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Natalya Dishuk 02/12/2014 | 6340
If brown spots appear on the leaves of a lily, then the plant is suffering from gray rot. How to deal with it?
Gray mold develops especially often in climatic zones with moderate temperatures and high rainfall. Most often it affects perennial flower crops (lilies, peonies, tulips) in open ground. The pathogenic infection accumulates in the soil, roots, bulbs, and especially on the above-ground parts of the plant when grown for a long time in one place. In summer and spring, the infection spreads from diseased plants to healthy ones through water and air. During the growing season, spores scatter and end up on healthy plants, settle on the soil and weeds. Mycelium and spores overwinter on plant debris in the soil and in the rosette of leaves. The optimal temperature for their development is 16-21°C.
Control measures
- Plant only healthy bulbs in an open, well-ventilated, sunny area.
- Do not overfeed with manure and nitrogen fertilizers - this reduces the plant's resistance to disease.
- Eliminate weeds and pests that weaken plants.
- Before the end of the growing season, cut off the affected parts of the plants and burn them.
- Never bury them with plant debris. If there is an infection on the bulb area, before planting, treat it with a fungicide solution (Topsin-M - 0.2%; Fundazol - 0.2%; Bordeaux mixture - 1%; copper oxychloride - 0.5%; Bayleton - 0.1%, Azophos - 2%). You can also shed the soil around the lilies with a solution of the drug Maxim. It is effective against many fungal diseases, incl. gray rot. The fungicide kills infection around and on the surface of lily bulbs.
- But since infection of stems, leaves and buds occurs mainly on the surface, it is more effective to spray the above-ground parts of plants 2-3 times (with an interval of 16-20 days) with fungicide solutions before the disease and in case of its signs (spots on the leaves).
Often gray mold It affects the entire plant: leaves, buds, stems, flowers and seed pods, sometimes even bulbs. Dark brown spots appear first, later fading in the center. On the leaves they become transparent with darker watery edges. The spots increase in size, merge, cover all leaves and cause them to die. When the bulbs are damaged, the same spots appear on the upper lobules. When the stem is damaged, the entire upstream part of the plant turns brown and dries out. Sick buds do not open and turn brown. All diseased parts of plants wet weather covered with sporulation of the fungus.
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Nutritious lily bulbs are loved not only by rodents, but also by smaller pests. In addition, the succulent stems and fleshy leaves of plants are affected by viral and fungal diseases that spoil appearance flowers and can even completely destroy them.
To cure a lily, you first need to correctly determine the cause of its damage. Read this article to learn how to determine which pest has settled on your beauties, as well as distinguish between fungal and viral diseases.
Fungal diseases of lilies
Lily is affected by fungal infections that occur in many flower crops. The spread of rot is facilitated by high humidity, improper care, lack of preventive measures.
Of all fungal diseases, gray rot is the most dangerous. Initially, the disease affects the lower leaves of plants, but very quickly covers all parts of the flower.
Signs
The first signs of gray rot are brown round spots, which during development transform into brown mucous tissue with a gray coating. Gray rot spreads in rainy and damp weather, as well as during sudden temperature changes. Affected lilies do not die, but only slow down in growth and lose their decorative properties.
Control measures
It is difficult to stop the disease, since the pathogen overwinters in bulbs and plant debris. Therefore, before planting, the bulbs must be soaked in a 0.5-1% solution of the TMTD disinfectant or in a 0.25-0.5% suspension of Fundazol. When the first signs of the disease appear, the flowers are treated with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture or another fungicide (Fundazol, Khom, Oksikh) once every 1-1.5 weeks.
Fusarium
Fusarium is a rot that affects the bottom of the lily bulb. A plant that develops normally during the growing season dies during wintering. The cause of the disease is dampness, application organic fertilizers containing fungal spores.
Signs
Fungal infection begins from the bottom of the bulb. At the point where the scales are attached to it, the lily bulb turns brown and falls apart. It is almost impossible to recognize this disease on a growing flower, since it can develop normally due to supra-bulb roots that are not damaged by the fungus. However, in winter the plant is doomed to inevitable death.
Control measures
Disinfect the soil with copper sulfate and formaldehyde 2-3 weeks before planting the bulbs. Soak the bulbs themselves for half an hour in a 0.2% solution of Fundazol. Spray the plantings with a 0.1% solution of Fundazol or Bavistin every 1-1.5 weeks. You can also carry out treatments with a 0.2% solution of Topsin-M or Euparen.
Phythium is a disease of lilies that causes rotting of the roots, as a result of which the development of the crop is disrupted: the plant does not receive enough nutrients and moisture. The affected lily loses its decorative effect and blooms weakly.
Signs
The tops of the leaves turn yellow and the lily dries out. The roots of the bulb become covered with brown spots.
Control measures
Remove affected parts of the plant. Before planting, disinfect the soil with a 0.4% solution of colloidal sulfur, soak the bulbs for half an hour in a 0.2% solution of Fundazol.
Blue mold affects the bulbs during storage.
Signs
White spots of fungal hyphae with a greenish coating on the bulbs. When digging up the bulbs, you may notice that they have turned yellow and their roots have died.
Control measures
Rejection of diseased bulbs. Compliance with storage rules. Ventilation and disinfection of storage.
Penicillosis
Penicillosis affects all parts of lilies and causes them to rot.
Signs
Bulbs, flowers, stems become covered with a green coating. Sick plants are stunted and form weak flower stalks.
Control measures
Follow storage rules. When the first signs appear, etch the affected bulbs in a 0.2% solution of potassium permanganate.
Rust
This disease is transmitted through plant debris contaminated with fungal spores.
Signs
The first signs of the disease are small colorless spots that turn yellow over time. Pads of red spores appear on the surface of the spots. As a result, the stems and leaves of lilies dry out.
Control measures
Remove and burn affected leaves. Spray the plants with a 0.2% Zineb solution and feed regularly potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. Replant lilies in the area where rust-affected bulbs grew, no earlier than after 3 years.
Viral diseases of lilies
Viral diseases of bulbous plants are spread by insect pests (aphids and thrips) or by flower growers themselves through infected garden tools.
Cucumber and tobacco mosaic viruses
A fairly common disease of lilies, which is carried by aphids.
Signs
Cucumber and tobacco mosaic viruses appear as light streaks and ring spots on leaves and flowers. As a result of the defeat, the lily's stem becomes deformed and stops growing.
Control measures
Regularly inspect lilies and remove suspicious leaves, destroy specimens affected by the mosaic. Disinfect garden tools. In order to combat the disease carrier (aphids), spray the plantings with a 0.3% solution of Karbofos.
Tulip variegation virus
This virus settles inside lily cells. Most often carried by aphids from tulips.
Signs
The variegation virus disrupts the pigmentation of the petals, resulting in flowers with streaks, strokes, and spots of a different color. Diseased bulbs of the next generation decrease in size, plants weaken, and the variety gradually degenerates.
Control measures
Spray the plantings with a 0.3% solution of Karbofos to protect them from aphids. Regularly inspect lilies and remove suspicious leaves, destroy specimens affected by the mosaic. Disinfect garden tools.
Rosette disease
The occurrence of this disease in lilies is provoked by the whole complex viruses.
Signs
Lilies affected by this virus are characterized by thickening and yellowing of the stem and the absence of flowers.
Control measures
Spray the plantings with a 0.3% solution of Karbofos to protect them from aphids. Regularly inspect lilies and remove suspicious leaves, destroy specimens affected by the mosaic. Disinfect garden tools before any manipulations with bulbs and above-ground parts of plants.
Pests of lilies
There are about 15 types of pests that attack lilies. These small insects weaken plants and are carriers of viruses. Let's list the most dangerous of them.
Spider mite
This pest feeds on the sap of young shoots, which inhibits the growth of lilies. Eggs red spider mite can live in soil for up to 5 years.
Signs
The lily leaves curl and the plant itself gradually dries out. Upon closer inspection, white eggs and adult red spider mites are visible on the leaves.
Control measures
If a pest is detected, spray the plants soap solution, 0.2% solution of Karbofos or acaricide (Apollo, Actofit, etc.).
Squeak beetle (lily beetle, bulbous rattle)
A bright red squeak beetle lays larvae on lily leaves Pink colour, covered with green-brown mucus, which can deprive the plant of almost all leaves.
Signs
Larvae and adults of the pest visible to the naked eye.
Control measures
Spray the plants with a 0.2% solution of Karbofos or another insecticide (Inta-Vir, Decis).
The lily fly starts inside an uncolored lily bud. Damage will become noticeable when the fly larva has already done “its job” and pupated in the ground.
Signs
Corroded pistils and anthers of stamens of flowers.
Control measures
Destroy damaged buds. Spray the plants with a 0.2% solution of Karbofos or another insecticide (Ditox, EC, etc.).
Medvedka
The mole cricket eats the roots, bulbs and stems of lilies.
Signs
The presence of a mole cricket in the area can be seen by holes in the soil. If you notice that the lily is dying, and numerous passages appear on the surface of the earth around the plant, most likely the reason is the defeat of the mole cricket.
Control measures
Set up mole cricket traps in the ground. For example, pits with manure or slate shelters, where the insect will crawl to warm itself and lay eggs. Mole crickets collected in one place will be easy to destroy. Late autumn you need to dig deep into the soil to destroy the overwintering stages of the pest.
Khrushchev (chafer beetle larva)
Like the mole cricket, the mole cricket larva eats the underground parts of the flower, which leads to its death.
Signs
White fleshy larvae are visible in the ground. When damaged, the plant dies.
Control measures
Dig the soil deeply before planting and select beetle larvae from it manually.
This pest lays eggs on the soil surface in May-June. The eggs hatch into young individuals that burrow into the bulb, causing it to rot.
Signs
At the end of spring - beginning of summer, small black flies begin to circle around the lilies, hovering in flight and making a characteristic gurgling sound. If you notice these pests, they have most likely already laid their larvae in the soil.
Control measures
Spray the plants with a 0.2% solution of Karbofos or another insecticide (Inta-Vir, etc.). In the fall, dig up the ground and mulch with peat. Before planting, dust the bulbs with Bazudin.
To reduce the number of pests, lily plantings should be kept clean, maintain normal soil moisture, remove plant debris, destroy pests, and spray plants with insecticides.
We hope that now, if your lilies suddenly begin to “mope,” you can easily determine the cause of their ill health, clearly identify the pest or disease, and “declare war on them” in time. Take care of your plants properly and don't let them get sick.
Caring for lilies after flowering consists of cutting them and covering them for the winter or digging up the bulbs and storing them properly. At the beginning of autumn, an examination of the stems, leaves and bulbs is carried out.
When diseases are detected, flowers are treated. To prevent the occurrence of diseases, the soil is enriched with fertilizers and regular feeding lilies.
At the end of summer, lilies, in their natural way of life, fade. The stem and leaves turn yellow and fall off, and some of the roots also die. Garden lilies need to prepare for winter.
Frost-resistant lilies are cut 15 cm from the root, sprinkled with a small layer of peat (up to 10 cm), and covered with fallen leaves in the fall. Oriental lily hybrids do not tolerate excess moisture. To avoid getting the bulbs and roots wet during the spring snow melt, the plantings are covered with plastic film.
Tubular and Orléans hybrids, some other lilies cannot be tolerated cold winter V middle lane. Their bulbs need to be dug up. All lilies require replanting every 3-5 years. Their tubers also need to be dug up and stored.
Once the lilies are dug up, they should not be left in the sun. The bulbs are immediately removed to a cool place. If the roots of the bulb dry out, the flower will not sprout when planted. If the roots lie under sun rays a short time, you need to cover them with wet rags and wait a while until they absorb the water.
Bulbs with roots removed from the ground should be thoroughly washed and treated in a 0.2% solution of foundationazole. To store the bulbs, you need to choose a container, often a plastic bag with perforations. The bulbs are wrapped in it without tying it and stored all winter at a temperature of 5°C.
Treatment and prevention of lilies from diseases and pests after flowering
Lilies, like other flowers, are susceptible to various diseases. Caring for lilies after flowering includes curing them from dangerous diseases that the flower could have contracted in the summer or early autumn. While the lily is growing in the garden, the presence of ill health can only be indicated by external manifestations diseases.
If you notice strange pigmentation or any damage to the stem, leaves or flowers, bulbs of any variety of lilies will not be left in the ground by autumn. Depending on the symptoms of the disease, after flowering, and sometimes without waiting for its end, treatment measures are carried out.
Diseases of lilies that need to be treated after flowering:
Botrytis - gray mold.
Fusarium is a bacterial soft rot.
Mosaic is a viral disease.
Botrytis - gray mold
The appearance of barely noticeable spots of a yellow tint, spreading along the bottom of the sheets, is replaced by distinctly bright gray spots, fluffy in texture. They gradually grow and cover the leaves completely, soon moving onto the stems and flower heads.
Wet weather allows fungal spores to completely cover all parts of the lilies. As a result, the entire above-ground part of the plant is affected. The leaves and stem become covered with brown spots and then fall off.
Prevention of gray rot carried out immediately after the lilies bloom.
The fungus multiplies especially actively in humid environments.
The most favorable environment is wet plants that do not have time to dry before night and moist, cool air after rain. The wind easily carries the spores of fungi that cause gray rot.
From strong wind or hypothermia, lilies become stressed, their immunoresistance is reduced, and as a result, the leaves are easily affected by botrytis.
Heavy rainfall begins in the fall, at a time when lilies are already fading. Many lilies are not dug out of the ground every year. Even when digging, you need to let the lilies stand for a while without flowers, so that the bulb gets stronger before the next planting. You can protect lilies from fungus after flowering by adhering to traditional preventive methods.
Before the onset of the rainy season, you need to install a wooden or metal carcass- just drive four pegs along the edges of the lily beds. Stretch plastic film over the pegs with a slight slope in one direction. Precipitation will not accumulate on the flowers and will not provoke the appearance of fungus. Do not use agrofibre as a cover; it allows water to pass through well. If necessary, water the lilies yourself only at the root in the morning.
If the plants are already sick, you need to immediately cut off the affected parts of the plant or its entire above-ground part. Affected vegetation must be burned or disposed of in another way. The main thing is that the fungus, whose spores are always present on affected plants, does not get into the ground. It will wait out the winter in the ground, move to newly planted plants and destroy new sprouts of lilies or other plantings.
In case of disease, a white, saliva-like mass will form on the tubers and roots. If left untreated, the aboveground and underground parts of the plant become covered with sclerotia. Such plants can be saved from disease. It is necessary to thoroughly rinse the tubers with roots with running water and soak them in a suspension of foundationol (0.5%) or TMTD pesticides (1%) for 20-30 minutes.
Fusarium - bacterial soft rot
If the bulbs are slightly damaged or infection is not yet visible, but there is suspicion of its presence, sprinkle the bulbs with sulfur and charcoal in a 1:1 ratio.
Soft rot occurs when there is damage to the bulb. Most often it occurs from improper storage. The best prevention- careful handling when digging and packing the bulbs, storage in optimal temperature. A lily gets fusarium if it is not thoroughly dried after digging.
Bulbs and roots rot from heavy rainfall. Methods for protecting bulbs from high humidity on the street - the construction of a frame covered with plastic film. Some lily hybrids, for example Asiatic and LA hybrids, are dug up in the second ten days of August, since they are very difficult to preserve from moisture.
Mosaic
Along the edges of lily leaves, oval, elongated, white, sometimes black spots with white streaks appear. Leaves and flowers grow skewed, crooked, flowers and buds have irregular shape, sometimes white streaks form on them. Soon the entire above-ground part of the flower rots and dies. The disease is caused by aphids, mites and viruses entering the lily juice into the stem through pruning shears.
There is no cure for this disease, but preventive precautions must be taken. The stem of a lily is always cut off before wintering, regardless of whether the bulb and roots are removed. To trim the stem, you need to use pruners with replaceable metal blades, which must be changed after cutting each flower and disinfected in alcohol or boiling water.
Slightly but noticeably drooping, flaccid plants, even without characteristic spots on the leaves, may already be infected with a viral disease. At the slightest suspicion, you need to examine the plant very carefully; if none of the symptoms are detected, it is advisable to dig up the bulb and soak it in phytosporin (4 drops per 200 ml).
Careful plant prevention is necessary, as mites and aphids multiply very quickly. In spring they quickly fly from one flower to another. Over the summer, more than half of all plants can become infected with a viral disease.
Feeding and fertilizers for home lilies
The application of mineral fertilizers is beneficial for lilies. In spring, fertilizers with the addition of nitrogen are used:
ammonium nitrate 1 tsp. per 1 m²;
nitroammophoska 1 Matchbox on a bucket of water.
Liquid complex fertilizers - suspensions or solutions containing 1-3 active ingredients. For example, superphosphate - 20 g per 10 liters of water; liquid potassium fertilizer - 15-20 g of potassium chloride or potassium salt per 10 liters of water, in dry form 15-25 g per 1 m².
In summer it is recommended:
wood ash 5-6 times per season;
mullein infusion.
Nitrogen-free foods are useful in autumn mineral fertilizers
from the solution, mix 30-40g of superphosphate with 15-20g of potassium salt.
Organic fertilizers for lilies are contraindicated. They do not bring any benefits, but they cause the development of fungal diseases.
As a preventive measure against diseases, home lilies should be sprayed with Bordeaux mixture (1%) every 3 years.
Lilies are prepared for winter in two ways. Frost-resistant hybrids are cut, left in the ground and carefully covered with peat, leaves, and sometimes film. Lilies that cannot tolerate frost, require replanting, or are sick are also pruned and dug up. Each dug up bulb is carefully examined, if symptoms of the disease are detected, treatment is carried out, and if necessary, burned. Bulbs must be handled with care to keep the planting material in good condition.
For domestic lilies, you need to regularly introduce complementary foods and add fertilizers to the soil.
Proper care of lilies will help preserve beautiful flowers in your garden and home for a long time.
Beauty lovers appreciated the elegant grace of lilies even before the beginning of our era. Since then it has become a permanent decoration flower arrangements and complementing holiday outfits. Today, the lily also continues to evoke admiration and the lack of blue tint in its color scheme is not considered a disadvantage at all. Like other bulbous flowers, it is also loved for its simple planting method and undemanding care, often forgetting about the peculiarities of agricultural technology for such flowers. Meanwhile, it is the observance of the conditions for planting and caring for lilies that makes it possible to obtain full, healthy flowering from them.
The probability of lily survival on garden plot and its resistance to disease directly depends on the geographical origin of the plant (European, Caucasian, Asian or North American). It is obvious that non-winter-hardy species from tropical areas (long-flowered, Japanese, Philippine) in northern climates will find it difficult to survive frosts and even if sheltered for the winter they will quickly die due to insufficient air humidity. In the southern conditions of the hot coastal climate, lilies of East Asian origin (Daurian, tiger and their hybrids) will develop poorly. The acidity of the soil for certain species is also related to the origin of the plants: slightly acidified soil is optimal for Asian species and hybrids, and slightly alkaline or neutral soil is optimal for European, Caucasian and North American ones. A lily planted in unsuitable agroclimatic conditions grows weakened, is more often affected by pathogenic fungi and insect pests, suffers longer and dies quickly.
On unsuitable highly alkaline soils, lilies develop chlorosis: appear on the leaves between the veins yellow spots. This phenomenon can also be observed during periods of frequent rains, when most of the microelements are washed out of the soil. When chlorosis occurs, it is recommended to apply iron sulfate under the lilies until the healthy color of the plants is completely restored, or add peat and coniferous sawdust to the soil to acidify.
Defeat of lilies spring frosts also looks like a manifestation of the disease: the outer layer of cells on young leaves peels off, they thicken, bend and become covered with blisters. Frozen lilies do not die, but also do not form buds in this year. As a preventive measure against freezing, it is recommended to carry out high hilling of plants with soil in case of danger of return frosts.
Cases are not diseases " fallen asleep bulbs" and "flattened thickened stem." In the first case, a practically healthy bulb may not show signs of development for a whole year, and in the second case, in a lily with sufficient good care Several shoots grow together and the plant looks unnatural. Such disorders, however, can be observed in lilies only for one year; subsequently they usually develop.
In dense plantings and with prolonged (more than 3 - 5 years) cultivation of lilies in one place, the likelihood of damage increases fungal diseases. The most famous of them are:
Botris (gray rot). The disease affects the leaves, stems and buds of lilies in damp, cool weather and when improper watering when the moisture on them does not have time to dry before night. Brown spots that appear on the lower leaves quickly grow and merge into large areas of brown mucous tissue covered with a gray coating. The death of lily stems infected with Botrys can occur in a matter of days, but timely protective measures make it possible to preserve the bulbs and grow them into next year healthy plants. The fungus overwinters on affected plant debris and, with severe damage, in bulbs.
Ways to fight. For prevention purposes, it is recommended:
Bulbs before planting 30 - 60 min. pickle in a suspension of foundationazole (0.5%) or TMTD (1%);
- change the place of planting lilies every 3 - 5 years;
- maintain sparse plantings;
- water at the roots and only in the morning.
During a forced landing in the same place upper layer soils are partially replaced or the soil is treated with fungicides (“Oksikhom”, “Khom”). In early spring, preventive spraying of lilies with solutions is carried out on seedlings. copper sulfate(0.5%), Bordeaux mixture (1%) or copper oxychloride (0.3%). If a disease is detected, spraying is carried out every 10 days, alternating preparations; the affected parts of the plants are removed from the site and burned. During the rainy season, mass death of flowers can be prevented by constructing a protective film canopy over the lilies.
Fusarium. The disease affects lily bulbs in places of mechanical damage and manifests itself most noticeably during storage: yellow-brown spots form in the places where scales are attached, soft areas of rot grow and the bulb disintegrates. Externally, the onset of damage to a lily by fusarium can be determined by the yellowing and drying of the lower leaves on the stems. Active spread of the disease is observed in damp, hot weather. Fungal spores persist in the soil for about 3 years.
Ways to fight. Lightly affected bulbs are freed from affected scales and etched with foundation (0.2%) for 30 - 40 minutes. and planted in a new place; severely affected ones are removed from the site and destroyed. The soil before planting (2 - 3 weeks before) is disinfected with formaldehyde (250 ml of a 40% solution is used per 10 liters of water to treat 1 cubic meter of soil). Soil cultivation and early spring spraying with foundationazole (0.1%), euparene (0.2%), and bavistin (0.05%) are carried out with precautions, since the drugs are toxic.
Rust. The disease affects the leaves, stems and bulbs of lilies, in which fungal spores can overwinter. Small colorless spots that appear on the leaves gradually grow and turn yellow - fungal spores form in them. The leaves and stems dry out, but dark brown growths remain on them, from which spores are released in the spring and infect new plants.
Ways to fight. For prevention purposes, frequent potassium-phosphorus feeding of lilies and pre-planting treatment of bulbs are recommended. On lightly infected plants, the affected parts should be removed and destroyed; in case of severe infection, the lilies should be removed from the area along with the bulbs. In early spring, preventive spraying is carried out on the seedlings (Bordeaux mixture, copper oxychloride), and if signs of the disease are detected - with dithane M-45 (1%), polycarbacin (0.3%), zineb (0.5%) with an adhesive.
Sclerotial rot. The first sign of the disease is uneven sprouting of lilies in the spring. When checking bulbs that are lagging in growth, you can find a thick white felt coating at the neck or on the bottom. Subsequently, the disease leads to damage and death of roots and developing leaves. Conditions of high humidity at temperatures up to 13 °C are favorable for the fungus. As the temperature rises, the active spread of the disease stops.
Ways to fight. The methods of combating botrys and fusarium are similar: compliance with the recommended planting density, pre-planting treatment of the bulbs and disinfection of the soil before planting. Diseased plants along with the soil should be removed, and foci of infection should be covered with ash or bleach. It is not recommended to plant lilies after bulbous ones, which are also susceptible to sclerotial rot (narcissus, tulips, hyacinths, gladioli).
Root rot. The disease affects the roots of the bulbs; they become covered with small brown spots. Plants are stunted and lose buds. The onset of the disease can be determined by the yellowing of the tops of the leaves, which gradually leads to drying out of the entire stem.
Ways to fight:
Careful selection planting material;
- mandatory disinfection of the soil with a solution of colloidal sulfur (0.4%) and dressing of the bulbs (Fundazol, TMTD) before planting;
- removal of affected parts of plants from the site and their destruction.
Bacterial (soft) rot. It affects plants in early spring: oval brown spots appear on the leaves, which grow and cause rotting and falling of leaves and peduncles. During storage, rotting depressed spots with an unpleasant odor are found on the bulbs.
Ways to fight:
Inspection and destruction of infected planting material during storage;
- pre-planting treatment of bulbs and soil;
- preventive spraying in early spring, and if a disease is detected, spray with fungicides every 10 days.
By carrying out preventive measures (disinfection of storage, selection and processing of planting material, reducing soil moisture, changing sites, thinning plantings), you can successfully fight fungal diseases, which cannot be said about viral diseases. Unfortunately, viral diseases are difficult to diagnose and practically untreatable. They are spread by insect pests and sap through undisinfected garden tools. Viral diseases manifest themselves in different ways: the color and shape of flowers change, leaves curl, stems become bent, plants look depressed and their decorative qualities are getting worse. Lilies affected by viruses are dug up with bulbs as quickly as possible and destroyed outside the site, otherwise the spread of the disease may lead to the loss of all specimens. Most common viral diseases are:
Variegation virus. The disease can be transmitted from tulips. A sign of damage is the spotted color of the flowers, which is not typical for the variety. The disease is transmitted by aphids and garden tools.
Rosette disease. Caused by a complex of viruses. In the affected lily, the growth of flowering shoots is sharply delayed, the stem is flattened and deformed, the leaves become curved and chlorotic, the plant gradually withers and stops growing. The carrier is aphids.
Mosaic. Signs of the disease are often confused with the symptoms of botrys: pale gray oblong stripes and spots appear on the leaves. An infected lily may bloom for several years and produce healthy, virus-free seeds, but over time it will still die. The disease is transmitted by aphids and garden tools.
Ways to fight. For the purpose of prevention against viral diseases You should regularly inspect lilies and remove specimens with suspicious changes in the color of flowers or leaves. For cutting, it is recommended to use a set of blades (one blade per inflorescence), which is disinfected in boiling water or alcohol immediately after cutting. To combat disease vectors (aphids), lilies should be periodically sprayed with karbofos (0.3%) or ragor (0.2%).