Our company’s specialists perform a full range of façade works in Moscow and the Moscow region. Experienced craftsmen will install facade tiles within a clearly defined time frame; the cost of work per square meter starts from 1,300 rubles.
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TechnoNIKOL Hauberk facade tiles are ideal for cladding buildings of any purpose. Thanks to the construction of fiberglass treated with bitumen and natural basalt chips, the material demonstrates excellent strength, resistance to climatic and biological influences and durability.
Installation price of TechnoNIKOL facade tiles Hauberk
| Name | Unit | Price |
| Subsystem with fasteners | ||
| Primer | ||
| Installation of facade tiles2 | m2 | |
| Laying insulation | ||
| Tiling slopes | ||
| Tiling arches | ||
| Installation of ebb tides | ||
| Installation of ebb and flow on the plinth | ||
| Installing a canopy using climbers | ||
| Laying the border | ||
| Mosaic laying | ||
| Grouting joints | ||
| Sawing down the ends of the tiles at an angle of 45° | ||
| Epoxy grout |
Basic prices shown. The final cost of installing facade tiles is calculated individually and depends on a number of factors: total area, complexity architectural forms, altitude, etc. You can order a calculation by phone or by leaving a request on the website.
Stages of installation of facade tiles
- Preparatory work. The surface of the facade is inspected for defects, and minor repairs are made if necessary. Can act as a leveling base OSB boards or ordinary plywood with a thickness of at least 9 mm. Marking lines are drawn.
- Installation of basement drip. If there is a plinth, it is strongly recommended to install a drip tray.
- Installation of facade tiles TECHNONICOL HAUBERK. Work begins from the corner, retreating 5-10 mm. The petals of the tiles intended for the first row are trimmed. Each subsequent row is laid in a checkerboard pattern according to the principle brickwork.
- Arrangement of internal corners. The tile closest to the corner is cut taking into account the required distance to the corner edge of 5-10 mm. To install internal corners, it is optimal to use TechnoNIKOL Hauberk metal corners, which are fastened with galvanized self-tapping screws.
- Installation of openings. The tile closest to the opening is cut with a roofing knife, and after its installation the casing is laid. Upon completion of the work, install the ebb and flow window casing.
You can order installation of TECHNONICOL HAUBERK facade tiles by phone or by leaving a request on the website. We have been producing facade work of any complexity for more than 10 years and guarantee high quality.
Facade tiles allow you to make the walls of a new house beautiful and durable, or quickly restore and insulate it an old house. There are 2 installation technologies: wet - with glue, and dry - covering a ventilated facade. In this article we will figure out how to choose the right material for cladding a house.
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Material options
Types of tiles used for facade cladding:
- Porcelain tiles;
- Facade ceramic (frost-resistant) tiles;
- Clinker;
- Agglomerate;
- Terracotta;
- Facade concrete facing tiles.
The edge shape and surface texture of facade tiles, as well as its color, are very diverse: from natural tones, imitating natural materials, to bright saturated colors.
Porcelain tiles
Porcelain tiles are created based on a mixture of dyes, feldspar, various clays, sand and mineral additives. The material can be plain, interspersed (like “salt and pepper”), or can imitate marble or granite. Firing occurs at 1200-1300ºС.
- Do not absorb moisture (water absorption coefficient 0.05%);
- Frost resistance up to 50 cycles;
- Ecologically pure;
- High wear resistance;
- The most popular sizes are from 100x100 mm to 600x600 mm;
- Porcelain tiles for facades are made thinner (from 3 mm) so that they do not create a large load on the walls.
Most often, porcelain stoneware is attached to a frame using ventilated facade technology. This allows you to insulate the house and create an optimal microclimate inside.
Ceramics
Regular tiles are not suitable for outdoor use. It will quickly crack from frost. But some manufacturers produce special facade ceramics.
Clinker
Clinker tiles are made from shale clays, which do not contain impurities in the form of salts or calcium carbonate. Firing at 1300ºС. Production technology – extrusion.
Due to the presence of micropores in the clinker structure, it does not accumulate moisture and does not crack when frozen. In terms of frost resistance, it is even ahead of porcelain stoneware.
In addition, there are clinker thermal panels. These are clinker tiles with insulation. There are several thermal panel systems. In some of them, the insulation is attached together with the tiles. They are assembled like a construction set, inserted into a groove and attached to the wall with an umbrella dowel.
In others, first the insulation is attached to the wall, and then the tiles. A special insulation with grooves for each row of tiles is used, which greatly simplifies the cladding.
Agglomerate
Agglomerate is a pressed facing tile for facades made from crushed marble, quartzite or granite.
Quartz is the hardest component in the agglomerate. It gives the material strength and increased abrasion resistance. This durable tiles, often used for cladding commercial facades. In terms of technical characteristics, it is superior to marble, looks beautiful and is cheaper.
Terracotta tiles
Terracotta coating is obtained from kaolin clay. No dyes are used. Colors – light or red-brown, black. Firing temperature - 1000ºС. Texture: stone, brick, wood cut. It is afraid of moisture and flakes off over time. Installed using the wet method.
Concrete tiles
Cladding technology
Preparing the base
Facade cladding begins with preparing the base.
- Clean the façade from limescale and paint residues;
- Seal all seams and cracks;
- Prime the base;
- Install the reinforcing mesh;
- Plaster the walls;
- Prime again.
Dry installation method
The design of the ventilated facade includes:
- Facade tiles;
- The membrane in which the air space is formed;
- Insulation;
- Load-bearing base made of aluminum profile.
Technology:
- The wall is marked by level. It is necessary to draw a horizontal line and 2 vertical lines. Window and door openings will require an additional number of brackets, which are attached to the holes in the wall with dowels;
- Using mushroom dowels, pull the insulation to the surface. The elements are arranged in a checkerboard pattern;
- Secure the membrane over the insulation;
- Build a frame sheathing from a galvanized aluminum profile. It is installed in the grooves of the brackets and secured with rivets;
- They are also used to attach clamps to the profile;
- Installation of panels starts from the ground. We recommend façade tiles with metal fastenings, screwed to the profile with self-tapping screws.
- The installation step of the fasteners is determined depending on the size of the insulation sheets and tile elements.
Wet method
Facade tiles can also be mounted directly to the wall.
- Use a mixer (drill with attachment) to prepare glue for exterior use. Use one that can support the weight of your tiles.
- There is no need to soak the tiles, but if the installation side is dusty, dip them in water before installing. Highly absorbent bases are additionally moistened with water.
- For better adhesion, glue is applied to both the tile and the wall. One of the layers should be made for a comb, and the second for stripping (minimum layer, peeled off with an even spatula).
- Installation of slabs by pressing them against the surface to be coated begins from the corners. The thickness of the glue after pressing must be at least 3 mm.
- Before the glue hardens, you need to level the tiles flat and horizontal. The uniformity of the seams between the tiles is achieved using plastic crosses.
After a day, the seams are filled with grout. It is selected depending on the type of tile. Wide joints between tiles are filled using a semi-dry mixture or construction pistol. This must be done carefully so as not to stain the front side of the tile. If it is porous, it will be very difficult to wash it.
Modern facades can amaze with their uniqueness, unusual design and, of course, mind-blowing cost.
But none of them possible facades It’s worth nothing without a well-built ventilation system that will help you feel comfortable in the room and keep all finishing materials in a suitable condition for a long period of time.
Facades made of porcelain stoneware
To understand the assembly process, you must first study the structure of the porcelain stoneware facade, and only after that proceed to selecting the most suitable insulation and, of course, the installation process itself.
Of course, it cannot be said that the design of a ventilated facade consists only of porcelain stoneware. It also includes other materials, but due to the fact that they are located between the wall and the front layer, they are not in danger of being exposed to moisture.
Porcelain stoneware facades are all-season, so they can be installed even in winter;
- The panels do not require routine repairs;
- They are resistant to aggressive influences environment;
- Operation is very cheap, as it does not require additional costs.
We can say that the efforts of engineers and builders, who for many years have been looking for effective ways to protect building walls from moisture, were crowned with success as soon as this method of fastening was invented.
Structure and main elements
The structure of a ventilated facade is a rather complex structure, the installation of which must take place in strict accordance with all rules and technological standards. The lifespan of the building itself will depend on how well the façade is installed, since a reliable and correctly installed façade will be able to long years Protect the surface from wear and damage.
The structure of the facade consists of such basic elements as:
- Insulating layer.
- Insulation materials.
- Frame.
- Removable structural elements.
- The facing material, in our case, is porcelain stoneware slabs.
Selecting insulation
To choose a truly high-quality and most suitable insulation material, it is necessary to take into account such basic factors as its thickness and resistance to humid environment. These criteria are due to the fact that granite will constantly accumulate moisture, and the insulation must completely resist it in order to maintain its thermal insulation properties.
Minimum thickness at maximum efficiency is important due to the fact that porcelain stoneware is very heavy and should be positioned as closely as possible to the building itself, therefore the thinner the insulation, the tighter the porcelain stoneware façade will be installed.
What to look for when choosing panels
To answer this question you need to start with the elementary characteristics– tile size. It must be a multiple of the area of the building's façade, and the seams between individual elements must also be taken into account, taking into account temperature fluctuations. The selection of auxiliary parts is also carried out keeping this parameter in mind.
The size of the tile is also important from an aesthetic point of view. Having decided to use porcelain tiles not large sizes for cladding the building, otherwise it will look like a checkered notebook leaf. Therefore, experts recommend choosing products measuring at least 600×600 mm.
It is worth remembering that there are differences in calibers. So porcelain stoneware 600x600 mm can have actual dimensions from 592 to 605 mm. But if any deviations occur during installation, then you need to have a certain margin to compensate for them.
We must not forget about the details for fixing the tiles. By selecting The right way Its installation can save money, for example, by installing a porcelain stoneware façade only above the plinth.
Types of fastenings
There are two types of fastening of such structures:
The first will cost more, so it is performed at a lower level, and open throughout the rest of the area. This allows you to reduce total cost installation
The material of fasteners is selected taking into account resistance to aggressive environmental influences. Typically, stainless steel or aluminum is used as it is less susceptible to corrosion. An integral part of a ventilated façade is insulation. It should use materials designed for use in outdoor conditions.
Ventilated façade installation technology
To carry out installation, it is necessary to study each of the stages in more detail, which individually is a rather complex technological process. You will need to install different components and at the same time maintain a clear sequence. System technological installation will allow you to get a very high quality, attractive and durable end result.
The façade system and components are installed following the following steps:
- Preparatory stage.
- Marking the area and marking points for fastening.
- Installation of fasteners.
- Fastening insulators and insulation.
- Installation of a guide structure or frame.
- Installation of facing panels.
Step 1: Surface Preparation
The first stage of preparation for further installation is practically the most important, as it solves many problems in advance and contributes to a smoother, higher-quality and safer execution of all installation work.
Many of the actions that need to be done at this stage are prescribed in a special law, which strictly monitors the correct organization of construction. So, first of all, you must worry about the safety of passers-by and residents of nearby buildings:
- Equip a restrictive structure at a distance of at least three meters from the wall that will be processed.
- Place the necessary materials along the perimeter, as well as provide builders with a platform for assembling the structure directly on the ground and close to the installation site.
- Introduce restrictions on installation in unsuitable weather conditions.
- Adhere to all rules and safety management systems when working.
All of the listed nuances, by and large, relate to the finishing of facades of multi-storey buildings, but when decorating your home in the private sector, you must also adhere to them.
To arrange the façade sheathing you will need the following elements
Step 2: Marking mounting points
The next stage, which does not yet relate to installation, but is no longer preparatory, will be marking the attachment points of all support elements. All measurements and marking of lines should be carried out in strict accordance with the plan that was previously developed by the engineers.
The marking technology for components will take place according to the following stages:
- We define and mark the lines of beacons. You need to hit both the extreme vertical and horizontal lines.
- On the vertical extreme lines, we mark with paint the points where the support connections will be mounted to the wall of the building.
Mark the beacon lines that are formed in the form of a lower horizontal line and lateral vertical ones. Mark the intermediate marks on which the brackets will be installed.
Step 3: Mount the brackets
We have prepared a small instruction for you that will describe the technological process for installing the bracket system; it consists of only three stages:
- Using a hammer drill or any other drilling rig, we make holes in the wall.
- We install the paronite gasket in the prepared holes.
- Fixing the brackets anchor dowels using a powerful screwdriver.
Make holes in the walls using a hammer drill. Paronite gaskets need to be inserted into the finished holes.
Step 4: Install insulators and insulation
This stage must be carried out with special care, since the comfort of all rooms directly depends on it. To begin with, we install the insulation boards, on which the holes for the brackets are initially prepared. Then we roll out the insulators on top of them and lightly fasten them. We drill holes through the insulation and insulation into which we attach special disc holders.
It is worth noting that the insulation must be laid in a checkerboard pattern, so the risk of cracks forming and the amount of cold passing through the joints will be significantly reduced. To cut most insulation materials, a common stationery knife is used.
Step 5: Install the Guides
Installation of the guides goes quite quickly as you grab the large space. All you need to do is attach the profile to the bracket, align it and secure it with fasteners or bolts. The profiles are not attached to the adjustable brackets as rigidly as possible, so they will have the opportunity to move during the process of subsidence and deformation of the building.
Insert the profiles into the corresponding recesses of the support brackets and secure them with rivets. Don't forget to make fireproof shutoffs.
Finally, it is necessary to secure special fire cutoffs; it is best to ask the firefighters themselves about them. Due to their specialty, they are more competent in this matter.
Step 6: Install the facing slabs
The installation process is quite simple, but requires many different small manipulations. First of all, you need to mark the points on the profiles where the clamps will be installed. After that, according to the markings, a drill is required to install them.
The fastening elements used to fasten this material - clamps - are installed using holes on the guide profiles.
As the clamps are screwed in, porcelain stoneware slabs are laid, which can be installed in two ways: with a seam between individual sections or in a seamless structure. Which one is best suits you or the customer who decides to decorate his façade with such materials.
Ventilated facades made of porcelain stoneware, step-by-step technology installation
Types of ventilated facades. Stages of installation work. Nuances in installing the structure.
Technology of façade cladding with porcelain stoneware
Modern market building materials offers so much a large number of options for finishing the facade, which is easy for an inexperienced person to get confused.
Before you go shopping, you need to familiarize yourself with the possible options and choose the right one at home. Today we’ll talk about porcelain stoneware and how good it is for façade cladding.
Manufacturing technology of porcelain tiles for facade cladding
Although the material is manufactured in a factory, it is considered environmentally friendly. The raw materials chosen are:
- refractory clays;
- quartz sand;
- clay with a high content of kaolins;
- feldspar;
- mineral additives acting as a pigment.
As you can see, the substances are only natural, no synthetic components. In terms of composition, porcelain stoneware is classified as a ceramic finishing material.
The technical process begins with the selection of the necessary components and their grinding. Each substance is crushed separately and stored in special containers. Next, the components are mixed dry. The dry mixture is sent to dry to remove moisture.
After drying, they begin to form the tiles. The dried mixture with a moisture content of no more than 7% is poured into prepared forms and sent for pressing. This process takes place in 2 stages:
- Removing air bubbles under pressure of about 80 kg/m2.
- Forming tiles – 400kg/m2 and more.
After the press, the molds are sent for additional drying, where the moisture is completely removed. Next, the workpieces are fired in long kilns; they are divided into sections, and each has its own temperature regime:
- 4000 C – preheating;
- 9000 C – primary firing;
- 13000C – final firing. At this stage, the blanks are reduced by 5–10% and a finished tile is obtained.
After such high temperatures It is impossible to remove the material from the oven because the tiles in the molds remain in the last compartment of the oven for some time, where they gradually cool.
It is important that during firing the forms are kept at each temperature for a certain amount of time. If the substances do not undergo complete fusion, the tile will lose strength. If you overexpose it, the elements will change color and quickly fade.
Main types
Despite the fact that only natural substances are used in production, manufacturers produce many varieties of porcelain stoneware. Based on the method finishing highlight:
- Matte slabs only undergo a sanding process.
- The polished material is further polished, resulting in a glossy and smooth surface.
- A semi-polished finish is achieved by using coarser materials during polishing. The cost is slightly lower than the previous option.
- Satin plates have an original pattern. To create it, a small amount of mineral salts is sprinkled onto the dry mixture before firing. After fusion, a beautiful ornament is obtained.
- The structured version is only matte. This is an imitation natural materials. The process of creating such tiles is difficult, therefore the price is the most expensive.
In addition, you can choose the color of the products that will be used to cover the walls. Manufacturers offer a choice of natural shades:
There are also radical black options.
The slabs also differ in size. There are small elements of 30x30 cm, and pieces of huge sizes - 120x180 cm. Professionals recommend choosing medium-sized tiles - from 40x40 to 80x80 cm, so as not to overload the facade in one place. Well, installing such parts is easier.
Advantages and disadvantages of the material
Studying the advantages and disadvantages will help make sure that the material is suitable not only in appearance, but also in terms of technical and operational characteristics. Let's start with the advantages of cladding:
- Fire and environmental safety. The material does not burn, and only natural substances are used for production.
- Stability under sharp and frequent variability temperature conditions.
- Moisture-repellent properties.
- Additional noise and heat insulation options.
- Easy to install.
- Long service life. Some manufacturers indicate a figure of more than 50 years, but if you take into account all the subtleties of installation, this value can be increased.
- Unpretentious care. The surface does not accumulate dust and dirt, so it is easily cleaned by precipitation. Water from a hose will do.
- Inert to chemical and ultraviolet influence. The material does not react with cleaning agents if they are used. And it retains its original appearance for a long time throughout its entire service life.
Of the shortcomings, only two can be identified, but for some they will be decisive factors:
- Heavy weight individual elements porcelain stoneware finishing and the entire structure as a whole. If the design of the house does not take into account the use of such cladding, then it is better to abandon this option. Otherwise, you need to strengthen the foundation and load-bearing walls, and this will delay the cladding process and incur additional costs.
- Great cost.
If these shortcomings do not frighten you, then porcelain stoneware finishing will decorate your home.
Technology of cladding the facade of a building with porcelain stoneware
To do it yourself Finishing work you need to familiarize yourself with the methods of attaching the material and the main steps technological process. Porcelain tiles can be fixed in two ways:
- Mechanical. Special clamps, rivets or self-tapping screws are used. Suitable for installation on the frame of a ventilated facade.
- For the adhesive solution. Fixes directly to a pre-leveled building wall or stair step.
You can combine wet and mechanical installation methods. As for the technology itself, you need to adhere to the following plan:
- Preparing the base. Cleaning dirt and stains, removing hanging elements, sealing cracks and holes for fasteners, and, if necessary, leveling with cement mortar. Be sure to treat the surface with primer. Concrete base without flaws there is no need to level it.
- If the installation method based on the principle of a ventilated facade is chosen, a frame is installed.
- Cladding with porcelain tiles.
Mechanical fastening
This method of installing facing material involves the use of clamps, rivets or self-tapping screws. He can be:
- Open - a through hole is made in the tile, and the fasteners will be visible. To ensure that the fasteners are not subject to rapid corrosion, choose options that are galvanized or coated with paint that matches the shade.
- Hidden - holes are made in the end of the element for cladding. Then the fasteners will not be visible to others.
If you choose the wet method of cladding the facade of the building, you need to carefully inspect the base. The surface must be perfectly flat; if there are potholes or protruding parts, plaster will help eliminate them.
For facade work, special glue is chosen. It must withstand changes in temperature conditions and mechanical stress. In addition, you should make sure that you can withstand a heavy load. The manufacturer indicates this information on the packaging.
You can also glue porcelain stoneware onto the porch of a private house. The technology is the same, only after finishing the work the surface cannot be loaded for about 3 days so that the glue can completely harden.
Combined method
For more reliable fixation, use a combined fastening method. A small amount of glue is applied to the tiles and applied to the frame; after the glue has dried, mechanical fastening begins.
The fasteners can be hidden or left in plain sight. Here the owner decides for himself what is more preferable.
As stated above, facing a house with porcelain stoneware can be carried out according to the principle of a ventilated facade. For a weighty structure you need to select reliable profile. Wooden beam may not withstand the load, so it is better to buy a metal profile. In addition, the service life of wood is shorter than that of cladding.
The frame for the ventilation facade is equipped according to the standard plan:
- Marking and installation of brackets.
- Arrangement of waterproofing layers and laying of insulation.
- Fixation of guides taking into account the size of the tiles. You definitely need to check how evenly the profiles are installed.
Just glue the boards onto cement mortar not the most reliable option. The base is constantly subjected to mechanical stress and therefore the parts can boil. If the decision is made to veneer the base wet method, then you need to choose a suitable adhesive solution. The gluing process will be the same as cladding walls and steps.
But a combined fixation method will be more reliable. The sheathing is installed only from metal profiles, and the fasteners are made hidden. Insulating the basement will not be superfluous. It’s just better to choose ones that are more resistant to high humidity materials.
Approximate prices for façade cladding with porcelain stoneware
As stated above, such cladding will be quite expensive. Matte tiles cost from 320 rubles per square meter, polished tiles will cost from 1000 rubles/m2. Satin tiles can be purchased at a price that starts from 1,250 rubles per square meter.
In addition, you still need to spend money on a cool mixture or profiles and fasteners. Those who do not want to waste their time or are not comfortable with such work must also pay for the work of a professional team. The cost of the work is almost the same as the materials.
Facade cladding with porcelain stoneware: installation technology (photo, video)
How to properly cladding a house or part of it (basement) with porcelain stoneware slabs? What are the advantages of porcelain stoneware cladding, its main characteristics.
Facade porcelain tiles
Although the material has been on the construction market for several decades, it is still little known to some developers. In order to make a conscious choice, you need to familiarize yourself with porcelain stoneware in more detail.
Installation of a ventilated facade
Manufacturing technology and main types
Artificial stone is made from powders by pressing under high pressure followed by firing. Pressing pressure up to 500 kg/cm 2, firing temperature up to +1300°C. The powder contains quartz sand, clay, kaolins, feldspars and mineral dyes. To give an original appearance, other additives can be used. At first, porcelain stoneware was used only as technical tiles, later it began to be used for the manufacture of flooring and plumbing equipment. Recently, facades of various buildings and structures have been covered with porcelain tiles.
Porcelain tiles allow you to implement complex architectural projects
One of the options for porcelain stoneware finishing
Unlike flooring, the thickness of porcelain stoneware slabs for facades does not exceed ten millimeters. Otherwise, the large weight of the structures has a Negative influence on the foundations of buildings. In addition, the requirements for the load-bearing performance of facade walls are increasing; not all of them are suitable for cladding with such material. Standard overall dimensions does not exist, manufacturers are guided by their own specifications. But for facades it is not recommended to use too small or large tiles, the size must be at least 40x40 cm and no more than 80x80 cm.
Porcelain tiles for facade
Porcelain stoneware facing tiles
Unfortunately, domestic companies (Kerabud, Estima and others) cannot yet produce for facade finishing quality tiles large sizes. Professional builders strongly recommend purchasing products from Spanish or Italian companies: Alfa Ceramiche, AO Ceramicas Aparici, etc. You should not deal with the Chinese; the surface of the facade will be uneven due to problems with the accuracy of the slabs. The material belongs to the expensive category, you don’t need to throw away a lot of money and end up with crooked facades, even if they are made of fashionable porcelain stoneware.
Table of external surface options
Features of porcelain tiles for facades
Companies produce mosaic, glazed and other types of porcelain tiles, but they are not used for finishing facades due to their very high cost. To ensure that the edges artificial stone had perfect sizes, during production they are cut with high-precision machines. The higher the quality of the tile and the smaller the deviation from dimensions, the easier it is to work with. But such material is not available to all consumers due to the high price.
Physical characteristics of porcelain stoneware
Facade ventilated porcelain stoneware with wood effect
Advantages of porcelain stoneware facade slabs
Relatively high price The use of facing material is fully justified by its excellent performance characteristics.
- The material is completely non-flammable and is recommended by fire organizations for creating barriers.
The material is absolutely non-flammable
Original facade solutions
In all respects, porcelain stoneware for facade cladding is superior to traditional materials. The only problem is the price, but when you consider the additional savings on surface maintenance and excellent design performance, the high cost is justified.
Porcelain tiles for facade this moment- the most durable solution for building cladding
White and black exterior, porcelain stoneware finish
Step-by-step instructions for installing façade porcelain stoneware slabs
Important. Installation of façade porcelain tiles is a very responsible job. If you don't have any experience, don't take it. Poor quality performance will result in significant losses financial resources. In addition, a slab falling from a height can cause serious injury. Unconditionally follow all manufacturers' recommendations, use only those fasteners that are designed for a specific weight.
Wall cladding with slabs (ventilated facade system) consists of several structural elements:
- carrier system. It includes mounting brackets, vertical and horizontal guides. They are made of thick galvanized steel; special holes are provided to adjust the spatial position. They must not only withstand the weight of porcelain stoneware slabs, but also the wind load;
- thermal insulation layer, if you plan to install one. All modern buildings must be thermally insulated, this is provided for by current regulations. In old buildings, the decision on additional wall insulation is made by each owner individually;
- facing finishing slabs. Dimensions and appearance Porcelain stoneware is selected taking into account the planned design of the facade walls.
To carry out the work, you will need an electric drill with a hammer drill, a device for installing rivets (if the supporting frame is assembled with their help), wrenches, a plumb line and a long, precise level. If there laser level– great, marking will be done much faster and more accurately. If not, you will have to use a hydraulic level.
Fasteners for installing porcelain tiles
Before starting installation, remove near the wall, assemble scaffolding, and think about where to store materials. Be sure to work together, or better yet, three. The final number of people is determined taking into account the size and weight of the slabs. It is advisable to draw a wall on paper, indicate its dimensions and first think over a plan for placing the brackets, taking into account linear dimensions slabs and methods of their fastening. Determine the locations for fixing the brackets, calculate their number and linear meters of horizontal and vertical slats. Taking into account the weight, choose dowels or anchors; the heavier the slabs, the stronger the hardware should be.
Assembly diagram of substructure elements and porcelain stoneware slabs. Option 1
During preliminary planning, count the number of window openings and doors, determine entry/exit locations engineering communications. They must be accessible for prompt elimination of emergency situations.
Any installation of a ventilation facade must first be correctly calculated
Step 1. Marking the wall. You need to immediately mark the location of the brackets on the wall. Drawings for the placement of brackets are included in the documentation for ventilated facades. Using them, determine the extreme control points.
Important. The brackets must be at a distance of at least 10 cm from the corner of the building, window and door openings, otherwise there is a risk of compromising the strength of the frame.
Secure the two uppermost brackets, lower a long plumb line from them and mark the lowest points. Use a rope with blue to beat off the vertical lines.
Mounting bracket to the building wall
Step 2. Taking into account the dimensions of the porcelain tiles and the manufacturer's instructions, beat off the remaining vertical lines at the recommended distance. For most cases of finishing facades with porcelain stoneware slabs, the vertical distances between brackets are up to 1000 mm, horizontal distances are up to 800 mm. When calculating the quantities for the entire wall, round the resulting values taking into account the dimensions of the façade wall.
Step 3. Use a laser or hydraulic level to make horizontal marks at the corners of the wall, and use a rope and blue to mark parallel lines. After marking, a grid with identical cell sizes should appear on the wall of the house. Check them in all respects, everything is fine - start drilling holes. Keep in mind that load-bearing brackets must also be installed around the perimeter of window and door openings.
Step 4. Use a hammer drill with a pobedit drill bit. The depth of the holes should be several centimeters greater than the length of the dowels or anchors. For porcelain stoneware slabs, it is recommended to use anchors; they can withstand significant forces. It is not safe to work with dowels.
Marking and drilling holes
Step 5. Immediately install the brackets within reach and carefully check the strength of the fixation. To prevent the appearance of cold bridges, gaskets can be installed between the wall and the brackets. Use only paronite ones, they have greater strength and do not deform under prolonged exposure to loads. Plastic ones can bend, which has an extremely negative effect on the strength of the entire structure. The design of the brackets has special holes for adjusting their exact position.
bracket L-shaped for installation of guides
Step 6. After all the brackets are secured, proceed to insulating the walls. Building codes and the rules allow you to use only non-flammable materials, only those foams that do not support open fire are allowed. But it is better not to use it either; during combustion it releases deadly toxic substances. To lose consciousness, you only need to inhale the smoke a few times. The optimal solution is pressed mineral wool.
Schematic diagram of insulation installation
Schematic diagram of installation of two-layer insulation
Practical advice. For insulation, take sheets at least 10 cm thick; thinner ones give little effect, and the labor costs are the same. But the final decision depends on the thermal conductivity of the wall.
Glass wool is secured with special dowels with large heads. Press the mats tightly against each other, install them in a checkerboard pattern, and do not allow any gaps to form. Any violations of technology lead to a significant decrease in heat saving efficiency. For one mat standard size there must be at least five fixation points. Remember that a gap of 2-3 cm between glass wool and the wall reduces the efficiency of heat saving by at least 60%. Air convection occurs in the gap due to the temperature difference, warm air goes outside, and the wall is cooled by the incoming cold.
Sequence of fixing plates
Fastening insulation with dowels
Important. Don't cut large holes in the locations of the supporting brackets, do not create additional areas of heat loss. Figure out where the bracket will come out and only here cut the mat lengthwise or crosswise. How exactly to cut depends on the characteristics of the bracket.
Mineral wool should be reliably protected from water. Cover it with a moisture-proof cloth; there is a huge selection of them on sale today. Do not use plastic film; moisture will accumulate under it and condensation will appear in winter. Mineral wool is moistened, with increasing relative humidity values the heat saving values rapidly decrease.
Wind-hydroprotective membrane installation diagram
At this point, the first part of the installation of porcelain stoneware slabs is completed, you can proceed to the second stage.
Step 1. Begin installation of vertical and horizontal profiles. This is a very important moment; if all the elements are not located strictly in one plane, then great difficulties will arise during the fixation of the slabs. How to install elements correctly?
- Fix the two outer supporting profiles strictly level and adjust their position in relation to the wall. Check the spatial position again.
- Stretch ropes between them and mount the remaining vertical elements along them. We have already mentioned that fixation can be done with rivets or bolts. Never buy elements that are fastened with self-tapping screws; they are made of thin steel and are not designed for heavy loads.
- After the vertical slats are installed, fix the horizontal slats to them. The more often you check their position, the less disappointment you expect during the installation of porcelain stoneware slabs.
Step 2. Install the slabs. They are fixed using metal clamps.
Porcelain tile fastening diagram
This is what the clamps for installing porcelain tiles look like
Attaching starting clamps
Secure the two lower clamps, place the plate on them and fix the two upper ones. One clamp has two ears; they must hold two adjacent slabs. Thanks to this technology, their position is automatically adjusted; the edges will lie strictly on the same line.
Installation of porcelain tiles
Installation of porcelain tiles
It is important to maintain the gaps between the plates
The distance between the side edges of the slabs is controlled visually, but some types of clamps have special stops. Working with them is faster and easier, and the appearance of the façade wall improves.
Porcelain tile fastening unit in the guide
Porcelain tile fastening unit on the inner corner of the facade
Feudal attachment point on the outer corner of the building
Step 3. If there are pipe outlets on the wall or electrical cables, then technological holes should be made in these places in the porcelain slabs.
With a correctly installed frame, work is completed quickly. Remember that time lost on marking and installing load-bearing elements is always returned during installation.
Before choosing a specific installation method for porcelain tiles, consider the following factors:
- house dimensions;
- climatic features - temperature factor, prevailing wind direction, average annual precipitation;
- designer look and personal budget options.
The load-bearing elements of the frame must be made of the same metal, otherwise currents will appear at the contact points, accelerating corrosion. Never skimp on the strength of the brackets, always buy the most reliable ones. Porcelain tiles have a lot of weight, you need to constantly remember this.
Work only in good weather; if there is a chance of rain, protect structures from water ingress. Manufacturers claim that structures can be installed at air temperatures down to -15°C, but we do not recommend listening to them. Not because the structures won’t hold up, but because working in such conditions is very difficult. As a result, there may be a violation of technology, errors during marking or fixing frame elements. In addition, snow that falls on mineral wool will definitely melt someday. And increasing the humidity of the insulation by just 5% increases thermal conductivity by 50%. Mineral wool gets wet quickly, but takes a long time to dry. Moreover, if it is protected by façade membranes.
For porcelain stoneware slabs, be sure to install vertical and horizontal supporting profiles. The combined frame evenly redistributes bending and torsion, compression and tension loads. The design becomes very reliable and durable. If the strength of fixation of vertical profiles is impaired, the load is taken by horizontal ones and vice versa. The disadvantage of the combined system is the increased cost. But you shouldn’t skimp on safety.
Window frame installation diagram
Assembly of the façade to the window opening, lower
Junction of the facade to the window opening, side
Assembly of the façade to the window opening, upper
Carefully make connections and frames; cover the side ends only with solid slabs. Special attention Pay attention to the plinth and places where it joins the roof. Eliminate the possibility of moisture ingress, but do not close the ventilation. Based on the results of inspection of defective facades, it was found that 55% of problems were due to improper installation porcelain stoneware slabs, 40% due to incorrect markings and 5% due to unprofessional selection of load-bearing elements.
Facade finishing - photo
This is what a ventilated porcelain stoneware façade looks like
Facade porcelain tiles: installation technology step by step
Find out what façade porcelain tiles are. Types and features, performance characteristics. Step-by-step installation instructions. Photo + video.
Today, the market for materials for private housing construction offers a large number of options for facade finishing: different kinds siding, plaster, wood, brick, metal and much more.
One of the popular materials is facade tiles.
It is convenient to use, easy to install and very attractive in appearance.
Types of facade tiles
Very durable finishing material, not exposed to the environment. The service life is on average 100 years. However, this is an expensive material and its fastening is quite complicated.
Such tiles are made from a combination of quartz, granite chips, expanded clay and other binding components, then they are fired and pressed. This material is convenient for different installation options, both directly on the wall and on the sheathing, using insulation underneath. It has almost all the functions of natural stone, but is several times cheaper.
A big plus of this material is its ease of installation. The main disadvantages of concrete panels are that the facade of the house must be treated with sealant 2-3 times a year. Such tiles cannot withstand frequent temperature changes (freeze/thaw).
Making this type is similar to making bricks; the clay is fired until it melts almost completely, thereby creating a material that almost completely does not absorb moisture. It is convenient to install, it is durable, does not fade in the sun, can withstand frost, but is quite expensive.
Polymer facade tiles
Consists of sand, polymer and pigments. This is a fairly durable, frost-resistant material. It is easy to install and maintain.
TechnoNIKOL HAUBERK facade tiles and its types
TechnoNIKOL facade tiles are made on the basis of fiberglass, improved bitumen and basalt topping.
Main advantages:
- does not fade in the sun, due to basalt granules in top layer
- Easy installation so you can do it yourself
- tightness
- resistance to temperature changes
- can be used for complex projects
- warranty - 20 years
TechnoNIKOL facade tiles are available in the following options:
- baked brick
- sand brick
- terracotta brick
- beige brick
- marble brick
- antique brick
- Red brick
Tools required for laying tiles:
- hammer
- metal scissors
- level
- lace
- screwdriver
- nails and screws for metal, galvanized
- construction hair dryer
How to correctly lay façade tiles on the walls of a house?
If there are few panels in the package different shades– this is easy to hide during installation. Several packs need to be mixed. The façade of the finished building will look harmonious.
When installed at temperatures below +5 degrees, the panels must be kept inside the building for 24 hours before installation. The adhesive layer must be prepared by heating construction hairdryer.
Pallets with panels cannot be stacked on top of each other.
Pallets with panels should not be exposed to direct sunlight. Otherwise, sintering of the adhesive layer may occur.
The panels are attached to wooden base galvanized nails with wide heads. There are 8 nails per panel. When laying the top row, the bottom edge is also attached at the same time, that is, 16 nails are needed.
Storage of TechnoNIKOL HAUBERK facade panels
The material should be stored in a dry place, protected from direct sunlight.
Storage and transportation is only possible at temperatures below 40º.
Transportation and storage of material is only possible when pallets are installed in one row.
Stacking pallets in 2-3 rows is only possible when using special racks.
The guaranteed shelf life until installation is 18 months.
Before installing facade tiles, it is necessary to prepare a continuous flooring. It can be done using plywood, OSB-3, edged or tongue-and-groove boards. The base must be: at least 9 mm in thickness, solid, hard and dry. The gaps between the plates should be no more than 2-3 mm.
Before installation, it is necessary to make markings to make it easier to install later, as well as to level the material if the façade is divided by a window or door.
1. If the house has a base, then initially a drip sill is installed from the corner of the building. The ebb is cut at a right angle, then the remaining base is installed.
2. A starting line is set 5-10 mm away from the corner of the house. You can use a panel with cut petals as it. Removed protective film, and the tile is fixed with 3 nails at the top and 8 nails at the bottom.
3. The first row is mounted on top of the starting row, flush with the base and secured with 8 nails. The next row is glued with an offset to the floor of the petal. Special notches are provided for this purpose. The adhesive layer can be additionally heated with a hair dryer for the best fixation.
4. Tiles that extend beyond the edge of the corner should be trimmed. The distance to the edge should be 5-10 mm. The corner is closed from above with an external metal corner from TechnoNIKOL HAUBERK. It is fastened with self-tapping screws every 300 mm. Fastening occurs from the bottom up, the overlap between the corners should be at least 5 cm.
5. The internal corners are constructed in an absolutely similar way. To do this, you need to use TechnoNIKOL HAUBERK metal corners.
6. The arrangement of doorways is similar to the arrangement of corners. The panel is trimmed with a margin of 5-10 mm, and the door trim is installed on top.
7. Window openings - fastening is done from both sides of the window to the top of the opening. The panels are trimmed with a margin of 5-10 mm to the window opening. Next, the ebb and metal window casing are installed. You can also mount material on both sides of the opening, if necessary, on top of the platband. Then install the platband on top so that it is covered by the facade tiles.
8. Installation along the eaves overhang.
There are two options for installation along the eaves overhang:
- The facade tiles are laid above the eaves overhang line, and a pressure strip is installed on top. Fastened with self-tapping screws at a distance of 100 mm. Then the eaves overhang is completed.
- Or vice versa. First, the overhang is hemmed, the tiles are brought to it and secured with a pressure strip and self-tapping screws at a distance of 100 mm.
- If the house does not have a cornice cut, then the top row is covered with a cornice strip on top.
Facade tiles are a very convenient material. Due to the fact that its pattern follows the brick, you can easily come up with an individual design.
To come up with a design, you need to consider the following rules:
- panel - 4 petals
- each row is shifted by half a petal
- the pattern should have a diagonal orientation
- the panels are laid end to end, the next row overlaps it when shifted to the floor of the petal
- To create a pattern, divide the panel into petals with a knife. If necessary, for example, when decorating a corner, you can even use half petals
- can be combined different colors facade tiles
- before cutting and installation, it is better to draw a layout of the picture from facade panels in color, taking into account the brick size 25 by 10 cm
Video instructions for installing tiles on the facade
You can see more clearly how the installation of facade tiles is carried out in the video.
Installation of facade tiles begins with the selection of sheathing fasteners. The type of fastener is selected depending on the surface to be covered. For wooden surface use self-tapping screws from 45 mm to 110 mm. For brick - dowel-nails from 80 mm to 140 mm (or anchors for slotted bricks), for houses made of foam concrete, use special “screw” dowels for foam blocks (diameter 14, length 80) for houses built using the “permanent formwork” technology, frame anchors from 90 mm to 152 mm are used.
For insulation, a 50x50 block is used, and for lathing, a 100x25 board is used. To extend the service life of the throw and board, pre-treatment is necessary antiseptic composition, for example, “Senezh”, “Tree healer”, etc.
Walls can be covered with façade tiles with or without insulation. More often, due to climatic conditions, houses are insulated. To do this, install a 50x50 beam under the insulation. In order for the mats to fit tightly and there are no “cold bridges”, the distance between the bars should be slightly smaller size insulation (1-2 cm).
To provide thermal insulation, different insulation materials can be used. The most common option is mineral insulation, such as Rockwool, Isoroc, etc. With a recommended density of at least P40. The size of the mat depends on the manufacturer. (the most common are 500x1000 and 600x1200)
In order to protect mineral wool insulation from environmental influences, a wind-moisture-proof membrane film is used. It is attached to the block using a construction stapler; staples of 8-10 mm are selected. The most commonly used membrane film is Izospan A, Stroizol A, etc.
Mounted on top of the film vertically and parallel to each other edged board 100x25, with a step corresponding to the selected tile model. The sheathing is secured with self-tapping screws from 45 mm to 100 mm.
Note: when forming a corner (Small Chip Stone or Corner elements overlapping the main tile), the 1st tile is cut and the distance between the first and second boards is reduced. The next step of the sheathing follows according to the table.
Finally, the moment comes to directly attach the tiles. Fastening is done using self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws 4.2x19 are used, galvanized with a sharp press washer, without a drill.
The installation of sheathing is divided into horizontal and vertical.
The following types are mounted horizontally:
Slate, Large Chip Stone, Small Chip Stone, Sandstone, Rock Formation, Stone Mosaic.
The following types are mounted on the vertical:
Combined, chipped chamfer, Riga brick, smooth brick, clinker, chipped brick, Konakovo brick, grated brick.
Since the façade tiles are attached mechanically, using self-tapping screws, its installation can be carried out in any weather and on any surface.
Installation is carried out in a certain order: from bottom to top and from the corner. The first tile in a row is secured with 4 self-tapping screws, each subsequent tile is inserted into the lock and secured with 2 self-tapping screws.
For three-row brick models (6 bricks per tile - Combined, Chip chamfer, Smooth brick, Old brick, Riga three-row brick) - To preserve the pattern of the brickwork, each subsequent row must be turned 180°. In order for the masonry to be neat, it is necessary to periodically check each new row for level.
If necessary, the tiles are sawn and polished using an angle grinder - “grinder”. If the fastening plates had to be sawed off, the tile is drilled into the seam and secured with a self-tapping screw, and the head is rubbed down.