Can wax be coated with varnish? Vitreous and wax varnish. Applying liquid wax

For various reasons, there may be a need to replace one protective composition with another after their application or after some time of operation of the already treated surface. The desire or need to treat a surface with Oil and wax that was previously varnished or to apply a harder and wear-resistant varnish to the surface instead of oil and wax may be required due to an initially incorrectly selected protective coating for a particular surface of a house or bathhouse or due to a selection error protective composition handler. And also if the customer overestimated the protective characteristics of the composition he chose, made mistakes when using the treated surface as a result of not regularly updating the applied protective finishing coating, or in cases where there is a need to restore damaged areas of wood, which is only possible with impregnation of a different class.

lookapplying Oil and Wax to the Varnish.

The choice between varnish, paint, wood oil and wood wax is best made right away. This will avoid additional costs and some difficulties that may arise when changing the protective coating. different types.
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In order to apply oil or wax to previously treated with varnish or paint wooden surface- varnish and paint will have to be COMPLETELY removed. These requirements will have to be met, because Through a hard film of varnish or an oil film, even if cracked and partially, it will be impossible to evenly saturate and correctly apply wood oil, much less thick wax. The only thing that makes the task easier is that the varnish lies directly on the surface of the wood and can be applied quite easily cleared using a sander, grinder, sanding logs or timber, or sanding floorboards or parquet. Once the layer of varnish or paint is removed from the wood, wood oil and wood wax or hard wax mastic can be applied to the wood surface.

If for some reason you decide to apply a protective layer of varnish to a wooden surface that has previously been treated with oil or wax, then the possible result will depend on:

The type of oil or wax previously applied to the surface,
Operating time of the oil-treated surface,
Number of oil layers during surface treatment,
How many times did the mandatory renewal of the protective layer occur?
Time that has passed since last update protective layer with oil or wax.

Wax and Wood Oil penetrate quite deeply into the capillary structure of wood and it is usually very difficult to completely remove it, as is most often recommended by many manufacturers, including manufacturers of varnishes and paints.
So we can assume that you will have two options possible solution assigned task:

If the oil or wax layer is dense enough, then you can try to scrape the surface with a scraper or grind it with a grinder with abrasive attachments with different grains. Looping and grinding can occur to a depth of up to 2 mm. Next, it is recommended to process the cleaned, sanded or scraped wood primer. The primer will bind any remaining oil that has penetrated more than 2 mm into the wood. As a primer, you can use impregnating primers that are recommended by the varnish manufacturer or that you have chosen.
You can try using a universal one, which quickly polymerizes, i.e. The plastic residues of oil that have penetrated and are located deep in the capillaries of the treated wood will become thick and hard.

We recommend that you carefully select a protective coating depending on the conditions of its use and purpose, and do not forget to periodically carry out the recommended renewal of the protective layer of the protective impregnation you have chosen.

Find out in detail about the advantages and disadvantages of different impregnations for treating floors on the individual pages of our website by clicking on the links at the bottom of this page or by selecting a ready-made answer to your question in the " " or " " section in the site header. If you encounter any difficulties in selecting the necessary impregnations, call the numbers listed on the website and receive a 24-hour FREE consultation from our specialists.

Find out in more detail everything about finishing protective impregnations, wood oil, wax, floor varnish, paint and glaze on wood:

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The use of wax compositions in decoupage of boxes and other things is becoming increasingly popular. There are many compositions, but they vary greatly in price, and the properties have not yet been widely explored in wide circles. I hope this article will become a useful addition to Elena Popova’s article About stains, waxes and oils.

I have handled 4 wax compositions, and I want to compare them.

Product No. 1 - Colorless floor mastic with orange aroma from Bitumast

Retail price: about 80 rubles

Smell chemical, not very pleasant, medium strength. Doesn't look like an orange :)

Melting: not required, soft, easy to apply.

Drying: It stains your hands a little during the first hours, but only slightly after rubbing and polishing. It catches dust and lint. A coat of shellac varnish may be needed.

Color change untreated wood: slightly darkens, slightly yellows.

Glossiness: matte, after polishing matte, slightly silky.

Scuffs: Suitable for creating abrasions.

Product No. 2 – Wax varnish Maimeri 721

Retail price: 209 rubles

Smell chemical, closer to weak, a mixture of white spirit and honey. As it dries, more and more honey.

Melting: takes a few minutes under warm water, can be warmed in warm hands.

Drying: up to 24 hours, depending on the thickness of the layer, it may stick even after (a layer of shellac varnish solves the problem)

Color change untreated wood: adds a slight honey tint, increases the intensity of the colors.

Glossiness: silky matte/semi-matte. After polishing it is more matte.

Scuffs It is not convenient to create it - at work, abrasions are more likely to arise from sandpaper or from scratching with a hard sponge. It cannot be said that this varnish greatly facilitates the process of peeling paints.

Product #3 - Stamperia Clear Finishing Wax

Retail price: from 360 RUR

Smell

Melting: Not necessary, some are melted in a water bath. After melting it looks like “muddy water”.

Drying: does not stain your hands after just a few minutes.

Color change untreated wood: minor. Emphasizes colors.

Glossiness: matte before and after polishing.

Scuffs It's easy to create on it.

Product No. 4 – Stamperia Dark Wax Polish

Not much different from its transparent brother :)

Retail price: from 260 RUR

Smell chemical, pleasant before melting, intense chemical after melting. After drying it is pleasant again.

Melting: Not necessarily, some are melted in a water bath. After melting, the consistency and color resembles thick hot chocolate sauce for fondue.

Drying: After just a few minutes it does not stain your hands.

Color change untreated wood: greatly darkens the surface. (by the way, if you apply it over clear Stamperia wax, it doesn’t give the shade as intensely)

Glossiness: matte. After polishing it is silky, the most shiny of all 4 options.

Scuffs It’s easy to create on it + it slightly stains/aging light paint when working with a hard sponge.

Well, photos of my experiments:

Summary:

1. Due to the long period of drying and stickiness, I consider it the most inconvenient option. wax varnish Maimeri 721.

2. “Floor mastic” - I consider it a quite tolerable substitute for professional waxes. Its advantages are low cost and ease of use (no need to prepare for a long time before application). Cons: smell and dirtiness.

3. Stamperia waxes are an option for those who are serious about waxing and are not too lazy to go through the tedious procedure of warming up in a water bath every time (however, the comments suggest that this is not necessary). But this wait pays off with the speed of drying and the result. They do not require any additional coating.

4. Dark wax polish “Stamperia” - interesting option replacing stains and staining compounds. It polishes well and shines beautifully. I recommend trying it.

Heated debates about what is better for parquet: varnish or oil, do not subside. Supporters of oil coatings refer to the environmental friendliness of the product and the possibility of local restoration, but those who stand for varnishing claim that oil mixtures quickly lose their appearance. At the same time, matte varnishes are no worse aesthetically, but benefit from practicality. But it’s better to choose a floor covering based on your own preferences, the ability to care for the parquet, visual effects and other nuances. Today there are 4 options for parquet coating: varnish, oil with hard waxes, without waxes and with soft waxes.

Parquet varnish

To understand the advantages, definitions should be given according to several indicators:

The principle of protection is based on the absorption of the first layer into the wood and the formation of a protective film of each of the subsequent layers. You can apply a couple of strokes of varnish, but still get a durable, wear-resistant coating, but at the same time use a two-component polyurethane varnish for water based.

Important! For heavy traffic, the varnish layer can be applied in 6 or more layers.

Visual properties are selected depending on preferences: matting substances give different reflective effects and degrees of gloss: from glossy to ultramarine.
Tactility – important point. Varnishing even with a completely matte composition creates a certain effect. Choose for yourself whether you like to walk barefoot on the film of varnish that covers the parquet, or whether you want to feel natural wood under your feet.
The environmental friendliness of the composition depends on the presence and volume of solvents. If these are water-based mixtures, then the coating is uniquely clean. When combined with chemical solvents, the varnish becomes unsafe not only during operation, but also for several months due to the evaporation of harmful substances.
Care and cleaning. Like any professional parquet mixture, varnish requires special products. Delicate, without abrasive substances, complementing the protection with a special strengthening composition - such products will come in handy. It is important to remember that if the varnish wears off, it will not be possible to carry out a local restoration; you will have to remove all the varnish and completely cover the layer on the parquet.

Varnishing the base involves easy care or characterized by the preferences of a client who prefers to see a smooth and aesthetically flat floor. It should be noted that varnishing does not require a special tool; a roller or brush is sufficient. But minimum experience is required. Therefore, if the user has no idea how to varnish a floor, it is better to turn to those who do it professionally.

Parquet oil with hard wax

Compared to varnish, the composition has few differences, but they should also be disassembled:

The coating imitates “bare wood” after drying, maintaining protective properties comparable to varnish. In fact, this is varnishing, but with oil and wax components. After drying, the protective layer is practically indistinguishable from the varnishing layer in its characteristics.
Visually, it consists of thin layers, numbering 2, and not 3-4, like a varnish coating, resulting in a matte base that imitates natural wood, with the finest impregnation with oil. The imitation is so perfect that it gives the impression of open pores, although in fact the pores of the wood are reliably clogged with oil and wax.
Tactility is also excellent. You might think that you are walking barefoot on natural wood, feeling the entire structure of the tiles, but the parquet is reliably protected by a film.
Environmental friendliness. This is where a surprise awaits the user: many manufacturers are actively promoting products based on wax compounds. But it is not always the case. Truth: all solvents and chemical components their contents comply with the standards adopted by the standards of sanitary and hygienic norms.
Ease of care is not a problem here. You will have to buy products that are compatible with the brand of protection and provide additional qualities after drying. Local restoration is not possible; if the layers wear out, a complete sanding and recoating will have to be carried out, as is the case with varnish.

This product is chosen by users who are not ready to carefully care for parquet, but at the same time want to get the effect of a floor with a natural finish. To apply the composition, use a roller or a professional brush. At the same time, oil with hard wax does not require polishing, so you can carry out the procedure yourself, of course, with at least minimal experience.

Soft wax oil

This is a product for those who love their parquet, are ready to care for it as carefully as possible and spare no expense. And for valuable wood species, this composition is the most acceptable due to the following qualities:

Deep impregnation. Representing a coating that does not form a surface film, the composition is literally impregnated into the upper layers of wood, and the wax clogs the pores, hardening firmly in them. Today best example of this composition - Berger 100PrOil. This is a parquet flooring that requires constant maintenance. Without procedures, the layer will quickly lose its appearance and meaning. Unlike varnishing, a composition with soft wax quickly attracts dirt and requires timely cleaning of the parquet and re-processing the base. The process is constant, but you can use wood dies for a very long time without sanding, and the coating can withstand quite heavy loads.
Visual effect magnificent - it is completely natural wood with a matte, elegant sheen.
With tactile contact The warmth of the wood is preserved and the entire structure is visible. But from time to time the effect of wet wax and oil sticking will be created, which the user does not always like.
Environmentally friendly material It is clean, odorless and very comfortable for constant use.
Cleaning and maintenance are required daily. A special soap composition is added to the water, and you can use a rag or a single-disc machine. After cleaning, oil and soft wax are applied to the base, the composition dries and the floor covering is again ready for use.

Important! The use of the mixture allows you to do both local renovations of the parquet, and you can also completely remove the entire layer and clean the base.

Wear resistance. This composition is most often used in rooms with high traffic, where it is not possible to frequently re-sand the floor, but it is necessary to keep the parquet in perfect condition for as long as possible.

Professional tools are used for application: polisher, single-disc machine with a white pad, they are also used for cleaning. The wax mixture is applied in two layers with a daily interval.

Natural parquet oil without wax

Perhaps one of the most common compositions after varnishing. It has a lot of advantages and is characterized by the following qualities:

Deep impregnation. According to its principle of protection, it is a whitish or slightly tinted coating with open wood pores. The effect is achieved through the penetration of oil into the upper layers of the floor, while excess mixture must be removed immediately after the parquet is saturated.
Visual effect natural wood with a matte tint and open pores. Both colorless oil and tinted oil are used.

Important! Shade colors can be mixed to create new ones color solutions for the floor.

Tactile characteristics ideal: contact with the natural warmth of the wood without sticking.
Eco-friendly 100%. The oil, consisting only of natural components, does not emit harmful fumes and has all the properties of a hypoallergenic product.
Cleaning is required constantly. Wet cleaning using soft soapy compounds is acceptable and it is better to take natural substances specially offered by manufacturers.

The process of using a base with such impregnation implies some leaching of oil from the wood, so you will have to renew the protective layer. Unlike varnish, wood will immediately “show” the lack of oil mixture by dulling and worn areas. Therefore, it is better not to neglect the floors and carry out the impregnation procedure locally. With all its advantages and naturalness, wax-free oil is considered one of the most difficult to care for. It can be used both in high-traffic areas and at home. The frequency of care in the first case will be higher, but the entire procedure will not change. The main advantage of the composition is the extension of the service life of the parquet. It is better to apply it with a spatula, but remove excess with a polisher with a white pad; in local areas, you can remove excess oil with a highly absorbent cloth.

Finally

When choosing compositions for parquet, pay attention to the advice of professionals, when the choice of oil is much better than varnish.

Modern materials are made from both natural oils (soybean, tall oil, sunflower, linseed, etc.) and artificial ones, into which polyurethane additives can be added to increase the wear resistance of the coating. Waxes are mainly of natural origin (carnauba, candelilla, etc.). White spirit is usually used as a solvent.

Now about oils with hard wax. The definition of hard wax implies that the composition applied to the floor will increase its hardness and wear resistance. Naturally, there is no solid wax in the package - it is contained in the solution.

There are oil impregnations with a large amount of solvent (dry residue - from 25 to 40%), medium viscosity (dry residue - 40-55%) and thick (80-90% of the main substance). The greater the dry residue, the faster the material dries and absorbs less, which means that fewer layers are required. A composition with a large amount of solvent is used either or as a floor care product (penetrating deeply into the wood, it renews and restores the protective properties of the impregnation).

When to use oil

When covering a variety of exotic wood species, the structure of which contains a large number of natural oils.
When there are significant changes in temperature and humidity in the room (for example,).
When covering plank floors, parquet laid on in-floor heating systems, as well as parquet made from capricious species that quickly respond to changes in air humidity in the room.
During processing wooden floors on open verandas, platforms. Varnish can withstand a certain number of freeze-thaw cycles, while its opponent has no such restrictions.
When covering wooden floors that are often in contact with water (swimming pools, bathrooms, etc.) - approximately this technology has long been used to treat wooden decks of ships.
When to add color. You can purchase a ready-made composition of the required color, buy products different colors, which can be mixed with each other. You can also add color using special paste-like colorants.
To restore and rest your feet, physiotherapists recommend walking barefoot on an oiled floor - this massages your feet, since the coating perfectly preserves the texture of the wood surface, while the varnish evens it out.

Properties of varnish for wooden floors

The material is a solution with some chemicals, which when applied create a film. The thickness of the film depends on the thickness of the applied layer.

Varnish has qualitative advantages, including elasticity, uniformity and high adhesion to wood. There are several types of compositions based on the type of finish: matte, semi-matte or glossy. Also, the choice depends on what room it will be used for: residential or public.

When to apply varnish

If you don’t want to take care of the coating and...
When you need to increase the sliding property - this may be relevant in gyms or, for example, dance studios. For residential areas it is rather a minus.
When there is no desire to feel living tree under your feet. The varnish still neutralizes tactility.
If you know that wet cleaning will be required often. Varnish is not afraid of moisture, unlike its opponent.

Choosing what to cover a wooden floor with: oil or varnish

Surface protection

The varnish forms a rather thick protective film that lies on the surface of the wood, barely clinging to it, since it is absorbed to a depth of a fraction of a millimeter. The oil penetrates into the thickness of the parquet block, into the pores of the wood, and only a small amount remains on the surface. Protective film as such is not formed, but the tree itself becomes stronger and more wear-resistant. Wax allows you to enhance this effect. If a product with hard wax is used to cover the floor, no additional application of the material is required - almost all of it remains on the surface of the wood. If a wax-free material is used, then it is additionally applied to the surface using a special composition. Compositions with polyurethane additives, as a rule, do not require the use of wax.

The described protection mechanism has certain advantages over varnish film. As you know, wood gains and releases moisture during use. Moreover, if both materials resist the accumulation of moisture approximately equally (they are moisture protection, but not waterproofing), then with its return the picture is completely different. Moisture cannot escape through the varnish film, which is why the coating cracks and peels off. Oiled wood is permeable to vapors, which freely leave it through the pores. As a result, the floor never peels and lasts 8-12 years.

Gloss level

The degree of gloss of oil with and without wax can be different: the surface is matte, silky-matte, semi-matte, semi-gloss, glossy.

As for the degree of gloss, for varnished floors it can even be adjusted, depending on the thickness of the applied layer: from glossy to ultra-matte.

Application technology

Oil application process general case looks like that. Parquet using sandpapers with grains P24, P30, P60 and P80, then the cracks are puttied. Small surfaces can be applied with a soft rubber spatula, roller or wide brush (each manufacturer may have different preferences that should be taken into account). Apply the oil evenly in a thin layer. After this, it is allowed to soak in, and then the excess is removed and the surface is polished. When processing large surfaces, a grinding machine is used in all operations. If the product is applied in several layers, then the operations are repeated.

Then the oil hardens over a period of time (minimum 12 hours). Before full load (furniture installation), it is advisable to withstand the floor for another 3-4 days.

Applying varnish to parquet is a much longer and more complex process, requiring compliance with a number of conditions. Firstly, the room must maintain a certain temperature and humidity. Secondly, it is important to thoroughly clean the surface. Thirdly, eliminate drafts. You won't be able to make do with improvised means either - you also need special tools, and clothes. And what is most difficult is that it is impossible to redo the work quickly if there is a mistake, so many people do not risk applying the product themselves.

Care

Maintenance of oiled floors is extremely simple. Moreover, each manufacturing company offers its own set of care products. To do this, you need to add a special product to the water, which, firstly, softens the water and, secondly, removes dirt well. And manufacturers that produce products with wax also renew their coating (the composition contains hard wax).

As for dry cleaning, it is recommended to treat the floors with a cleaning agent once every six months to a year. It is applied to the floor and rubbed special nozzle for a mop or floor polisher. After it dries, the effect of renewing the floor surface appears.

If we talk about wet cleaning of varnished parquet, only a well-wrung out cloth will do, and the detergent must have neutral acidity. During dry cleaning, you can use a vacuum cleaner or broom. It is important to use a vacuum cleaner or mop carefully to avoid scratches, since partial restoration is impossible.

High-gloss coatings increase the appearance of a room, but require more careful maintenance. Floors coated with a matte or silky-matte product are much easier to care for simply because damage to their surface is less noticeable.

Partial restoration

With damaged areas of the oiled floor, proceed as follows: wash the floor using a cleaning product, then strip it down to the wood and treat it with a new layer. After this, if necessary, apply a protective layer with hard wax.

Local repair of damaged varnish coating is not possible, only complete renewal.

Conclusion

Oil on the surface of a wooden floor not only gives it high wear resistance, but also preserves the natural texture of the wood and even the surface topography. The feeling arises that under your foot there is a warm, living tree, not covered with anything. Special formulations much easier and faster to apply than varnish. The oiled surface can be wet cleaned. And most importantly, a floor treated in this way can be restored in parts, and not, as is the case with varnish, by sanding and re-coating the entire surface.

Varnish coating is a wonderful thing. It's beautiful and demanding minimal care. But it requires periodic restoration - a complex and time-consuming procedure.

By the way, when choosing, also pay attention to the possibility of reverse changes. If you want to replace the varnish, it will be quite easy to do: it does not penetrate deeply into the wood and is relatively easy to sand off the surface of the parquet. But with the reverse transition from oil to varnish, problems may arise. The oil penetrates quite deeply into the parquet tiles and it is very difficult to sand off the layer saturated with it - you will have to remove about 2 mm. If with a working layer of parquet of about 7 mm, a loss of 2 mm can somehow be tolerated, then for thinner parquet this is simply unacceptable. But even such deep grinding does not guarantee a successful result. The oil will still remain in the deep pores, which means the floor will need to be coated with a primer.

Every owner who thinks about protecting natural parquet faces difficult choice: what to prefer - traditional varnish, natural oil, or maybe wax? Let's consider the advantages of the last candidate.

What are the benefits of parquet wax?

Parquet wax is a rather dense composition, in appearance reminiscent of candied honey. The product is of organic origin and is made from natural wax or paraffin. Its environmentally friendly properties make it an ideal candidate for flooring in bedrooms and children's rooms.

Penetrating deep into wood fibers, the product gives them strength and water-repellent qualities. The wear resistance of wax is recognized as the standard among all existing coatings, and one cannot help but be glad that there is no need to scrape the parquet before each renewal session. Wax effectively protects the floor from minor scratches, and when it gets into the joints between the planks, it prevents the appearance of squeaking.

You can use the product in two ways. On the one hand, it copes with protective functions on its own, on the other hand, it perfectly consolidates the result achieved by its predecessor: wax is often applied directly on top of the oil to increase the floor’s resistance to aggressive cleaning “chemicals”. Such an event has a beneficial effect on appearance parquet, making the texture more expressive.

On a note: In addition to “pure” wax, you can increasingly find formulations in stores that combine the product with parquet oil. Universal remedy will save you from double hassle and guarantee reliable protection wood from various household troubles.

Why is parquet wax better than varnish?

Varnish for processing parquet it is rightfully considered the strongest and most durable coating. However, it is still far from ideal:

The varnish must be applied as thinly as possible, very long and carefully distributed over the floor surface. For beginners, the procedure will clearly not seem easy;
the varnish film prevents the natural “breathing” of the wood;
parquet treated with varnish should be vigilantly protected from scratches - furniture legs will have to be equipped with soft pads, and moving around the room in street shoes is out of the question;
it is very important to beware of caustic detergents, as well as any alcohol-based liquids;
the varnished surface does not tolerate excessively high or low temperatures;
in case of damage to the glossy coating, it is not always possible to get by with “little damage” - most likely, you will have to sand the entire floor, cleaning old layer, and then repeat the varnishing again.

On this background wax looks much more attractive:

Represents an environmentally friendly pure product. Unlike varnish, it is not harmful to health, which will be especially appreciated by allergy sufferers;
distributed quickly and without unnecessary hassle. Does not emit an unpleasant odor;
reliably seals the pores of wood, without at the same time impeding natural air circulation;
does not lead to gluing of parquet planks (which is often the “sin” of various varnishes);
the velvety waxed surface is pleasant to the touch, waterproof and retains heat well;
the oil-wax mixture perfectly emphasizes the chic of an aged board. The surface does not lose its matte shine even during intensive use;
local restoration is possible without completely updating the layer. The affected area is re-impregnated with the composition without any sanding, which saves not only effort, but also time;
the coating can be periodically refreshed - just wash off the old wax special means, and then distribute the new portion evenly. The parquet will get rid of accumulated dust particles and take on an even more solid appearance.

The only drawback of wax compositions is that they require attention much more often. If the parquet has been pre-treated with oil, it must be refreshed every two years, and in the case where wax is the only, and not the finishing, coating, then even once a week.

What is wax like?

Parquet wax can have different consistency, color and release form.

Solid The composition has a fairly dense structure; it must be diluted with water before use. The shade of the treated parquet will depend on the thickness of the final product.
Liquid wax does not require special preparation. The advantage of this product is that it allows you to cover even the most difficult to reach areas of the floor.
Wax in the form pastes gained the greatest popularity. For ease of application, you can use a spatula or a wide brush.

Based on their composition, wax-based impregnations are divided into 2 categories:

Polishes additionally contain water and polymers. Depending on the type, they give a matte or glossy shine; the parquet can be refreshed every month.
Hard wax oil characterized by a denser form and an accelerated rate of hardening. Impregnated parquet becomes matte, with a barely pronounced sheen. The coating layer is renewed approximately every six months; there is no need to prime the surface before applying impregnation.

On a note: Hard wax-based oil increases the elasticity of wood, prevents it from drying out, has a dirt-repellent property and increases the strength of the floor. Among the best manufacturers funds allocated brands “Osmo”, “Bona», « Lobasol" And "Saicos».

The shade of wax is also chosen arbitrarily:

Colorless the composition does not affect the color in any way tree species — color design the parquet remains the same as it was before treatment.
Brightening The wax is white or silver-gray. It is selected for light wood (such as maple, ash or birch) to further emphasize the nobility of the texture.
Dark wax impregnation adapts well to the natural colors of oak and cherry. This product is often used to treat exotic breeds.

To restore damaged parquet, special wax crayons– they retouch small scratches and chips. Soft or hard wax fills wood cavities well, while the composition is safely held in place even during wet cleaning. If you choose the right tone (if necessary, plastic pencils can be mixed with each other), the restored areas will be completely invisible.

How to make wax yourself

There is no need to purchase polishing wax from finished form- if you put in a little effort, high-quality composition It’s quite possible to cook at home.

Method 1 - popular

Grind and then melt the beeswax in a water bath. Measure out the turpentine in the same volume and begin adding it to the hot mass in parts (while stirring it continuously). Wait for the product to cool completely, stirring it occasionally.

Method 2 - hypoallergenic

Crumble 2 tablespoons beeswax. Pour in half a glass olive oil and send the mixture to melt - you can put it in the microwave, or you can water bath. If desired, vegetable fragrances and aromatic oils are added to the composition; To bring the mass to a suitable consistency, it is allowed to introduce additional portions of the main components.

This composition is absolutely harmless - the recipe is ideal for treating the floor in a children's room. Ready mix stored for a year (provided it is in glass or metal container), so you can safely prepare it for future use.

How to wax parquet

Parquet wax dries much faster than varnish - the process usually takes 40 minutes. It takes about 12 hours to completely harden, but the coating must be protected from all kinds of stress for another 2-3 days.

Before starting the procedure, you need to make sure that there are no cracks on the parquet - if necessary, they are covered with a special grout. Remains of varnish or other polishing are removed using solvents, rinsing off with plenty of warm water. Cleaned parquet should be thoroughly sanded and dust free; if desired, for light tinting, the floor is covered with stain.

If you plan to apply wax over oil, make sure they are compatible with each other beforehand. This will be indicated by the same type of solvent in the composition, or both products should not contain this component at all. In the case where the solvent is used only in wax, there is a high probability of destroying the structure of the oil coating.

The product must be distributed very thinly, otherwise the floor will be sticky and vulnerable to mechanical damage. To rub in thick wax, use a wide spatula - either plastic or of stainless steel with smoothed edges.

On a note: Remember that a sponge is absolutely not suitable for waxing parquet: the composition forms foam, applies unevenly and, moreover, looks dull.

It is recommended to polish the hardened coating well - mechanically, that is grinder with a polishing attachment, or manually, carefully rubbing with a cotton cloth (no lint should remain on the surface). This step can be skipped; it is only needed to make the parquet more shiny.

Then the impregnation is repeated again. The second layer of wax will have the same thickness as the first, allowing at least 8 hours to dry. The optimal drying mode assumes a temperature of +18 to 22 degrees and air humidity of 60 percent. After a few hours the floor is polished again.

Hot impregnation

Along with the above " cold"the way they practice" hot» impregnation. This procedure requires special equipment - polishing machine and temperature drop:

The first thing you need to do is heat the wax - bring it to 80 degrees by placing it in a water bath. The hot composition will be absorbed instantly, without releasing excess.
Now you need to increase the temperature of the parquet. Treat the surface with a thermal pad to improve the adhesion of the wax to the wood.
Spread a thin layer of product using a spatula.
At the end of 2 hours, the composition can be reapplied. Rub in the wax mixture using a hot pad.
After another three hours, using the same mechanism, a thorough polishing is carried out. The wax will completely harden after a couple of weeks.

On a note: do not rush to lay the carpet on the treated parquet: at least a month must pass from the completion of the work.

During the first ten days, caring for treated floors should be limited to dry cleaning only - it will be quite neat to collect dust. During further use, the parquet is washed with a damp cloth once every 7-15 days. Of the cleaning “chemistry” it is permissible to use only a special concentrate ( for example, brands "Coswick», « Adesiv" or "OSMO» ), and even then no more than once every 2-3 months.

Experts advise not to experiment with the use different types wax to renew the treated surface. It is much more reasonable to select a permanent “favorite” and not change it until the next polishing, since a floor that combines several different means, will probably acquire an uneven color.