Mechanical cleaver on a spring dimensions drawings. Wood splitter: selection and production of a homemade one, based on the need for firewood and operating mode. Making a wood splitter with your own hands

Before the start of the heating season, owners of wood-burning stoves and solid fuel boilers stock up on firewood. Buying or preparing logs in the forest and then bringing them to your own yard is not a big problem. Yes, and cut the round timber into logs using a chainsaw or circular saw will not be difficult. Many hours of exhausting labor creeps up in the form of a heavy cleaver, wedges and a hammer, with which the logs are split into logs.

Such an unproductive and labor-intensive method simply could not be ignored by home craftsmen trying to mechanize this work. One of the devices that can easily and quickly chop wood is cone splitter. Considering its simple design and the ability to use improvised materials in the work, we suggest making a mechanical screw cleaver with your own hands. In addition, everything that is required for this can be purchased in the online store of accessories for screw wood splitters at manufacturer’s prices. The catalog contains cones different diameters, fastenings and ready-made kits, which can only be attached to the walk-behind tractor or engine.

Screw cleaver - what is it?

The simple design of the cone log splitter is very effective if you need to chop several cubic meters of firewood

You can split wood without much effort using a screw splitting splitter. To understand how this device works, it is enough to remember how, in the process of unsuccessfully screwing a screw into wooden slats or a bar, these objects split at the point of physical impact. It’s easy to combat this phenomenon - just pre-drill a hole for the self-tapping screw, and it will go like clockwork. The principle of splitting wood when screwing in a screw was used by home craftsmen in the design in question. But a simple screw does not move the fibers apart enough, so it was modified by greatly increasing the taper and reducing the ratio of thread depth to tool diameter. The result is a screw, which is a symbiosis of a wedge and a self-tapping screw. The device is easily screwed into wood thanks to the threaded part and breaks it along the fibers due to the multiple increase in the diameter of the tool.

Screw log splitter diagram

Depending on the design of the drive, there are several types of screw splitters. In some, the screw is mounted directly on the shaft of the electric motor. In this case, the requirements for the power unit are quite stringent - the electric motor must be low-speed (no more than 500 rpm) and sufficiently powerful (at least 3 kW).

The scheme in which the cone is installed directly on the electric motor shaft is suitable only for low-speed power plants

In other screw splitting schemes, electric motors of any type are used, and a reduction in rotation speed is achieved through the use of mechanical gearboxes, belt and chain drives. In this case, a pulley (sprocket) of small diameter is installed on the shaft of the power unit, and a large one is installed on the shaft of the wood splitter cone. The ratios of their sizes are selected so as to reduce the rotation speed of the electric motor to an acceptable 300 - 500 rpm. Sometimes, when using high-speed motors, it is impossible to achieve this without significantly increasing the diameter of the driven sprocket (pulley). In this case, an intermediate shaft and a double (stepped) transmission are installed.

You can simplify the design of a mechanical cleaver as much as possible while maintaining high performance by installing an electric motor with a gearbox

All structural parts are mounted on a durable frame, which is equipped with a folding table for ease of work.

The advantages of cone splitters include:

• simplicity of design;
• the possibility of manufacturing at home (almost all components, except for the cone, can be found in your own backyard);
• high equipment performance;
• low installation cost;
• operation of the unit does not require operator qualifications.

Unfortunately, simple and reliable design screw cleavers are not without their drawbacks. A huge disadvantage of a cone log splitter is that wood with intertwined fibers is an insurmountable obstacle for its gimlet, so root and particularly knotty logs will have to be cut in a different way. The second drawback is the incomplete separation of the logs into logs. Often you have to finish cutting a large log into two separate parts by hand, and not everyone can do this. I would also like to note that it is impossible to make a log splitter cone without using a lathe. Of course, this can only be partially listed as a disadvantage, since there are many offers on the Internet for both the manufacture and sale of screws of any size.

Requirements for a cone splitter

The design of the screw splitter should ensure not only high reliability and performance, but also safety during operation. Therefore, when choosing the design of the unit and its manufacture, it is important to adhere to the requirements for equipment of this type and the recommendations of the craftsmen who have tested the machine in action.

Flexible transmission is a simple and affordable way to change the speed of rotation of the propeller when using high-speed electric motors

• the electric motor power should be in the range from 2 to 4 kW;
• to reduce the number of revolutions, it is recommended to use a gearbox or flexible transmission;
• rotation speed of the cone screw - no more than 500 rpm;
• the machine must be equipped with an on/off button (magnetic starter) and a residual current device (RCD);
• the cone shaft is mounted on bearing supports;
• the cone must have a persistent thread;
• at belt drive it is better to use double-strand pulleys and a pair of V-belts;
• During operation, the supply of logs must be carried out with their vertical orientation, otherwise the screw may jam and damage the installation.

You should not follow the lead of the “craftsmen” who offer the simplest design of a wood splitter, in which a shaft with a wedge-shaped screw is clamped into the chuck of a powerful electric drill or hammer drill. Such a device not only has low efficiency, but is also very dangerous, since it will not be easy to hold it in your hands with the increased resistance of the wood. If you still decide to use this scheme, then try to secure the tool on a solid base in order to use it in the traditional way.

To obtain a mobile design, an internal combustion engine is used to drive the machine

What is needed for making

Making an “iron lumberjack” does not require the use of scarce parts, so most components and blanks can be found at home or in the garages of friends and acquaintances. Here's what you'll need during the process:

• cone (you can grind the screw yourself or purchase it on the construction market);
• shaft (if you make your own threaded wedge, you can use a suitable hub from agricultural machinery);
• pulleys or sprockets;
• drive belt or chain from automobile or motorcycle equipment;
• bearings with housings (supports for car driveshafts are an excellent option);
• steel profile pipes or angles for the frame;
• metal sheet with a thickness of at least 4 mm for the desktop;
• electric motor;
• wiring;
• switch or magnetic starter;
• bolts and nuts M8 or M10.

Most parts can be used from old automobile or agricultural equipment. The only thing that may be difficult is making a conical screw. However, you should not even try to cut this part using a grinder, as some “authoritative” sources advise. The time spent is not worth the resulting misunderstanding, which can only indirectly be called a screw. Moreover, in operation this “carrot” will not even come one iota close to the efficiency that a cone made by turning will give.

Main components of a cone log splitter

If you plan to use the wood splitter as a mobile unit, then you should take care of durable metal wheels in advance. A truly mobile design is achieved using a gasoline or diesel engine as a power plant.

When making a machine, you will need tools that any “handy” owner will have:

• welding machine;
• electric drill with a set of drills;
• Bulgarian;
• hammer;
• set of wrenches;
• tape measure, marker.

Any enamel for exterior use is suitable for protection against corrosion. It is only important to thoroughly prepare the metal surface for painting, so if necessary, prepare a metal brush (manual, or in the form of an attachment for a drill or grinder), a primer and a rust converter.

Preparatory work: approximate dimensions and drawings

Before taking up the tool, it is important to draw up at least a simple sketch diagram with the location of the main components and parts of the machine and indicating its main dimensions. In addition, you will need a diagram electrical connections, to work on which you can connect a familiar electrician. The diagrams and drawings of finished structures presented to your attention will help you correctly configure the wood splitter and avoid mistakes in its manufacture.

Layout of a log splitting machine

The most important step in the process of creating a mechanical cleaver is making a wedge, so let’s look at this in more detail.

The best material for a cone is tool steel, but not every turner will undertake to make a part from it - the metal has increased hardness and requires special handling. Most likely, the screw will be made from the most popular brand structural steel - St 45. In this case, it is better to strengthen its threaded part with any in an accessible way- hardening, nitriding or carburization.

Long-term and efficient operation of the cone is ensured only when it is correct production. When placing an order with a turner, be sure to specify that you need a screw with a 1:2 taper and a persistent double-start thread with a pitch of 5 - 6 mm. Regular metric thread not suitable due to rapid wear. In addition, the standard screw thread fits into the wood much worse.

The size of the screw wedge and the amount of its taper are directly related to maximum size splitting logs, so when determining the parameters of the drill, you can use the table.

Table for calculating cone sizes

The approximate dimensions of the bed depend on the operator’s build and can be:

• height - up to 80 cm;
• width - up to 60 cm (with folding table 100 cm);
• length - up to 85 cm.

The most commonly used scheme is with a bottom-mounted electric motor. This will protect its rotating parts from chips and chips. If an internal combustion engine is used as the power unit, then it is installed at the same level as the wedge. This arrangement is more convenient both during startup and during operation, when it is necessary to adjust the rotation speed of the wedge, fill the tank with fuel, etc.

Cone mounted on the frame circular saw, eliminates the need to make another metal work table, makes the design universal and allows you to save space when storing equipment under a shed or in a shed.

In the process of designing a cone log splitter, they must provide a method for tensioning the chain or belt - using an additional sprocket or roller, slide, etc. A protective casing mounted on a chain or belt drive would also be useful. It can be bent from sheet metal and secured to the frame with screws.

Pay attention to how well the flexible transmission protection is arranged.

Step-by-step assembly instructions

After drawing up a drawing of the future design and preparing the necessary components and materials, you can begin assembling the mechanical cleaver. It is best to use ready-made instructions and carry out the work in strict accordance with the plan.

1. Using an angle grinder, metal corners and profile pipes are cut into the sections necessary for the manufacture of the frame.
2. From metal sheet A rectangular overlap of the table top and the bottom shelf are cut out with a thickness of 4 - 5 mm.

   Bed assembly

3. Using a welding machine, the parts of the upper and lower frame are connected, after which the legs are welded to them.
4. IN mobile version The axles on which the wheels are mounted are welded to the frame.

   Wheel mounting

5. Install the table top and shelf.
6. Assemble the electric motor support frame and attach it to the frame.
7. Mount the electric motor and install the drive pulley on its shaft.
8. The cone working shaft assembly is assembled, for which the bearings are pressed into the housings. After this, the shaft is mounted and the pulleys are installed. The assembled unit is secured to the frame with bolts and nuts, having previously drilled holes in the table top. Once assembled, the main shaft should rotate easily. The pulleys can be installed on a keyed connection or secured with side screws, having previously made recesses on the shaft.

   Installation of the main shaft and electric motor

9. Install the belts and check the straightness of their trajectory. If necessary, the shaft with supports is shifted by drilling a couple of additional holes. When rotating, there should be no radial and axial runout, otherwise the belts will constantly fly off and quickly wear out.

   Cone installation

10. Using a keyed connection, a screw cone is installed on the drive shaft, after which it is secured with screws. During operation, the cone may get stuck in the wood so that it can only be removed by reverse rotation. Since it is problematic to organize reverse in this design, you will have to turn the wedge using a gas wrench. You can avoid its slipping by making flats on the protruding part of the shaft.
11. Install the divider.

    The logs should be placed on the wedge in a vertical position. Otherwise, the screw may jam or break.

    You should be careful when splitting logs with large knots, as well as logs from the butt part of the round timber. The process in this case can go unpredictably - with jamming of the shaft, sharp rotation of the log, throwing large chips to the side, etc. An increased speed of rotation of the cone is also fraught with danger - too high speeds will not make it possible to control the work, so it is better if the number driven shaft revolutions will be within the recommended limits.

    To make a cone log splitter with your own hands, you will need minimal skills in working with plumbing tools. One day spent on its manufacture will pay off in the future by saving time and effort. It is only important to follow safety rules when chopping wood, and then this simple activity will not bring surprises.

Villagers who do not have the amenities familiar to city dwellers, and central heating, we have to heat our houses with traditional wood stoves. And firewood is things made of wood, that’s why they are called firewood. To load the stove with them, you need to cut a long log into logs, and they, in turn, split them into logs. You can chop wood with an axe, but it is much more convenient to use a homemade mechanical wood splitter for chopping.

The most labor-intensive stage of the entire firewood preparation process is splitting the logs. And for this purpose a tool such as a wood splitter is used. In Rus', a woodcutter was a person who chops wood for a stove with a cleaver or an ax. Of course, at the age of 20, 30 or 40, a man can easily cope with this. Take a good swing, hit hard - and that's it! But by the age of 50, even for a person accustomed to physical labor since childhood, it is no longer easy to swing a cleaver, and therefore the need arose for a device for chopping wood that could make the work easier.

Today it is easy to acquire a wood splitter. It can be bought in a store (similar tools are produced by many companies), but the average rural resident does not always have the means to purchase it.

In this case, there is only one way out - make this most useful device with your own hands, fortunately, you can find a great many photographs of a homemade wood splitter on the Internet.

Note! Mechanical wood splitters come in various types - manual, spring, cone. However, they all make work much easier (to a greater or lesser extent).

The nuances of splitting wood

So, we found out that firewood can be split different ways. As a rule, for this purpose, blows are made with an ax in order to split a sawn piece of log, and the blows are applied to the end.

A massive wedge (and the ax is shaped like a wedge) is driven into the log. If it is soft and without knots, then the wedge will go inside even with relatively little physical effort. The wood fibers will move apart under the influence of tangential forces, and the body of the log will split into two parts.

In the case of a small angle at the apex, the tangential forces will be smaller, but the wedge will penetrate deeper inside. However, the destructive force will not be enough, and the ax will jam in the crack that appears. And if the angle is less acute, the tangential forces will increase and the wood, as a result, will split.

On a note! The viscosity of wood will depend on a number of factors. It has been laboratory proven that the wedge angle at the apex for most wood species should be 25-30°. In this case, the chopping properties of the wedge-shaped tool will be the best.

If the wedge penetrates slowly, then the energy accumulated during the swing and subsequent impact is no longer the determining factor. In this case, the connections between the fibers are broken after certain values ​​are reached during implementation. According to research, optimal angle at the top for manual wood splitters it is 30-38°. Then the connections will be broken with less effort. Although some types of wood can “resist” - for example, cherry, elm, apple tree.

Pine, ash, oak and some other species split with a slight penetration of the wedge.

Important! The magnitude of the forces also depends on the length of the block. The shorter the log, the less resistance the wood will provide when splitting. As a rule, this length is determined by the depth of the firebox, because the firewood in the stove must be positioned in such a way that the door closes smoothly.

GOST 3243-88. Firewood. Specifications . Downloadable file (click the link to open the PDF in a new window).

Types of manual wood splitters

The most popular are manual wood splitters(they are also called kinetic), working on simple physical principles and not requiring special physical capabilities. Here are the main types of devices:

• crowbar(the log on which the cleaver is installed splits during a sharp forward movement using a special crowbar);

• spring(there is a lever of force, the method of a weighted working element is used);

• With manual drive (there is a special cabinet with a blade oriented upward on it. The log is placed on the blade and is easily split in two using, for example, a sledgehammer);
• rack and pinion(there is a special rack with notches, which is a pushing element).

If you often heat with wood, you have already repeatedly encountered the problem of procuring it. To simplify the process as much as possible, you can use manual mini-wood splitters - such as Greenween, Strela, Kolundrov. Such devices will help you quickly and efficiently split the most “complicated” logs, and even women (including the elderly) can operate them.

Important! When choosing a wood splitter, be guided by the volume of wood being harvested. Also give preference to proven and non-hazardous tools. Let's take a look at the mini wood splitters mentioned earlier.

Greenween

The device has basic and multifunctional modifications. But the device in both cases is identical: a wide blade made of high-strength steel is fixed to the frame. Ribs are melted onto the edges of the blade - special hard plates that separate the cracked log into parts.

Basic model differs from the multifunctional one in the diameter of the lumps that can be split. With the help of the second version of the device, you can cope with even the thickest blocks. It has a special semicircular plate into which the free end of the log rests.

The basic modification is equipped with a solid metal ring that acts as a side support. The inner diameter of the ring indicates the maximum thickness of the chocks. The Greenween wood splitter is carefully designed and ergonomic, and therefore working with it is easy and not tiring. It weighs 5.7 kg, its height is only 35 cm. The multifunctional version of the tool weighs even less - 4.8 kg.

"Arrow"

This hand tool, something between a construction crowbar and a splitting axe. As a result, it can be used for many purposes, not just for chopping wood. For example, for knocking down ice or frost, for loosening frozen or dense soil during construction.

The design of the tool is telescopic, there is a working element (a long rod with a handle) and a striking element (a pointed cone at the bottom). The handles are rubber, so the tool does not slip during use. The principle of work itself is simple: the rod rises and falls on the log, causing it to split.

Using the "Arrow" you can split very heavy and thick logs. The tool is easy to use and works great on soft wood. As for other advantages, these include:

• small sizes;
• reduction of applied physical force during work;
• versatility (we talked about this above).

But there are disadvantages, including:

• unattractive appearance;
• load on the lower back (this is not going away);
• high risk of injury (the wedge can slip off the log - usually of small diameter, and chips or the log itself can bounce off);
• the appearance of calluses (even despite the fact that the handles are rubber).

Kolundrov

This is an alternative to Strela, but safer to use. Kolundrov has high performance, looks quite nice and is safe to use. The lower part is stable, it has holes for fastening, thanks to the metal ring on top, chips and split logs do not fly off to the sides, which means they cannot injure a person.

With the help of sharpened knives, even knotty and wet logs can be easily broken.

Table. Average market prices for popular manual wood splitters in 2019-2020.

Features of spring log splitters

A spring-type wood splitter is considered to be a simple-to-use, economical, reliable, and inexpensive tool. It is the result of the modernization of traditional cleavers. When operating a spring log splitter, muscle force is also applied, but to a lesser extent, thanks to the additional load, large lever and the spring mechanism itself.

On a note! You can make this wood splitter yourself. The structure in this case will consist of a profile or metal pipe(this will be a lever with a knife at the end), an iron stand and a hinge-type connection. As return mechanism you can use the old shock absorber.

Let's look at an example of how to make a simple spring wood splitter yourself.

Spring wood splitter. Step-by-step manufacturing instructions

First, prepare everything necessary tools- in our case it is:

• grinder (as well as cleaning and cutting discs for it);
• tools for marking and measuring;
• welding machine (fortunately, current inverter machines weigh little, are easy to use and allow you to obtain neat welds).

Also prepare the following supplies:

• shock absorber from a passenger car;
• channels;
• steel pipes (diameter from 4 cm to 7 cm);
• profile pipe 3x6 cm (4x6 cm);
• bushing from a car suspension (worn is allowed);
• rail (30-40 cm);
• corner;
• I-beam (No. 12-16).

Step 1. To begin, prepare a sketch of the future design. If possible, you can use a special engineering design program that allows you to work out all the details. Here is a rough diagram of the future wood splitter.

Step 2. Make a support from a channel, weld a stand to it (the latter is best made from an I-beam, which is highly rigid; such a stand will be difficult to bend even under prolonged loads). For greater stability, weld the jibs to the base. Also, additionally make stops from the pipes to prevent a possible fall of the wood splitter.

Step 3. Take a channel and cut out a support for the spring. Cut a square hole in the support, thanks to which the element will be securely fixed to the stand.

Step 4. As for the installation height of the support, it depends on the length of the spring used. Also focus on the height of the entire structure and how convenient it will be to use. Thus, it is most convenient to lift the load when it is at waist height (it will rise slightly above the chest).

Step 5. Make the jibs necessary to hold the support from the corners. Thereby bearing surface will not move when the device is dynamically loaded.

Step 6. Make a cylindrical clamp to secure the bottom of the spring, which will require a small piece of pipe. When choosing the diameter of the pipe, be guided by the internal diameter of the spring so that it does not move during operation.

Step 7 Make a slot in the top of the post, install the bushing there, and then weld the latter. It is important to maintain perpendicularity to the stand. Also make sure that the hub axis is parallel to the ground.

Step 8 Install the shaft into the sleeve. Weld a rocker arm from a channel to it, at the bottom of which install a small piece of pipe. This pipe is necessary to fix the upper part of the spring.

Step 9 Cut a “window” in the rocker, the dimensions of which depend on the size of the rack itself. Thanks to this, the rocker will move freely.

"Window" in the rocker

Step 10 Weld profile pipe to the rocker, install the chisel on one end. By the way, the chisels are made of hard carbon steel U9 or U10, and therefore the element will last a long time. Then, during operation, the chisel can be easily sharpened using a grinder and a sharpening wheel.

Step 11 Our wood splitter is almost ready. Weld a piece of rail above the chisel, which will act as a weight. Also weld the handle to make it more convenient to use the wood splitter. It is advisable to put rubber elements on them - they will dampen vibrations.

Note! Lay a piece of log large diameter- it is necessary for work. Logs for splitting will be installed on it.

Step 12 Check the functionality of the wood splitter. Place the block of wood and, holding it with one hand, lift the cleaver and strike.

Step 13 The cleaver will go down, causing the log to split. If it splits completely, the chisel will go further, but will hit wooden support, and therefore will not become dull.

Video - Simple homemade wood splitter

Video - Spring log splitter

A simple manual wood splitter. Step-by-step manufacturing instructions

A simpler design, to create which you need to prepare:

• spring from a car;
• metal corner (40 or 50);
• a couple of corner pieces 55 cm long;
• another couple - 15 cm long.

Two corners of 5 cm each and two more of 15 cm each

Step 1. Take a long corner, mark it on it, stepping back 10 cm from the edges.

Step 2. Step back 1.5 cm from the corner itself.

Step 3. Mark the middle 5 cm, as in the photo below.

Step 4. After that, take a grinder and trim according to the markings.

Step 6. Cut the second long corner in the same way.

Step 7 As a result, you should end up with something like this.

Step 8 Now it's time to start working on the short corners. Take them. Long corners are welded to short corners. A hole is drilled in the round timber.

Step 12 Cut the round timber to the required length - it should be the same as the width between the corners.

The bushing needs to be welded to the spring. The pipe is welded to the spring. Assembling all parts

Video - Simple but effective wood splitter

How to organize the workflow?

Having built a homemade wood splitter, you can safely start chopping firewood. But to make the work easier, it is important to properly organize the entire process. So, the cut fragments should be located on one side at a distance of two or three steps (so as not to get too tired). It is recommended to put chopped firewood in a cart. It has a small volume; a maximum of 30-40 kg of firewood will fit into it.

After each cart is filled, transport the wood and place it on the woodpile. During transportation, by the way, there will be time to take a break from your main work, because a change of occupation is also a rest!

5 /5 (6 )

A wood splitter (also called a firewood harvesting machine) is a mechanism that is used to trim and mechanically split large logs into small logs that are convenient to use in everyday life.

The advantages of such a product are obvious:

• this is an excellent replacement for heavy mechanical labor chopping wood;
• the device lasts a very long time;
• the mechanism is simply designed - there are no complex elements in it, making it easy to maintain;
• The mechanism is mobile - it can be transported to different places.

Types of wood splitters

Wood splitters differ from each other in several ways. Depending on the work performed, there are 2 large classes of installations:

• wood splitter (also often called a cleaver) – it can only be used to split large logs into small logs; these mechanisms are mainly used at home;
• a wood splitting machine, which, along with the function of splitting logs, is capable of trimming blanks; more often used in industrial production.

According to the scope of application, wood splitters are distinguished:

• household (it is these wood splitters that are easiest to make with your own hands);
• industrial.

The mechanisms can work due to different types energies, according to which they distinguish:

There are wood splitters based on the characteristics of the workpiece supply:

Depending on whether the device can be moved, there are:

• mobile wood splitters (designed for small production volumes, as well as for household tasks);
• stationary (used on an industrial scale).

Finally, according to the principle of operation of the mechanism, they are distinguished:

Specifications

Wood splitters, made by hand or at the factory, as mechanisms, have their own parameters that characterize their production capabilities:

1. The splitting power is measured by the number of revolutions per minute; in industrial devices, 500-700 or more rpm is achieved.
2. The speed of movement of the piston is measured in centimeters per second (5-8 cm/sec).
3. The speed of the reverse movement of the piston (usually no more than 7-8 cm/sec).
4. Electric motor power (standardly achieved 1500-2000 W and above).
5. Working length is usually from half a meter to a meter.
6. Additional functions - wood splitters are often equipped with a 4-cut nozzle, due to which the productivity of the installation increases dramatically. Also, some models are equipped with a table lifting mechanism, which allows you to adjust optimal height working surface.

At home, it is quite possible to make both the simplest cone and hydraulic wood splitters with your own hands.

Benefits of home installation

Such installations, as a rule, are inferior to factory devices in terms of power and appearance. However, for small volumes of home production they are ideally suited. The advantages of home mechanisms are as follows:

• they are much cheaper than professional machines;
• they are easy to assemble from the most common materials;
• since the assembly is carried out independently, you can take into account all the features of the mechanism that you need, to suit your needs;
• By assembling such a product by hand, you will gain valuable experience that can be useful in other business matters.

Mechanism requirements

Basically, any wood splitters (both self-made and factory-made) must meet a set of minimum requirements:

• Engine power not less than 2 kW
• All stationary and moving elements are made of solid steel.
• The minimum distance from the floor to the cone is 80-90 cm.
• IN living conditions The number of revolutions per minute is 400-500.
• Dimensions are selected approximately; in the standard version they are approximately equal to 85 * 40 * 65 cm (length, width and height, respectively).

Making a screw log splitter: step-by-step instructions and video

The simplest version of a wood splitter that you can make with your own hands is a screw splitter.

The device can easily split logs of almost any diameter, as is clearly shown in the video.

To make it, you will need a minimum of tools and materials:

• steel frame (the base to which all elements of the installation will be attached);
• engine, the power of which is selected according to individual needs;
• reduction gear;
• cone-nozzle with thread (its drawing is presented below)

A schematic drawing of the device is presented below.

The sequence of actions will be as follows:

Video review that describes in detail the purpose of the part

NOTE. It is very important to select the drill size and the optimal cone angle. It is these factors that determine the size of the log; small cones may not be able to cope with some of them. An indicative table is presented below.

How to properly work with a screw splitter

Before you start working with the device, you need to run it at idle speed to make sure that all elements work without failures and the engine gains the required power.

When working with a screw wood splitter, you need to follow a few simple rules:

1. The block is brought to the mechanism in a vertical position.
2. The height of the working surface of the table must first be adjusted to the desired level. If necessary, a board is placed.
3. The block is brought in pressed to the surface (it is incorrect to work in weight).
4. If the chock is large, then the bark may interfere with splitting - it can be cut off first (this is especially true for birch bark).
5. If there are knots in the block, it has an uneven internal structure, it is better to start splitting from the place where the internal layers of the tree are simpler.

NOTE. If the drill is firmly embedded in the surface of the wood, but no splitting occurs, you must immediately turn off the device. The cone is removed manually or by turning it in the opposite direction using a gas wrench (the installation is first disassembled). Such cases occur rarely and are mainly associated with gnarled trees. It is better to help with manual splitting, and then process the lump again on a wood splitter.

Do-it-yourself hydraulic wood splitter: step-by-step instructions and video

Unlike screw hydraulic wood splitter It works completely automatically, and a person’s task is only to monitor the progress of the operation and correct the lumps in time, if necessary.

In this case, the block moves not due to human strength, but by a hydraulic mechanism. It can be connected to the tractor's power plant or another power source.

Video: do-it-yourself technology for assembling a hydraulic wood splitter mounted with a tractor.

A hydraulic splitter has more power and is therefore more difficult to manufacture than a cone splitter.

THIS IS INTERESTING. Using such a device of standard power, you can split approximately 7-10 logs per minute (correspondingly, up to 60 in an hour). You can compare this to the pace of manual production to feel the difference in time and effort.

A drawing of the device is presented below.

The following mechanisms will be needed:

• hydraulic pump;
• sleeves;
• mechanism engine (hydraulic pump drive) - can be either electric or gasoline powered;
• hydraulic tank, hydraulic distributor.

The schematic diagram is in the figure.

The performance of the entire system directly depends on the drive power - it is this parameter that should be focused on at the design stage of the mechanism.

In the very simple version the sequence of actions will be like this:

1. The hydraulic jack is rigidly fixed to the frame.
2. A wedge-shaped blade is installed at the opposite end of the frame, which will help to successfully split even large logs and logs with a complex internal structure (multi-layered, knotty).
3. The jack is connected to an engine - electric, gasoline or tractor traction.

The principle of operation of the device is that the press presses on the block, moves it towards the blade in the form of a wedge, and due to further mechanical pressure it splits against the wedge. In order for the jack to return to its original position, it is equipped with conventional springs. As a result, the entire process is fully automatic.

Features of the operation of a self-made gasoline-powered wood splitter:

Professional wood splitters: review of the champion lsh 5000 model

Along with the fact that it is quite possible to make a wood splitter with your own hands, you can also purchase factory model. Products typically offer greater power, durability, and performance.

Let's consider the features of operation and technical specifications devices using the example of a champion lsh 5000 wood splitter operating on an electric motor.

Specifications

The wood splitter is a hydraulic mechanism powered by electric traction with an engine power of 2700 W. Its main characteristics are as follows:

1. Dimensions of the chock: diameter from 50 to 250 mm, length up to 520 mm.
2. Product dimensions 950*280*520 cm (length, width, height, respectively).
3. Product weight 43 kg.
4. Oil volume 3.5 l.
5. Pressure in the hydraulic system (average) 20 MPa.

Device diagram

The components of the structure are presented in the diagram.

The numbers indicate:

1. A lever that controls the hydraulic drive.
2. Protective surface.
3. Pusher.
4. A plate that guides the movement of the tree.
5. Device for splitting lumps.
6. Transport handle.
7. Support elements.
8. Electric motor.
9. Lever to turn off.
10. Block with control elements.
11. Wheel.

The side view shows the bolt that allows you to control the oil level in the system (1), and the screw that provides air supply to the hydraulic system (2).

Terms of Use

The wood splitter is used for following conditions Wednesday:

• temperature range from +5 to +40оС;
• 1 load cycle lasts within 10 minutes;
• maximum operating time under conditions constant load– 4 minutes, after which there is a break for 5-6 minutes.

It is better not to use a wood splitter in extreme weather conditions ( severe frosts), as well as in places with constantly high air humidity.
To take into account electrical safety, grounding is done using:

• metal pipe (diameter from 50 mm, length from 1600 mm);
• metal rod with a minimum diameter of 20 mm, a minimum length of 1600 mm;
• sheet of iron coated with zinc, with dimensions from 900*400 mm.

NOTE. The use of residues from pipelines containing flammable liquids (oil, gasoline, etc.) as grounding conductors is not allowed.

Preparing the wood splitter for work

Before turning on for the first time, you need to make sure that the protection plate is correctly installed and mounted securely enough. Next you need to prepare the wood splitter for work:

1. First you need to inspect all elements of the equipment to make sure there are no bolts, nuts and other foreign elements.
2. If faulty parts are found, it is better to replace them.
3. The mechanism is installed on a flat surface approximately 50-70 cm high from the floor. The work area should be wide enough.
4. Make sure that the wood splitter is secure and does not swing; if necessary, ensure its stable position using available means.
5. Before starting work, you need to slightly loosen the position of the air plug (screw) so that air can flow into the oil tank. At the end of the work, the screw is accordingly tightened back.
6. Before starting work (especially after a long break), you need to make sure that the device is functioning normally - to do this, you need to let it idle for 1 minute. If there are no extraneous sounds or noises, you can start working.

Features of working with a wood splitter

During work you need to follow several rules:

NOTE. Knocking out a stuck block with a hammer, axe, crowbar and other similar objects is quite risky - such actions can lead not only to damage to the working surface of the device, but also to its accidental startup. In this case, the wood splitter may fail, and such a breakdown cannot be repaired with your own hands.

Change of oil

Along with periodic inspections and replacements of failed mechanism elements, maintenance of the wood splitter involves timely oil changes. This should be done in this order:

NOTE. During operation, it is important to regularly check the oil level. The reference position is between two grooves on the bolt surface.

Possible faults

type of problem	probable reasons	remedial measures
wood does not split	incorrect position of the chock	The block should be placed flat on the work surface
	the chock exceeds the permissible dimensions	you need to take a log of a different size or reduce the block
	the blade of the cleaver is worn out	sharpen the blade
the pushing element does not move evenly, but with jerks, extraneous noises are heard	insufficient amount of hydraulic oil	check the level and add until the oil reaches the line between the grooves of the control bolt
	Air has accumulated in the hydraulics	bleed air from the system
the engine runs normally, but the cleaver does not move	valve does not open	check. how does the valve work
	levers are deformed	give them the correct shape or replace them with new ones

You can clearly see how to work on this model of wood splitter with your own hands:

Harvesting firewood requires considerable effort: it needs to be sawed, split, and stacked to dry. Most of the effort goes into chopping wood. A wood splitter can make the process easier and faster. They are presented in sufficient quantities, but cost a lot of money. At the same time, you can make a simple wood splitter with your own hands from scrap metal - pipes, corners, etc. Everything will require literally several thousand - if there is no metal, you will have to buy it.

Mechanical wood splitters

If the volumes of firewood harvesting are small, it can be easily handled mechanical wood splitter. They are distinguished by their simplicity of design, a minimum number of complex components, and also by the fact that the costs are minimal, even if the farm does not have suitable hardware.

Simple DIY wood splitter: mechanics

The simplest mechanical wood splitter resembles a well crane. The design is one to one, only instead of a bucket a cutter and handles are attached. The connection between the rack(s) and the crossbar can be made as simple as possible - hinged. All you need is good lubrication.

The principle of operation is probably clear to everyone. The block of wood is placed on a stand, the lever is sharply pulled down, due to the force of inertia, the cutter gains significant force and splits the block of wood. The process is repeated until logs of the required thickness are obtained.

It’s easy to assemble such a mechanical wood splitter with your own hands, literally, from what you have - pipes, a corner of any size, you can even use an ax as a cutter. In addition, such a design can be made collapsible so that it can be moved.

There are many disadvantages. Chopping wood requires a lot of effort. Moreover, more effort is put into stopping the progress of the cleaver after the log has fallen apart. The second disadvantage is that such a wood splitter takes up a significant area, because the longer the lever, the less effort you need to put in. However, even such a primitive mechanical device greatly reduces the complexity of the process.

One option is for the cleaver to be welded to square pipe, filled with concrete

In this design, the cleaver must be heavy. Therefore, the blade itself is welded to an all-metal blank. A more affordable option is to weld it to a pipe (round or square) and fill it with concrete. Agree, anyone who knows how to handle wood can make such a wood splitter with their own hands.

Spring log splitter

There is a modified design of a manual mechanical wood splitter, which, with a smaller size, chops wood better and requires less effort. In this model, the main working unit is a spring, which is fixed to the frame, and its upper part rests against a stationary crossbar on which the cleaver is fixed.

In this design, the main force - to hold the cleaver after the log has split - is taken by the spring. Accordingly, the main thing is to select the spring and stop so that minimal effort is applied, but they are sufficient to split even complex, knotty blocks. The spring support can be made movable. Then you can adjust the parameters to specific conditions. In reality, “reconfiguration” is required for a specific person. If one person will work with the tool, then you can do everything stationary, selecting the height experimentally.

It is equally important to make a movable joint between the frame and the lever on which the cleaver is attached. The best option is bearings. They must be of high quality, preferably self-leveling.

The minimum height of a homemade wood splitter is about 800 mm. But then you will either have to work bending over, or install the machine on a table/bed. A more comfortable option that requires minimal effort is one made to fit your height. Determine at what height it is convenient for you to have the log standing, add the height of the log itself to this figure, and get the height of the bed. In this case, you will also have to bend over, but only when you place the block on the stand, and not every time the cleaver is lowered.

You can work with one hand or come up with a clamp for installing logs (more secure) Movable joint assembly and spring attachment - several options

To add mobility structures, a frame is welded, with wheels attached on one side and stops welded on the other. Making such a wood splitter with your own hands is somewhat more difficult, but if you have a spring and bearings, this is such a difficult task.

Vertical inertial wood splitter

Another easy option for self-made. To make such a wood splitter with your own hands, you need two pipes of a larger and smaller diameter. You will also need a heavy plate - the base, and, in fact, the piercing part - the cutter/cleaver.

The design is one of the simplest, requiring little effort. A thick-walled pipe, or better yet, a pin, is fixed to a massive platform. Height is about a meter. This is the lead pipe. A cleaver moves freely along it, which is welded to the pipe rings slightly larger diameter than the lead pipe. He chops wood in the following way: lift the cleaver up and release it. You can accelerate down a little. Due to gravity, the log splits.

A heavy cleaver is the key to success in this model

But this mechanical wood splitter does not immediately split all the logs. To increase its effectiveness, you can add a weight to the cleaver. It can be “added” if necessary. The second option is to hit the column a couple of times with a hammer. This method is good if the cutter is stuck in the wood. An alternative is to lift the log together up and lower it sharply. But it's easier to swing a hammer.

Electric wood splitters

A manual wood splitter, of course, makes it easier to prepare firewood, but it still requires considerable physical effort. Not as much as they are spent waving a regular cleaver, but still... The electric motor helps make the effort even less. Wood splitters are made on its basis various designs. But making such a wood splitter with your own hands is more difficult. Here the device is more complex, and at least minimal electrical knowledge is required, preferably.

Screw (conical)

One of the most common models is a cone or screw splitter. The only difference between them is the absence/presence of threads on the piercing element, which in this model is made in the form of a cone.

The logs split due to the fact that a cone rotated by a motor cuts into the wood, gradually tearing it into pieces. For large logs, first the edges are chipped off, then the middle is torn.

Taper and thread parameters

First, the cutting part was turned into a smooth cone. If you use a smooth cone, when working you have to lean quite hard on the block so that the cylinder “bites” into the wood. Much easier the process is underway, if there is a thread cut on its surface. In this case, the block seems to be screwed onto a screw, and then splits.

The main thing is to make the cone with thread correctly. If there lathe and work experience, you can try to do it yourself. If not, you'll have to order it. The threads are made in different ways, but the following parameters are considered optimal: pitch 7 mm, depth 3 mm (minimum 2 mm). More important point— the depth of the seat on the motor gearbox is at least 70 mm.

If you have a cone with a thread, making this wood splitter with your own hands will not be difficult.

Electric motor and gearbox

You need an electric motor that is powerful enough (2 kW and above, or 5-9 l/s), but with a low rotation speed: 250-600 rpm. At 250 rpm and below it chops very slowly, and if the rpm is more than 500, it is dangerous to work, as it can tear the log out of your hands.

If you manage to find an engine with such parameters, you can attach the made lance (screw) directly to the crankshaft (pictured above). If there are more revolutions, you need to install a reduction gear or make a chain or belt drive to reduce the rotation speed.

The ratio is calculated depending on the engine speed. For example, there is a 900 rpm engine. By making a 1:2 gearbox we get 450 rpm. Just the best option.

Transmissions can be belt or chain. Chain ones work many times louder, require constant brushing, and it usually costs more to grind sprockets with the required parameters. A double belt drive is desirable (as in the photo above). In this case, there will be less slippage.

Chain drive is noisier, but more reliable “Extension” for the screw - to keep the working area away from the motor or belts/chains

Where to place the motor

If the design includes a gear, it is better to place the motor at the bottom and secure the screw itself on the working surface. Choose the height of the working surface to suit your height so that you don’t have to work at an angle.

A safer model. Making such a wood splitter with your own hands will make your life much easier

There is also such a parameter as the height of the screw above the working surface. The gap from the table to the cylinder should be around 8-20 cm. It should not be placed higher - it may turn small diameter logs. Optimal distance— 8-12 cm. Even small-sized logs do not turn.

Hydraulic wood splitter

A hydraulic wood splitter is the most powerful, but also the most complex and expensive to manufacture. In addition to the frame, engine and cutting knives, you need a hydraulic cylinder of sufficient power. They are not cheap. In addition, you also need an oil tank and a pump.

A hydraulic firewood splitter develops considerable forces, which is why metal of considerable thickness is used in its manufacture - 6-10 mm, depending on the drive power. The developed force is quite enough to break the log into 6-8 logs at a time. That’s why knives are made in the shape of a “star”.

When making knives, they are spaced several centimeters apart from each other. So that there is only one at work. For example, first - horizontal, then - vertical, then - right and finally - left. At the same time, strengthen each of the knives by welding reinforcing plates at the back. It is advisable to use hard steel, having previously sharpened it according to the same principle as for cleavers.

Video on the topic

Chopping wood is a useful activity for any physically strong, healthy man. But sometimes there are large volumes of firewood that need to be prepared in advance. a short time, in this case they use special tool. A wood splitter is a device that is difficult to do without when you have to chop massive pieces of wood.

Features of homemade models

A wood splitter is especially necessary in private households, where it is necessary to heat the house using firewood. You can make such a tool with your own hands; it is not difficult and will save a significant amount of money. Working with solid wood is quite risky and can cause injury, so you should use a good tool and follow the necessary safety regulations.

Mechanical units that help split solid wood and heavy logs tend to accumulate energy, they are economical, and they are easy to operate. There is no need for muscular strength to operate such devices. The units can cope with any logs and wooden ingots. They operate in push mode and can handle logs up to 35 cm long, no physical effort is required.

Pressure-action devices are driven by an internal combustion engine and can also be connected to an electric motor. They are not cheap, but their use almost completely eliminates the muscular effort that must be expended. Using this device, you can heat a house up to 350 square meters, while frosts can be Siberian, down to -35 degrees Celsius.

This unit is safe; the disadvantages include a rather complicated design and high energy consumption.

The return stroke of the pusher is usually no more than 7 centimeters per second. In a few hours, one person can prepare more than half a ton of firewood. You cannot work with wet wood; it is recommended to place wooden blanks in a woodpile under a canopy during the warm season. In about three months, the tree will “fit” to the required condition. Raw wood does not provide enough heat, the thermal conductivity is much lower (by 25%), the cleaver often gets stuck in it, and getting it out of there can sometimes be extremely difficult. Homemade wood splitter can be made no worse than the factory one, that is, it will have horizontal and vertical feed of the workpiece.

For guidance, it’s worth saying what the approximate monetary savings could be:

• a high-quality unit that runs on diesel fuel and is designed for splitting ingots 25 cm in diameter costs from 20 thousand rubles;
• a machine that can “deal” with workpieces up to 35 cm, splitting them into 4-5 fragments, costs about 30 thousand rubles.

Specifications

The simplest design of a wood splitter is the splitting ax. To work with it, you need a certain practical experience. For experienced woodcutters, a splitting ax can be the main tool when processing massive wooden pieces; the ax size of this tool is up to one meter. In recent years, the cleaver has been made from innovative materials, which allows it to be used more efficiently in the labor process.

An ax handle made of lightweight, durable fiberglass material allows you to work with this tool more efficiently. Over the two thousand years that the cleaver ax has existed, it has been continuously improved. The ax handle made of modern fiberglass completely eliminates vibration and painful feedback to the palm.

To harvest firewood in large quantities, push-type wood splitters are usually used. They have a rack or pinion pusher. Such a device pushes a massive piece of wood onto a cleaver, which, in turn, splits it into several small pieces. The feed speed of the workpiece is about 5 centimeters per second. Vertical wood splitters have a greater safety margin and are more compact. The disadvantage of this device is that there is a risk of ejection of the workpiece, which contains the following “difficulties”:

• many layers;
• a lot of knots;
• There are various irregular cuts.

A horizontal wood splitter is safer. The worker does not risk getting hit by flying chips, because their speed can sometimes be very high. The vertical unit has a circular scattering of fragments, therefore, from a safety point of view, there are questions about this unit. Hydraulic wood splitter:

• productive;
• spends minimal energy;
• safe to operate

Among the disadvantages, it should be noted that working with such a device requires some experience. And also under heavy loads, liquid may leak out of the device. The unit is easy to maintain; spare parts for it can always be found on the market.

The hydraulic log splitter does not have a return spring, and also has a rather long switching time - about 0.55 seconds. The period of time is quite significant, because the workpiece can split and fall into many fragments. Such wood splitters have a common drawback: their engine runs through a fluid coupling and sometimes cannot cope with the load. The engine usually operates in standard mode, consuming little fuel. A gear is attached to the flywheel (it is usually hydraulic, there is also a fractional one). This lever is a coupling with a pusher, which ensures that the lump is fed to the splitting knife.

There is enough energy to split almost any piece of wood.

Tools and materials

To create a screw cleaver you will need:

• power plant from 1.5 kW;
• shaft with mounted bearing;
• drive belt;
• threaded cone;
• metal 6 mm thick;
• corners 6, pipes 45 mm.

Tools you will need:

• jigsaw;
• welding machine;
• turbine;
• screwdriver;
• screwdriver;
• scotch;
• hammer;
• wire cutters;
• pliers;
• tape measure and triangle ruler.

How to do it?

Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare drawings and assembly instructions. A simple wood splitter with an electric motor can be assembled at home. Indicative in this regard is a hydraulic wood splitter, which can be made in the garage. The hydraulic system can be supplied from a mini-excavator or some other equipment. Productivity will be determined by the splitting force:

• 20 cm half – 2 tf;
• straight layer – 2.7 tf;
• 25 cm – 2.4 tf;
• 30 cm into 4 parts – 4 tf;
• 30 cm into 8 parts – 5 tf;
• 40 cm into 8 parts – 6 tf.

The power of the hydraulic pump is determined by the flow rate, which is on average 4.5 cm. Next, the efficiency is calculated and the engine is selected; its reserve should be 15% greater.

And the fittings are also selected with reserve;

• hose;
• valve;
• flaps.

An important working element is the cleaver itself. It is made from durable metal(car spring or rail, for example). The workpiece is usually met by a vertical knife, which is sharpened on a straight line (symmetrical wedge). The horizontal knife stands a little further (18 cm), it is spent on the upper oblique wedge.

For better safe work, the vertical knife is applied from below, the height is about 35 mm, while the tool protrudes by 25 mm. This design will allow you to work with complex wooden elements, provided that they are placed evenly sideways at the bottom. The sharpening angles are as follows:

• vertical knife is designed for soft wood – 19 degrees (three knife thicknesses);
• for hard wood (including birch) - 15 degrees (3.8 knife thickness);
• horizontal knives – 16 degrees;
• the prick has an inclination angle of no more than 26 degrees (minimum 20 degrees), the thickness of the knife is 2.6;

A rack-and-pinion wood splitter is simpler and cheaper than a hydraulic unit (costs no more than 20 thousand rubles). Making it yourself is not very difficult. The pusher is fed using rack, the transmission connection to the shaft works in such a way that the movement occurs no more than 4.5 cm per second. To make it, you need elements - just disassemble the old jack. The rack-and-pinion wood splitter does not have hydraulic components, and its maintenance takes a minimum of time.

Such a unit, from a safety point of view, is more preferable. The operating scheme is as follows: it operates when the lever is lowered, then the return spring element will lift the rack and tilt it back. The disadvantage of such a unit is that as the feed speed decreases, the thrust increases rapidly, and then also suddenly drops to zero. If there is a cavity or some other flaw in the workpiece, the unit will be subjected to too much stress, this can happen spontaneously, which can cause deformation of the machine or even its breakdown.

The hydraulic drive always works softer; the largest thrust coefficient occurs when there is a feed rate that approaches zero. If a workpiece that is too strong gets into the feed of the hydraulic unit, it will be pushed onto the splitter non-stop, which can lead to damage. For a rack-and-pinion log splitter (based on all the above comments) you need a more powerful engine. To calculate its power, you can simply shift the forces of the splitting, which exists for the hydraulic drive: a pig with a diameter of 20 cm is 2.6 tf, the efficiency in this case will be about 0.87.

Often, too thick dried bark interferes with the movement of the workpiece. As a conclusion, you can note: rack and pinion units are appropriate when the amount of work is relatively small, the work is done using muscle power.

For small preparations of firewood, a vertical screw splitter may be quite suitable. This device has low productivity; it is not afraid of various flaws in wood blanks. An electric engine for its operation may be low-power, only 2.8 kW - from washing machine, with a pulley drive. With a low-power engine, such a unit will be able to “cope” with elements up to 42 cm in diameter and up to 65 cm in height. To create it, you will need an engine from a washing machine; the rotation speed of such a power plant may well be suitable. The disadvantage may be that by mounting the cleaver directly on the engine shaft, the engine housing may move and it will break.

In progress the main role is given to a cone-shaped nozzle, which has a thread and rotates at a speed of 160-1550 rpm (operating frequency is usually 300 rpm). Carving is done with the left hand due to the fact that most people are right-handed; their right hand is physically better developed.

The workpiece on a screw cleaver is fed onto it along a vertical plane. During movement, the workpiece (its movement) is adjusted by hand. This formulation of the question does not have the best effect on the level of safety, so you should take into account the fact that a screw wood splitter - this device is dangerous. The employee is required to constantly ensure that right hand there was not enough material left. If the cleaver gets stuck, the process of winding the workpiece will occur. To prevent such incidents from occurring, a spacer should be installed under the cleaver.

The assembly and operation of the screw unit can be affected by the rationality of the design, as well as the location of such components:

• wedge stop;
• drive pulley;
• main shaft operation.

And it is also important what shape the cleaver itself is, how it is sharpened; such parameters will certainly affect the operation of the unit itself. The wedge stop is also important; it determines the safety of the unit and affects performance and reliability. If the stop is selected incorrectly, problems will arise with the engine; operation will occur with a high voltage of the power unit. Performance will be noticeably lower. You cannot leave the cleaver hanging without a lower stop. The wedge stop is attached to the base on the right. In this case, its length can be such that the spout is 1/4-1/2 longer than the length of the thread.

The stop parameter corresponds to the diameter of the cleaver in a similar section (in this case, 4 heights of the threaded part are subtracted). The distance between the shank and the stop is about 1.8 mm, however, if the gap is 0.8 mm, it will be even better. The cleaver will “disturb” a little at first, but after a short time the grinding will occur and the product will last for quite a long time.

The vertical stop is 2/3 of the shank. For 76 mm the limits are limited to 52-62 mm. The workpiece must be pulled up manually after the cleaver has entered the tree quite deeply. If the cleaver has already entered too deeply into the material, it will be impossible to hold it with bare hands. Fit Bottom part will hit the side of the stop. In this case, damage and defects may occur.

The unit must be made in such a way that the holder and the main shaft drive are made according to the instructions, in this case nothing will happen and there will be no damage. In a screw wood splitter, the inertial impulse for rotation is transmitted through a pulley. In this case, the pulley must slip if a “plug” occurs, otherwise an accident is inevitable.

In this regard, transmission using a chain is more rational and practical; there are noticeably fewer “plugs”. The chain itself has considerable weight, so the transmission is more rigid and allows it to overcome “obstacles.” If the workpieces have too many knots, then you will need to install a drive, which is presented in the form of a powerful driven pulley.

There is a carrot screw; this unit really resembles a root vegetable. The unit is simple to design and assemble; you can work with it when preparing a small amount of firewood. This device can also cut wood, so splitting with a screw provides a sufficient amount of sawdust. On the farm, this is sometimes in demand if there is a poultry house on the territory that needs to be heated.

A sliding splitter is another option. The shoulder is taken into account as 1.6 meters. Overload can be up to 40 kg. If the wood splitter is stationary, then in this case it can work as an inertial lever, that is, it can be lifted by the handle and then lowered with force onto the workpiece. If the cleaver is dynamic, then it can be easily moved along the lever, in which case it can be pressed. At the same time, the shoulder lengthens significantly. The lever wood splitter has a number of features:

• It is best to use the “Arrow” cleaver; it is easy to buy;
• the lever is supported by a spring in a horizontal position;
• the spring must be well secured so that it does not fly off;
• often the spring is passed into a moving pendulum guide.

If the mechanical unit is not attached to the base, then it is made with a diameter that is not inferior in size to the lever arm (a size taken that is 2 times larger than the size of the wooden workpiece). It makes no sense to create “mechanics” with a fixed cleaver that slides along a guide. Even if you hit the cleaver with all your might with a sledgehammer, it will often jam.

A cone-shaped wood splitter is also often used, which in private households (when relatively little firewood is needed) can cope with fairly heavy ingots (up to 55 cm in diameter). The cone is made 82-148 mm in size, the angle of inclination is about 16 degrees if the tree has small layers, and 19 degrees if the layers are straight. At a third of the height of the cone, the opening angle changes to 26-32 degrees. It is best to use a rack jack. A rack and pinion jack is preferable because it is very simple and reliable and is not afraid of heavy loads. With hydraulic device more work, and it is more vulnerable under excessive loads.

One more detail is important. The control rod of the conical splitter is usually made functional, using reinforcement or a rod of steel grade St47, with a diameter of at least 22 mm. The thread is made in the shape of a trapezoid (often sewer valves are suitable, where the steering wheel is removed and replaced with a lever).

You can also make a wood splitter in the form of a saber with your own hands; such a device is also called a saber. The lever arm here is at least 0.9 meters, made of soft wood (pine, birch). This type of wood splitter can only be used with soft rocks trees. Also, at dachas, they install wood splitters for the winter using a lever operating principle, which can split workpieces up to 35 cm in diameter. The productivity of such a unit is not high, but such a device is quite enough to chop firewood for dinner. Using the pedal, the sliding stop is raised, then it is released and the pedal is pressed, so the workpiece is delaminated.

You can even make a wood splitter from a wheel; we will look at the technology below.

From the jack

A wood splitter can be made from a jack, which is manually driven using physical force.

The following materials will be required:

• hydraulic jack;
• steel sheet 5 mm;
• channel or angle No. 8;
• primer;
• springs;
• bolts and nuts.

List of tools:

• Bulgarian;
• welding machine;
• drill;
• triangle ruler;
• marker.

It is important to secure the vertical fastenings correctly; the lion's share of the load will fall on them. For these purposes, you will need a corner No. 8 or an I-beam. Then a wedge is made that cuts the wooden blanks. This element is made of steel or angle. It is also recommended to sharpen the wedge well, then the work will be more productive. The jack will be positioned against the lower stand, which must be slightly raised above the base. To do this, you need to weld several flat pieces of sheet steel. The jack must be well secured so that it does not jump out during operation. The element is additionally secured with clamps and nuts.

Springs will also be needed to return the element to its original state. You should also make a reliable frame, which is best welded from steel. In order for the support base to be firmly attached to the jack, an additional round pipe is welded to it. And you will also need to weld the mountings for the springs. The device is placed mainly in a corner; it can be additionally “grabbed” with bolts to two walls.

From a wheel rim

A wood splitter can be made from the wheel disk of a tractor or truck. Concrete can be poured into the cavity of such an element to increase the mass. A vertical mount, similar to a guillotine, is welded to the central block. The disk rotates, and the “guillotine” falls and hits the die, which is attached in the center. Working on such a unit is not easy; practical experience is required.

Security measures

Safety precautions should be observed during operation. The energy that is spent on splitting wood elements is quite significant. The rate of scattering of chips can be high. Before starting the drive, all fixing elements should be checked:

• bolted connections;
• joints;
• pulley fastening;
• cable;
• engine mount;
• knives must be in good condition, without chips or signs of corrosion.

Clothing with long sleeves should be loose and made of thick fabric, and should also include:

• good work boots;
• gloves;
• glasses;
• headphones.

The equipment must be located on a flat, stable surface that is not afraid of powerful vibration. Reinforced concrete slab– an ideal basis for basing such a unit. The machine can only process parts that correspond to the format of the equipment. And a few more tips:

• when the machine is operating closer than three meters, it is not recommended to approach it;
• the work area should always be fenced off with warning tape made of paper or PVC material;
• equipment should only be operated under the supervision of an employee;
• During operation, you should carefully monitor so that no foreign objects get into the unit;
• Preventative inspections and test runs should be carried out regularly;
• All equipment repair work is carried out with the engine disconnected from the network.