Beautiful, abundantly fruiting Orchard can be grown in almost any region of our country. VC. Zhelezov proves in practice the possibility of this in the north of Siberia, where, in general, the conditions are very harsh. But even especially winter-hardy varieties that are grown using special “northern” agricultural techniques will feel much better if, even at the stage of acquiring a plot for a garden, you make sure that this plot is located in a location FAVORABLE for the garden - the best of those what you can choose.
VC. Zhelezov writes: “I would say simply: all favorable places for gardens are around large bodies of water, either on the southern slopes and in amphitheatres, or in windless places protected by hills and rocks.”
In addition to the obvious disadvantages in the form of air, water and soil pollution by toxic waste, it also has one advantage.
From the point of view of a heating engineer, the city is a huge stone fire that burns all winter. Houses are heated in any climate, even in Sochi. And every day EVERYTHING is warm heating devices radiates and flies into the air! Introduced? Plus the heat of the sun accumulated during the day by the walls of houses. Plus the greenhouse effect from smog and carbon dioxide. And all this warm air mass with the prevailing wind creeps onto the suburbs of a city with a population of 200,000, warming 8-10 km of suburbs, a million-plus city - 30-40 km. This means that it is warmest in the private sector of the city itself. Especially between a city and a large body of water. The leeward suburbs are unlucky - it is 4-7° colder here than in the city. For us gardeners, this is a lot!
7. Good soil drainage.
Where water stagnates and stays close to the soil surface for a long time, the garden has almost no chance. Even in the south, in flooded places, only pome fruits grow; stone fruits simply get wet. Instead of subsoil, such a “wet” often forms something like black silt - gley. It is poisonous to the roots - there is no air in it. But even without gley, such soil has too little oxygen.
In harsh areas, standing close to groundwater is also dangerous. In spring this is flooding, and in the second half of summer excess moisture delays the ripening of wood.
How to determine all this?
All of the above are just the main signs of favorable climatic microzones. In theory, the more you collect on your site, the better. It’s just not easy to take them into account. Even to determine - you already have to be a specialist! Eyes alone are not enough here. What to do?
Many people advise asking experienced gardeners. Ask. But know this: experienced gardeners- special people. No one will tell you that he lives in a particularly soft microzone. If you tell him, he will be offended for life! Everyone is sure that they live in the most ordinary, that is, terribly harsh climate. And the fact that the garden grew like this is the result of many years of experience, an inquisitive mind and hard work.
But ask around about the timing of planting and ripening different cultures- this business. When do the first cucumbers, tomatoes, and zucchini ripen? Where before? There are also fruit crops, indicating a special microclimate. For example, Vladimir cherry is tree-like. It is found almost everywhere, but it bears fruit consistently only in microzones.
Well, the obvious “heavenly place” can be seen from afar: mulberries, vines, many different pears and cherries, and even a walnut sticking out, and not even very frozen...
If you liked this material, then we offer you a selection of the most the best materials our site according to our readers. You can find a selection - TOP about existing eco-villages, family estates, their history of creation and everything about eco-houses where it is most convenient for youHello guys!
And again it's January. I have another theoretical self-educational course.
TOPIC of the course; Methods of current smart farmers in Russia (permaculture farming in Russian).
I ordered and bought books:
1) A.Yu. Sapelin. 10 stages of designing a small garden. (Moscow, middle zone).
2) Pavel Trannoy. Triangular miracle beds. (Moscow, middle zone).
3) N.I. Kurdyumov. Shaping instead of pruning (Krasnodar region).
4) A.A. Kazarin, N.I. Kurdyumov. Diaries of a smart summer resident. (Pskov, north-west).
5) N.I. Kurdyumov, V.K. Zhelezov. Smart garden. How to outsmart the climate. (Sayanogorsk on the Yenisei).
6)B.A. Bagel. Vegetable garden in a new way. The revolutionary "do-nothing" method. (Ukraine).
7) N.I. Kurdyumov. Fertility Mastery.
I read these exciting “garden novels” with pen in hand. So many different methods! New information!
I read with great interest: I accept some things, reject others, some methods require verification, and some have been worked out better in our country.
At the same time, I imagine with horror how novice farmers will read these same books... What kind of porridge will fill their heads? Masters of agriculture describe methods for the smart and the lazy, exactly the opposite. Moreover, affirming! And how many other amateur authors with beautiful pictures entice naive beginners?... Horrible!
The fact is that all these authors are powerful professional practitioners who live and work in different climatic regions and have developed methods for specific climatic conditions.
Each of them has different tasks when growing the same crops.
Southern Bagel needs to retain moisture and cover the soil from overheating --- otherwise everything will “burn.” Trannois, on the contrary, is to dry and warm the soil as quickly as possible in order to have time to get a harvest in the short and cool summer. That’s why Bublik suggests planting under a peg (under the heel) as we and our ancestors planted in the south. And Trannois - into triangular ridges; Kazarin - into the ridges.
Both tomatoes and potatoes have to be grown in different ways...
My impressions:
I really liked the “EM-silo” at Bublik. Cool!
Books and articles by Pavel Trannois are always “balm for the soul” for me. He writes simply and competently. Just for our middle zone.
N.I. I have been reading Kurdyumov for a long time, but I would not advise beginners to read it until they have acquired at least basic experience.
But the co-authorship of N.I. Kurdyumova with A.A. Kazarin and, especially, with Zhelezov V.K. pleased. I really hope that the experience of northern practitioners will make a tangible contribution to popular literature for farmers, and the “postulates” of northerners will not anger people...
Now, at the stage of site development, literature on design is important to us. I choose A.Yu. Sapelina, I advise you to read about this from Mollison (Introduction to Permaculture)
We are starting to plant orchards, which means we need to form fruit trees in the first years of their life. This is well described by N.I. Kurdyumova (Shaping instead of trimming)
All. I went to read “The Mastery of Fertility” by Kurdyumov.
Goodbye.
Elena Vladimirovna.
From the book “Smart Garden. How to outsmart the climate." N. I. Kurdyumov, V. K. Zhelezov:
«…
Chapter 5
Do not kill seedlings by planting
“Eh, garden head!” - this is about the erudition of our summer residents.
Many people understand the word “plant” literally: to poke, to bury, to place in place. As a last resort, do everything according to the instructions in the gardening textbook. I offer the present, true meaning of this word: to plant means to ensure the longevity and health of the tree at the time of planting. Otherwise, it’s unclear why we’re poking and burying. Hence the result.
HOW TO DESTROY A SEEDLING BY PLANTING “ACCORDING SCIENCE”
Look at Figure 1. In similar versions, it has been wandering around hundreds of gardening publications for more than a century. This is a classic “book” planting, consecrated by the authority of many famous gardeners. And so I take the liberty of asserting: it is this method of planting - “in a depression” - that is destructive for the North and Siberia. And for many places in the south too.
I read the latest literature, receive hundreds of letters from all over Russia.
It’s amazing: gardeners seem to know everything. But they can’t grow the same apricot! Why? It seems that I have found the reason for many failures. But first, I’ll remember A. I. Sychev’s article “Apricot Paradoxes.” It shows that north of Voronezh and Kursk, apricots can, as they say, be counted on one hand; that the most terrible enemy of apricots in the middle zone is snow, and that snow accumulation is the main reason for failures in growing apricots. Paradox: in the south apricots do not grow because it is warm - there are many diseases, but in the north - because it is cold and there is a lot of snow!
M. G. Maksimenko’s article, reflecting the classic view of a European fruit growing scientist, does not add optimism: “The main factor hindering the spread of this crop in northern latitudes is cold winters. Frosts down to -25°C apricot trees can withstand for 3-4 days, up to -32°C - no more than a day, -35 ... -38°C - only a few hours. All this refers to a period of deep rest (late December - early January). In February and early March, the critical temperature for apricot is -20°C...”
Yes!.. A real death sentence for apricots. It turns out that throughout the entire territory of central Russia there is no place where the apricot would survive. And even more so in Siberia! It's good that we didn't know anything about it. So they planted half of the Minusinsk basin with apricots - out of ignorance. The apricots of T.V. Eremeeva bear fruit near Irkutsk, the varieties of M.V. Makarov in Krasnoyarsk, and the varieties of I.L. Baikalov in Abakan. And the varieties of P.S. Sharkov near Nizhny Novgorod bore fruit after the critical winter of 2010/2011 - apparently also from ignorance...
But maybe there is another reason for the death of apricots? I'm sure there is.
In the same article, M. G. Maksimenko teaches us how to plant apricots correctly. Of course, according to the classics - into the recesses. And then the author complains that apricots have a weak root collar!
“... Having filled the hole, they form a roll of earth 12-15 cm high around it so that the water is retained during irrigation.” Of course, the water will linger. And not only after the rains, but also in the spring, when the snow melts, the hole will be filled for weeks: the frozen ground does not absorb water at this time. During the day, the root collar suffocates in water - it rots away, and at night, ice, tearing the bark, completes its destruction. The funny thing is that after a couple of years the roots leave the planting hole to the periphery, and the depression around the trunk remains long years. Moreover, the pit itself will settle - it turns out to be a “funnel”. I call this planting “death to the tree.” If the soil is clay, “death is guaranteed.” In the Kuban, in the loamy foothills, in some snowy winters, when water stagnates in such “puddles” in the spring, not only stone fruits - even apple trees - are dampened. And the snow-covered areas of Siberia are simply groaning from the damping off of stone fruits!
You can go crazy: first we plant trees in holes, and then we complain that their root collars are rotting away! Look at photo 28, right: the last dying harvest of a beautiful young apricot. Sits in a recess - the root collar is almost gone. That’s the reason why there are almost no apricots anywhere! Few plums - rotting root collar, few pears - rotting root collar (same photo, left). The wonderful one has almost disappeared felt cherry: its root collar is even weaker. But there are probably millions of such “deadly” landings throughout Russia. Apple trees have the “strongest” root collar. But even they, planted in depressions, do not live in Siberia for more than 15-20 years. If they had been planted in the hills, they would have been alive. I am not saying this out of nowhere - I learned from bitter experience. Over the past twenty years, not a single tree has died in my garden. And I can’t count how many rotten root collars I’ve seen in other gardens!
You say: why complicate things? Okay, the holes are dangerous, but you can plant on level ground! I will answer: no matter how it is. I have a flat place - a school of apricots. Usually there is little snow, it is dry, and the soil underneath is frozen. The usual marriage after winter is several pieces. But then it happened mild winter- Half a meter of snow fell before the frost. Every fifth seedling had to be rejected due to damping off! And there will be more and more such winters.
Here are my conclusions.
In areas where such snowy winters are common, a significant portion of stone fruits will still be damped off. After all, you can’t force everyone to go to the hills.
This is where it is necessary to carry out mass selection for the resistance of the root collar and bark to damping off - sowing thousands of seeds and selecting the most resistant trees to receive rootstocks from them.
The most preferred fit stone fruits in these zones - not even just in the hills, but better on the natural southern slopes of the hills and foothills.
Recently, advice has appeared in our press to plant apricots in very high hills - up to a meter, even up to one and a half meters. I'm sure this is another extreme. In places with special severe frosts it's just as dangerous. And in Novosibirsk there is sometimes no snow. We'll save the bark and freeze the roots.
DON'T DIGG A HOLE - YOU WILL FALL INTO IT YOURSELF
Photo 29 shows some of my apricots. Spring flood. The trees are planted in the hill (Fig. 2). Please note: the snow level near the tree trunk is less than around it. And there is no water at the base of the trunk. It's enough! And we are taught to shovel wet snow from the tree trunk, freeze the damp soil in a hole, then shovel the snow again - in order to “delay the flowering.” And no one asked the apricot roots, and especially the root collar: how tolerable are these manipulations for them? It turns out, not by much. Our Manchus grow naturally on dry mountain slopes, while Asians grow in dry, snowless valleys, also preferring slopes. Nowhere in nature do apricots grow in “puddles”!
A century and a half ago, the garden genius Nikolai Gaucher recommended planting in a hill: the width of the hill is 2-2.5 m, the height in the center is 30-40 cm. At the top of the hill a hole is made according to the size of the roots, the tree is planted taking into account the fact that after trampling pits, the root collar is slightly raised above the surface (Fig. 3). I wonder why THIS classic didn’t catch on? Thank God, it has been revived lately. Planting in the hills has been warmly and long recommended by the former director of the Michurinsky Garden of the Timiryazev Academy V. I. Susov. N.I. Kurdyumov has been writing about it for a long time, in relation to damp places.
I am sure that in a harsh climate it is simply impossible to plant differently.
It turns out that the wonderful gardener of Smolensk, the head of large farm“Nurse” Yu. M. Chuguev. He grows seedlings in containers. I admire the simplicity and intelligence of his planting method!
Look at photo 30, compiled from a report from the site chuguev.ru. On level ground, we weed and loosen the soil with a hoe, and place a bag with a seedling (or just a lump taken out of the pot) in the center (Fig. 4). We drive a stake and tie a seedling to it. Cut the container and remove the fabric. Slowly pour a bucket of water over it. And then we simply cover it with earth - we create a gentle mound, picking up soil from the sides (photo 30 below). We pour another bucket of water on it, and mulch it with organic matter on top - grass, straw. All! The trees develop quickly, begin to bear fruit early and, most importantly, never wither away! Yuri Mikhailovich believes that the reason for success is the blowing away of snow and the outflow of water from the trunk, the rapid heating of the hill and the high activity of microflora.
I do the opposite, but with the same result: I plant it in a hill prepared in advance. In Siberia, it is better to prepare hills in the fall: you can plant in them when the ground has just begun to thaw from the surface. This means extending the tree’s short summer by one to two weeks.
Many are already familiar with the high ridges of Sepp Holzer. Yu. M. Chuguev has long been using this truly breakthrough method of planting. Grapes planted on high ridges separated by ditches (photo 31) consistently produce industrial yields in Smolensk! In the same way, but without ditches, Chuguev plants all stone fruit varieties, even frost-resistant varieties of cherries. The result is very stable yields and excellent tree health.
Finally, I can’t help but mention a strange, to put it mildly, method of planting: “on a substrate.” They also often say “for drainage”. In the south, this is how vigorous plants are planted. walnuts: Place bricks or a piece of iron under the chopped tap root. After suffering from this obstacle for two years, the seedling tree grows weaker and begins to bear fruit earlier. Although this is barbaric, it is still understandable for the south. But when the substrate is recommended in places with close groundwater, so that “the roots do not go deep,” and I hear this in Siberia - here I just throw up my hands.
Apparently, the authors of the technique somehow “humanize” the tree: they say, the roots will collide with an obstacle and obediently begin to grow to the sides - like a stupid subordinate. No matter how it is! No matter what you put under the roots, they will still recover, find their way down and develop all the available soil. And they were cut anyway. So why disfigure them with this?!
They also often write about “drainage” - they advise putting a layer of broken brick, expanded clay or stone at the bottom of the hole. And it’s unclear to me why. It does not save you from flooding - the water in the hole is higher than any bricks. If it is sand or sandy loam, it is better to throw it under the seedling clay soil- it will retain more moisture and give out more nutrition. And if the soil is not flooded, such drainage is simply not needed. It seems that here we are just trying to turn the hole into " flower pot", without thinking about the meaning of their actions.
In general, hasty gardeners strive with all their might to quickly squeeze the first harvest out of the trees. Truly, greed is stronger than reason.
They don’t even think: the more interference a tree has, the less its overall harvest. There is even such a myth as to replant a tree several times. Well, no matter how many times you replant, the harvest is smaller.
TRANSPLANT TWICE - IT WILL GET FERTILIZED FASTER!
What's true is true! A crippled tree begins to bear fruit faster. Such gardeners, or rather “sadists,” do not have the patience to wait for a harvest from a healthy, developed tree. Their goal is a quick harvest at any cost. The goal of a tree is to have time to prolong its lineage. And a transplant is a terrible ordeal. And he has no time for growth: in a panic, he adapts to the fruits. But ATTENTION! - it will never bear as many fruits as are included in its development program for the rest of its life.
For a long time I could not understand why this evidence was beyond the understanding of the “sadists.” And, it seems, I found it. In the book of the outstanding gardener R.I. Schroeder “Russian vegetable garden, nursery and orchard» repeated replanting of trees is described. But - not grafted seedlings, and for selection purposes! And this is just understandable. A seedling apple tree can bloom for the first time in the 10-15th, even 20th year! To speed up flowering, you have to replant. And well-read summer residents, “hearing the ringing” and without thinking, transplant grafted seedlings, turning them into disabled people.
There are also just habits. Trees are often replanted because “the place is probably bad.” Moreover, they write about it, and Zhelezov too. But I know for sure - the place is to blame! And here it’s just instinct: if it doesn’t work out here, maybe it will work out there.
And what’s even worse is that almost none of the summer residents simply have the goal of growing good tree. It should grow on its own, the seller should be responsible for it - and I have nothing to do with it. Not growing, dead? I'll go buy a new one. Maybe this will grow better - I wonder... What, will this die too? Come on, vile traders! I’ll go and buy three more pieces: well, not everyone is such a liar!..
AND PLANTING TIME CAN BE DISASTROUS!
When is the best time to plant - that is, replant young trees? Imagine a question so complex and confusing that it requires clarification. Open books, newspapers, gardening magazines. You will find five options:
It is necessary to replant only in the fall.
Only in the spring.
It is better to plant seed crops in the fall, and stone fruits in the spring.
Trees should be planted in the spring, and shrubs in the fall.
In the southern regions, all species should be planted in the fall, and in the northern regions - only in the spring.
The most common opinion: in the North and Siberia autumn planting destructive. I’ll object: it depends on what moment and what kind of seedlings!
First of all: planting “disabled children” with their roots cut off is destructive at any time. And with an intact root system, you can plant it either in the fall or in the spring. The tree needs to be replanted big lump soil - so that even in June the leaves do not wither!
But even if the com is good, optimal time there are transfers. Communicating with hundreds of beginning gardeners, I became convinced: yes, many of them ruined their favorites simply by planting them in the fall. But - exactly late autumn! This is the main mistake. When replanting, no matter how hard you try, the roots are still damaged, the leaves wither and fall off. The tree does not have time to take root, which means to prepare for winter. If you are lucky, it will immediately be covered with snow, and even if it has not taken root, it will sit comfortably until spring. If you're unlucky, the frosty wind will dry out the crown, deprived of moisture: the roots haven't had time to grow. And the roots in this form do not resist frost.
In my gardening life, I have transplanted thousands of seedlings in the fall. And failures were very rare. The secret is this: I replant them not in late autumn, but early: late August - early September. The seedlings with leaves and a mass of intact roots were moved to a new location. They continue to grow, and before frost they manage to take root in the ground, grow new roots, shed leaves normally and finish ripening the buds. In winter, the crown receives moisture from the roots, and frost resistance is normal. Such trees overwinter well and wake up on time in the spring - about a month earlier than seedlings spring planting. They are still coming to their senses and starting to grow - it’s almost July. They probably won't ripen by winter. And these start immediately. And the growth is good, and the growing season is long - they have time to prepare for winter.
You see, there is only a month difference in fit, but there are so many advantages! A common market situation: the seedlings were taken out while they were still green, but there were almost no roots. Here the seller wipes the leaves so that they do not evaporate the moisture and the seedlings do not dry out. It rips off in one motion from top to bottom: don’t waste your time! And this is the most barbaric method: dozens of fresh wounds near the kidneys, and winter is ahead! The most serious gardeners, sparing no labor, cut off each leaf, leaving a petiole. The measure is necessary - for the long-distance transportation of hundreds of seedlings.
I never remove the leaves. Leaf - " solar battery“- must work to the end, give all its substances to the branch and axillary bud. Break off green leaves For me it’s the same as immediately cutting off the umbilical cord of a newborn. I dig it up, keeping a large lump of earth, and carefully place it in cardboard box- the seedling continues to live. And lately I have been growing a lot of seedlings in containers. Almost the entire root system is preserved here, except for the lower part of the tap root, which has grown through the hole (photos 32 and 33).
It's a completely different matter to cut off part of the crown. This is necessary for two reasons. Firstly, some of the roots are still lost. The crown has become too large. In the spring, when it’s warm, all the buds will begin to demand water - but there’s an acute shortage of roots! Instead of growth - numbness, emergency restructuring: growing roots at the expense of a supply of branches. A lost year is the best case scenario. Secondly, it is better to make our trees bushes. And the earlier the first pruning “for the bush” is done, the better: there will be no wounds on the trunk. In photo 32 - son Artyomka demonstrates a strong seedling; The red lines roughly indicate the required trimming. In photo 33 - son Seryozha holds an even more powerful, double seedling: Souvenir of the East is grafted onto the same rootstock with Hungarian pear-shaped. The seedling is trimmed and ready for transplanting.
For transplanting, I choose a cloudy, preferably rainy, day. Any loss of moisture for a transplanted tree is stressful.
Before digging, I take a brush and paint tiny marks on the stamps - with south side at the level of the root collar (we marked it in photo 63). You need to plant so that the mark is again from the south and again strictly at soil level. Why this extra work? The north wind burned the seedling on one side, and the hot sun burned on the opposite side. The root collar was breathing freely. The new place should be the same - this makes it much easier for the tree to adapt.
A seedling transplanted in this way will not only never die, but in most cases it will bloom a year earlier than the “spring” one.
Well, what to do if you are late with planting in early autumn, but there is an opportunity to purchase a good seedling? An inexperienced gardener plants, and you already know the result. The thrifty person digs in an inclined position, as the books teach (Fig. 5). It is important to meet four conditions:
So that the roots and half of the crown are covered with earth.
So that there are no air voids in the ground, otherwise the roots will become moldy.
And if the water doesn't stand, the roots will rot.
So that the mice don't get there. It is necessary to dig in places where there is no grass cover, and therefore no mice. For example, in a potato plot.
Do the digging as close to winter as possible so that the autumn rains do not rot the seedlings.
But the traditional, inclined trench has disadvantages. Usually, even before winter, the seedling manages to get used to the ground a little. And in the spring, before planting, it also grows roots. And then he was unceremoniously pulled - and again to a new place. But most importantly, it is very difficult to comply with all the conditions - there is a risk that the seedlings will ripen. Having rotted my pears in this way after an unexpectedly rainy late autumn, I began to dig in seedlings without risk - I came up with a vertical dig with planting in place (photo 34). The seedling has been sitting on the ground since late autumn permanent place, but the crown is half protected from frost by loose soil. If the top freezes, it’s not a big deal, everything is intact in the earthen cone. It's dry enough for the bark to breathe. And based on the survival of the tops and frost resistance, it is immediately clear. In the spring, the earlier the better, all that remains is to rake off the land.
Well, if you still decide to plant a seedling in the spring, then do it as early as possible: when the ground thaws enough for a shovel or two. And if the holes are prepared in advance, in the fall, you can plant even earlier. A race in time will give the tree at least some chance to finish the growing season by winter. But here I no longer give guarantees.
FERTILIZERS IN THE PLANTING PIT: GOOD OR DEATH?
Hundreds of times he told novice gardeners how to prepare a planting hole, how and where to fertilize. And it never happened again. The quality of the soil varies everywhere - from rich chernozems to gravel and sand. Different terrain, humidity - stagnant water or dry elevation. What general patterns or norms might there be?
But such recommendations are found in the literature. And they make you smile. Especially in applying fertilizers with an accuracy of grams per square meter. In general, for a hundred years now, textbooks have prescribed a standard “planting kit”: at least two or three buckets of humus and a complete set mineral fertilizers per planting hole. Many summer residents are at a loss: where to get so much fertilizer, what kind of fertilizer? Humus, and it is now “biting.” Just for fun, I calculated: a machine of manure costs the same as all the vegetables for the whole year for an average family!
Meanwhile, other well-known experts advise the exact opposite: do not apply any fertilizers to the pits. Examples are given when, due to the abundance of fertilizers, trees became fattened, were used as firewood, did not bear fruit, became very sick, or froze due to the extended growing season. “Dig planting holes so that only the roots enter, and do not add fertilizers to the holes. Otherwise, your tree will die or be sick for a long time,” writes our farmer E.I. Piskunov.
Many experienced gardeners say the same. From the very beginning, the roots of a seedling must actively develop - look for food, go deeper and wider. They do not grow in a fertilized pit, but simply “eat” and “drink”, waiting for handouts. The slightest stress - and the end of the tree.
So who is right? It depends on situation.
First of all, do not take any textbooks, especially European ones, literally. Look with your eyes and start from the condition of the soil and the specific area. There are different extremes here!
Planting an orchard at the Sayanogorsk aluminum smelter - three hundred trees - was not easy. My reputation is at stake. The place is open and windy. And instead of fertile land on the site there is solid gravel and sand: the bottom of an ancient reservoir. We had to create the soil artificially - planting trees in huge “pit pots”. A forced, risky technology, and later I abandoned it. But at that time it was standard. Soil analysis and recommendations were given by Abakan agroecologists.
The holes were dug with an excavator. They filled them with clay, imported black soil and a huge amount of humus - up to 200 kg per tree. I strictly ensured that the humus did not come into contact with the roots of the seedlings. The set of nutrients was enhanced by scattering complex mineral fertilizers around the tree trunks. There is little precipitation - it will not be absorbed immediately. But still the leaves on some trees turned black. Looking at the numbers of micronutrient deficiency, I sprayed the leaves of pears, apples and apricots with a solution of chelate ((chelates - organic compounds metals, usually salts of organic acids: acetic, oxalic, citric, etc. More natural for plants, better absorbed, have little conflict in solutions), iron and copper preparations.
Most trees feel satisfactory, bloom and bear fruit. A smaller part died due to frost and steppe winds, or perhaps just because of excess humus. Could these trees grow on sand and gravel without artificial soil? I don’t know for sure, there was no control, but it’s unlikely. I am sure that it was not in vain that I excluded direct contact of roots with fertilizers and humus. Pure humus is dangerous. I specially planted the seedlings in old humus - they barely grow and then die.
The opposite situation: you have fertile soil with good drainage. Look around: the trees grow powerfully, the grass is huge. And without analysis it is clear: any fertilizer here is overfeeding! All the seedling needs is not to dry out. The owners of such gardens should not feed the trees at all before they have given three good harvest. This will be discussed further in the chapter on nutrition.
Kuban and the Rostov region are famous for their fertile black soils. The trees there suffer from “gigantism” - hence, by the way, the constant cruel pruning. But the Soviet bureaucrats believed in their superiors more than in nature: there is a fund of fertilizers - if you please, use it up! And the agronomists poured in. The trees become fattened, they turn into firewood, they get sick, and they don’t produce a harvest for eight years. And then - it’s scary to imagine - under the ax, tens of hectares!
Now let's consider our usual situation: the soil is suitable, but not so hot - there is not enough nutrition. That is, a version of my garden. There are still scientific discussions going on about how best to fertilize. Some argue that mineral water should be poured from above, others - no, only deep into it. Some - that it is necessary to apply evenly, others - that locally, in “clumps” ...
I act simply: I take an example from nature. How does nature feed trees? From above, organic matter of fallen leaves and dead grass, with the help of microbes and fungi. So do I: after planting a seedling, watering and compacting the soil, I simply mulch trunk circle.
The best mulch is humus or compost, but grass and leaves are also suitable. I put a thicker layer, 6-8 cm. In summer, such mulch prevents the tree from suffering from drought. Sometimes I throw a handful of complex fertilizers under the mulch or scatter a scoop of ash, but more often I make do with organic matter alone: it has everything. I plant bent grass in the mulch. Worms, fungi and bacteria will gradually deal with plant residues, and the roots themselves will be able to take what they need. And by autumn the tree trunk circle will be covered with a carpet of bent grass.
CONTAINERS - THE FUTURE NORM FOR NURSERY NORM
There are no ideal seedlings for sale. But the method of growing with a closed root system is an order of magnitude better and more reliable than forcing two-meter seedlings and then selling them with short root cuttings. The majority of the Siberian markets have been undermined so far. But, thank God, advanced nurseries are already switching to container growing. It’s a pity that this applies mainly to ornamental crops.
Why are seedlings in containers still so rare? It's all about the price. A container seedling requires almost three times as much labor, plus the price of the container itself. Why bother when people are chasing cheap prices? But whoever buys a seedling in a container by paying double price will ultimately win. Most novice gardeners plant seedlings carelessly: they don’t straighten the roots, they definitely don’t see the root collar, and they don’t do any pruning. But the main problem with “naked” seedlings is that the roots are mutilated. The container seedling does not have all these problems: I carefully took it out and planted it in a lump. The survival rate is one hundred percent. Of course, you still need to trim it, but not necessarily before replanting.
I have wealthy people visiting me, but I haven’t met real gardeners among them until a large businessman from St. Petersburg arrived. It was a real pleasure to communicate with him. He knowledgeably asked about everything related to my work. I was pleased with the quality of the seedlings, but they were not suitable for long-distance transportation. And he made a special order: to grow seedlings in containers. Now I grow some of the seedlings this way. I share my experience.
A container is any container that is light and strong enough to grow and then transport seedlings to any distance. All Dutch ornamental plants, including conifers and trees, are sold in special technical pots made of thin cheap plastic - in them they were grown to marketable condition. I bought it and transplanted it immediately, without disturbing it in any way. root system. For fruit trees in areas with harsh climates, you can’t imagine anything better.
Excellent containers are bags made of polypropylene fabric, like those used for sugar or flour. Many of our nurseries sell seedlings in such bags with a volume of 3-5 liters. True, not all of them grow them there. More often they pack it there, digging it up in the field. But the roots don’t dry out like they do at the market - that’s great. Plastic paint buckets are very good (photos 32 and 33). And large nurseries sell young two-meter trees in huge plastic bags.
For us gardeners, the main values of container growing are a painless move and planting in a new place with absolutely intact roots. Such a seedling can be planted at any time of the year, except winter. Even in summer - if you water it well and shade it in the first weeks. But I still stick to the safest terms. My option is early spring and early autumn.
In containers you can root shrub cuttings and grow tree seedlings. You can first root in beds and grow in containers. You can immediately plant them for rooting.
The “from the garden” option allows you to preserve natural selection. First, we sow as many seeds or seeds as possible. In the fall we select the best of the best. We transplant them, always with a lump, into a container with a capacity of 5-10 liters, according to the size of the roots. Best time for this purpose - cloudy, rainy days of late August or early September: the period of autumn root regrowth. Further, the colder it is, the worse the root growth, which means the weaker the survival rate.
We bury the containers flush with the ground and water them well. Before winter, the plants take root firmly. Winter is the time of selection for frost resistance. In early spring - vaccination. Over the next summer, the seedling will develop, firmly grow into the soil of the container and acquire a marketable appearance. Although even here we partially damage the central root during transplantation - it has grown through the drainage hole, but the lush lateral roots remain completely intact.
Planting such a seedling in place is very easy, as discussed below.
Ideally, sow seeds and pits not in the garden bed, but directly in a container. There is only one problem: not every seed is a future tall and healthy seedling. Half of the containers may be left without plants. Therefore, sow 3-4 seeds in containers. If they sprout, leave the strongest seedling. This is the most established seedling.
I prepare soil for containers without any tricks: I take the top layer of soil. No additives or mineral fertilizers! If you feed it from the belly, the seedling grows disproportionately huge with the same volume of roots. The growing season is prolonged, vitality is clearly reduced. For me, this is no longer a product.
Usually, drainage is placed at the bottom of the pots: a layer of expanded clay, pebbles, or broken bricks. For indoor plants- Fine. But I wouldn’t recommend doing this in nurseries: it’s extra work. I tried this and that. In my version, the roots grow through the bottom holes. The seedlings receive additional development and grow more powerful - just like in a garden bed.
Now let's summarize everything that has been said.
REMINDER FOR PLANTING SEEDLINGS IN HARSH CLIMATES
It is best to plant a seedling early in the fall. The time of transplantation is determined as follows: after the end of fruiting, two to four weeks are added. In Siberia this is usually August 25 - September 15. From this time until the cold weather, rapid growth of new roots occurs, the seedling has time to prepare for winter, and in the spring it begins to grow early and powerfully.
The second option is to dig up a seedling after the leaves have fallen and the first frost and bury it. And better - vertically, in place. Otherwise, you take a risk - proven by bitter experience. I wouldn’t have invented the vertical trench if I hadn’t rotted the seedlings in the usual way!
The third method is to dig up the seedling and plant it in early spring, as early as possible, just before the start of sap flow. The deadline is when the soil has thawed 1-2 shovels. That is, when it is already possible to dig up a seedling with a large lump of earth.
At least for all stone fruits, and better yet for all crops in general, prepare gentle mounds 30-40 cm high. And better yet, in advance, in the fall. Always plant in hills, and never in depressions!
If the soil is normal, although not black soil, do not put any fertilizers in the planting holes.
Seedlings without a good coma, with bare roots, are already a big risk. It happens that the earth does not hold together - the lump falls apart. I immediately replant them in a container, immediately dousing the roots with water and pruning them harder than usual.
Before digging, make a mark on the root collar at ground level so that you do not bury the seedling deeper under any circumstances.
In a new location, the seedling should be positioned in the same way relative to the cardinal directions as before transplantation. You can argue with this, but my experience is for it.
Before planting, shorten the crown by about half. If you managed to dig up a large lump - by a third. But no less!
Proper planting of an ordinary bare-root seedling is difficult to do alone. Better together. One holds the seedling strictly at the required level. To do this, you need to press the seedling against a pre-driven stake. Another straightens the roots, covers them with the first layer of soil, waters them so that the soil sinks well, then completely fills them and waters them again. Then both mulch a little and trample the mound. The main thing here is to keep the seedling from settling and sinking. After trampling, the root collar mark should remain at the same height above the soil surface as it was.
Place organic matter on top in the form of mulch. But make sure that the layer of mulch is not piled tightly onto the trunk! This is also fraught with damping off. Step back 15-20 cm from the trunk. If the mulch is dense (humus, compost), be sure to make grooves in it to allow water to drain away from the trunk. Over the years, place the mulch further and further from the trunk - along the external projection of the crown. This is where the feeding roots are concentrated.
It is much safer and more effective to plant in cloudy, or better yet, rainy weather.
A seedling planted with leaves must be shaded in hot weather (and this also happens in September!). Arrange sloping canopies to cover the seedling from above and on the south side. After two to three weeks they can be removed.
Hide less winter-hardy varieties from the wind behind the house, barn, or high fence, and form them into a bush from the first year. We'll talk about how in the chapter on pruning.
One-year-old seedlings take root better than two-year-old and especially three-year-old seedlings. How older seedling, the larger the root ball left when transplanting.
And finally - again and again: truly resilient and long lasting tree- a seedling grown from a seed and grafted here, on the spot, which is never transplanted. It has a full-fledged tap root - main source strength. This root has a special role: to penetrate as deeply as possible into the moist subsoil, saturated with solutions, and supply them to the tree with a guarantee all year round. In harsh climates, no humus or fertilizer can replace this role.
I repeat and will repeat my call to all gardeners from serious intentions: Grow your own trees! Take every opportunity not to disturb the nature of the tree!
Note from the site author. In principle, this is basically a retelling of planting methods adopted in modern gardening. You can read about this on the page "Planting" garden crops", if you overcome V.K.'s prejudice towards book literature and southern or European technologies. I think you do not have such prejudices and will find much more material there than is presented in this chapter. Only they are written more professionally and competently.
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This book - unusual phenomenon: an example of a bold experience of successful practice, a burst of scientific freethinking and a boy’s dream. She opens her eyes to a lot! It turns out that not only selection should promote fruit crops in a more severe climate, be it dry heat or frost in the forties - there is also adaptive agricultural technology. It turns out that many varieties can be adapted to harsh conditions and their resilience potential can be revealed. It turns out that we simply do not know how to create long-lasting, strong and stable trees - we never set such a goal. Well, let's learn this! Sincerely yours, Nikolay Kurdyumov
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