Installation of decorative MDF panels. Installation of MDF panels: two ways to attach wall panels to walls. How to install MDF wall panels in the kitchen: fastening without slats

Covering walls with MDF panels is an affordable and simple way to decorate residential premises.

The finishing material has a decent attractive appearance, has excellent heat and sound insulation properties, and installing MDF panels with your own hands is not very difficult.

Interior decoration of walls with MDF panels is carried out in two main methods: on the lathing and directly on the wall surface. Preference for one or another finishing option is based on the condition of the walls in the room and its operating conditions.

Frame method

The essence of the method is to attach finishing MDF boards to a pre-constructed sheathing. It is used in several cases:

  • the wall surface is uneven and there is no way to eliminate the defect;
  • the room needs heat or sound insulation;
  • there is a need to hide engineering Communication– wiring, for example, located on walls.

Finishing materials

Using the frame method, it is possible to install MDF panels on a wall of any form factor - slatted lamellas, wall panels and decorative sheets. AND appearance slabs, panel thickness, and quality are determined not by the installation method, but by the functionality of the room.

  1. Form factor.

The most commonly used material is rack material, since, thanks to the tongue-and-groove joint, its installation is simple and does not take much time.

Cladding with tiles and sheet panels more difficult, since it is associated with the need to comply with a certain pattern.

  1. Thickness.

The slabs are produced with a thickness of 6 mm for slats, and from 3 mm for sheet products. For finishing the walls of rooms with severe operating conditions, it is recommended to choose MDF panels of maximum thickness.

  1. Moisture resistance.

Moisture-resistant MDF panels are used for finishing bathrooms, toilets and kitchens.

Tools and Supplies

  • MDF boards - slatted, panel, sheet.
  • Universal corner made of fiberboard - used when decorating corners.
  • – if thermal insulation work is being carried out.
  • Hammer, jigsaw, knife.
  • Square and usually nylon thread.
  • "Liquid nails" or other wood glue.
  • Wood screws - from 40 to 80 mm, plastic dowels or plugs - for attaching the sheathing.
  • Nails, clamps with a tongue of the required height, glue - depending on the chosen method of installing the panel.

Preparatory stage

  1. Since during the installation of MDF panels on a metal frame or wooden sheathing is not carried out, then its preparation comes down to cleaning it from dust and dirt. However, if there are large cracks on the wall, they should be repaired.
  2. The wiring is retracted into corrugated pipes.
  3. If there is a general high level of humidity in the apartment, it is recommended to treat the surface with an antiseptic primer.

The coefficient of thermal expansion of MDF products is low, but moisture resistance is low, so the material should be kept indoors for 2-3 days in order to equalize the humidity of the board and the air.

With a small sheet thickness - 3-6 mm, this stage can be neglected; with a large sheet - 16-20 mm, exposure is necessary.

Manufacturing and installation of sheathing

The frame is made from wooden blocks with a cross-section of 20×40 mm, or a galvanized profile. Both solutions have their advantages

Wooden sheathing is much easier to install and does not require large quantity hardware, and is characterized by the ability to absorb and release moisture at a level close to MDF boards.

In this case, the material requires additional processing antiseptics and does not exclude the possibility of destruction under the influence of moisture.

The metal frame is highly durable and resistant to moisture.

MDF installation panels on a metal profile provides rigid fastening, which prevents the panels from elongating. In rooms with noticeable changes in temperature and humidity, for example on a loggia, this leads to warping of the finish.

Since, with the exception of special moisture-resistant ones, they are also not resistant to moisture, you should not build a frame more durable than the sheathing itself.

Installation of lathing for MDF panels: detailed instructions

Slat slats can be positioned horizontally, vertically or diagonally. Square panels can be formed into a pattern. In any case, the installation directions of the sheathing strip and the MDF panel must be perpendicular to each other.

The diagonal method of laying panels is more material-intensive.

Vertical installation of finishing is most often used, as it ensures a minimum of waste.

  1. The most convex place on the wall surface is determined - its height is the control point.

The frame rail must pass through the top of the convexity.

  1. The recommended pitch is 40–60 cm. If the sheet size is large, the pitch can be increased.

The possibility of increasing is checked as follows: if the panel bends slightly when pressed by hand between the slats, then the change is permissible.

  1. The wall is marked with a pencil.

In this case, it is advisable to place the bottom strip as close to the floor as possible: the baseboard is attached to it.

  1. The first to install the rail is the most convex place.

The block is placed on the marked line, and a hole is drilled in the wall through the plank using a hammer drill. The depth of the hole is calculated so that the self-tapping screw is at least 30–40 mm deep into the main wall. The fastening pitch is at least 60 cm.

  1. First of all, the rail is fixed at the top of the convexity - close to the wall, and then at the opposite end, previously leveled.
  2. To check the plane of the block, a thread is pulled from one end to the other end of the wall and fixed on self-tapping screws at a level; a match is placed between the head and the thread.

Correction of the rack fastening is carried out using wedges, the thickness of which is determined by the deviation of the fastening depth compared to the control point.

  1. Blanks for wedges are cut from a lath and trimmed with a knife as work progresses.

It is allowed to use pieces of plywood.

  1. The second rail, usually lower, is installed in the same way: the ends are fixed level, and the rest of the fastening is adjusted along the thread.
  2. The following frame elements are mounted as follows: the rule is applied to the fixed slats, and the next bar is aligned in the plane with the first two.

It is prohibited to attach any objects to the MDF panel. However, it is quite possible to hang a mirror in the hallway if the installation of MDF wall panels is carried out on a frame.

Wall cladding with MDF panels

Sheathing begins after constructing the frame.

Mounting methods:

  • Glue it.

The adhesive composition is applied to the panel in the areas of fixation to the sheathing. Suitable for thin slabs;

  • Mechanical fastening with staples, nails or screws.

Provides reliable fixation, but does not compensate for thermal expansion. The method is recommended for rooms with stable temperature and humidity;

  • Fastening with clamps.

The clip is placed on the edge of the panel and secured to the sheathing with nails. This is the most recommended option.

Installation sequence

  1. Slat slats and universal corners are cut to length using a jigsaw or hacksaw. The edges are sanded.
  2. Installation can be started from any corner of the room.
  1. The first lamella is fixed in such a way that the edge with the ridge is directed towards the corner, and the gap between the wall and the sheathing board is 2-3 mm.

On the ridge side, the lamella is fixed with self-tapping screws to the slats, and on the groove side, a clamp is put on the edge and secured. When joining, the fastener is hidden by the ridge of the next element.

The next panels are inserted with a comb into the groove of the previous one and secured with clamps.

  1. The last panel usually needs adjustment.

The slab is tried on, the required width is determined, and the excess fragment is cut off. Then the element is inserted and also secured in the corner with self-tapping screws.

  1. The corners and top edge are finished with a universal corner.

Design of sockets and switches

When decorating walls with MDF panels in such areas, you must:

  • try on the panel and mark the location of the outlet;
  • cut a hole of the appropriate diameter;
  • fasten two parallel blocks to the wall so that the future socket can be installed on them;
  • fix the MDF board to the sheathing.

Frameless method: do-it-yourself cladding

The method is implemented when the walls of the room have a flat surface, or if one of the tasks of the repair is their careful alignment. Any MDF products can be used, but more often this method

Preparation

Before proceeding with the installation of MDF panels with glue, the surface is cleaned and primed. Most often, a primer with an antiseptic effect is used.

The slatted lamellas are cut to the required height, the corner is also cut off, the edges are processed sandpaper. Square panels are adjusted after fitting.

Adhesives used

The adhesive composition must satisfy two requirements:

  • After drying, maintain some plasticity to absorb the thermal expansion of the material.
  • Have a dense structure, which would allow the glue to be applied in both a thin and thick layer. This property makes it possible to properly attach the panel even in cases where the wall surface is curved.

Most often, “Liquid nails” and “Moment installation” are used, but there may be other options - “MitreFix”, “Moment Crystal”.

Installation of cladding: sequence of actions

  1. It is recommended to start covering from the corner towards the window opening.
  2. Horizontal and vertical markings are made on the wall according to the size of the panels.
  3. Glue is applied to the back of the slab in zigzag strips.
  4. The panel easily presses against the wall and is immediately removed.

After 2–5 minutes it is fixed tightly. This way a stronger connection is achieved. The first lamella must be checked with a vertical level.

  1. The slabs are laid end-to-end or overlapping.
  2. In areas where it is planned to install sockets and switches, holes are pre-made in the panel.
  3. The corners and upper edge are sealed with a universal corner, the lower edge with a plinth.

Finishing nuances: processing joints and corners

A universal corner is used for finishing corners. It consists of two plates made of chipboard and connected on the front side with a film.

The strips can bend both inward and outward, which allows the element to be used to decorate any corners.

  1. The corner is cut required length. Docking, if the top edge is being decorated, is done at an angle of 45 degrees.
  2. It is recommended to apply glue to the glue in two stages: light pressing so that the composition is distributed both over the cladding and on the surface of the corner, and then firmly with pressure.
  3. Remains of glue, if they do appear, are cut off with a painting knife after complete hardening. They are difficult to remove with cleaning agent or solvent.

Joints are finished in exactly the same way, if such a need arises. However, in this case it is necessary to carefully select the element by color.

Finishing MDF boards does not apply to work high level complexity and requires not so much experience as careful execution.

From an aesthetic point of view, it is not recommended to decorate both the ceiling and the walls of the room with slabs at the same time. Styles that involve such a solution are not implemented in city apartments. But for a balcony or loggia this is a completely acceptable option.

This information is intended for those who want to quickly and cheaply decorate MDF walls on their own, or for those who simply want to broaden their horizons. By studying this article, you will understand that finishing it yourself is not very difficult. After all, the installation is alternately painted and shown in the form of photographs.

MDF material is wood waste (shavings) mixed with a special adhesive solution and put under pressure.

This structure of the material makes it similar to boards, but at the same time is significantly different. For example, high processing temperature wood waste in the production of particle boards, it allows you to avoid adding various resins and other negative chemical compounds to the gluing mixture.

Despite this, they have excellent technical indicators, as a result of which they are widely in demand today.

Let's take a closer look

Interestingly, this material is used for finishing works all surfaces, from ceiling to floor. On the other side, this type materials are much more common in various administrative premises and public places. Perhaps people do not use it for their home due to the lack of home warmth and comfort of this material.

Advantages of MDF

The advantages of this finishing material include several qualities.

  • One of the main advantages is the ease and accessibility of installation.
  • As a result, to carry it out it is not necessary to have this process.
  • In addition, installation of this material does not require special preparation of the wall surface, since installation is the final point.
  • It is also worth noting that during the installation process there is not a lot of dirt and dust.
  • Repairs, including dismantling the damaged panel and installing a new one, are quite simple and will not take much time.
  • Today, there are also requirements for heat and sound insulation, which for this finishing material is quite good.
  • As for caring for them, it is very simple; for example, you just need to wash them with warm water.
  • Also, don’t forget about long term service combined with environmental friendliness of the material.
  • And finally, it’s worth saying a few words about the texture and color of MDF panels, which is quite wide and imitates different materials from wood to stone.
  • At the same time, the cost of this type of material varies widely.

Flaws

Along with the advantages, they also have some disadvantages. For example, this finishing material,

  • not very resistant to high humidity, and is deformed. At the same time, manufacturers are working on this drawback, and now there are special moisture-resistant particle boards that are intended for finishing rooms such as the kitchen and bathroom. This material is also suitable for finishing a house or cottage.
  • It is also worth noting the low strength, which is less than others finishing materials, in particular laminate. Yes, that's enough swipe the ball may well deform our finishing slab.
  • And finally, this finishing material burns well; therefore, experts recommend placing electrical wiring in special protective boxes (fire-resistant).

Installation

The installation process will require equipment such as special wiring boxes, a screwdriver, edge profiles, gluers, screws, and so on. In general, the installation process does not require special skills, but knowing the little tricks will allow you to carry it out as efficiently as possible.

Preparation for installation

  • And so, before you start finishing, it’s worth removing wallpaper that is swollen or simply does not hold tightly.
  • After that, treat the surface of the walls with a special raster primer. The fact is that this solution prevents the proliferation of fungi, which often appear in voids.
  • To increase the thermal insulation of walls, you can use insulation and cover all the walls with it. Some types, for example, are attached to the wall using an adhesive solution, and the thickness of the insulation can be 0.5 cm. As a rule, similar insulation materials glued end to end. It is worth noting that the sparkling side of the insulation is glued directly inside.

Installation of MDF wall panels

Let's look at the first example of finishing, in which they are installed in a standard bullfighting room three-room apartment, in a multi-story building. Considering the fact that there are no external walls, additional insulation is not required. Installation work must begin from the ceiling.

  • To determine the lowest angle in the room, you should use a building level and draw a horizontal line exactly 5 cm below, which will directly determine the position of the upper UD profile.
  • To attach it you should use quick installation. Sometimes wooden slats are used as a frame, but this is not always effective. The fact is that if the wood is even slightly damp, then for some time it can become deformed during the drying process.


  • Next comes the stage of attaching the suspensions to the ceiling surface, and they should be approximately 60 - 70 cm apart from each other. To attach them, you can also use quick installation, the parameters of which range from 4 to 6 cm. Of course, before this you should do the necessary holes on top.

  • After that, the SD profile is mounted on the suspensions.


Interestingly, such a base allows you to install any type of finishing materials such as plastic, plasterboard or chipboard. As for slabs made of compressed sawdust, it is better to use clamps and screws for their installation.

Remember, first lay out all communications (electrical wiring, etc.), and only then install the panels.

  • On one side the material should be attached with self-tapping screws, and the other end is fixed with gluers. Interestingly, the gluers are attached to the frame using bugs. By following this technology, you can quickly and easily cover the entire surface of the ceiling.


  • If you want to mount spotlight, then a hammer drill with special crowns will help you with this, which will make required hole in this panel.


  • Next comes the turn lighting fixtures, the installation of which is described in more detail by their manufacturer.


  • As for the installation of wall panels, you should not forget about special boxes for electrical wiring.

  • The next step is to create the base of the frame. Here again you can use hangers that are fixed on the surface of the walls.
  • And the SD profile is already installed on them.
  • The top and them are directly separated by the UD profile.

Regarding the location horizontal profile, then here you should focus on those places that are most often exposed, for example, in the knee, shoulder, and so on. The distance between this profile should be maintained at 60-70 cm.

MDF panels are widely popular in the field of interior design. Consumer interest in this finishing material is explained by its low cost, excellent decorative qualities and environmental friendliness. Another important advantage is that wall cladding with MDF panels does not require any special construction knowledge and skills, therefore, it is possible to save on services professional craftsmen. All work can be easily done with your own hands, you just need to show basic care and prepare necessary set tools.

Purchase of finishing materials and additional elements

Before purchasing panels, it is necessary to take measurements of the room that will be finished. When selecting material, you should focus not only on the squaring of the surfaces, but also on the dimensions of the panels themselves, taking into account possible waste. Also count the number of external and internal corners in the room in order to purchase special finishing corners that match the color of the selected panels.

The finishing corners are thin MDF strips pressed with protective and decorative film. Folding lengthwise, they form an internal or outside corner any radius. Finishing with applied laminated corners allows you to hide corner connections panels and give a finished look to the room.

In addition to finishing materials, you also need to acquire wooden slats or special metal profiles for installation of sheathing. The choice of these materials will depend on the layout of the room itself.

Sheathing internal partition walls carried out without additional insulation, so they are quite suitable for lathing wooden blocks 50x40 mm. If you plan to finish external walls, then it is more advisable to purchase metal CD and UD profiles or 40x40 timber, which will create space for the placement of heat-insulating material in the gap between the wall and the panels. If profiles are used, special U-shaped brackets will also be needed.

The number of elements for the sheathing is calculated based on the fact that the distance between them should be on average 0.4-0.5 m. In addition, you need to stock up on self-tapping screws of the appropriate length for installing the sheathing, as well as self-tapping screws, clamps or staples (if the sheathing is wooden) for fastening panel strips. You will also need socket boxes ( mounting boxes for drywall), if there is a need to install a switch or socket, and glue for decorative corners (for example, liquid nails).

However, all these additional elements may not be needed if interior walls have a perfectly flat surface and are not expected to dismantle the panels after a short period of time. In this case, their installation can be done in a simple way gluing. Liquid mounting nails are perfect for this purpose.

A set of tools for covering walls with MDF panels with your own hands

  • screwdriver or Phillips screwdriver (for self-tapping screws);
  • perforator (for making holes in concrete walls) or drill (for plaster, wood, brick and other walls);
  • bench square (for precise marking of corners);
  • sawing tool for MDF panels and slats: jigsaw (with a fine wood file), hand-held circular saw or regular saw hand saw with fine teeth (you can use a hacksaw);
  • grinder or metal scissors (for cutting metal profiles);
  • any type of building level or homemade plumb line for proper vertical installation of panels;
  • furniture stapler (if necessary).

Installation technology

MDF panels are rigid strips of a certain thickness, width and length, with locking joints. It is impossible to make radius bends using this material. They can only cover flat surfaces (walls, ceilings, slopes).

If you install the panels yourself on the lathing, no special preparation of the walls is required, i.e. there is no need to clean them of old paint, plaster or wallpaper.

Manufacturing of sheathing

Initially, it is necessary to determine the so-called control point. To do this, you need to examine the wall for protruding areas. The most protruding place will play the role of a starting point, focusing on which, the sheathing elements are fixed to the level.

Depending on the design idea, panel strips can be positioned vertically, horizontally or diagonally, and the installation of slats or profiles is carried out in a direction perpendicular to the panels.


The slats or beams are attached in increments of 40-50 cm. It is not recommended to increase the distance between them, because the structure will lose rigidity and may bend. If there are differences in height on the surface, use pads of the required thickness to level out the depressions.


Properly made metal frame

The technology for arranging lathing from profiles is somewhat different from the “wooden” version. In this case, a frame of UD profiles is initially installed along the perimeter of each wall. The distance from the wall surface should correspond to the thickness of the insulation. Then the locations of the transverse CD profiles are marked. U-shaped brackets are attached along the marking line with a pitch of approximately 40 cm. CD profiles are inserted into the starting UD profiles, after which they are fixed with brackets using metal screws.

Paneling

If the project provided for thermal insulation of the wall, then immediately between the sheathing elements, strips of insulation are laid and secured. Along the way, electrical cables are laid inside the structure and taken out beyond the sheathing, so that after installing the panels, their length allows for connecting sockets or switches.

Installation of panels starts from the corner and continues along the surface of the wall. Each previous strip is carefully attached to the sheathing pieces through the tongue groove, after which the next panel is inserted into the lock. If the last strip does not fit entirely in width, it will have to be cut. Fastening is done along the edge, so that later the fastening elements can hide the decorative corner.


In the places where sockets and switches will be located, holes are made during the work using special nozzle on the drill into which the wires are routed.

Several methods are used to attach panels to the sheathing:


Finishing a room with MDF panels using the adhesive method is carried out by dotted or zigzag application of special glue over the entire area of ​​the strip. Before gluing the panels, the walls must be treated with a deep-penetrating primer and allowed to dry. A few seconds after applying the glue, the strip is carefully pressed and fixed to the wall.


All the technologies described above are also applicable for the construction of slopes. If the slopes are small, then it will be enough to build a sheathing frame around the perimeter, without transverse elements.

At the last stage, the outer and inner corners of the room are finished with finishing decorative corners, which are fixed with glue. Corners can also be placed around the perimeter of the ceiling instead of a ceiling frieze.

At the locations of electrical points, special boxes are installed and sockets or switches are installed.

MDF is one of the most popular finishing materials today. In many respects, this is due to its comparative low cost, but for many consumers, the installation process looks much more important. If you can install the finish yourself, this is already a huge plus.

That is why, in this article, we decided to talk about how to attach MDF panels to the wall, and even if you are one hundred percent confident in your abilities, we strongly recommend that you read this material to the end and watch the videos posted in this article.

Preparatory work

Any repair, including attaching MDF panels to the wall, begins with careful and thoughtful preparation. You need to take into account a lot of nuances, and first of all calculate the amount necessary materials. Fortunately, today it is much easier to do this than 10 years ago; you just need to use a calculator on one of the construction sites on the Internet.

Important! Calculating materials using an online calculator may have an error, which can be compensated for by simply adding 10 percent to the result. This way, you will not only accurately guess with required quantity, but also leave a reserve in case of defects during the installation process.

It is not difficult to calculate the number of panels yourself, but only if the room in which the renovation is planned has straight walls, without communications and architectural delights. So, everything has been purchased and delivered, in principle you can start working, but there is one small trick - before attaching the MDF panels to the wall, they need to lie down room temperature at least 24 hours open form, that is, removed from the packaging.

This is necessary for the material to gain moisture and produce all the deformations that inevitably occur when changing temperature regime. In the meantime, our panels are getting used to the new room, it’s time to prepare the tool. It is very important that everything you need is at hand; often it takes much more time to find a hammer or nail than to do the repair itself.

To simplify your task with preparing the tool, we present full list what may be needed during the installation process.

Set of tools

So:

  • Tape measure and pencil for marks. This one important tool should always be in your arsenal home handyman, and moreover, be at hand. During the entire repair, you will have to use them more than once, so it is better if they are always in your pocket.
  • A hacksaw for wood, but with a fine tooth. If possible, this tool can be replaced with a jigsaw, but if your repair is not planned in a huge room, then it is simply pointless to buy it. MDF panels and sheathing material are easy to cut by hand, and it does not require special physical strength.
  • Building level. A simple tool that no repair can be done without. In the arsenal of professional builders there are high-tech laser levels, but you don’t see it often in the everyday life of a home craftsman. The fact is that the price of this tool can reach 10 thousand rubles or more, so buying it for one repair is simply not profitable.
  • The neighbors' threat is the hammer drill. A very loud tool, but without it you are unlikely to be able to drill holes in a stone wall. You will also need a drill for the hammer drill, and it is better if it has a diamond tip.
  • Construction stapler. If you are still unfamiliar with this tool, now is the time to get acquainted. In many situations, it can replace a hammer and nails, and working with it is much easier and more convenient. You simply apply the gun to the mounting location and press the handle, and the metal bracket itself penetrates the base and fastens the materials.
  • Hammer. They say that any repair can be done with just a hammer and a strong word. Whether this is true or not, we will not say, but it is a fact that fastening MDF panels to the wall cannot be done without it.

So, the entire tool is prepared, and you can rest a little before the next stage, but for now we suggest you watch how to attach MDF panels to a wall video, so that you understand from the very beginning what to expect in the future.

Preparing the base

Our panels are still getting used to their new location, and now is the time for us to start preparing the walls.

Instructions for attaching panels include two options:

  1. Attach the panels directly to the wall. Let’s say right away that this option is not suitable for us, and most often it is offered to their uninformed clients by careless and extremely lazy workers. Over time, such a finish will begin to collect moisture, and for MDF this is certain death, and sooner or later, you will understand that the repair needs to be completely redone.
  2. On the prepared sheathing. This is the only way to protect the panels from moisture. MDF is mounted at a distance from the wall, so this finish lasts much longer. Next, we will describe exactly this option, and if at some point the workers try to convince you that the sheathing is not important, just look for other performers, these are clearly trying to deceive you.

Preparing the walls begins with removing the old finish, and the more thoroughly it is removed, the better the base will be. There is no need to expose the wall right down to the brick; just remove it old paint or wallpaper (see How to remove wallpaper from walls correctly and without pain).

This is very easy to do with the help of a plaster spatula, and if in some places the paint stubbornly refuses to leave its place, just leave it there, which means it has become familiar with your walls and will not interfere with new repairs.

The next stage is priming. It is necessary in order to protect the walls, and subsequently the entire finish, from the appearance of mold, which inevitably forms due to the constant accumulation of condensation. Primers and impregnations penetrate deeply, in this case they work as antiseptics, that is, they do not allow fungus and mold to spread.

The option of surface cladding using MDF panels is currently gaining popularity. The reason is that with their help you can quickly carry out facing work over a large area. An additional plus is that when working with them, the wall will not require additional finishing in the future. It is also worth noting that decorating walls with panels yourself is doubly economical.

An important advantage of the panels is that their installation is simple and understandable to everyone, and anyone can install them.

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MDF - what is it?

MDF - fine faction From this faction are being manufactured wall panels for interior decoration. The manufacturing stages are as follows: wood shavings, fine in composition granules, are sent under a dry press. An important point is processing using high temperature and high pressure.

In order to bind the particles together and make the panel monolithic, special resins (usually urea) are added to it, which are modified with melamine.


An undoubted advantage in choosing MDF panels is that they belong to the class of highly environmentally friendly materials. According to the principle of installation and installation, use in home interior finishing using MDF panels is reminiscent of the process of working with lining. However, such panels are cheaper in price.

Installation is usually carried out in two ways - by mounting on a lathing, which acts as a frame, or by mounting on a wall using various adhesives or “liquid” nails.

Such compositions are used when installing wooden materials, as well as when sealing various holes and cracks, because their structure contains filler in the form of sawdust.

The main thing is to choose an adhesive composition that matches the color, since otherwise the areas of “grease” will stand out inharmoniously against the general background.

It should also be noted that MDF plates are made in a huge range of colors and tones and can have patterns of different relief structures. You can find imitation stone. All this suggests that such panels can be suitable for almost any interior. Their undeniable advantage is that during installation the panels can be combined in both vertical and horizontal positions.


It is worth noting that often, when the room seems not high enough, the vertical arrangement of the panels on the wall will help to visually “grow” the finished wall. For tall but narrow rooms, all recommendations are exactly the opposite.

It is important to take into account when choosing that such panels are produced in different formats (length and width), so first of all we need to decide what result we want to see in the end.

Required Tools

For convenience and ease of finishing work, it is recommended to prepare and collect the tools necessary for the work in advance. They will speed up the installation of panels and make it quite easy. So, we need:

  1. A jigsaw or a special saw that will allow you to cut vertically.
  2. Ordinary bubble level.
  3. Measuring tools – rulers, angles, pencils and markers.
  4. Drill or ordinary screwdriver.
  5. Stapler (preferably a construction one).
  6. Hammer.
  7. Pliers.


Main rules for installing panels

Installation of MDF panels on any surface is carried out in two ways - using adhesives and installing a frame.

Both of the installation options can easily be used for finishing MDF panels in both private houses and simple residential apartments. When working with adhesive compositions, it is important to take into account one important nuance - the surface of the wall for cladding must be perfectly flat and smooth. In this case, it is recommended to first carry out the work using plasterboard or using plasters or putties.

When installing panels using adhesive compounds as additional materials Only adhesives or “liquid” nails and some elements of fittings will come out.

For cases where it is necessary to hide communications under MDF panels or insulation, it is better to use the option of installing lamellas on a frame base. In addition, such a frame can be made from any, even the most uneven surface an ideal plane that will become an important foundation for reliable installation MDF panels.

The frame itself can be assembled from bars (wooden) or profiles (metal). It should be noted that fastening the panels to wooden frame much easier than with metal. In the case of wood, regular nails or staples from a construction stapler will do. For metal frame Self-tapping screws will be required, which necessitates the use of an additional tool - a screwdriver.


When a frame is used, a gap is formed between the wall and the cladding; wires, pipes can be removed into it, or insulating materials can be laid. However, it should be understood that such gaps, dark and sometimes damp, are attractive to fungal colonies such as mold. So it is very important to dry the wall before the installation process, if it is wet, and additionally treat it with special protective compounds, in order to avoid the formation of fungi.

So, to build the frame we will need:


Preparing the surface

You can start preparing the surface only when it has been previously dried (of course, if such a measure is required and the wall in the room is damp). We have already emphasized earlier why this is important. The main thing is to never carry out facing work on top of a damp wall.

The process of preparing the walls itself consists of the following simple steps:

  • Cleaning the wall. When the surface is covered with wallpaper, it is important to remove it, because in a confined space old wallpaper will become a very attractive environment for the appearance and proliferation of fungi and mold, and sometimes insect pests. If the wallpaper is glued well enough, you will first have to wet it or steam it using the same clothes iron; then removing it will not be difficult if you use an ordinary spatula. In rare cases, it may be necessary to use special staff, which will help get rid of the wallpaper layer. In case the wall is plastered or well painted water-based paints, cleaning work can be skipped.


  • Surface treatment. In cases where your wall has already been attacked by mold or other types of fungi, or perhaps insects, it is recommended to thoroughly treat it. It is advisable to use compositions such as “anti-mold” or “whiteness”. Before the processing process, you can scrape the surface with a spatula. After applying antiseptics and healing compounds to the wall, it is recommended to go over the wall again with a spatula, and then repeat the treatment process. Ideal option will be like this when the affected surface is cleaned to the ground: all traces of fungi or insect activity are completely removed.

It is important to understand that it is better to carry out such work when using means personal protection such as respirators or masks. Indeed, in case of unintentional inhalation of plaster particles or suspensions affected by fungus, unpleasant health consequences can occur.

  • Treatment of cracks. If, after removing the wallpaper layer or poorly applied plaster, cracks are found on the surfaces, it is recommended to carry out work to eliminate them. This procedure is especially important if it is planned to place under MDF panels thermal insulation materials or soundproofing. It is important to understand that unsealed cracks can become “bridges” for the entry of cold into the room, creating factors favorable for the formation of mold, such as dampness and darkness. In order for the layer of plaster or putty to adhere well, it is recommended to widen the crack a little and, if possible, deepen it. Next you need to get rid of traces old plaster and treat the crack using a deep penetration primer. After the primer has dried, the cracks are sealed with putty or plaster. It is important to fill the crack to its full depth.


  • Application of primer. When the first three steps are completed, you should start priming the entire surface. It is important to choose soil compositions so that they contain antiseptics. This choice will help prevent the formation of mold and fungi and protect against insects settling under the panels. In case of cladding wooden walls it is necessary to select a soil that also includes special fire retardants. They are designed to increase resistance to fire influences. It is important to remember that the primer is applied in two or three layers, each previous one must dry thoroughly before applying the next.
  • Installation of insulation. We go through this stage if the MDF is installed on the lathing. Penofol is ideal for this purpose; it is usually glued to a primed surface.

Frame installation process

It is important to install the frame correctly and correctly. First you need to decide how the frame elements will be installed - vertically or horizontally. For horizontal orientation, the guides are installed vertically, and vice versa for vertical orientation.

The frame is attached to a layer of insulation. You should choose a step between the guides of 5-6 centimeters. It is important to observe and control the evenness of the installation.

In order to determine the vertical (ideal), a plumb line is used. An ordinary level is suitable for determining horizontal lines. After marking it, it is not difficult to install our guides for future sheathing. It is important to consider that it is better to install the first guide in the corner of the room or along the floor area.


Installing MDF panels on a frame

When the frame is ready, and the communications are installed and hidden properly, we begin main process– installation of panels.

This work begins with the preparation of the panels themselves. With help measuring instruments A marking is made along which a cut is made using a jigsaw or an ordinary hacksaw.

It is important to remember that:

  1. The first MDF panel must be mounted at a level for ideal horizontal or vertical, otherwise the cladding and installation of other subsequent elements will be crooked and uneven.
  2. The starting panels are installed with tenons in the corners and secured with self-tapping screws. When using a metal frame, the clamps are secured with small self-tapping screws with a small head.
  3. The tenon of each new panel fits closely to the groove of the already installed one. Next, it is important to adjust the position of the panel using a level.
  4. Thus, the paneling is carried out to the end of the surface. It is recommended to fix the final panel using self-tapping screws. We will hide them in the future with the help of decorative corners.


Installation with adhesive solution

It is worth immediately noting that this option for installing panels is much simpler and lighter than the first, frame fastening method.

Particular attention should be paid adhesive compositions. They must meet certain requirements. Among them:

  1. The plasticity of the glue must be maintained even after its initial drying, otherwise deformation of the MDF panels is likely. It is important to choose a composition that is not afraid of moisture and temperature changes.
  2. The consistency of the composition should be thick in order to be able to apply it in a thin layer or a thicker layer.

“Liquid” nails, which can easily be found in any hardware store, ideally meet these requirements.

So, let's begin. Apply glue to the inner surface of the panel in a thin layer or in waves. After this, the panel is pressed tightly against the wall, torn off, left to stand for 5 minutes, and then pressed again to the required location. It will take half a minute to hold it in this position for secure fixation.


The finishing panel, if necessary, is measured and cut to fit right size. Last panel fixed with a self-tapping screw.

At the end of the work, we install the fittings. We attach pre-prepared corners and baseboards at the joints of planes and at doorways.

Advantages and disadvantages

Decorating walls with MDF panels yourself is good, but you should take into account the nuances.

Pros: ease of installation, variety of colors and textures, the ability to install communications when choosing a frame installation method, no additional finishing in the future, ease of maintenance, accessibility.


Minuses: the presence of protrusions and gaps; when choosing a frame, the formation of gaps between the wall and the lamella, which reduces the area of ​​the room, and also provides the opportunity for the development of fungus and mold - if the wall is not carefully treated, insufficient mechanical strength, minimal moisture resistance.

Bottom line

Now that you are so familiar with the features of MDF panels and the intricacies of their installation, all that remains is to make your choice of the most suitable lamellas for the design. Finishing MDF walls panels - a good choice for your home. Good luck! And let your home be beautiful and cozy.