Trimming berry bushes in autumn

The cut cannot be left

Pruning bushes in autumn- the most important agrotechnical event in autumn garden, in addition, aboutpruning berry bushes in autumn- one of the most important gardening techniques.

Obtaining high and sustainable yields of berry bushes largely depends on systematic pruning of the bushes. The main objectives of pruning are to form bushes, improve fruiting and improve lighting conditions for all parts of the bush. It is known that the bush can grow without pruning, but the result will be much worse, since it forms more slowly and the berries become smaller.

Pruning bushes (pruning berry bushes in the fall) is a rather labor-intensive operation, and if there are a lot of bushes (more than 10), then pruning will take more than one day. Bushes are pruned as in early spring, before the buds open, and in the fall, after the leaves fall.

The main problem for a gardener when pruning shrubs on his own garden plot- fear of cutting off excess, which means getting a smaller harvest. The effect of such “trimming to a minimum” will be corresponding- minimal. In order for pruning to give results, you need to “cut without sparing.”

Last spring I had to cut down a bush at the root black currant, because it was infested with a bud mite, produced small berries, and it was barely possible to pick a handful of berries from the entire bush. It was, of course, a pity to cut the bush at the root. But over the summer, at least eight new strong shoots more than a meter high have grown, the bush has become lush, strong, renewed, and this summer I expect a corresponding harvest from it.

The most important part of shrubs- underground, therefore, no matter how many branches are cut, new shoots will quickly appear from dormant buds on the root collar of the bush.

According to N.P. Krenke, who formulated the theory of cyclic aging and rejuvenation of plants, new plant organs slow down the rate of aging of the entire plant. At the same time, aging of the plant is inevitable, but thanks to periodic rejuvenation, the life of the plant can be significantly extended.

It is very important to cut out old branches at soil level, without leaving stumps, as pests can settle in them. All cut branches are burned because they can be sources of pests and diseases.

To trim branches you will need pruning shears, and for larger and thicker branches- saw. It is better to treat large cuts with garden varnish.

It is difficult to give precise recommendations for pruning a bush, because each bush requires individual approach. In addition, different berry bushes have their own specific pruning requirements. Therefore, it is very important when starting pruning to clearly understand what needs to be cut and why, and what to leave.

Raspberries

Pruning raspberries is simple and involves biological feature. As you know, raspberries have biennial shoots. In the first year these shoots grow, in the second they bear fruit and die. As a rule, shoots that bear fruit in the second year are cut out near the ground or even in the ground. At the same time, all excess and weak shoots are removed from the bush. This cutting can be done in the spring, but it is more favorable for shrubs- in the fall.

After planting raspberries in the second year, 2-3 shoots are left on the bushes for fruiting. In subsequent years, the number of shoots is increased and the number of shoots in adult bushes is increased to 10-12, and the rest are cut out.

In early spring, the shoots left in the bush in the fall are slightly shortened. The cut is made not in an arbitrary location of the shoot, but directly above the bud. Raspberry shoots bear fruit best in the middle part, so pinch off the tops. Shoots with pinched tops develop lateral branches, which will result in stronger fruiting and better and larger berries.

In particularly favorable growing conditions, annual shoots reach a height of 2.8-3 m. In this case, after shortening, they should have a length of 2.2-2.5 m. Under less favorable cultivation conditions, the length of the shoots is 1.2-1.5 m Such shoots are shortened by cutting off the top 10-15 cm long.

Feature remontant raspberries There is an annual development cycle of the above-ground part, therefore in the fall or in some cases in the spring the above-ground part is cut down to ground level.

As the raspberry bush ages, the formation of new shoots gradually decreases. Then there comes a moment when very few offspring are produced and the yield decreases sharply. It has been established that the productivity of old raspberry bushes can be restored by removing the old rhizome. Thus, the relationship between the above-ground and root systems of the plant is changed, resulting in increased growth.

Anti-aging pruning should be accompanied by the introduction of increased doses of organic and mineral fertilizers. Rejuvenation of raspberry bushes should be carried out every 5-6 years. This allows you to significantly extend the age of the raspberry plantation.

Black currant

The blackcurrant bush is formed gradually over 4-5 years. A fully formed and fruit-bearing blackcurrant bush should have 3-4 branches at the age of 1-2-3-4-5 years. In total, the bush will have 15-20 branches of different ages.

The age of a branch is determined by the number of annual growths. To do this, external ones are found on the branches. tree rings and calculate the age of the branch from top to bottom.

The skeletal branches of black currant bear fruit well for 4-6 years, then the degree of fruiting decreases, so the old branches are cut out completely at the age of 5-6 years at the base of the bushes.

Trimming is done as follows. Of the young annual shoots, 6-8 of the strongest and correctly located shoots are left, and the rest are removed. Then pruned annually:

1) all stems over 4-5 years old (these stems are easy to distinguish from young ones by their almost black color);

2) all drooping stems lying on the ground;

3) stems going inside the bush and strongly intersecting;

4) all extra shoots coming from the root collar, as well as shoots with tops frozen over the winter;

5) all dry and diseased stems.

The branch should also be removed if the growth of annual growth is weakened (less than 15 cm).

The drying tops of aging shoots are cut off to some strong lateral branch in order to enhance the growth of the remaining part of the branch.

Young shoots left for replacement are shortened. by one third, to enhance branching.

It is necessary to ensure that branches of all ages remain on the bush, since the best fruiting usually occurs on branches 2-3 years old.

Red and white currant

The technique for pruning red and white currants is somewhat different, since the fruiting nature of these crops is specific. A large number of fruit buds are laid in upper parts shoots, which then turn into bouquet branches, crowdedly located near the boundaries of annual growth. They are more durable than black currants,- live and bear fruit for up to 4 years.

Due to these characteristics of fruiting in currants, it is impossible to shorten annual basal and annual lateral shoots located in the upper parts of perennial branches.

Red and white currants produce their main crop on 2-5 year old branches. When forming a bush, 3-4 of the strongest annual shoots are left annually. All diseased, weak shoots that thicken the middle of the bush are cut out.

The skeletal branches of red and white currants bear fruit for 6-8 years. Branches that have not reached this age are removed only when they do not form growth and do not bear fruit, or to cause intensive growth of basal shoots. All old, non-fruiting branches are cut out completely at the very base of the bush.

Full formation of fruit-bearing red and white currant bushes ends at 5-8 years. A formed fruit-bearing bush of red and white currants should have 2-3 branches each of different ages, and in total it is recommended to have 10-12 well-developed branches of different ages. It is necessary to ensure that the composition of the branches of different ages is maintained, otherwise the time will come when all the old ones will die at the same time and the bush will not be able to quickly recover.

Gooseberry

Bush formation and rejuvenation of gooseberries is done in almost the same way as currants. A fruit-bearing, formed bush should have 15-20 branches in approximately the same number by age group.

In the year of planting, the bush is pruned, leaving 2-3 buds on the shoot. By the end of the first year, the bush will have 5-6 or more annual shoots. In the spring, in the second year of planting, last year's shoots are shortened by one quarter to one third of their length.

Gooseberries bear fruit on shortened shoots 2-3 years old, located on last year's growths. Pruning fruiting branches 2-3 years old is not practiced.

Gooseberries also bear fruit on older branches, 4-7 years old, so when pruning, only branches older than 7 years old are removed. Annual gooseberry shoots cannot be shortened, as this reduces the yield.

Every year, dry, excess and shading shoots are cut out from gooseberry bushes, then old, non-fruit-bearing branches covered with lichens and weaker fruit-bearing ones. All shoots older than 7-8 years are cut out. If such annual cutting is not carried out, the bush will become completely barren. In addition, a neglected bush often gets sick powdery mildew and other diseases.

When pruning gooseberries, you will need thick gloves and clothing that you won’t mind getting torn by the thorns.

Neglected berry bushes and pruning berry bushes in autumn

Bushes left for a long time without pruning become very thick, form weak growth and are characterized by a high percentage of old branches. There are very few young strong branches in them.

To restore growth, severe thinning is necessary. Remove all dry, diseased and broken branches. Special attention You should pay attention to cutting out the outer hanging branches and the inner branches that thicken the bush. Annual branches are also removed, leaving only 3-4 to replace the old main branches.

If the bush does not have a sufficient number of young strong branches, it is necessary to take measures to cause the appearance of basal shoots. To do this, cut out 2-3 old branches at the base.

The main purpose of pruning neglected bushes- cause the formation of new strong growths to gradually replace all old branches. Cutting out all the old branches in one year is impractical. They should be replaced within 2-3 years.

In addition, neglected bushes- These are sources of diseases and pests, especially dangerous if such bushes are located near new plantings. Pruning berry bushes in the fall and burning the branches will significantly reduce the risk of infection.

By combining correct and timely pruning of berry bushes in the fall with careful soil care, you can obtain stable and high yields for many years.

S. Zalmanova

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With the onset of autumn, life in the garden does not freeze, but begins to slowly fade away, and until the snow falls, gardeners have a lot of work: after harvesting, they need to prepare the plants for wintering and for the beginning of the next growing season, since it is in the fall that the success of next year’s harvest is laid. The easier the garden endures winter, the more grateful it will respond to your care for it. We have already written about how to prepare your garden for winter. In this article we will talk about autumn pruning of fruit bushes on the eve of winter.

Pruning fruit bushes

Berry bushes form the basis of the garden and are a source of vitamins and other useful substances for the human body. Growing fruit bushes is not extremely difficult, but it requires time, effort and special knowledge.

One of the most important points of care is the pruning of fruit bushes, which should be carried out at a time determined by the agricultural technology of the species, since proper pruning has a positive effect on the health, lifespan and productivity of the crop, while untimely or incorrectly carried out pruning can cause serious damage to plants, and in some cases cases and irreparable harm. Autumn pruning Inspection of the main fruit bushes is carried out almost annually, and it is usually started when the bush enters a dormant period.

Each species fruit bush their own timing - some require pruning in September, others require pruning in October or November, and the methods of this procedure are not for everyone fruit crops are the same, but there are recommendations common to all shrubs:

• autumn pruning is done in areas where there are no severe and long frosts, otherwise the bark at the site of the wound may freeze out with the onset of winter, which can lead to the death of the bush;
• You cannot trim plants at temperatures below -10 ºC, because at such a low temperature the wood becomes too fragile, the cut tissue becomes loose, and the tools severely injure the branches;
• do not rush to prune the shrubs planted this year: it is quite possible that you made a mistake with the planting location and will want to move the bush to another part of the garden in the spring - in the new place you will begin to form the crown of the bush;
• autumn pruning is mostly applied to mature bushes and trees;
• be sure to treat cuts of thick branches (from 8 mm in diameter and more) with garden varnish;
• sharpened tools are used as tools for pruning garden shrubs - garden saws and pruning shears. Sometimes you have to work with an axe. A ladder may be needed.

Which shoots to prune depends on how many years a particular type of branch bears fruit. For example, black currant branches bear fruit for 5 years, therefore, branches older than five years must be removed, since they will no longer bear fruit, but will only begin to take away strength and nutrition from younger shoots that are promising in terms of fruiting. There are two methods of pruning: thinning, when the branches are cut off at the very base, and shortening - pruning only the upper part of the shoot. Best time pruning – a period of rest when sap flow has stopped.

Grows in the garden a large number of shrubs: fruit, ornamental and others. Each type of shrub requires appropriate care and pruning of shrubs in the fall, only in this case will it bring good harvest, decorate the area or just bloom beautifully.

Pruning FRUIT SHRUBS - HOW AND WHEN TO DO?

In order to get a good harvest from a fruit bush, you need to make sure that its crown is properly formed. The penetration of the sun's rays into the bush depends on this, normal air circulation and as a result the plant will be less sick. In addition, after trimming the bush it will be easier to care for and harvest.

With the help of constant pruning, you can regulate the growth of a fruit bush, its flowering and fruiting. In the first few years after planting the bush, you need to properly form the bush, and then simply maintain it in perfect condition, removing thickening.
Advice: Before you start pruning fruit bushes, you must sanitization: cut off all broken, diseased, dry branches, remove those that touch the ground and those that have directed their growth to the center of the crown.

Each fruit bush has its own timing and features of pruning.

Summer raspberries should be pruned in the fall immediately after harvest. Raspberry berries grow on the branches of a second-class bush, so they need to be cut back to the very root.

There should be no more than 8 shoots left on the fruit bush, which will bloom and bear fruit next year. The following shrubs are pruned using the same principle: blackberries and autumn raspberries.

Black currants can be pruned either immediately after harvest or late autumn when the leaves have already fallen. The fruits of this fruit bush grow on both old and new shoots. But the berries on older shoots are smaller, which is why they need to be completely cut off.

Old branches are easy to distinguish from young ones; their crown is darker. It is best to leave about 10 branches on the fruit bush after pruning; they will not interfere with each other and will give a good harvest next year. Currant branches are cut to the very root or to the first strong bud.

White and red currants are pruned after dropping their leaves. Fruit bushes can also be pruned additionally in mid-summer to prevent the bush from becoming too thick.

How to prune fruit bushes? The branches of fruit bushes are considered old after 5 years of fruiting, after which they will no longer produce crops, so they are cut off completely. The tops of these bushes are not pruned, since it is on them that the crop is formed.

Gooseberries are more prone to thickening than any other fruit bush, which is why they need to be thinned out annually, removing all new shoots. In this type of shrub, fruits appear only on branches that are already 5-7 years old, and then they are removed.

If fruit bushes produce a small harvest, then they can be completely rejuvenated by completely removing all the old branches at the root, leaving a few young shoots. After such pruning, the bush will completely restore its yield in a few years.

Advice: It is worth remembering that the stronger the basal branch of the shrub grows, the less it needs to be shortened, but it is better to remove weak shoots completely.

Pruning of ornamental shrubs - HOW AND WHEN TO DO?

There are a large number of ornamental shrubs; each type requires special care and timely pruning. Pruning shrubs involves the complete removal of diseased, weak and dead branches. After clearing the bush of weak branches, it begins to grow better and delight with lush flowering.

The main task of pruning ornamental shrubs is to achieve a decorative effect; it is for this reason that gardeners decorate their personal plots them. They are valued for lush flowering, decorative foliage and beautiful view even in winter time. And how to trim ornamental shrubs?

As for the methods of pruning ornamental shrubs, each type has its own characteristics. That is why, before you start pruning a particular tree, you need to determine exactly what type of shrub it is and how to prune it.

Conventionally, all types of shrubs can be divided into beautifully flowering and decorative deciduous.

WHEN TO PRUN FLOWERING SHRUBS?

Beautiful flowering shrubs grown in order to decorate the site, which is why the main objective pruning is to make the bush bloom profusely.

According to the characteristics of pruning, flowering shrubs are divided into three groups:

• The first group includes shrubs that do not form powerful shoots from the base. Every year they send out new shoots along the entire perimeter of the crown. Such shrubs include: viburnum, cotoneaster, barberry, magnolia, hibiscus and others. These shrubs require minimal pruning in the spring. In the first years after planting, it is important to form a skeleton of strong branches, and then weak branches are removed every spring. For mature plants, it will only be necessary to trim off dry and diseased branches. If necessary, you can remove a strong shoot to achieve a decorative look.

Photo: Example of magnolia pruning

• The second group includes shrubs that produce color on last year's shoots. This species includes: weigela, deutzia, hydrangea, tamarix, kerria, mock orange, three-lobed almond, some types of spirea and others. Shrubs belonging to this group usually begin to bloom in spring or early summer. It is also worth considering the fact that these shrubs grow quickly, so they need to be planted no later than two or three years of age. These types of shrubs are pruned minimally in the spring, only damaged and dry branches are removed. Immediately after flowering, in the fall, faded branches are cut off and left strong and strong. In the future, every year after flowering, all faded branches are cut off. You also need to cut off a quarter of the old shoots almost at the root.

Photo: Example of pruning hydrangea

• The third group includes shrubs that bloom on this year's shoots. Such shrubs include: spirea, David's buddleia, hydrangea and paniculata. In early spring, these types of shrubs are well pruned so that they can send out powerful shoots. If you do not prune them in the spring, then by autumn they will become very overgrown and will no longer bloom as much. In the first few years after planting, these types of shrubs are pruned lightly, giving them the opportunity to gain strength, and after that it will be necessary to prune them as much as possible every year.

Photo: Example of spirea pruning

Each shrub requires pruning; only in this case will it be able to produce a good harvest and bloom profusely. Don't be afraid to prune them; they recover very quickly and send out new shoots.

Pruning bushes in spring: Video

It is impossible to leave ornamental and fruit shrubs in the garden unattended, as in this case the young shoots will develop uncontrollably and the crown will become too thick. Shrub pruning in the spring is carried out according to a scheme that allows you to accelerate the growth of young shoots and prolong the fruiting of the crop. Pruning is carried out not only in spring, but also in autumn, guided by certain rules.

Deadlines spring pruning trees and shrubs, features of the procedure with photos and videos will be described in today’s article.

When working in the garden, we try to carefully follow all recommendations for fertilizing the soil, watering and pest control, however, when it comes to shrubs, many novice gardeners make mistakes typical mistake: they forget about thinning them.

Figure 1. Options for pruning fruit and ornamental shrubs in the garden

At first glance, it is not so necessary, but over time, when the bush grows, there is an understanding that this procedure is really important (Figure 1). Since a great variety of all kinds of shrubs are grown in our domestic gardens, it is natural that it is almost impossible to know the rules for pruning each of them. However, there are some general points, knowledge of which will be useful for all plants.

What you need for pruning

If you have a question about whether it is worth pruning your bushes, you can rest assured: it is not only worth it, but also necessary. After all, this procedure has a significant impact on the entire viability of the plant.

Remember that the main task when pruning is not to do harm, therefore, when starting work, you need to plan in advance what needs to be removed and for what purpose (for health; for the purpose of regulating growth; for the formation of fruits). Prepare all the necessary equipment, read the rules and get to work.

Pruning such plants in the spring is not only carried out according to a plan, but also has certain rules that help maintain the viability of the crop and extend its fruiting period.

The basic rules for pruning berry crops in spring include the following: s (Figure 2):

1. It is necessary to use only well-sharpened tools, which must be clean.
2. Try to injure the plant as little as possible. Use different instruments based on the situation. For example, thin branches are cut with pruning shears, and thick branches with a hacksaw.
3. When using pruners, make sure that they do not touch neighboring shoots that cannot be removed.
4. Stumps and cuttings should not be left split. The correct cut has a smooth surface and straight edges. All irregularities should be smoothed out with a garden knife and covered with garden varnish. If the cut surface exceeds 3 cm in diameter, then it is better to use oil paint.
5. Diseased, dry and broken shoots must be removed. The branches of weak plants are shortened as much as possible, but strong and healthy ones should not be shortened too much.
6. When shortening the shoot, the cut is made at an angle above the bud (side branch), without leaving a stump.
7. Cutting down thick horizontal branches is carried out in several stages. At the first, a cut is made from below, with a depth of a quarter of the diameter of the branch being cut. Then they retreat 1-2 cm from the main branch and make a second cut from above towards the first. They saw the shoot until it breaks off along the fiber. The resulting stump must also be carefully cut down.

Figure 2. Basic rules for pruning

Do not forget that pinching the shoot in a timely manner will save you from trimming it.

Peculiarities

In general, pruning any type of shrub (ornamental or berry) helps make it more neat and attractive. To carry out the procedure correctly, you need to know some of the structural features of the bush. Thus, the shoots of the culture develop from buds, which are located on the basal part of the stem. For this reason, when planting, the root collar should not be buried more than 5-8 cm, otherwise the shoots will not grow.

Note: At correct landing shrubs grow in height very quickly. Therefore, in order for them to begin to produce additional shoots, that is, to begin to bush, when planting it is recommended to shorten the longest branches to the same length. In this case, broken shoots are shortened to the first healthy bud, and weak shoots are removed completely.

Trimming conditions

Pruning should be just as mandatory. garden event, like watering, weeding or fertilizing. By neglecting it, we contribute to the thickening of the plant crown, thus creating conditions for the development of various pests and diseases. Therefore, it is recommended to thin out every year. If for some reason the bush is not pruned for a long time, and its crown is in a neglected state, you will have to remove a large number of shoots to thin it out. In this case, it is advisable to extend this procedure over several years so as not to harm the plant too much.

A typical mistake when growing shrubs is the idea that only mature plants need to be pruned. However, experience shows that it is very difficult or simply impossible to change an already formed crown. It is for this reason that it is recommended to carry out the formative procedure on a young plant.

With the arrival of spring there is more work in the garden. Among the many troubles, do not forget to pay attention to berry and ornamental shrubs. As soon as the snow melts at their base, you can begin thinning the berry bushes, if such work was not carried out in the fall (Figure 3). If time has been lost and the buds begin to bloom, pruning cannot be done.

Note: Among the decorative ones, tree-like ones (lilac, euonymus) are pruned first, since they form growths on the periphery of the crown. They undergo sanitary and rejuvenating cleaning.

Figure 3. Rules for pruning shrubs in spring

You should know that among the ornamental shrubs, lilac needs pruning the most. Therefore, in the spring it is necessary to remove all weak shoots growing inside the crown, which intersect with each other and interfere with full growth. Old bushes need to be rejuvenated by cutting down trunks with loose bark. The surface of uneven cuts must be cleaned with a knife and cleared of sawdust, then treated with any disinfectant, for example, garden pitch. If juice comes out from the cut area, you need to wait until it dries and only then cover the surface.

Features of spring pruning of shrubs are shown in the video.

Pruning fruit bushes in autumn

Autumn pruning of fruit bushes stimulates the growth of new branches and also increases the quantity and quality of fruits. It is known that by autumn the nutrients accumulated by the plant during summer time, pass from leaves to trunk, shoots and root system, and the plant itself enters a dormant period (Figure 4). You can identify it by fallen leaves. It is at this time that it is recommended to thin out berry bushes, since carrying out this procedure in the spring can lead to a loss of nutrients that return to the growing points.

The first pruning of the fruit bush is carried out in the year of planting and is repeated every autumn. In this case, the method of thinning depends on the age at which the plant was most productive. Thus, for black currants, the most productive are two-year-old shoots, but there are almost no berries on five-year-old branches. It is for this reason that it is necessary to remove old branches so that new young shoots can replace them. In this case, you should remove as many old shoots as you intend to leave young ones. Young shoots are cut to a third of their length, and the tops of 2-3-year-old shoots with 3-5 buds are cut off. The same principle applies to red and white currants, as well as gooseberries. The only difference is that not five-year-old branches, but seven-year-old branches are completely removed.

Figure 4. Proper pruning shrubs in autumn using the example of black currant

Raspberries also have their own characteristics. Its aboveground stems live only two years, during the first of which buds are formed on the shoot, which bear fruit in the second year of the shoot’s life and die completely in the fall. Therefore, annual pruning of raspberries involves removing dead two-year-old shoots and shortening young shoots to developed buds. Since raspberries tend to grow quickly, it is necessary to regularly thin out the raspberry plant, leaving 1 linear meter from 15 to 18 stems.

Tools for pruning trees and shrubs

When pruning and shaping trees and shrubs in their garden plot, gardeners use special equipment, which includes: secateurs, loppers, garden knife and garden saw (Figure 5).

The pruner is the most popular tool for pruning trees and shrubs due to its versatility. They can be used to trim small branches of medium thickness (up to 2.5 cm), remove shoots and dry shoots. A pruner with extended handles is called a lopper. It is convenient for working at high heights where it is difficult to reach.

Figure 5. Basic gardening Tools for pruning trees and bushes

A special garden knife is used for trimming stems and branches, as well as for cleaning out irregularities at the cutting and grafting sites. Advantage over with a regular knife- in a comfortable handle and durable blade. A small garden saw is equipped with the same handle, having a convenient weight and sharpening with a very correct wiring. It is useful for trimming branches whose diameter exceeds 3 cm. In this case, the cut area will be even and smooth.

When choosing tools for working in the garden, give preference to quality and good quality, because when proper care they will serve you for a long time. Make sure that the springs on the tools are always lubricated and the nuts are tightened, cutting edge only needs to be sharpened on one side. And, of course, do not forget that all tools must be kept clean. Therefore, immediately after use, clean them with a soft, dry cloth.

Sanitary pruning of trees and shrubs makes it possible to restore decorative qualities crowns of plants, as well as improve their fruiting quality (Figure 6). In addition, with regular practice of this type of pruning, the risk of wood and bark disease is reduced.

Figure 6. Features of sanitary pruning of trees and shrubs

Indications for sanitary pruning are the presence of dry (damaged) shoots, excessive thickening of the crown, broken (or completely broken) branches hanging in the crown, overgrown and intertwined shoots. In other words, the main goal of sanitary pruning is to remove branches (shoots) that pose a danger to both humans and the plant itself.

What's special

In a home garden, the need for sanitary pruning arises when plants are infected with diseases or damaged by pests. For example, fruit trees are often affected by fungi during the flowering period, when the use chemicals unacceptable. In this case, sanitary pruning is carried out, removing the affected and diseased branches and thus saving the entire plant.

However, this does not mean that healthy plants do not need this type of pruning. Very often skeletal branches fruit trees break under the weight of the fruit or due to strong wind. Therefore, there is a need to carry out sanitary pruning, cutting and sawing out broken shoots.

When needed

As a rule, planned sanitary pruning of fruit trees and shrubs is carried out in the spring, in March - April, when all branches are clearly visible. In addition to the cleansing effect, spring sanitary pruning stimulates the growth of shoots. If it is carried out during the period of mass flowering or after it, then this leads to rapid growth flower buds. However, you should know that summer sanitary pruning interferes with the growing season, so it is carried out selectively, only to remove unnecessary branches.

Lilacs and deutia are pruned in spring and summer, but hydrangea, tamarisk and spirea are pruned only in spring. Trees and bushes that bloom in the spring should be pruned after flowering.

Rules

Gardeners with many years of experience are advised to follow the following rules for sanitary pruning (Figure 7):

1. It is carried out only on rooted plants.
2. Sick and dry branches are cut off from the healthy part. The branches are removed into a ring, the shoots are removed above the outer bud, without touching it.
3. The cut area should be smooth, without burrs or torn edges. In this case, vertical branches must be cut obliquely to prevent water stagnation.
4. Large branches are cut down in three steps. The first cut is made 30 cm from the trunk, at the bottom of the branch, a quarter of the thickness deep. The second time the branch is sawn from above, 5 cm further from the first cut. During the third step, the remaining stump is cut down.

Figure 7. Features and rules for sanitary pruning

It is customary to lubricate the cut areas with a disinfectant and drying agent, for example, garden pitch. The exception is conifers trees whose wounds cannot be covered.