Installation of socket boxes in the wall - basic mistakes and rules. Installation of socket boxes in a concrete wall Installation of boxes for sockets before plaster

Socket box - plastic cup, inside of which a socket or switch is mounted. Installing a socket box - quite easy process, the technology of which depends on the material from which the walls are made. Learn about methods for installing a socket box with your own hands and get valuable advice from specialists in brief description each of them.

DIY installation of socket boxes in a brick wall

The main rule high-quality installation installing a socket box into a brick wall is a responsible and careful approach to this process. Installation of socket boxes is carried out in several stages:

before installing the wires - in this case, first the crowns are made, the socket box is installed, and then the cable is connected to them;
most often, socket boxes are installed after laying wires and determining the location of switches and sockets;
installing a socket box after completing the rough work - first, the cables are laid out in the room, then leveling plaster is applied, and only after it has dried, the socket boxes are installed.

the presence of a flat plane that only needs finishing Thus, the socket box will not be recessed into the wall; when installing the socket box before finishing with plaster, there will be difficulties in finding it;
is improving appearance socket box, it does not get dirty with the solution.

Work on the installation of electrical outlets should begin with the preparation of materials and tools, such as:

crown for socket for brick walls, with a diameter of 65 to 85 mm, for ease of installation of the socket, choose a little socket larger diameter, because cables and additional parts are also installed inside;
construction or laser level- allow you to install several socket boxes in a strictly horizontal position;
as measuring tool use a tape measure or ruler, you will also need a pencil to mark the installation locations of the socket boxes;
stock up on socket boxes of previously determined sizes;
A gypsum compound will help fix the socket boxes; to apply it, prepare a spatula, and to mix the compound, prepare a container and water.

Instructions for installing socket boxes in a brick wall with your own hands:

1. Make a drawing of the preliminary location of socket boxes in the room. According to the data received, make markings on the wall.

2. Prepare a hammer drill with special nozzle, with a diameter of 0.6 cm. Mark the drilling location and begin this process. The crown should be centered on the brick, thus simplifying the work process.

3. Do not press on the hammer drill, work in hammer mode in combination with drilling. Remove the central part from the prepared hole. If there are several socket boxes in the same plane, remove the jumpers between them.

4. To remove dust, use a regular or construction vacuum cleaner. After this, treat the hole with primer. After the primer has completely dried, continue working.

5. The socket boxes are installed freely inside the hole. After this, fill the hole with the previously prepared gypsum-based compound, spreading it evenly over the wall. Install the socket box, press it into the hole, remove excess mixture with a spatula. Level the device in relation to the level, check the quality of installation after an hour.

Installation of socket boxes in brick wall the price is determined by the amount of work, the type of socket and the complexity of the work.

Technology for installing socket boxes on concrete

There are two types of socket boxes:

old;
new generation.

The first ones are made of metal, are distinguished by the presence of steel stops, are not securely fixed to the wall and easily fall out of it. It is recommended to use for installing sockets in wooden buildings. In other cases, install new plastic socket boxes - they are held well in the wall due to the mortar used to fix them.

In the process of installing a wall socket, you will need a hammer drill, which has a special crown, as well as Pobedit drills and teeth. The diameter of a standard plastic socket box is 6.8 cm. Make a hole with a slightly larger diameter so that the socket box can easily fit into it.

Please note that plastic socket boxes are used for installation only in concrete or brick walls. If you need to replace an old outlet with a new one, first turn off the power to the room and remove the old outlet.

A screwdriver is used for these purposes. Remove the cover and disconnect the screws on the wires. Remove the old socket, remove the old base that is held in place by dowels.

This is the case if old socket was external. Install the crown into the hammer drill and drill a hole for the socket box. Its depth should not exceed five centimeters. Vacuum away the concrete and debris, and use a hammer and chisel to reshape the hole. Build an entrance for the power wires and connect them to the electrical outlet. Build a plug on the side where the wire is installed.

Put it in a spray bottle hot water and wet the hole. Combine plaster and putty, mix the solution, apply it inside the hole. Level and fix the socket box in relation to the level, additionally fix it with a solution. Wait until it dries completely and only then install the socket. Installation of socket boxes in concrete wall- a fairly easy process, to complete which it is enough to study all the technological aspects associated with the correct drilling of a hole in the wall.

We install a socket box on drywall - the cost of installing a socket box in a block

On plasterboard walls ah install special socket boxes. Fixation principle of this device based on special paws installed on the side or rear. The front part of the part is distinguished by the presence of four screws, twice as many as in concrete.

Two outer screws secure the appliance and socket or switch. The remaining screws are slightly recessed into the mechanism; they perform the function of fixing the frame. The screws are responsible for the tabs on the socket box; when they rotate, they fix the device in the desired position.

By turning the screw with a screwdriver, the foot begins to move and secure the socket box to the wall. The back of the device is distinguished by the presence of special holes and blanks for wires. Cut one of them and install the cable. Try to make sure that the wire goes into the socket from the back. Thus, the process of installing sockets or switches is greatly simplified. Use a utility knife to cut the hole.

Instructions for installing a socket box on a plasterboard wall:

1. Prepare a tape measure and take measurements at the location of the outlet.

2. As you perform these activities, be guided by the following standards:

the socket must be at least 300 mm from the floor;
if there is a washing machine in the bathroom, install the socket 100 cm from it;
The distance between the floor and the socket in the kitchen should be at least 120 cm.

3. Create a hole in the drywall. There are different ways for these purposes:

use a stationery knife, with its help a hole is cut along a pre-drawn diameter;
drill a hole with a drill and then cut with a knife;
crown under Spotlights- an ideal option that produces a high-quality hole with smooth edges.

The crown is mounted on a screwdriver or electric drill.

There are situations when a hole in the wall is already ready and a previously removed wire sticks out of it. In this case, first a hole is cut out in the socket box for the wire, and then fixed on the wall.

One pair of screws secures the socket box to the wall, and the second pair adjusts the claws that also hold this device. When the socket retracts a little into the hole, loosen the screws a little and check the quality of fixation. Next comes the process of installing switches and sockets.

Features of installing sockets in socket boxes

The aluminum wire that comes out of the socket box is connected to the outlet. However, if its length is insufficient, an intermediate terminal block is installed, which performs the function of a conductor. choose black wires that have contact paste. They combine well with aluminum and copper elements.

A single-core rigid copper wire must have a current reserve and high strength. The terminals are placed on the bottom of the socket box. Length copper wires should not exceed 1.5 cm.

Connect the terminals to the wires and secure the socket. Check the evenness of the socket fixation using a level. To install self-tapping screws, you will need a screwdriver. Be sure to turn off the power to the room before performing work.

Please note that sockets are installed after finishing.

Installation of socket boxes before plaster

Installation of any socket box begins with the construction of a hole. To fix the device in the wall, use a solution based on alabaster or gypsum. There are three ways to create holes for the socket box:

1. Using a crown with a diameter of 7 cm. This part is characterized by the presence of teeth that easily pass through the wall. The crown is mounted on a drill or hammer drill. To avoid damaging the outlet, take the wire from it to the side and turn off the power to the room in which you are working. Push the crown completely into the wall. To drill the central hole, use Pobedit-based drills. To adjust the size of the hole and make it more accurate, use a chisel.

2. The second method involves using an impact drill or hammer drill. In this case, the socket box is installed on the wall and its contours are outlined. Using a Pobedit drill, drilling is performed along the contour of the socket box. Using a chisel and hammer, remove internal filling holes.

3. Creating a hole with a grinder - this method relevant if you have neither a drill nor a hammer drill in your house. Using a grinder, a hole is cut in the concrete along the previously outlined contour. Pay special attention to the areas where the wire is located. The depth of the circle should be less than the diameter of the socket box; bring it to the desired size with a chisel.

The next stage just involves adjusting the hole for the socket box. The socket box should fit freely into the hole. A gypsum solution will be installed in the inside of the socket box to perform a fixation function.

Prepare a gypsum-based solution; for this you will need:

gypsum of two types - construction and medical;
alabaster with water.

Place the plaster in a container, gradually stirring it and add water. Prepare the solution in small portions, as its shelf life does not exceed 7 minutes. Fix the socket box with this solution. Apply the solution into the hole, install the socket box and check its evenness with a level. Please note that the screws must be horizontal to the floor.

After the solution has set, continue working. Place plaster in the side parts that are not filled with mortar. Coat it around the socket. After the solution has dried, remove excess.

To connect two socket boxes together, use a butterfly. This additional element connections. With its help, several socket boxes are fixed. Double and triple socket boxes are installed in the same way as single ones. The main requirement is the evenness and horizontal position of the screws.

Installation of a socket box video:

Without reliable wiring, life in an apartment or house immediately loses its comfort. To make the conditions as comfortable as possible, it is worth taking care of everything related to electrics. Socket boxes are no exception. Without them, it is simply impossible to install a high-quality outlet that will withstand maximum loads.

What is a socket box and what are its types?

The socket box is a special box that is made from various materials(usually plastic or metal). The main task of this instrument is to seal holes in the wall and install an outlet in it.

The best material for manufacturing is plastic. The socket rests on it confidently and reliably. Metal socket boxes (also called sleeves) are usually used only in wooden houses, as this is required by safety regulations. The decrease in demand for sleeves is explained by the fact that such devices have a weaker connection with sockets (compared to plastic analogues). In addition, their sharp edges can damage important wires.

Types of socket boxes

Any socket box is not suitable for installation. They must be selected depending on the wall in which they will be installed. There are 2 data groups in total:

On concrete walls. From the name it becomes obvious that the installation of such socket boxes is carried out in a concrete wall. But besides this, they are suitable for foam and aerated concrete, brick and expanded clay coatings.
For plasterboard surfaces, as well as for structures made of plywood and chipboard, tools from a different group are used.

Preparatory work

After purchasing a socket box, you should carry out special preparatory work. This won't take much time. The main thing is to conduct a quality assessment of the wall.

Attention ! In some cases, instead of one electrical outlet, a whole block of combined several devices is used. When installing them, do not forget about the distance between the centers of each socket box.

Installation in concrete

When the socket box has been purchased, the preparatory work has been completed, you can proceed to installation. However, it is unlikely that anyone will be able to install socket boxes into a concrete wall with bare hands. Therefore, you will definitely need the following tools:

Drill with drill bit for concrete;
Hammer;
Special crowns for drilling concrete. Their diameter must correspond to the dimensions of the mounted device;
Regular pencil and ruler;
Chisel with hammer;
Grinder with a special blade for concrete;
Putty knife;
Gypsum. Suitable for both construction and medical;
Paper knife

Tools such as a grinder or a hammer drill are a must. If you don’t have your own tools, you can rent them from specialized construction stores.

When the entire arsenal is collected, you can move on to the next stage.

Marking and making holes for the socket box

Before installation, be sure to accurately mark the location where the socket box will be installed. The height of future sockets and switches is selected individually, but if desired, you can use the following professional standards:

IN living rooms sockets are placed at a height of 30 cm from the covered floor;
In the kitchen, for convenience, the height from the floor reaches 120 cm;
Switch height - 90 cm.

After defining optimal height To to the right place a socket box is attached. The outline is outlined with a pencil.

Now before installation all that remains is to drill the required hole. To do this, a special round crown is placed on the hammer drill. It resembles a small piece of pipe with sharp teeth that will drill through the wall. You should drill until the crown is completely embedded in the wall. After this, the central part, using a chisel, is refined in depth.

Advice ! To make the crown cut easier required holes, in the center of the markings, you can make holes using a drill.

If you don't have a crown, you can use other methods. There are only 2 of them and each is radically different. In the first case, a hammer drill or drill with a special drill (Pobedit) is used. Along the contour of the marked circle, special holes are drilled as deep as possible. They should be close to each other. After this, the central part is knocked out with a chisel. The advantage of this method is speed. Using a crown will quickly heat up the power tool, so it needs to rest periodically. Therefore, it can take all day to make 12-15 indentations. In this case there is no such drawback.

You can also prepare a place for a socket box using a grinder. To do this, use a pencil and ruler again. The circled outline should be converted into a square by drawing one straight line on each side. After this, you should walk along straight lines with a grinder. Also, as in previous versions, the middle is knocked out with a chisel.

Depth adjustment

After the hole is made, you should check whether the socket box fits completely into it. IN ideal The device should be clearly flush with the wall. In this case, the future socket or switch will be close to the wall.

Advice ! The socket box has an unnecessary edge. When cut, the device will fit perfectly into the wall.

After this, a groove is made in the wall, which will allow the wire to be connected. It, in turn, is inserted into the socket box from the back. After threading the wire, the tool is inserted into the hole made.

The final stage

Almost all the work has been done, all that remains is to fix the socket boxes using a special solution. It needs to be prepared in small quantities and only before embedding, since it begins to harden within a few minutes. To prepare it, you must gradually add water to the plaster. The mixture is constantly stirred. The result should be a mass whose consistency resembles thick sour cream.

Important ! Before performing work, the hole should be washed with water, thus removing excess dust.

When all the moisture has been absorbed, a solution is laid out into the hole with a spatula, into which the socket box with the wire is inserted. It should be installed carefully so that it does not protrude, otherwise obvious defects will be noticeable in the future. After this, all cracks are sealed with the remaining solution.

Installation in a brick wall

Installing socket boxes in a brick wall is no different from the option described above. That is, you will need all the same tools. The method of making holes is also suitable for any of those already indicated. But the installation of socket boxes in drywall is somewhat different. This will be discussed further

Socket box in a plasterboard wall

Before installing the device, you should carefully prepare the surface. To prevent it from crumbling or breaking during the drilling process, you should treat the wall with a large amount of primer, which will strengthen its structure.

When the drywall is dry, you can proceed to drilling holes. For this you can use either special crowns or a simple drill using a mounting knife. It is important that the hole is the same diagonal as the installation box. To achieve this, it is recommended that you first mark it in the same way as in the case of a concrete wall.

When the holes are ready, a box is inserted into them, from which all jumpers that do not allow the cable to be inserted must first be removed. To ensure strength, the socket box should be tightened tightly with screws. Also, the seat (before fixing) can be additionally puttied. This will also strengthen the structure.

Installing an outlet

Installation of the socket in the socket box is the final stage. This procedure only takes a few minutes, but you should adhere to the following rules:

You should remove the top cover from the very beginning. To do this, a bolt is unscrewed in the center.
Then you should loosen the contacts into which the wires are inserted. To avoid overheating in the future, the contacts should be tightened as tightly as possible.

In this article we will examine in detail the question of how to install socket box on concrete. Having in hand well-written instructions, supplemented with detailed photographs and comments from a specialist, the solution this issue will not pose any difficulties for you. is the foundation of installation
electrical wiring elements, such as sockets, switches, dimmers, and so on, so the quality of its installation needs to be given special attention.

Basically, all socket boxes are divided into two main groups:

Socket boxes for concrete - used for installation in concrete, brick, foam concrete, aerated concrete, blocks made of expanded clay.The installation of the socket box is carried out in a pre-prepared hole by fixing it with a solution of plaster or alabaster.
Socket boxes for plasterboard - used for installation in plasterboard, chipboard, various types of plywood, SML sheets. Installation is carried out by fixing the socket box using the spacer tabs available on it into a pre-prepared hole. You can read the instructions on our website in the corresponding article.

In this article, we will examine in detail how socket boxes are installed on concrete.

Making the markings

Before installing the socket box, it is necessary to mark the location of the future socket or switch, since each installation element has its own installation coordinates.

Some standards that electricians often use are listed below:

sockets in living rooms - 30 centimeters from the clean floor (the so-called "Euro standard");
sockets above kitchen countertop- 110-120 centimeters;
socket above washing machine- 1 meter;
switch, pass-through switch, dimmer - 90 centimeters from the clean floor.

However, it is worth noting that these standards are not fundamental and you can edit them as you wish, according to your taste and discretion.

Let's start installation. We measure the required distance from the floor to the planned switch or socket. If there is no clean floor yet, we add +5 centimeters to our dimensions for screed and laminate (linoleum).

For the switch, you can use the hand measuring technique. Approach the place of planned installation, place your hand down, notice a comfortable position. This method allows you to customize the switch specifically for you. If several people use the switch, you can take the average arm length.

Next, measure the required distance from the wall to the socket box. If you plan to install the switch near the door, then measure the required distance from its edge; 15-18 centimeters from the edge of the passage arch, excluding the door frame, is considered optimal.

Now, mark all the dimensions with a pencil on the wall.

The marking is completed.

Making a hole for the socket box

All concrete sockets are mounted into the wall using alabaster or gypsum mortar, but before installing the socket it is necessary to make a hole in which it will be installed. There are many ways in which it can be made. We will look at three of the simplest and most effective.

Method 1. Crown for concrete sockets

The main device for making holes for socket boxes in concrete is a concrete and brick drill bit with a diameter of 70 millimeters.

The standard diameter of the socket is 67 millimeters; some manufacturers also have a diameter of 68 mm.

Rice. Crown for socket boxes on concrete

According to the diameter of the cylinder, the crown for socket boxes for concrete has Pobedit teeth, with which it cuts a circle; in the middle there is a Pobedit drill for centering. The bit is installed on a hammer drill or electric drill and by means of rotation or rotation with impact, a hole is made.

We move the wire to the side so as not to damage it when drilling and make a hole.

The crown should be completely recessed into the wall.

To facilitate the drilling process, you can first drill a centering hole in the center of the marking of the future socket box with a regular Pobedit drill; in this case, it will be much easier for the crown to cut through the wall material.

We take out the crown and bring the resulting hole to the desired depth. This can be done using an impact bit on a hammer drill or a chisel and hammer.

We considered the first option for making a hole for a socket box, in which we used a crown for socket boxes for concrete. Let's consider the following method.

Method 2. Using an impact drill, hammer drill and pobedit drill

In order to use this method, the first thing you need to do is outline the socket box. We attach it to the wall and outline it with a pencil.

Then we go around the perimeter in a circle. The denser and deeper the holes are drilled, the easier it will be to clean the hole from the wall elements later.

Now, it's up to a hammer and chisel or a hammer drill with an impact bit. We bring the hole to the required size.

Method 3. Making a hole using a grinder (angle grinder)

This method is the fastest of all the above, but also the dustiest. I don’t think there’s much need to explain its meaning. It is especially suitable, for example, when installing socket boxes in a concrete wall is required.

The execution process is simple, we take an angle grinder (angle grinder) and off we go.

We cut all the marked lines: a central cross and a square along the perimeter of the outlined socket box. Be careful with the wire.

After everything is cut, we knock out the squares from the hole with a chisel or bat and bring it to the desired depth. As a rule, the depth of the circle is less than the depth of the socket box, so using this method be prepared to knock a little.

We adjust the hole to the size of the socket box

After making the hole, we check how the socket box fits into it. Since the diameter of the socket is smaller than the diameter of the crown, there will be no problems with the width, but you need to look at the depth.

The hole must be brought to such a depth that the socket box falls into it a little, about 4-5 millimeters. This reserve is necessary because, in addition to the socket box itself, a fixing solution (gypsum, alabaster) will be placed inside the hole, and some space will also be needed for bending the wire entering the socket box.

To make the following stages of work easier after installing the socket box, I recommend cutting off the edges of the made hole. This action can be performed using a knife. Due to the manipulations we have performed, the socket box will be sunk into the hole along with the outer skirt, which will make it possible to install it flush with the wall. This installation feature will allow you to perform an ideal installation of a socket or switch by maximally pressing its metal mounting frame, and therefore the plastic decorative frame, against the wall. As a rule, a non-recessed socket skirt can give a gap of the socket frame from the wall of about 1-2 mm.

Now, you need to insert the wire into the socket box; to do this, we make a small groove for it in the upper part of the hole. You can make a groove using a chisel and a hammer or a hammer drill with an impact bit. Soft wall material can even be chopped with a chisel. In our example, this is exactly what we use.

The strobe is ready.

The wire should be easy to install without interfering with the electrical outlet.

Now, turn the socket box over. On its back we see specially prepared slots for the wire.

Select the one you need and cut it out with a knife. It is very advisable to run the wire from the back of the socket box; this will greatly facilitate the subsequent installation of the socket or switch and protect the wire from damage.

The hole is made.

We put the socket on the wire and insert it into the hole.

Nothing should interfere and let me remind you, there should be a reserve of 2-3 millimeters in depth for the fixing solution.

Everything fits, everything has been checked. We clean the hole from debris and dust and proceed to preparing the gypsum solution.

Preparation of gypsum solution

To prepare the solution, we need a mixing container.

For our purposes you can use:

building gypsum
medical plaster
alabaster

Pour a small amount of gypsum into a container.

You should get a homogeneous, creamy mixture of medium thickness.

The resulting solution has a very short time for use; literally after 2-3 minutes the solution will begin to harden very quickly, and after 5 minutes it will no longer be suitable for use.

Installation of a socket box

Using the resulting solution, we fix the socket box in the hole. Before installation, the hole must be thoroughly moistened with water. Water acts as a primer and washes away fine dust. We wait until the water is absorbed for 2-3 minutes.

We put the socket on the wire and insert it into the hole. The solution should cover well back wall the socket box being squeezed out of the slots of the holes.

We align it so that the screws are located horizontally to the floor, and the glass itself is flush with the wall or 1-1.5 mm deeper. You can check the installation depth by placing a level with the flat side to the wall diagonally across the socket box. The most important thing is that it does not stick out, otherwise there will be a bump, and therefore later there will be problems with installing the socket or switch.

The main fixation has been completed, so we do not move the glass of the socket box anymore, otherwise the solution will not set and the socket box will not be properly fixed.

Now, we make additional fixation by placing the solution in the side gaps between the wall and the socket box. You need to not just coat the solution around, but rather put it in the gaps.

Now, you can smear it around.

The socket is installed.

We wait for it to dry completely and only then remove the excess solution that got inside the socket. When dry, it separates well from the plastic.

I would like to note that the installation of socket boxes in a concrete wall is carried out similarly to the example discussed. The only difficulty here, as a rule, is making a hole in the concrete, as suggested above, it is better to do it with an angle grinder (angle grinder), method 3.

The next step is, you can read the installation instructions on our website in the relevant articles.

If you are interested in more detailed description connection and installation of various electrical wiring elements (sockets with and without grounding, various switches, including backlit ones, chandeliers, lamps, exhaust fan bathroom) you might be interested in.

How to install a double socket box

To install two sockets in one frame, the installation of two socket boxes is required. Let's take a closer look at how it's done this type installation

Docking with each other is done using a connector (butterfly).

There are special grooves on the side of the socket boxes into which they are inserted.

In this way you can assemble a garland of 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and so on socket boxes.

For our example, we only need two. We make markings. We measure the distance from the floor.

Using a level, draw an even horizontal strip at the desired height.

Now, using one of the three methods outlined above, we make two hole holes.

The difference from installing a single socket box is that after making the hole, you need to connect the two holes to each other. This is done so that the connector connecting the two socket boxes fits into the holes. It is ideal to cut through these joints with a grinder.

After making the holes, just as in the example of installing a single socket box, we lower the wire into one of the two holes obtained in the groove.

The rest of the installation is carried out similarly to a single socket box.

The last point that is worth paying special attention to is the strict approach to aligning them horizontally when fixed with plaster. It is necessary to plant on a gypsum solution only with a level; the greater the number of socket boxes in the chain, the stricter this requirement.

The installation of various electrical wiring elements is described in as detailed and colorful a manner as possible.

To complete the work we used:

Material

plaster, alabaster
socket box

In the happily forgotten times of global shortages, hidden sockets were installed forever. The block with terminals was literally walled up in concrete or in a brick wall. Sometimes without mounting box. Ordinary citizens had no right to dream about repairing an electrical point with their own hands. Nowadays, a beginner in electrical engineering can handle fixing and connecting the upgraded device without any problems. The developers of the sockets have thoroughly thought out and polished the entire process of their installation. An important point The process is the installation of socket boxes, thanks to which the repair and replacement of devices does not cause negligible difficulties.

Criteria for selecting an installation box

The supply of wires must be formed into loops or “soft” folds. The formation of sharp creases is extremely undesirable. The loops should be placed at the bottom of the installation box so that the wire sections stripped of insulation do not touch.

The current-carrying cores of wires with a cross-section of 2.5 square meters or more of the specified size are quite rigid. Rolling them up and laying them in loops under the socket block will be very problematic if the internal depth of the socket box is 15-30 usable cm. This means that to install an socket connected to a source with a thick cable, a deeper socket box will be required.

Algorithm for installing a socket box in a solid wall

Owners wooden baths easier. The requirements of the PUE recommended the device for them open wiring and installation of overhead sockets. They will not have any special complications with either laying the power line or attaching the supply points. Owners of cultural and hygienic objects made of concrete or brick will have to go through a thorny and labor-intensive path. But before you move in the chosen direction, you should figure out how to install a socket box in a solid wall.

Starting stage: marking

For a home handyman who is ignorant of the intricacies of organizing bath wiring, marking undoubtedly seems like the simplest process. But no. You will have to follow the code of laws of the PUE:

in steam rooms and washing rooms, shower compartments and saunas, the installation of plug-type sockets with all necessary accessories is prohibited;
The bathhouse electrical network must be connected to the grounding circuit or to lightning protection;
the socket should be removed at least 60 cm from the doorway of the shower stall located in the bathhouse;
The power supply for the bath wiring may be installed in the rest room;
The shield should be equipped with a automatic device or other means of protection.

There is advice that is not specified in the PUE rules, but has a technically justified right to exist. It is better to connect the cable to the outlet from below so that drops of condensation do not accidentally flow into the device. Especially if due to wrong installed socket box There will be gaps between the protective frame and the wall. The height of the outlet is selected arbitrarily in the range of 30 – 60 cm from the floor line. This parameter does not have any limits: i.e. We install it in a way that is convenient for us to use.

It was not in vain that we talked about inserting the cable into the socket box. After all, a fine will need to be chiseled under it, which also applies to labor-intensive and dusty tasks. The cable costs money. Then you have to seal the furrow with plaster, alabaster or cement mortar. Again costs. This means that in the name of reducing costs, you need to figure out in advance how to rationally arrange power line, and then:

we will draw on the wall the shortest path for the future movement of the electrodes and determine on it the optimal point for mounting the box;
through the selected point we draw a horizontal line with a vertical line, controlling our own intuition with a level gauge, a square and a plumb line;
from the center of their intersection we will set aside segments equal to the outer radius of the socket box;
Let's attach this installation box to the wall, turning its back towards us;
Let's combine the marked points with the edges of the box and draw its outline on the hay.

Well prepared. Now you can begin to form the grooves and the main hole.

"Drilling and crushing" process

You can drill a concrete wall with a grinder. But it is much more useful to stock up on a hammer drill with a diamond bit, which is used to form wide holes. We drew some semblance of a carbine sight on the wall for a reason. The central point of the drawing is needed to correctly hit the designated place of the drill annular crown. The drill will drill into the thickness of the wall first and direct the crown in the right direction. Let's not forget about the drilling depth limiter. It will automatically shut down the tool when it reaches its intended target. We calculate the depth by adding 1.5 cm to the height of the socket to apply adhesive solution to the bottom of the hole.

The sequence of drilling a hole for the installation box:

we will wet a section of the wall if our bit is not intended for dry drilling of concrete structures;
We will equip the hammer drill with the drill we have;
install the drill at the designated point;
Sticking to the “rotation with impact” mode, let’s start with a couple of test runs;
We drill the wall until the tool stops.

In the absence of a hammer drill, you can use impact drill, but to make several narrow holes nearby and modify the recess to required sizes chisel In general, you can only “make holes” in the wall with a chisel, but this is tedious and takes too long.

Direct installation of the mounting box

Let's try the installation box to the formed hole. Don't let the depth reserve scare you. Plaster, cement mortar or alabaster will help align everything with the wall. Construction alabaster hardens too quickly for inexperienced hands home handyman. It is better to secure the box in the hole using plaster.
Having made sure that the work with the hole for the socket box has been successfully completed, we will bring the hole to it along the drawn path. It’s better to cut through it with a grinder and finish it off with a chisel.
Let's break out the hatch in the sidewall intended by the box manufacturer. We will then pull the cable through the resulting hole.
Clean the drilled hole from cement dust and treat it with a primer.
We apply plaster into the hole without ostentatious generosity.
We insert the socket box into the hole so that the broken hatch for introducing the cable is opposite the hole. We press down the box until it is flush with the “damaged” wall.
After 7-10 minutes, remove excess plaster and level the surface with a spatula.
We wait a couple of hours for the plaster to harden, then we connect the wiring to the box.
Let's lay the cable along the groove intended for it, calculating that it needs to be inserted approximately 20 cm into the socket box.
To temporarily fix the cable in the groove, we use alabaster, because it sets quickly. We apply alabaster patches every half meter.
Having retreated approximately 5 cm from the outline of the hole for the box, we fix the cable with a plastic bracket for reliability.

At the end, we insert the power line into the hatch of the socket box and... we peacefully rub our hands, because the installation of the box is completed.

We install the rosettes for the socket cable in exactly the same way. We just drill a large hole, having first drawn out all the contours of the boxes on the wall. For two sockets located in a row, a wonderful alternative is sold - a box with “two seats”.

The process of installing a socket box in a hollow wall

Hidden electrical wiring is laid not only in monolithic walls, but also in hollow partitions made of plasterboard or other sheet material. For installation, socket boxes with spacer tabs are then used, ensuring perfect fixation of the box in the hollow wall.

Drilling wide holes will now require a drywall drill bit. You can attach it not to a hammer drill, but simply to a drill. There is no need to cut the grooves at all; the cable will lie freely between the sheets attached to the metal frame.

We proceed according to the following scheme:

In the box, by analogy with the method described above, we break out the hatch.
We insert the socket box into the formed hole and insert the cable through the hatch.
We tighten the two mounting screws that tighten the legs of the box. They will rest against the wall material on the back side. We do not tighten the screws all the way at once, but tighten them one by one. First, we will tighten one of them a little, then the second, so that there are no distortions due to deformation of the material.

Installation of boxes for soldering units and switches in plasterboard walls is done in exactly the same way.

Additional video instruction

Having sufficiently admired the result of your labor, you can begin connecting the socket mechanism. You can secure it in the socket box either using sliding legs, or with simple screws, for screwing which there are on the walls of the box threaded holes. Inexperienced home electricians are better off using screws, because... The fixation with the paws is not very reliable and can disappoint due to the azimuthal misalignment. So, we’ll attach it with screws and close it at the top. decorative cover and we will be happy to use the installed on our own electrical point.

The power supply of any premises must ensure the ability to quickly connect electrical installations (including household appliances). For this purpose, sockets placed on the walls are used. Since the connection of sockets to the power cable must be reliable and safe, the Electrical Installation Rules (PUE) require the presence of a housing for each socket that provides protection against damage electric shock. Sockets designed for wall-mounted(including street) have their own building that meets safety measures. For devices built into the wall, installation of socket boxes is provided.

Receptacle boxes serve multiple functions

Structural: the box must be firmly fixed in the wall, and securely hold the socket itself.
Electrical safety. Boxes for brick, concrete and plasterboard walls are made of dielectric materials and prevent electric potential from contacts to supporting structures.
In addition, the outlet itself is protected. Moisture, dust, and foreign objects do not penetrate inside the case.
Fire safety. If a fire occurs inside the socket, the flame does not penetrate beyond the socket box.
There is also an aesthetic component. When installing socket boxes in a brick or concrete wall, the seat looks neat. A flat surface is obtained around the outlet.

Requirements for socket boxes

A unified set of rules describing the installation of boxes for hidden installation electrical outlets, does not exist. Electrical installation rules require compliance general requirements fire and electrical safety. In this sense, installing a box under an outlet is no different from installing distribution box. Exist building codes and rules (SNiP) that determine the geometry of the placement of sockets in the room. Well, common sense has not been canceled.

We will try to combine all the conditions under which the installation of socket boxes will not cause problems during the operation of electrical equipment.

An optional but useful requirement is the ability to connect several sockets to each other using standard clamps. This allows you to assemble a structure of any length.

We proceed to the direct installation of socket boxes

Before starting work, it is advisable to have a complete set Supplies. Power cable, required amount socket boxes (with a small reserve “for scrap”), building mixtures, PVA glue. The power tool you plan to use to cut the holes.

Marking

Regardless of whether the power cable is laid in advance, or you will be trenching the walls for it at the same time as drilling niches for sockets, the installation of socket boxes begins with careful marking.

It is impossible to guess where electrical appliances will be placed. Perhaps tomorrow you will want to rearrange your apartment. Therefore, sockets are installed according to the following principle:

For universal use - at a height of 30 cm from the finished floor (meaning the height from the laid finishing coating).
For large household appliances ( washing machine, refrigerator) at a height of 1 meter.
If the socket blocks are mounted above countertops or bedside tables - no less than 10 cm from the surface.
A special case is the installation of sockets for a TV hung on the wall. This is an individual project.
But the distance between the centers of the socket boxes is a constant (applies to a group installation, in a row). This value for installing standard sockets is 71 mm.

The horizontal position must also be taken into account. From corners, ceiling, floor, door frames- a distance of at least 15 cm. From heating radiators no closer than 50 cm. Of course, you cannot place sockets above heating devices (with the exception of the “warm floor” system) and above kitchen stoves. Electrical installation rules and SNiP prohibit the installation of sockets and the laying of wires on walls directly facing the street.

Making holes

There are three main ways. There are no advantages or disadvantages between them. It all depends on the tools and attachments you have. There is no fundamental difference between installing socket boxes in a brick or concrete wall, so the technology is similar.

Crown for stone (concrete, brick). The classic and fastest option for drilling a wall for a round box.
The diameter of such a nozzle is usually 70 or 75 mm. Considering the external dimensions of the socket boxes (61–65 mm), it is better to use a larger crown. Firstly, it’s easier to fill an extra gap with a solution than to squeeze a box into a tight hole. Secondly, you have a small margin in case of a miscalculation in the markings. Then, adhering strictly to the central markings, we drill holes to a depth exceeding the length of the socket box by 10–15 mm. You won’t be able to make ready-made holes; most likely the installation location will look like this:
It's okay, the core can be easily knocked out with a chisel or bolt.

Advice! What to do if reinforcement gets in the way of the crown? (Applies to concrete walls only).

Identifying the metal under the crown is not difficult. You definitely can’t go wrong: the deepening stops and a characteristic knocking and vibration appears.

Most good advice- change the installation location of the socket. The reinforcement has a pitch of 15–30 mm; if the placement is not so important, move the hole by 3–5 cm. Before doing this, try to determine which reinforcement you hit: vertical or horizontal. This will help avoid further mistakes.

If it is impossible to move the socket block, you will have to remove a piece of reinforcement. To do this, knock out a “glass” of concrete to see the metal. Use a bolt to break the area around the reinforcement a couple of centimeters. A wire with a diameter of 5–6 mm can be cut with a chisel.

Thicker reinforcement will have to be drilled out.

The best option is to cut out this area with a grinder. We will get acquainted with this method further.
Drilling holes using a drill. Not the easiest way, but if you don’t have a crown, you can make one or two seats. The fundamental difference is that the contour is not drilled at the center marking point. It is necessary to draw a circle with a diameter of 75 mm around it. Then you need to drill holes along the contour as often as possible.
And then, as in the first option, use a bolt or chisel.
Tip: Don't be afraid to damage the integrity of the wall around the holes. Of course you want everything to look beautiful even on preparatory stage: holes as in the picture, perfectly even row. You will simply waste extra time; all uneven areas will be plastered over and covered with the finishing surface.

By the way, if you are installing socket boxes in a brick wall, drilling will not be a difficult task. The material is soft, easy to drill even without a hammer drill: a regular drill with a pobedit drill.

If you are making a niche in red brick, try to get between the cement layers. There is less damage (concrete breaks out in pieces), and it is easier to select a hole.
Installation of socket boxes using a grinder. This method is not used due to the lack of a drill or crown for concrete. If you have an angle grinder, then you also have a hammer drill. It's just another technology, no better or worse than the others.
The only condition under which this method is indispensable is working with a reinforced concrete wall of special strength. You will simply dull an expensive bit, and the discs on an angle grinder cost pennies.

Together with the grooves for the power cable, we simply cut out rectangular or square holes with a margin around the socket boxes.

It definitely looks rough. On more or less treated walls, the hand does not rise to such blasphemy. And if finishing is still a long way off, this is the fastest and effective method. Also suitable for brick walls.
The most unesthetic method is a hammer drill in jackhammer mode. It should be resorted to only if other methods are impossible. However, the technology is there and we cannot ignore it.

The end result is ready-made holes for socket boxes with connected grooves. Clean the niches with a brush or construction vacuum cleaner, and be sure to prime it.

Installation of boxes

In accordance with the markings, try it on assembled blocks. Installation of socket boxes is carried out regardless of the quality of the holes. If the box rests on an incorrectly drilled niche, it needs to be expanded. Marking is our everything! Don’t be lazy at this stage, even if you don’t want to pick up a chisel again and make a mess.

Experienced installers attach the socket boxes to some kind of guide, fix the ideal location, and then cover the boxes with alabaster.

If you simply sit the socket boxes in a liquid solution, they may move before they dry completely. You'll have to redo everything again.

The wires must be left with a margin of 10–15 cm. When installing sockets, you will remove the excess, leaving a small installation loop.

The eternal question: install socket boxes before or after plastering

If the surface is covered with plasterboard, there is no such problem. What to do when installing socket boxes in a brick or concrete wall?

In fact, from a technical point of view there is no difference. You can accurately calculate the planting height: the main thing is that the socket box does not stick out, even by 1 mm. If the edge is recessed by 3–5 mm, this is not a problem. The mounting pad of the socket will rest against the wall, and use longer screws for fastening.

The problem is rather psychological - it’s a shame to drill into a plastered surface.

When choosing a sequence (before or after plastering), one nuance should be taken into account: if the edge of the installed socket boxes protrudes above the plane of the wall, how will you apply the plaster evenly?

That's why, best option: drill niches, then plaster the walls (there will be holes for sockets with uneven edges), and then carefully clean the edges of the holes. Before installing the socket boxes, you will have to restore the markings.

Simple advice for beginning craftsmen: To prevent alabaster or plaster from hardening too quickly, add PVA glue to the water. After mixing, the solution takes 2–3 times longer to crystallize.

True, you will have to wait several hours for final drying. But the mixture will be many times stronger.