Installation of plasterboard on a ceiling with a two-level frame. Two-level ceiling: how to make a suspended structure. DIY two-level suspended ceiling

When you look at such an impressive ceiling structure, as in the photo below, it seems that only experienced specialists can cope with such complex architecture: the triumph of nonlinearity, inventive zonal lighting, skillfully emphasized accents in the visual appearance of the room. In reality, everything turns out much simpler: anyone can make such a two-level plasterboard ceiling with their own hands. Of course, this will require time, patience, appropriate tools and materials. And also our step-by-step instructions, revealing all the secrets of successful and high-quality installation a two-level ceiling, even to a person who has never seen drywall in the eyes.

General characteristics and selection of material

Drywall is a compressed gypsum sheet, formed into a sheet and wrapped with facing cardboard.

It has been successfully used in construction and decoration for more than 100 years, although it has only reached its peak of popularity today. The reason for such a belated turn to a very convenient and inexpensive finishing material lies on the surface: the active development of the entire industry - and as a consequence of this, an excellent offer on the market that allows you to choose plasterboard sheets required characteristics and color solutions.

"breathable" material;
environmentally friendly;
not flammable;
Maintains a normal level of humidity in the room for humans.

The main disadvantage of plasterboard sheets is that poor moisture resistance. Moreover, there are gypsum board sheets on sale with a “pumped” moisture resistance indicator - they come, as a rule, in green or blue - but even in this case, drywall is not recommended for use on outdoors. In addition, it is afraid of sub-zero temperatures and is fragile.

The range of uses for plasterboard is wide, but ceilings occupy a key place in it.

Buy required material in order to make a two-level plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, only in words it seems like an elementary task. First you need to find out which of the existing types is best suited specifically for your renovation. This is determined functional purpose premises:

what is the humidity level in it;
how high is the level of fire danger;
frequency of temperature changes;
lower and upper temperature threshold.

How to choose the right plasterboard sheets in order to make a two-level plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, our table will tell you, in which, next to each type of plasterboard, a recommendation is given on the conditions of use.

Drywall type	Color	Purpose
Regular plasterboard	Grey	For interior decoration in rooms with normal and low humidity conditions
Moisture-resistant gypsum plasterboard	Green	For interior decoration in rooms with dry, normal, wet and wet humidity conditions
With increased resistance to open fire GKLO	Grey/Pink	For interior decoration in fire hazardous areas
Moisture-resistant with increased open flame resistance GKLVO	Green	For interior decoration in fire hazardous areas with high humidity

Also, when selecting material for installing a two-level ceiling, pay attention to the following points:

dimensions (most often 250 cm in length and 120 cm in width);
type of side edge (straight, thinned, semicircular, rounded);
sheet thickness (no more than 9.5 mm).

The dimensions indicated are standard, but you can always order sheets made to order. In this case, you will have to wait, but installing a two-level ceiling will be much more convenient and easier. As for the choice of type side edge, then again, for purely practical reasons, the choice of a semicircular or thinned edge seems optimal: less time needs to be spent on post-processing.

The most popular manufacturers:

Knauf (Germany);
Gyproc (Finland);
Lafarge (France);
Rigips (Austria);
JSC "Gips" (Russia).

Required tools and materials

You won’t be able to limit yourself to buying just plasterboard if you want to make a two-level plasterboard ceiling with your own hands correctly. After all, to secure the purchased sheets, you will first need to build frame, and no one canceled the finishing treatment. Let's look at those tools that can be safely called a “must have” for work on installing a two-level ceiling:

metal scissors;
screwdriver with drill;
knife;
hacksaw;
square;
roulette;
laser level;
spatulas;
protective gloves;
protective glasses;
pencil;
pliers;
painting thread;
Serpyanka mounting tape;
ladder.

In the video below experienced master very convincingly talks about why each of the tools we mentioned is just as necessary in the work of installing a two-level ceiling, as is fuel for the full functioning of your car.

And of course Consumables, without which your tools will never be able to prove their usefulness:

guide profile UD;
CD ceiling profile;
crab connectors;
ceiling suspensions are straight or spring (at a distance from concrete base more than 120 mm);
extensions for the profile (where the width of the room is greater than the usual length of the profile);
dowels;
screws 25-35 mm;
primer;
putty;
painting mesh.

A very interesting video that will help you choose the right individual consumables for installing a two-level ceiling from the list above.

pay attention to profile sizes and their purpose is shown in the image below.

Calculating the amount of consumables needed

gypsum board sheets - divide the width of the room by the length of the sheet, add 5% to the resulting number - the required margin - and round to a whole number, add the amount that is necessary to use the second level;
guide profiles- again we take into account the width of the room, as well as the length of the profile; after dividing the first number by the second and subsequent rounding, we obtain the whole number of elements we need.

In order to accurately determine the quantity of certain consumables for installing a two-level ceiling, in particular, self-tapping screws, remember that for each fixed “crab” you need at least 8 screws , and each ceiling suspension unit needs in 6 screws . Also remember about the step that is followed when installing the sheathing for a two-level ceiling. It amounts to minimum 50 centimeters .

Preparing the room and concrete base

remove the remains of the previous one finishing material from a concrete ceiling base: be sure to clean it of crumbling plaster and treat it with an antiseptic to prevent the occurrence of fungus or mold;
if there are cracks on the base, then seal them with putty on cement based, and then prime;
purchased gypsum board sheets for adaptation to temperature conditions keep the premises for several days - it is best if they are in a horizontal position;
try to free up the room as much as possible - remove the furniture, and if this is impossible to do due to its size, then cover it with film for protection;
Safety is a priority that must always be adhered to, so adjust your workplace to achieve the maximum level of comfort, prepare safety glasses, gloves, and check the serviceability of the stepladder.

And, of course, you can’t do this without additional help, so make an agreement with someone in advance - otherwise it will be very problematic to install a two-level plasterboard ceiling with your own hands.

Room layout

The first action you must perform is to correctly mark the room so that in the future you can build an even and reliable frame for a two-level ceiling. To do this you will need a pencil, painting thread, and a laser level. If you decide to make a two-level plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, then at this stage you should already have a drawn up project with clear markings of levels. All that remains for you is to transfer ideas from paper to the rough ceiling.

determine the height of the room in 4 corners, if the results differ - and this happens very often - take the corner with the lowest height as a starting point and make a mark on it;
with help laser level We make similar marks in the other three corners and use paint thread to mark a line around the perimeter of the entire room;
your markup is ready.

It is best to immediately complete the markings for the next level - this way you can know exactly how much material you will need, and also complete the work much faster. Decide what a two-level ceiling will look like:

linear;
arcuate;
ragged.

After this, draw a line on the base of the two-level ceiling that will highlight the second level.

Installation of the 1st level frame

we install guide UD profiles - they are fixed on the wall at the level that you marked with painting thread, with an optimal fastening step of 60 centimeters;
We fix ceiling hangers to the points marked on the base ceiling base with the same recommended step of 60 centimeters;
insert the prepared ceiling CD profile and securely fix it with a suspension;
in the end you should end up with such a simple but very practical frame;
To prevent it from sagging, we use crab connectors - the structure will become much more stable.

The entire process of installing a first-level frame for a two-level plasterboard ceiling with your own hands is shown in the photo below.

Sheathing the 1st level frame with plasterboard

Let's get to the most interesting and important. Although, in principle, all stages of installation are equally important, the contours of our future base of a two-level ceiling are already clearly visible.

we fix the drywall on the profiles using a screwdriver and self-tapping screws; their caps should go deep, but not excessively, to prevent damage to the material;
the correct sequence is the first sheet from the corner, on opposite side- next;
observe the spacing of the screws - no more than 15 cm;
in the places where the lamps are located, make required holes and stretch the wiring;
It is not necessary to attach drywall at the location of the second level of the ceiling, but remember that it should extend into it by about 10-15 centimeters.

Installation of the 2nd level frame

we draw lines on the drywall that will help to correctly place the UD profiles;
we fix the pre-rounded UD profile on the wall and ceiling - to give it the desired shape, it is necessary to make notches;
we cut off the necessary fragments of the CD profile and insert the flat side into the already mounted UD profile, fasten them in increments of 50-60 cm for linear segments and 20-30 cm for round ones;
if some pieces stick out, you should cover them with a UD profile.

Sheathing the 2nd level frame with plasterboard

Most often, a two-level plasterboard ceiling, if you do it yourself, causes difficulties at the stage of covering the second level. Largely due to the fact that the material must be rounded in order to be fixed to the arched structure. Despite the apparent simplicity of the manipulations involved, very often there are sad cases of damage to sheets. To do this, in order to eliminate such an annoying possibility, it is necessary to make notches on the sheet itself - only carefully so as not to damage the front part, lined with cardboard.

complex arches require tedious segmentation - cutting out a number of fragments and their subsequent installation to the profile;
do not forget to make holes for the lamps, if you plan to use them, and route the wiring under them.

Finishing the ceiling

So we have come to the final part of installing a two-level plasterboard ceiling with our own hands. Finishing will not cause you any difficulties: this is a fairly simple stage designed to make the installed ceilings as presentable and impressive as possible.

seal the seams with sickle tape;
take a narrow spatula and apply putty along each taped tape;
carefully cover all the screws with putty so that the rust on their heads is not visible afterwards;
treat the entire surface with a primer;
We carry out finishing decoration - whitewashing, painting.

As a result, you should get a beautiful two-level ceiling with a harmoniously executed arch or with complex geometry with the majority of truncated fragments. Isn't this what you dreamed about when you started this tedious (or not so tedious?) editing?

A selection of videos on installation and finishing

It is better to study the installation features and, accordingly, to make a two-level plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, some of the videos below will help you correctly.

Photo gallery of the most popular options

Take a look at what nice options come out when people decide to make a two-level plasterboard ceiling with their own hands - and approach their work responsibly and creatively.

Conclusion

Of course, making a two-level plasterboard ceiling with your own hands seems like a challenge for every man. Compared to conventional single-level ceilings, a two-level design requires much more time and a certain amount of patience, because you have to work not only with simple linear boxes, but also with interesting arc-shaped structures (read the instructions for installing single-level plasterboard ceilings in the article: "

Today, suspended and suspended ceilings are at the peak of their popularity. Simplicity of design, modern technologies in construction and the imagination of designers provided almost unlimited possibilities for their application. Most often you can find a conventional single-level structure in which lighting fixtures are mounted. But to really create unusual ceiling, you need to pay attention to two-level ceilings. Of course, creating them will require good skills as a builder and designer, but a do-it-yourself two-level ceiling is a doable task for anyone who knows how to use a tool.

Preparatory work

First of all, it is necessary to ensure free access and movement in the room. To do this, you will either have to remove all the furniture from the room or arrange it so that it does not interfere. Secondly, you should pay attention to the surface of the ceiling. After all, the amount of effort applied during installation of the structure and the reliability of its fastening will depend on how smooth and solid it is. Thirdly, it is necessary to calculate the required materials, and for this you will have to create a design diagram for a two-level ceiling. The fourth important point in preparation is electrical wiring, the wiring diagram and wiring of which must be thought out in advance.

Before making a two-level ceiling, we conduct a thorough inspection of the ceiling surface for integrity. To do this, we completely remove the old finish right down to the ceiling or old plaster. If there are no cracks or peeling areas on the plastered surface, you can begin finishing with putty. If deep cracks are visible on the ceiling, and a dull sound is heard when tapping, you will have to completely clean the damaged area right up to the ceiling. Then apply a deep penetration primer and seal again. plaster mixture. If damage is more than 30% of total area It is better to re-plaster the ceiling surface. It also makes sense to do full-fledged ceiling plaster in case of large differences and unevenness. But if the level of differences does not exceed 10 mm, for leveling it will be enough to simply putty the ceiling in several layers using a painting mesh. After the freshly plastered and puttied ceiling is completely dry, you can begin further work.

Calculation and diagram of a two-level ceiling

This stage of preparatory work is the most difficult and requires engineering and design skills from the master. Firstly, it is necessary to draw at least approximately what the two-level ceiling will be like, where there will be hidden niches and protruding structural elements, as well as the locations lighting fixtures. If it is difficult to draw such a project yourself, then you can use one of the ready-made options for two-level ceilings:

When the design project is ready, you can begin to create a diagram of the structure itself and calculate the necessary materials. You can do this as follows:

We measure the width and length of the room and calculate the perimeter. For example, let's take a room with a length of 5 m and a width of 3 m. P = (5 + 3) * 2 = 16 linear meters. The result obtained is the length of the guide profile (UD). For a two-level ceiling, the length of the guide profile will have to be doubled, since you will have to make a second guide contour for the second level.

Important! If, after measuring the room, you find that the walls located opposite each other have different lengths, you need to use a larger value for calculations.

Now we calculate the required amount of frame profile (CD). The frame profile itself will be attached in increments of 600 mm, and the length of its slats will be equal to the width of the room. 5000/600 = 8.3 rounded to the nearest whole and we get 8 frame profile strips, 3 m each.

Important! The pitch of the frame profile of 600 mm was chosen based on the standard dimensions of the gypsum board. The sheets are available in widths of 600 and 1200 mm, and when installing them, it is necessary to ensure that the edges of the sheets lie clearly on the profile. The length of the gypsum board is also standardized, but for suspended ceilings a sheet 2500 mm long is perfect.

Knowing the number of frame profile slats, you can begin to calculate the direct hangers on which the slats will be attached. The mounting step for the hangers is 600 mm, but the first hangers from the walls along the guide are attached at a distance of 300 mm. Based on this, we get (3000/600)*8=40 pieces of hangers for attaching the frame profile.

To make the structure of a two-level ceiling more durable, it is necessary to additionally install jumpers between the main frame profiles and connectors for them (crabs). First of all, we calculate the number of crabs. The spacing of their fastening is 600 - 650 mm. (3000/600)*8=40 pcs. crabs Based on this, we get 5 rows of jumpers, each length will be 5000 mm.

Important! The distance from the walls for lintels and crabs should be selected based on the size of the second level. For example, if the width of the second level is 500 mm and hidden lighting is planned, then the first and last jumpers will be mounted at a distance of 400 mm from the wall.

Having completed all the calculations for the first level, we proceed to the second. At this stage everything is somewhat simpler. So for the second level jumpers you will need 18 pieces of CD profile 400 mm each and another 4 1000 mm each for corner connections. Also, to attach these jumpers, you will need 22 hangers.

Important! Direct hangers can be used if the height of the two-level ceiling is no more than 120 mm.

To give the structure strength and to have a place to attach vertical plasterboard sheets that hide the frame of the structure, you will need racks from the CD profile. The number of racks is equal to the number of jumpers for the second level - 22 pcs. We choose the size based on the design features of the ceiling. The fact is that the second level can be mounted as to the main one load-bearing structure, and directly to the ceiling.

It remains to calculate the number of sheets of drywall. Everything here is extremely simple. All sheets have standard sizes, and for installation in residential premises it is most convenient to use a sheet of 2500x1200 or 2500x600. Therefore, we measure the area of the first level of the ceiling along the edges of the profile and divide it by the area of one sheet, the result obtained is the required number of sheets. For the second level, we carry out the calculation in a similar way, only we should take into account the protruding edge and the vertical strips hiding the structure. When choosing plasterboard sheets, opt for sheets with a thickness of 9.5 mm. They are optimally suited in terms of weight and strength for suspended ceilings.

Important! For some options for a two-level ceiling, a structure is created only around the perimeter of the room, and the middle is left free. Such two-level ceilings allow you to save on materials and also make it possible to install suspended ceiling or decorate the ceiling surface in some other way.

Wiring diagram

First, you will need to outline the location of all lighting fixtures, and then calculate the power consumption of all fixtures and the length of the wires. Based on the data obtained, a wire of the required cross-section is purchased. In addition to the wires, you will also need a corrugation, mounting box or cable duct. The good thing about corrugation is that it can be thrown directly across the entire ceiling structure, while the cable duct and ducts will have to be attached to the wall around the perimeter.

All of the above materials will need to be securely and firmly fastened to each other, to the ceiling and walls. To do this, you will have to purchase a large number of different screws, anchors and dowels. Of the variety of fasteners, it is recommended to use the following screws and dowels:

for fastening to the wall and ceiling with dowels and screws 6x40 mm or 6x60 mm, fastening pitch 300 mm;
to connect the hangers and the profile, the crabs and the profile, use a self-tapping screw LN 9, LN 11 or LB 9, LB 11;
The plasterboard sheets are fastened with MN 25 and MN 30 self-tapping screws in increments of 250 mm.

Important! To fasten the crab, 4 screws are used, and 2 screws are used to connect the suspension and profile. It is better to carry out all installation work with two partners.

DIY two-level suspended ceiling

You can write a whole scientific report on how to make two-level ceilings, listing all kinds of structures and options for their fastening. Within the framework of this article, we consider one of the common options for a two-level suspended ceiling for making it yourself. If the need arises to create a more complex design, you will have to turn to specialists or more professional literature. So, in order to bring to life the previously drawn project of a two-level ceiling, you need to do the following:

After we have leveled the surface of the ceiling, take a ruler or tape measure and measure the height of the two-level ceiling without the thickness of the plasterboard sheet. We put 3 - 4 marks on one wall and connect them using painting thread, after which by pulling and releasing the thread, we get a clear line - the base level of the future ceiling.

We apply markings to the ceiling for the CD frame profile. We use the same markings for the hangers to which the profile will be attached. We measure the required distance from the walls, put 3 - 4 marks and connect them using painting thread. Then, in increments of 600 mm, we set marks for the other profile strips.

Now we take the UD guide profile and drill holes in it for fastening in increments of 300 mm. We attach the profile to the wall so that its lower edge is strictly along the intended line, and using a bumper we mark the places for the dowels. After this, we take a hammer drill and drill holes and drive the dowels inside. We reapply the profile and screw it to the wall.

Important! Scope of screwing work various screws and the screws are quite large, so we strongly recommend using a screwdriver.

We attach the suspension to the ceiling and use a hammer drill to drill out a place for the fasteners. You can make one or two holes. Here everything depends on the desire to make the structure more reliable. Having drilled holes for each hanger, drive the dowels inside and screw the hangers.

Important! When drilling holes for hangers, you need to make sure that the intended line is strictly perpendicular to the hanger and runs clearly in the center.

It’s time to fix the CD frame profile for the first ceiling level. We bend the ends of the hangers like the letter “P” so that the width of the profile passes freely inside. There are holes on the hangers that allow you to adjust the height of the ceiling, so you should determine in advance which holes the screws will be screwed into in order to obtain the required height of the first level. To securely connect the suspension to the profile, 2 screws are enough, one on each side.

As soon as the frame profile strips are secured, we take a tape measure and mark on the ceiling where the crabs will be installed to connect the transverse profile strips. After that, we install the crabs themselves. They are placed over the profile with the tendrils downwards and, under force, firmly snap into place inside the profile, and then fixed to the profile with screws.

All that remains is to install the jumpers for the frame. But first you will have to pick up a grinder or metal scissors and cut the required number of jumpers from a CD profile of a certain size. Having done this, we put the jumper in place. To do this, we place it from below under the crab and, pressing it against it, snap it into place, after which we fix the crab and the jumper with 2 screws.

Now we begin to install the frame for the second level. In fact, all the work is similar to that for the first level frame. The difference is this:

First, the CD profile is inserted into the UD guides and secured to the suspension. After which it is also fixed to the guide profile with 2 screws;

to impart rigidity to the structure, all second-level CD profile strips are connected to each other along the perimeter using a UD profile and fixed with 1 screw;

To secure vertically standing pieces of drywall, we connect the profile of the second and first levels vertically with a jumper from the CD profile. They are installed above each of the horizontal strips of the CD profile of the second level;

Having completed the installation of the frame, you can begin installing the electrical wiring. To do this, we either lay a corrugated wire directly from the installation location of the lighting fixture to the point of connection to the network, or we attach a cable channel to the wall and lay the wire along it. When installing the wire, the main thing is to make a margin of 10 - 15 cm to extend it beyond the ceiling structure and conveniently connect the lighting;

Now we fix the sheets of drywall. We begin their installation from the first level. To give reliability to the ceiling, we fasten them apart and fix them to the profile, which is screwed to the ceiling with hangers. For fastening we use special self-tapping screws, which we screw in at 250 mm increments;

Having finished with the first level, we proceed to the second. Here you will have to carefully trim the sheets so that they exactly match the length of the profiles. The cutting process itself is quite simple - we cut cardboard on one side of the sheet for the ruler, then carefully break it and cut through the other side. If necessary, we trim it with a special plane, and then screw it to the profile;

to hide the internal structures, we fix vertical pieces of drywall between the second and first levels, screwing them to vertical posts profile. If the second level has a broken or curved contour, then a strip is cut out of a sheet of drywall, then soaked in water, the drywall will become soft and pliable. Bending it to fit the shape of the gap, we apply it and secure it.

To complete the installation of the two-level ceiling, we drill holes for lighting in the designated areas. We glue a small plasterboard border to the edge of the protruding part of the sheet, behind which the lighting will be hidden, after which we prime and putty all the joints between the sheets. Once the ceiling surface is dry, you can apply the final finish and connect the lighting fixtures.

Video: how to make a two-level ceiling

Do-it-yourself two-level stretch ceiling

Creating such a ceiling will be somewhat simpler compared to the above-described version of a two-level ceiling. First of all, this will concern the type of supporting structure and the amount of materials for its creation. Otherwise, installation is almost identical to a conventional suspended ceiling. But before you make a two-level stretch ceiling, you will have to make a new design project and recalculate the materials. The key difference between a two-level stretch ceiling is that the suspended structure made of plasterboard sheets is located around the perimeter of the room. And the center of the room is allocated for tensioning the canvas. To install a two-level stretch ceiling, you must do the following:

mark and mount plasterboard construction on one level around the perimeter of the room. All work is similar to those previously described for the installation of a two-level suspended ceiling;
We attach a special profile to the structure at a certain height to tension the web;
Using a heat gun, we heat the room and the canvas. Then we proceed to tension it;

First of all, we fix two diagonally opposite corners, then we fix the third corner and the fourth. We stretch the ceiling canvas along the perimeter, first on one side, then on the opposite;
Finally, we connect the lighting fixtures.

DIY two-level stretch ceiling: video

Creating multi-level ceiling structures is quite labor-intensive work that requires increased attention and understanding the process. The difficulty of execution lies in the coordination of the actions of two or three partners. But for a well-coordinated team, creating a two-level ceiling will not be difficult.

Indoor renovations don't come without costing time, money, and headaches. The ceiling is important detail finishing works. The two-tier ceiling has several variations; one of the more affordable and aesthetically attractive is a multi-level plasterboard ceiling with lighting - it will be the main accent of the room. Also a plus low cost installation time, and the process itself takes place without a lot of debris and dirt. The most important thing is freedom for the artist, you can choose completely different shapes and colors, and water resistance is also ensured in case of a flood from your neighbors. Even if such a nuisance occurs, you just need to drain the water from the structure, preferably with the help of a specialist. If unevenness, cracks and other incidents remain during work, the finishing will mask all the imperfections

The only disadvantage can be considered the dust emitted upon contact with human health, which is harmful to human health. plasterboard sheets. Generally double ceiling it will look very impressive and become the main decoration of the interior, and a backlit solution will add sophistication.

What is this article about?

Ceiling options

If the main ceiling has an ideal appearance and no unevenness, and you just need to divide the rooms into zones and hide the cables, then an island box is installed in the central block or along the perimeter. In the case of an uneven ceiling surface, the method of installing 2 plasterboard tiers is suitable. Initially, the base area is set plasterboard ceiling, and the parts of the next level need to be hemmed under the original frame. Or attach a guide profile for the main surface of the ceiling to the side of the mounted box. Also, the second level box can be oval or round; in general, you can choose any shape to suit your imagination. The final finish should look something like this.

Preparatory processes

Before work, existing chandeliers are removed, and if there are large irregularities, they must be eliminated. To start working on the ceiling, there must be a design project, a small copy of the ceiling on paper, which, in addition to the appearance, should also contain diagrams for the placement of lamps, and you also need to take into account the location of the curtains. It is very important to respect the ceiling proportions and scale. Lined paper is ideal for a sketch; this will be a lightweight option for transferring reference points - the starting points of the contours of bends or corners, from which the rest of the details and elements of the ceiling will actually begin to be built.

It’s worth picking up all the necessary tools in advance:

drill;
hammer;
putty knife;
screwdriver;
metal knife;
plasterboard knife;
construction level;
upholstery cord;
construction thread;
roulette;
pencil;
profiles;
pendants;
knitting needles;
drywall;
connecting fasteners and assemblies;
details electrical installation work(lights, LED lamps, neon tubes or cords, etc.).

You can look at the cost diagram for 1 sq.m. and calculate it for your perimeter.

Ceiling markings

It is worth paying attention to this important stage Special attention, and do everything carefully. It is necessary to set aside the distance from the lowest corner, moving down, the distance should correspond to the distance to the lowest level of the ceiling.

Using a water level, transfer the mark to all existing internal and external corners rooms and use the upholstery to draw lines between them.

Rub the cord with dark powder and beat it diagonally. Mark the center of the room, compensating for any unevenness in the ceiling and walls. Draw lines longitudinal to the hidden edges of the second tier. Draw a grid for suspensions of the 1st tier in the inner perimeter of the boxes, that is, place marks - each 50 cm from each other along the longitudinal boundaries of the return two lines. On the remaining lines, place points 60 cm apart. There should be a right angle at the intersection of all lines.

An ideal solution for marking would be a laser projector; it is easy to use - placing it in the middle of the room, a 600 mm grid structure is installed, and the resulting grid can be immediately drawn on the surface. Next, you need to drive self-tapping screws into the base ceiling in the center of the circles; they are outlined using a pencil along the slats with the required length. A cardboard template is also prepared in advance to draw out the curved elements.

Types of lighting

Lighting in the ceiling is part of the decoration, giving an elegant look and an interesting detail, but it cannot be considered as lighting on its own, since it will not give the desired lighting effect. Central lighting in the form of luminaires and lamps should be taken care of separately. The most popular lighting sources in backlighting include neon tubes, LED strips and duralight. The last two are LEDs mounted one behind the other. Their plus is the power supply - 12 V or 24 V. You can also choose tapes with a monochrome glow of red, blue, green or white. They are usually referred to as SMD or RGB all-rounders. Station wagons can change color; monochrome ones have only one color. RGB work with the controller and remote control.

LED lamps are divided into the following types: regular, moisture-proof, and moisture-resistant. Conventional ones are only suitable for dry rooms, as they come without protective coating. Waterproof ones have a varnished surface and are suitable for wet rooms. Moisture-resistant ones are sealed into a polymer pipe or housing; it is better to use them in objects with high moisture - aquariums, swimming pools, etc. So the type of lamps is selected according to the type of room. The advantages of LED lamps are economically low energy consumption, durability, ease of installation, reasonable price and resistance to overheating.

Neon tubes are filled with a mixture of inert and luminous gases. Their brightness depends on the current strength regulated by the convector

Their power is greater - 100 V, installation takes place every 5 m. And also a lot of electricity will be required to install transformers, since neon does not have enough normal voltage. Compared to neon tubes, neon cords look much more advantageous. Powered by AA batteries and a controller included in pairs - these are the main advantages. But the lack of power does not allow them to illuminate independently, so it is better to use them in conjunction with LEDs, or to illuminate some interior details.

The device of the backlight box and its assembly

I would like to immediately show a video explaining this process in detail:

You will need a couple of profiles - UD and CD. UD is a guide profile mounted both on the wall and on the ceiling, as well as at the fastening point of the side, if it is present in the center of the structure. CD is a more rigid, load-bearing profile from which the lintels and racks are created; the plasterboard sheet is attached to them.

In the photo shown, the gypsum board holds the suspension due to its rigidity, so the shelf does not have any support as such.

In such cases, the weight of the lighting equipment is taken into account.

There is another type of design. Here the elongated crossbars hold the extension of the shelf. This design will require more supporting profile, and in terms of reliability it will be much stronger.

To assemble the box, you need to secure the guide profiles along the contours on the wall, the internal boundaries of the second tier and along the ceiling. Next, cut out pieces of the CD profile with a small “sponge” on one side; this must be done by measuring the distance from the profile on the ceiling to the level of the contours on the walls, and subtract about one and a half centimeters from this. Insert the resulting pieces into the profile, screwing approximately every 50 cm.

Screw the guide profile to the “sponge”, the sharp part of which is turned towards the wall, along the bottom of the suspended profiles so that the guides are connected by pieces of the supporting profile. Then you should cut the CD profile according to required length and insert into the guides, then screw. Cover the side edge of the frame with plasterboard material. Do the same with the bottom plane. The work with the boxes is completed. When working with boxes, it is worth considering in advance the installation points of the lamps and the location of the wires. To make the frame more rigid and the sheet firmly fixed, then the middle of the pieces of the supporting profile is fixed on a suspension, or when the box is more than 50 cm wide.

Installation of suspension profiles

Fix the plasterboard sheets in the center by hanging corners and crosses. Make a skeleton to which the drywall will be attached. Such fittings can be used for profile ties.

Installation is carried out according to this principle - fastening the profiles to each other during plasterboard installation, and to the ceiling. With the legs down and in a top-down position, screw the U-shaped profile where the drywall lies perpendicular to the ceiling surface. Insert and secure the lowering rates into the profile groove, then secure the U-shaped profile in the same way as in the previous case, but the legs should be directed towards the wall, and where the lower profile wall insert is cut to the highest shelf of the U - letter, and curved upward, the lower profile is fixed .

Then it is fixed around the perimeter of the P-profile, the legs should be away from the wall.

Then the lower level guides, which are necessary for drywall, are attached.

The gap between them should be about 50 cm.

Leave space when installing the skeleton to install the string in the opening for the cornice or curtain.

Then, using scissors, make artistic curves; to do this, cut out about 5 cm of the P-legs to the top shelf at equal intervals.

Attach the lower profile mesh to spare hangers.

Attach plasterboard sheets to the lowest level of the ceiling surface. Cut special openings for the lamps.

Do the same by securing the plasterboard structure to the side rails. Then secure the corners along the perpendicular edges of the lower ceiling and the vertical inner wall. Putty the joints.

After drying, choose either putty or primer and paint the ceiling. Then the lamps are inserted into the holes under them and the strings are pulled under the curtains. The finish is to paint the ceiling according to your choice and taste.

Assembling the ceiling with your own hands will not be difficult if you study everything in detail, and the double ceiling will become the main decoration of the room.

In this article you will find information on how to make a two-level ceiling with your own hands. We will also consider the necessary parts for the job and tips for saving money. You can find out where to buy drywall and other sheet materials.

They say that a successful home renovation starts from the ceiling. There is part of the truth in this, because a beautiful and original ceiling will business card rooms, giving it unique design and comfort.

The so-called two-level plasterboard ceilings, which you can easily make with your own hands, have become fashionable. This decorative element is very original and allows the owner to experiment with the sketch himself during repair work and installation. You can mount a two-level plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, personally inventing a unique shape and designer look ceiling.

The ceiling can be installed in the kitchen and living room, bedroom and bathroom. Using a simple diagram you can understand how to make a ceiling in a garage.

And thanks to the minimum of details, more and more men began to become interested in how to make a plasterboard ceiling with their own hands. This is a great way to spend modern renovation without extra costs for the work of a craftsman or designer, coming up with a sketch and turning it into reality.

After reading the detailed instructions for installing a two-level plasterboard ceiling, it will become clear that it is possible to create beauty yourself. Our tips and tricky secrets on the technology of assembling a two-level plasterboard ceiling will be understood by beginners and experienced craftsmen.

Before starting work, determine a few points and prepare a work plan. It is possible for even one person to install a two-level plasterboard ceiling with their own hands, but before starting the installation you need to prepare.

At the start, determine the essential nuances:

Where will the installation take place? Having decided on the room that will be renovated, take into account all the characteristics and methods of operation. For example, if this is a kitchen, then it will be hot there while cooking, and air and oil vapors will rise up.

If this is a bathroom renovation, then you should pay special attention to damp and warm air. This way you can accurately and correctly select the drywall needed for the job: moisture-resistant, very durable or with washing properties, thick and strong or light and thin.

Practice sketching techniques, because before actual installation it is better to draw everything on paper and prepare drawings for necessary details. Transfer the entire projection directly to the ceiling. On the sketches, mark the location of the lamps or color transitions.

Before installing the ceiling and purchasing materials, select the type of frame on which the drywall will be attached. Most often, the material for fastening is wooden blocks (cheap and cheerful) or metallic profile(stable, easy to install, flexible and pliable).

The most popular view plasterboard, which is used for installation of almost any ceilings, is considered plasterboard with a width of 9.5 millimeters. To fix it and reliable operation Self-tapping screws 25 millimeters long are optimal.

Note! Gypsum plasterboard ceiling sheet (gypsum plasterboard), despite its thickness and strength, can crumble and break, so be extremely careful when cutting out parts. Work with self-tapping screws carefully - if you press them a little harder on the drywall, it may crack on the ceiling, and dismantling the material will take a lot of effort.

Before preparing to install drywall, clear the ceiling of lamps, fixtures, decor, wires, and cables. When assembling the frame, remember the safety rules.

Two-level plasterboard ceiling - instructions step by step

To properly install a two-level plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, you need to prepare for the process. We will try to prove that making a two-level plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, without resorting to the services of a specialist, is simple. Even the most simple circuit Installing a two-tier plasterboard ceiling will help you save time and money.

The step-by-step instructions look like this:

Step 1 – design

Decide on the design, type of ceiling and design it on paper. Then transfer the lines and contours to the ceiling in real sizes. Draw lines until all points, straight lines and curves are straight.

Step 2 – we begin to install the frame

Outline the marks and begin installing the frame from a metal profile or wooden blocks. If you are making a frame from metal, then you need to make cuts on the guide elements with metal scissors. The interval of cuts is 10-15 centimeters. In further work, you will bend the cuts in order to give the ceiling the desired shape. This will make working with metal at height much easier.

Note! It is best to work with metal in protective clothing, gloves and goggles - this way you will reduce the chance of getting hurt during work.

Step 3 – fix the profile

Fix the finished guide metal profile with self-tapping screws on the ceiling. Make sure that you move in the direction of the drawn lines and do not go beyond the boundaries.

On video: instructions for installing a frame for a two-level ceiling from a profile

Note! Before fixing the first parts of the ceiling, it is important to determine what material the ceiling in the house is made of. If it is concrete, then you need to insert dowels into the metal profile. And if the ceiling is made of covered wood, then the guide profile must be secured with self-tapping screws into the beams.

Step 4 – fix the side strip

To the attached profile, cut and attach the side strip of the wall of the future two-level ceiling. Remember that the selected width for this strip will then determine the overall vertical size of the entire structure. The width of the strip will depend on the height of your room and how low you want to lower the ceiling.

Step 5 – installing drywall

Continue installing the drywall strips, checking their stability. Make sure that all the elements fit well and tightly to each other and that there are no gaps or cracks anywhere. Drive the screws tightly into the cardboard so that the caps press the material and do not stick out higher.

Step 6 – we trim the front part

Continue installing the plasterboard strips until the sheathing of the front part of the ceiling is completed. Check the quality of your work and complete the nuances.

Step 7 – install the second line

The next step is to install the second line from the guide profile on the lower edge of the first fixed strip. We carry out the installation in the same way as on the first line.

Advice! A screwdriver is suitable for attaching screws. Screw the screws in completely at intervals of 15 centimeters so that the ceiling holds and does not sag.

Step 8 – move on to the second half of the ceiling

Carry out similar work on fastening the frame on the other half of the ceiling.

Note! To accurately check that the lines and guides are straight and parallel, use a level in your work. It will show the percentage of deviation and you can correct the shortcomings.

Step 9 – strengthen the frame

When the installation of the lines is completed, you need to strengthen the frame. This can be done using support profiles. The distance between each straight line of the supporting profile should be up to half a meter.

Note! when marking reference lines, take into account the junction of two plasterboard boards. There must be a jumper at the junction.

Step 10 – installation and calculation of jumpers

Additional strength of the frame under drywall can be achieved by installing metal hangers. All jumpers must run perpendicular to the wall and parallel to each other. To check this, use a level. If somewhere it does not match or is not secured, check in the same way as whether the guide profile is installed.

Determining the required number of hangers is easy. If the width of your plasterboard ceiling is up to 60 centimeters, then it will be enough to place one suspension on each transverse profile. If the width is more than 60 centimeters, then two hangers must be mounted on each lintel.

When all these frame installation processes are completed, make sure once again that all metal elements are well secured and aligned at the same level. After this, you can begin the second part of the work - sheathing metal frame drywall.

Fastening drywall

You have learned how to assemble the frame, now attach drywall to the metal. The plasterboard sheets must be secured along all guide lines and ceiling profiles every 15 centimeters.

Advice! Before installing drywall sheets, cut the necessary parts along the lines and arcs. It is better to attach the drywall in parts, rather than trim it later in the canopy. If you did not guess exactly the size of the elements, then the crooked edges and protrusions can then be corrected using putty.

Note! The drywall sheet is quite heavy. It is best to carry out installation together, so that one person can at least help hold the drywall.

Before installing the last sheet of drywall, double-check all levels and joint locations. The work must be done extremely carefully.

In parallel with the installation of drywall, it is necessary to resolve the nuances of cable routing for equipment, communications and lighting. Place all the wires under the sheets, mark the installation locations for sockets or holes for fixtures and lamps. Also check if you have forgotten any tools or personal items above the drywall.

After installing the last sheet of drywall, check the level of all parts again and evaluate the quality of the work done. Align all edges and correct minor imperfections, making sure everything is attached well and securely. Everything needs to be leveled extremely carefully and accurately. That's all - now the room has a new plasterboard ceiling made by yourself.

The next step in the work. Secure the seams on the plasterboard ceiling with a special sickle tape and carefully putty. It is also necessary to cover the places where the screws are screwed in with putty. This is necessary so that the joints do not separate, and rust from the screws does not show through the paint over time.

Then you need to putty the entire space of the ceiling, rub the putty with special mesh and paint it in the desired color. If you don’t know how to paint a plasterboard ceiling, no problem, we can find a lot of tips on preparing for painting finished work or choose a coloring material.

The ceiling is the main component of any interior. Unlike other types of surfaces, it is always visible, so this finish must be perfect. The fashion for traditional plaster and whitewash has long passed; today, two-level plasterboard structures with lighting are extremely popular in ceiling design. They not only allow you to hide all defects in the base, but also give the room a beautiful look. Installing such ceilings is not particularly difficult, so every home owner can do it independently. To do this, you must first create an original sketch, then purchase the necessary building material.

Peculiarities

A two-level ceiling is a unique design that is created from two tiers of plasterboard. The installation of the decorative composition is carried out in such a way that it allows you to simultaneously hide not only all communication systems and electrical wiring, but also makes the coating even. In addition, when performing even the simplest renovation of an apartment, with the help of such ceilings you can rationally plan the room, visually dividing it into separate zones.

The only drawback of the structures is that they reduce the height of the space, so it is advisable to install them in spacious rooms. You can, of course, carry out such an installation in small rooms, but then you will need to use special design tricks: expand the boundaries of the room using light shades in the wall decoration and flooring.

Before installing two-level ceilings, you should consider the following features:

Humidity level. In the event that there is a constant temperature difference in the room and high humidity, then it is recommended to choose moisture-resistant drywall for work. You can also assemble the structure from ordinary sheets, but then they will have to be additionally treated with a protective primer.

Features of the room layout. Depending on the shape and size of the room, the appropriate ceiling model is selected. At the same time, we must not forget that installing a frame will reduce the height of the space by about 10 cm. To save height, you can simply install the second tier on a leveled surface.
Lighting system. Installation work should begin with a design that will indicate the placement of lighting fixtures. At this moment great attention must be paid, since the correct installation of fixtures and lamps will depend general form not only the hanging composition, but also the interior as a whole.

Kinds

Two-tier false ceilings are ideal for modern design. They look stylish and impressive indoors, creating an unusual atmosphere of comfort and warmth in the space.

Today there are many options for installing such structures, the most popular of which are:

Frame two-tier ceiling. It looks like a box with one step. Such compositions are usually chosen for rooms whose height exceeds 3 m, since the installation of a box is required free space 50 cm. The ceiling often has a shaped shape, and along its perimeter you can install either hidden lighting from LED lamps or spot lighting. Such designs also look beautiful, complemented in the center with large chandeliers. Thanks to the box structure, the corners of the room are well lit, and the interior turns out bright and interesting.

Diagonal. The structure of this composition is striking in its originality. The design diagram looks like this: the first level is attached, and then the second one, which protrudes to the side. In this case, the dividing line runs horizontally along one side, smoothly merging with the second tier; the distinction can be made using both straight and wavy lines. Thanks to its unusual shapes, the ceiling allows you to visually expand the space. For illumination in this case, multi-colored LED lamps are recommended, which can be combined with night flashlights.
Zonal. This type allows you to beautifully highlight a certain area of the room. The structure is fixed in such a way that it has the same level throughout the room, and a second tier is mounted above the area that needs to be emphasized. A similar system is chosen for living rooms and bedrooms, where it is necessary to delimit a workplace, a relaxation area and a sleep area. The ceiling is also well suited for combined rooms, the style of which provides for visual boundaries.

In addition to traditional types of suspended ceilings, complex two-level systems are also in great demand. In their structure, they are similar to the above models, but are complemented by a variety of patterns, shapes and complex decorative elements. Thanks to such designs, you can create an unforgettable and exotic interior. Typically, designers modern projects choose figured, abstract and soaring ceilings.

The figurative composition consists of two levels, which are installed in the form of plants, drawings, patterns or geometric shapes, while the first tier is the main one, and LEDs are attached to its edges. The result is a stunning effect; additional elements can be illuminated by spotlights. Such ceilings fit perfectly into any style, therefore they are considered universal. Most often they are chosen for Baroque and Empire style, in the design of which the presence of simple decor with clear lines. A good option are designs for minimalism and hi-tech, where rigor is presented in everything.

Floating ceilings deserve special attention among two-tier plasterboard structures. Their system is made suspended, LED lamps are installed along the contour, and the second level serves as decoration. In addition, this system creates a visual effect in which the ceiling looks weightless, “floating” in the air. Therefore, if the interior of a room needs to be filled with a magical atmosphere, best option Can't be found for decoration.

As for abstract ceilings, they are most suitable for those home owners who love unusual shapes. There are many design options for such structures, but modern design The most popular systems are those with a spiral second tier.

For the composition to acquire original look, when decorating it, it is best to use several colors; you can also make inserts with bright shades.

Lighting

A two-level plasterboard ceiling will look stylish if complemented with good lighting. You can install lighting devices yourself, as it is not particularly difficult. All you need to do for this is to first draw drawings of the placement of devices, and also choose the most suitable option for a lamp or luminaire.

Today, the following devices are most often chosen for installing lighting in two-tier systems:

Spotlights. They allow you to create both primary and additional lighting, beautifully highlighting individual areas in the room.
LED strips. They are used to illuminate the ceiling around the perimeter. The ribbons have a different color spectrum, so depending on the design of the room, you can choose ribbons that create light with different shades.

Preparation

Installation of a two-level plasterboard ceiling is carried out in stages, and construction work must be carried out correctly, in compliance with all installation technologies. In order for the structure to reliably serve for many years, the surface is prepared before attaching it, after which the frame can only be assembled. Therefore, first you need to check the surface of the coating, remove old plaster, carefully seal the cracks. When the rough finish is completely dry, the base is primed.

The next stage of preparation will be the selection of a frame design, according to which it will be possible to further assemble the structure.

As a rule, step-by-step instructions are used to make the frame, according to which the suspension system is assembled in two ways:

First of all, the first level system is installed, then the second tier is attached.
The second level is prepared, it is fixed on special hangers, after which the first tier is mounted.

Each of the above assembly technologies is good in its own way, but if installation work do it yourself, then its choice will depend on the skills and abilities of the novice master, as well as on the size and shape of the room. For example, for small rooms it is not recommended to use complex system ceilings, since due to the double structure the height of the room will be “cut off” and it will look bulky. As for rectangular rooms, then when choosing the placement of levels, you need to pay attention to the fact that the second tier should be smaller than the first.

Installation

After everything preparatory work completed, you can proceed to the actual installation two-level design. If you do the installation yourself, it is important to take the correct measurements by determining the zero point on the ceiling. To do this, you will need a water level with which you can draw lines. If you plan to make a system consisting of several geometric shapes, then a grid of lines must be applied along the entire perimeter of the ceiling. In this case, the distance between perpendicular lines should not exceed 60 cm; for parallel lines it is 50 cm.

Drywall sheets are also precisely measured; their parameters must fully correspond to the dimensions of the frame. Thus, the drywall is fixed at the edges and in the middle using self-tapping screws, and decorative figures are first made in the form of a cardboard template, after which they are transferred to the structure. Before covering the frame, it is necessary to lay all utilities, consisting of air conditioning, lighting and ventilation systems. They are attached directly to the ceiling to avoid damage when covering the frame. As for the wiring, it cannot be placed inside the profiles; the ends of the electrical wiring are led outside, where the fixtures will be mounted.

Fixing drywall sheets is done using special self-tapping screws. If the composition needs to be sheathed with curved and shaped parts, they are first treated with a solution and given the desired shape using a spiked roller. It will make a lot of holes, making the drywall sheet pliable and easy to bend. First, the sheets of the first tier are fastened, then they begin to install the blanks of the second level. If the ceiling area is large, then it is recommended to lay the plasterboard sheets in a checkerboard pattern, maintaining a distance between the plates of 40-50 cm, this way the material will be securely fixed and hold well.

In addition, you need to prepare holes for installing future lamps and fixtures. Since the electrical wiring was laid earlier, all that remains is to connect its ends to the lighting devices. Upon completion of installation, it is necessary to treat the screw heads with a special solution, and also putty the seams with a finishing mixture. After this, grouting, sanding and installation of lamps are done.

A plasterboard ceiling, consisting of two levels and lighting, is considered a complex structure, therefore, in order to install it correctly, you must first draw up sketches of the future composition, then assemble the system. Despite the fact that the installation process may seem difficult, it is quite possible to cope with it yourself.

For novice craftsmen, when installing two-tier ceilings, it is recommended to use the following useful tips:

The second level of the suspension system plays a decorative role, so its design must be taken responsibly by choosing unusual ideas. The technology for installing the structure will depend on the shape and size of the second tier, since often the figures can have a cutout or go down to the first level.
Installation should begin by measuring the perimeter of the ceiling and determining the height for each tier. To ensure that the calculations are performed correctly, you should use a laser or hydraulic level. For each level of the system, a mark is placed, after which a tapping cord is attached, and a working plane is formed.
The drawing of the future ceiling is drawn directly on the floor slabs to fix the evenness of the lines, and UD profiles are attached to the surface.
To give the structure volume, you need to make guides from CD profiles. At the same time, when working with profiles, it is necessary to leave a small margin of length.

The profiles are fixed with special metal screws. If necessary, they can be bent in any direction of the structure. In the case when the profile is placed opposite the ceiling, its direction is aligned as follows: cuts are made to the base every 5-10 cm, after which the segment is directed in the desired direction.
Cutouts in plasterboard ceilings must be made from rigid profiles that can withstand the load. They are attached to the ceiling using U-shaped brackets.
All load-bearing profiles, unlike conventional ones wall structures, are mounted at intervals of 40 cm. To increase their strength, you can take steps of 30 cm. Such reinsurance will increase the strength characteristics of the frame and protect the structure from possible cracking under the influence of the weight of the second tier.

Unlike walls, the load-bearing ceiling profiles are fixed directly to the ceiling itself, so the fastenings are subject to enormous load. To make the system durable, you should additionally attach metal brackets to the profiles, maintaining a distance of at least 60 cm.
It is advisable to combine the process of making a frame and covering it with sheets of plasterboard. Therefore, it is best to sheathe the second tier first, and only then start finishing the first main one. This way the work can be done faster and more conveniently.
The most difficult thing in designing a two-level ceiling may seem to be bending the plasterboard sheets. To do this, they are traditionally soaked, after which they are leveled with a special roller, but all this can be done in a different way. If you need to create shapes with a small radius, then drywall will bend well even when dry. In order not to break it, it is necessary to make even cuts along the parallel, observing a step of 5 cm. The resulting workpiece will easily bend and be puttied.

In order for the original ceiling to complement the interior of the room, you should worry about its lighting. For two-level systems ideal option LED strips are considered lighting. They are best attached along the perimeter of the lower tier, which forms a small niche. The result is a stunning light effect. In this case, the lower level should protrude beyond the perimeter of the frame by 50 or 70 mm. The edges of the drywall sheets are aligned along all boundaries, then guide profiles are placed and the LED strip is mounted.
The design of a two-tier ceiling must be selected strictly in accordance with the design style of the room. It should be harmoniously combined with wall decoration and flooring. Depending on the functional purpose rooms, you can install structures that visually divide the space into separate zones.

Beautiful examples in the interior

A two-level plasterboard ceiling is considered an ideal addition to the interior of any room. Such hanging systems look beautiful in kitchens, but since this type rooms are often exposed to moisture and high temperature, for decoration you need to choose the right material with special protection. A warm color palette is well suited for the kitchen, so it is best to design two-tier compositions from several shades of the color scheme. Separate inserts of different textures and colors will also look unusual in designs. Classic option for the kitchen there will be a snow-white ceiling with bright lighting, while lovers of modernism can choose models that combine not only plasterboard, but also colored canvas displays that will harmoniously complement the beauty of the flooring and furniture.

In addition, for the kitchen you can choose plasterboard systems assembled not only from rectangular tiers, but also decorated with interesting shapes, lines and patterns. It can be geometric figures, abstraction or waves. To emphasize the beauty of a complex structure, lighting sources need to be installed not only around the perimeter of the lower tier, but also placed in decorative details. This way you can do a little zoning in the kitchen. For example, a ceiling in beige and white colors looks gorgeous, while the color insert is a continuation of the shade of the furniture.

The living room plays a special role in every home. Since not only the whole family gathers in it, but also guests meet, its design must be special. Will help you achieve a stunning effect in the living room interior bunk ceiling. It will make the room luxurious and stylish, and unusual combinations of colors and shapes will give the surface a chic look. Two-level plasterboard ceilings, the design of which contains an elegant matte or glossy film, look especially beautiful in living rooms. Thanks to unusual decor you can even small room turn into a fashionable hall.

The color of the hanging composition must be chosen in accordance with the harmony of shades. Therefore, the tone of the background of the room is determined, and after that paint is added to the interior. Such ceilings can be decorated not only geometric shapes, but also Chinese symbols or unusual patterns. It all depends on the design style and personal preferences of the home owners. The two levels in the living rooms combined with the kitchen look especially interesting. For them you can choose classic design in white, placing an LED line on the surface in the form of original patterns.

The bedroom belongs to the rest and sleep area, so installing two-level ceilings in this room requires a special approach. An excellent solution for it would be a suspended structure of two tiers, where the plasterboard parts will be made in light colors, and decorative canvases made of dark shades. Lighting for such a composition can be done either from spotlights or the system can be supplemented with small chandeliers, which will help create an atmosphere of harmony and romance in the room. Looks interesting in the bedroom complex design in white, the upper tier of which is located above the bed.

Although the bathroom is subject to high humidity, it is still possible to install complex ceilings consisting of two levels and lighting. To do this, you need to choose drywall designed for wet rooms. It is advisable to use light shades in the design of such ceilings that would go well with the decoration of the walls. For the bathroom it is not necessary to make complex compositions; you can get by with the second tier, laying it out in a figured form.