Chipboard is a chipboard, a common material. Currently, it is widely used in the production of furniture, office and cabinet furniture, wardrobes, partitions, countertops, etc.
The main advantages of this material: affordability, ease of use, good thermal insulation properties, high strength, homogeneity of the material (no voids, cracks) Thanks to special additives, it becomes resistant to moisture, open fire, and fungi.
Chipboard can be sawed, planed, milled, nails or screws driven into it, drilled, cut. It can be used to make various parts of almost any shape. Possible use different ways: laminate, paint, veneer, plastic or paper. The material is mainly used indoors. It is not suitable for outdoor work; it is, after all, wood. Chipboard covers walls, decorates residential and industrial premises. But with all the advantages, there is one problem - chips that occur when cutting. Here we will discover how to avoid this problem and share some tips.
Preparing for work
Conditions
It must be remembered that for high-quality work, several conditions must be met.
- Install the stove correctly. The surface must be flat, stable, without drops. The chipboard board must be fixed so that it does not “move out” during operation.
- The tool must be in good working order.
- It is necessary to saw the chipboard board only with a saw with fine teeth (this is important for coated boards, since a saw with fine teeth does not crumble the material).
- It is best to apply masking tape to the cut line.
- You must strictly follow safety precautions.
Compliance with all the above conditions will guarantee good results from the work done.
Expert advice
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Wooden screw plugs crumble and fall out of the wall. Take your time to cut new plug. Fill the hole in the wall tightly with nylon from an old stocking. Using a nail of a suitable diameter heated red hot, melt a hole for the screw. The fused nylon will turn into a strong cork.
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"So that the nail goes in the right direction and does not bend when driven into deep hole or groove, you should place it inside the tube, securing it with crumpled paper or plasticine. "
Before drilling a hole in concrete wall, secure a piece of paper just below. Dust and concrete fragments will not fly around the room.
"To cut a pipe exactly at a right angle, we recommend doing this. Take an even strip of paper and screw it onto the pipe along the sawing line. The plane passing through the edge of the paper will be strictly perpendicular to the axis of the pipe."
"Roll over logs or wooden beams A simple device will help - a piece of motorcycle or bicycle chain, supplemented with a hook on one side and secured to a crowbar on the other side. "
"In order for one person to be able to work with a two-handed saw, we recommend using a simple technique: move the saw handle from the top to the bottom position."
You can cut a piece of slate of the required size with a saw, but it is better and easier to punch holes along the line of the intended cut with a nail at a frequency of 2-3 cm, and then break off the slate on the support.
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When making shaped window casings, it is most convenient to cut shaped holes with a hacksaw with a sharpened blade.
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"A very durable, non-shrinking and fairly waterproof putty is made from bustylate mixed with any powder - chalk, gypsum, cement!, sawdust, etc."
"If you need to screw a screw into the end of a particle board, drill a hole slightly smaller than the diameter of the screw, fill the hole with Moment glue (not epoxy!), screw the screw in a day later. The board does not delaminate. However, the resulting connection can only be placed under load through day. "
"It is more convenient to secure portraits, photographs, paintings in wooden frames with glass not with nails, but with the help of pushpins bent at right angles. The pins are gently pressed with a screwdriver. Compared with nails, the danger of splitting thin frames is reduced to a minimum."
"It is not so easy to screw a screw into hard wood. If you poke a hole for the screw with an awl, and rub the screw itself generously with soap, then after such an operation the work will go like clockwork."
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"Slight rotting on wood can be eliminated as follows: the affected wood is removed from the healthy layer, and then soaked in a 10% formaldehyde solution. After drying, the area is puttied and painted over."
So, I collected a sufficient amount of material and decided to write another analytical note. This time the topic is sawing laminated chipboard without chipping.
There is a fairly fair opinion that it is possible to cut laminated chipboard cleanly only on professional equipment(that is, a format-cutting machine).
The whole highlight of this machine is that it has two saw blades located strictly on the same axis. The first one cuts the chipboard, the second one cuts it right through.
The cost of this unit is about 700,000 - 1,000,000 rubles (of course, there are more expensive ones))). NOT VERY ACCEPTABLE FOR AN Amateur.
This is a good way to trim incorrectly marked parts, but you can’t cut the entire cabinet this way. Chips, of course, are present, but in an amount quite comparable to the formatter (it also, secretly, leaves a small number of small chips). A lot of hassle with markings. Only straight cuts can be made.
Method 5 - Fraser
Provides the cleanest possible edge to the workpiece, the quality is no different from the formatter, often even better.
With it, we first saw the workpiece with a jigsaw, retreating from marking line 2-3 mm, and then we align the line according to the template (I usually use a second piece of laminated chipboard, sawn on a format saw, of a suitable size). must be copying, that is, with a bearing.
Very clean cut. The possibility of making curved cuts, that is, making many, including several completely identical ones. Disadvantages - a lot of hassle: the need for precise marking, preliminary filing of workpieces, setting a template or tire for the router, that is, it is not very suitable for mass use.
As practice shows, it is very difficult to make high-quality cuts of chipboard with a durable melamine coating. Rough Tools often leave jagged edges on the cuts. You will no longer be able to assemble a neat door or shelf with such defects. Cutting laminated chipboard at home usually occurs when repair work or furniture making.
How to cut chipboard without nicks and chips?
Special equipment
Of course, the most the best option- use a special formatting machine. With its help you can get any cut. But you can’t buy such an instrument for private needs, but manufacturing plant providing sawing services, such a procedure will cost good money. More cheap way- Circular Saw. There are even special saws for chipboard. But they will also require the use of special tools. However, many should have in their arsenal milling machine, which will correct the rough cut with a milling cutter. If you have experience working on such a machine, it will not be difficult to obtain a satisfactory appearance cut.
Handy tools
You can cut chipboard with a jigsaw, but this will be a rough cut. The edges may turn out not straight, but sinusoidal, and in the worst case, the edge will not be perpendicular to the front surface.
When cutting, you must be prepared for the fact that the jigsaw file will begin to “walk” due to the bend. You need to cut with a margin of 4 mm, and then level the edge.
Cutting laminated chipboard at home using a jigsaw reduces the formation of chips. When cutting, you need to increase the speed and reduce the feed, setting the pumping to 0. Only sharp saw blades designed for special cutting of chipboard should be used. Only by following these rules can you achieve good result. After cutting, the end that will be visible can be sanded down. Additionally, before cutting, as already mentioned, you need to cut a line along which the cut will take place. But we do not move the file along this line, but near it - then the chips will not touch the limits you need. In the end, all that remains is to finish the edges with sandpaper.
Indents from the contour can be up to 4 mm. Then these few millimeters are removed with a cylindrical cutter using a hand-held electric router with a bearing. The bearing is guided by long level, attached to the back of the sheet.
In addition, if the chips are in a non-working, low-visibility area, they can be disguised with a marker or felt-tip pen matched to their color.
The most undesirable way to cut chipboard- with a file (oddly enough, in old textbooks a lot of material is devoted to this method). You can use a plane, but preferably an electric one with carbide knives. But here we must take into account that dust from under the plane will scatter throughout the room.
And the most comfortable way- by using hand router along the guide. The end should be smooth and at 90 degrees, there will be no chips, and when the vacuum cleaner is turned on, there will be almost no dust.
Craftsmen recommend using a hacksaw for such cutting. If you have a saw with a fine tooth, then the operating procedure is as follows:
1) Draw a cutting line with a knife. Sharpen your saw before starting work. The knife should be applied with slight pressure so that the laminated top layer is cut.
2) Glue a tape with an adhesive base along the intended cutting line. It will help keep the decorative layer from cracking. You can also use paper tape.
3) The tool should be held at a very sharp angle. In this case, the angle should not be higher than 30 degrees - this will reduce the likelihood of chipping. During the cutting process, you need to apply light pressure on the saw. If the work is performed with a power tool, such as a jigsaw, then there is no need to rush and press on it
4) After finishing cutting, the cut can be cleaned with a file. But in many cases this is not necessary, since the small teeth of the saw prevent the laminate from being deformed. If formed torn edges, then delicate work with a rasp will bring the cut into proper shape. The grinding tool must be guided towards the center from the edge - this minimizes possible damage top layer.
5) The glued strip of veneer will give the final beauty to the cut.
Of course cutting laminated chipboard at home does not imply professional quality and high speed work. For those who are in a hurry, you can offer sawing of chipboard with a grinder. A wood disc is used as a cutting element. A strip is attached to the chipboard with clamps so that the angle grinder can be guided along it for smooth cut. After cutting, possible chips are processed with the same grinder, only with a different attachment - for grinding. But a more gentle option is to use sandpaper.
Any home craftsman sooner or later is faced with the need to cut chipboard. This could be making furniture with your own hands or covering walls. MDF panels or chipboard. As you know, sawing chipboard is not difficult, but making an even cut without chips is not an easy task.
Do it yourself or order it?
A custom cut will be smoother
High-quality sawing of chipboard is difficult to do manually due to big size sheets. Dimensions standard plate 2440x1200, and that's not the limit. However, if you work with chipboard or MDF quite often, it makes sense to get an expensive tool and work for your own pleasure. If you only need to cut a few sheets, you can go two ways:
- Cut the slabs yourself using available hand tools;
- Order cutting chipboard in a specialized workshop.
What to choose is up to you, and we will consider each of these options.
Cutting panels at home
It is quite possible to saw a sheet of chipboard or laminated chipboard by hand. True, in this case you are unlikely to be able to avoid the appearance of chips and burrs, but you can try to reduce their number and size.
There are several rules that should be followed when cutting chipboard panels:
- Sheets must be cut on a flat, hard surface. For sawing large panels, you can adapt two large tables (their height should be the same!);
- in order to prevent chipping, stick adhesive tape or good masking tape along the cut line, which will hold the edges of the laminated layer;
- for sawing using hand saw choose a blade with a grinding tooth. The saw teeth should be sharpened well. You need to drive the saw with slight pressure, at an acute angle to the surface, constantly monitoring its position;
- To cut chipboards and laminated chipboards using a jigsaw, the cut line should be scratched or even cut through. It's best to take advantage sharp knife to cut through a durable layer of laminate;
- install a file with fine reverse teeth;
- select the maximum speed of the jigsaw, turn off the “pendulum”;
- fasten an even strip along the cut line and move the jigsaw strictly along it;
- The jigsaw should be pressed firmly against the surface being cut.
All these recommendations help to correctly saw and cut chipboard, but chipping, nevertheless, cannot be completely avoided. Therefore, if it is so important to get a perfectly smooth, even cut line, without chips or saw marks, you should contact specialized workshops where they will cut out any shape from a sheet of chipboard for a reasonable fee.
Precision and quality
Accurate cutting is the key to success
Format cutting machines for sawing laminated chipboards and chipboards have a high quality cut, which allows you to reduce subsequent costs for processing the cuts (grinding, removing chips and burrs, and so on). That is why such machines can be used to cut any complexity and configuration, which means almost inexhaustible possibilities in furniture production. Fantasy children's furniture, comfortable tabletops computer desks, figured through carved decorations in the doors kitchen facades– all this is possible using machines.
There are two types of panel cutting machines:
- vertical, which are a strong, rigid, vibration-resistant welded bed (frame), installed vertically with a backward deviation of 50°, with guides located above and below, along which the saw beam moves. It is a bracket for the saw unit, which moves up and down along the beam, and also rotates 90°, which allows you to make both vertical and horizontal cuts. The cutting precision is amazing. For sawing laminated chipboard, as well as hard, corrugated or porous slabs, a special scoring unit is used. The rotation speed of the saw reaches 15 thousand revolutions per minute;
- horizontal, consisting of a table for the stove, a carriage for moving the saw along the saw mechanism and the saw mechanism itself, consisting of one or two cutting units. The cutting units themselves are equipped with a main and scoring saw. The principle of operation is simple: the main saw cuts deeply chipboard board, and the scoring machine accurately and clearly cuts the bottom edge (veneer or laminated surface). The saw unit can also be tilted up to 45°.
The miter saw is a “domesticated” and greatly reduced copy of the horizontal saw. It will not be possible to cut a wide sheet of chipboard or laminated chipboard on it, but it can handle small parts quite well.
We cut other types of panels
Cutting MDF differs from cutting chipboard panels. The high density of the material quickly dulls the saw teeth, so it often has to be sharpened or completely replaced. Unfinished MDF can be cut using a regular machine, but laminated board requires a machine with an additional bottom saw. This is especially important when cutting slabs with a double-sided finish.
Fiberboard can be cut at home using an electric or hand jigsaw. Of course, the file must be sharp, with a fine tooth; the jigsaw must be set to maximum speed. Install the fiberboard horizontally on a support that should not interfere with sawing (between two tables or chairs, for example), secure it with clamps if necessary.
The electric jigsaw should be held with both hands, pressed firmly against the surface, and moved smoothly, strictly along the marking line, without jerking or pressing. The same applies to working with a hand jigsaw.
In cases where it is necessary to cut many sheets of material, it is more convenient to contact a specialized company. This will save you time and effort.
Video on cutting chipboard using a circular saw
It is not always easy to cut chipboard beautifully and without chips. See how to do it correctly:
Today we will tell you what affects the quality of sawing, how to saw off chipboard evenly and cleanly, and also how you can saw with a tire and without a regular guide circular saw.
We will show it using a hand-held circular saw as an example, but this does not affect the sawing techniques in any way, the difference is only in minor details. You can get similar quality cuts with a cheaper tool if you follow our advice.
What affects the quality of chipboard cutting?
In this case, we will be sawing chipboard; this is the most capricious material for sawing, because it has longitudinal and transverse layers, and a rather delicate and thin veneer. But on the other hand, he has a tough adhesive base, which will also interfere with us.
Saw blade. How to choose it?
When cutting chipboard, the saw blade must simultaneously cut cleanly and be durable, because the properties of the glue are very close to glass and dull the tool itself quite quickly. Therefore, in the process of cutting chipboard, you need to choose disks that are good enough to cut with them without loss of quality for a long time.
What is the difficulty of sawing with a circular saw with discs?
If we look at the cut of the workpiece, we will see that it is full of burrs, because “by hand” it is practically impossible to guide the saw straight through the cut.
On the saw blade there is a difference in height between the body of the saw itself and the sawing part - the tooth. Due to this distance, the disc has the ability to direct its position in the cut. Accordingly, as soon as it changes its geometry, the rear teeth begin to hit the chipboard workpiece and leave marks on it.
It is important to place the workpiece face down. Why?
The disk rotates from bottom to top; it cuts the pile of the workpiece upward onto the base. Thus, below, on the front side, we always have a clean surface. Problems begin to form at the top, where the teeth exit the workpiece. This is how explosions, chips, and piles happen.
How to minimize them, or avoid them altogether? There are several simple tricks and we will tell you about them now.
Technique 1. Cutting along the guide
We install a guide (rail) on the workpiece, set the sawing depth and make the cut. As you can see for yourself, even on outside There are no chips or explosions in our chipboard workpiece. The cut itself was smooth with no signs of scoring or side waves. Why such difference?
What is the merit of the guide?
When we saw with a disk, we inevitably move the saw, the so-called “iron movement” is obtained. That is, when we move our hand, we constantly move the saw to the right and left. A guide that has a hard edge allows you to avoid this.
Accordingly, when we guide the saw along the guide, it does not move and the saw blade itself works smoothly, without changing its position. The result is an ideal line parallel to the guide.
What to do if you don’t have a hand-held circular saw and guide?
You need to make the guide yourself. We find a regular profile, you can take the rule, any smooth slats, the main thing is that its geometry is smooth.
We measure the distance from the saw blade to the edge of your chipboard blank. We attach the guide to the workpiece using any clamp and begin cutting.
The main thing in the process is to constantly press the saw against the guide. That is, your hand should always guide the saw towards the homemade tire.
After cutting, you will get an almost perfect cut, the cut line is barely visible. We performed the cut very efficiently, the cut itself is clean, no side marks are visible on it. With the exception of a small pile on the back side of the workpiece.
Where did this lint come from, since we were working with a guide (tire)?
The purchased cutting bar has a special plastic protective tape. This tape prevents the pile from rising and the saw cuts it. In this case, we didn’t have this tape, so we got this lint on the surface.
What to do with the pile in this case?
There are two options:
1. Take regular masking tape. It is glued to the place of the cut, markings are made on it and sawed together with masking tape. The tape holds the ingrown in place and when cutting we get everything clean.
2. Just drive the saw blade more slowly. That is, if you do the same thing with a slower feed, then there will be much fewer chips.
Technique 2. “Reverse cut.”
The first pass is performed in an unusual manner - in reverse. That is, the circular saw rotates as the workpiece is fed. We set the minimum cutting depth, turn on the saw and move backwards rather than forwards.
If you have a regular saw, then simply fix the saw with minimal overhang beyond the base. The point of the first pass is that the blade, moving along the guide, only catches our workpiece. We need a small groove on the chipboard.
Having made the first - trimming cut - you will make sure that there are no chips with such a feed (backwards). The surface is perfect!
Now we will set the saw to full depth and cut the workpiece along this groove with a regular cut - forward feed. We will get two cuts per workpiece. No wave cuts, arson, nothing - perfect quality!
Video - how to saw off material (chipboard, plywood) without chipping