DIY magnetic board at home. DIY school magnetic board. Small boards made of cardboard

Don't buy until you read this!

Most of us, when we saw a chalk board on the wall or a wall painted with magnetic paint in the interior, wondered: “Maybe I should do this too!” Well, here's the lowdown on what works, what doesn't, and how to get the effect you really want.

A chalk board on the wall can easily create the look of a bulletin board or faux display in almost any room. True, for this you do not need to use special chalk paint, which is available in a limited palette of colors and is quite expensive.

Here's the secret formula for creating a chalkboard: in each jar with regular paint(any color), add 2 tablespoons of grout to ceramic tiles and stir thoroughly to break up any lumps. Apply paint using a roller, sponge or brush, using several coats for even coverage. After it dries, it is necessary to remove sand crumbs from the surface sandpaper No. 150 and wipe off the dust. Now yours chalk board ready - apply the inscription with a piece of chalk, then wipe off the chalk with a barely damp sponge.

Magnetic paint can turn a wall into comfortable spot for advertisements, drawings, photographs or an area that requires constant changing of exposure. In a word, you can magnetize everything that you want to display onto a magnetic board using magnets without glue or buttons, and, if necessary, quickly move or completely replace everything. True, magnetic paint will not replace a magnetic board, because... the adhesion of magnets to magnetic paint is weaker. A couple of years ago, one of my friends wanted to create a magnetic wall in the interior for his daughter, where she could display her drawings and hang important reminders. After 3 coats of magnetic paint were applied to the wall, the area being painted was not large enough to hold most of the magnets. Some of the magnets were so weakly magnetic to the wall that the magnets couldn’t even hold a sheet of paper!

Everyone has seen tiny super strong neodymium magnets! They are highly magnetic, but their use is somewhat dangerous for children, because... These magnets are easy to swallow. Watch the episode of Grays' Anatomy about a child who swallowed several magnets, they began to magnetize to each other, thereby tearing the walls of the abdominal organs. Such cases also occur in real life. Despite this, my friend decided to use these very light and strong magnets for attaching sheets of paper to the wall, with the creativity of his daughter.

Here's how they used magnets to arrange the words in the shape of a Christmas tree last year:

So, forget about magnetic paint. If you want a magnetic space that actually works, go to the store and buy a large sheet of galvanized steel (make sure the sheet is magnetic before purchasing). You can even use a metal baseboard or strip of steel. After this, you can paint it any color you like - the paint will not affect the magnetism. Attach the fasteners and mount the steel to the wall.

Now you know all the pros and cons, the whole truth about the chalkboard and magnetic paint. If you have done something similar in your room based on this article, please write to us about it. Best works We will celebrate with magnetic prizes;)

An irreplaceable thing in the house is a magnetic board! It contains memories of the life of a single family. How to make it yourself? We will tell you how to make this necessary thing yourself in just a few hours.

Materials and tools

Wooden frame;

Board or piece of hardboard;

Magnetic soil;

Finishing varnish;

Shells;

Sanding sponge;

White acrylic paint;

Decorative cord;

Hot glue gun;

Magnets;

How to make a magnetic board with your own hands: step-by-step master class

1. Cover the surface of the hardboard or thin board with acrylic primer. We wait until the layer dries properly.

2. Apply primer with a magnetic effect on top of regular primer. In total, you need to apply at least 5-6 layers of this primer with intermediate drying of each. If you apply fewer layers, the magnets will not stick to the surface.

3. Let's start decorating the frame. Sand it with a sponge and remove dust with a damp cloth. Paint the frame white acrylic paint. For this, it is best to use a flat synthetic or bristle brush.

4. We decorate the frame with a decorative cord, but first tie a beautiful sea knot at one end. Fold the cord into a loop. The short end should be under the long one. We make the same loop, but in the opposite direction. In the process we intertwine the loops with each other.

5. Attach the sea knot to the frame using hot glue gun. We also glue the cord, adjusting and fixing its tension as we work.

6. Also you without special labor You can make your own original magnets. To do this, simply glue small magnets inside the seashells.

You can make such a board of any shape and size, as well as any color. Many people use special paint for school boards Tikkurila - there is black, and green, and other colors.

The shape of the board can be made in the shape of any animal - an elephant, for example, or in the shape of a racing car. Interesting idea- a magnetic board in the shape of a pillar for posting announcements and posters. The main thing here is that the color and shape fit the overall design of your apartment.

I would also like to note that there is now a special magnetic primer and magnetic paint on sale. Use them to make your work easier.

Video materials on the topic of the article

Magnetic board in a couple of hours:

Training video - homemade marker board:

Another interesting master class about this theme:

You might also like this homemade magnetic stirrer:

Today I would like to talk about how, in a few hours, with only 300 rubles in your pocket, and a bag of enthusiasm behind your back, you can make yourself one useful thing like a marker board.

What we need:

Glass from an old window
Two bottles of white spray paint- 110 rubles/piece
Coarse sandpaper
Fine grit sandpaper
Bucket of water + detergent
Acetone or solvent - 60 rubles/can
Rags
Iron corners for furniture - 10 rubles per piece
Wooden blocks
Screws (large ones with dowels for mounting on the wall, and small ones will become clear why later) - 2 rubles = piece
2-4 hours time

(Not everything is here, but the main set is shown).

Step one: Looking for glass

The first problem you may encounter is finding the right glass. I was lucky, I found a suitable one on the fifth floor of my house. I can advise you to look at a landfill or some construction site, there is a lot of this stuff there. You can also order it sliced required sizes glass in a glass workshop, but this will increase the final cost of the board by about seven hundred rubles.

Step two: Prepare the glass for painting

Did you find glass? Great, now it needs to be cleaned. On my ( window glass) in addition to dust and all kinds of dirt, it also turned out to be old Oil paint. Before painting, you should get rid of all this dirty tricks (we do it efficiently).
We take a rag with detergent and water and clean the glass from dirt and dust. Then we take a piece of rag and acetone and begin to scrub off the old paint. Does it rub off? What a score! Wipe off all the paint and move on to the next step.
I was not so lucky, and the paint was not rubbed off with either acetone or solvent, well, we take sandpaper with fine grain and a rag soaked in solvent in our hands, now slowly, without putting too much pressure, we begin to carefully go over the paint with sandpaper, periodically wiping the area over which you are currently working with as a solvent.
Of course, this will leave small scratches, but after painting this will not be visible.
Somewhere in the middle of a rather long process, I realized that the sandpaper should also be moistened in a solvent, this helps a little.

Also, in the field of this, it is worth walking over with a sandpaper with large grain end sides glass in order to round them and avoid cuts during installation and use.

Step three: wash the glass

After there is no paint left on the glass, it is worth rinsing it thoroughly again in order to get rid of the remnants of acetone and various small nonsense that stuck on while getting rid of the paint.
This is necessary so that the paint lays down in an even layer and there are no hairs or dust particles left under it.

Step Four: Painting

Well, everything is quite simple, although it requires certain skills.
Take a respirator (preferably), rubber gloves, a can of paint and go! Spray the paint at a distance of about 10-15 centimeters, do not worry that the paint does not go on smoothly, poorly painted areas and stains remain (we are not robots), we will paint in four layers!
Attention!: The main thing is to avoid smudges; it is better to underpaint one of the layers than to get smudges, especially in the first two layers.
Aerosol paint dries quite quickly, about 7-10 minutes per layer.
When applying the final layer, you can slightly neglect the smudges, if there are clearly unpainted areas, and paint them better (you can apply not four, but five, six or even seven layers to these places).

(First layer)

(Third layer)

Step Five: Check

Did you paint it? Everything seems fine, let's make sure.
We turn the glass over with the unpainted side facing us and inspect it for poorly painted areas.

In case anyone hasn't realized yet, the unpainted side of our future board is the front one! Yes, yes, that's it. The marker glides on glass much better and can be wiped off several times better. And we painted the glass so that the marker was clearly visible on a white background, and not on transparent glass.

Step six: Prepare the fasteners

There are a lot of options for attaching glass to the wall. You can use special fasteners that are sold in stores, you can drill holes in the glass and screw it to the wall. Or you can use ordinary furniture corners with small wooden blocks. I’ll tell you about the last option.

We take a piece of wood and cut several blocks out of it, so that when you screw the block to the corner, there will be a gap of about half a centimeter between the corner and the block.
It is worth putting some kind of rubber gasket in this gap in order to protect the glass from direct contact with hard parts.
Unfortunately, I didn’t film the process of making the fasteners, but when you see the finished structure, you’ll understand everything.

We paint it to match the board, and go to the wall on which we are going to hang our board.

(Side view with gasket)

(View from above)

Step Seven: Installation

If you managed to do everything that I described above and not break the glass, break your arm, or screw yourself to the floor, then I think that you will be able to drill several holes in the wall and screw the corners to them without my help. I’ll only tell you about the pitfalls that await you.

The first step is to attach the lower corners, so that later you can measure where to screw the upper ones. I did it this way: I screwed the two lower fasteners, placed the glass on them, and placed the upper fasteners, marking their location with a pencil. Then it's a matter of small things.

Secondly, it’s worth noting that inserting a fairly large and fragile glass into such a structure from the side is quite problematic, so it’s worth unscrewing the top fasteners wooden blocks, insert the glass, and then return the bars back.

Thirdly, I would like to note that the glass recedes from the wall by about half a centimeter, which, if large enough, makes the structure extra fragile. I decided this problem by gluing about ten half-centimeter rubber gaskets to the back side of the glass. They prevent the glass from bending in the center when we intensively wash our soaps off it.

Step Eight: Rejoice

Are you laughing? Nothing funny, for the first 20 minutes I wrote various nonsense on this board or simply didn’t take my eyes off it, the quality of workmanship, accuracy, the fact that it looks almost the same as its analogues for several thousand and the fact that you made it with your own hands delivers paradisaic delight.

As practice has shown, such a board can not only help you develop a project or think of a brilliant plan to take over the world, it is also a great thing for a party:

Game 1: We blindfold one of the participants, put him in front of the board, hand him a marker, whisper so that no one can hear what needs to be drawn and in front, the rest guess.

Game 2: We draw on the board, for example: a donkey, a mora pig and a man, a blindfolded player needs to draw a tail for a donkey, a heel (nose) for a pig, a man, I won’t specify what we drew :), but you can draw a nose.

Finally

Within a month of use, the board showed itself to be excellent and fully repaid the time spent on its creation. I use it in almost every project I develop.

As for the changes, I would make the fasteners a little more elegant, they stick out a lot.

I express my deep gratitude to the users taliban, Akson87, pel, as well as to all those who wished to remain anonymous, for increasing karma and the opportunity to write this post.

I would be very glad if a photo of such a board made by someone from the community appears in the comments.

I will be glad to see suggestions for improving the board, as well as the readability of the post, in private messages or comments.

Good day, dear reader.

Today I would like to talk about how, in a few hours, with only 300 rubles in your pocket and a bag of enthusiasm behind your back, you can make yourself such a useful thing as a marker board.

The downloaded image is approximately three megabytes.

So let's get started

What we need:

  • Glass from an old window
  • Two cans of white spray paint - 110 rubles per piece
  • Coarse sandpaper
  • Fine grit sandpaper
  • Bucket of water + detergent
  • Acetone or solvent - 60 rubles/can
  • Rags
  • Iron corners for furniture - 10 rubles per piece
  • Wooden blocks
  • Screws (large ones with dowels for mounting on the wall, and small ones will become clear why later) - 2 rubles = piece
  • 2-4 hours time


(Not everything is here, but the main set is shown).

Step one: Looking for glass

The first problem you may encounter is finding the right glass. I was lucky, I found a suitable one on the fifth floor of my house. I can advise you to look at a landfill or some construction site, there is a lot of this stuff there. You can also order glass cut to the required dimensions from a glass workshop, but this will increase the final cost of the board by about seven hundred rubles.

Step two: Prepare the glass for painting

Did you find glass? Great, now it needs to be cleaned. On my (window glass), in addition to dust and all kinds of dirt, there was also old oil paint. Before painting, you should get rid of all this dirty tricks (we do it efficiently).
We take a rag with detergent and water and clean the glass from dirt and dust. Then we take a piece of rag and acetone and begin to scrub off the old paint. Does it rub off? What a score! Wipe off all the paint and move on to the next step.
I was not so lucky, and the paint was not rubbed off with either acetone or solvent, well, we take sandpaper with fine grain and a rag soaked in solvent in our hands, now slowly, without putting too much pressure, we begin to carefully go over the paint with sandpaper, periodically wiping the area over which you are currently working with as a solvent.
Of course, this will leave small scratches, but after painting this will not be visible.
Somewhere in the middle of a rather long process, I realized that the sandpaper should also be moistened in a solvent, this helps a little.

Also, in order to do this, it is worth using a large-grain sandpaper to go over the end sides of the glass in order to round them off and avoid cuts during installation and use.

Step three: wash the glass

After there is no paint left on the glass, it is worth rinsing it thoroughly again in order to get rid of the remnants of acetone and various small nonsense that stuck on while getting rid of the paint.
This is necessary so that the paint lays down in an even layer and there are no hairs or dust particles left under it.

Step Four: Painting

Well, everything is quite simple, although it requires certain skills.
Take a respirator (preferably), rubber gloves, a can of paint and go! Spray the paint at a distance of about 10-15 centimeters, do not worry that the paint does not go on smoothly, poorly painted areas and stains remain (we are not robots), we will paint in four layers!
Attention!: The main thing is to avoid smudges; it is better to underpaint one of the layers than to get smudges, especially in the first two layers.
Aerosol paint dries quite quickly, about 7-10 minutes per layer.
When applying the final layer, you can slightly neglect the smudges, if there are clearly unpainted areas, and paint them better (you can apply not four, but five, six or even seven layers to these places).


(First layer)


(Third layer)

Step Five: Check

Did you paint it? Everything seems fine, let's make sure.
We turn the glass over with the unpainted side facing us and inspect it for poorly painted areas.

In case anyone hasn't realized yet, the unpainted side of our future board is the front one! Yes, yes, that's it. The marker glides on glass much better and can be wiped off several times better. And we painted the glass so that the marker was clearly visible on a white background, and not on transparent glass.

Step six: Prepare the fasteners

There are a lot of options for attaching glass to the wall. You can use special fasteners that are sold in stores, you can drill holes in the glass and screw it to the wall. Or you can use ordinary furniture corners with small wooden blocks. I’ll tell you about the last option.

We take a piece of wood and cut several blocks out of it, so that when you screw the block to the corner, there will be a gap of about half a centimeter between the corner and the block.
It is worth putting some kind of rubber gasket in this gap in order to protect the glass from direct contact with hard parts.
Unfortunately, I didn’t film the process of making the fasteners, but when you see the finished structure, you’ll understand everything.

We paint it to match the board, and go to the wall on which we are going to hang our board.


(Side view with gasket)


(View from above)

Step Seven: Installation

If you managed to do everything that I described above and not break the glass, break your arm, or screw yourself to the floor, then I think that you will be able to drill several holes in the wall and screw the corners to them without my help. I’ll only tell you about the pitfalls that await you.

The first step is to attach the lower corners, so that later you can measure where to screw the upper ones. I did it this way: I screwed the two lower fasteners, placed the glass on them, and placed the upper fasteners, marking their location with a pencil. Then it's a matter of small things.

Secondly, it’s worth noting that inserting a fairly large and fragile glass into such a structure from the side is quite problematic, so you should unscrew the wooden blocks at the top fasteners, insert the glass, and then return the bars back.

Thirdly, I would like to note that the glass recedes from the wall by about half a centimeter, which, if large enough, makes the structure extra fragile. I solved this problem by gluing about ten half-centimeter rubber gaskets to the back side of the glass. They prevent the glass from bending in the center when we intensively wash our soaps off it.

Step Eight: Rejoice

Are you laughing? Nothing funny, for the first 20 minutes I wrote various nonsense on this board or simply didn’t take my eyes off it, the quality of workmanship, accuracy, the fact that it looks almost the same as its analogues for several thousand and the fact that you made it with your own hands delivers paradisaic delight.

By the way

As practice has shown, such a board can not only help you develop a project or think of a brilliant plan to take over the world, it is also a great thing for a party:

Game 1: We blindfold one of the participants, put him in front of the board, hand him a marker, whisper so that no one can hear what needs to be drawn and in front, the rest guess.

Game 2: We draw on the board, for example: a donkey, a mora pig and a man, a blindfolded player needs to draw a tail for a donkey, a heel (nose) for a pig, a man, I won’t specify what we drew :), but you can draw a nose.

Finally

Within a month of use, the board showed itself to be excellent and fully repaid the time spent on its creation. I use it in almost every project I develop.

As for the changes, I would make the fasteners a little more elegant, they stick out a lot.

I express my deep gratitude to the users taliban, Akson87, pel, as well as to all those who wished to remain anonymous, for increasing karma and the opportunity to write this post.

I would be very glad if a photo of such a board made by someone from the community appears in the comments.

I will be glad to see suggestions for improving the board, as well as the readability of the post, in private messages or comments.

Useful from the comments

1. The user gunnzolder suggested using ORACAL type film to add strength and get rid of fragments (in case of an accident), so that the fragments do not scatter around the room, but remain on the film.

Thanks to them for the additions, I’m waiting for new proposals to improve the design.

Very convenient to use. They are ideal for children at the stage of learning to read, helping to “set” their hand, learn to write and draw. In practice, they are used to create flowcharts, conduct lectures and teach. However, the cost of such boards is quite high and starts from 1,500 rubles. Therefore, many people have a question: is it possible to make a magnetic marker board with your own hands?

Materials and tools

You will need:

  1. for measurements.
  2. Nails, hooks for attaching boards.
  3. Screwdriver and hammer.
  4. Melamine or other suitable look plastic.

While working, be extremely careful not to cut yourself when handling the sheets.

Option one. Transparent board

First you need to decide on the dimensions of the future product. Depending on the purpose, the sizes can be any. A magnetic marker board 90x120 centimeters is suitable for teaching schoolchildren and drawing small diagrams. For young children, you can make a smaller board. For placement in a large office and for holding lectures, the dimensions of the product should be from 150 cm on the narrow side.

The hardware store sells melamine in various sizes. This material has a durable plastic coating on one side, which will ensure the durability of the product. It is better to choose sheets with a smooth surface, as they are easier to wipe and the inscriptions will be easier to read.

If you want to make a clear marker board, you can purchase plexiglass or Lexan. Last option thinner and more resistant to damage, weighs less, does not crumble and has a beautiful glossy finish.

If you decide to make a magnetic marker board with your own hands, please note that the material is very thin - only 6 mm thick. You can hang the board on the wall, but if you plan to move it, you will need to glue a backing sheet. To use magnets, it is best to choose a sheet of steel and add plywood or cork board.

Please note that such a board should be placed on flat wall. If the surface is not level enough, the board will not be stable and writing on it will not be very convenient. For convenience, you can also attach it to finished product shelf for markers and rags.

Now stores sell glider boards divided by day of the week. Automotive self-adhesive strips 3-6 mm wide are ideal for marking. If you make a magnetic marker board with your own hands, you can decorate it according to at will and depending on the purpose of use.

Option two. White magnetic marker board

To make a whiteboard, you can take any smooth material and cover it with several layers of paint and varnish. But it will fit perfectly steel sheet. It is cheaper, heavier and magnets attach well to it.

Cover the sheet with white paint in several layers. White is used, since all the colors of the markers will be clearly visible on such a surface. Each layer must dry well.

After all layers of paint have dried, coat the sheet with a thin layer of clear gloss varnish. One of the best coatings again there will be melamine, which is not only solid, but also liquid.

Now you can frame the product, make shelves and hang the board. The shelf is made from a thin strip of metal and is attached to the bottom edge of the product. Framing will hide the uneven edges of the board.

  1. Markers should be washed using a dry sponge or soft cloth. It is better to use special markers designed for marker boards. After erasing the inscriptions, light streaks may remain on the surface. They are removed with alcohol. To avoid streaking, you can coat the melamine surface with wax, which is used for polishing cars.
  2. It is better to cut the material with a saw for laminated materials or plywood.
  3. To make sawing easier, you can draw a line using a ruler and a knife. Then the material will not break during the cutting process. To prevent crumbling and grinding, you can apply adhesive tape to the cut line.

By making your own magnetic marker board, you can save a lot of money. This product will fully meet your wishes and requirements.