Do-it-yourself attic – photo and construction technology. Making a beautiful attic floor with your own hands How to build an attic house

The attic roof makes it possible to significantly increase the total living space, while investing financial resources will be minimal. The most common option is a gable broken structure, which is easy to build yourself.

How to make a mansard roof yourself

Under the attic roof you can arrange living rooms. The shape of the building can be different, but in most cases the attic is built under a roof with two slopes. The optimal solution, which allows you to obtain a significant area of ​​​​living space, is a broken structure.

A sloping roof is the best option for arranging an attic

Drawings and calculations of a mansard roof

The first step is to decide on the frame diagram. Rafters can be layered or hanging type. Layered ones rest on the walls of the building. They are mounted in structures where the distance between the walls is less than 6.5 m. Hanging rafters placed on fillies and mauerlat. If the width of the spans is large, then the rafter system will need to be reinforced with auxiliary ties.

The main condition for the comfortable construction of an attic is the ceiling level - it must be higher than 2.5 m. To ensure a similar height, the break line must be placed at a height of more than 2.8 m, taking into account the thickness of the layer of material for insulation and cladding of the structure. It is also important to consider the thickness of the floor.

An example of a drawing can be seen in the image:

Minimum height the ceiling of the attic roof is 2.5 m

To calculate the expected snow loads, you will need to apply this formula: S = Sg x µ, where S is the snow load, Sg is the weight of the snow cover per 1 m 2 area, µ is the value that depends on the roof slope (1.0 - for a flat structure with a slope of 25°, 0. 7 - for a design with an inclination of 25–60°).

Parameters Sg and Wo can be found in the relevant SNiP, in the “Rafter systems” section. If the roof has a steep slope, then the snow load can be ignored.

Roof structure

The frame structure includes the following parts:

• Mauerlat - a support bar that transfers the load from the rafters to the walls of the building;
• racks - supporting parts that support the rafter system in a vertical position;
• floor beams - planks that form half of the attic and the ceiling of the lower floor;
• rafters - slats that form the main contour of the roof;
• purlins - horizontal supporting parts for rafters;
• sheathing - slats or plywood sheets that are intended for laying roofing material;
• fillies - strips that are attached along the axis at the bottom of the rafter legs.

The frame consists of a mauerlat, racks, purlins, floor beams and other elements

A sloping roof differs from an ordinary structure with two slopes. The difference is that the slopes, which are placed opposite each other, have special form: they do not form a straight line, but consist of several slopes, which are fastened to one another at an obtuse angle. The design is also symmetrical.

The extreme part of the rafters is generally set at an angle of about 60°. The support posts that support the rafters form the frame structure of the interior walls. The upper part of the rafters is mounted at a small angle, it can be from 15 to 45°. This makes it possible to reduce material consumption, while maintaining the functional properties of the roof and resistance to loads from snow.

Vertical posts that rest against the floor planks, purlins and crossbars that fasten them form a parallelepiped. The design limits the dimensions of the attic from the inside. To give the product additional rigidity, struts should be installed between the floor slats and the lower rafters.

If the roof span is more than 8 m, then you will need to install struts

After installing the upper elements, to fix the truss and prevent sagging of the crossbars, you should install hanging support elements - headstocks. For auxiliary fixation of the lower rafter legs, they must be pulled together with the uprights using tacks. The parts are fastened using nails and bolts.

Stages of self-construction of an attic

If you decide to make such a structure yourself, it is important to provide for the use of the following materials in the project:

• roofing material;
• vapor barrier;
• waterproofing;
• insulation material.

The choice of insulation affects such a parameter as the pitch of the rafters. To reduce the amount of insulation, it is best to place the rafters so that the slab or mat fits tightly between them. The type of sheathing and its pitch will depend on the choice of material for roofing. You need to pay attention not only to choosing high-quality material for insulation, but also to creating an effective ventilation system.

Ventilation is arranged by preparing technological gaps

The construction of the rafter system must be carried out using fireproof materials. All parts should be treated with fire retardants. You will need to prepare the following elements:

• wooden blocks with a cross section of 100x50 mm;
• slats 50x150 mm;
• unedged boards;
• building level;
• self-tapping screws;
• nails;
• steel wire with a diameter of 4–5 mm;
• plumb line;
• roulette;
• hacksaw;
• axe;
• hammer;
• sharp knife.

Drafting

One of the most important parts of the work is drafting the project. It is very important to analyze the layout features of a private house. It is necessary to determine the dimensions and shape of the structure being built, and also provide for the placement of windows and a balcony.

Everything on the project should be marked structural elements

In the process of drawing up a project, the following requirements must be taken into account:

1. It is important to decide in advance what the height of the attic should be. It should be remembered that the distance from the floor base to the highest point of the structure must be at least 0.5 m.
2. It is recommended to take into account the heating area and the main interior elements.
3. The attic layout should be expanded. If you plan to install windows, they must be indicated on the drawing.

Drawing up a drawing must begin with choosing a shape, determining the cross-section of the rafter legs and the step of their placement. To determine the size of the rafters, you need to take into account the following parameters:

• slope;
• roof roofing material;
• climate features in the construction region.

It is also important to provide the required number of rafters in the project. They can be layered or hanging type.

Rafters can be hanging or layered

At the end, you should determine the number of parts to fix. In the figure below you can see some of the data necessary for the calculation, but drawing up a project is a complex process. This work It is recommended to entrust it to qualified specialists.

Mauerlat installation

The design of the attic roof rafter system should be selected based on the type of roof, as well as the prepared attic design. A simple option is a design with two slopes.

The main details of a roof rafter system with two slopes are:

• linear elements (column, rod system, beam);
• flat parts (slab, flooring, panel);
• spatial elements (vault, shell, volumetric part).

Before carrying out work, you will need to thoroughly dry the wood. The first step is to mark and install the Mauerlat. It is fixed to the walls of the building. The part can be made from a block or a powerful lath. If you plan to build a roof with two slopes, then the Mauerlat is laid on the long walls of the building. The element is necessary not only for reliable fixation of the lower part of the rafters, but also for the correct distribution of the load on the walls and the main part of the building.

To fix the Mauerlat, you should use metal pins that are attached to a beam made of monolithic concrete.

To fix the Mauerlat, you need to install metal pins

The beam should be placed at the top of the wall. It is also possible to use steel wire embedded in brickwork.

To secure the Mauerlat to the upper rim of a wooden wall, you need to use wooden dowels. Auerlat requires high-quality waterproofing of timber timber. Therefore, it is necessary to use roofing felt or other material with water-repellent properties.

Before installing the Mauerlat, the base must be covered with roofing felt.

installation of a Mauerlat is required if it is planned to erect a roof frame, the rafters of which rest against top part walls with beveled ends or prepared cutouts.

If you plan to make an attic, the width of which corresponds to the width of the building, the rafter legs should rest with their lower ends against the external supporting parts. It is possible to use powerful beams laid across long walls as supports. The number of supporting elements corresponds to the number of rafters. The beams must be secured to the walls in the same way as the Mauerlat.

Sequencing:

Frame construction

The frame of the attic roof consists of floor beams, rafters, purlins and racks

The material used is often 200x100 mm softwood bars. The floor slats are placed on top of the mauerlat with an indentation of 30–50 cm beyond the surface of the walls or into prepared grooves in the masonry. In the first case, the parts are fixed using angles and self-tapping screws.

Fixing the timber to the mauerlat can be done using steel corners

To make an even floor, the planks should be installed in this sequence:

1. First of all, the outer parts are placed level.
2. Next, you should tighten the cord and install intermediate elements along it.
3. The pitch of the beams should be from 60 to 100 cm. A distance of 60 cm makes it possible to install insulation boards without cutting.
4. To level the beams in height, they can be trimmed. Another option is to use plank underlays.
5. If beams are inserted into prepared pockets, their outer parts must be treated with liquid waterproofing and wrapped with roofing felt.

You need to place the racks on the outer planks:

After installing the racks, crossbars and purlins, you can get reliable design, which will limit the internal rooms of the attic. To increase its strength, it should be secured in the future with struts and tacks.

Installation of rafters

At this stage, the installation of the lower rafters is carried out:

After this, the upper elements are installed:

1. The first step is to mark the central part of the roof. This can be done using a stand that was previously attached to the Mauerlat and a tie from the end of the roof. The outermost part of the board should run along the center of the roof. The rafter legs need to be aligned along this board.
2. Next, you need to prepare a template from a 150x25 mm slats. It should be applied to the extreme part of the mounted batten at the required level and to the purlin on which the lower rafter legs will rest.
3. You should mark the upper and lower cuts and cut out a template. The device is applied in turn to two sides of the roof. This will make it possible to check the accuracy of the marking of the central part. If the rows of racks are placed in parallel, then there will be no difficulties in securing the upper elements - they will have identical dimensions.
4. According to the preparation, you need to prepare the required number of rafters. The parts are placed on purlins and tied together in the upper parts using iron plates or trim strips. In the latter case, self-tapping screws are used as fasteners. In the purlin, the rafter strips rest against the cuts and are caught with iron corners. To ensure that the parts stand straight, they are secured using struts mounted bottom for puffs. All rafters are installed using this method.
5. The hanging racks are fixed - pieces of 150x25 mm planks. The upper part of the batten is attached to the place where the rafters are fixed, the lower part is attached to the tie.

Video: mansard roof rafter system

Installation of struts and gables

Sequencing:

Sheathing of the structure

The sheathing is needed for:

• distribution and transfer of the weight of the roofing material to the rafters;
• performing additional fastening of the rafter system;
• bases for fixing roofing material.

The sheathing can be made in one or two layers, continuous or with vacuum.

The sheathing can be solid or with relief

The installation method depends on what material is planned to be used to cover the structure. If a roof is being built from slate or metal tiles, the sheathing should be made of slats that are attached to the rafters with nails. In this case, the installation step of adjacent planks can be 27–30 cm.

Continuous lathing is used when fastening soft material in rolls.

Continuous sheathing is necessary for soft roof

In this case, you can use moisture-resistant plywood sheets or particle boards. It is allowed to use pine wood material- trim strips.

It is important to take into account the fact that when installing such a sheathing, the material that will be laid must follow the contours of the external base. That's why frame construction must be strong and level.

When laying out the material, you should use a cord, with which the slats or slabs will lie flat. The parts must be placed parallel to each other. Before fixing, the material must be treated with an antiseptic composition to protect it from rotting, fungus and dampness. The workpieces must be smooth and of high quality. It is recommended to give preference to wood grades 1 and 2. There should be no knots on it. To prevent the boards from warping, they must first be dried.

Sequence of actions for installing the sheathing:

Waterproofing a mansard roof

The roofing material does not have thermal insulation properties, so you will need to prepare high-quality material that will be environmentally friendly for human health. Quite often mineral wool or glass wool is used. Both materials have excellent sound and heat insulation parameters. It is also important to take into account that if the roof is made of metal, if the insulation gets wet, all its qualities can be reduced to zero. Therefore, it is important to carefully consider the design.

It will not be possible to insulate an attic without laying waterproofing material, so the process should be considered in its entirety. Step by step guide for waterproofing the structure:

Practice has shown that it is better to protect insulation using modern materials, for example, Tyvek or Izospan. The use of ordinary polyethylene film gives poor results, as condensation may appear. Experienced craftsmen They believe that the structure should not be waterproofed with roofing felt.

Before proceeding with the work, you need to decide on the thermal insulation material.

Mineral wool is a fairly popular material used for roof insulation.

The most commonly used heat insulators are:

• glass wool;
• mineral wool;
• Styrofoam;
• foam glass;
• wood shavings;
• straw.

The material must be selected taking into account four parameters.

1. Thermal conductivity index. For roof insulation, 0.05 W/m*K or lower is optimal.
2. Water resistance. The higher the score, the better.
3. Fire resistance.
4. Environmental Safety.

The insulating qualities of mineral wool deteriorate significantly after some time. The material can also be damaged under the influence of mechanical loads. However, mineral wool has low cost, so the material is used quite often. Polyfoam is not afraid of water and has excellent thermal insulation characteristics. If you plan to build a house only from environmentally friendly materials, then you can use foam glass or straw.

Step-by-step guide to roof insulation:

Laying roofing materials and installing window openings

As an example, we will consider the installation of metal tiles, since this material is used quite often:

The number of windows is determined by the ratio of the useful glazing area to the base of the floor of 1:10. For example, if the attic area is 100 m2, then the glazing should be approximately 10 m2. When installing windows, you need to take into account such nuances.

The attic does not have to be used as a place to store unnecessary things. Very often, the area of ​​​​this room allows you to equip it with a full-fledged living area or a place for family leisure or hobbies. The idea of ​​such construction has been successfully used since the mid-17th century thanks to the French architect Francois Mansart and is especially relevant for increasing the area of ​​a private house, and sometimes city apartments.

How to inhabit an attic, what measures should be taken for this and how to build an attic where there has never been one? Look for answers to these questions in our article.

We are building an attic

Installing an attic will help to significantly reduce construction costs as a whole, rationally use the available floor space and realize the most daring ideas. The attic floor can occupy either the entire attic or part of it, depending on the purpose of the future room: bedroom, office, office or bathroom.

Cozy do-it-yourself attic

Building an attic with your own hands also provides the following advantages:

• The infrastructure of the main building is fully used.
• The living space increases significantly.
• Reducing heat loss through the roof and, as a result, reducing energy costs during the cold season.
• Relatively simple installation (without the use of special equipment) and the ability to stay in the house during construction.
• Possibility of building a one- or two-level floor.

How to make an attic a unique architectural element

Important: When building an attic floor with your own hands, you need to consider design features buildings, including: the height of the walls, the shape of the roof, the location of communications - and comply with fire safety requirements.

Features of the construction of the attic floor

The roof is an enclosing structure, which, in addition to precipitation and temperature changes from the outside, is subject to influences from the inside: heat and moisture from the living space, and these can cause dampness and corrosion. Therefore, when constructing an attic floor, very stringent requirements are put forward for hydro-, steam- and thermal insulation of the roof, compliance with which will ensure reliable protection premises from negative factors.

How to properly insulate an attic floor during construction

Also, when building an attic floor, it is important to take care of high-quality ventilation, which is installed between the insulation and the roof. This will ensure removal excess moisture and ventilation of the attic.

Particular attention should be paid to the construction technology and the materials used (especially their weight) - this will ensure the safe operation of the attic floor in the future. In addition, do not forget that using the attic floor as a living space does not eliminate compliance with the technical requirements for the operation of the roof.

Where to start construction?

Before construction begins, a technical examination of the building is carried out. It is worth remembering that initially the walls and foundation of the building were designed for a certain load, and the construction of an additional floor will significantly increase it, so it is worth making sure of their load-bearing capacity.

Construction of a frame attic

Design

The next stage of construction will be the development and approval of the attic floor project - for this it is better to contact qualified specialists who will help draw up a competent drawing, calculate the loads and estimates.

Important: If the construction of an attic with your own hands is carried out within the city limits, then for this it is necessary to obtain permission from the city authorities, an expert opinion and the consent of all owners of the building.

The attic floor plan is developed based on the layout of the main building, with the geometry of the roof playing a dominant role. The architectural appearance of the house will influence not only the design rafter system, but also on materials used in construction and individual elements attics. All structures and parts must be as lightweight as possible, which will ensure minimal load on the walls of the building and ensure easy lifting of materials to the floor.

If the roof of the house has a large slope, then the choice of roofing materials, insulation and waterproofing during the construction of the attic floor should be approached especially carefully.

In addition, all communications of the attic floor must be interconnected with the systems in the house, and their joint operation must be ensured.

The shape of the room, as well as its dimensions, determine the choice of windows, their design and placement in the interior.

Construction of an attic

Regardless of whether the attic is being built with your own hands, photo below, in an existing attic or is being built from scratch, it is necessary to ensure the unity of architectural and design solutions.

Can be built on wooden attic on a brick house

The attic structure is best made of wood (timber) or metal profile In addition, you can complete the floor from SIP panels, as in the photo below. Stone materials, including brick and concrete, are not recommended for construction due to their heavy weight. As a last resort, you can use aerated concrete blocks.

We build an attic with our own hands using SIP panels

Strong but lightweight materials are also suitable for roofing, such as: corrugated sheets, bitumen or composite tiles, metal tiles.

Since the attic has a large surface area in contact with the environment and significant heat loss occurs through the roof, it is necessary to take care of high-quality and effective thermal insulation of this floor. For insulation, it is best to use mineral wool or fiberglass with a thickness of 150 mm or more. On the inside of the attic floor, the insulation must be covered with a vapor barrier, and on the roof side - with waterproofing. In addition, it is necessary to install a ventilation system between the waterproofing and the roof, which will ensure the removal of excess moisture.

Since the attic is a living space, it needs natural light, which windows will help provide. These can be like regular vertical ones window designs, which are mounted in the walls, or special inclined windows installed in the roof plane at an angle of 15-90 degrees.

Dormer windows - expensive but effective

Important: Dormer windows let in more light than standard windows with a smaller opening area. To ensure the most efficient and uniform lighting, the ratio of window area to floor area should be 1:10.

The final stage of the attic floor installation will be Finishing work. The simplest option for cladding the walls of the attic floor is plasterboard; it can be used to construct internal partitions. GKL sheets are attached to a frame made of metal profiles, after which they are puttied and the finishing coating can be applied: paint, wallpaper, etc. In addition to plasterboard, the walls can be sheathed with clapboard, wood panels— the choice of material depends on the purpose and design of the future attic. The same materials that are used throughout the building are suitable for the floor: parquet, laminate, batten, ceramic tiles, etc.

After construction is completed, you can start decorating: think through the interior, install a staircase, arrange furniture, etc.

More information about building an attic with your own hands (video):

Attic floor extension

The addition of an attic floor allows you to simply and effectively increase living space without the use of expensive equipment and complex technologies, and such construction can be carried out both in a private house and in a standard urban building. The cost of completion is approximately half of the cost of new construction. The structure can be wooden - from logs and timber; stone - made of foam blocks, brick and concrete; made of metal, as well as their various combinations.

Monolithic attic can have any shape

It is necessary to determine which part of the building structure will bear the load from the extension. If the strength of the walls and foundation is not enough, you will need to install racks on the outside of the building on a separate foundation that will support the attic floor. New attic frame independent foundation also necessary in an old house if bearing structures have significant wear. It would be a good idea to replace the attic floor, since it is most likely not designed for heavy loads.

The construction of an attic involves the construction of a power structure, which depends on the roof truss system. To build this structure, it is better to use lightweight materials: thin-walled profiles and wood. They will help speed up construction, since fastening is carried out using bolts and rivets. Optimal angle The slope of the rafters should be 45-60 degrees.

Important: When manufacturing a rafter system, you should focus on the conditions of the area where construction is taking place. The load-bearing capacity of the roof must be designed for the pressure of wind, snow and roofing material.

The roofs themselves, picture below, can be:

• Single-pitch.
• Gable.
• Broken.
• The hip ones.

1 – simple gable roof; 2 - gable roof with attic wall; 3 – hip; 4 - hipped

The last two types are best suited for the attic, but final choice determined by the intensity of the load acting on the coating.

During construction, it should be taken into account that the width of the room should not be less than 4.5 m, and the area of ​​the entire attic floor should not be less than 7 m2, while the ratio of height and area is ideally 1:2.

The simplest construction option is to build a frame attic with your own hands. To install an attic, it is necessary to remove the old roof, examine the condition of the supporting structures for damage, and develop a floor plan. After this, the foundation and frame of the attic are installed. Then the roof is installed and insulated.

Learn more about how to build an attic with your own hands - video:

The attic is the roof under which the living rooms are located. By shape mansard roof may be different, but most often the attic is equipped under a gable roof. Most rational decision, allowing you to get the maximum usable area residential attic is a mansard roof with a broken slope line.

The stages of building a mansard roof with your own hands are in many ways similar to the construction of a regular roof, as are the names of the elements that make up its frame. These include:

• Mauerlat - a support beam that transfers the load from the rafters to the walls of the building;
• Floor beams - boards that form the attic floor and the ceiling of the lower floor;
• Racks - vertical supports that support the rafter system;
• Purlins – horizontal supports for rafters;
• Crossbars are transverse horizontal elements that tighten the roof slopes together, otherwise they are called puffs;
• Rafters - boards that form the main contour of the roof;
• Suspension - a suspended rack that supports the tightening and redistributes the load between the rafters;
• Lathing - boards or sheets of plywood designed for laying roofing on top of them and transferring the load to the rafter system;
• Rabs are boards fixed along the axis at the bottom of the rafters and designed to form a roof overhang.

The cross-section of roofing elements is determined using calculation; the article presents the most commonly used materials in private construction.

Construction of a sloping mansard roof and its differences

As already mentioned, a roof with broken slopes is somewhat different from a simple gable roof. The difference lies in the shape of the opposite slopes: they are not a straight line, but consist of two slopes connected at an obtuse angle. The roof can be either symmetrical or have different shape opposite slopes - it depends on the project.

Thanks to the broken shape, the usable volume significantly increases attic room. The bottom of the rafters is usually set at an angle of about 60 degrees to the horizontal, and the support posts supporting these rafters act as the frame for the interior walls. The upper part of the rafters is most often installed at a slight angle, from 15 to 45 degrees - this allows you to save materials, but maintain the functionality of the roof and its resistance to snow loads.

Vertical posts supported by floor beams, purlins and tie rods connecting them form a parallelepiped that limits the internal dimensions of the attic. To give the structure additional rigidity, struts are installed between the floor beams and the lower rafters. After installing the upper rafters, hanging supports - headstocks - are installed to strengthen the truss and eliminate sagging of the crossbars. To further strengthen the lower rafters, they are pulled together with the racks using contractions. The elements are fastened using nails and bolts or studs.

Calculation of the dimensions of the attic roof

The main condition for a comfortable attic installation is the ceiling height - it should not be lower than 2.5 meters. To ensure such a height of the room, the break line of the attic roof must be at a height of at least 2.8 meters, taking into account the thickness of the insulation layer and the internal lining of the attic, as well as the thickness of the finished floors.

Before you start purchasing materials and building a roof, you need to draw detailed drawing, which will indicate dimensions houses, slope line and attic height.

Drawing - dimensions of the attic roof

Technology for constructing a sloping mansard roof

1. Install a Mauerlat around the perimeter of the house. In wooden buildings, the top beam or log serves as the mauerlat. In stone - brick or block - buildings, the mauerlat beams are attached to studs or anchors, fixed in the walls during laying at a distance of no more than 2 meters. The mauerlat is leveled along the inner plane of the wall, and the remaining outside wall is later covered with decorative masonry. Mauerlat timber made from dry softwood usually has a cross-section of 100 or 150 mm. Sawing off timber required length, straighten the anchor pins if necessary and place the timber on top of them. Tapping lightly with a hammer. Indentations from the studs remain on the timber; a hole of the required diameter is drilled along them. You can also mark the timber using a tape measure, but the likelihood of error in this case is higher. Placed on the wall roll waterproofing, you can use regular roofing felt in two layers. The Mauerlat is put on the studs and the nuts are tightened.

   

2. For floor beams, coniferous timber with a section of 100x200 mm is usually used. The floor beams are placed either on top of the mauerlat, extending 0.3-0.5 meters beyond the plane of the walls, or in specially designed pockets in the masonry. In the first case, the beams are secured using corners and self-tapping screws. To make the floors even, the beams are placed in a strict sequence: first, the outermost ones in level, then, by pulling the string, the intermediate ones are aligned along them. The pitch of floor beams is usually from 50 to 100 cm, but the most convenient is a step of 60 cm, which allows you to lay insulation boards without trimming. To level the height of the beams, they are propped up or linings from the board are used. If the beams are placed in special pockets in the masonry, their ends must be processed coating waterproofing and wrapped with roofing felt. Align them in the same way.
3. Racks are installed on the outer floor beams. The outer racks are made of 100x150 mm timber; the height and installation line of the racks are determined according to a previously prepared drawing. The racks are leveled using a level and plumb line and temporarily secured with jibs in perpendicular directions - along and across the axis of the roof. This will allow you to install the racks without deviation in any direction. The jibs are made from any board and nailed. A string is pulled between the outer drains and the remaining racks are placed along it with a pitch equal to the pitch of the floor beams, that is, on each beam. All racks are secured in the same way as the outer ones. You should end up with two rows of posts of the same height, running parallel to each other.

   

4. Purlins from 50x150 mm boards are laid and secured on the racks, the purlins are secured to 150 mm nails and to corners using self-tapping screws. Place crossbars made of 50x200 mm boards on the purlins with the narrow side down - this will increase their rigidity. Since there will be no load on the crossbars during operation, such a section of the board is quite sufficient; however, in order to prevent their deflection and increase reliability during the installation process, when installing the crossbars, temporary supports made of boards no thinner than 25 mm are placed under them. The top of the crossbar is fastened with one or two boards - also temporarily, until the rafters are installed. In this case, the boards should not be placed in the middle of the tightening - there they will interfere with further installation, but retreating about 30 cm. After installing the racks, purlins and crossbars, you get a rigid structure that limits interior spaces attics. To increase its strength, it is subsequently secured with struts and contractions.
5. Installed from 50x150 mm boards. First, a template is made from a 25x150 mm board - it is easier and faster to process. A board of the required length is applied to the upper purlin, the shape of the cut is drawn directly on the board and it is cut out. Apply the template to the purlin in the places where the rafters are installed, and if it matches everywhere, then the upper part of all rafters can be made according to the template. The lower part, resting on the mauerlat next to the floor beams, is cut out in place each time. The rafters are secured using corners and self-tapping screws and nails.

   

6. To make the upper rafters, you need to mark the center of the roof. This can be done using a temporary stand nailed to the Mauerlat and an extreme tie from the end of the roof so that one edge of the board runs along the center line of the roof. The rafters are aligned along this edge. Next, prepare a template from a 25x150 mm board, placing it at the edge of the installed board at the desired level and to the purlin on which the lower rafters rest. Mark the upper and lower cuts and cut out the template. Apply it alternately to both sides of the roof, checking how accurately its center is marked. If the rows of racks are made in parallel, then there should be no problems with installing the upper rafters - they will all have the same size.
7. Perform according to the template required amount rafter legs. The rafters are installed on purlins and connected at the top using overhead metal plates or cutting boards with self-tapping screws. In the purlin, the rafters rest on the notches and are secured to the corners. In order for the rafters to stand straight, they are secured using struts, installed with the lower end on the ties. This is how all the rafters are placed. Attach hanging racks - pieces of board 25x150 mm. The upper edge of the board is fixed at the junction of the rafters, the lower edge - to the tie.
8. Place struts under the lower rafters from 50x150 mm boards, resting them with the lower oblique cut against the floor beam and securing them to the corners, and the upper edge is attached to the side rafter leg, nailed onto one or two nails, after which a through hole is drilled and secured to a bolt or stud. After installing the lower struts, remove all temporary supports and posts.
9. Sew up the gables, leaving door and window openings. If the floor beams are laid in wall pockets, fillies are attached to the lower rafters - boards that continue the line of the rafters and form the roof overhang. When laying floors on top of the mauerlat, the beams already protrude to the required distance, and there is no need for fillers.
10. , corresponding to the type of roofing - continuous or sparse. Waterproofing is placed on the sheathing and installation of the roof covering, for example, begins.

A broken attic roof usually does not need insulation - only the walls and ceiling of the attic are insulated. The air space created under the rafters ensures good ventilation of the attic, reduces heating of the attic rooms in the summer and provides additional thermal insulation in the winter. Therefore, when sewing up the gables, it is important to leave ventilation windows in the upper part of the roof, above the ceilings of the attic floor.

Video - instructions for constructing an attic roof

It is difficult to imagine the modern design of a cottage or house without the presence of an attic floor. It is also being built everywhere in old houses in place of a dilapidated attic, thereby increasing the total living space. A do-it-yourself attic is a complex project, but doable.

Do-it-yourself attic construction - first steps

In fact, this is not so - most experts in the field of attic construction unanimously claim that from the angle of inclination and other changes in the design of the rafters, the walls experience enormous load and are subject to significant deformation. Therefore, before making an attic yourself, we highly recommend contacting a specialist so that he can carry out preliminary calculations and, based on them, draw up a design for a rafter system that is suitable in your case.

Construction of houses with an attic - choosing the right technology

Today there are quite a lot of buildings that have a clearly defined attic. This or absolutely new house, where the attic was designed in advance, or it was attached to an old building, which was originally thick-walled and solid. The easiest way to recognize an attic is by its gable sloping roof - this is the most suitable design for building an attic floor.

The use of a gable sloping roof on the walls of a house compared to pitched roof exerts a huge burden. However, for an attic room it is much more convenient, since it creates a lot of space inside.

A gable broken structure has a drawback - in the absence of a sufficient number of load-bearing supports, the roof is less durable in comparison with a single-pitch roof roofing system, and additional load-bearing supports put additional pressure on the walls. The construction of a gable sloping roof, as a rule, requires the use of layered rafters, which require massive building walls that can withstand vertical and horizontal loads.

How to build a house with an attic - roofing system

The convenience of the attic space determines the ability to move around full height under the rafter system. Please note that for insulation you will need to allocate from 10 to 15 cm from each surface, including the ceiling. So the first impression about the height of the attic may be wrong. However, the safety of the entire structure should be put in the first position. To install additional reinforcing beams, it would be correct to cut off some part of the attic rather than risk destroying the entire roof frame.

Before building a house with an attic, prepare necessary tools and materials. Everything is simple with tools: a hammer, a hacksaw or a jigsaw, all kinds measuring instruments. Materials - nails or screws of various lengths, antifungal agent, 40 * 150 mm board for lathing at intervals, for creating a continuous sheathing - OSB sheets.

The type of roof covering determines the design of the sheathing. If you plan to use soft material for the roof, then the best option would be a continuous sheathing, and if it is hard, install the sheathing in a staggered manner using your own hands. In the process of installing a wooden frame (rafters and sheathing), you should immediately make places for the location of roof windows. It is also necessary to think in advance about the reliable fastening of window frames.

Attic in a private house - auxiliary elements

There are primary and secondary elements of the attic. The first includes insulation, rafters and supporting structures, and the second includes windows, doors and drainage systems. Both play an important role. The hardest thing can be to decide on the windows. Before you start choosing windows for the attic, you need to clearly understand their purpose in terms of functionality. Today, the building materials market offers the buyer two types of windows - inclined and vertical.

It is known that the first ones are mounted directly in the roof plane and transmit 40–45% more natural (sun) light than vertical ones. But in winter, the slanted windows are covered with snow, which negatively affects both the overall illumination of the room and their technical condition. The doors to the attic act as a kind of connecting link between this room and the main building. They should be selected according to two main criteria: the first is strength, the second is good properties thermal insulation.

In addition, the doors should not stand out from the overall interior and there should be a free entrance to the attic through them. Creating an attic with your own hands is impossible without a drainage system. In this regard, with vertical windows much simpler, since they come complete with ebbs, but when installing inclined windows, you need to carefully consider the gutter system in advance, otherwise the room located under the attic will constantly experience the negative effects of excess water and moisture.

The attic allows you to significantly expand the usable area of ​​the house. At the same time, the arrangement of the under-roof floor can be carried out even in an already finished building. At the same time, financial expenses will be relatively small, because the basic necessary structures will already be present, and with the implementation of all necessary measures you can handle it on your own.

First of all, you must make sure that the foundation of the house can withstand the additional load from the attic floor. If necessary, the foundation must be strengthened or an attempt must be made to transfer new loads to a separate foundation. At this stage, you may need professional help.

Solve the issue of attic design. The under-roof floor can have a variety of shapes. In this case, the internal space of the room is determined by the features roofing structure.

The attic roof must be designed in a special way. You will have to get rid of the old rafters and related materials, replacing them with a new system designed taking into account the upcoming loads, angle of inclination and other important design features.

Thus, truss structure must be calculated and designed in accordance with separately, specifically for your attic floor.

The most optimal roofing structure for the attic floor is a broken line gable roof. A gable roof will place a much greater load on the walls compared to single slope system. However, you will not find a more convenient roof option for the attic floor.

In this case, the broken roof will “eat” the least amount of free space in the attic compared to all other types of roofs.

It is important that gable roof had a sufficient number of load-bearing supports. Typically, layered rafters are used to construct such a roof. In this case, the elements of the rafter system must rest on load-bearing walls, capable of normally withstanding incoming vertical and horizontal loads.

Before starting construction, decide what area the under-roof floor should have, whether you will insulate it and whether you need to install heating in the attic.

In accordance with your own preferences, draw up (order, find in open sources) an attic project with sketches, drawings, calculations and explanations.

The design documentation should reflect the following important features attics:

• the presence of additional partitions and load-bearing walls;
• number of window openings;
• peculiarities internal device roofs;
• type of roofing material, etc.

After this, calculate the required amount of materials for arranging the attic. It is best to make an attic using the same materials from which the structure itself is built (brick, blocks, etc.).

If you plan to use the attic exclusively for seasonal living, you can make it out of more budget materials. Typically, wood is used in such situations. This material fits perfectly with most existing building materials and is perfect for furnishing an attic.

Start setting up wooden frame– roof basics. Select suitable places for placing blocks needed for arranging partitions.

First you will need to lay out the exterior and gable walls. Proceed with the arrangement of the attic roof only after the construction of the house itself has been completed.

To assemble the frame, use a high-quality wooden beam measuring 15x5 cm. When performing each stage of the work, be guided by the sketches and drawings you have. It is impossible to explain everything solely in words.

First step

Strengthen the existing structure with slings. To strengthen the purlins, use special support blocks in the shape of the letter U. Blocks are installed and poured cement mortar. This strengthening will prevent further cracking of the walls.

Second step

Build solid gable walls and begin building the attic. After installing all necessary walls start installing the elements of the rafter system.

Third step

Install the rafters according to project documentation and make sure the installed system is reliable.

First you need to install the purlins, and only after that fix the rafters. First you need to lay out the stepped wall slopes, and then arrange the partitions of the attic floor. Be sure to make sure that the elements of the rafter system are evenly positioned.

Fourth step

Align the slopes of the gable walls using a band saw.

Fifth step

Nail batten boards to the rafters to install the insulating material. Secure the waterproofing, insulation and vapor barrier, and then lay another layer of boards on top of the waterproofing.

Sixth step

Apply your chosen finish to the sheathing. It is better that the finishing roofing material is as reliable and high quality as possible, so that the attic is cozy, warm and safe.

After completing the work on arranging the walls and roof of the attic, proceed to insulation and interior arrangement of the under-roof room.

A wide variety of materials can be used to insulate the attic. For example, mineral wool insulation, expanded polystyrene, all kinds of blocks, etc. are very suitable for performing such work. One of the most preferred thermal insulation materials is fiberboard. Using this material as an example, the procedure for insulating an attic room will be considered.

In the case of using slabs with a thickness of 1.2 cm, the thermal insulation characteristics of such insulation will be similar to the properties of a wall laid in brick, or finishing made of boards about 5 cm thick.

In addition, the slabs have good noise insulation properties. Factory treatment with antiseptic preparations makes the material resistant to adverse external factors, and the relatively low price allows almost everyone to buy such slabs.

The most suitable material for attic insulation is fiberboard

On one side the slabs have a slightly corrugated texture, and on the other they are smooth. To cut slabs, you can use an ordinary sharp knife. The material is not particularly afraid of temperature and humidity changes. At the same time, work on thermal insulation of surfaces using fiberboard will not take much effort and time.

Finally, you can glue wallpaper to the smooth side of the fiberboard (the smooth side is the front side) or perform another finishing touch at your discretion.

Walls

Traditionally, thermal insulation work begins with insulating the walls. It is enough to fix the slabs with nails. First, duralumin plates should be placed under the fastener heads. Place the nails themselves staggered.

If the walls are not made of wood, you may need to use other fasteners. Focus on the situation.

To attach slabs to plastered surfaces, you can also use PVA glue or various types of adhesive mastics.

Ceiling

At the stage of covering the ceiling, try to enlist the support of at least one assistant - the slabs have quite big size and attaching them alone is not particularly convenient.

The cladding is carried out according to an extremely simple scheme: the slab is carefully applied to the fastening point and fixed using T-supports made of boards, nails and duralumin plates. Wear safety glasses at this point.

The floor can be insulated using two methods.

In accordance with the first method, the surface is first covered with a double layer of roofing material, after which fiberboard is fixed on top, and then the finished floor is installed.

In accordance with the second option, fiberboard slabs are nailed to the floor and glued on top of them carpet covering. This coating is very convenient. For additional convenience, it is recommended to impregnate it with a special composition that makes further maintenance of the carpet easier.

Before gluing the carpet, it must be unrolled and kept in the room for 7-10 days. Fiberboard boards are pre-coated with glue. After gluing the fiberboard, you need to additionally press it to the surface using boards and leave to dry for a day.

In conclusion, all you have to do is carry out a number of works on the internal improvement of the attic. Start from the ceiling.

Ceiling

The best option– arrangement of the lung suspended ceiling. Lining is well suited for the construction of such a structure. You can also use hardboard, plywood or other suitable materials.

It is more convenient to first make the ceiling to size, and then attach it to the crossbar of the truss.

Walls

Nail crossbars made of high-quality material to the rafter posts. wooden beam. Nail the chosen one to the frame finishing material. The best option is wooden lining.

Niches

In places where niches form (and they will definitely be present due to the peculiarities of the roofing structure), you can nail drywall or other suitable material, creating compact cabinets for storing various types of accessories.

Depending on the available space on the attic floor, you can arrange a bedroom, study, or children's room. Focus on the specifics of your situation.

Lighting

Consider the procedure for arranging the attic lighting. The best option– organization of local lighting for each corner of the room. This way the interior of the attic will be most expressive.

In matters of furnishing and further arrangement of the under-roof floor, be guided by your needs and capabilities.

Good luck!

Video - Do-it-yourself attic construction