Does the putty stick to the paint? Primer for oil paint for putty. Is it possible to putty over paint?

When planning overhaul in an apartment or house, as well as when moving into a new home that does not have finishing, you will definitely have to decide on putting the walls in order. Of course, you can invite a team of builders and pay them a decent sum, sometimes without even having a guarantee that the work was done efficiently. However, in order to be sure that all the finishing layers applied to the walls will not fall off in a couple of weeks, it is better to carry out all the construction processes on your own, naturally, having studied their technology in advance.

- not such a simple task as it seems at first glance. It is possible to level the walls to perfection only after you develop skill in the process of applying the compounds to the surface. Therefore, before starting such work, after reading the instructions, it is recommended to practice on small areas of the wall that are not in plain sight, for example, in places that are guaranteed to be covered by large furniture

Which putty should I buy?

Puttying walls should not be considered a secondary process that can be skipped. If it is not carried out efficiently, then all surface irregularities will appear through any finishing coating, be it wallpaper, decorative plaster or painting.

Puttying is usually the final process in preparing walls for any decorative coating. The main task is to achieve an almost perfectly flat and smooth surface by using a thin layer of putty on the surface of the walls, filling existing flaws and eliminating unevenness. To obtain the desired result, two types are used - starting and finishing.

The composition of the starting putty includes a mixture of dry coarse materials. This solution is used to pre-treat the wall, leveling out the most serious defects and at the same time creating a good base for applying the finishing layer.

The finishing mixture is made from a fine powder, most often gypsum. Subject to technology preparation of the composition, timing and correctness of its application, it is possible to make the surface of the walls of the room perfectly smooth.

Sometimes, to tidy up walls, universal mixtures are used, which are suitable for both initial, rough leveling and finishing, that is, one composition is applied in several layers.

The putty can be purchased dry or ready-to-use. Ready-made compositions, of course, are easy to use - they are produced on oil-adhesive, drying oil, latex, polymer and other bases. But they did not gain much popularity among private masters due to their rather high cost, not accessible to everyone.

But dry putty mixtures are available for sale in a wide variety, so much so that you can even get confused at first. Some parameters of putties are summarized in the table presented to the reader. You should get acquainted with each composition in more detail directly when choosing, reading the instructions included with each package.

Name indicator	Established standards for brands
	LS 10/90	LS 35/65	LS 50/50	LS 65/35	Fine Coat 50/50	Termonite	For blocks
Recommended thickness in mm	3÷5	5÷15	5÷15	5÷15	3÷10	2÷10	3÷10
Recommended water consumption in l/25 kg	3.5÷4	3.5÷4	3.5÷4	3.5÷4	4÷5	5.5÷6	6÷7
Ultimate compressive strength, MPa, not less	16	8	4	2	4	6	20
Ultimate bending strength, MPa, not less	2	2	1	1	1	3	3
Adhesion (adhesion) to the base, MPa, not less	0.5	0.4	0.3	0.3	0.3	1	0.5
Medium density. solution kg/m3	1900	1900	1900	1900	1900	1900	1900
RN	12÷13	12÷13	12÷13	12÷13	12÷13	12÷13	12÷13
Notes:
LS 10/90 belongs to the category of adhesive compounds;
LS 35/65, 50/50, 65/35 and block putty – leveling compounds;
“Fine Coat 50/50” and “Termonite” - finishing compounds

When purchasing putty, you need to consider and study its packaging, paying attention not only to its characteristics, but also to the expiration date. If the material is expired, then you should not take it, since in this case the money will be thrown away. You should not buy putty mixture stored in high humidity, even if its expiration date has not yet expired. Wet packaging or packaging with obvious stains of dampness is a sure sign of a spoiled mixture.

It is recommended to purchase putty compositions for the starting and finishing layers made by the same company, as they provide good mutual adhesion and compatibility, which will allow you to obtain a better result.

Prices for popular types of putty

Putties

Materials and tools

It is very important to prepare well for work so as not to be distracted during the process due to a lack of any material or necessary tool.

So, for work you will need:

Starting and finishing putty mixtures.
Primer composition.
A plastic container for mixing putty, if it is purchased dry.
Special paint bath for working with primer.
Construction roller and two brushes - wide and narrow. They are necessary for applying primer in hard-to-reach places, such as corners or behind radiators.
Spatulas:

- wide 500 ÷ 600 mm or even 700 ÷ 800 mm - for applying the finishing layer of putty;

- narrow 100 ÷ 150 mm - for taking putty from a container and applying it to a large spatula, as well as for leveling the composition in corners.

- corner - for leveling corners when filling them.

Rule for controlling the evenness of the wall.
Drill and mixer attachment for mixing the mass.
An electric sander (vibrating or eccentric) or a hand float for rubbing and sanding the applied putty.
A spotlight or hand-held light to identify poorly aligned areas on a wall.
Construction knife.

Preparing walls for puttying

Before applying putty, the wall must be carefully prepared. If it remains on it old plaster or pieces of wallpaper, they must be removed. You will also have to clean the wall of oil or water-based paint.

After removing the old coating, cracks or unevenness may appear on the wall. To ensure that the putty lays flat and does not crack after drying along the cracks, it is necessary to seal them.

— Before sealing detected cracks, they must be expanded as deep into the wall as possible so that they do not repeat their direction after applying the putty.

— After expansion, the crack is cleaned of dust and pieces of plaster - this process can be carried out using a small brush.

— Starting putty or sealant is applied to the dried crack. Repair mixture you need to press it as deep as possible into the crack, and level it from above to the level of the wall surface.

— After the putty or sealant has dried, you need to go over the sealed crack with a float to finally level it with the wall.

If the wall is , then all its joints should be glued with fiberglass mesh, on top of which a thin layer of putty is applied. Holes from recessed self-tapping screw heads, which drywall is fixed to the wall or sheathing, must also be filled with a putty mixture, otherwise rust from them will appear through any decorative finish.

After the sealing joints have dried, they proceed to applying a primer with antiseptic properties to the walls. This layer will add additional strength to the surface, increase the adhesion of materials and extend the service life of the finish.

It is poured into a special tray, from which it is easy to take it onto a roller (brush) for application to the wall surface. It is very important to thoroughly treat all hard-to-reach places, otherwise it is from there that the putty may subsequently begin to peel off.

The primer applied to the walls must dry well.

Prices for different types of primer

Primer

Preparation of putty

If you purchase a dry mixture, then it must be prepared correctly, as it should be uniform in consistency and resemble thick sour cream.

To mix the mixture, a regular plastic bucket filled with water is suitable. room temperature. Typically, a bag of putty weighing 25 kg requires 9.5 ÷ 10 liters of water, but to find out for sure, be sure to read the instructions before opening the bag with the mixture.

If the selected mixture is made on a gypsum basis, you should not knead it too much, since its “life” is very limited. The time for using the mixed solution can also be found in the instructions for its preparation.
After pouring the powder into the water, the mixture is mixed using a mixer attachment mounted in the drill chuck.

After the first portion of the mixed solution is used, the bucket and mixer must be rinsed thoroughly, otherwise the next solution may end up with solid inclusions left over from the first batch. It is clear that this operation is repeated constantly throughout the entire work.

Applying starting putty

The starting putty is applied to the primed surface with a wide spatula, onto which the mixture is applied for convenience and evenly distributed with a small spatula.

from the corner and down up smooth movements without force pressing on the spatula, which should be held at approximately a 45 degree angle. It is this position that will help to apply the putty evenly, without leaving marks on it from the corners of the tool.

Putty strips are applied to the surface with an overlap, that is, the strokes should overlap each other by 70 ÷ 80 mm.

After applying putty to a certain area, using the rule, its evenness is checked. As a rule, carefully, without pressure, pass over the putty surface. The flat edge of the tool should collect the excess putty mixture and reveal obvious depressions. The flaws will be especially visible if the wall is illuminated with a light bulb in such a way as to create a moving shadow.

If differences are detected, you should once again go over the surface of the wall with a wide spatula to level them out. This can be done while the putty on the wall is still wet.

When applying the starting layer, you need Special attention pay attention to the corners, since they are the ones that are constantly “ weak point"When leveling walls. Therefore, very often a special spatula in the shape of a right angle is used to level these difficult-to-plaster areas.

One of the most difficult techniques is aligning corners

After applying the starting layer, the walls are rarely perfectly smooth, although this should be strived for. Small errors are allowed, which can be covered by the finishing layer.
After completing the application of the starting layer on all the walls of the room, you need to wait for it to dry - only then proceed to the first grout. Using an electric sander or a hand grater with sandpaper or an abrasive mesh attached to it, all unevenness from the coarse-grained starting mixture is removed from the surface of the walls. In addition, the grout will be able to smooth out small flaws left by the corners of the working surface of the spatula.

Grouting is carried out using movements along a spiral trajectory. You must be careful and try not to miss a single centimeter of the putty surface.

If, after grouting, irregularities deeper than 2.5 ÷ 3 mm are found on the illuminated wall, then a second layer of the same mixture is applied to the first starting layer. It can be applied to the entire surface or only to individual areas where defects were found.

Final layer of putty

The finishing layer of putty is applied after the starting one has completely dried, according to the same principle - that is, from the corners and down up.

The mixture is also applied with a small spatula to a large one, distributed along its edge, and applied to the wall with clear movements with slight pressure. The layer of the finishing mixture should not be thicker than two millimeters, and the remaining excess putty and lines from the edges of the spatula are carefully stretched and smoothed by passing over them again.

To see all defects at once, it is recommended to create a combined lighting, coming from several light sources, or use a mobile light bulb on a wire so that you can bring it to the wall to be leveled from different sides. When creating such lighting, falling dynamic shadows will immediately reveal insufficiently aligned areas of the wall.
The finishing putty is applied in two layers. The second one is applied after the first one has completely dried.
When the second layer dries, it is rubbed in the same way as the starting one, using a grater or a special power tool with fine-grained sandpaper or abrasive (start with 200 grit and usually end with 400). If surface defects are detected, it is permissible to apply another finishing layer to individual areas.
It is very necessary to seal and sand the corners of the room, as the flaws will be especially noticeable there. To remove them, two spatulas are used - an angled one and a rubber one. The first one immediately forms the corner, and the second one gently smoothes out the excess putty.

After completing the filling and grouting work, the walls are covered with one or two more layers of primer, and only after that can decorative finishing be applied.

If the walls are planned to be leveled, then the process of applying putty must be approached with special care, since the surface must be leveled to perfection. If the room is decorated with wallpaper, then they are to some extent able to hide small defects, but when painting, the flaws, on the contrary, will appear - this must be foreseen and the choice of decorative coating must be decided in advance.

After completing all the work on leveling the walls with putty, all the tools that were used for the process must be thoroughly cleaned, rinsed and dried, since they will definitely be needed to tidy up other areas of the apartment.

To achieve the desired result when leveling the surface of walls with putty, it is recommended to follow some rules and recommendations. Some have already been mentioned in the article, but it makes sense to highlight them separately in the form of a final summary:

If you do not have sufficient experience in this type of work, you should not purchase large quantities of materials. To try whether you can carry out this work yourself, you can purchase a small amount of putty by weight, learn how to prepare the solution and try it small area walls.

Having carried out such an experiment, it will be possible to immediately understand whether it is possible to carry out puttying of large surfaces, or whether it is still worth entrusting the work to professionals.

Work on applying and leveling the putty should be carried out under lighting from several lighting fixtures installed at different ends of the room.
The starting putty is applied with a thickness of no more than 4 ÷ 5 mm, since layers that are thicker can peel off, and there is also a high risk of cracks appearing on them.
Before applying each subsequent layer, you need to make sure that the previous one is completely dry. The drying period of the putty directly depends on the thickness of the applied layer, the level of humidity and temperature in the room.
It is prohibited to speed up the drying of putty walls by installing heating devices or creating a draft in the room, as these influences can lead to peeling of the applied composition from the walls.
After applying each layer, be sure to check all surfaces using the rule, making marks of places that require additional adjustments.
Get perfect straight corners This is only possible if a special spatula is used to level them.

And finally, a few words about precautions when carrying out such construction and finishing work:

To carry out puttying of walls and ceilings, it is necessary to prepare not only tools and material, but also suitable clothing and equipment. So, when working with putties, plasters, primers, and paints, it is imperative to protect your hair and skin.

A scarf is usually tied over the head, and as a work uniform you can use old clothes that cover the body as much as possible, which you don’t mind getting dirty. It is recommended to protect your hands with thick rubber gloves.

When carrying out troweling work, it is necessary to protect the respiratory tract and eyes, since a lot of fine dust will fly. To do this, you need to purchase a respirator and special glasses at a hardware store.
If the walls in the room are high, you need to take care of a reliable, stable staircase or build trestles for this. It is preferable to have the latter, since they allow you to cover a large finishing area at once, and they do not have to be rearranged often.

And in conclusion, according to the tradition of our portal - a visual video lesson on leveling walls with putty:

Video: first steps in working with putty mixtures

It should be noted that leveling walls is, to some extent, even a creative process, but it is quite labor-intensive. Therefore, if there is no predisposition to such activities, then it is better not to take on it, but to entrust the implementation to professional plasterers. But if you have a great desire to try your hand and even save money, then it’s worth taking the risk and doing everything yourself.

Any Finishing work imply surface preparation. This is especially important when it comes to repairs. It is then that a situation arises in which you have to remove the old coating from the walls. Most often this is wallpaper or various paints and varnishes.

If everything is clear with the first option, then the second one causes a lot of difficulties. It is not always possible to completely remove a layer of paint, then a reasonable question arises: is it possible to putty over paint?

How to putty on painted walls.

Puttying walls over paint without consequences. My affiliate http://join.air.io/Doktor_Khlus.

This question is not idle. How to apply correctly decorative putty on the walls? The fact is that it is not always possible to remove the entire painted layer. There are always mistakes left. They can be removed, but then you will have to remove part of the coating.

And this, in turn, leads to additional costs. And in general, will the putty layer stick then?

Preliminary surface study

Surfaces found in houses and apartments are usually coated with oil-based, water-based paints and enamels. Complete removal of such coating is not always necessary. The old layer can stick very well and not delaminate. Thus, before taking drastic measures, you need to check whether anything should be done.

This can be understood if you resort to a simple test: run a well-wetted rag over the painted wall. What you can see:

The coating will begin to “wash off”. The marks will remain on the rag and the layers will begin to peel off. All these signs indicate one thing - water-based paint was used. It can be easily removed when exposed to water. If you put putty on it, the same thing will happen. Namely, the solution will simply fall off. The work will go down the drain. To put it simply, everything will have to be removed and redone. The worst thing is when this happens while wallpapering.
There may be another option. The surface will not react to exposure to water. This means that this is a paint based on drying oil or solvents. Such materials are not afraid of increased moisture. It's not scary to apply putty on them. Although here, not everything is so simple. The painted layer should adhere very well.

To find out the type of paint that is applied to the surface, you need to run a well-wetted sponge over it

This was the simplest test option. But before starting work, you should also study the surfaces in other ways. To do this, you need to tap the ceiling and walls to achieve peeling of the poor-quality coating. As an auxiliary tool, a special spatula is used, which was designed specifically for removing coloring materials.

One of its sides is sharpened, which allows you to pry off bubbles and peeling edges.

Removing paint

As already noted, water-based paint can be easily removed using water. After it is completely washed off, the surface needs to be thoroughly dried. The situation is different with oil solutions and enamels.

There are several options that are used to remove such compounds. This:

Mechanical method
Special tools are used to remove the coating. electrical accessories. This method requires a lot of physical strength. It leaves behind a lot of dust and dirt. For work, it is advisable to wear a respirator and safety glasses.
Chemical method
Special chemical reagents. They are applied to the painted surface. Under their influence, the layer is destroyed. Work is performed in protective clothing, gloves and goggles.
Thermal method
A construction hair dryer is used. Under the jets of hot air, the paint begins to rise. It is easy to clean.

What do you need to get in the end? It's okay if some painted areas remain. The most important thing is to ensure that there is no peeling.

Places where it will be preserved old layer, must be well cleaned and free of swelling and bulging. Then you can not be afraid and putty on the paint.

Surface preparation

Any surface needs preparation before puttying. Walls and ceilings require thorough cleaning to remove paint, paint and dirt. If there are oil stains, they are removed using soap solution. It is possible that when removing painted areas, the integrity of the coating was compromised.

That is, potholes, cracks, and chips appeared. They need to be sealed.

It is important not to forget that there is always such an important stage as priming. Is it possible not to putty plastered walls? Due to the fact that all surfaces that are coated with paint are very smooth, this process must not be forgotten. Only then can it be achieved that the adhesion of the putty mixture to the painted section of the wall will be as strong as possible.

This will also give greater strength to the old coating. Any neglect will result in the solution peeling off. That is, the putty will not adhere to the paint.

A little about primer! This solution is mentioned very often, but it is not always clear what the benefit is from it, what is its action based on? Everything is quite simple: being a liquid base, this composition penetrates into the pores of any surface.

It has filler, it's quartz sand(very fine fraction). While the liquid penetrates the pores and clogs them, thus preventing the base composition (wallpaper glue, varnish, etc.) from penetrating deeply, while reducing its consumption, the sand forms a fine roughness, which ensures high adhesion applied composition. It also strengthens the surface on which the primer is applied.

Large areas of the painted surface require additional treatment. They cannot be simply coated with primer. A layer that is too smooth and lack of pores does not allow this solution to perform its functions. To do this, resort to the following:

The wall and ceiling are covered with scratches. This can be done in any order using the edge of a spatula or knife.
The surface is simply “overwritten.” To do this, take sandpaper or an iron brush.

Putty application and final finishing

If everything was done correctly, then there will be no problems.

The following nuances are taken into account:

Any major defects will be corrected after the base paint has been removed. Then the areas that were generated in this case are simultaneously closed.
The putty must be applied in thin layers. Is it possible to apply putty if the walls are painted? You cannot make them larger than those specified by the manufacturer. Especially when working on a painted surface.
If you notice that the mixture begins to lag behind areas of the wall on which paint remains, then most likely you need to reduce the thickness of the applied layer.
After the putty is applied to the paint, everything should dry thoroughly. Then it is coated with primer again.

The putty should be applied in a thin layer and only after careful preparation of the painted wall.

There are a lot of people who are concerned about the question: is it possible to putty paint on walls? After all, sometimes it is quite difficult to clean a painted surface. The paint eats away so much that it can only be removed by destroying the structure itself.

And many argue that this is the only way out. But in reality, it's not all that scary. You can apply putty to paint, and you don’t have to be afraid of it.

True, you should remove the old layer as much as possible. It is necessary to ensure that there are no peelings or swellings. For greater adhesion, non-removed areas are covered with scratches.

The only paint from which the surface needs to be completely cleaned is a water-based paint.

Video: most practical way preparing a painted wall for applying putty for tiling

Additional Information:

To determine the type of paint applied to the surface, carry out a simple test - soak it with a sponge soaked in warm water. If it becomes covered with foam and begins to wash off, then it is water-based paint; when applying putty under the influence of moisture, it will definitely come off in layers.

If you do not want such results, then it should be completely removed from the wall surface. You can use a sponge for this purpose. The wall is moistened with warm water with a sponge and left for fifteen minutes.

After using a spatula, you special effort eliminate it.

All paint must be stripped down to the concrete. Then prime only with Ceresite (deep penetration primer). Concrete contact is not suitable, as it creates a film that can subsequently peel off along with the plaster. This has already happened more than once.

After priming, you can go over it with gypsum plaster under a spatula, then primer again, then putty in 2 layers.

When puttying dry rooms, remove old peeling paint. To remove stains of grease and dirt, wash the walls with an alkaline solution. It could be a soap composition.

For better adhesion of the putty, the paint is sanded and dust is removed. Then the surface is primed. By treating partially puttied walls with a primer, we achieve uniform porosity of various surfaces and better adhesion of finishing paint.

In damp rooms, moisture-resistant paint and putty are used.

When conducting renovation work in old premises there is a need to treat old surfaces, remove finishing or hide it. Previously, it was customary to paint walls - it was fashionable, beautiful and in the spirit of the times.

Nowadays, such wall decoration is unlikely to suit any interior design, because old cladding need to get rid of it.

Where to begin

Sometimes a layer of paint is found under the wallpaper removed from the wall, and sometimes it is the finishing coat. Further work with the surface depends on the type of paint applied. If the base is conducive to applying materials on top, you don’t have to get rid of it.

There are two criteria that decide whether it is possible to putty on top:

coating strength;
type of paint.

If there are many cracks and chips on the surface, it most likely will not hold up. If the surface looks strong enough, we move on to the second stage of testing and check the paint. To do this, moisten a small section of the wall with water at a temperature of 35-40 degrees to observe the reaction.

If foaming appears on the surface, reminiscent of soap stains, then water-based paint was applied to the wall. If there is no reaction, you are dealing with oil paint.

There is no way to work with water-based paint. The putty applied on top will quickly peel off and cause even more difficulties in subsequent removal.

If the paint is oil-based, it needs to be checked for durability of application. To do this, use a spatula to sweep over the surface, revealing all paint blisters, cracks, that is, any vulnerable spots that can peel off with a little effort.

This point is very important to carry out carefully, since the paint is subject to a serious weight load and the missed area may not be able to withstand it.

If many such areas are found, the paint is immediately removed from them with a spatula. When there are several areas of the old coating left on the wall (and sometimes several layers), evaluate how smooth the surface putty will be.

Small layers of paint with bare wall will level the concrete contact, but if there are many layers in the remaining pieces, the future surface will be uneven or will require multi-layer, and therefore expensive, preparation.

Thus, in cases where the paint is water-based, as well as when it is oil-based but does not adhere well, it must be removed for further work.

There are several removal methods. Each of them is good in its own way and removes paint equally well, so the choice is made based on the availability of the necessary devices.

The first and most difficult is the method of mechanical removal. To remove paint from the wall, you can use a spatula or sander. But working with a spatula will take a very long and painful time, and not every home has a sanding machine; in extreme cases, you can rent one from hardware stores.

A simpler method is chemical. In the same hardware stores you can find solutions for oil paint or use acetone. But for those suffering from upper respiratory tract diseases, this method is strictly contraindicated.

Secondly, after applying the solution to oil paint, it will still have to be removed with a spatula when it softens. If this method suits you, it is mandatory to use protective gloves, a respirator, as well as good ventilation of the room.

But you need to work carefully and wear thick work gloves.

Water-based paint can be removed with ordinary hot water, but it will take a long time to spread it over the surface; the process is reminiscent of washing whitewash, so it is better to use one of the methods given above.

Further puttying of the wall is carried out according to the rules for processing bare walls:

primer;
putty;
finishing coatings.

A painted wall that can withstand additional load is treated differently.

If you decide to putty over paint, the surface must be well prepared. All peeling areas must be removed and their contours sanded.

It also doesn’t hurt to go over the entire surface of the wall several times with a wire brush. Dust is then removed from the surface.

To do this, prepare a soap solution; you can use dishwashing detergent or regular soap, which will provide an alkaline environment for the solution. The entire wall is washed with this solution, followed by clean warm water.

When the wall dries, the priming stage follows. Here you should focus on the types of primer:

solutions for painted surfaces;
quartz primer;
deep penetration primer.

The first option sounds tempting, but not all manufacturers conscientiously prepare a special primer, as a result of which, in most cases, you will not achieve good adhesion.

Quartz primer is ideal for the case, but its cost is slightly higher than other types of primer. Therefore, the average price/quality ratio is a deep penetration primer. It is recommended to apply deep penetration putty on top of such a primer.

There is also an opinion that adhesion to the wall can be achieved without sophisticated primers, by applying cross-shaped notches on the wall. But this is a labor-intensive process, and the wall still cannot do without priming.

Before you begin, check the surface of the wall. The primer must be completely dry and the wall must have a flat surface. Sometimes cracks may appear that the finished putty will not tolerate. Therefore, when cracks are detected, a reinforcing mesh is used.

It will also be needed when the intended putty layer is thicker than 5 mm. If you plan to apply putty in two layers, a mesh is also necessary - it contributes to a more even application and, ultimately, a smooth surface.

Putty is applied to the paint using a wide spatula, on top of the wall or mesh, carefully coating in places where cracks are found. After processing them, a layer is applied as evenly as possible to the entire surface of the wall.

It is most convenient to move from top to bottom, but you can work differently, the main thing is to remove excess and level the layer so that it is no more than 3-4 mm. If necessary, you can add a second layer, but only when the first one has dried.

When the surface is completely dry, it is treated with sandpaper and covered with a thin primer layer. Once the primer has dried, finishing begins.

In construction practice, oil paint is most often removed with a hair dryer. Even renting it will pay off in significantly saved time, and there is no harm to the body when working with it.

Sometimes the paint needs to be removed, but in older homes it is often quite durable. In this case, concrete contact comes to the rescue.

You can also ask for such a mixture in construction stores, it has special composition, almost tightly fastening the surface, so there is nothing to worry about the adhesive properties of the lower layer of paint.

After such a primer, the wall will become rough and the putty will adhere perfectly. In addition, concrete contact can also be used when painted walls have been insulated and covered with plasterboard, as well as when working with concrete and enamel surfaces.

Conclusion

Puttying a painted surface can occur both on top of the paint and after it has been removed. If you find a water-based coating on the walls, just add soap to the water and wash the wall, although thermal and other cleaning methods are faster.

If an oil coating is detected, the mixture can be applied on top, but care must be taken to ensure adhesive properties by choosing a suitable primer.

To obtain a smooth and durable surface, materials such as quartz primer, concrete contact and reinforcing mesh are recommended before the putty layer.

You started the renovation and decided to putty the walls. But you don’t know at all where to start, what material to choose, and in general the whole process is shrouded in mystery and darkness. First, let's figure out what putty is and why it is needed.

The difference between plaster and putty

Starter plaster is a coarse powdery mixture that builders use to level walls. Before plastering, measurements are taken using a level and the degree of deviation of the wall from the ideal vertical is determined. In other words, this is done to ensure that the wall is level. The maximum thickness of the applied layer is about 5 cm. After drying, this mixture has roughness.

Putty is a powder used after plastering. Hence the name – finishing putty. It is plastic and makes the wall smooth. You can apply it in a maximum layer of 1-2 mm (and you won’t be able to do more). Finishing putty fills small irregularities in plaster, preparing it for painting or wallpaper.

Which putty is best for walls?

The putty is available both in paper bags in powder form and in the form ready mixture in plastic buckets. It is hardly possible to say which one is better, since this can only be understood through personal experience. The only difference is that the putty is ready-made and you cannot adjust its thickness.

Therefore, to begin with, it is better to use a powdered composition, and at the same time learn from your own experience how to dilute the mixture.

Depending on the composition, there are several types of putty: gypsum, cement and polymer.

Cement putty consists of sand and cement. This composition tolerates moisture well, but does not have plasticity. This means that cracks may appear over time. The surface will be rough after drying, so sanding is necessary. But it is great for outdoor work. She is not afraid of rain and snow.
Gypsum putty. If you're going to use gypsum putty, be prepared for the fact that it dries very quickly, so don't mix it too much. As it dries, there will be a stone in the bucket instead of putty.
Polymer putty has high elasticity and stretches well. It can be used for both outdoor and interior work. Using this composition you can achieve a perfectly smooth surface, but it is not cheap.

When choosing putty, it is important to consider what will be on the walls. Gypsum-based putty consists of many small grains that are visible after the surface has dried. Also, you can see characteristic stains due to certain properties of gypsum. Gypsum putty comes in beige, gray and even pink. If you try to paint it, for example, white, you will have to apply several layers. This type of putty is difficult to paint over light colors. But it will fit perfectly under wallpaper.

Glue applied to the wall helps soak the composition. Because of this, the wallpaper may not stick well to the wall and stick in pieces. Wet wallpaper is problematic to trim from the bottom and top. Gypsum putty is not saturated with moisture as much as polymer putty. And for painting it is better to use polymer putty. As a rule, she white, soft consistency and looks perfectly smooth on the wall.

Is it possible to putty the walls yourself?

Puttying walls with your own hands is possible, but requires some practice. The first knowledge can be gained by watching a video or watching how specialists do it. Of course, at first it won't work out very well. But there is a silver lining: you can always count on polishing. Therefore, if it does not immediately turn out perfectly smooth, stripes and stains form, sandpaper will hide these defects.

What tools will you need?

In order not to run around looking for the necessary things in the midst of work, it is better to prepare everything right away.

drill with mixer;
plastic containers;
latex gloves;
roller with a long handle;
narrow spatula (5-7 cm);
wide spatula (25-35 cm);
serpyanka;
respirator;
stepladder (or table);
work clothes;
newspapers, rags, polyethylene.

If plaster is applied to the walls, then it is better to use a brush for priming. Since the roller will not be able to treat the surface effectively enough. We choose the width of the spatula ourselves. The standard width is 35 cm, but for a beginner it is better to use a narrower one, as it is easier for them to work. Drill mixer – special nozzle for stirring the composition. It comes in different shapes, it doesn’t really matter. Ideally, you can use a large bucket of water-based paint as a container. It does not split under the influence of a drill.

Preparing walls for finishing putty

First you need to clear the room of furniture. What you can bear, bear it. Dust from this process cannot be avoided. The floor must be covered with polyethylene or newspapers. The more surface you cover, the better.

Why prime the walls?

If the room was too dusty, clean the walls with a wet broom. In order for the putty to stick well to the walls, they must first be primed. Primer is a special liquid. After it dries, a microfilm of adhesive composition. The walls are completely degreased, cleaned and dust-free, so the putty will not fall off in the future. Pour primer into plastic container and dilute with water. The concentration level is indicated on the bottle. Next, use a roller with a long handle to prime the walls. This process is similar to ordinary painting, the main thing is to ensure that the walls are completely primed. It’s easy to guess from the wet stains on the wall.

Some moments

Putting walls under wallpaper with your own hands is easier than painting. Wallpaper will hide small defects and imperfections. But you need to make sure that there is no previous wallpaper left on the wall (if there was any). Because under the influence of the primer they will get wet and stick to the putty.

The easiest way is to putty and prime gypsum boards (plasterboard sheets). There are no special recommendations for this, just move the roller from top to bottom. Whatever the surface, it is better to prime separately with a narrow brush near the ceiling, floor and sides, since the roller in these places does not reach all the way.

Puttying walls after plastering is a more labor-intensive process. Therefore, it is necessary to prime very well. To do this, it is better to use a brush to fill all the microcracks and depressions.

Which primer to choose

The primer is used to create an adhesive layer on the surface, which promotes favorable adhesion of the composition to the wall. When choosing a primer, you need to pay attention to the room. If it is damp, it is better to choose a primer with an antibacterial effect that prevents the formation of mold.

Alkyd primer has powerful properties, but does not penetrate into the material. It should not be used for plaster, putty and plasterboard. It is suitable for wood and iron because it has an anti-corrosion effect. In addition, such a primer creates a film on the treated surface, which is why the material does not breathe.
Latex primer is suitable for almost any surface. This perfect option in the case of plaster and crumbling surfaces. It is very moisture resistant, waterproof and elastic. But it has such properties due to the addition of synthetic substances to it, so it is not suitable for connoisseurs of environmentally friendly products.
Acrylic primer is best for home use. It does not have a strong odor, dries quickly and is easy to use. Thick composition diluted with water to the desired consistency and applied to the wall. This primer can be used on any surface. And its price will pleasantly surprise you.
A deep penetration primer is used in cases where the surface is loose, loose and not solid enough. It could be old plaster, wood, or just gypsum board with fallen corners. This primer penetrates deep into the material, giving it strength and water resistance, which is especially important in wet rooms.

Additional preparation of gypsum boards for primer

The joints between plasterboard sheets contain cracks and recesses. To eliminate unevenness in these places, it is better to use plaster. Thanks to its coarser composition, it will level the surface faster. But it’s not enough to just use a spatula. After the plaster dries, a crack forms at the joint site, since there is nothing for the composition to stick to in the area of the crack. To prevent this from happening, we use a serpyanka. Serpyanka is a mesh tape in a roll, similar to gauze. It comes in different widths and has a sticky surface on one side, making it easy to stick to joints. After gluing the serpyanka, apply a layer of plaster from bottom to top. We make sure that it does not move and, if necessary, correct it. Drying time 2-3 hours. After this, we remove small rocky particles with sandpaper. The surface is now ready for priming.

Final wall putty. Technology

After the primer has dried, the surface is ready to apply the finishing putty. To prepare the composition, take a plastic bucket and pour a small amount of water into it, less than half. To begin with, it’s better to make a little composition to fill your hand. Then pour a little putty there, while stirring with a mixer. The consistency should be slightly less liquid than thick sour cream. We achieve uniformity of the composition, the complete absence of lumps, otherwise balls of dry powder will form on the wall. The mixture should not roll off the spatula. If this happens, it means it is too watery. It is very difficult to work with such a composition.

We proceed directly to puttying. We have two spatulas in our hands: large and small. Please note: the spatula is not absolutely even. It is curved more in one direction than in the other. It is necessary to define the “rounded” side. If you putty another one, stripes will remain on the surface.

Speaking about spatulas, it is worth noting that you need to choose stainless materials. Otherwise, during subsequent puttying, rusty stains will remain on the wall. We take a little mixture onto a small spatula and transfer it to a large one, distributing it evenly over the entire surface. Starting from the window, we begin to putty the wall, creating a non-transparent layer of 1-2 mm. If you make the layer too thick, it will be more difficult to smooth out and cracks may form as it dries. When working with plasterboard, the direction of movement of the spatula does not matter, since the surface is smooth. On a plastered wall, dried large particles have their own direction. Therefore, we simply repeat it when puttingty. This will become clear as you work.

Important: the uniformity and smoothness of the putty is very dependent on the lighting. Flaws that are not visible in daylight may become noticeable when illuminated with electric light.

Puttying walls for painting implies a uniform layer of composition without gaps. If the layer is thinner in some place, the paint will have a different shade. The difference between wallpaper putty is that the wallpaper will hide small errors.

As you work, various stripes and stains will appear on the wall. Let's level out the situation as best we can. But don’t forget that there is still life-saving polishing.

Sanding walls

Wall sanding is used to remove small irregularities, streaks and bumps. This process can be either manual or mechanized.

To sand the walls, use regular sandpaper. It differs in particle size. The lower the number of the skin, the rougher its surface. For finishing putty, sandpaper of larger sizes is suitable. If large scratches remain on the wall, then you need to use a finer piece of sandpaper.

In addition to sandpaper, diamond mesh is also used. It differs in the size of the cells, and, unlike sandpaper, it is not clogged with putty. It can be used either manually or using a special holder.

The grinding itself is necessary to eliminate remaining defects; even a beginner can handle it. This process is very dusty, so be sure to wear a respirator. Sanding is done in a circular motion. If you sand in one direction, noticeable scratches will form.

After finishing sanding, the surface needs to be primed again, as a large amount of white dust will remain on it. Wait until it dries and proceed to further work. Puttying walls with your own hands may seem like a time-consuming and complicated process for beginners. In fact, this is not the case, you just have to start.

If you decide to putty the walls with your own hands and not resort to the help of a specialist, then in this article you will find a lot of useful information for yourself. Let's figure out how to properly putty walls for wallpaper and painting. The matter is certainly not simple and requires skill, but we will try to understand as much as possible the question “how to putty walls?” I will not teach you how to hold a spatula or how to move it in any special way; you will learn all this yourself in the process of work. If any question is not covered, do not hesitate to ask it in the comments.

What is putty

Putty is a finishing material that is used to smooth out minor defects and create a uniform surface structure. Mainly consists of gypsum, acrylic and polymer materials.

Why putty the walls?

The walls are puttied in order to remove and level out minor surface defects and improve adhesion. Putty performs very well the function of preparation for finishing. In addition to its leveling qualities, the putty is environmentally friendly, vapor-permeable and can be easily processed or sanded.

Putty or putty, which is correct?

Especially for those who argue for correct writing. In dictionaries, the words putty and putty have the same lexical meanings, so both options are correct. But there is one thing, but... Most construction literature and official information sources use the option (putty). It’s up to you to decide which option is more convenient for use, but still, it’s more fair to say – putty! But in this article, for certain reasons, I will use two options.

Types of putty for walls

And how to make the right choice when purchasing. First, let's figure out what types there are. Let us roughly divide the types of putties into 4 types. For convenience, we will consider them in this form:

Starting
Finishing
Facade

To understand what kind of putty you need and in what quantity, you need to start from two factors:

What kind of surface is there
What kind of finish will there be at the finish?

We will consider all possible options below, but for now let’s talk about the types of putty

Starting putty

Designed for rough leveling of small defects indoors with moderate humidity. The starting putty fills small and deep cracks well and does not shrink much when drying. The composition mainly includes gypsum and acrylic additives. It covers plastered surfaces well, and is well suited for preparing under wallpaper or fiberglass (cobwebs).

Finishing putty

Designed for final leveling of small defects indoors with moderate humidity. B consists mainly of polymers, so it does not have coarse grains. When filling deep scratches, it shrinks significantly after drying. It is used mainly on final layers in preparation for painting, decorative fine coatings. Well suited for fiberglass mesh reinforcement.

Putties for special applications

To this type we include all other varieties that will be useful to us in repairs. These are putties for sealing factory and non-factory drywall seams, for reinforcing and filling various joints and cracks. They dry quickly for ease of use, practically do not shrink, and have increased strength.

Facade putty

The scope of their application is clear from the name. It contains cement, so it has a greenish tint and is often called cement putty. It is used in damp rooms, loggias, basements and on facades. Frost-resistant when dried and has increased strength.

Which putty to choose

So, which putty to choose? A few words about the composition and frequently asked questions.

Selecting putty based on composition

Here I will tell you what putties come in composition and which of the above mentioned types I can classify them as. At the same time, I will answer frequently asked questions. I think everything will fall into place here.

Gypsum putty

The main composition is gypsum, the rest is plasticizers and all kinds of additives. Gypsum itself has a coarse fraction compared to other types of putties. Therefore, it belongs to the type of starting finishing materials, well suited for preparation under wallpaper, cobwebs and rough decorative finishing.

Acrylic putty

Acrylic is such a multifaceted material that can be used in the production of putties of any kind, both starting dry and finishing in buckets. Acrylic putties are also widely used in wood processing of automobile bodies, etc. Therefore, it is probably not correct to use the term “acrylic putty” for a specific application. In this case, it can be either the start or the finish. Very often used in the production of wood putty.

Latex putty

Think about it, latex is rubber. Therefore, putty for finishing walls cannot be rubber; it simply contains a latex component. This putty is very flexible and can be used in damp rooms, although it all depends on the manufacturer.

Polymer putty

Basically these are all finishing putties, except gypsum. Acrylic and vinyl are also polymers, so acrylic and vinyl putty can also be called polymer.

Dry putty for walls

This is a starting material, mainly gypsum and acrylic. Again, suitable for preparation under wallpaper, cobwebs and decorative materials.

Which putty to choose for painting

The wall is prepared for painting as follows:

If the plaster is on the wall - 2 layers of starting gypsum putty, prime, if necessary, glue cobwebs or reinforcing mesh and 3 layers of finished putty, grind and you’re done. If you are interested in specifics, then I use acryl-putz starting at the beginning and rotband pasta or sheetrock at the finish. This is about quality painting. If high-quality painting is not needed, then you can fill 3 layers with starting putty, grind and paint.

Which putty to choose for wallpaper

Under the wallpaper I use starting putty, which comes dry in bags. If we putty plaster, then 3 layers of gypsum or acrylic are usually enough. starting putty. I can recommend acryl-putz, prospectors, typhoon, knauf. (if they are sold in your regions). Pay attention to the price, cheap material almost always bad. We'll talk about how to putty walls under wallpaper a little later.

Start-finish putty

Positioned as a universal putty. Very well suited for preparing wallpaper, cobwebs and rough painting. This mixture is not suitable as a finishing putty for spider webs, and I also do not recommend it for finishing the painting of ceilings and slopes. The finishing putty should be in finished form in polymer-based buckets, not dry. There are no universal putties that perform their function well everywhere.

The best finishing putty

For a long time working in the finishing industry, I tried to work with different brands. Operated them in different conditions and on different surfaces. As for the finishing putty, I can safely say that you need to take Knauf rotband pasta, sheetrock, Bostik finspakel (hardens very much). Finishing putty is often called “ready-made putty for walls”

Summing up the choice

A short selection of putty. For those who are too lazy to read the whole article, who just need to know the number of layers and what putty to buy:

Type of preparation	Work order
under the wallpaper	3 layers starting
for painting	2 layers starting, web, 3 layers finishing
for decorative coating rough	2 layers of starter, mesh reinforcement, 1 layer of starter
finely dispersed for decorative coating	2 layers starting, reinforcement, 3 layers finishing
slopes	2 start, web, 3 finish
GKL for painting	finishing of seams with special putties, cobwebs, 3 layers of finishing
GKL for wallpaper	finishing seams, finishing seams with finishing putty
loggia	3 layers of façade (if you really need to putty and it’s damp on the balcony)
basement	if it is very damp façade putty 3 layers.
bathroom	although not recommended, I use conventional technology, as in other rooms. But you can paint it with moisture-resistant paint.

We'll talk about this in more detail in the following chapters.

Calculation and consumption of putty for different surfaces

And so, how to calculate putty for walls... First, let's figure out what kind of surface we have, if these are plastered walls, then the consumption will increase significantly. Plasterboard walls will not require a lot of putty, but they will require a special putty for fugen and uniflot joints.

Putty consumption per m2

The average consumption of starting putty, indicated by the manufacturers, is 1kg-1.2kg per m2 of wall with a layer thickness of 0.6-3mm. Putty consumption per 1 m2 of wall is a very approximate parameter.

The consumption mainly depends on the characteristics of the wall (condition, porosity), and the experience of the “specialist” also plays an important role.

The consumption of finishing putty per m2 of wall is slightly less, 0.3-0.5 kg with a layer thickness of 0.5 mm. Again, it all depends on the surface being treated. For example, the consumption of putty on a cobweb will be significantly more than stated and will be approximately 0.5 kg per m2.

You won’t be able to calculate the exact amount of putty, so we take the average values, multiply by the number of layers (mm thickness) and multiply by the square footage of the walls. For example, if the total area of the walls of a room is 40 m2 and we need to prepare it for wallpaper, then take the indicator 1 kg, multiply it by the number of layers (3 layers of 0.6 mm = 1.8 mm) and multiply by 40 m2

1kg*1.8mm*40m2= 72kg

One bag of putty usually weighs 25kg, so we need 3 bags of dry starting putty for a 40m2 room.

Calculation of putty for sealing plasterboard joints “Fugenfüller” and “Uniflot”

I recommend sealing the factory seams with fugen knauf, and not the factory seams (cut) with uniflot. There are usually not so many non-factory seams, so we buy the smallest volume of “uniflot” 5 kg. As for factory seams, the consumption of “fugenfüller” is approximately 1 kg per 4 m2 of installed drywall.

How to putty walls (tool)

How to putty the walls? The main things we need from the tool:

Spatula 10 cm
Spatula 35 cm or metal grater, smoother.
Mixer, whisk
Roller and brush for primer
Grinding grater, sandpaper
Masking tape, knife, blades
Water container
Lighting, spotlight
Vacuum cleaner

Paying attention! All spatulas, smoothers, handles for rollers must be non-rusting. This way they will serve you much longer and there will be no problems with rusty stains on the walls.

Preparation for putty

Any leveling of walls with putty begins with preparation. Preparing the wall is a very important stage; it will determine how well subsequent finishing materials will hold up. The surface must be well cleaned of debris, old wallpaper, and anything that does not adhere well and crumbles. All nails and protruding mortar are removed if it is plaster.

Next comes the priming of the surface, the wall should be well soaked with a deep penetration primer and wait until it dries completely, it is advisable to wait at least four hours, or even better, continue working the next day. The primer must not only absorb and dry, but also polymerize.

How to remove old putty from walls

If you need to remove old putty because it doesn’t stick well, then a 10 cm spatula and, for example, a hatchet are enough. If the putty holds well, you can try to wet it several times with water. It’s good to write it down and try to remove it with a spatula again.

If the putty is well primed and is not removed or soaked, then there are only two options.

Knock down with a hammer until the plaster is finished (you will need to plaster the surface later)
The second option is to make notches with a hatchet, prime with a deep-penetrating primer, wait until it dries completely, and then cover the entire wall with primer (sandy soil)

Putty of various surfaces for different finishes

Puttying various surfaces is essentially the same process, the only difference is in the preparation and the number of layers. I’ll talk about the filling technique itself in another chapter, but in this one we’ll talk about preparation and the number of layers.

How to putty drywall

We’ll talk more about the puttying technology itself in the chapter “Do-it-yourself puttying of walls (step-by-step instructions).” We start by preparing the drywall. Preparation includes sealing the seams with sickle tape or paper tape. At this stage, we will need putty for a special application (this is mainly the application of sealing gypsum board seams). To seal factory gypsum board seams, we use knauf fugen. For non-factory seams we use knauf uniflot.

Primer of drywall before puttying

Apply the primer evenly to the wall using a roller, be sure to apply it evenly and without smudges, prime all seams and corners with a brush. Waiting for it to dry completely!

Puttying drywall joints with fugen and uniflot putties

This is a special putty for drywall developed by Knauf, which practically does not shrink and performs its function very well. We glue serpyanka tape onto the factory seams, coat the factory seams with fugen knauf, and not the factory seams with uniflot knauf. If we use paper tape, then first coat the seams with putty, then glue the tape and use a spatula to push it deep into the layer. Non-factory seams should have expansion gaps, and the cardboard at the edges should be cut at 45 degrees on each side.

Read on the packaging how to properly knead fugenfüller. Please note that you need to knead only in clean water and only by hand.

Puttying drywall before wallpapering

We wait for the sealed seams to dry completely, clean 35 cm of excess and small sagging with a spatula. Mix the starting putty and go through all the seams again. We wait for it to dry completely, then we clean all the seams with coarse sandpaper 80P-100P. Then we prime the entire wall again.

Do I need to putty drywall before wallpapering? Usually, the sealed seams should be enough for subsequent wallpapering (be sure to fill the seams with starting putty after fugen has dried). But, if you have very thin wallpaper, then it is advisable to putty the entire gypsum board wall with ready-made finishing putty in three layers. I recommend using knauf rotband paste or sheetrock finishing putty. We clean it with 140-180P abrasive, remove dust with a vacuum cleaner and re-prime it.

Plasterboard putty for painting

The seams are sealed using the above method. The seams must be cleaned and the entire wall primed. For high-quality painting, we use cobwebs, glue them with Bostik glue (I wrote about this in the article about gluing cobwebs). Then we putty the cobwebs into three layers and sand them with 180-240R sandpaper. Instead of cobwebs, you can glue a painting mesh with a 2x2 cell.

If you are not very interested in quality, but want to save money, then you can simply clean the seams and paint with a long-nap roller. It will work out a little better if you putty on 2 more layers with finishing putty and clean it with 180 rubles.

Putty walls for painting

The technology itself for puttingtying walls for painting is no different from others, only the number of layers, the presence of reinforcing material (if the painting is high-quality), and the number of sandpaper when sanding the putty are different.

If the surface is plastered, then the sequence of work should look like this:

Preparation, priming
2-3 layers of starting putty (depending on the quality of the plaster)
Rough sanding with 80R sandpaper
Dust off, prime
Fiberglass (cobweb) or reinforcing mesh is glued (glued to the finishing putty)
Then 2-3 layers of finishing putty
Grinding with sandpaper 180-240R
Remove dust, vacuum, prime (white primer)

Fiberglass putty before painting

Many people wonder whether it is possible to putty fiberglass? Essentially, these are glass wallpapers and many people simply paint them, but I’ll tell you that this is complete nonsense. Practice shows that it is not only possible to putty on cobwebs, but also necessary!

Here only ready-made wall putty (finish) will be used. We putty the first layer of putty “to tear it off”, smooth the putty into all the pores of the web in different directions and completely remove it. We putty under good lighting, making sure that there are no gaps. We try not to move the spatula for too long; if the web is of poor quality, it will get wet and drag on the spatula. The next two applications of putty are applied in a thin, neat layer.

How to properly putty walls under wallpaper

Puttying walls under wallpaper - one hundred most simple preparation, In my opinion. No reinforcement is required if the wallpaper is thick; finishing putty is not even required. Easily rubbed with coarse sandpaper. The main thing is to follow the minimum technology, which I will describe below.

Clean and dust the wall
Large holes and cracks are sealed separately
The first layer is applied
After drying, the wall is cleaned with a spatula to remove excess debris.
Apply 2 layers
Cleaned with sandpaper 100-120R
Removes dust
Prime with white primer and wait for it to dry completely.

I recommend buying thick non-woven wallpaper, they are easier to apply and better hide small nuances of the walls. Finishing putty for wallpaper is needed if the wallpaper is very thin and any defects will be visible. This also applies to photo wallpapers; it is also advisable to use finishing putty under them.

Puttying concrete walls

Putty concrete walls without plaster is acceptable in panel houses with relatively smooth walls, in other cases, plastering of surfaces is required. It is enough to prepare well, remove all excess from the wall, and prime it. Then, using 3 layers of starting putty, prepare it for the wallpaper.

Putty on penoplex (how to putty on penoplex)

I don’t know what kind of situation a person must have in order for him to need to putty penoplex, but we often receive such questions in the mail. Most likely, a person does not understand what putty is and has no idea how penoplex is finished. Or maybe he just needs to finish the facade, or the loggia, and he calls it all penoplex putty... I don’t know, but I’ll write a few words about this.

Penoplex cannot be putty with materials for interior decoration, and in this article we are talking about it. Consider the option of a loggia, for example, we have it insulated with polystyrene foam, timbered and we need to prepare the surface for painting.

We cover all the holes and dowel-nail heads with insulation glue. We glue the façade mesh and rub it all over with plaster. After complete drying, prime. Now the walls can be filled with cement façade putty. Personally, I recommend not to putty with cheap facade mixtures, but in this case it is best to use decorative plaster(for example, 1.5mm pebble)

The façade putty must be rubbed down immediately after complete drying. If you wait a couple of days, the emery abrasive will not take it.

Putty on plastered walls

The plastered wall needs to be thoroughly cleaned with a 35cm spatula, removing all sagging and everything that crumbles. Then you should prime the entire wall well and wait until it dries completely. If we are preparing it for wallpaper, then we apply 3 layers of starting putty. We coat all the cracks well with the first layer, fill in all the unevenness of the plaster, often this first layer is called “scraping putty.” Then follow 2 layers approximately 1mm thick. After drying, grind and prime (if under wallpaper). If it is for painting, then we prepare the wall further; I will describe it in more detail in the chapter “putty for painting”

Is it possible to putty over paint?

It is not advisable to putty on paint. If you need to putty acrylic paint, you first need to make sure that it adheres well, then prime it well and wait until it dries completely. Now it is permissible to fill it with several layers of finishing putty.

If you need to putty oil paint and there are no other options, then you need to cover it with sandy primer (for example, Caparol Putzgrund 610), after which you can putty the surface in several layers. I repeat, it is not advisable to putty the paint; it is recommended to remove it.

Putty without plaster

If you don’t want to level the walls with plaster, but simply putty the walls with your own hands and stick wallpaper, then first check how crooked the walls are. This can be done using a level or a rule. If the distortions are not very large and the quality of the wallpaper is of little interest to you, then you can simply putty on 3 layers and rub with coarse sandpaper 80R. We use only starting putty.

How to putty a balcony (loggia)

Such cold rooms are usually finished with facade materials, so facade putty is suitable for us. The facade putty contains cement, so it has a fairly large fraction. I recommend using high-quality, expensive material (for example, Caparol). Cheap - when rubbed with sandpaper, it becomes stained and behaves poorly when applied. If you need to decorate a loggia, it is better to use decorative plaster on the walls.

Do-it-yourself wall putty (step-by-step instructions)

Here we will talk about how to putty walls with your own hands step by step. We have already talked about preparing different surfaces, etc. In subsequent chapters, we’ll look at the putty technology itself in a little more detail and talk again about preparation for wallpaper, painting, and learn how to apply putty correctly.

We carry out work in dry rooms with temperatures from +5 to +25. The material is transported at the same temperature.

Step 1: preparing the walls

I already wrote about the preparation of walls above in the chapter “preparation for putty”; here I will repeat myself a little so as not to confuse everything even more. We clean the walls with a 35cm spatula (preferably an old one). After such cleaning, the spatula is not very suitable for subsequent putty. We clean the corners well, often after plastering the corners are slightly rounded. Pay attention to the connection to the ceiling and floor. The plane should be flat and neatly adjacent to adjacent walls and ceiling.

Step 2: priming the walls before puttying

Which primer is best? The soil should be coarse, I recommend Caparol Tiefgrund, ceresit st17. Although any concentrated deep impregnation primer is not bad. We dilute the primer according to the instructions, pour it into a bucket or bath and use a brush to saturate all the corners and junctions of the wall. Then, using a roller, apply primer to all surfaces that require puttying. The walls are primed for putty evenly. We wait for complete drying from four hours, but preferably a day.

Step 3: how to thin the putty

Pour approximately 2 liters of clean water into a bucket and add 5 kg of dry putty (all figures depend on the manufacturer). Then use a mixer or a whisk with a drill, mix everything until smooth. If necessary, add water or putty to achieve the desired thickness. If you take the putty on a 10cm spatula and turn it over, it should not flow down. Also, the solution should not be very thick, but rather elastic. After the first stirring, wait 3-4 minutes and stir again. After which the solution is ready for use. The solution should resemble thick sour cream.

If you need to putty with a ready-made finishing putty, I recommend adding 0.5 liters of clean water to a 10 liter bucket and mixing with a mixer. The putty will become more elastic and more convenient to apply.

Step 4: putty technology

Finishing and starting putty are applied in essentially the same way, the only difference is in the thickness of the application.

How to apply putty

If there are large potholes and cracks on the wall, then we putty them in advance and wait until everything dries. Then we apply the putty in an even layer on a 35cm spatula and, starting from the corner, begin to apply the putty on the wall. If the wall is plastered, then after application we remove the putty “scraping” with a spatula so that the first layer penetrates only into all small cracks and irregularities.

Don’t forget that we are leveling the walls with putty, so we try to fill all the holes and small irregularities

After the first layer has dried, we clean the wall again with a spatula to remove particles of excess putty, sand from plaster and other debris. Then we evenly apply a second layer of putty, but we do not remove it completely, but apply approximately a 0.5 mm layer; in places of unevenness, the layer can reach up to 5 mm.

We must putty with good lighting, preferably under a spotlight or light bulb.

The third layer can be applied without waiting for the second layer to dry completely. We apply each layer in different directions so that the final movement of the spatula does not coincide with the direction of the next one. The third layer can be applied generally in a fan-like manner, smoothing with arc-shaped movements.

Pay attention to the back of the spatula. Periodically remove dry particles of putty and debris from it.

How to apply finishing putty (liquid putty for walls)

Wash your instrument frequently to prevent it from becoming completely overgrown. To do this, you need to have a bucket of water and dish sponges on hand.

The finished finishing putty is applied in exactly the same way as the starting putty (described above). We try to apply a thinner layer. Be sure to putty the walls so that there is good lateral illumination. Finishing putty has the property of strong shrinkage, so it is better not to level it with layers of 2-3 mm.

Step 5: how to putty corners

Puttying the corners of the walls is an important step; you need to make sure that the corners are well filled with putty and that dark empty cracks do not show through.

Internal corner

The inner corner of the adjacent ones is puttied alternately. First, one wall, wait for it to dry completely, remove excess putty particles from the corner with a spatula, then putty the adjacent wall.

Outside corner

In modern renovations, perforated corners have long been used; aluminum corners are used for painting work. They are leveled; after drying, the corner should be pulled off on both sides with putty. (I recommend pulling the fugen knauf, it gives a little shrinkage)

Puttying drywall corners

The inner corner of the gypsum board is glued with sickle tape or special paper tape and pulled back with “uniflot” or “fugen” putty. If you use sickle tape, then thoroughly press the putty into the seams of the drywall. If the tape is paper, then the seams are filled before applying the tape, the excess putty is pressed through and removed with a spatula. The outer corner is also placed on the “fugenfüller” and pulled out on both sides. (in some cases the corner is pulled twice)

Reinforcement

Reinforcement during putty usually occurs at the stage when our wall is puttied in 1-3 layers. Reinforcement such as painting mesh and cobwebs protects the wall only from small cracks. In addition to the reinforcing effect, the web creates a uniform surface and smoothes out minor irregularities.

Cobweb (fiberglass)

In one of the articles, I described detailed technology gluing the web, so I’ll describe it briefly here.

2-3 layers of starting putty, sanded with 80P sandpaper\
Prime and wait for it to dry completely
Apply glue with a roller (I recommend glue from Bostik or Oskar)
Fiberglass is applied and smoothed with a spatula
Reapply a layer of glue with a roller
Smooth it out with a 35cm spatula, as if we were putting it with glue.
Subsequent strips of fiberglass are glued end-to-end, or cut with a knife at the joints

Painting mesh

Autumn protects walls well from small cracks and is great for preparing for painting or decorative finishes.

1-2 layers of starting putty (wait for complete drying
Cleaning the wall with a spatula
Apply the mesh and smooth the top with finishing putty
Excess is trimmed with a paint knife
After which 2 more layers of finishing putty are applied

How long does it take for putty to dry on walls?

The putty dries in about 6 hours, it all depends on the temperature and humidity of the room. It is advisable to wait a day and then start sanding. It is not recommended to wait several days; some brands of putty harden greatly.

Sanding walls after puttying

So we figured out how to properly putty the walls, now we will answer the question of how to sand the walls after puttying. There is nothing complicated in grinding, there are only a few small nuances, which I will talk about now.
Hand sanding

In manual sanding, a “hand grater” is used - this is a tool for sanding walls after puttying; I recommend purchasing it from white plastic because black ones leave streaks in the corners when sanded. It is better to use sandpaper that is not the cheapest. The most important thing and the very first thing to say is to remember to use a respirator!

Sanding the walls after puttying occurs exclusively in circular movements and under the illumination of a spotlight!

If we use household vacuum cleaner, that is, there is a possibility of damaging the equipment. Therefore, we first remove large debris with a spatula and sweep. And we vacuum up the remaining dust.

Mesh for grouting putty

Personally, I don’t use mesh; the ones sold in my region are of poor quality and scratch the surface. As far as I know, it can be used with special graters that are connected to a vacuum cleaner. You only need to connect industrial devices, for example, bosch gas50.

Machine grinding

In my opinion, machine sanding is excellent for sanding under wallpaper, and requires some skill so as not to rub large holes. It is better to grind it by hand before painting. Machine sanding reduces labor costs, reduces dust, and speeds up the process. But you will need a grinding machine (preferably a special one for grinding walls) and a vacuum cleaner. All this can be rented if you need to grind large volumes.