When white midges or strawberry whiteflies appear on strawberries, you need to sound the alarm. This is the most dangerous and most worst enemy plants, although it looks very attractive. Most often she hides with inside petal. It can be confused with a moth or a small butterfly. If you touch its wings, you can see that they are covered with a white waxy coating. This insect has two long rather than wide wings. She small size, no more than 3 mm. The whitefly is afraid of direct hits sun rays, so it hides in the shade of leaves.
This is a very prolific insect, and in one spring-summer season 4 generations are replaced. One female whitefly can lay up to 20 eggs, from which larvae will emerge; they are quite active. These larvae attach themselves to the leaf and begin to feed on its juices. During the period of degeneration of the larvae into an adult, their whiskers and legs disappear.
How can you tell if there is a whitefly in a strawberry patch?
If action is not taken immediately, a flock of such butterflies can easily destroy a strawberry plantation.
What is the danger of whiteflies for strawberries?
In addition to the loss of juices, midges on strawberries cause even more trouble. A fungal spore that has already infected the plant covers the surface sheet plate, while disrupting the process of photosynthesis. A sticky crust forms on the leaf, it begins to change color, darkens and dies. On top of all the problems, the butterfly is also a spreader of various strawberry diseases. Therefore, when such birds are discovered in strawberry plantings, you must immediately begin to fight them.
How to deal with white-winged insects?
Summer residents have three options for how to overcome these butterflies - these are folk remedies, biological and chemical methods.
What makes the fight against insects more difficult is that it multiplies too quickly. The lifespan of a butterfly is no more than a month. And even in such a short period, she is capable of laying more than a hundred eggs. Strawberry beds that are cultivated in the garden, in open ground, are attacked by insects only in the spring months. If strawberries are cultivated in a greenhouse, then midges must be fought all year round.
Another reason why you need to start fighting whiteflies immediately is that chemicals only affect adults. The larvae have strong immunity to any drugs.
Traditional methods of fighting midges
Chemicals poison the soil and future harvests. That's why experienced gardeners They try to start fighting white flies on strawberries using folk methods in the initial stages.
Whitefly is a dangerous pest of vegetable gardens. A whole swarm of small white midges literally sticks around the plants and not only sucks out the nutritious juices, but also acts as a carrier of diseases. Therefore, it is so important to protect plantings from whiteflies, and to take immediate action at the first signs of damage.
What harm does whitefly cause?
This tiny insect, no more than 2 mm long, is highly fertile. Its mass distribution is facilitated by warm but damp weather. Midges often appear in greenhouses, where high humidity air and no ventilation. Adults lay eggs on the underside of the leaf, from which larvae soon emerge.
An adult female whitefly lives about 30 days, during which time she can lay up to 140 eggs.
The life cycle from egg to adult is only 18–20 days. If left untreated, the larvae weaken the plants by drinking their juices, and the adults eat the green pulp.
A small moth lays its eggs on the underside of leaves
In addition, as a result of the activity of insects, sticky secretions fall on the plants, which are colonized by sooty fungi. A severe degree of infestation leads to drying and blackening of leaves and stunted plant growth. In this case, it is impossible to completely get rid of the fungus, so it is important to prevent the spread of the harmful butterfly.
Video: whitefly and methods of combating it
Methods of pest control
There are many effective ways, with the help of which you can completely get rid of dangerous midges in the garden. However, unfavorable weather, infected planting material may cause pests.
Mechanical methods
The easiest way to remove insects is to pick them off the plants by hand or wash them with soapy water.
Plants can be cleaned of pests with a stream of water under strong pressure.
Glue traps made from a yellow plate with special glue are also used to catch whiteflies. An insect attracted by the yellow color sticks to the sticky surface and dies. The most effective use of traps is in closed ground, although they are often used in open ridges. 2 plates per area of 10 m2 are enough.
The whitefly flies towards the yellow color and immediately sticks to the trap
To protect plants from harmful midges, I use phytonets. For convenience, I install arcs over the beds on which I pull protective material. Phytogrids allow air and light to pass through well, necessary for plants, but do not allow insects to get through. Growing vegetables in a net house reduces the use of chemicals.
Phytonets reliably protect plants from pests
Fumigators
You can get rid of harmful butterflies using fumigators. In greenhouses, electrofumigators (plate or liquid) are used, which destroy pests with toxic vapors within a radius of 20–30 m. The fumes are destructive for larvae and adults, but are not dangerous for eggs. Therefore, after 2-3 weeks the procedure should be repeated.
Liquid fumigators emit fumes that poison flying pests
People and pets should not be in the treated area to avoid poisoning.
On outdoors It is more advisable to use spirals. The drug creates a protective cloud over an area of 20 m2, once in which the midges quickly die.
A spiral made of smoldering materials impregnated with insecticides clears an area of 20 square meters from flying insects
Biological methods
Garden plants suffering from whiteflies can be cleaned with the help of entomophages - ladybugs, lacewings, ground beetles. Beneficial insects will happily settle on daisies, marigolds, and marigolds planted near the beds.
The ladybug is a natural enemy of the whitefly, destroying larvae and adults
I can significantly reduce the whitefly population using biological products containing fungal spores, which, upon penetrating the insect’s body, release toxins, causing death. It is better to use the preparations in combination, treating the plants and the soil around them twice: 200 ml of Boverin + 200 ml of Metarizin\10 l or 150 ml of Bitoxibacillin + 100 ml of Lepidocide + 60 ml of Actofit\10 l.
Unlike chemical pesticides, bitoxybacillin does not contain toxins, and its active substances are protein crystals and spores of microbial culture
Video: getting rid of whiteflies
However, in case of a massive invasion of harmful midges, biological methods should be combined with chemicals in reduced doses.
Traditional methods
Many summer residents use folk remedies instead of chemicals to control pests. But with a large population of whiteflies, such methods are ineffective.
Herbal infusions
Yarrow (90 g) is placed in a jar and filled with water (1 l), left for 2 days. Then filter and spray the leaves on both sides. Two repeated treatments are carried out with a one-week break.
Yarrow is an excellent natural insecticide that kills harmful insects.
Dandelion (roots and leaves - 40 g each) is crushed, filled with water (1 l) and left in a dark place for 4 days. Then they filter and treat the plantings three times once a week.
Dry pyrethrum inflorescences (30 g) are infused in 100 g of alcohol for 12 hours. After straining, the infusion is mixed with water (1 liter) and treated three times with a break of 3 days.
An alcohol tincture is prepared from dried pyrethrum flowers to combat pests.
Garlic water
Garlic (150 g) is crushed, poured with water (1 l) and left for 5 days. After straining, add water (20 ml\10 l) and liquid soap. Carry out 3 sprayings, with a one-week waiting period between treatments.
To prepare an insecticidal solution, garlic is crushed and infused in water.
Soda ash (1 tablespoon) is stirred in warm water (3 l), iodine (12 drops) is added and 2-3 treatments are carried out at intervals of a week.
Video: fighting whiteflies in a greenhouse
Chemical method
The use of chemicals allows you to quickly and effectively get rid of pests
When using chemicals, consider the developmental stages of the whitefly. Preparations Match and Admiral kill eggs and larvae of insects, but are not able to ensure the mortality of adult individuals. The use of Aktara, Actellik, Fufanon, Fitoverma, Bi 58 leads to the death of adults. Confidor, Monsoon, Inta-vir are effective at all stages of pest development. A one-week break should be observed between treatments.
Aktara, when sprayed, is quickly absorbed by the leaves and, destroying pests that feed on the underside of the leaf, retains a protective effect for up to 28 days
Table: effective insecticides against whiteflies
Chemicals have a long period of action (3–5 weeks) and are 90% responsible for the death of the population.
Intavir is an effective insecticide of enteric contact action, which leads to rapid paralysis of all organs of the pest insect, affecting its nervous system
Good day everyone!
Today the garden theme will be devoted to this dangerous pest garden plantings, like whitefly.
Everyone who is engaged in planting on their plot is most likely familiar with this little voracious butterfly, which can deprive the entire harvest in just a matter of days.
This pest settles on the underside of the leaves and sucks the juice from the green cover of the plant. The leaves begin to turn yellow and then die. As a result, the plant itself dies.
It is not easy to detect a butterfly; it is too small, and if you do not look through the bushes and stems with leaves, you may not notice it. You can simply see that the green pets have begun to wither and dry out. And you can’t even immediately understand why this is happening.
Moreover, the whitefly is also very prolific; a female can lay 10 clutches of eggs per season. The eggs are covered with wax and cannot be easily destroyed. She winters in the ground, especially without fear of frost. It is not easy to deal with it, and it takes more than one week, and sometimes even more than one season, to get rid of it.
Let's figure out what to do with it. First, let’s see who this “white beauty” is? To know the enemy by sight.
Whiteflies, or aleurodids (lat. Aleyrodidae) are a family of small homoptera insects (Homoptera) from the suborder Sternorrhyncha (Hemiptera).
There are about 1550 species in the family. The scientific name comes from Greek word aleuron (flour) due to the powdery coating on the wings, and Russian - due to the presence of 2 pairs of white wings (from Wikipedia).
These insects can settle on absolutely all plants garden plot, and also love to live in greenhouses. And this is no coincidence, because their homeland is South America, where it is always warm. And it is the greenhouse climate that is most comfortable for them.
If you take a closer look at them, they are very small butterflies, no more than 2.5 mm in size. Therefore, detecting their population is not easy. Moreover, they initially settle on the lower part of plant leaves.
And you can see them only by disturbing a bush or branch. In this case, they take off, hover around their shelter for a few seconds, and land back. Having chosen a “home” for themselves, they do not fly far from it, but swarm nearby.
The insect is very voracious and can destroy almost all plantings. They literally suck all the juices out of the leaves. At the same time, the green cover darkens, curls, the plant becomes oppressed and gradually dies.
The female butterfly is extremely fertile. During the season it gives from 10 to 15 generations. And each individual is capable of laying from 130 to 290 eggs in one clutch. And just imagine, after 40 days, all the young individuals are already capable of laying eggs.
And, although in cold weather its ability to reproduce is reduced, it itself does not die, but waits out bad weather conditions in top layer soil, or under fallen leaves.
Outwardly, these pests resemble small moths, although they have nothing to do with them. The 4 wings of these insects are covered with a dusty powdery coating. This can be especially clearly seen through a magnifying glass.
Pale whitefly larvae yellow color, Very small size– up to 0.8 mm. They live exclusively on the underside of the leaf.
The harmful effects of this insect are twofold.
On the one hand, pests directly eat plants, on the other hand, by secreting a sweetish liquid onto the surface of the leaf, they thereby lead to the appearance of fungus. As a result, the leaves may turn black and curl. At the same time, productivity decreases sharply.
Among all plants, tomatoes, cucumbers, lettuce, celery and some flowering plants are most susceptible to butterfly attack.
Therefore, at the first sign of its appearance, you should immediately begin to destroy this pest. Although it must be said that this is not an easy task. And you need to have patience and time to fight it.
Methods for controlling whiteflies in the garden
The ideal conditions for this insect are a hot, long summer and fairly high air humidity.
However, if the temperature drops below 10 degrees, then its larvae stop growing and adults stop reproducing. But laid eggs tolerate these changes well and, for example, can be transferred with soil to a greenhouse, where larvae will certainly hatch from them.
It is not easy to destroy this malicious pest, and it is necessary to the whole complex measures to combat it. But basically they can be divided into two categories
- folk remedies
- chemicals
First of all, control measures can be based on the fact that the insect can be destroyed when it has just “settled” on the plant. At this moment, it is just possible to intervene in its development cycle and destroy it, while the female has not yet had time to lay eggs.
What are these methods?
1. One of effective methods during this period, wipe or spray the leaves of plants with soapy water. However, it is justified if you do not grow them a large number of.
If there are a lot of green pets, then this process will be too labor-intensive.
But I will still describe this option; it is applicable for many plants. What needs to be done?
Just once a week, wipe the leaves with a soft sponge dipped in soapy water. In this case, you should try not only to wet the surface with soapy water, but also to remove the larvae. You can also spray the seedlings using a sprayer. This method is especially applicable in greenhouses where plants are planted quite densely.
The solution can be prepared as follows. Grate the laundry soap into shavings and dissolve it in water in a ratio of 1:6. Before applying it to the plant, beat the solution until foamy.
You will need to spray not only the plants themselves, but also the soil around them in order to destroy the larvae deposited in it.
2. Among folk methods, a method is also used in which an infusion of garlic is made. To do this, chop a couple of cloves of garlic (more is possible) into smaller pieces and add a liter of water. Place the jar in dark place for insisting. After which the seedlings should be treated once a week for two to three weeks.
3. Butterflies also do not like dandelion infusion. Both roots and leaves are used for its preparation. You should take 40 grams of both and grind them by slicing. Then fill it all with a liter of water. It will take a little longer to infuse than garlic, namely 4 days.
After this, the solution is ready for use. You will need to spray the plants with it twice, with a break of one week.
4. Regarding chemical methods fight, there are quite a lot of drugs. And you can always buy them in the store.
One of these drugs is Iskra. He has high efficiency its impact. And therefore it is available both in the form of powder and in the form of sticks, and it can also be purchased in ampoules, which are diluted in a certain amount of water. according to instructions.
This product is especially useful for watering. It penetrates the plant through the soil and exerts its effect on insects within 25 days. Eating the leaves of such plants, the butterfly dies.
However, be aware that when you use such preparations, there are certain periods during which the fruits of the plant, its leaves and stems cannot be eaten. Therefore, read the instructions carefully!
Other similar remedies include Fitoverm, Akarin, Zeta, Alatar, etc.
How to deal with pests on strawberries and wild strawberries during the fruiting period
It is quite easy to notice it on strawberries. It is enough to shake the bush a little and small white insects will immediately fly into the air. On the reverse side of the leaf, if you turn it over, you can find larvae, and the leaf itself will eventually become covered with a whitish coating.
To combat pests on strawberries, both folk and chemicals. The most effective among chemical agents are Aktara, Aktellik and Rovikurt.
Actellik is a liquid in ampoules that is used four times per season. Rovikurt is an oily liquid and is used if strawberries are already massively infected with whitefly.
But they cannot be used during the harvest period. The period of decomposition for many chemicals ranges from 20 to 25 days.
In addition to chemicals, a biological insecticide such as Verticillin helps well.
This is a fungus that, when multiplying, affects the insect and destroys it.
Folk remedies include sticky traps, which contain sticky substances such as honey, petroleum jelly and castor oil. Since insects do not fly far from their bush, which they have established, quite a lot of traps should be installed.
And in order for them to stick to them faster, you just need to lightly shake the seedlings. In this case, the larvae will, of course, remain where they were deposited, but the adult individuals, having taken off, will most likely fall for the trick.
The above-described use of garlic infusion and a solution based on laundry soap.
Folk remedies for controlling whitefly on cabbage
Cabbage is usually not planted as much and en masse as, for example, onions and dill, so washing the leaves soap solution will come in handy.
It is necessary to wash the leaves on both sides.
You can get rid of the larvae by spraying the plants with special infusions. Garlic, yarrow or dandelion infusions help well. Having prepared them with any of these components (usually infused for 4 days), you need to spray the cabbage once every three days.
We spray until the pest is completely gone.
It’s not difficult to make your own sticky trap. To do this, take cardboard, cut it into small squares and paint it yellow.
It is believed that butterflies fly to this color.
After this, cover the cardboard with an adhesive, such as honey, Vaseline or some kind of glue that takes a long time to dry. Place traps near the plants and disturb the family.
Another preparation that can be prepared is a bleach solution. To do this, take 0.5 kg of lime and dilute it in 12 liters of water. Leave for 5 hours. Then process the cabbage.
This method is better suited for greenhouse cabbage, but you can also treat plants in open ground with it.
How to get rid of a pest on onions
Onions are one of the traditional and common garden plants. Like other plants, it is also susceptible to attack by pests.
All previously described methods are also suitable for killing harmful insects on onions. In addition, you can also prepare a citrus infusion.
For this you will need dry orange and lemon peels. 50 g of zest is poured into a liter of water. Leave for two days. And after this period, two tablespoons of a solution with laundry soap are added to the solution. The plantings are treated within five days by simple spraying.
And, of course, do not forget about the use of various chemicals.
This method is good when there are a lot of pests. In this case, only drastic measures will help, aimed not at repelling, but at destroying insects. When using chemicals, it is recommended to add a little soap or shampoo to them so that the substance sticks better to the treated plants.
How to get rid of whiteflies in a greenhouse (greenhouse)
The butterfly that runs in greenhouses and hotbeds belongs to the greenhouse species.
It was created for her favorable climate and therefore, if she has already settled there, then getting rid of it will not be easy. In any case, any one method will not be sufficient. A whole range of measures must be observed.
Let's consider these measures.
And the first of them is not to introduce the pest along with the planting material.
The second one is preventive measures.
- remove all plant debris from the greenhouse without leaving it for the winter. Insects overwinter well under leaves and branches
- if the greenhouse is already infected, then in the spring you should remove a layer of soil of 5 - 7 cm.
- in spring and autumn, treat the walls, transoms and doors of greenhouses with infusions of garlic, dandelion, or chemicals
- fumigation with a sulfur bomb in autumn and spring
If found, you must:
- remove larvae from leaves
- treat with insecticides
- treat plants with various folk remedies
- set traps
- introduce enemy insects, such as ladybugs or lacewings, into greenhouses
Currently, in industrial greenhouses, to combat butterflies, their insect enemies are used - beetles that lay their eggs in the body of whiteflies, mites, lacewings, and ladybugs. They are simply placed there and they fight the butterflies naturally.
Not all of them can be settled in their greenhouses, but ladybugs will settle in on their own if dill is sown there.
Since tomatoes and cucumbers are most often grown in greenhouses, let’s consider what measures can be taken to preserve them.
Methods of pest control on tomatoes
You are always upset when you see a pest on your plants, which you have been taking care of since spring. And that includes tomatoes. Although the butterfly settles on them and not often, as on other crops, cases are still present.
Symptoms of small white insects settling on plants are yellowed and curled leaves. As a result, the shoots begin to weaken and wither. In addition, the larvae secrete mucus, which causes sooty fungus to appear. You can see and recognize it by the black coating on the back of the sheet.
To remove both larvae and plaque, use a soap solution in which a sponge or cotton swab is moistened. All leaves are wiped while the larvae are removed. But the processing doesn't end there.
You can use the method of lowering the temperature. It is known that adults and larvae die at temperatures below 10 degrees. However, this does not apply to their eggs.
It is better to use chemicals when there is a mass accumulation of the pest. If you find a small amount of whitefly, you can deal with it with just a soap solution.
In this case, the use of traps and sticky tapes can also help. You can either purchase them in a store or make them yourself. To do this, you just need to cut out squares from cardboard, paint them yellow, or glue them colored paper desired color. Then pour in any sticky substance (honey, Vaseline, glue that takes a long time to dry will do).
Hang in large quantities around the greenhouse and lightly shake the plant branches.
You can also use fumigators with liquids, or just plates. Or set fire to the spiral and let it smoke for a while.
Among folk remedies, this is again a soap solution, or an infusion of dandelions or garlic.
You can also use wood ash. Pour 5 liters of warm water onto a glass of ash and leave for 4 hours. Next, rub 50 g of laundry soap into the product. After this, it is filtered and sprayed throughout the greenhouse for three days.
You can also use ammonia. 35 ml of alcohol dissolves in a bucket of water. Plants are treated every three days until all pests are destroyed.
How to get rid of whiteflies on cucumbers during fruiting period
Signs of the appearance of white babok on cucumbers are:
- curling or curling of leaves
- deformation of shoots and leaves
- the appearance of yellow or brown spots
- larvae on the underside of the leaf
- swarming (years) of adults over plants
Pest control comes down, first of all, to changing its life cycle. That is, simply put, you need to prevent adult females from laying eggs and the larvae from growing.
For this purpose, regular ventilation of the greenhouse helps, which leads to a decrease in temperature in it.
Sticky traps are used to catch insects; they were described in the section on tomatoes. But you can also make a light trap. To do this, take a box and attach a yellow light bulb inside. A container of water is placed under it. Insects fly towards the light and fall into the water.
Traditional methods, which can be used in a greenhouse with cucumbers, are the same as for other plants: garlic, dandelion infusions, etc.
There are good biological control measures that involve attracting insect predators. For example, ladybugs. We have already written about this above.
If we are fighting a butterfly during the fruiting period of cucumbers, then it is clear that we cannot use chemical means of protection. And you can use all folk remedies equally.
After harvesting, be sure to remove all planting material from the greenhouse and treat the space with a sulfur bomb.
Video on how to get rid of whiteflies in a greenhouse
We usually grow peppers and eggplants in greenhouses. We are starting to sow all these plants again in early spring and we take care of them on our windowsills right up to planting them in open ground.
We water them, give them extra light, feed them, warm them, harden them...
And it’s a shame when you can’t keep track, and in just a few days, the insidious pest literally devours individual leaves. A plant that was alive and blooming just a few days ago becomes lifeless and pitiful.
How to protect your plants from this scourge, and if you haven’t saved your seedlings from it, then this video will tell you how to fight the enemy.
We have already covered some of what has been said in the article, but you can learn something new by watching the video material.
Dear friends, I hope that today's article was useful to you. And now you will not save in the face of a pest. You can always give him a reliable rebuff.
The main thing is not to give up and not to be lazy. And then not a single pest will encroach on your crop, which you grow with such love.
And I wish you success in this.
I wish you all excellent harvests and pleasure from working in the garden!
How to treat strawberries against diseases in May? A solution of potassium permanganate helps a lot. And, in addition to this, you can make a solution of 20 g of zinc sulfate and a bucket of water (10 l), then spray the leaves and stems. But in the fall it is already necessary to process strawberries only after picking the berries.
Autumn is the time for the active work of the gardener. But the collection remontant strawberries in the fall it is often overshadowed by the fact that the berries are moldy and damaged. The reason for this is diseases and pests of wild strawberries.
Strawberry care, diseases and pests, how to do prevention without chemicals? When all the berries are harvested, the plantings need pruning, covering for the winter and watering. Also, loosening the soil can destroy pests and fungal spores in the soil. Treatment of strawberries in the fall against pests and diseases includes spraying with preparations, cutting off old and diseased leaves, manual collection of snails and tears, and tearing out bushes when verticillium wilt is detected.
Processing times in the fall
Strawberries are protected from pests and diseases in the fall after all the berries are picked. But the processing time varies depending on the variety. Regular varieties, which bear fruit in the summer, are sprayed in September, and remontant ones - almost before the onset of winter. And in the winter, to prevent the bushes from freezing, they are covered with spruce branches made from pine needles or lutrasil.
What are the pests and diseases of strawberries and their treatment? The main diseases and pests of wild strawberries are:
- Powdery mildew.
- Late blight.
- Cladosporiosis.
- Gray rot.
- Ramulariasis.
- Brown spotting.
- Verticillium wilt.
- Leaf chlorosis.
Strawberries can be attacked by:
- nematode;
- whiteflies;
- strawberry and spider mites;
- strawberry leaf beetle;
- strawberry-raspberry weevil.
We will look at strawberries, diseases and pests and their photos in more detail further.
Strawberry diseases and medications
Powdery mildew
With it, sick strawberries become faded and the bushes dry out. A powdery coating appears, it looks like a thin cobweb. Specks are visible on the web. These are fungal spores. The leaves become brownish, as if rusty. The foliage is deformed, the leaves curl up and then dry out. The berries turn whitish, emit a musty smell, and then they turn brown and dry out.
From powdery mildew Sulfarid helps a lot. Pour 2 tbsp. spoons in a bucket clean water(10 l). Stir for 5 minutes, pour into a spray bottle and spray the strawberries.
You can also use a 1% solution of colloidal sulfur. Pour 100 g of sulfur into a bucket of warm clean water (10 l) and treat the plantings.
Prepare the solution by pouring 1 ampoule of Topaz into a bucket of warm (+30 ⁰C) water (10 l). After spraying, the product helps against illness for 14 days. Spray, choosing a day without wind and rain.
Pour 3 liters of clean water into a bucket, grate 200 g of laundry soap and pour into the bucket, add another 5 g of copper sulfate, stir gently, fill the bucket to the top with water. Stir the resulting solution again for 5 minutes. Spray strawberries with it.
Late blight
Late blight often occurs during heavy rains and high air temperatures. The disease is caused by fungi transmitted by zoospores. Late blight can be detected by grayish-brown spots on the leaves; they are covered with a coating similar to a cobweb. The berries become distorted, they become tasteless, brown spots appear, and then the berries dry out.
Important! After picking the berries, the bushes are sprayed with solutions of Topaz, Euparen or Switch.
Gray rot
The berries are covered with a grayish fluff, they rot, and gray clouds of spores fly around them.
Bushes are treated with “Fitosporin” or “Fito-plus” for gray rot. A 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture also helps (pour 1 teaspoon of Bordeaux mixture into 0.5 liters of water).
Cladosporiosis and ramulariasis
Brown spot (cladosporiosis) appears as brick-red oval or round spots. First, when the disease appears, small scorches appear along the edges of the foliage, then the spots become larger, dark pads are visible on top of them, these are mycelium. The whiskers are also covered in brick spots.
Afterwards the leaves turn completely red and dry out. Dark gray fluffy inclusions are visible on the spots; these are fungal spores. Brown spotting appears due to constant rainfall or excessive watering, too dense plantings, or if the area is overgrown with weeds.
White spot (ramulariasis). This is a viral disease. The disease is recognized by brownish spots up to 1 cm in diameter on stems and foliage; the spots are dotted with white dots.
How to treat strawberries against diseases? In September, water the bushes with Fitosporin or Zircon.
Brown spot
Brown spotting is the most dangerous. These are also brownish spots on the foliage, but have darker edges. When the disease occurs, spots appear on the edges of the leaves and along the main vein.
Copper oxychloride helps well against gray rot, cladosporiosis, ramularia, brown spot. Pour in 1 tbsp. spoon of the substance into a bucket of warm water. Spray the bushes.
Verticillium wilt
The disease is caused by a fungus. With it, the number of berries decreases, the bushes die. Bushes become infected with the disease through the roots. First, the mycelium penetrates the roots, and then spreads. First, the roots dry out, the bushes grow slowly, then you can see that the leaves fall to the soil and they become yellowish-red.
Select disease-resistant strawberry varieties for planting.
Chlorosis
Typically, chlorosis appears due to a lack of certain microelements, but it can also occur due to an infection brought in by pests from diseased bushes.
Due to a lack of iron, iron chlorosis occurs. The leaves turn yellow or whitish, although the veins retain their bright green hue. In this case, it is necessary to feed the bushes with iron.
With magnesium chlorosis, the edges of large leaves at the base of the bush turn yellow, then all the leaves turn yellow. It is necessary to fertilize strawberries with magnesium.
An excess of nitrogen can cause zinc chlorosis. It manifests itself in the appearance of reddish, orangeish or yellowish dots on the leaves.
Nitrogen chlorosis causes yellow streaks on the foliage. Then all the leaves turn yellow.
Pests and drugs against them
Nematode
At the beginning of autumn, carefully inspect your strawberries. If you see tiny worms with virtually no color, up to 1 mm long, then this is a nematode.
True, the nematode is very difficult to see, so its presence is determined by swellings on the stems or veins of the leaves. If the petioles become short and curved, the foliage wrinkles and falls off, and swellings are found on the upper side of the foliage, then it is a nematode.
In these cases, remove the diseased bush and 2 more nearby bushes from the ground and burn them. A crop can be planted in this area in 2–3 years.
Strawberry-raspberry weevil
These are small even-numbered bugs, their bodies are oblong, they are up to 2 mm long, covered with small hairs. Protruding eyes are visible on the head.
Weevils lay larvae in unopened buds. They eat the center of the bud, then crawl into the soil and pupate. If you find punctures on the leaves, this means that the pest is drinking sap from the plant. Treat strawberries with Aktara, Intavir, Fitoverm or Iskra-bio.
Whiteflies
These are small whitish butterflies, up to 1.5 mm long and 0.3 mm wide. They have two pairs of wings, and they have a wax-like coating on them. Butterflies are located at the bottom of the leaves and suck out the juices. There they lay eggs, which hatch into flat, oval-shaped larvae with six legs.
Spray strawberries against whiteflies with Aktara, prepare the working composition in the tank of a backpack sprayer. First, make a concentrated solution by dissolving 4 g of Aktara in 1 liter of warm water (+25 ⁰C) in a separate container. Then take ¼ of this and pour it into the tank, that is, 250 g of concentrated solution. Then pour water into the tank, filling it ¼ full. Close and shake the sprayer, then apply the composition. You can also treat it with Intavir. To do this, place 1 Intavir tablet in 1 liter of water, stir until the tablet dissolves, then pour in another 9 liters of clean water.
Strawberry leaf beetle
These are brown beetles, their bodies are 3–4 mm long. They eat the leaves. They are destroyed by spraying strawberries with Nurell D, Shar Pei, Karate and Zolon.
Strawberry mite
These are transparent, very tiny insects. Females are up to 0.2 mm in length, and males are 0.13 mm. They are almost impossible to see. Young insects are transparent, after which they turn yellow or brown. If strawberries are attacked by mites, the bushes will grow dwarf. If pests are detected, the strawberries are sprayed with a 0.3% solution of Karbofos (pour 30 g of Karbofos into a 10-liter bucket of water).
You can also spray the bushes with potassium permanganate, a 3% solution of copper sulfate (300 g of copper sulfate per 10 liter bucket of water), and a 4% solution of Bordeaux mixture.
Spider mite
It is discovered by cobwebs on the bushes. The ticks themselves are tiny, up to half a millimeter long, and they are whitish. They are still visible as light spots on the top of the leaves.
The culture is treated with colloidal sulfur, Apollo, Neoron, Karbofos, Fosbecid, these substances are poisonous. But you can also use the safe “Fitoferm”, pour 1 ampoule into 1 liter of water.
Aphid
You can treat strawberries with Nitrofen against aphids. You can also spray the bushes with a solution of iodine and water.
Snails and slugs
Snails and slugs are removed from strawberries by hand and destroyed. You can place Metaldehyde granules near the strawberries. How else can you treat strawberries against pests and diseases?
Nitrophen helps not only against scab, gray mold and spotting, but also eliminates aphids and mites. Pour 150 g of the composition into a bucket of warm water (10 l) and spray the crop, as well as the ground near it.
Fighting “without chemicals”
To combat strawberry mites, you can spill the bushes with a hot solution of potassium permanganate. An infusion of onion peels and garlic also helps well. Collect 200 g of peel from the onion, pour it into a 10 liter bucket of warm water, leave for 5 days, then spray the crop. Or finely chop 200 g of garlic, pour it into a 10 liter bucket of clean water, stir, strain and spray the bushes.
A decoction of wormwood has proven effective against weevils. Wither 1 kg of wormwood, pour into a saucepan, pour in 4 liters of clean water, boil for 10 minutes, strain, pour in another 6 liters of clean water and add 50 g of soap for better adhesion to the leaves, spray the plants.
How to treat strawberries against pests and diseases?
Iodine is used for strawberries against pests and diseases. In the fall, you can disinfect the soil to prevent the appearance of fungal diseases. The bushes are also treated to eliminate worms, aphids, and beetle larvae.
Disinfection of the land is carried out after treating the bushes and pruning leaves. Drop 15 drops of iodine into a bucket of water (10 l). This mixture is applied to the soil and bushes. Iodine destroys pests that are going to spend the winter in the ground, and diseased bushes lie down.
If you find pests, then pour 30 drops of iodine and pour 20 g of soap into a bucket of water (10 l). Water the crop with this mixture. True, it's not very effective remedy, much better at destroying diseases and pests of strawberries is an infusion of onion peels, tobacco dust, and an infusion of wormwood.
You can make a folk remedy, heat 3 tbsp. spoons of sunflower oil, pour warm clean water into a bucket, mix with 2 tbsp. spoons of vinegar and 2 tbsp. spoons of ash, add 500 ml liquid soap. Spray strawberries and the ground around them, this will help against scab, spots and gray rot.
You can also use ash for strawberries against pests and diseases. They make a decoction from the ash, it is excellent against aphids. For this 300 g wood ash sift thoroughly, pour into a saucepan, add boiling water, boil for 25 minutes. Next, strain and pour in another 10 liters of clean water. You can add 50 g of soap. Pour the broth over the strawberry bushes.
Conclusion
So that you do not have to treat strawberries against pests and diseases, pull out weeds in the fall, remove tendrils, cut off dry leaves, loosen the soil, and do moisture-recharging irrigation.
Strawberries, pests and diseases, video:
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Many have encountered such a garden pest as the whitefly, the fight against which is... exhausting, there is no other way to put it. These small white midges are dangerous insects for many plants, since they can quite quickly destroy the entire crop, acting, so to speak, on several fronts. Well, the time has come to think about how to get rid of these pests and choose safe means for protection against whiteflies.
Whitefly pest: fight, folk remedies, how to get rid of small white midges
Whiteflies or Aleyrodidae are a family of very small homoptera insects with a waxy coating on their wings. The source of their life is plant sap, which they absorb in quantities much greater than their nutritional needs. This is precisely the main reason for the death of crops.
Also, as a result of such excessive eating, the whitefly secretes the so-called “dew”, which, settling on the leaves, contributes to the formation of sooty fungus. And, here it, in turn, interferes with their normal air exchange and photosynthesis, as a result of which the plants begin to become covered with a sticky crust, turn black, and then die.
But that's not all. Whiteflies are also carriers of a variety of diseases that can simply infect a healthy crop. In general, this little white midge causes global harm, combining a large number of threats to diseases and plant death, acting both in open ground gardens, in greenhouses, and even at home. In order to successfully fight whiteflies, it is necessary to use more than one method of protection, destruction and prevention. And the most important thing is to act in a timely manner; if the process is delayed, it is very difficult to get rid of this pest.
Signs of whitefly damage to a plant
It is quite simple to identify a whitefly - it is small, maximum 1.5-5 mm in size, white, most often with a yellowish tint, similar to a moth. When you touch the affected plant, the midges fly away (as do psyllids). But you also need to pay attention to the larvae that it lays - they are much, much more difficult to detect - they are oval in shape, green-transparent in color, and their size does not exceed 0.2-3 mm (depending on the species).
The leaves of a plant that are infected have spots on their surface white plaque. The whitefly itself hides on the back, invisible side of the leaf, and if you turn it over, the midges will immediately fly away. You can also see yellowed leaves that soon fall off - this is also the work of the whitefly.
The fight against whiteflies is also complicated by the fact that they reproduce very quickly. If measures are not taken in a timely manner, it can destroy enough large areas crops During her entire life, which is a month, she can lay about 130 eggs. And after 5-7 days, the eggs turn into larvae, then, after 2 weeks, into nymphs, and then into adults.
Whitefly larvae during their development are very resilient: they are not afraid of pesticides and other similar drugs. Therefore, it is practically useless to fight them during this period. In open ground, female pests lay eggs only in the spring, but with heated greenhouses it is more difficult - there is a comfortable climate for this process almost all year round. Therefore, it is in the greenhouse for whiteflies ideal conditions for reproduction, there it can grow up to 15 generations in a year. Can you imagine? Just creepy...
The pest especially “loves” such a crop as tomatoes - after exposure to the whitefly, not only the leaves of the tomato are affected, but also its fruits, which turn white from the inside. Whiteflies also destroy cucumbers, zucchini, and peppers.
Scientists have identified more than 1,550 species of whiteflies. The following species can be found in the CIS:
- Strawberry (Aleurodes fragariae Walk) - yellow eggs overwinter in the young tissue of the stems of strawberries and many other herbaceous plants. The main damage is caused to strawberries and strawberries.
- Bordered (Trialeurodes abutilonea) - found on vegetables, cotton, melons. Adults have grey colour bodies with dark transverse stripes on the wings.
- Honeysuckle (Aleurodes lonicerae Walk) is a very common species in open ground. In autumn it covers the vine foliage abundantly. There are black speckles on the front wings.
- Cabbage (Aleurodes brassicae) - a lover of all types of cabbage, but easily switches to others vegetable crops.
- Mulberry (Tetraleurodes Mori) - pests citrus and other trees. Nymph larvae have a black body, and on top they are covered with a white waxy fringe. Completely Martian in appearance.
- Iris (Aleyrodes spiraeoides) - settles on irises and gladioli, and also feasts on vegetable crops, cotton and others herbaceous plants. Adults have waxy speckles on the wings, and waxy circles are also observed around the egg laying.
- Crowned (Aleuroplatus coronata) is a lover of oaks and chestnuts. Nymph larvae are black in color with an accumulation of wax in the crown line.
- Ashy (Siphoninus phillyreae) - attacks trees and shrubs (both fruit and ornamental), does not disdain citrus species. Larval nymphs have a tiny tubular fringe with waxy droplets.
- Giant (Aleurodicus dugesii) - adult sizes up to 5 mm, and wax threads up to 20 mm long. Favorite breeding sites are hibiscus, begonias, and vegetables. But some trees and ornamental shrubs are attacked by this type of whitefly.
- Citrus (Dialeurodes citri) - harms citrus and other southern trees, as well as ash, lilac, gardenia, privet, honeysuckle, jasmine and others. On the back of this type of whitefly there is a pattern resembling a “Y”.
- Tobacco (Bemisia argentifolii, B. Tabaci) - can harm a wide variety of plants, but prefers melons and vegetables. But flowers and medicinal herbs she likes it too. In adults (adults), the wings are slightly inclined. Has a wide distribution area. Active reproduction is promoted by hot and wet weather.
- Greenhouse or greenhouse plant (Trialeurodes vaporariorum) is also omnivorous, causing harm to a wide variety of plants (indoor, greenhouse, and open ground). Extremely resistant to natural conditions, multiplies with geometric progression. In adult insects, the bodies are yellow and the wings are whitish.
As you can see, this is harmful insect appears not only on crops growing in open ground and in greenhouses, but also at home, on indoor flowers. Methods of dealing with it differ in all cases, and it is necessary to use those that are suitable for a given case.
How to get rid of whiteflies in open ground
The only positive thing about open ground is that the whitefly completely dies during the winter; it does not tolerate frost, but the ground freezes quite well. But it can start up quite quickly, and multiply even faster, so when a whitefly is detected, the fight must begin immediately.
How does it appear? In our case, everything is simple - the neighbor has a greenhouse. That’s where she spends the winter, and then moves to the garden.
If there are already midges, but they did not have time to lay larvae, then there is a chance to get by with little effort - to carry out preventive measures. To begin with, the plants should be treated several times with a soap solution. Of course, you also need to use tar soap.
And then the treatment must be carried out regularly with different preparations - it is best to use those that contain avermectins (Akarin, Fitoverm, Vertimek). But pyrethroids and organophosphorus preparations are hardly possible to use in the garden: they take a long time to decompose. Yes, and in the greenhouse there are greens and early vegetables, and at home it is even more dangerous.
Crops are also treated with the preparations Bud (works especially well on cucumbers and zucchini), Ovary. These are natural stimulants of fruit formation that increase the stress resistance of plants. Dilute them with water in proportions according to the attached instructions.
Alternate treatments with the use of Barsik flea shampoo or spray. Or any other based on fipronil. They can be found in veterinary pharmacies - they are completely environmentally friendly products. For example, do not spray the spray on the foliage; spray paths and mulch. Dilute the shampoo in water, you can use it on the sheet.
Spraying should be done frequently, if possible every 5 days, carrying out the procedure until the whitefly completely disappears. For a 100 sq.m garden, as a rule, about 10 liters of solution are required per treatment.
But you should remember some other nuances when spraying:
- it should only be carried out on a windless day, without rain;
- drugs need to be changed, since the whitefly quickly develops immunity to any of them;
- when spraying tomatoes, it is better to do it in the evening, otherwise the fruits may get burned;
- You should avoid using too strong chemical solutions, which tend to accumulate in the soil, which will cause significant harm to both it and the crop. After this, it will be quite difficult to restore the soil.
Whitefly in a greenhouse: how to get rid of it using folk remedies
A greenhouse, and especially a heated one, is a place year-round residence whiteflies. It should be noted that the pest can be brought there either with soil or with seedlings. There is nowhere else for her to appear. In the greenhouse, it is important to carry out preventive measures to protect against whiteflies, even if neither it nor its larvae are detected. Prevention consists of taking complex actions:
- disinfection of the greenhouse after autumn harvest harvest;
- freezing the greenhouse premises in winter (several days at a temperature no higher than 12 degrees will be quite enough);
- removal in the fall of weeds that may be carriers of larvae (this is especially true for nettles and nettles);
- purchasing and planting only healthy seedlings.
If the whitefly still appears, then you can fight it in the following ways:
To achieve maximum results, it is necessary to introduce this insect into the greenhouse 2 weeks before planting. About 3 insects are required per 1 sq.m. But it should be taken into account that encarsia will not be able to destroy whiteflies on cucumbers; contact will be prevented by plant hairs. But it will show on tomatoes good result.
As for macrolophus bugs, they are also suitable for controlling the pest if it appears on peppers or tomatoes. For 1 sq.m of greenhouse, 5 bugs are required, the number of releases is 2, with an interval of 14 days.
And the simplest one folk way- plant mint in the greenhouse. The whitefly does not like its smell. But this is a rather aggressive plant, and to curb the spread of mint, fence the plot deeper - either dig a pot or a wide border strip (15 or 20 cm). 2-3 bushes for an average greenhouse are quite enough.
How to fight whiteflies at home
The whitefly is familiar not only to summer residents who garden, but also to amateurs indoor plants. The problem is found mainly on plants and flowers that were recently purchased in the store, from where there is a high probability of bringing whiteflies. Therefore, the first time after purchasing a new flower, you should carefully monitor it and identify the whitefly at the very first stage of its appearance and development. If a pest is detected, then it is necessary to take all measures against the annoying insect that spoils indoor flowers. You can also fight whiteflies at home in different ways:
- Traps. If pests are found on the plants, you can place traps nearby; fly tapes, a piece of cardboard smeared with Vaseline, or you can purchase special devices in the shop.
- Removing larvae. If whitefly larvae are detected, the leaves of the plant must be thoroughly washed with a soapy solution.
- Biological agents. In an apartment, you can also use verticillin against whiteflies, which releases a toxin when it comes into contact with an insect, causing the midge to die.
- Folk remedies struggle. Whiteflies can also be eliminated using infusions prepared according to folk recipes:
- Garlic solution. Quite effective in removing whiteflies from flowers. Take about 150 g of garlic, which are crushed and filled with water in an amount of 1 liter. This solution should infuse for a week, during which time the lid of the jar should be tightly closed. Before spraying, the garlic tincture is diluted with water based on a ratio of 6 g per 1 liter.
- Dandelion infusion. When preparing this infusion, dandelion roots and leaves are used, which are finely crushed and filled with water. This solution should steep for 2 hours, after which it must be filtered and used immediately, that is, sprinkled on all house plants. To prevent the dandelion infusion from “dripping” from the leaves, you can add laundry soap to it, which will help it stick to the leaves.
In any case, when starting the fight against whitefly, you should use different methods, combine them, and be sure to carry out preventive measures. Also, when choosing means of exterminating a pest, you should take into account its life cycle, development phase, this is what will help you effectively get rid of the whitefly in the shortest possible time, and thereby save the crop and/or your favorite indoor plant.