DIY kitchen set drawings and diagrams. How to make a kitchen set with your own hands? Detailed instructions. Installation and fastening of furniture

It’s interesting that a person who has money did everything with his own hands..

And I got a wonderful result...

This kitchen was not made by a professional furniture maker or cabinet maker,

Everything about Blum products is great. Use the proprietary Blum Dynalog program - it will do everything for you and, as a result, you will receive drawings with all the markings necessary for installing the fittings:

I will tell you the design details below, using photographs of finished products as an example.

Purchase of kitchen appliances

I recommend not leaving this stage until last. At a minimum, it is advisable, if not to buy, then at least clearly decide what you will buy later and download all the documentation for these products. Oven, stove, sink - although they are made according to some kitchen standards, they may have design features. Making a kitchen without even imagining what equipment you will put there is wrong, you will suffer. For example, I didn’t take everything into account with the oven - that’s why instead of the front under the oven, you still see a hole (you need to mill the front a little until you get the hang of it).

I bought a Gorenje oven and induction hob, an Eleyus hood, a Franke Java sink, a faucet with a Grohe Blue filtration system (the first in Ukraine in this version, By the way). $3200

Order firewood(chipboard, fibreboard, facades)

Previously, I sincerely believed that furniture production required large workshops, expensive machines, and dozens of staff. Of course, this happens, but many people also work in garages. In order to produce furniture, you do not need to saw chipboard and make facades - this is exactly what dozens of people do in large workshops on expensive machines. That's where we go.

The result of the design should be an Excel file containing a list of all the panels we need. Like this:

In a relationship slab materials, my choice was this:
Egger Cappuccino 18mm chipboard as cabinet material
Egger Platinum White 16mm chipboard as material for drawers
Egger fibreboard for cabinet back walls
Painted MDF as facades

Now look at the nuance. The company we are going to has a chipboard warehouse program - these are the thicknesses and colors that they constantly keep in stock in large quantities. If the chipboard you need is included in the warehouse program, everything is ok, you will pay for as many square meters as you need. But if it’s not included, you’ll have to buy chipboard sheets. One sheet, in the case of Egger chipboard, is 5.8 sq.m. And if you need 6.3 sq.m. you will still have to buy two sheets.

Companies that are engaged in cutting and edging chipboards and producing facades can today be found in almost any regional center countries. You give them drawings and money. They give you all your firewood, packaged and delivered to your apartment.

Cutting and edging chipboard, fiberboard, facades, delivery - all this cost me $650.

Order accessories(handles, legs, tandem boxes, etc.)

No problem. But it’s better not to scour all sorts of Leroy Marlens, since they mostly present an unworthy mass market. It is better to find a decent furniture fittings supplier with a large assortment and buy everything there.

I bought:
12 Blum Tandembox Intivo Full Extension Drawer Sets
2 hinges + bluemotion for the door under the washbasin
1 roll-out grid with closer for the oven
All this cost $1200

Purchasing tools

In general, any handy guy already has some tools.
I had to buy a Makita screwdriver, a Bosch jigsaw, clamps and a Wolfcraft attachment.

I’ll warn you right away - there’s nothing to do in assembling furniture without a screwdriver. There's absolutely great amount screws. And Chinese disposable crafts for 40 bucks will not help you. A screwdriver is for a man what a dildo is for a woman. Don't skimp. Treat yourself. It will come in handy.

So, at the beginning of the process we have:

First of all, let's take the firewood to the balcony and sort it into pedestals. Fortunately, each element has a sticker corresponding to the part number in the above list of parts:

Well, let's start assembling. Almost all Italian cabinet furniture is assembled using dowels (chops) - an advantage this method The disadvantage is that no parts of the fasteners come out, the disadvantage is that furniture assembled on dowels is not dismountable. Furniture makers prefer confirmat for such purposes - it is much less demanding in terms of tolerances.

The connection on the dowels requires an accuracy of 0.5 millimeters in fitting the mating holes. This result can be achieved without using special tool, but with huge hemorrhoids. Therefore, the following tool was purchased:

Drill the first holes in the side of the cabinet:

So, our task is to assemble the first cabinet and understand whether our arms grow from our ass, or from our shoulders.

We take the sidewall and make holes that will be connected to the bottom with dowels. Pay attention to the drill depth limiter on the drill. I hope there is no need to explain why it is needed. Buzzing:

Here's what we got:

The holes on the sides are 40 mm. from the edges, central in the middle. The width of the sidewall (this matters, I’ll tell you later) is 560 mm. The additive operates in both drilling and copying modes. Copy to the second side. This is the principle of operation of the filler for drilling counter holes, I show it using the example of a drawer:

Let me remind you that when connecting with dowels, the accuracy of drilling the counter holes is important (plus or minus half a millimeter). With these tools, I never had a problem with this - the parts fit into each other (moaning) with little effort. This device costs nothing - 40 bucks. It will save you a lot of time - just for fun, I tried to make manual markings on test pieces of chipboard - this is many times more time-consuming and much more likely to make an error.

Here is the bottom of the box with counter holes already drilled for the sides:

We drilled 20 holes and voila, our hands are not growing out of our ass:

Okay, let's move on. Now we need to equip the cabinet with closers, legs and a back wall made of fiberboard.
There is nothing complicated in installing door closers - everything is done in the same Blum Dynalog program, you get the exact dimensions of the points where the guides will be attached. There is one rule here - measure seven times, cut once:

Simple as two and two. If you make a mistake within 3 millimeters, everything will still work perfectly. This is a wonderful technique.

Mounting the legs is also not difficult. The main thing is to set yourself a standard for their location and follow it on all cabinets:

Another cabinet (the widest, 80 cm) is ready. It already has guides and legs.

There is absolutely no need to worry about some flimsiness of the product - as soon as the back wall is mounted, the cabinet will be filled with pleasant strength. The initial stage of attaching the backdrop is shown here - the bottom is secured with two screws on the sides, the diagonals and corners are measured, the top is secured to the drawer with a clamp. Now you can safely peel off the screws (after pre-drilling with a two-mm drill):

Well, there seems to be progress already:

We are preparing the facades. On the left on the facade there is a drilling jig (the same Wolfcraft), to the right there is a manual countersink:

This is where the jigsaw came into play - I used it to saw holes for the sockets, after which I asked for silicone to seal the open cut. Well, I hung up the filter control unit and the filter holder itself:

When all the cabinets were ready, it was time to reunite them. At this stage, it is important to adjust the legs to bring them level - that is, the top of the cabinets should lie in the same plane. We clamp the cabinets together with clamps, and be sure to make a “lining” - wooden block, into which the drill will come out. If this is not done, there will be serious chips at the outlet hole.

I brought a tabletop, Luxeform Boston 38 mm. I asked to make cutouts, they did it, but look how original (did I place the commas correctly?):

In principle, they are right. Transporting a massive table with a full cutout is a risk – it may break. I had to work with a jigsaw. The cut must be siliconized - open chipboard end will swell quickly if this is not done. Well, here you can see how the issue with the obtuse angle was resolved - everything is quite simply leveled out. Naturally, I first made a drawing with geometry calculations.

The question of making a kitchen set yourself often arises after renovations have been carried out in this room. It often happens that a set that seems to be suitable in price and design does not fit into the actual dimensions of the kitchen. There are a lot of offers these days for making custom-made headsets, but the cost is quite high. Having assessed the prices of furniture, as well as their financial capabilities, some owners come to the conclusion that they can save a decent amount if they build a kitchen (hereinafter we mean its furniture content) on their own.

If you have at least minimal experience in working with carpentry tools and in processing wood-based materials, then install it yourself the desired design according to the personal project drawn up, this is a completely realistic task. It can be assembled with your own hands from ready-made parts made in a workshop according to a specific drawing, or made “from scratch” from natural wood and furniture panels of various types.

Why is it better to make a kitchen yourself?

Objective reasons for making your own kitchen according to your own sketches and drawings are the following:

• It is possible to create furniture cabinets and shelves that are ideal for a specific room in terms of its parameters and configuration. In addition, when creating a kitchen sketch, you can immediately determine convenient location all kitchen accessories, number and shape of furniture.

• Considerable cost savings are achieved, since a ready-made set will cost significantly more, although it can be made from the same material, which you can choose yourself. Everything is understandable - in addition to the material, you have to pay for the work of the craftsmen, transportation costs, and a whole list of all sorts of other taxes and deductions known only to accountants. All this is included to one degree or another in the selling price of the kit.
• The exclusivity of the design of the furniture set is ensured.
• It will probably not be an exaggeration to say that for the majority of real owners (let’s not take into account pathological lazy people) such independent furniture making becomes a very exciting activity, an opportunity to show their skills and creativity. Well, the finished kitchen furniture, made with one’s own hands, is an indisputable source of pride.

As you can see, there are quite enough reasons for making a kitchen set with your own hands. Well, their totality should generally dispel all doubts. Naturally, if the owner is not a complete layman in these matters.

Creating a future kitchen project

First step - sketch

You should start creating a kitchen set with a project, which is best done in the form of a sketch, and then an exact drawing. The sketch will help you visualize what the kitchen will look like, and the drawing with the dimensions taken for it from the location of the set will become a guide on how to order material for further work, and for assembling parts in single design.

The sketch takes into account the features of the kitchen space and the possibilities of placing furniture in it. If a project is being developed for a standard kitchen in a multi-storey building, then the most popular options are either a kitchen wall installed in one line.

Taking measurements and taking into account design features

In order to meet all the necessary requirements when creating a project, you should make careful measurements of the kitchen installation area. When conducting them, the following room parameters are taken into account:

• The length and height of the walls along which it is planned to install the kitchen unit.
• Wall length from front door to the corner of the room.
• Distance from window opening to wall.
• When taking measurements, it is necessary to separately indicate at what distance from adjacent walls the communications are located - sewer and water pipes, as well as the gas main.

Knowing these parameters, you can proceed to determining the size of furniture cabinets, which should both fit into the designated area and be convenient to use.

An example of a sketch project for a corner kitchen with dimensions

The following parameters are standard for a kitchen set:

• For floor cabinets:

— height - 850 mm;

— depth can vary from 500 to 600 mm;

— width - from 300 to 800 mm.

• Wall cabinets may vary slightly in size, as their parameters depend on the height of the ceiling and the preferences of the kitchen owners:

- their standard height is considered to be 850 mm, but it can be increased to 900 mm if you plan to raise them to the ceiling, or reduced to 800÷700 mm;

— cabinet depth - 300 mm;

- the width, as a rule, corresponds to the width of the floor cabinets planned under the wall cabinets - this way they look more beautiful in one “ensemble”. Although this requirement is optional.

In addition, when drawing up the drawing, the following factors must be taken into account:

• The location and size of the sink, as well as the fact that a separate cabinet or section of the countertop will have to be provided for it.
• On both sides of the sink there should be cabinets (free sections of the countertop) with a width of at least 300 mm. Their surface will add comfort when using the sink, and the cabinets themselves will serve as storage kitchen utensils. In addition, one of the cabinets can be used to install a washing machine or dishwasher.
• The upper part of the headset must include at least two sections.
• It is necessary to provide space above the hob for.
• When drawing up a plan, you should also immediately indicate the location of the refrigerator if it is installed in one of the headset lines.

Optimal distance between sink and stove

• It is very important to maintain the distance between the sink and the hob, since according to standards it should be at least 450÷500 mm.

• The distance between the hob and the hood should be 750 mm for a gas stove and 650 mm for an electric stove. This will ensure good removal of rising vapors and proper operational safety.

A sketch of the kitchen can be drawn by hand on a checkered sheet, which will help maintain the proportions of the actual dimensions of the area where the furniture will be placed. A more “advanced” option is to use one of the 3D modeling computer programs, for example, “PRO 100”. In the latter case, it will be possible to take into account every millimeter of the allotted area.

On the Internet you can find many interesting applications that allow you to plan the placement of furniture and get ready-made drawings of each of the parts

If the sketch will be drawn up manually, then it is additionally necessary to make drawings of the furniture. These graphic documents contain the exact dimensions of the structure, since all its components will be manufactured according to them.

If drawing up a drawing seems to be an impossible task due to inexperience, then you can use one of the options presented on the Internet. Surely, if you wish, you can find options both for standard kitchens of the main series of high-rise buildings, and for non-standard kitchen premises.

When choosing a specific project, you must immediately take into account your manufacturing capabilities individual elements designs. For example, shelves that have curved shapes, since this will require not only a special tool, but also sufficient skills to work with it.

Chipboard cutting map

Based on the drawn drawing, it is necessary to draw a map chipboard cutting. It will help you decide on the quantity required material, will reflect the distribution on sheets of all the blanks necessary for the set.

To create this graphic document, you need to know the standard parameters of the chipboards on which the kitchen unit parts will be projected.

On sale today chipboards with polished and laminated surface having different thickness and linear dimensions.

An example of a cutting card for chipboard sheets to fit the dimensions of furniture blanks

Chipboard boards can have standard thicknesses of 8,10,12,16, 18, 22, 25, 28, 32 and 38 mm. For the walls and shelves of the floor part of the set, a material with a thickness of 16÷20 mm is most often chosen, and for wall cabinets, 16 mm chipboard is suitable. If desired, you can choose a larger sheet thickness.

Chipboard sheets of various thicknesses

The linear dimensions of polished boards are usually 2440×1830 or 2750×1830 mm, and those of laminated material are 2800×2070 and 2620×1830 mm. The parameters of the slabs are designed for standard furniture blanks, so you can select options from them that will be cut with a minimum amount of waste.

Example of laminated chipboard worktops for a work desk

Table top for working area kitchens are purchased separately. The consumer can choose from different models by external design options and thickness. The recommended thickness is 38 mm, especially in the area where the insertion is planned hob or washing. However, judging by the reviews of both craftsmen and kitchen owners, even cheaper high-quality countertops with a thickness of 28 mm serve quite successfully for years without requiring any replacement.

But making a decision (in a fit of unbridled savings) to make a tabletop simply from an ordinary sheet of chipboard, even if a large load is not planned on it, is unacceptable. The operating features of this area require a special wear-resistant coating and a special configuration of the front edge, which does not allow the accumulation of moisture from drops flowing from the table. A well-made one is completely closed on all sides, and only the end cuts remain unprotected, which must also receive the necessary processing, but only during furniture assembly.

You can draw up a drawing of the slab cutting map yourself or use a computer program for this purpose. Many companies selling furniture chipboard(MDF), provide a free service for drawing up such maps, on the basis of which cutting is then carried out.

Both wall and floor cabinets can have separate or common walls, depending on how they are located in the set.

The lower part of the set, installed on the floor, most often uses common walls that divide the cabinets into sections. Thus, this part, after fastening the workpieces, becomes non-separable. However, if you plan to maintain the ability to rearrange the kitchen furniture, then each cabinet should be assembled separately. But in this case, of course, the cost of material for blanks will increase.

So, in the chipboard or MDF cutting chart, according to the developed drawing and dimensions of the structural parts, the following parts of the structure should be placed:

• Side walls of the headset.
• Separating walls that will separate the common floor and wall structure into separate cabinets.
• Blanks for shelves.
• Rear walls. They are best made from more lightweight material- it can be fiberboard or thin 3÷4 mm plywood.
• Front doors.

On the cutting map, it is best to indicate, in addition to the dimensions of the parts, their numbering or names. This will make it easier to navigate when cutting slabs and during assembly.

The tabletop is selected separately. Its length should correspond to the length of the floor part of the set, since the hob and sink, as a rule, cut into its surface, and the washing machine and dishwasher are installed under it.

In addition to furniture blanks, you must purchase the following parts to assemble the structure:

• An edge of the corresponding chipboard color, which is used to decorate the front ends of the walls and shelves of the set before assembling it.
• Fittings: hinges and handles.
• Masking strip for the gap between two parts of the table top and end caps.
• Drawers will require slides (pull-out mechanisms).

• Furniture metal fasteners and wooden dowels.
• Metal or plastic corners for fixing perpendicularly located parts.
• Adjustable legs, with which you can set the floor part of the headset strictly horizontally.

If you plan to make doors that open in a special way, for example, by lifting up or folding, they will require special mechanisms - there is no shortage of such products in our time.

Now, knowing what parts and materials will be needed for the manufacture and assembly of a kitchen set, you can go to a specialized store furniture materials, where you can usually immediately order cutting of slabs according to the cutting map provided. If you wish and have a special tool, you can cut and process the edges yourself. But you also need to be able to do this, have the appropriate quality tool. That is, it is better not to take risks and entrust this process to professionals working on high-precision equipment.

Carrying out installation and assembly operations

Tools for work

To assemble the blanks into a single structure, you will need tools, some of them are in every home, others will have to be purchased. But they will definitely come in handy later for other repair or construction work.

So, the tools you need to prepare are:

• An electric drill and a set of wood drills, including confirmation ones for furniture screws.
• Bits of different sizes for screwdrivers, including hexagons.
• Construction square.
• Level.
• Clamps, at least 4 pieces.
• Pliers and hammer.
• Scissors.
• A syringe gun for applying “liquid nails” glue and sealant.
• Iron for gluing edges.

Kitchen set assembly

The most difficult thing is to start the assembly process, because craftsmen who do not have experience in this work do not know where to start. Once the first steps are completed, the process will go faster. In fact, the blanks are a kind of “constructor” from which the kitchen must be assembled.

Illustration	Brief description of the operations performed
	The first thing to do is to sort out the blanks, arranging them by size, guided by the project drawing, which also shows all the parameters of the headset. After the parts are distributed into piles, it is recommended to sign them, indicating their belonging - walls, shelves, etc. Such preparatory activities will greatly simplify the work.
	After cutting, the ends of the panels facing the facade, as well as those intended for cabinet doors, must be covered with a special edge tape of a color that is in harmony with the main shade of the set. The tape is fixed using a heated iron. When the tape is heated, it should protrude slightly beyond the edges of the panel. After the material has cooled, this excess must be carefully cut off immediately. sharp knife. An ordinary stationery knife with a new blade will be suitable for this purpose.
	The process begins with assembling the floor part of the headset. Therefore, it is necessary to take the lower panels of the structure and immediately attach them to them adjustable legs, if they are provided for in the project. To do this, the panels mark the installation locations of such supports. Then the legs are applied to the marked points, and the points are marked on the panel with a pencil through the holes provided for fastening. Next, blind holes for fasteners are drilled along the marks. It is best to first place the legs on glue, and then additionally screw them with self-tapping screws. The legs can be attached in different ways - this depends on the selected model of the part. The legs should be secured to all bottom panels.
	The next step is to assemble the walls of one of the cabinets. To make them stand at right angles to each other, you can use perforated corners made of metal 2 mm thick, so the connection must have a certain rigidity. Of course, it is recommended to first check these corners to see how perpendicular their shelves are. You can come up with another “conductor” that will help align the two mating panels exactly at right angles. The corners are fixed at the top and bottom at the junction of the panels using clamps.
	Then, the fastened walls must be screwed together with screws, for which socket holes are drilled using a commercial drill. The drill is designed to form a hole that has different levels different diameters required for this euroscrew. Thanks to this configuration of the socket, the screw will tightly hold the two panels, and its head will fit into the chipboard flush with the wall surface. It is certainly possible to apply regular drills, but you will have to constantly rearrange them, and the work will go wherever slower. A special drill is not so expensive, especially since it will have plenty of work to do when assembling the set.
	The panels must be fastened at three points by drilling sockets at a distance of 50 mm from the top and bottom edges, as well as in the middle of the joining pieces. To accurately mark the location of the hole, 8 mm should be retreated from the side edge, with a chipboard thickness of 16 mm and 9 mm, with a panel thickness of 18 mm. To screw a furniture screw into the screwdriver, a hexagonal bit attachment is installed. All chipboard panels are fastened together in a similar way.
	To make it clearer, the illustration shows the principle of connecting two perpendicular parts with confirmations.
	The bottom panel of the cabinet is also first fixed to the side walls with clamps, and then twisted with furniture screws.
	Another way to mutually fix the panels can be wooden choppers - dowels with a diameter of 8 mm. They are installed in sockets drilled in the end of one panel and along the edge of the other. The dowels are carefully driven into these holes, previously coated with glue. This installation method is more complex and requires perfectly precise marking of the drilling holes.
	In order for the marking to be accurate, after gluing the dowels into the lower end of the wall, it is laid with a shift on the bottom panel, leveled and tightened with clamps. After this, on the bottom panel, focusing on the already installed dowels, mark the points at which holes are drilled, with a diameter and depth corresponding to the size of the fasteners. Then, the holes are filled with glue and the side wall of the cabinet is joined. In order for the panels to be assembled exactly at right angles, the metal corners should be fixed to them in the same way as in the first option using clamps. They can be removed after the glue has dried.
	After the walls are fastened to the bottom panel, the back panel, made of fiberboard or thin plywood, is nailed with small nails, staplers, or screwed onto small self-tapping screws.
	In the upper part, the side walls are connected to each other by two narrow boards, which will give rigidity to the design of the cabinet and will be the basis for securing the tabletop. They are installed on the inside of the walls and are also screwed with confirmatory furniture screws. You will need 2 of them for each side to be fixed.
	If the cabinet is going under drawers, then before fastening the walls to the bottom panel, their internal surfaces are marked, and according to the markings, retractable mechanisms are installed on them (they can have different designs). It is clear that the installation of these guides on opposite walls must be strictly symmetrical. Of course, this process can be carried out already assembled closet, but this is inconvenient and quite difficult to do - it’s both dark and cramped.
	If you plan to attach front doors to the cabinet, then before installing hinges, you need to mark and arrange mounting slots for them in advance. To drill the mounting holes, a special cutter of the required diameter is used. When marking, it is necessary to maintain a distance from the edge of the panel to the edge of the mounting socket - it should be 5 mm.
	To ensure that the hinges are installed evenly and the doors are not skewed, the wall and door are laid on a flat surface, and markings for arranging the mounting slots and mounting holes are made on them simultaneously. A socket of the required diameter is drilled on the side wall, and the corresponding part of the loop is installed into it. Then, focusing on it, the attachment points of the reciprocal mounting pad on the door are marked. Holes for self-tapping screws are drilled according to the markings. After this, the hinges are screwed on and their operation is checked. Further, they can be temporarily dismantled and installed permanently after assembling the cabinet.
	This photo shows the installation of the assembled cabinets into the overall structure. In this case, each of the floor cabinets has its own walls, but it is possible that the walls act as partitions in the overall structure. However, it must be taken into account that in the latter case, a higher load will fall on the partitions, so it is not recommended to have many shelves and drawers. The assembled structure is leveled, adjusting the height of the support legs if necessary.
	Next, the front doors can be finally fixed to the walls of the cabinets (cabinets). Installing them will not be difficult, since the necessary holes have already been prepared for their fastening. The door handles are screwed on.
	The next step is to install a worktop on the cabinets that are level and fastened together. It can be solid or have different connecting joints - straight or diagonal, depending on the layout of the kitchen unit. Having prepared and adjusted the parts of the countertop, mark the areas where the sink and hob will be embedded.
	The edges of the sink, depending on its model, can be installed on top of the countertop or flush with it. The illustration shows the mortise version kitchen sink. It is best to mark the window for it using a pattern, which manufacturers often include with the sink. If there is no cutting diagram, then you should do it yourself: place the bowl on a sheet of cardboard and trace its outline with a pencil.
	The opening for the kitchen sink is cut using an electric jigsaw. First, a through hole is drilled on the marking line in the tabletop - it is necessary for inserting a jigsaw file. Some craftsmen prefer to attach masking tape to the outer marking line, which will prevent the edge from chipping and will be a good guide when carrying out work. In the same way, a hole for the hob is marked and cut.
	An important nuance. In a cut-out opening for a sink or hob, the end walls are completely defenseless against moisture penetration. And water that has leaked onto the chipboard and penetrated its structure can cause it to swell and deform. That's why experienced craftsmen It is strongly recommended to perform another operation. A strip is applied to the cut ends of the opening silicone sealant, and then distributed so that the entire cut is densely covered with this composition. After this, without waiting for the sealant to cool, you can proceed to installing the sink or hob.
	Attaching a kitchen sink to a countertop window can be done in different ways, depending on its model. Most often, such sinks are attached to the back of the countertop using special adjustable hook brackets, which are included in the delivery package.
	On the underside of the supporting sides of the sink, before installing it in the prepared opening, it is necessary to apply a layer of sealant that will close the gaps formed between the sink and the countertop and prevent water from leaking.
	Before the final installation of the tabletop, its cut ends must be covered with special aluminum overlays that exactly follow the shape cross section panels. These pads are available left and right. Before installing the overlay, a strip of silicone sealant is applied to the end...
	...which is then distributed over the entire surface in an even layer. This is easy to do with your finger dipped in soapy water.
	After this, the overlay is installed, aligned exactly along the edges and fixed with self-tapping screws - for this purpose there are holes on it. That's it, the end is protected. Similarly - on the other edge of the tabletop.
	Next, the tabletop is installed on the assembled floor structure the headset and is fixed with self-tapping screws from their inside through the crossbars discussed above.
	Of course, they always try to make the countertop solid, that is, consisting of one piece. The length of standard panels (up to 4000 mm) usually allows this. On a straight section, it is best to do without joints. But if the set has a corner configuration, then you will have to make a perpendicular joint. The gaps between the individual parts of the tabletop are closed with a strip specially designed for this purpose. Installation of the strip is similar to the end strip. But in this case, this connecting part already has a somewhat named configuration, ensuring the joining of the rounded front side with the cut end.
	You can decorate the edge of the tabletop adjacent to the wall in different ways. Some people prefer to frame the work surface with a special plinth, while others prefer to frame it with a strip of the same material from which the table top is made (as shown in the illustration). Still others even install it as an apron; they fix an entire panel of the tabletop on the wall with the curly edge up, connecting it to a horizontal surface.
	To install wall-mounted cabinets, special adjustable hangers can be used, on which you can move the cabinet along the metal profile, as well as pull it closer to the wall, eliminating unnecessary gaps between surfaces.
	To secure the hangers to the cabinet, you need to cut slots for them in the back wall of the cabinet. Brackets are inserted into them and screwed from behind to its side wall.
	The brackets fixed to the cabinet are inserted into the profile, which is pre-fixed with dowels to the wall along the entire length of the set and, of course, is aligned strictly horizontally. Thanks to the profile, all cabinets will be located on the wall at the same level, and they can be moved slightly if the need arises during the final installation of the entire set.
	The assembly of table drawers follows the same principle as floor cabinets and wall cabinets. The difference is that the four walls of the structure are fastened together. To facilitate the process, it is recommended to mark the workpieces, that is, mark the area of ​​their joint on the parts to be fastened, placing one of them end-to-end on the edge of the other, and then draw a line with a pencil.
	Further, in the marked area thin drill it is necessary to mark two holes, exactly in the middle between the edge and the drawn line, departing from the upper and lower edges of the workpiece by 20÷25 mm. The same process must be carried out with the other part of the box - these will be its front and back walls.
	Next, the parts with drilled holes are pressed against the end of the side walls, and through the drilled holes they are fastened together with furniture screws.
	When all four walls of the cabinet are connected to each other, the bottom of the structure, made of fiberboard or plywood, is nailed using nails 20 mm long. At the same time, the resulting box will be “automatically” aligned strictly according to the shape of the rectangle. If you plan to store fairly heavy kitchen utensils in a drawer, then the bottom can be screwed on with 3x20 mm self-tapping screws in increments of about 50 mm.
	Guides for drawer mechanisms are usually attached to the lower side edge of the drawer. But there are other designs of similar runners. In any case, they must be combined with the counterpart parts of the mechanism attached to the walls of the cabinet body.
	The lowest drawer is installed first. After the operation of the retractable mechanism has been checked, the drawer is removed from the body to install the front panel and handle on it. The width of the façade overlay must be equal to the width of the cabinet body. First, the location of the handle is marked, then the facade is fixed on the front wall of the drawer using clamps, and through the markings, through holes are drilled through both panels.
	Next, two holes are drilled on the inside of the box, which should be located at a distance of 80÷100 mm from the side edges. The holes in the drawer wall should be through, and in the front panel they should be deepened by 8÷10 mm. The diameter of the holes should be 8 mm. Then glue is poured into the hole and wooden dowels are carefully driven in. The last step is to screw a handle onto the box from the inside, which will tighten the wall and the facade together. It is best to remove the clamps after the glue has dried.
	Once the bottom drawer is completely finished and installed, the same process is performed with the drawer that will be located above it. But façade panel, of course, is fixed on it taking into account the height of the front of the lower drawer. The rest of the retractable parts of the structure are installed in the same way.

* * * * * * *

As can be seen from the description, when assembling the blanks into a single set, you will have to deal with quite a large number of small, difficult nuances. But, at the same time, this work is extremely interesting.

In addition, by making your own kitchen you can save a lot of money. family budget. To make sure of this, it is necessary, just for fun, to find out the cost of everything necessary for independent work and calculate the purchase budget, compare it with the cost of the finished headset.

Find out how to do it in a special article on our portal.

As a bonus, we offer you to watch an interesting video. It shows the process of self-manufacturing an original kitchen set, which is completely uncomplicated even for a novice craftsman, in which exclusively natural lumber is used.

Video: DIY kitchen - no chipboards, only boards and timber

In our country, people assemble furniture in their apartments on their own. Whether this is the right decision must be determined by each owner for himself. In our article we will describe how to assemble a kitchen set with your own hands.

To get a quality result, any work requires preparation. Kitchen assembly is no exception.

Step 1

Check the availability and functionality of all necessary tools. Charge the screwdriver battery and prepare the jigsaw. Electrical equipment can be replaced mechanical tools, but this will only increase the time and complexity of kitchen installation.

You may also need:

Step 2

Review the delivered set of furniture for defects and the presence of all elements. If you find a shortage or mismatch, you can contact the supplier or buy in addition what is missing yourself.

Step 3

Read the instructions for assembling the kitchen furniture set you purchased. In kitchens produced by different manufacturers, there may be some installation features that should be taken into account.

Step 4

Remove everything unnecessary from the room to make room for assembly, remove all garbage. Floors must be clean.

Note! To avoid damaging the cabinets during installation flooring, you can cover the floor with a tarpaulin or other cloth.

After preparing and checking the tools, furniture elements and premises, you can begin the assembly itself.

The nuances of assembling a kitchen set

In order to properly assemble the kitchen, you must first familiarize yourself with the features and installation rules.

1. Installation of kitchen furniture begins from the corner, if the set is corner. Linear kitchen They begin to assemble from the cabinet that will rest against the wall.

   

2. It is not recommended to assemble all cabinets at once. Only after one assembled module is installed in place do they begin to assemble the next one. This helps avoid cluttering the space.
3. There should be a distance of half a centimeter between the countertop and the wall.

   

4. You should not install fronts on the upper cabinets right away. Without doors it will be easier to hang the modules.
5. Drawer slides are attached to the inside surface of the side walls until the cabinets are assembled.

   

Kitchen installation

Opinions are divided on whether to start installing a kitchen with upper or lower cabinets. Some experts believe that already installed floor cabinets can interfere with the installation process hanging cabinets. According to other furniture makers, you need to start from the bottom row, from which the height of the upper cabinets is already measured.

You can choose the option that is convenient for you. We will describe the first case. But first, we need to tell you the general principle of assembling cabinets and drawers.

How to properly assemble headset elements

One of the most convenient devices in a kitchen set are drawers. If we're talking about about narrow cabinets, for example, about bottle holders, then the guides for the drawers are secured in them before the box itself is assembled. If the cabinet is wide enough, then installation of all fastenings for drawers is carried out after assembling the module.

At the preliminary stage, the crosspiece from the door hinges is also attached to the designated places. After this, they proceed directly to assembling the box.

Step 1. Take the side wall of the box and place it end-to-end on a flat surface so that the front part looks up.

Step 2. Join the cabinet wall to the bottom at right angles and secure the connection with confirmations. In factory kitchens, holes for Euroscrews are usually already prepared.

Step 3. The other side wall is attached in the same way.

Step 4. After this, two upper strips are installed if the lower pedestals are assembled. Wall cabinets have a lid installed.

Note! The ends of the side walls should be flush with the bottom, as well as the lid or top strips.

Step 5. Place the cabinet with the front side down on a flat surface and measure its diagonals, the difference between the lengths of which should not be more than 1.5 mm.

Step 6. Fix the back wall of the cabinet with staples or nails, placing them at a distance of 7 cm from each other. To make the back part more durable, some experts use screws instead of nails and furniture staples.

Note! The cabinet above which the sink will be installed does not have back wall, but is often equipped with an additional stiffening rib.

Step 7 Adjustable legs are attached to the bottom of floor cabinets. The distance from them to the nearest edges should be about 50 mm. Legs can be metal or plastic.

In the first case, they perform not only a supporting, but also a decorative function. Upon completion of kitchen installation, plastic products are covered with a plinth strip. Suspended structures are equipped with loops for mounting to the wall.

The drawer is assembled according to the same principle.

Step 1. Four planks are connected to each other at right angles to form a box.

Step 2. Diagonals are measured, the lengths of which should not differ from each other.

Step 3. The guides are fixed to the side walls of the box.

Step 4. Mount the front of the box using screws. Sometimes the front wall of the box can serve as a facade. In this case, it is attached to the side crossbars using an eccentric. But such a design is rarely found in modern kitchens.

We measure the diagonal, both diagonals should be the same

It is better to assemble the drawers after the upper cabinets and lower cabinets have been assembled and installed.

As noted above, so that the lower row of cabinets does not interfere, many experts recommend hanging the upper cabinets first.

First of all, correctly mark the mounting location. To do this, set aside the height from the floor at which the bottom of the cabinets will be located. If the person who will work in the kitchen most often has average height, then for the bottom of the cabinet it is recommended to measure 1.3 - 1.4 m. Then, from this mark, the height of the cabinets themselves is also set upward and the line where the fasteners will be installed is marked. The line must be smooth and horizontal, which is checked using the mounting level.

Note! The distance between the tabletop and the upper section should be about 0.6 m. Therefore, if you decide to start installation from the lower cabinets, then measure this distance upward from them to select the mounting height of the upper cabinets.

You can hang cabinets in different ways:

• the traditional option involves the use of mounting loops;
• in the second case, a rail is used, which is mounted to the wall, and a kind of hook attached to the back wall of the cabinet and clinging to the rail.

Note! An exhaust air duct and a gas pipe often pass through the upper section of the headset. For this reason, in all cabinets it is necessary to first cut out holes for these communications using a jigsaw or hacksaw. All cut areas must be treated with sealant.

The first method of installing wall cabinets includes the following steps.

• along the line drawn on the wall, mark the place of the first fastening and drill a hole with a hammer drill;
• fasteners are inserted into the hole;
• hang the cabinet on one hinge on the mount and, continuing to hold the module, level it using a spirit level and mark the place where you need to drill a hole for the second fastener for this cabinet;
• After installing the second fastener, hang and finally level the cabinet.

This procedure is repeated for all cabinets.

The second mounting method makes it easier to install the upper section. It should be taken into account that in this case it is not possible to attach the cabinets flush to the wall. This installation of upper cabinets, although expensive, is very simple:

• first, a special metal strip is attached along the line drawn on the wall;
• special hanging devices like hooks are screwed to the upper corners of the back wall of the cabinets using screws;
• hook the hooks onto the rail;
• level the cabinet.

When the entire top row is mounted and leveled, the cabinets need to be tightened together with furniture screws.

Installation of lower cabinets

After the installation of the upper sections is completed, you can begin installing the floor cabinets.

Note! In the lower cabinets you will also need to make holes and recesses for sewer, water and gas pipes, as well as for connecting electrical appliances to the network.

Step 1. Starting from the corner, the cabinet is installed in place.

Step 2. Adjust the legs of the cabinet.

Step 3. Other cabinets are also installed and adjusted in height.

Step 4. They tighten the adjacent cabinets with a clamp, and then with a furniture tie.

After this, the tabletop is installed on the cabinets. First you need to cut out a hole in it with a jigsaw for washing.

1. To do this, lay the tabletop on the cabinets the way it will lie after installation.
2. Then choose the location of the sink and mark it with a pencil.
3. A hole is cut out using a jigsaw along the marked contour in the table top.
4. Treat the cut with silicone sealant.

If necessary, a hole is made in the countertop for the hob and for communications.

After this, you can put the table cover back in place. This is often done using furniture corners that are screwed to the side walls of cabinets. The tabletop is laid on the cabinets and leveled.

If the cover of the cabinets consists of two parts, then they are connected using metal strips in the following way:

• Using a hacksaw, the plank is cut to the width of the tabletop;
• coat one surface of the plank with sealant;
• attach it with screws to the cut of the tabletop;
• Lubricate the other surface of the metal rail with sealant and immediately join it to the other part of the table top.

After this, fix the tabletop on the cabinets by screwing screws into the holes in the furniture corners.

Final stage

Completing the installation does not require as much physical effort as it does require careful work. After all, the appearance of the headset depends on this stage.

1. At the junction of the countertop and the wall there is a gap, which is covered with a plinth.
2. After this, the doors are hung. They are adjusted using special hinge bolts.
3. At the same stage, drawers and built-in appliances are installed, lighting fixtures are installed, and the facades and basement plan are installed.
4. I put it in place and connect the sink.

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

The kitchen is now ready for use.

Also read on our website an article about do-it-yourself kitchen facades.

Video - How to assemble a kitchen with your own hands

Video - How to assemble a kitchen with your own hands. Hanging cabinets

Video - How to assemble a drawer

Video - Inserting a sink into a countertop

If you have free time and you want to use it to make something with your own hands, then you have opened the right and useful page in this regard. Here you can learn how to make kitchen furniture yourself using available materials, hand and power tools, as well as scrap lumber.

Sample

• In order to do kitchen furniture With your own hands, you will have to not just cut out even panels, but make holes in them for connecting to each other and for installing fittings. In this matter, accuracy is very important, and making such measurements each time using a tape measure or caliper is too time-consuming and inconvenient, and there is a high probability of errors. To avoid such troubles, you can purchase or make your own template for marking and drilling holes.

• To make such a template, you will need two regular school wooden rulers 20 cm long and a school protractor. Now these rulers need to be glued together in the shape of the letter T, just make sure that the angles correspond exactly to 90⁰. Now on the riser, from the beginning of the intersection, you need to make marks at a distance of 8 mm, 16 mm, 32 mm, 50 mm, 70 mm, 100 and 120 mm, drilling holes in them 2 mm in diameter for a pencil.
• Now, let's see what these distances are needed for: the 8-millimeter mark is needed for end drilling for Euroscrews or confirmat (Eureka); The 16 mm mark is the thickness of the part itself, and 32 mm is the thickness of the two parts. The remaining holes are needed for marking the canopies and retreating from the edge of the part. As you understand, the price for such a template will be purely symbolic, but it will function no worse than a professional one.

Roller guides and drawer dimensions

• You can learn how to make kitchen furniture with your own hands only if you can accurately install the roller guides for the drawers. Modern cabinets can’t do without such accessories, so let’s try to derive a general formula for installing them. In addition, without an accurate calculation, you will not be able to correctly install the drawers in the closet, which means that the furniture will turn out to be defective even if you have a strong and beautiful frame.

• We continue to consider the topic of how to make kitchen furniture with your own hands and take as an example an ordinary cabinet for various kitchen utensils, which is usually found in cupboards. So, let’s assume that the height of the side of our cabinet is 734 mm with four drawer fronts, h (height) of the plinth is 70 mm and the gap between the fronts is 3 mm (3 × 4 = 12 mm). Now we can calculate the height of each facade - 774-12-70 = 652 mm and divide by the number of drawers - 652/4 = 163 mm.

• Considering that all the drawers should be interchangeable in this case, you need to take into account the extreme position of the drawers and the overlap of the drawer facade with the frame of the cabinet. The extreme position here will be at the upper and lower cabinets, where the lower façade should cover the bottom, and the upper façade should cover the connection under the tabletop.

• The distance between the center line and the bottom of the guide is 18 mm, as can be seen in the photo of the drawing, and this bottom will coincide with the bottom of the box. The screw head is at most 1.5 mm thick, but we will add 4 mm in case the facade is not made of 16 mm, but 18 mm slabs. This means that the mounting height of the first guide will be 18 + 4 = 22 mm, and if from the floor, then 22 + 16 (bottom) + 70 (base) = 108 mm.
• Now, having these calculations in hand, we can derive a constant value - 22 + 16 (bottom) = 38 mm. Let's calculate one more value - the distance from the lower façade end to the bottom of the drawer - 38-18 = 20 mm. We remember that the constant for the guide is 38 mm (this is the distance from the lower end of the facade to the axis of the guide).

• Continuing to discuss how to make kitchen furniture yourself, let's calculate the height of the sides of the drawer and the facade attached to them and start from the top. Pay attention to the photo above, and you will see a jumper under the tabletop, which serves to rigidify the structure, holding the sidewalls at the same distance. Now we need to calculate the height of the sides of the box, but so that it does not rest against the connecting bar and, given that all our facades are the same, the drawers must be interchangeable.
• If our facade is 163 mm, then, in fact, sides with a height of 50-60 mm are quite enough - the retractable mechanism will function perfectly. But if, with a low side, you pile all sorts of little things into the cupboard, then the objects will simply fall out.
• The minimum distance between the connecting bridge and the casing body must be identical to the diameter of the roller on the guide, that is, 18 mm. To avoid problems when the chipboard swells (what if this happens), we add another half of the size - 9 mm and in the end we get a 27 mm gap.
• The height space for each drawer is 163 mm (facade) + 3 mm (gap) = 166 mm, and we have already determined the distance from the lower edge of the facade to the bottom - 20 mm. Now let's calculate the distance from the top edge of the facade to the top of the drawer - 16 mm (lintel) +27 mm (provided gap) = 43 mm, but from here we remove 3 mm, which we leave for the gap between the facades and get 40 mm.
• Now we calculate the universal height of the side - 163 mm (facade) -20 mm (lower overlap) -40 mm (upper overlap) = 103 mm including the bottom. The side of the box will rest on the fiberboard bottom, which is 3 mm thick, which means the net height of the side will be 100 mm. From here we can deduce formula - h (box side) = h (facade) - (20 mm + 40 mm) (lower and upper overlaps) - fiberboard thickness for the bottom of the drawer.

Advice. Sometimes in the kitchen the bottom drawer is made with a front half higher than the rest, and you can also make the same cabinet. Simply separate the distance for a large front (taking into account the 3 mm gap), and divide the remaining distance by the required number of drawers.

Designer products for the home are expensive, but sometimes you want to decorate your apartment with something unusual. IN small spaces kitchen furniture assembled from scrap materials with your own hands can turn out to be not only a decorative element, but also a good decision in organizing space. At the same time, you can save on buying a headset.

Similar articles:

What kind of kitchen are we planning to make?

Before you start working on self-creation furniture for the kitchen, you need to think about its style. Even in a standard city apartment, the room can be decorated not just with homemade furniture, but with designer items.

To decorate the kitchen in fashionable styles loft or industrial style, non-standard and comfortable furniture made from pallets is suitable: it’s not difficult to connect ready-made pallets with your own hands. Without additional processing, they can be used to create a table, seats or a soft corner. To make cabinet furniture, the pallets will have to be disassembled. The decor is like this unusual cuisine can also be used metal parts(for example, car parts).

You can make your own kitchen furniture in a rustic style. This is the name for interiors using lightly processed natural materials(stumps, wood cuts, stones, etc.). In order to harmoniously combine functionality and beauty in a product, you will have to independently create sketches of each piece of furniture.

The easiest way to create furniture with your own hands at home is in the styles of Provence, country, shabby chic and similar naive rustic styles. For the manufacture of cabinets, sideboards, and tables, both old Soviet furniture made of chipboard and old items that will have to be restored and refinished are suitable. They can be supplemented with homemade shelves, stools or benches made of solid wood (boards, pallets, unusual boxes).

Preparation of drawings and diagrams

An important detail of the kitchen interior is a system of wall and floor cabinets, into which you can build in a stove and sink, install a dishwasher and a refrigerator. This is the largest item in the kitchen, so making a sketch must begin with its development. Do-it-yourself cabinet kitchen furniture can be made linear or corner, and in a large kitchen you can install an island.

To draw up a diagram, you need to measure the length of the wall where the set will stand. The height of shelves or wall cabinets is selected individually, taking into account that the topmost item of the set should be easy to reach by hand. The bottom of the wall cabinet should be at least 50 cm above the tabletop, and the height of floor items should be 85-90 cm.

On the drawing or diagram it is necessary to mark the locations of sockets and communications. A sink, a gas or electric stove, and a refrigerator are attached to them. In the free places you can place work tables.

When drawing up a diagram upper tier you need to take into account the need and location for installing the hood, marking communication pipes or other irremovable interior details. When assembling furniture, you will have to make holes and recesses in the corresponding parts of the cabinets. The layout of each individual cabinet takes into account its dimensions in length, width and height, as well as the number of internal shelves and the distances between them.

In addition to drawing the furniture, it is worth making a general plan of the kitchen. On it, mark the location of other pieces of furniture: dining table, racks, shelves, etc. It should be taken into account that from the cabinets of the lower tier the set to another piece of furniture should be at least 1.5-2 m. In a small kitchen you can make folding and retractable tabletops and seats.

Materials

Homemade furniture can be made from a variety of materials:

• housings for large audio speakers;
• interior doors;
• wine barrels;
• scraps plastic pipes different diameters;
• details of an old cabinet, wall, wardrobe.

The decor is particularly varied homemade furniture. To decorate items made from old furniture with your own hands, they also use unusual fittings. Handles and overhead moldings can be removed from old objects; car parts or self-sawing, carved wood parts can be used for this purpose.

Furniture surfaces are finished with self-adhesive film, decorated using decoupage or painting, painted and varnished. They put tiles and plastic on the countertops and decorate them with mosaics. The tabletop decor can be repeated on the apron set, and used to decorate empty walls and doorways.

Required Tools

To make kitchen furniture with your own hands, you will need:

1. drill with a set of drills;
2. screwdriver and various bits (6-sided bits are also required);
3. cutter for cutting out cups for hinges;
4. jigsaw;
5. building level;
6. corner clamps;
7. self-tapping screws and confirmations;
8. edge tape and iron;
9. construction knife;
10. sandpaper.

Depending on how the surface will be decorated, you may additionally need brushes, a construction spatula, files, etc.

Assembly of headset elements

Cabinets and wall cabinets are assembled in the following sequence:

• Parts are cut from a sheet of chipboard or cut from the walls of old furniture, solid wood, etc. The dimensions of the parts for the set must exactly correspond to the drawings.
• The elements of each cabinet are marked so as not to be confused during assembly.
• Before assembling, select recesses in the walls for frog hinges. The distance from the center of the cup to the edge is 21-22 mm.
• The parts need to be connected so that the sections of the vertical sidewalls are under the tabletops. The bottom of the cabinet is closed from below in the same way. Furniture corners are used for connection: screw the fasteners onto self-tapping screws on the inside of the cabinet. The connection can also be made using dowels (plug-in tenons hidden in the thickness of the wood).

Place the cabinet in a vertical position and mark the locations for mounting supports under drawers or shelves. Fasten the guides from the inside with self-tapping screws so that the screws do not go through to the front side of the walls. To ensure that the drawers are level, you need to check that the guides are level and level.

Turn the cabinet face down and secure the thin plywood or fiberboard backing with screws or furniture staples. On wall cabinets attach hangers.

Installation

Before installing self-made furniture, you need to complete renovations in the kitchen. First you need to install the lower tier of the kitchen unit. The linear version begins to be mounted from any extreme block. To install an L-shaped set, the corner cabinet is installed first. The remaining cabinets are placed according to the developed plan.

At this stage, it is important to level all the blocks so that the countertops form a continuous surface. It is desirable that there are no differences with the edges of the slab if it is not built into the cabinet. Connect the blocks together with ties.

If you plan to install a common countertop, then the cabinets are mounted without it, and this element is laid on top only after connecting the cabinets. The facade doors need to be hung last and aligned in height.

After installing the lower tier, hang the upper cabinets. To maintain the same distance between them and the tabletop, measure a convenient height at which the bottom of the hanging elements will be located, and draw a straight line, leveling it. Determine the locations for the holes for the hooks and attach the fittings to the wall. For concrete walls the safest and most reliable fastening is dowels, but in wooden house It is better to prefer nails about 10 cm long. After installing the hooks, the cabinets are hung on the wall and the doors are attached to them.

The remaining elements of the updated kitchen are placed in pre-planned places. Shelves and racks are attached to the wall in the same way as wall cabinets.

What do you do with old furniture?