of liquid wallpaper or the gluing of a fiberglass topcoat, which is only going to be painted for the entire 30 years of its service.

In other cases, creating such a layer before gluing roll material plays an important role.

Practical value of putty

Putty will hide the seams

Replacing traditional plaster with modern technology frame sheathing with sheets industrial production creates a desire to simplify installation even more.

Indeed, why putty on drywall if the glue conveniently and firmly connects the paper surface of the plasterboard with the wallpaper?

The list of the main reasons for a careful approach to this stage of preparation for wallpapering looks like this:

Metal corners protect corners from mechanical damage

Deviations of the plane from the standard up to 3 mm when installing plasterboard fragments are eliminated using putty.

1. The design contains metal parts (screws, angles) that are recessed into the plane of the sheet. These irregularities must be eliminated and, in addition, the metal must be protected from moisture - over time, rust may appear on the surface of the finish.
2. The edges of plasterboard products perform various shapes, so they must be aligned with the main surface.
3. Gluing drywall to a protective paper layer will not allow you to remove old wallpaper without damaging it. Applying a continuous layer of putty to the entire plane of the sheet will allow in the future, instead of overhaul with the replacement of damaged gypsum board sheets, and ongoing replacement of decorative finishes.

Defects are detected by running a wide spatula along the wall.

Detection of minor defects in the surface assembled on the frame is carried out with a wide construction spatula. When its blade slides smoothly across the cardboard, dents, traces of impact, and scratches are revealed.

The general rule and construction level reveal the curvature of the plane. Deep depressions on the plasterboard wall are sealed with a leveling compound before applying a continuous thin layer of putty.

Taking into account the above circumstances, the question “is it necessary to putty plasterboard under the wallpaper?” will have a clear answer “yes”.

Sealing joints

Seams are sealed in several stages using mesh

Putty at the joints is a separate list of operations, since the entire cutting pattern will certainly appear under the glued strips. During installation, it will not be possible to obtain an identical surface plane; there will be minor differences, deflections, unevenness, temperature, vibration, or displacement of fragments separated by gaps due to changes in air humidity.

In order to eliminate such shortcomings, the seams are not simply covered up, but this is done in several stages and reinforced with reinforcing tape:

Actions to seal joints are carried out from top to bottom. The underlying layer is pressed into the joint with a spatula to fill it completely to the maximum penetration depth.

As the putty dries, it will shrink, so it is applied in a thick layer. Protruding residues can be removed by sanding after hardening.

Sink the screw heads into the drywall

Self-tapping screw heads and squares that align perpendicular joints of the coating must be immersed in drywall.

The installation location of the corner on the wall is first marked in the right place with a pencil. Drywall is cut with a sharp knife 3 mm wider from the resulting contour line.

The recesses from the fasteners are puttied after sealing the seams.

Putty compounds

To carry out the work, you need to choose the right materials. Before applying the putty, the sheets are treated with a penetrating primer and allowed to dry for 4 hours.

According to their purpose, putty compositions are divided into starting mixtures and finishing mixtures. Starter is used for the initial preparation of the surface to be treated for finishing coating. It has good adhesion and adheres confidently to other materials. A smooth outer surface is achieved using ready-made finishing solutions.

These materials are produced for both external and internal work. Quality directly depends on the cost of the material - a low attractive price indicates the possibility of the same quality of components used for production. In addition, inexpensive mixtures show increased consumption, which does not result in cost savings.

Dry mixtures are diluted before application

The putty mixture is sold in the form of a dry powder, which is diluted with water or finished form measuring container. The peculiarity of the liquid composition is that it needs to be consumed in a fairly short time.

Ready-made putties from well-known manufacturers are manufactured in a factory in compliance with technology, have the required dosage and consistency, which is important for the quality result of the entire putty process.

Based on the choice of the main component, they are divided into 3 types:

• cement;
• gypsum;
• polymer. For more information on how to putty a gypsum board base, watch this video:

When applied to gypsum plasterboard, it is permissible to use various compositions depending on room conditions. For bathrooms, use only cement-based putty. Polymer compositions are quite versatile, but have a high cost.

Foundation qualities

The resulting base should ensure a smooth fit of the finishing finish without any bumps

When deciding whether it is necessary to putty drywall under wallpaper, it is worth considering the advantages of the material itself, which is better protected and preserved for long-term use.

The material has become so popular in construction due to its distinctive qualities:

• environmental cleanliness, safety for the health of residents;
• non-flammability;
• ease of installation work;
• low cost;
• ease of processing for any solution;
• strengthening the heat and sound insulation of the room;
• minimum preparatory work for any finishing.

Sheathe a wall, level the surface, change the layout, install additional partitions - just do it yourself using gypsum plasterboard.

Which is better: gypsum fiber board and plasterboard on the walls

Painting drywall without putty

Which is better: plaster or drywall for walls?

Is it necessary to putty plasterboard under wallpaper: type of materials used, puttying walls and wallpapering

Is it worth gluing wallpaper onto clean drywall or would it be better to cover the surface with a layer of putty in advance? A similar question arises if the repair is done with your own hands and at the same time you really want to cope with the task quickly and at minimal cost.

It would seem, what is the problem? Wallpaper is essentially paper and plasterboard is covered with paper, which means that paper to paper will stick well. But there are several nuances that should be taken into account when making the final decision to conduct finishing works.

Surface for puttying

Type of materials used

In the photo - moisture-resistant gypsum boards

Despite the fact that plasterboard appeared in the post-Soviet space relatively recently, it has managed to become one of the most sought-after and popular finishing materials. Currently, there are two main varieties of this material on sale, namely, regular and moisture-resistant modification.

As the name suggests, the usual modification is used when finishing rooms with a normal level of humidity, while the moisture-resistant type of drywall can be used where the level of moisture in the air is excessive (bathroom, kitchen, balcony, etc.).

In addition to different operational features, ordinary and moisture-resistant gypsum boards behave differently when wallpapering. For example, the surface of ordinary drywall provides good adhesion due to the fact that it absorbs wallpaper glue. The moisture-resistant modification of gypsum board is less prone to absorbing glue, and therefore the adhesion of wallpaper and surface is insufficient.

The lack of adhesion can be compensated for by a layer of putty. The putty fits equally well on the surface of any drywall, and wallpaper on an even layer of this finish also demonstrates optimal adhesion.

Another important point is the type of wallpaper used. For example, it is dangerous to glue thin wallpaper onto drywall because it will show through. As a result, on the walls, in addition to the pattern on the wallpaper itself, the markings applied to the plasterboard from the factory will be noticeable.

There is a high probability that transitions from untreated drywall to joints covered with putty will be noticeable through thin wallpaper.

Without puttying the surface of the walls, you complicate the following repairs

However, there is a more important reason why it would be better to putty the surface before installation. The fact is that even high-quality wallpaper, regardless of its modification, can become boring over time. And if you plan a cosmetic renovation, you will probably face the problem of dismantling the old coating.

If wallpaper from a previously puttied surface can be removed without special labor, then the same material glued directly to drywall is much more difficult to remove. As a result, fragments of old wallpaper will remain on the surface of the gypsum board or the plasterboard structure will be damaged altogether and will require repairs with mandatory putty.

So, what conclusion can be drawn from all of the above? There is no universal answer to the question of whether it is necessary to putty drywall before wallpapering. But, if you need maximum confidence in the optimal result of finishing work, it would be better to putty, sand and prime the surface.

We putty walls quickly and efficiently

Universal putty, the price of which is justified by the quality

Once we have decided that there is no need to putty walls, let’s look at the instructions for finishing work. Since we are plastering the walls under wallpaper, we should use gypsum mixtures intended for finishing.

To carry out the planned work you will need the following tool:

• clean plastic bucket with a volume of 10 liters;
• low speed drill and special nozzle for mixing;
• wide spatula and narrow spatula;
• rule at least 1.5 m long;
• a float with clamps and zero-grit sandpaper.

Materials you will need:

• dry mixture for finishing drywall;
• mesh tape for sealing joints;
• acrylic primer;
• water.

The photo shows the distribution of the putty layer

Finishing work is carried out as follows:

• The surface of the gypsum board is thoroughly dusted and primed.
• After the primer has dried, prepare the putty solution in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.
• Using a small spatula, scoop up the solution and attach the mesh tape over the gaps.
• Then fill the recesses for the screws with the solution.

It is important to begin subsequent work only after the applied putty has dried.
In this way, it will be possible to avoid the occurrence of bumps and cracking.

• Next, using a small spatula, apply the solution along the entire length of the large spatula and spread it evenly over the entire wall. As a result, the thickness of the putty coating should be no more than 1-2 mm.
• After applying an even layer, wait 2 to 4 days for everything to dry, after which you can begin sanding.

Important: When sanding, a lot of fine dust is generated, so using a respirator will be very helpful.

To summarize the above, we note that putty will delay wallpapering for no more than one week, but in this case the waste of time is completely justified.

We glue the wallpaper correctly

Applying glue to the strip

Wallpapering on drywall begins with preparing the surface. To do this, the pre-plastered wall is carefully primed in two layers with a time interval necessary for each layer of primer to dry.

If the installation of plasterboard structures was carried out with high quality and in accordance with technological requirements, then wallpapering will not become something difficult.

We will need the following tools:

• special rectangular container to dip the roller into glue;
• a clean plastic bucket for preparing glue;
• roller with medium length pile;
• brushes (narrow for gluing corners and wide for working at the junction of walls and ceilings);
• sharp mounting knife;
• wallpaper brush.

Let's get started:

• We prepare glue in the proportions specified by the manufacturer.
• We try on the wallpaper according to the height of the wall.
• We spread a strip of wallpaper over a previously prepared surface.
• We cover the wallpaper with a thick layer of glue and leave it for a while so that the base has time to soak in.
• We cover with glue a part of the wall 10 cm wider than the width of the roll.

Important: Gluing can be done end-to-end or overlapping, but, one way or another, we start from the window towards the door.

• We unfold the first strip and glue it so that the margin at the ceiling is 20 mm. At the same stage, we check the perpendicularity of the strip to the horizon line.

Important: Regardless of how smooth the walls are and the method of gluing, approximately a third of one roll will be spent on adjustment and the forced overuse of wallpaper per average room.

In the photo - gluing the strip and smoothing it with a wallpaper brush

• After the strip is applied, smooth it with a wallpaper brush, first from top to bottom, and then from the sides to disperse the air.
• Next, we cut the strip along the floor line and make cutouts for sockets and switches. Such work is carried out when the power supply is turned off.

Now you will find out whether it is necessary to putty drywall before gluing wallpaper, as well as how to work with putty and how to glue wallpaper. All that remains is to purchase the necessary materials, prepare the required tools and get to work.

How to make a plasterboard screen for a bathtub with your own hands?

Priming walls, plastering, puttying are basic operations in the process of bringing surfaces to the stage of readiness for further painting or wallpapering. A simplified scheme of work is as follows: plaster, primer after plaster, putty, sanding, coating paint and varnish material or wallpapering. Puttying the walls after plastering is considered the final preparatory operation.

Even due to the fact that today plastering is provided by a wide selection of materials for interior work and exterior finishing, and having completed the work, you can achieve an ideal plane (there is no question whether it is possible to putty the walls, for example, after finishing with gypsum plaster - the procedure is not necessarily included in the order of execution repair work) – financial expenses for such plastering work are extremely high.

The classification of putty materials is carried out according to several criteria. The grouping sequence is determined by the key factors and properties of the putty, combining the mixtures into the following classes:

• Oil-glue. If you need the cheapest mixture, this group is suitable. It is unknown whether oil solutions will continue to have a future, since they are already considered a thing of the last century. The main disadvantage is the appearance of yellow spots through the paint layer and wallpaper.

• Gypsum cement. The materials are much more expensive. Designed for a full range of general finishing operations. Domestic products most often contain more cement than gypsum. Based on the cement and gypsum base, the main purpose of the powder was determined for the craftsmen - having covered the layer of plaster with soil, you will most likely putty the walls with the composition for further wallpapering.

• Water-dispersed. Also from the category of gypsum cement, however, they are necessarily produced in a batch with an aqueous polymer emulsion, respectively, containers - buckets. The advantage is that you don’t need to study on the packaging what to do and in what proportion to dilute the putty - the product is already ready for use.

• Acrylic. After puttying with a similar composition, all the advantages of the above groups (except oil) will appear.

Workflow Stages

Surface cleaning

When to putty the walls after old plaster, worn-out wallpaper and layers of paint must be removed. A special remover helps remove the remains of unnecessary material. After the manipulations, the walls must dry - they are left for about a day.

Drying is followed by thorough visual check: missed small parts are cleaned with a mounting knife or a thin spatula.

Relief inspection

The relief plane is inspected with a flashlight, using the construction rule: it is applied to the surface, and the flashlight is shined along the wall. The smallest recesses and protrusions are obvious. Rough bumps should be beaten off on the spot with a plane or a sharp spatula, and the grooves should be marked along the contour with a simple pencil.

Related article: Features of fiberglass wallpaper for painting

Preparing tools

Before starting the repair process, the entire set of tools is carefully wiped from dust with a rag, washed with dishwashing detergent and dried with a thick cloth that does not leave fibers on the items being wiped. It is worth carefully making sure that there are no residues of solutions from previous batches on the mixer from the drill and mixing container - lumps of old solutions need to be picked out.

Preparation of putty mixture

The process of preparing the solution is not complicated:

1. Fill the container with running water (a construction bucket is filled a quarter full, a regular bucket is filled a third).
2. Dry powder is added little by little until the tip of the “iceberg” is above the water.
3. Wait up to 30 seconds until the powder absorbs water and sag: no dry formations should remain.
4. With a quick, precise movement using a drill attachment, knead for 2 minutes. (drill is preferable, but manual work is also acceptable).
5. Wait 30-60 seconds..
6. Repeat kneading. The consistency has been brought to perfection – the solution is ready.

Under no circumstances should the prepared solution be diluted. extra water or dry powder. We'll have to work with what we got. In case of defects, the putty composition will tolerate excess liquid; after hardening, there is always the opportunity to go over the area with abrasive and reapply where necessary.

Do not forget about the shelf life of the finished solution after mixing: it is better to mix several portions. Each portion is placed on a wide spatula with smaller ones, calculating the amount needed for one stroke.

Leveling the terrain

Small recesses and cracks are covered with a medium or wide spatula, depending on the size of the defect. Grouting is done with wide crosswise movements with the same force until a smooth surface without sagging or scuffing.

A common mistake among inexperienced craftsmen is to slowly, applying pressure, pull out the spatula. Putty of any brand is endowed with a thixotropic characteristic, which leads to rapid, correct dispersion with periodic equal force exposure from several sides.

In the video: the process of puttingtying a wall with your own hands.

Hardening of the putty layer

When hardening the putty, it is necessary to use all precautions as for hardening plaster: through air currents, direct sunlight, heat waves from a fan heater or hair dryer are absolutely contraindicated. Cracks in the wall as a result of drying are already unpleasant, but a putty layer damaged by improper drying can warp, which will only appear at the stage of wallpapering or painting.

Indoor air circulation should be adjusted to avoid drafts and temperature fluctuations. More specifically, you can open room door, however, leave the balcony closed. For the corridor - allow air to circulate from the living rooms by tightly closing the doors to the street, kitchen and bathroom.

Instructions for use most often indicate a drying period of up to 16 hours for the coating, but in reality it is 10-12 hours. However, it is advisable to sand the layer no earlier than a day has passed: the putty will dry out reliably, harden, and subsequent operations will be easier.

Puttying under wallpaper

For the purpose of further wallpapering, the putty is initially carried out with a wide spatula, covering with each subsequent layer up to ¼ of the previous one. The resulting “sausages” are not ground. Holding the spatula at an angle of 21-30 o, maintain constant pressure, which will help distribute the material in an even layer of 2 to 4 mm. How smaller angle tilt, the more it leads to the formation of a thick layer, the more - to a thin one. However, the dependence is typical for variations in the specified degree interval; when going beyond its limits, bumps and breaks form on the surface.

The next step is drying the layer, removing beads with a jointer and abrasive and checking the smoothness using building regulations and a lantern. The resulting defects are eliminated: protrusions - with abrasive, recesses - with additional lubrication. It is possible that an inexperienced master can approach the wall up to 5 times until the surface becomes perfect.

At the end of the manipulations and long hardening, they go over the wall with a jointer with a mesh size range of 80-120 (with an increase in the number, the abrasive grain decreases). Initially, the entire surface is worked with circular movements, after which, loosening the grip, movements are criss-cross in order to remove the contours of circular manipulations.

Then the wall is again checked according to the building rules with the lantern. If there are no lingering reflections from the rule, the surface is ready, after a day the walls are primed and you can start gluing.

Puttying followed by painting

The technological process is different from puttying followed by wallpapering in one operation: after final leveling and rubbing with an abrasive material, the wall is covered with finishing plaster. Particular attention is paid to the wall, if it is to be painted with enamel, in particular acrylic, then the finishing mixture must be white, durable and specially designed for this purpose.

Grouting is done with an abrasive with a fine grain of at least 150.

For mirror painting, the wall is also polished with a polishing trowel with suede material (felt and felt pieces are not suitable). A used suede cover will not cope with the task - it will have to be replaced with a new one. Also, for painting, the wall must be primed in accordance with the instructions indicated on the packaging of the material.

Related article: Technology of puttying concrete and plasterboard ceilings

The nuances of puttying corners and slopes

Inexperienced craftsmen are often recommended to apply more than the required amount of material to the corners, followed by rubbing with an abrasive product. But when it is planned to apply silicone to any area with a gun before puttying, physical costs can be reduced, while at the same time increasing the efficiency of the result.

Work plan:

1. When the silicone is used up, you need to unscrew the tube, remove the residue and wipe it with a rag soaked in vinegar solution.
2. During puttying, the corner is bypassed, leaving unfilled.
3. When the wall is dry, you need to fill the tube with putty and slowly squeeze it into the corner crack. It is recommended, if possible, to do the procedure from bottom to top in one approach.
4. Next, they work with an angled spatula, resting on the surface, similar to plastering on beacons.
5. After drying, the protrusions will need to be removed with an abrasive mesh.

Instead of a silicone tube, you can use a syringe used when baking cakes. With rubber or foam pads and fixation with electrical tape, the pastry syringe is fixed in the gun like a glove.

At the corners of the slopes, the master works with an angular trowel of his choice using any of the methods known to him, knocks down the protrusions with an abrasive mesh, and checks the smoothness using the construction rules. There is no significant difference in the process of laying the putty layer on the walls and in the corners, but the corners are difficult to bring to the ideal - a professional will need to step up to two times.

Tips from experts on puttying (2 videos)

What you might need (25 photos)