Despite all the convenience of a marker board, not many people dare to decorate their home or workplace- after all, the prices for this simple device are unreasonably high, and even for an inexperienced mathematician it is obvious that they are many times higher than the cost of the product. Therefore, the most creative people refuse to overpay for a brand and make inexpensive marker boards or their analogues on their own. There are several easy and quick ways, among which the reader will be able to choose the best option for himself.
Advantages of a marker board
The advantage of using such a board, like a chalk board, is the large and easily erasable surface. However, unlike the “school classics”, the marker board fits well into any interior due to its variety color solutions. It will be equally appropriate in an office space and a conference room, in a cafe and restaurant, an educational auditorium and a children's room, home office or in the kitchen.
In the office, a marker board is, first of all, a way to optimize the workspace, an excellent way to transform the office walls and make them an active assistant in work. This is the perfect place for presentations, brainstorming results, current company news, schedules, plans, notes, and various work issues. You no longer need to use notepads, stickers, or various reminders.
In a children's room, a marker board is a fun and beautiful compromise between the child's desire to draw always and everywhere, including on the walls, and the parent's desire to keep the wallpaper safe and sound. In the kitchen, it will help make shopping lists, plan menus, distribute household responsibilities, leave notes, and much more (however, the refrigerator often takes on this role).
Photo frame with glass
Perhaps the most convenient option: markers write well on glass, and the inscriptions are the easiest to erase. In addition, you can choose according to your taste and style of the room both the frame itself and the background of the future marker board - white, pastel colors, bright and rich... The color depends on the paper under the glass (you can choose it in an office supply store or a photo printing store), or on the paint applied directly to the back of the glass.
Painting glass is quite simple, although it requires certain skills. We take rubber gloves, a can of spray paint, and settle down on fresh air or open balcony- and forward! It is worth spraying the paint at a distance of no closer than 10-15 centimeters, otherwise smudges will form. The same thing happens when applying too large quantity paints at a time, so it’s worth working in several stages. Aerosol paint dries quite quickly, about 7-10 minutes per layer.
Adhesive tape
After a little googling, you can find that there are two types of vinyl film that can be used for our project: a simple glossy white one and a special one for marker boards. The first costs a penny, the second costs more - but even it is several times cheaper than ordinary marker boards. Judging by the reviews of handymen, both demonstrate excellent results (so why overpay?)
Today I would like to talk about how, in a few hours, with only 300 rubles in your pocket, and a bag of enthusiasm behind your back, you can make yourself one useful thing like a marker board.
What we need:
Glass from an old window
Two bottles of white spray paint- 110 rubles/piece
Coarse sandpaper
Fine grit sandpaper
Bucket of water + detergent
Acetone or solvent - 60 rubles/can
Rags
Iron corners for furniture - 10 rubles per piece
Wooden blocks
Screws (large ones with dowels for mounting on the wall, and small ones will become clear why later) - 2 rubles = piece
2-4 hours time
(Not everything is here, but the main set is shown).
Step one: Looking for glass
The first problem you may encounter is finding the right glass. I was lucky, I found a suitable one on the fifth floor of my house. I can advise you to look at a landfill or some construction site, there is a lot of this stuff there. You can also order it sliced required sizes glass in a glass workshop, but this will increase the final cost of the board by about seven hundred rubles.
Step two: Prepare the glass for painting
Did you find glass? Great, now it needs to be cleaned. On my ( window glass) in addition to dust and all kinds of dirt, it also turned out to be old Oil paint. Before painting, you should get rid of all this dirty tricks (we do it efficiently).
We take a rag with detergent and water and clean the glass from dirt and dust. Then we take a piece of rag and acetone and begin to scrub off the old paint. Does it rub off? What a score! Wipe off all the paint and move on to the next step.
I was not so lucky, and the paint was not rubbed off with either acetone or solvent, well, we take sandpaper with fine grain and a rag soaked in solvent in our hands, now slowly, without putting too much pressure, we begin to carefully go over the paint with sandpaper, periodically wiping the area over which you are currently working with as a solvent.
Of course, this will leave small scratches, but after painting this will not be visible.
Somewhere in the middle of a rather long process, I realized that the sandpaper should also be moistened in a solvent, this helps a little.
Also, in the field of this, it is worth walking over with a sandpaper with large grain end sides glass in order to round them and avoid cuts during installation and use.
Step three: wash the glass
After there is no paint left on the glass, it is worth rinsing it thoroughly again in order to get rid of the remnants of acetone and various small nonsense that stuck on while getting rid of the paint.
This is necessary so that the paint lays down in an even layer and there are no hairs or dust particles left under it.
Step Four: Painting
Well, everything is quite simple, although it requires certain skills.
Take a respirator (preferably), rubber gloves, a can of paint and go! Spray the paint at a distance of about 10-15 centimeters, do not worry that the paint does not go on smoothly, poorly painted areas and stains remain (we are not robots), we will paint in four layers!
Attention!: The main thing is to avoid smudges; it is better to underpaint one of the layers than to get smudges, especially in the first two layers.
Aerosol paint dries quite quickly, about 7-10 minutes per layer.
When applying the final layer, you can slightly neglect the smudges, if there are clearly unpainted areas, and paint them better (you can apply not four, but five, six or even seven layers to these places).
(First layer)
(Third layer)
Step Five: Check
Did you paint it? Everything seems fine, let's make sure.
We turn the glass over with the unpainted side facing us and inspect it for poorly painted areas.
In case anyone hasn't realized yet, the unpainted side of our future board is the front one! Yes, yes, that's it. The marker glides on glass much better and can be wiped off several times better. And we painted the glass so that the marker was clearly visible on a white background, and not on transparent glass.
Step six: Prepare the fasteners
There are a lot of options for attaching glass to the wall. You can use special fasteners that are sold in stores, you can drill holes in the glass and screw it to the wall. Or you can use ordinary furniture corners with small wooden blocks. That's about latest version I'll tell you.
We take a piece of wood and cut several blocks out of it, so that when you screw the block to the corner, there will be a gap of about half a centimeter between the corner and the block.
It is worth putting some kind of rubber gasket in this gap in order to protect the glass from direct contact with hard parts.
Unfortunately, I didn’t film the process of making the fasteners, but when you see the finished structure, you’ll understand everything.
We paint it to match the board, and go to the wall on which we are going to hang our board.
(Side view with gasket)
(View from above)
Step Seven: Installation
If you managed to do everything that I described above and not break the glass, break your arm, or screw yourself to the floor, then I think that you will be able to drill several holes in the wall and screw the corners to them without my help. I’ll only tell you about the pitfalls that await you.
The first step is to attach the lower corners, so that later you can measure where to screw the upper ones. I did it this way: I screwed the two lower fasteners, placed the glass on them, and placed the upper fasteners, marking their location with a pencil. Then it's a matter of small things.
Secondly, it’s worth noting that inserting a fairly large and fragile glass into such a structure from the side is quite problematic, so it’s worth unscrewing the top fasteners wooden blocks, insert the glass, and then return the bars back.
Thirdly, I would like to note that the glass recedes from the wall by about half a centimeter, which, if large enough, makes the structure extra fragile. I decided this problem by gluing about ten half-centimeter rubber gaskets to the back side of the glass. They prevent the glass from bending in the center when we intensively wash our soaps off it.
Step Eight: Rejoice
Are you laughing? Nothing funny, for the first 20 minutes I wrote various nonsense on this board or simply didn’t take my eyes off it, the quality of workmanship, accuracy, the fact that it looks almost the same as its analogues for several thousand and the fact that you made it with your own hands delivers paradisaic delight.
As practice has shown, such a board can not only help you develop a project or think of a brilliant plan to take over the world, it is also a great thing for a party:
Game 1: We blindfold one of the participants, put him in front of the board, hand him a marker, whisper so that no one can hear what needs to be drawn and in front, the rest guess.
Game 2: We draw on the board, for example: a donkey, a mora pig and a man, a blindfolded player needs to draw a tail for a donkey, a heel (nose) for a pig, a man, I won’t specify what we drew :), but you can draw a nose.
Finally
Within a month of use, the board showed itself to be excellent and fully repaid the time spent on its creation. I use it in almost every project I develop.
As for the changes, I would make the fasteners a little more elegant, they stick out a lot.
I express my deep gratitude to the users taliban, Akson87, pel, as well as to all those who wished to remain anonymous, for increasing karma and the opportunity to write this post.
I would be very glad if a photo of such a board made by someone from the community appears in the comments.
I will be glad to see suggestions for improving the board, as well as the readability of the post, in private messages or comments.
Large white boards that you can write on with markers and then wipe dry are great for presenting information visually. Instead of buying such a board, you can make it yourself to save money! A large board can be made from inexpensive materials such as plastic or foam, inserted into a frame and hung on the wall. If you want magnets to stick to your board, try painting it steel sheet. You can also make it from paper and plastic small boards that are convenient to carry with you. Among other things, you can write down various notes and reminders on a whiteboard, which will make your life a little easier.
Steps
-
Measure the dimensions of the board according to the amount of free space. Choose the board sizes at your discretion. Please measure in advance free space on the wall so you know how much material to order. Take a measuring tape and determine the dimensions of where you want to hang the board. Write down the dimensions you measured and take your notes with you when you go to the store.
- Most of the materials needed for a whiteboard are sold in sheets (e.g. 1.2 x 2.4 meters). If the home improvement store doesn't have the size you need, you can usually place an order accordingly.
-
Buy a sheet of melamine to make a traditional whiteboard. Melamine is fiberboard ( fibreboard) with a hard coating on one side. Most commercial whiteboards use melamine, so you know what to expect from this material. Some sheets have a tile-like texture, which can be useful if you need to break up information into individual squares, but it's usually better to choose a smooth sheet. Smooth sheets are easier to wipe, and the inscriptions on them look neater.
- You can also choose a porcelain finish. It is more durable than melamine, but also more expensive.
-
Choose a sheet of plastic if you are going to make a transparent board. Try using Plexiglas or Lexan for something special. Acrylic and polycarbonate sheets are transparent so you can see the wall behind them. When you write on a board like this, it looks like you are writing on a wall. Of these materials, it is better to use Lexan, as it is about half as thin as plexiglass, weighs less and will not crack if you want to drill it to hang it on the wall.
- Plastic boards don't stand out as much in most spaces and look good against white walls. You can purchase a large sheet of plastic that covers almost the entire wall to give you enough space. Plastic is very easy to clean and lasts longer than melamine.
-
Purchase decorative wood slats to frame the board. The slats should be longer than the sides of the board so that you can trim them when you make the frame. For example, for a 0.6 × 1.2 meter board, two 2.4 meter long slats are perfect. The frame will hide the rough edges of the board and create a border that is pleasing to the eye. Additionally, a board with a wooden frame is usually easier to hang on the wall. The frame is quite easy to make from wooden slats or planks.
- Decorative slats cost a little more compared to others necessary materials. If you want to save money, try using unwanted planks you have around the house.
-
Measure and cut the slats using miter box . Use a measuring tape to determine the length and height of the board. Measure these distances and mark them with a pencil on the slats from which you are going to make a frame. After this, insert the staff into the miter box and align the pencil marks with the saw cutouts. Insert a handsaw into the appropriate notches and cut the slats at a 45-degree angle.
- Fold the slats to check that they fit snugly together. If you cut them correctly, you should end up with a frame like those used for paintings. If the ends of the slats do not fit tightly together or overlap, cut them again.
- If you have a circular saw, you can use it to cut wood slats faster.
-
If you are going to stain the wood, scrub the slats sandpaper with grits 120 and 220. After this, the paint will better adhere to the surface of the wood. Start with 120-grit sandpaper and rub the surface along the grain of the wood, applying light but consistent pressure. Next, go over the wood with 220-grit sandpaper to smooth out the surface.
- Sand the wood along the grain to avoid leaving unsightly scratches.
-
Apply to wood stain to give it the desired shade. Select a stain and apply it along the grain of the wood using a foam brush. Apply the product in continuous sweeping movements along the entire length of the slats. Then wait up to 15 minutes for the product to absorb before applying the next coat. The extra layers will make the wood darker, and the frame will look much more attractive when you hang the board on the wall.
- Wear gloves when working with stain. If you apply too much stain, blot the excess with a rag before it soaks into the wood.
-
Glue the wooden frame to the board using clear epoxy glue. Make sure the frame fits snugly against the board before gluing it down. When you are ready to attach the frame, apply glue to the back of the wood slats. Place the slats against the edges of the board and press down if necessary to secure in place. Also add glue where the slats meet each other so that they stick together.
- Epoxy glue is often sold in two parts. To obtain glue, you need to mix the resin and hardener in a 1:1 ratio.
- You can also use acrylic glue or polymer superglue. Polyurethane construction adhesive is great for attaching foam sheets to wood, since foam doesn't respond well to most other types of adhesives.
-
Secure the board to the wall with screws. Measure 30cm intervals along the frame. Using a cordless screwdriver, drive 5cm screws into the wood frame and the wall behind it. At the same time, ask someone to hold the frame with the board. The screws must be screwed into the support beam, otherwise the board may fall and break.
- To find a support beam in a wall, use a discontinuity detector. As you move along the wall, a sensor on it will light up when you hit a beam. Mark the appropriate places so that you can then secure the board as securely as possible.
Metal magnetic board
-
Buy a metal sheet appropriate sizes. For your whiteboard, you'll need something thin and durable. Metal is perfect for this purpose. If you need magnetic material, choose galvanized steel sheet. In this case, you can not only write and draw on the board, but also attach magnets to it.
- Please note that although aluminum appears good choice, since it is lighter than steel, it does not attract magnets.
-
Attach a sheet of wood to the back of the metal to make the board stronger and stronger. Many whiteboards are made up of multiple materials. Place a sheet of wood under the metal to make it easier for you to hang the board and write on it. A soft, lightweight cork sheet works great, although plywood or something similar can also be used.
- Try to find a sheet of wood the same size as the future board. In this case, you do not have to cut the wood to fit the dimensions of the metal sheet.
- If the tree leaf is too large, you can cut it hand saw. Many hardware or building supply stores will cut the board to the size you need if you ask to do so at the time of purchase.
-
If necessary, cut the metal sheet to the size you need using tin snips. It all depends on how big board you need, and what kind of space you have for it. If you need to shrink a metal sheet, use straight shears to do this. sheet metal. Carefully cut the metal to match the dimensions of the back sheet of wood.
- After cutting metal, sharp edges remain. Be careful not to touch them. To avoid cutting yourself, you can wear leather gloves.
- Eat different kinds metal scissors. Choose scissors with yellow handles - they are best for getting straight cuts, which is what you want for a rectangular board.
-
Spray the metal with primer if you plan to paint it. Although there is no rule that boards must be white, it is customary to paint them in such a way that ink of all colors is visible. First, coat the metal with an anti-corrosion latex primer. Apply it with sweeping, even movements along the entire length of the metal sheet. While doing this, hold the can of primer about 15 centimeters above the metal surface.
- Before applying primer, wipe off any visible dirt from the metal. To do this, take a soft cloth moistened with water. You can also use white vinegar or mineral spirits to better clean the metal surface and prepare it for painting.
- To achieve a smooth, even finish, apply a second coat. Before doing this, wait about 15 minutes for the first coat of primer to dry.
- Dry erase markers work great on bare metal, so there's no need to paint the board if you don't want to. If you prefer a shiny metallic finish rather than a standard white finish, leave it as is. However, keep in mind that in this case the marks from darker markers will be slightly less visible.
-
Paint the metal with dry erase board paint. Be sure to check the mixing instructions on the paint can. Mix the paint itself with the supplied liquid activator and wait about one hour for the solution to settle. After this, apply the paint to the metal with a foam roller. Try to make the paint layer as smooth and uniform as possible, and there are no irregularities left on it that will create inconvenience when writing.
- The white board should be smooth and uniform. Dry erase markers don't write well on rough surfaces, so take your time and try to apply the ink correctly.
-
Wait 10-15 minutes before adding additional coats of paint. After the first coat of paint, the whiteboard will likely not have the finish you want. Apply additional layers of paint over the first one so that it is thick enough to write on. Since metal is a dark shade, try applying 3-4 coats of paint. Wait a while before applying each subsequent coat of paint to allow the previous one to dry.
- Cover the metal with an even coat of paint. Apply additional coats until you are happy with the surface quality.
-
Glue the painted metal to the wood back sheet using epoxy glue. Epoxy glue is quite aggressive, so wear rubber gloves before working with it. Mix the glue with something you can throw away, such as wooden stick for paint. When ready, apply the glue directly to the piece of wood in a thick, continuous layer, as if you were frosting a cake. After this, place a metal sheet on top of the glue with the painted surface facing up.
- Sheets can also be glued together using polyurethane-based superglue or silicone construction adhesive.
-
Wait 72 hours for the paint and glue to cure completely. It is too early to use the board - it needs time to dry completely. Once the glue has cured, you can hang the board without worrying about the sheet of metal slipping and crashing to the floor.
- Do not write on the board until it is completely dry.
-
Hang the board using picture mount adhesive strips. Remove the paper covering them from the strips and stick them on each corner of the back wooden sheet boards one strip at a time. The other sides of the strips will remain sticky, so press the board firmly against the wall. Press down on the board for about 30 seconds to ensure the strips adhere properly to the wall. Then check to see if the board is securely fastened.
- Picture mount strips are the only way to hang whiteboard without drilling holes in it and the wall.
- If you want to hang the board on your refrigerator, use a little glue to attach magnets to the corners. Epoxy glue, superglue, or any other sufficiently strong and durable glue will do.
- Another possibility is to screw the board to the wall. You can also purchase a metal picture hanger, attach it to the wall, and hang the board on it.
Small cardstock boards
- Cut a piece of card stock the same size as the cover. Thick cardstock paper is great for giving the board the rigidity it needs for writing, although regular paper can also be used. Covers are usually designed to hold papers, so you don't have to trim them. If the cardstock is larger than the cover, cut a matching sheet of cardstock to stiffen the board.
- Although plain paper is less rigid than cardstock, you can always change it. For example, it is very convenient for students. You can put down a math worksheet and then change it to something else.
-
Measure and mark all the borders you are going to put on the sheets. Secure the plastic sheets with duct tape to make them look neater. Select a colored ribbon, measure its width and divide by 2. Using a waterproof marker, draw lines on the plastic sheets at the same distance from their edges.
- Use adhesive tape to cover the edges of the plastic. In this case, half of its width will be on the front, and the second half - on the rear sheet of plastic. You will paste the tape so that its edges coincide with the lines drawn with a marker.
-
Apply tape to the cover to hold the sheets of plastic together. Wrap duct tape around the edges of the plastic to hold it in place. Smooth out the tape - you have a white board. Leave plastic covers on at least one side with tape so you can change the paper between them.
- If you are not going to change the paper, tape the plastic covers on all four sides. Be sure to place cardstock paper between the covers before sealing the last side.
- Another method is to wrap cardstock paper in plastic film. You can use adhesive plastic film or glue the plastic using clear decoupage glue. Plastic or foam board
- Sheet of melamine, plexiglass or Lexan
- Decorative wooden slats
- Manual or a circular saw
- Miter box
- Epoxy adhesive
- Wood stain
- Foam brush
- Cordless screwdriver
- 5 cm drywall screws
- Inhomogeneity detector
- Galvanized steel sheet
- Plywood or cork sheet
- Anti-corrosion latex primer
- White paint for dry erase boards
- Wooden stick for mixing paint
- Epoxy adhesive
- Adhesive strips for attaching pictures
- Magnets (if necessary)
- Metal scissors (if necessary)
- Report covers or plastic film
- Cardstock paper
- Scissors
- Ruler
- Adhesive tape
Metal magnetic board
Small boards made of cardboard
Good day, dear reader.
Today I would like to talk about how, in a few hours, with only 300 rubles in your pocket and a bag of enthusiasm behind your back, you can make yourself such a useful thing as a marker board.
The downloaded image is approximately three megabytes.
So let's get started
What we need:
- Glass from an old window
- Two cans of white spray paint - 110 rubles per piece
- Coarse sandpaper
- Fine grit sandpaper
- Bucket of water + detergent
- Acetone or solvent - 60 rubles/can
- Rags
- Iron corners for furniture - 10 rubles per piece
- Wooden blocks
- Screws (large ones with dowels for mounting on the wall, and small ones will become clear why later) - 2 rubles = piece
- 2-4 hours time
(Not everything is here, but the main set is shown).
Step one: Looking for glass
The first problem you may encounter is finding the right glass. I was lucky, I found a suitable one on the fifth floor of my house. I can advise you to look at a landfill or some construction site, there is a lot of this stuff there. You can also order glass cut to the required dimensions from a glass workshop, but this will increase the final cost of the board by about seven hundred rubles.Step two: Prepare the glass for painting
Did you find glass? Great, now it needs to be cleaned. On my (window glass), in addition to dust and all kinds of dirt, there was also old oil paint. Before painting, you should get rid of all this dirty tricks (we do it efficiently).We take a rag with detergent and water and clean the glass from dirt and dust. Then we take a piece of rag and acetone and begin to scrub off the old paint. Does it rub off? What a score! Wipe off all the paint and move on to the next step.
I was not so lucky, and the paint was not rubbed off with either acetone or solvent, well, we take sandpaper with fine grain and a rag soaked in solvent in our hands, now slowly, without putting too much pressure, we begin to carefully go over the paint with sandpaper, periodically wiping the area over which you are currently working with as a solvent.
Of course, this will leave small scratches, but after painting this will not be visible.
Somewhere in the middle of a rather long process, I realized that the sandpaper should also be moistened in a solvent, this helps a little.
Also, in order to do this, it is worth using a large-grain sandpaper to go over the end sides of the glass in order to round them off and avoid cuts during installation and use.
Step three: wash the glass
After there is no paint left on the glass, it is worth rinsing it thoroughly again in order to get rid of the remnants of acetone and various small nonsense that stuck on while getting rid of the paint.This is necessary so that the paint lays down in an even layer and there are no hairs or dust particles left under it.
Step Four: Painting
Well, everything is quite simple, although it requires certain skills.Take a respirator (preferably), rubber gloves, a can of paint and go! Spray the paint at a distance of about 10-15 centimeters, do not worry that the paint does not go on smoothly, poorly painted areas and stains remain (we are not robots), we will paint in four layers!
Attention!: The main thing is to avoid smudges; it is better to underpaint one of the layers than to get smudges, especially in the first two layers.
Aerosol paint dries quite quickly, about 7-10 minutes per layer.
When applying the final layer, you can slightly neglect the smudges, if there are clearly unpainted areas, and paint them better (you can apply not four, but five, six or even seven layers to these places).
(First layer) 
(Third layer)
Step Five: Check
Did you paint it? Everything seems fine, let's make sure.We turn the glass over with the unpainted side facing us and inspect it for poorly painted areas.
In case anyone hasn't realized yet, the unpainted side of our future board is the front one! Yes, yes, that's it. The marker glides on glass much better and can be wiped off several times better. And we painted the glass so that the marker was clearly visible on a white background, and not on transparent glass.
Step six: Prepare the fasteners
There are a lot of options for attaching glass to the wall. You can use special fasteners that are sold in stores, you can drill holes in the glass and screw it to the wall. Or you can use ordinary furniture corners with small wooden blocks. I’ll tell you about the last option.We take a piece of wood and cut several blocks out of it, so that when you screw the block to the corner, there will be a gap of about half a centimeter between the corner and the block.
It is worth putting some kind of rubber gasket in this gap in order to protect the glass from direct contact with hard parts.
Unfortunately, I didn’t film the process of making the fasteners, but when you see the finished structure, you’ll understand everything.
We paint it to match the board, and go to the wall on which we are going to hang our board.
(Side view with gasket) 
(View from above)
Step Seven: Installation
If you managed to do everything that I described above and not break the glass, break your arm, or screw yourself to the floor, then I think that you will be able to drill several holes in the wall and screw the corners to them without my help. I’ll only tell you about the pitfalls that await you.The first step is to attach the lower corners, so that later you can measure where to screw the upper ones. I did it this way: I screwed the two lower fasteners, placed the glass on them, and placed the upper fasteners, marking their location with a pencil. Then it's a matter of small things.
Secondly, it’s worth noting that inserting a fairly large and fragile glass into such a structure from the side is quite problematic, so you should unscrew the wooden blocks at the top fasteners, insert the glass, and then return the bars back.
Thirdly, I would like to note that the glass recedes from the wall by about half a centimeter, which, if large enough, makes the structure extra fragile. I solved this problem by gluing about ten half-centimeter rubber gaskets to the back side of the glass. They prevent the glass from bending in the center when we intensively wash our soaps off it.
Step Eight: Rejoice
Are you laughing? Nothing funny, for the first 20 minutes I wrote various nonsense on this board or simply didn’t take my eyes off it, the quality of workmanship, accuracy, the fact that it looks almost the same as its analogues for several thousand and the fact that you made it with your own hands delivers paradisaic delight.
By the way
As practice has shown, such a board can not only help you develop a project or think of a brilliant plan to take over the world, it is also a great thing for a party:
Game 1: We blindfold one of the participants, put him in front of the board, hand him a marker, whisper so that no one can hear what needs to be drawn and in front, the rest guess.
Game 2: We draw on the board, for example: a donkey, a mora pig and a man, a blindfolded player needs to draw a tail for a donkey, a heel (nose) for a pig, a man, I won’t specify what we drew :), but you can draw a nose.
Finally
Within a month of use, the board showed itself to be excellent and fully repaid the time spent on its creation. I use it in almost every project I develop.As for the changes, I would make the fasteners a little more elegant, they stick out a lot.
I express my deep gratitude to the users taliban, Akson87, pel, as well as to all those who wished to remain anonymous, for increasing karma and the opportunity to write this post.
I would be very glad if a photo of such a board made by someone from the community appears in the comments.
I will be glad to see suggestions for improving the board, as well as the readability of the post, in private messages or comments.
Useful from the comments
1. The user gunnzolder suggested using ORACAL type film to add strength and get rid of fragments (in case of an accident), so that the fragments do not scatter around the room, but remain on the film.Thanks to them for the additions, I’m waiting for new proposals to improve the design.