It's better to make a cesspool. Options for simple cesspools for country houses. Simple and proven option

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If in multi-storey buildings property owners do not think about the question of where to dispose of waste water and sewage, then for owners of private households the problem of waste and sewage disposal requires a permanent solution. They have no choice but to do drain hole with your own hands. This option for arranging a treatment plant is the simplest and most affordable during construction. on our own.

Landscaping begins personal plot from the installation of water supply and sewerage systems, since staying in nature cannot be called comfortable if you have to wear drinking water from the well and run to nearby bushes when needed.

There are several options for disposing and processing wastewater and sewage, but the simplest design is a cesspool. It is necessary to have knowledge of how to properly make a drainage pit without the help of specialists, so that in the future you will not have problems with its operation and the environmental situation in the area adjacent to the house.

Types of drainage pits

Despite the simplicity of the design, drainage pits differ in the way they are implemented.

They are:

• sealed;
• filtering;
• two-chamber.

Drain pit sealed. The process of how to make a drainage pit with a completely sealed body has its own characteristics. This option is the safest from an environmental point of view, since all waste coming from home or outdoor toilet, end up in a sealed settling tank and remain there until the arrival of the sewer truck.

When the pit is made airtight, sewage does not contaminate the soil and groundwater. As a result ecological system there will be no threat to anything, as well as sources of drinking water. The advantage of this treatment structure is that it can be used regardless of the hydrogeological conditions in the adjacent area.

But there are also disadvantages. Sewage and sewage accumulated in a sealed container must be periodically pumped out, and calling a sewer truck is not a cheap service. The frequency of pumping depends on the volume of the tank used.

In fact sanitary standards It is prohibited to build a local sewage system of this design: if untreated wastewater gets into the ground, it can cause irreparable harm to the environment in the area. They can even be a source of contamination of drinking water sources, and this is already extremely dangerous for human health.

This option, if currently used, is only for country houses, since the people living in them require a small amount of water. It is recommended to build filter-type waste pits only if the volume of waste during the day is no more than a cubic meter. When Wastewater a small amount, they have time to be processed through natural decomposition.

Often pits of this type are installed during the construction of baths, steam rooms and for houses in which separation of wastewater is provided. In the latter case, it is necessary to lay two sewer branches and build two drainage pits on the site. The first of them, equipped with a filter type, receives waste water from the washing machine, shower cabin, and washbasin. These effluents are considered relatively clean.
Sewage from the toilet and water from the kitchen are directed into the second sealed pit.

Two-chamber drain pit. This solution to the waste disposal problem is considered practical and reasonable.

The operating principle of this treatment plant, shown in the photo, is as follows:

• a drainage pit, consisting of two chambers, is connected at the top by an overflow, the first of which is sealed, and the second is filtering;
• unseparated wastewater initially enters the first of the chambers, which is sealed, and settles there (mechanically separated);
• solid particles sink down to the bottom, and less contaminated water flows into the next chamber;
• from another chamber, water is filtered into the soil;
• The waste collected in the first chamber must be pumped out from time to time. To reduce the amount of waste, special biological preparations are used. The bacterial strains contained in them promote the processing of organic matter, which leads to a reduction in the amount of sewage.

How to make a drain hole correctly

Before making a drainage hole in a private house, you need to design a construction plan. It is necessary to select the type of structure, location of construction and calculate the required volume of the tank.

Of course, the amount of waste is determined individually, but generally accepted standards also apply. For example, for a family that permanently lives in a house and has three members, they build a pit that can hold 6 cubic meters.

When calculating the volume of a container, the following points are taken into account:

• How affordable is the cost of services provided by vacuum cleaners;
• the volume of waste that sewage disposal equipment is capable of pumping out of a pit at one time.

Choosing a location for a drainage pit.

When determining where a sump should be made, a number of factors are taken into account:

• distance to the location of soil water. It should be sufficient to dig a pit two meters deep (this is the minimum value). Read also: " ".;
• the distance from the source of drinking water to the sump must be at least three tens of meters. It is extremely important to maintain the minimum distance from the well to the cesspool, for your own safety;
• you cannot make a cesspool on a slope;
• it is necessary to provide for the possibility of access of special equipment designed to clean the pit from the drain;
• It is prohibited to make a septic tank in the immediate vicinity of a residential building and fence neighboring plot. Minimum distance to a residential building should be 5 meters.

Thus, before making a drainage hole in your house, the location should be chosen very carefully to prevent contamination of the area surrounding the building, especially when the area is built up. In any case, the rules must be followed.

Selection of building materials for arranging a drainage pit.

When creating a sealed cesspool, the following materials are used:

When constructing a filter type drain pit, you can:

• cover it with bricks, leaving 5 centimeter gaps between the rows in a checkerboard pattern;
• install reinforced concrete rings for drainage wells with perforation into it;
• use car tires. They are laid on top of each other, cutting off the lower rim on each tire;
• use used metal or plastic tanks or barrels. The bottom should be cut off and holes should be made in the lower part to improve filtration of wastewater.

Making a drain hole with your own hands

There is a certain procedure for how to make a drain hole with your own hands correctly.

On initial stage prepare a pit and dig trenches for laying supply pipes.

The depth of the pit should be greater than the designed depth of the drainage pit, since space will be required for the drainage pad. It is made from layers of sand and crushed stone, which are carefully compacted.

If you plan to build a sealed pit, then the thickness of the layers should be 10-15 centimeters. Place pillows on top or reinforced concrete slab, or fill concrete screed.

When installing a filter pit, for better wastewater purification, the minimum layer of crushed stone should be 20 centimeters. Thanks to this measure, the bottom will not silt for a longer time.

Then you need to start strengthening the walls of the sump. To do this, make brickwork, or use plastic containers, or install concrete rings.

In the case when a sealed sump is being built, after the walls have been strengthened, waterproofing should be done.

At the same time, connect the supply pipeline to the tank receiving the wastewater. It is necessary that the connection of the pipes with the tank is both sealed and not rigid: then it will not collapse when the soil moves. Therefore, rubber couplings should be used for connection.

Approximately 40 centimeters from the surface of the earth, a cover for the sump is made. Usually a ready-made reinforced concrete slab with a hole for a hatch is used. If desired, it is quite possible to make such a slab yourself, having previously made the formwork. The ceiling can also be constructed from boards, but it will not be durable.

In order to control the degree of filling of the tank and to pump out sewage, a hatch must be installed in the ceiling. In addition, the cover should be mounted ventilation pipe for the removal of gases (including methane) that are formed during the decomposition of the solid contents of wastewater. You can pour soil on top of the ceiling, but so that precipitation cannot enter the pit.

When it is planned to create a local sewerage facility, for those home craftsmen who are new to this type of work, it will not be superfluous to know how to make a drainage pit for servicing a country household. Even if hired workers do the arrangement, it will be easier for the owner to monitor the quality of the services.

If there is no centralized sewage system near the house, then as a solution to the problem, you can consider installing a cesspool. In any house where there is a hot and cold water supply, the problem of collecting and discharging the sewage system arises.

cesspool- this is the simplest option for sewerage in a private or country house, which you can do yourself.

Where should the cesspool be located?

To start, need to decide on a site, on which a cesspool system will be installed.

• directly on the site adjacent to a private or country house;
• it is possible to arrange at a distance of at least 10 meters from the foundation of a residential building and other buildings on the personal territory and to the structures located in the neighborhood;

Important! This requirement is based on the fact that if a leaky pit is installed closer without pumping, the foundations of nearby buildings may be destroyed, as well as their flooding.

• the distance from the pit to the fence is also regulated and must be at least one meter;
• the depth should not be more than 3 meters. When choosing, you need to take into account the depth of passage groundwater;
• the pit must be located at a certain distance (25 meters) from drinking wells.

This distance depends on the type of soil on the backyard:

• At clay soil– no closer than 20 meters;
• For loamy soil - no closer than 30 meters;
• For sandy loam and sandy soil, the cesspool cannot be installed closer than 50 meters from the well.

DIY cesspool system

There are two main types of pit arrangement:

• sealed;
• regular without bottom.

The option for arranging a sewer system in a country or private house is determined by the location of the territory, the daily amount of wastewater and the material capabilities of the owner of the site:

• if the daily amount of wastewater is no more than one cubic meter, it is possible to build a simple system without a bottom and without pumping. In this type of pit, the wastewater partially goes into the ground, where it is purified by anaerobic bacteria. An example of this cesspool is the classic rural toilet;
• with a large amount of wastewater (more than a cubic meter), the construction of a sealed structure is required, which must be pumped out from time to time.

This requirement is explained by the fact that if there is no bottom in the pit, wastewater passes into the ground and its cleaning occurs by microorganisms, located in the thickness of the earth. But their cleaning capabilities are not limitless.

With large amounts of wastewater, microorganisms cannot cope with water purification. In this case, the wastewater will begin to pollute the adjacent area and may pass into water-bearing soil layers with further contamination of the drinking well.

If disposal is required large quantity wastewater, you can consider installing a septic tank with filtration fields.

Do-it-yourself ordinary sewer pit

The simplest waste system is done like this:

• a pit is dug up to two meters deep, two meters wide and up to three meters long;
• earth walls are laid or fixed;
• a layer of crushed stone is poured down;
• A protective ceiling with a lid is installed on top.

The main advantages of a pit without a bottom:

• ease of use;
• low cost of design and operation;
• simple and quick DIY construction.

Disadvantages of a pit without a bottom:

• the groundwater level must be below the level of the sewage system;
• not suitable for draining large quantities of sewage water;
• environmentally unsafe;
• unscheduled filling due to rainwater is possible;
• has an unpleasant odor.

Sealed waste pit

A sealed waste system is a sealed container into which water is pumped out through pipes. sewage water. As the container fills, sewage water must be pumped out with a special machine.

The main advantages of a sealed system:

• the installation location does not depend on the type of soil on the site;
• does not depend on the passage of groundwater;
• environmentally friendly, sewage water does not enter the environment.

Disadvantages of a sealed design:

• a smell appears if the storage tank is made in the shape of a well;
• monthly costs (you need to periodically call a sewer truck for pumping);
• relatively high construction cost.

How to build a drainage hole with your own hands

Let's consider different types and methods for constructing drainage systems that you can do yourself. They are conventionally divided into permanent and temporary.

From car tires

If you need a drainage system for a toilet in a country house at minimal cost, you can make it yourself using old car tires.

It's fast and a budget option construction of a sewer pit. The design is quite simple. A pit is made where old tires are laid one on top of the other. A layer of crushed stone is poured onto the bottom of the pit; if desired, the tires are sealed with a clay lock.

Advantages:

• if necessary, it can be easily restored;
• durability;
• speed, simplicity and low cost of construction.

Flaws:

• tires rot over time;
• the possibility of a negative impact on the environment due to high load on the structure;
• rapid silting with insufficient cleaning and pumping, resulting in loss of usable area.

Made from concrete rings

This is another way rapid construction drain system. Its design is similar to a well. The rings are installed on top of each other. The connections between them, if desired, are sealed using a cement screed.

According to its design, the sewer pit is made of concrete rings applies more to sealed structures. Because you need to pump it out regularly. Although there is an option to install a septic tank made of concrete rings.

Main advantages:

• Convenience of installing a protective cover with a hatch;
• durability;
• possibility of construction with your own hands;
• relatively low cost.

Flaws:

• possibility of manifestation unpleasant odor from ventilation pipes;
• the need for periodic pumping;
• complexity of installation.

Brick drainage pit

This is the most successful and optimal option if you need a drainage system for a toilet or bathhouse in a country house.

Advantages:

• ease of construction - almost any summer resident can handle laying bricks for a drainage pit;
• environmental friendliness - the contents of the drainage structure are periodically pumped out by a sewage disposal machine.

Flaws:

• siltation. Siltation can be prevented by constantly pumping out the liquid in the storage tank;
• relatively a short time service (up to 20 years), as a result of brick destruction in unfavorable conditions of the drainage system;
• Occasionally, an unpleasant odor may form. The use of various drugs that accelerate waste decomposition processes and timely pumping of the storage tank can help cope with this.

Construction of a brick cesspool

First you need to decide on the location of the drainage pit, following all the rules and taking into account ease of use.

We choose a design. Taking into account the purpose, a brick drainage pit can be rectangular, square or round.

We calculate the required volume, dimensions and prepare a foundation pit for the pit.

With a rectangular design, we tilt the bottom to the side to install the hatch. Place a 20 cm layer of sand at the bottom of the hole and fill it cement mortar. You can take a ready-made reinforced concrete slab of the required dimensions. A cement screed is made on top.

We are laying the walls. The optimal wall thickness is 30 cm. It is advisable to lay the walls in a checkerboard pattern of half a brick. Quarter brick installation is possible.

Then, when the walls are ready, you need to process them bitumen mastic or make a clay castle on the outside for better sealing. If necessary, we plaster the inner surface.

Installation of hatch and ceiling

Then, when the base of the drainage pit is ready, we install a ceiling with a hatch. The overlap must no less than 50 cm cover the hole around the perimeter.

Concrete slabs are chosen as the ceiling or logs are carefully laid. When arranging a septic tank, you need to provide a location for the hatch. The hatch is made measuring 70 cm.

On top of the stele ceiling, waterproofing is made of film or roofing felt. We cover the waterproofing with a layer of slag or soil measuring 0.5 m.

Attention! To protect against the appearance of odors from the drainage pit and its freezing, the hatch in the pit is installed double. The top cover is located on the surface of the ground, and the other at the ceiling level. The space that appears in the bow is filled thermal insulation materials(slag, expanded clay, foam, etc.).

Sewage pit from a barrel

This great option arrangement of water drains with your own hands with natural cleaning cesspool with small amounts of waste (up to 1 cubic meter).

Barrel preparation:

• use 200 liter barrel, best of all, from a material that does not corrode, we make holes in the wall in a checkerboard pattern for drainage using a drill or grinder. It is advisable to make holes at a distance of 15-25 centimeters;
• We tightly attach the connection pipe to the bottom of the barrel drain pipe. To ensure sealing, you can use silicone sealants. We treat the connection area of ​​the pipe with mastic;
• We wrap the barrel in geotextile and secure it firmly with twine. This is necessary to ensure that the container is protected from soil and other foreign particles entering its structure while maintaining normal drainage.

Installation of a cesspool sewer system:

• we make a trench and lay sewer pipes, always with a slope;
• we prepare a pit with a depth and size slightly higher than the depth of the barrel;
• down the pit we fill gravel or crushed stone with a layer of 20 cm;
• We place a barrel on this pillow and connect the drain pipe;
• fill the resulting space between the walls of the pit and the container with gravel or crushed stone;
• We connect the sewer pipe to the installed pipe.

Now the sewer pit for your bathhouse is ready. You can also make a toilet drain pit with your own hands.

As an option for arranging a home sewer system, you can consider installing a concrete cesspool.

Stages of constructing a concrete pit:

Using this technology, you can make a toilet drain pit with your own hands.

Summarizing

There are quite a few options for building a cesspool yourself. Selecting a specific solution, taking into account specific conditions and material capabilities. You can also consider installing a septic tank or purchasing ready-made kit for arranging a drainage pit.

Today, people live in an era of existence of all kinds of conveniences, and to many residents, especially children and youth, it seems that these conveniences have always existed. These amenities include a sewer system.

Being in the city, we cannot imagine life without a central sewer system, and yet in many populated areas our country, such systems do not exist. As a result, residents construct local sewer pits for a specific house or several residential buildings. In this article we will get acquainted with the process of installing a sewer pit in a private house yourself.

Types of pits

Sealed sewer pit

Our country is large and the soils are different, and a sewer pit is a depression of several meters in the ground. Therefore, there are many laws that prohibit or permit the construction of certain types of sewer pits in various conditions.

Sewage pits differ in the material of manufacture, cleaning methods and other parameters. Most experts divide sewer pits into two types:

• Leaky sewer pit. For natural drainage, soil or a cushion of crushed stone is used, which is not poured cement screed or other material that does not allow water to pass through.
• Sealed sewer pit. This type of pit is used in places where groundwater flows at a shallow depth, and creating a pit without a bottom can lead to harmful substances from the sewer entering the groundwater. The latter will lead to danger for flora and fauna.

Due to the danger of soil contamination, in some places the law prohibits the construction of sewer pits without a bottom; permission is given only for sealed pits. A sealed pit is the same as a filling well that does not allow water to pass through, only instead of filling clean water, such a pit will be filled with sewage.

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Read about the technology for cleaning a well with your own hands in

Choosing the right place

Once you have decided that you need to make a sewer pit, walk around your site and choose its location.

From the right choice place depends, firstly, on safety for humans and environment, secondly, ease of maintenance. Approach this issue responsibly and consider the following factors:

• • Remoteness. The sewer pit must be located at a certain distance from residential buildings, as well as from the place where the fence takes place clean water. When making a pit without a bottom, it must be located at a distance of 20-30 meters from the well or well and living space. If used sealed pit, it can be located 5 meters from the same structures. Compliance with these factors will help avoid getting harmful substances into drinking water and unpleasant odors into the apartment.

Important condition: The distance between sewer pits and residential buildings and water intake points should be 5-30 meters, depending on the type of pit.

• Availability. No matter how large a sewer pit is, there will come a time when it needs to be cleaned. For this case, your pit should be located in a place accessible to the access of sewage disposal equipment. And don’t listen to the talk that some of your friends have been using a septic tank for 10 years and the pit has never been filled, the pit will still have to be cleaned.

Construction stages

Before starting the construction of the pit, it is necessary to make calculations and determine the required volume of the future sewerage system. These calculations are simple, but depend on several factors:

• Temporary housing. If you are going to build a sewer system in places of temporary or seasonal residence, for example, in a country house, you can calculate the volume using the formula 0.5 cubic meters per resident. That is, if 4 people live, this figure will be 2 cubic meters.
• Permanent home. In case of constant use of water, dishwasher and washing machine, other water-consuming elements, the formula will be different - from 1.5 to 2 cubic meters for each resident. That is, with the same four residents, the required volume will increase to 6-8 cubic meters.

Advice from experienced builders: When calculating the volume of the pit, it should be taken into account that its depth should be no more than 3 meters. Otherwise, the sewage disposal equipment will not reach the bottom, as a result of which thick residue will accumulate in the pit.

At this point, the preparatory work ends and you can begin the actual construction of the sewer pit. The process itself consists of four stages:

How to make a porch in a private house with your own hands:

• . After the volume calculations have been carried out, you will already know what size you need to prepare the foundation pit. Please note that the container will overlap at the top, so add about half a meter to the depth.
• Construction of a sewer pit. This is the most important and responsible moment. You need to choose which type of container you will use:
  • • An ordinary unsealed pit. This option is only suitable for non-permanent residential buildings.

  

  Scheme of a sewer pit made of tires

  • • Device made from car tires. It is common in rural areas, since the price of old tires is low, and in some cases it is possible to purchase them for free. When laying tires one on top of the other, the joints must be coated with bitumen for tightness, and the bottom can be filled with a concrete screed, resulting in a finished container.
  • • Brickwork. A more expensive and labor-intensive type of container is brickwork. Round or rectangular walls (as convenient) are laid around the perimeter; the bottom can be left made of soil or filled with concrete screed.

  

  Sewage pit made of concrete rings

• Reinforced concrete rings. The inconvenience of concrete rings is that for installation you will need to call a crane, since they cannot be installed manually. However, the process itself will occur much faster than the previous type of device. You can do the same with the bottom as with the above proposed option.

Important point: containers made of brick and reinforced concrete rings are treated with a moisture-resistant coating on the outside and inside. Inside - with bitumen, outside - clay barrier walls are created.



Plastic storage

• Metal and plastic storage devices. Most convenient types The installation of sewer pits will be ready-made metal or plastic containers. You will not have any difficulties finding such containers - they can be purchased at garden and home stores. The volumes of such containers vary - from 1 to 10 cubic meters. Metal containers To increase service life, it must be treated with anti-corrosion agents.
• Plastic containers, protected around the perimeter concrete walls to eliminate the possibility of deformation, and are also secured to the ground with cables.
• Installation and supply of pipes. At this stage, a sewer pipe is laid from the living space, the preferred option is plastic pipe with a diameter of 100 mm. In addition to this pipe, it is necessary to make a gas outlet so that gases do not accumulate in the sewer pit.
• Floor installation. The final stage of constructing a sewer pit is covering it. Most often, reinforced concrete slabs are used as flooring, combining strength and durability. Some craftsmen cover it with iron sheets, but their service life is noticeably shorter than that of the first option. The joints of the plate and the container must be sealed. The same bitumen or liquid clay can be used as a sealant.

Cleaning methods

Science does not stand still, and even in such a matter as sewerage cleaning, progress is being noticed. Until recently, there was only one way to clean a septic tank - mechanically. Today two more types have been added to them - chemical and biological.

Mechanical cleaning of sewer pit

Mechanical method. It involves pumping out sewage using sewage trucks. This is done quickly and the cost is not too expensive. But there is a big minus.

In case of use mechanical method not cleared drainage system the bottom of your sewer pit, as a result of which it will fill each subsequent time faster than the previous one.

Chemical and biological method. If you are interested deep cleaning and disinfection, use chemical or biologically cleaning. As a result of the use of chemicals and biological bacteria, the following occurs:

• decomposition of large compounds;
• wastewater disinfection;
• cleaning the drainage system;
• reduction in precipitation volume;
• elimination of odors.

The chemicals used to clean sewers can be divided into four groups:

Chemical cleaning of sewage system

• ammonium compounds;
• nitrogen fertilizers;
• formaldehyde;
• bleaching powder.

Biological drugs are presented in a fairly wide selection, for example, Vodogray, UNIBAC and others.

The difference between biological drugs and chemical drugs is their harmlessness. They do not harm the animal, flora and the container itself, located in the sewer pit.

The result of the work performed will please you for a long time. Agree - the amenities in the house are much preferable to the amenities in the yard, especially in our harsh climate.

The presented types of sewer systems can be built on almost any site at minimal cost Money, and alternating cleaning methods will allow you to maintain sewer system V good condition a fairly long period of time.

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To ensure a comfortable stay in a private house, its owner has to make a lot of efforts. This is about serving everyone. engineering communications, including the sewerage system, which in one’s own household consists of a cesspool and sewer pipes.

A cesspool with a volume of 2 cubic meters is capable of processing waste, provided that no more than two family members permanently live in the house or the building is used only for temporary residence. The drainage pit should be cleaned frequently, and this costs a lot of money, since you need to order a sewer truck. Experts recommend building high-quality buildings on the site treatment plant, the contents of which will need to be pumped out much less frequently.

Selecting the type of drain pit

Before digging a drain hole, you should familiarize yourself with their main types:

1. An earthen tank without a bottom is the most popular. Due to absence concrete base, the liquid partially goes into the soil and the wastewater collects in the container very slowly. It should be cleaned no more than once every few months.

   The design without a bottom, such as in the photo, has a number of serious disadvantages. Sewage and sewage gradually pollute the soil and groundwater, so digging drainage holes should be done at a certain distance from the house, but no closer than 5 meters. Besides this type The drainage structure loses its filtering capacity over time due to gradual silting of the bottom.

   Two-chamber septic tank has more complex design. The waste liquid first flows into the first container, where large waste settles. Then the bacteria begin to process the contents. The first chamber is connected to another container via a drain pipe. Thus, a fine-grained, purer liquid enters the second part of the septic tank. There the wastewater finally settles.

   
   The second tank has a similar device as the first part of the treatment plant. In it, bacteria continue to process wastewater. Both chambers are cleaned approximately 1-2 times throughout the year. The output from the septic tank is water that is quite suitable for use for technical purposes, for example, for irrigation. It can also be dumped into a nearby body of water.

   How to dig a drain hole correctly

   There are certain sanitary standards regulating how to properly dig a drainage hole. Initially, you should choose the place where the pit will be built. Read also: "".

   

   The minimum depth of the drainage pit should be 2 meters, despite the fact that the groundwater level is below this mark. Also, the pit should be located at a distance of at least 30 meters from a water source, such as a well. In no case should the minimum distance from the well to the cesspool be reduced.

   
   Before digging a drainage hole, you need to make sure that it will be located at a distance of at least 5 meters from a residential building. The drainage ditch must not be located on a slope of the site and far from the road (this is required in order to pump out sewage using special equipment, if necessary). Read also: "".

   The pit is dug either manually or using an excavator. Its width must exceed the estimated width of the pit by approximately 50 centimeters to complete internal lining. When calculating the depth of the future pit, the thickness of the bottom filled with concrete solution is taken into account. In addition to the hole, you need to dig trenches for laying sewer pipes.

   

   The walls of the drain pit and its cover

   A home craftsman needs to know not only how to dig a drainage hole, but also be able to finish its walls.

   A drainage cushion consisting of sand and several layers of crushed stone is placed at the bottom of the pit. A reinforced concrete slab is placed on it or a concrete screed is made. When a filter pit is created, a 20-centimeter layer of crushed stone, stones, broken bricks or cinder block.

   Materials for wall decoration you can use:

   • concrete solution. The formwork with inserted rods is first installed, and then the walls are poured. The thickness of the concrete layer must be at least 7 centimeters;
   • Red brick. The walls are laid out from the bottom to the very top;
   • reinforced concrete columns. They are placed on cement mortar in a row. To prevent collapse, stops are made on both sides of the masonry;
   • reinforced concrete rings. A crane is required for their installation. The rings are placed on a concrete base arranged at the bottom of the pit. The joints between the elements are coated with cement mortar;
   • most simple solution is a ready-made container (optionally plastic) placed in a pit. Before digging a drain hole, you need to know the parameters of the tank (purchased tank) so that they correspond to its size.

   

   When finishing the walls, the pit is simultaneously connected to the sewer pipes. They should be connected tightly to the wall material, but not rigidly. This is done in order to prevent damage to the pipes during soil sedimentation. It is advisable to use rubber connectors and adapters with a sufficient degree of strength. The outside of the pit is lined with several layers of roofing felt or greasy clay.

   It is impossible to hermetically cover the drainage pit, since it must communicate with the atmosphere. In addition, the lid must have a hole for pumping out sewage through it. That's why the best option the ceilings for the pit are slate sheets. To do this, place on top of the pit wooden joists. When the pit needs to be opened slightly, the sheets are removed and set aside. To cover the pit in this way, it is necessary to make insulation for the winter.

   Another option is concrete slab with hole for cleaning. Sometimes you can make a ceiling from boards. Regardless of the cover option for the drainage pit, rain and melt water should not get into the pit.

   Chemicals for septic tanks and pits

   For drainage pits, there is a huge selection of various bioactivator products on sale. They are produced in the form of solutions, powders, tablets, etc. These drugs contain strains of microorganisms that can process human waste very quickly. Bacteria feed on organic substances and consume oxygen, which is dissolved in wastewater.

   As a result, microorganisms quickly rid the surrounding area around the pit of stench and decompose sewage into individual components.

Living in a city apartment is good because no problems usually arise with the discharge of wastewater. In this regard, private houses lag behind, since central system There is no drainage in them, and the only way to ensure comfortable accommodation- this is the arrangement of a cesspool into which waste products would be dumped.

Without a cesspool, wastewater discharged into nearby areas will quickly pollute the soil and can harm not only nature, but also people.

Classification of cesspools

There are several design options for a cesspool, so it’s worth understanding them first.

1. A simple pit is a structure without a bottom in which liquid is absorbed by the earth. This option is the most popular, because pumping in this case is carried out quite rarely. But with increased water consumption (over 1 m³ per day), the earthen “filter” simply will not cope. Moreover, it is environmentally unsafe, especially if toilet waste is discharged into it. Of course, you can fill it up from time to time, but this will reduce the usable volume, and the characteristic sewer smell will still be present.

   

2. The sealed pit requires periodic cleaning, but is absolutely safe for the environment. Arranging a sealed structure is much more complicated than the one described above, and the costs are higher, but the numerous advantages completely justify it all.

   

3. - a modern analogue of a cesspool. Its bottom is lined with gravel, stones or broken bricks, which allows for mechanical purification of water (read: the soil is not polluted). Moreover, filling the pit occurs quite slowly.

   

Now let's find out how to make a cesspool correctly.

Construction of a brick cesspool

Before you begin construction, determine appropriate place and calculate the required dimensions of the structure.

Stage one. Selecting a location

Construction of a cesspool on suburban area regulated by SNiP. The location of the pit, as well as the distance to certain buildings, are clearly regulated by sanitary standards. When planning, these requirements must be taken into account.

1. The distance between the pit and the fence must exceed 1 m.
2. The distance to the premises in which people are planned to live must be at least 12 m.
3. If you plan to create a simple hole, that is, without a bottom, then the distance from it to the nearest well or borehole should exceed 30 m.

Based on these requirements, select optimal place, then proceed to calculate the dimensions.

Stage two. Dimensions

There are a number of parameters that need to be taken into account when calculating the dimensions of the future structure.

1. First of all, the dimensions depend on the type of rocks that occur in a particular area. And if the soil consists predominantly of moisture-permeable rock (for example, marl), then the volume of the structure should be 40% of the waste that is produced during the month. And if these are rocks that do not permeate moisture well (for example, clay), then the volume should be equal to the monthly norm + a small reserve.
2. This also includes the number of permanent residents of the house. On average, one person produces 180 liters of wastewater per day. And if the family consists of, say, 3 people, then the monthly volume of wastewater will be 12 m³.
3. According to SNiP, the distance to the surface must be at least 1 m. If this condition is not met, uncleanliness may go beyond the structure, and unpleasant odors will certainly appear.
4. The depth should be a maximum of 3 m. This is the optimal depth, because sooner or later you will have to resort to using vacuum cleaners for cleaning. And if the pit is sealed, then such cleaning will need to be carried out several times a month.

Stage three. Preparing the necessary equipment

The work will require:

• bayonet and shovel shovels;
• trowel, container for mixing cement mortar;
• roulette;
• cord with small wooden pegs;
• building level;
• ladder.

Stage four. Digging a pit

You can handle the construction of a cesspool on your own, without resorting to the help of a construction team with special equipment. This will allow you to save significantly. But remember: you will have to manually remove about 20 m³ of soil.

On a note! If possible, the hole should be dug at the stage of digging a pit for the foundation of the house. After this, only a small part of the work will remain.

Mark the perimeter of the future structure. Often the width of the pit is 1 m and the depth is 1.5 m. The length depends on the volume of wastewater. You can distribute the fertile layer of soil around the site, the rest will have to be removed. Leave only 1.5 m³ to fill the floor.

The excavation is almost complete

At the same stage, you should dig a trench into which the sewer pipe will be laid.

Stage five. Base

If you are planning to build a sealed sewage pit, then place a “cushion” of sand 15 cm thick at the bottom of the pit. Lay a layer of concrete of the same thickness on top of the sand, then pierce the solution sharp object to remove air bubbles. Then all that remains is to lay a 4-centimeter cement-sand screed on top of the concrete.

You might be interested in information about what it looks like

Wait for the base to dry completely, then lay sewer pipe to remove waste.

Prices for concrete rings

concrete rings

Stage six. Wall masonry

Let’s say right away that you don’t have to try too hard on the quality of the masonry, since no one will see it anyway. Do it in ¼ or ½ brick, in a checkerboard pattern, use cement-sand mortar. Plaster the masonry on both sides with the same solution - this will extend the basic service life of the structure. Bandage the corners.

Having finished with the masonry, insulate the walls with bitumen mastic.

Stage seven. Overlap

To install the ceiling, follow these steps:

Step 1. First, dig in about 20cm of soil on each side to provide additional support for the deck slab.

Step 2. Build the formwork. It is advisable to use corrugated sheeting for this so that the ceiling is as rigid as possible. Also make formwork around the hatch and the hole for the ventilation pipe.

Step 3. Lay the reinforcing rods, maintaining a distance of approximately 10-15 cm. Bandage the intersecting rods using steel wire.

Step 4. Fill the ceiling concrete mortar, align it.

Spread the concrete so that it completely fills reinforcing mesh. Fill the solution to the desired thickness and wait until it hardens. This often takes a minimum of 28 days.

On a note! On top of the ceiling, you can lay a layer of waterproofing material - for example, roofing felt or PE film.

Stage eight. Backfill

As soon as the concrete gains strength, begin filling the cesspool. It is advisable to use for this clay soil to create additional protection of groundwater from runoff. You can lay thermal insulation material on the ceiling (for example, expanded polystyrene sheet), and fill the top with soil. At the end, install the ventilation pipe.

On a note! It is advisable to construct a double hatch - this will prevent the spread of unpleasant odors, especially in the warm season. Install the first cover at ground level, the second at the level of the ceiling slab. You can fill the space between the covers with slag or expanded clay.

made of concrete rings

There is another option - it costs more, but the finished design will look more organic. Brick pits are often rectangular or square, but the use of reinforced concrete rings allows you to achieve perfect round shape. This will prevent excessive load on the walls and, as a result, their destruction. The only drawback of this option is that the work may require special equipment, because concrete cylinders weigh a lot.

Stage one. Selection of rings

Today, concrete rings are produced in several modifications, differing from each other in diameter (it varies between 70-250 cm). For a cesspool, products with a diameter of 1 m and the same height are most suitable. For an average house you will need five rings, the total usable volume of which will be 5 m³. If according to calculations the volume should be large, then take other reinforced concrete rings or buy products with a larger diameter.

Dimensions (inner diameter × outer diameter × height), mm	volume, m3	Weight, kg
700×800×290	0,05	130
700×840×590	0,10	250
700×840×890	0,15	380
1000×1160×290	0,08	200
1000×1160×590	0,160	400
1000×1160×890	0,24	600
1500×1680×290	0,13	290
1500×1680×590	0,27	660
1500×1680×890	0,40	1000
2000×2200×590	0,39	980
2000×2200×890	0,59	1480

Such rings are classified according to design features into two large groups:

• flat;
• with a lock.

In the first case, the edges of the products are ordinary, flat, and in the second, they are equipped locking connections"groove-ridge". Locking rings are very convenient because they not only provide ease of installation, but also reliably seal the entire pit.

On a note! In the manufacture of reinforced concrete rings, a minimum of “five hundredth” cement and a metal reinforcing frame are used. There are also products with a lid and a bottom, which greatly facilitates construction.

Stage two. Construction

Step 1. First, dig a pit. It is important that its dimensions are approximately 40 cm larger than the diameter of the rings. The depth of the hole should exceed the total height of all rings by about 25-30 cm.

Step 2. Level and compact the bottom of the hole, then fill it with a 2-centimeter layer of coarse sand. Pour water over the sand and compact it. This way you will create a kind of “cushion” on which further installation will be carried out.

Step 3. Further events will develop according to one of two possible scenarios:

• The ring with the bottom is installed first;
• regular rings are installed.

In the first case, you will get rid of the labor-intensive procedure of pouring the base; This is the simplest option, so it is recommended to use it. But if for one reason or another it was not possible to purchase a ring with a bottom, then you will have to fill the bottom with concrete.

To do this, lay reinforcing rods in the form of a lattice at the bottom of the pit, and then tie them together with steel wire.

On a note! Raise the reinforcing mesh above the surface so that it (the mesh) is entirely in the body of the concrete base. Use pieces of bricks for this.

Then start preparing the solution. To do this, mix cement, water, sand and crushed stone in a ratio of 1:0.5:2:3. Use at least “four hundred” cement, and if the grade is lower, then reduce the volume of fillers. You can use a concrete mixer for mixing, or you can do the work manually using a shovel. But remember: the solution must be prepared in such a volume that the bottom of the hole is filled in one go, without subsequent mixing.

Pour concrete and spread it over the entire surface. Poke it with a sharp object to remove air bubbles.

Stage three. Installation of rings

You cannot lower the rings into the hole by hand, because they weigh quite a lot. To do this you will need a truck crane. Each ring has four fastening elements made in the form of ears (the products are lifted using them). To make such ears, a wire rod is used, the diameter of which is at least 0.6 cm.

On a note! The rings should be lifted simultaneously by all the ears, and the cables should be evenly tensioned. The entire procedure must be performed carefully and slowly.

Once the first ring is down, level it and level it using a level. After that you can omit the rest. Seal the joints between the rings with cement-based sealant, and treat all walls of the structure - external and internal - with bitumen mastic.

Finally, the lid is installed. When the truck crane lifts and places the cover in place, seal the joints between it and the last cylinder. After this, fill in the voids between the walls of the structure and the walls of the pit.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated about this. Of course, you will have to perform labor-intensive excavation and pay for the rental of special equipment, but good sewerage in a private home it is simply necessary, so all costs are completely justified.

Video - How to make a cesspool with your own hands

Reinforced concrete rings or bricks – what to choose?

Each of the options is quite simple to implement, but both concrete rings and brickwork have their own advantages.

1. The strength and practicality of a cesspool made of reinforced concrete rings is noticeably higher.
2. A brick pit less often needs sewage cleaning.
3. The rings can withstand a greater load than brickwork, even if it is made “in a chessboard style.”

As a result, we note that the construction of a cesspool on a site requires substantial investment, at least if we're talking about about a really good design, for the manufacture of which they use quality materials. You should not skimp on materials that will come into contact with moisture (do not use cinder blocks or sand-lime brick), because everyone knows that a miser pays more than once. Act carefully, ask friends and acquaintances for help if necessary, do not rush - and the sewage pit will serve you for many years.

Table. Water consumption for a private home. Selecting the volume of the cesspool

Water consumers: individual or block residential buildings	Specific average daily (per year) domestic and drinking water consumption in populated areas per inhabitant, l/day
with running water and sewerage without baths	120
with water supply and sewerage without baths, with gas supply	150
with water supply, sewerage and bathtubs with water heaters running on solid fuel	180
with running water, sewerage and bathroom with gas or electric boilers	190
with water supply, sewerage, with quick-acting gas heaters(columns) and several baths	250

Good luck with your work!

Construction of a storage septic tank made of concrete rings