"Northern cypress" is no worse than the southern one...
A common name for our common juniper Northern cypress is no coincidence, since it is not only very similar in appearance to southern cypress, but also belongs to the cypress family. The natural beauty and severity of the forms of this evergreen shrub makes it possible today to increasingly create garden plots with the help of his diverse compositions are beautiful and expressive.
Unfortunately, many summer residents and gardeners encounter considerable difficulties when growing juniper, caused both by the unreliability of the recommendations available in the press and by obvious errors in agricultural technology. Based on my experience and the experience of owners of other plots where this crop is successfully grown, I want to talk about the most common mistakes beginners make in their attempts to plant juniper in their garden.
Analyzing all the recommendations available in the press, they can be divided into three groups. One group of authors does not recommend growing juniper in plots at all; the other allows their cultivation, but only if the cuttings are purchased from traders; the third group recommends buying ready-made seedlings in pots.
The first of the recommendations, which explains the impossibility of cultivation by the limited area of plots and the toxicity of the plant, is clearly not confirmed by practice, since juniper requires very little space and is not afraid of shade, and high toxicity refers not to ordinary, but to Cossack juniper .
As for the second recommendation, I know from experience that the process of rooting cuttings is long and not always reliable. In the third case, the recommendations are not always feasible due to the high cost of seedlings in pots; not all gardeners can afford them. Moreover, they are not always available. I believe, that in the best possible way is skillful transplanting juniper into the garden from the forest, where it is possible to choose the most suitable tree, and at the right time.
Another very important recommendation available in the press is not confirmed in practice - about autumn planting juniper when gardening work mostly completed. Unfortunately, as the experience of, for example, my neighbor in the area shows, the seedling does not have time to take root well in the pre-winter period and acquires a brownish-rusty color. The same phenomenon was observed in other areas.
The best time to transplant juniper from the forest to the garden, which excludes negative phenomena, in my opinion, is early spring, when the snow has not yet completely melted and the ground has only slightly thawed. The practice of transplanting juniper from the forest to the garden also indicates that in order to achieve a positive result, it is important to ensure that several more specific requirements of agricultural technology are met.
- At the place where you will take the seedling for transplantation, you should immediately mark it on one of the branches using a colored ribbon or twine sunny side trees. This is necessary in order to plant the dug up seedling in the same orientation in the garden.
- You need to dig up the tree with the biggest lump soil and fibrous roots located at the depth of the spade bayonet and within the boundaries of the branches along the perimeter. If the lump is too heavy to lift, a slightly smaller perimeter is possible, but the lump should be lightened by reducing the depth, and not horizontally.
- In order not to shake the lump of mother earth and not dry out the fibrous roots, the dug up tree must be placed on plastic film or thick paper and, having wrapped the lump, tie the edges with twine to the trunk.
- To plant juniper, you should choose a place in the garden where it would be in the shade or partial shade and not adjacent to apple trees, since it is an intermediate host of a common apple tree disease - rust.
- Juniper must be planted either in holes when it is placed in separate clumps on the lawn, or in trenches when placed in alleys. It is not recommended to place juniper near the house and other buildings so that the snow sliding from the roofs in winter does not damage its crown.
- The depth of the planting hole or trench should be no greater than the thickness of the planted ball, since in this case the root collar of the tree will be buried, which should not be allowed.
- The holes or trenches must be filled with a mixture before planting juniper garden soil, river sand and peat or compost, and the roots should be well spread over the surface, covered with 5-10 cm of soil and mulched with pine litter, humus, or wet pine sawdust.
- From the remaining soil from digging holes or trenches, you should create an earthen roll along the edge, then pour about two buckets of water into the bowl of the tree-trunk circle, and pour a bucket with a solution of one heteroauxin tablet in water around the perimeter of the bowl.
The survival rate of a juniper tree largely depends on its subsequent care. In this case, it is very important for the first six months, while the fibrous root system of the roots is being restored, to water the tree weekly with at least two buckets of water, and also to weed out weeds in the tree trunk, which noticeably inhibit the weakened tree and attract various pests to it. In the case when the tree is poorly covered with shade, on hot summer days it is advisable to lightly spray its crown when watering, and, if necessary, even cover it with burlap or some loose fabric.
If you need to limit the growth of the tree, it should be cut, but only in early May, before new tender needles begin to grow. We must also not forget about the annual expansion of the juniper tree trunk. To do this, it is recommended to dig a ditch around the crown with a spade, put leaf litter, coniferous litter and weeds in it, sprinkle everything with lime and create a new roller of the tree-trunk bowl over this place every year.
If you can fulfill all the requirements for transplanting juniper from the forest to the garden, which were discussed above, then your site is already at next year will be transformed. It will attract attention with evergreen juniper needles. This plant usually begins to bloom in the second half of May, forming male and female cones, and after pollination of the latter, cone berries are formed, which contain up to 5% of essential oils used in the treatment of wounds, burns, and frostbite.
Juniper branches and needles are used as a disinfectant when processing various containers and for preparing smoked meats. It is especially valuable that juniper produces phytoncides (6 times more than other conifers), under the influence of which putrefactive fungi and bacteria, influenza viruses and even tuberculosis bacilli die in the garden. My experience and the experience of my neighbors in growing junipers convincingly demonstrates that the northern cypress, transplanted from the forest to the garden, like its southern brother, gives the site not only beauty, but also brings sanitary, hygienic and therapeutic benefits to it.
Anatoly Veselov, gardener
Many people would like to see evergreens and beautiful trees- junipers. Despite their decorative nature, you won’t have to take much care of them. The real difficulty represents the moment of landing or transfer. In this article we will tell you when to replant juniper and describe how to carry out this procedure.
Junipers are conifers, the genus of which includes about 75 species and a large number decorative varieties, which were derived from them. Junipers are very diverse: from tall trees, similar to cypress trees to spreading, creeping shrubs.
In general, these plants, once established, are not picky. They love bright sun (except Chinese juniper), but grow well in light shade; most species are drought-resistant and not demanding on soil nutrition. Frost resistance different varieties and species vary greatly. This must be taken into account when planting this tree in your region. The plant lives for quite a long time - up to 600 years.
All junipers, in addition to their advantages - originality, beauty, ease of care - have one common disadvantage: they, like all coniferous plants, do not like replanting, and take a long time and hard to take root in a new place. If a transplant is unavoidable, then it must be done correctly.
It is best to replant juniper at a young age, up to 3 years. The growth of such a plant does not exceed 1 m.
Transplanting an adult plant is fraught with many difficulties. Their root system is well developed, so it can easily be damaged when digging. Plus, in a new place it will be difficult for the plant to adapt and take root. If the juniper cannot be left in its place, then you need to initial stages preparation:
- A year before the proposed transplant, you need to dig a circle around the tree at a distance of 40 cm from the trunk with a shovel (the depth of the slot should be 40-50 cm). This stimulates the development of new roots in a confined space.
- Choose another place, and it should be as similar as possible to the usual growing conditions. If the new location is not suitable for the plant, the juniper will become dull and the number of green needles will decrease significantly.
- Polarity must be observed. Juniper should be planted in the same position relative to the poles in which it grew before transplanting.
Transplant timing
Many people are interested in when to replant juniper so as not to seriously injure it. Professional gardeners claim that replanting can be done at any time of the year, but it is still better to do it in the fall. During this period it remains high humidity, which promotes good survival rate and increases the percentage of successful transplants of coniferous plants.
It is a fairly common belief that juniper can be replanted in the spring. However, at this time the air humidity is not as high as in autumn. Under such conditions, juniper needles easily give up liquid, and the root system, which is placed in new conditions, is not always able to produce moisture in the required quantity. As a result, the plant may wither and die from simple dehydration. If you still decide to replant in the spring, then it is better to do this in late April - early May.
During summer transplantation, juniper loses even more moisture, so the procedure rarely ends successfully. We strongly do not recommend replanting the plant in summer.
So, we figured out that it is best to replant juniper in the fall. The ideal time for this is September.
How to transplant juniper correctly
Juniper transplantation must be carried out according to all the rules. The instructions are:
Care after transplant
Juniper is quite hardy and tolerates heat, cold and severe drought. It does not require special care. But the transplanted juniper will have to be looked after a little.
In the first year after transplantation, especially in dry times, the soil under the seedling must be moistened at least once a week. The root system, which is not yet strong enough in the new place, will not be able to take water from dry soil. After a year, the tree may not need to be watered at all.
In addition to watering at the root, tree needles can be sprayed with water. This procedure will increase the density of the needles and make their color more saturated.
After transplanting juniper in the fall, it needs to be fed in early spring. This will enhance the growth of the seedling and improve its external qualities. Any polymineral complex is suitable for feeding. For example, nitroammophoska. Before applying fertilizer, be sure to include instructions for use. It is important not to “overdo it” with fertilizer, as junipers do not like this.
After transplantation, plants need to be covered before winter cold. This must be done for at least 4 seasons. First, the branches need to be carefully tied to the trunk, created around the juniper wooden frame and pull the covering material on top. The protection must be removed with the arrival of spring, but this must be done gradually so that the plant can adapt to open air conditions.
Juniper is a stunning plant. It will not only give the garden uniqueness and beauty, but will also permeate the air essential oils, which is especially important for the health of people living nearby. If you approach transplantation and further care correctly, then everything will end well for the seedling, and it will take root in its new place without any problems. Do not forget that experienced gardeners It is recommended to replant juniper only in the fall. This is the most best time to carry out this procedure.
Juniper – perennial with soft beautiful needles, which is valued not only for its decorative appearance, but also medicinal qualities.
Variety of species allows you to choose the most suitable one for each gardener. Unpretentiousness to living conditions adds advantages to the desire to grow one of ancient plants cypress family.
To obtain beautiful healthy plant , it must be planted by selecting right place, soil and planting time.
Planting in open ground
Planting juniper in open ground requires compliance with all the nuances - the right choice time and place of planting, soil and planting material.
Boarding time
The most best disembarkation time juniper in open ground - early spring.
Moreover, there is no need to wait for warm weather; the plant can be planted immediately after the snow melts.
At a later date spring period You can also plant young animals, but there is danger burning of pine needles.
When planting juniper V autumn period, there is a possibility that the plant will not have time to take root and acclimatize.
A plant purchased with a closed root system can be planted Anytime, even in the hot summer months. True, shading from the sun's rays during the daytime is required.
Selecting a location
Juniper grows well only in open sunny places. Access to sunlight it should be during the whole day. Some shading is allowed only when growing common juniper, but also to a small extent.
From lighting intensity depends on the decorativeness of plants, the density of branches and needles. A juniper growing in the shade will have few branches, they will be random, forming a shapeless loose mass. Variegated needles will lose their original color.
Soil for planting
Soil reaction depends on the type of plant. Alkaline is necessary for common, Central Asian and Cossack juniper. To obtain such a reaction, dolomite flour or slaked lime is added to the soil.
Other species prefer acid reaction. This is achieved by adding peat and sand to the soil, mulching using wood shavings and peat.
Siberian juniper requires sandy and sandy loam soil, Virginia requires clay soil, into which it is advisable to add compost.
Into the landing hole drainage needs to be added broken bricks, large pebbles and sand. The thickness of the drainage layer is about 15-25 cm.
Planting material
The best thing plant young plants growing in containers up to 5 liters. They are easier to plant and take root. Especially if the root system is closed(i.e. the plant is placed in the ground along with a lump of earth).
For landing large plants Some experience and skill is required. Such seedlings are grown in the ground; before sale, they are dug up, wrapped in burlap or placed in special containers and plastic bags.
Planting mature plants Not recommended at all. This is explained by the peculiarity of the root system, which is pivotal and goes deep into the soil. It is almost impossible to dig up a specimen without damaging the main root. This will lead to almost inevitable death of the plant.
Try to plant adult juniper can only be grown in winter, with a frozen soil coma. It has been noticed that the closer to spring the planting is done, the greater the likelihood of plant survival.
Before planting specimens in a hole, they are prepared generously wetting the clod of earth 2 hours before landing.
How to plant juniper correctly?
For landing you need to dig a hole. Its dimensions depend on the size of the seedling. For young junipers, a hole is made one meter square. They dig about half a meter deep. In any case, the hole is made in 2-3 times larger than a soil clod.
The bottom of the pit is lined drainage layer. The remaining space is filled with cultivated soil suitable for each type of juniper. The plant is placed in a hole, being careful not to damage the soil ball and roots. In young seedlings, the root collar should be located at the very surface of the soil; in adult plants, it should rise to 6-12 cm.
After planting, the plant is watered with plenty of water. Tree trunk circle mulched various materials– peat, pine bark, wood chips, sawdust, crushed cones, pine nut shells. The layer thickness should be 5-10 cm.
If several specimens are planted at once, you should follow correct distance between them. U small species it should be at least half a meter. In tall and spreading ones - from 1.5 to 2.5 m.
Planting juniper from the forest
If the rules are followed, such a landing is quite possible. In some cases, even more reliable, since you choose planting material .
Need to replant small young plants that still have a small root system. When you find such a tree, mark the sunny side before digging it up. At home, plant on the same side.
The seedling is dug up together with a lump of soil, immediately placing it in polyethylene film or burlap, wrap it tightly and tie it.
Plant in the garden in the same way as purchased material.
Planting bush species
You can plant such a juniper before it grows in breadth and depth. The root system of mature shrubs is strongly intertwined and grows downwards, deep underground. That's why only planted young specimens under two years of age.
Growing juniper from seeds
Not all types and varieties of plants can be grow from seeds. Ornamental hybrid plants reproduce only by cuttings. Pollination occurs with the wind, so very few full-fledged seeds from which it is possible to grow juniper ripen.
Planting material can be collected from plants two years old, during the period of darkening of berries, but before this process is completed. Seeds from completely dark fruits “go” to rest and go into “hibernation”, so they take a very long time to germinate.
After collecting the seeds you need stratify. To do this, take a box and fill it with a moist substrate of peat, sand, moss, into which the seeds are placed. Cover the top with another layer of filler.
For the winter, these boxes are taken outside and remain under the snow for the entire cold season. up to 150 days. This is how cold stratification is carried out naturally. It is needed to speed up germination. Seeds that have not undergone this procedure will be able to sprout only in a year after sowing into the ground.
In May, stratified planting material is removed from the substrate and planted in prepared beds. Further care is no different from other plants. Watering, timely weeding, loosening row spacing. Ready seedlings are planted in permanent places.
Reproduction by cuttings
In this manner can be propagated absolutely all types of plants. Low-growing and common juniper take root most easily.
In the spring, cut off young annual branches from a tree you like, always with a piece of the main plant. The length of the cutting is about a decimeter. Material clear the needles and place for a day in a solution that stimulates root formation. After the expiration date, the cuttings are placed in a light substrate (sand, peat or a mixture of both). It is moistened, covered with film or trimmed plastic bottles and leave to take root in a shaded place.
Periodically, the “greenhouse” needs to be opened for ventilation and ensure that the substrate does not dry out. In a favorable situation in 30-50 days roots will appear.
After successful root formation, the cuttings are planted in open ground, having previously prepared the beds. To prevent young plants from freezing, they are covered with spruce or pine branches for the winter.
On permanent place transplanted after 2-3 years.
Rules of care
Unpretentious and unpretentious juniper does not require much attention. However, by following some rules, you will preserve the beautiful appearance of the plant and ensure long life.
Watering and feeding
Plant able to withstand without watering for a long period. However, in hot, dry summers it is recommended to water it at least once a month.
Also periodically arrange a shower using a spray bottle or other sprayers. The procedure is carried out every week in the early morning or evening, when the sun is not as active as during the day.
In spring, apply to the soil under the plant nitroammophos based on 45 g per square meter. During the summer you can fertilize juniper with organic or mineral fertilizers no more than once a month. Such fertilizing is carried out if the tree grows slower than expected.
Transfer
It is carried out only in case of emergency, because there is no guarantee that the juniper will take root in the new place.
Replanting juniper absolutely doesn't like!
If you still decide, prepare optimal soil. It is best to mix coniferous soil, peat, sand in equal parts. After placing in a new location, water the tree thoroughly.
Pruning and care in winter
The plant itself is perfect does not require pruning. All that is necessary is to remove dry branches at any time. However, when forming a beautiful crown, you can cut off excess branches using a sharpened tool.
You cannot cut many branches at once - a tree might get sick.
Young plants cover in the first couple of years lutrasil or other similar material. Older plants with a spreading crown are tied with rope or twine to prevent branches from breaking due to snow. You can also periodically shake off the snow from the tree.
Juniper care in spring
When the sun becomes active and the snow slowly melts, a very dangerous period begins for all types of junipers. They may die, if you don't take action.
The sun can literally burn the pine needles, previously under the snow or simply unaccustomed to the burning rays. To prevent this, it is necessary to shade the plants using burlap, thin cloth or other covering material.
After the snow melts, the covering material is removed, the tree trunk circle is cleared of fallen leaves and other organic debris. The mulch layer is removed, as it can lead to rotting of the roots. The soil is dug up or loosened. When the soil dries out and the threat of rotting goes away, add a fresh layer of mulch.
Diseases
Juniper diseases:
- Rust. The needles become dirty orange and then dry out. The reason is that a lot of salts are concentrated in the soil. This can happen if animals choose a tree as a toilet.
- If the needles first turn yellow, then dies, which means the plant suffers from excess moisture. This occurs due to heavy rains or floods, waterlogging along natural reasons, level up groundwater. Lack of moisture in the ground and air manifests itself with the same symptoms.
- Red growths on the trunk and branches. In dry weather they are no more than 0.5 cm, after rain they increase 3 times. The tree was attacked by rust fungi. To get rid of the scourge, it is recommended to promptly remove the affected branches and shoots. Increase the resistance of juniper using immunostimulants and microfertilizers.
- Schutte mushroom attack. At the beginning of the season, last year's needles turn orange or brown, but do not fall off. Subsequently, small black growths appear on it round shape. The fungus attacks weakened plants in the shade. It especially loves humidity and is not afraid of cold weather. Damaged branches must be immediately cut off and burned, and the juniper should be sprayed with sulfur and copper preparations.
- Drying of branches and bark caused by various fungi. Because of them, growths form on the tree in the form of red warts and longitudinal wood ulcers. To prevent diseases, copper preparations are used, which are used to treat plants in spring and autumn. All open scratches and cuts are disinfected with copper sulfate.
Pests
Juniper is affected by the following pests:
Growing trees in the country is not particularly difficult, with the exception of lack of space for small areas. Still, juniper requires enough large area– up to 2 m in diameter.
Cossack juniper - poisonous tree, therefore it is undesirable for summer cottage.
Caring for juniper in the garden
Caring for it is no different from growing conditions in other places, but the plant brings considerable benefits. By releasing a large amount of phytoncides, it protects surrounding trees from invasion of pests and diseases.
Many people notice an improvement in the quality of fruits after planting juniper trees.
Juniper - home care
You can grow tree-style juniper at home. The most suitable types are:
- Daursky;
- Virginia;
- Cossack;
- Recumbent;
- Scaly;
- Solid.
To care for an indoor tree, the same recommendations are used as for an outdoor one. The place should be sunny, watering should be moderate, periodically spraying required from a spray bottle.
Bottom of the landing tank filled with a drainage layer, then with soil suitable for your type of juniper. In the warm season, it is advisable to take the plant out into the fresh air.
Domestic trees for the winter needs to be cleaned V unheated room with a temperature of no more than 10º. Keep it in the light. In cold conditions, watering is rarely required.
The transplant is carried out only if necessary in spring or November. At the same time, cut off excess branches. To form a bonsai, the branches are wrapped for the correct direction from October to April. Pinching can be done in the summer - from May to August.
Watch the video for tips from professionals on caring for juniper:
If a gardener has a desire to plant juniper on his site or move his own plant to another place, then he will need to take into account several very important points. The common juniper (Juniperus communis) is very capricious when transplanted. Creeping plants - the highly poisonous Cossack Juniper (Juniperus sabina) and Horizontal Juniper (Juniperus horizontalis) - are more unpretentious. But in all cases, it is better to replant short young specimens, because adult plants take root very difficult: when they are dug up, the root system is always seriously injured.
Large juniper bushes or trees planted in the fall remain green all winter, but may dry out completely in the spring. This is due to the fact that in cold weather the respiratory stomata of plants are closed and moisture will not evaporate through them. In the spring, when the air warms up, the stomata begin to open, the moisture evaporates, and the root system does not yet provide the plant with enough nutrients. If there was a dry autumn when the large juniper was transplanted, then the plant may die in the fall.
Junipers actively grow roots twice a year: in early spring(in March - April) and in summer (in June - July). Summer transplantation, of course, is irrational; It is better to replant plants in early spring, as soon as the snow melts, then they will begin to take root well. But 6 - 12 months before planting, the bush chosen in the forest needs to be dug deep around the perimeter of the crown, cutting the roots vertically. In the time remaining before transplantation, the seedling will form a compact root system, this will help reduce the risk of his death.
It is best to replant a small juniper or buy a specimen growing in a container from a nursery. The purchase costs are quite justified, because wild seedlings take root much more difficult compared to varietal plants, and they don’t grow everywhere. But when purchasing, you should inquire about the winter hardiness of the variety to which the selected specimen belongs.
You need to determine in advance the place where the plant will be planted. You can plant juniper in clumps (one to three at a time) or in a trench to create an alley. Junipers should not grow close to apple trees (to avoid infection with common diseases), near a barn or house, so that they are not broken by falling snow. They need sunlight, and in the shade they quickly lose their decorative effect. An exception to this rule is Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), which normally tolerates partial shade.
Juniper is not too demanding on soil fertility, but it will have difficulty taking root on heavy clay or loamy soils. The depth of the planting hole depends on the size of the root system of the seedling and the size of the earthen ball. The roots of the seedling will feel good in loose soil. Therefore, the width of the landing pit should be 2 times larger diameter crowns of the transplanted plant so that the roots can be covered with soft soil. When digging a hole upper layer soil is mixed with peat, sand and forest litter. This mixture is poured into the bottom of the hole and watered well. The bottom of the pit is loosened to the level of a bayonet, and if planting is done in heavy soil with a high groundwater table, then drainage is made to a depth of 15–20 cm to drain it.
The plant chosen for transplantation should not have any damage or visible traces of fungal diseases. A ribbon is tied to one of its northern branches to maintain the north-south orientation when planting. The seedling is dug deep to preserve as many roots as possible. The root system with a ball of earth is immediately placed on cellophane and treated with a root formation stimulator. For transportation, the root system is packaged and tied well. If your own seedling is transplanted, then planting is carried out immediately.
A seedling purchased in a container is carefully dumped out of the container. The roots of any juniper seedlings are watered with a root formation stimulator and immediately placed in the planting hole at the same depth at which they were in the soil. The roots are covered with a mixture of fertile soil, sand, peat and forest litter, and carefully trampled down without deepening the root collar. Make a border around the perimeter of the planting hole and fill the plant with two buckets of water. The tree trunk circle is generously covered with humus or forest litter from under the junipers. Along the edges of the hole, 3 pegs are driven in so that their tops are directed away from the seedling, and the plant is tied to them.
The juniper crown is treated with chemical disinfectants immediately after transplantation and this is repeated until the seedling takes root. Water the seedling twice a week, in a bucket, into a groove around the perimeter of the root system so that water does not get on the trunk and needles, otherwise fungus may appear. The crown is sprayed with Epin as a fertilizer. Weeds are regularly pulled out, and in hot weather the crowns are sprayed with water during watering and covered from the sun with burlap or Agril. In spring, nitroammophos is applied under the plant - 30 - 40 g/sq.m. meter. If these conditions are met, the seedling will take root and begin to bear fruit 5 years after transplantation.
This juniper is considered the most popular view. Grows at high altitudes, remains always green, reaches large sizes. Flowering begins in mid-spring, and the seeds are fully ripened in October. The plant is quite often used for decorative purposes. But remember that juniper is considered poisonous, as it contains toxic compounds, including essential oils. Today we will figure out how the transplant is performed Cossack juniper
in the fall.
It is best to plant bushes at intervals of one meter. The soil can be of any composition, the main condition is the presence of high-quality drainage. Juniper survives hot weather well, even if you do not provide shade for it. But it loves moisture, don’t forget to water it generously. Transplanting bushes to another area requires some experience. As a rule, bushes grown in a nursery are sold together with a lump of earth. They even wrap it in burlap to better preserve it.
They begin to prepare the Cossack juniper bush for the replanting process in the spring. For this bayonet shovel The soil is cut around the required bush. In this case, the distance from the stem should be about forty centimeters. This will create conditions for the formation of new young roots in the outlined space. A juniper plant prepared in this way can be moved to a new location in the fall or wait until next spring.
Planting seedlings in autumn
They are produced from seeds in separate pots. Growth should be carried out until there is confidence in their independence. Transplantation into open ground must be carried out with the onset of warm summer days.
For planting cuttings, material of at least five centimeters in length is selected. It should be kept in a cool place and planted in the fall. It is best to prepare cuttings from the apical sections of the shoots. Try to choose straight sections of shoots. For creeping bushes, cuttings are prepared from lateral shoots.
It should be noted that cuttings are not able to remain without required quantity water. And if you need to move them to another place, use a plastic bag moistened with water. It is very important that a “heel” in the form of a piece of old bark remains on the cutting material. Without this, the rooting of the cuttings will not occur, no matter how hard you try.
Caring for juniper after transplantation
Replanting juniper and subsequent care is not difficult at all. The main condition is to water abundantly in dry weather, spray the crowns, and create protection from direct sunlight on the plant. Young plants must be supported with nutrients during the growth period, and shelters must be provided for them before the winter season.
The soil should be sufficiently acidic; lime or lime can be added to it before planting. remember, that large quantity Juniper does not like fertilizers, so you can limit yourself to forty grams of nitroammophoska for each square meter of land. After watering or removing weeds, it is recommended to loosen the soil to a shallow depth and sprinkle about five centimeters with wood chips or peat.
The transplanted plants can later be pruned to give the bushes the necessary shape. But at the same time, it is necessary to remove only damaged branches so as not to destroy the entire plant. It is best to do this no more than twice a year. The best time for pruning is in spring and autumn, when temperature regime not lower than four to five degrees Celsius.
After following all the tips, you can decorate the area with juniper bushes without difficulty.