Rabbit cage drawing. Step-by-step instructions for making rabbit cages with your own hands. Cages for adults

Almost every owner country house there is a small farm. Some people prefer to raise cattle, others poultry, and others like to raise fluffy and adorable rabbits. But for any household it is worth considering comfortable living conditions. If you have chosen rabbits and decided to make cages for them with your own hands, you should decide in advance where to install the cages, their sizes and internal filling.

On your own personal plot cages with living creatures can be placed:

on open air;
indoors, such as a barn.

All cages for rabbits, depending on their location and breeding method, are divided into three types:

year-round outdoor seating;
year-round indoor maintenance;
combined maintenance (outdoors in summer, in a barn in winter).

Many rabbit breeders believe that the best option for placing cages is to arrange them outdoors. This content has a beneficial effect on animals, promotes the development of immunity to diseases, and the presence of beautiful and high-quality hair. Farming in street conditions increases the productivity of females, increases the number of rabbits in one litter and promotes their endurance.

When choosing a place to install the cage, you should consider:

air humidity. It should vary between 60-75%. That is, the place should be chosen on a hill and away from bodies of water;
exposure to direct sunlight, which has a negative effect on animals. It is better to place the cages under trees or behind an artificial fence;
the presence of drafts, which are common cause rabbit diseases. Air movement should not exceed 30 m/s. Do not forget about high-quality ventilation in cages. Otherwise, the fumes will undermine the health of your pets.

Street cages

All rabbit cages may differ in:

sizes;
structures;
manufacturing materials.

They are simple, two-tiered with additional amenities, such as heating. What kind of cage you need to build for your farm largely depends on the breed of rabbits, their size, the availability of building materials and personal preferences.

The advantages of setting up rabbit hutches outdoors include:

availability of large space;
ease of caring for animals;
the ability to build convenient and affordable structures.

To build outdoor cages, you will need to prepare reliable materials. They must be resistant to moisture, frost and sudden temperature changes.

Important: the cage for rabbits must protect the animals from penetration by predators such as dogs, cats, foxes, and rats.

To prevent your pets from being bothered by direct Sun rays and precipitation, make a canopy with a large canopy over the building. If you are breeding animals all year round, it is necessary to take care of insulating one of the parts of the cage. Despite the fact that these animals tolerate low temperature air, it is necessary to create a cozy and warm place for them where they can bask.

Important: Special attention paid to the insulation of queen cells and compartments with small rabbits.

Cages placed indoors

Structures placed in sheds can be made of a single metal mesh attached to a wooden frame. The floor must be made of wood.

If you raise rabbits indoors, it should be:

well plastered;
ventilated;
illuminated in winter time- at least 10 hours.

It would be nice if south side There was a window on the entire wall of the barn.

Combined rabbit breeding option

For the combined option of breeding animals, mobile cages are most suitable. In the warm season, it will be convenient to take them outside, and in the cold season, install them indoors.

If funds allow, you can make two versions of cages: one for the street, the other for the barn. But this option is unlikely to be suitable for those who breed a large number of animals.

Cell design and size

Rabbit cages can be single or multi-tiered. Depending on who they are intended for (fawns, young animals, adults), their design depends.

Single-tier and multi-tier structures

Single-tier cages are placed above the ground at a distance of 80 cm. The roof of the structures is covered with slate or metal sheet.

Important: if the cages are located outside, it is better to cover them with slate, since the metal gets very hot, and these animals do not tolerate heat well.

To make it easier to care for animals, it is better to make the tray with a gutter for easy cleaning. In single-tier structures, metal pallets are installed for storing pet waste.

Multi-tiered cells can consist of two or more tiers. On each tier there is required amount sections. They can be made from bars, galvanized mesh and boards. These materials are suitable for the construction of rabbit hutches both outdoors and indoors.

Multi-tiered products are often called sheds. In them, the tiers are placed one above the other. This helps you save free space. Ideal option are two-tier structures. They provide convenient care and monitoring of pets.

When building multi-tiered cages, there must be a space of at least 15 cm between each tier. Above each cage it is necessary to install metal roof, and in the space between each tier there are inclined ebb tides. This is necessary so that the animals’ waste does not fall on the lower tiers, does not linger on the roof, but flows into specially arranged drains behind the cages.

Some people prefer to use removable plastic trays in their cages. They are convenient and easy to use. Such pallets can be installed directly in the cages themselves, or on runners under the grated floor.

Cages for breeding

In breeding cages, it is necessary to install special chambers on the sides or provide space for a mobile queen cell. If you choose an inpatient department, then the removable floor, walls and ceiling are made solid. They must be well insulated so that the young offspring do not die from cold and draft. In the rest of the cage, the floor can be made of metal mesh or wooden blocks.

The mobile queen cell is a completely closed box with an opening for entry. This box should have an additional side door so that the queen cell can be conveniently cleaned and dried. This design is convenient in that it can be rearranged into different cells as needed. They are also much more convenient for changing bedding and cleaning. The building is insulated for feeding with shavings or hay.

If you are expecting offspring in the cold winter, the mobile queen cell should be placed in an electric heating pad to create comfortable conditions for the female rabbit a few days before the birth.

In winter, it is practically impossible to do without heating the uterine tract. If you do not have an electric heating pad, you can use a regular light bulb, which should be kept constantly on during this period. The light bulb must be placed in a compartment located behind the wall of the uterine chamber.

Attention: when choosing to heat the queen cell with an electric light bulb, take care of fire safety. The chamber in which the lamp will be located should first be sheathed with thin metal.

There is another method of heating this part of the cage using a heating cable for underfloor heating. It is fixed to the bottom of the queen cell, and a removable floor panel is placed on top of it.

Important: if you prefer this type of heating, make sure that the cable is intact and without defects. Such a heating system can be connected to a thermostatic regulator. This will allow you to regulate the temperature in the uterine compartment, depending on weather conditions.

If the cells are in a barn, it is better to use a mobile queen cell. Then it will be easier to ventilate and clean them outside. If you decide to make a built-in uterine chamber, the floor in it should be removable.

In two-section single-tier cages, the length of each section should be at least 100-120 cm, and the depth - 55-65 cm. The width of the built-in uterine chamber should be 35-40 cm.

Cages for young animals

Rabbits aged from three to five months are called young animals. They are kept in groups of 8-20 pieces. The height of the walls of the cages must be at least 35 cm. The total area is calculated based on the fact that there should be 0.25 square meters per animal.

Multi-tiered cages for young animals are installed outdoors and rise 75 cm from the ground. If the floor is made of wooden blocks, it is recommended to install a metal mesh on top. This way, you will protect the rabbits, who will gnaw the tree and scratch it with their paws. For older rabbits, you can make a mesh floor.

In winter, cages with young animals must be well insulated. For this, hay or straw is used, laid 2 cm thick.

Cage for adult rabbits

Cages for medium-sized adult rabbits should have a depth of 60-70 cm and a length of 100 cm. These are the minimum sizes for comfortable breeding of animals. They can be made using the same block structures. That is, in each block there are two cells separated by a wall.

To mate animals, it is worth considering combining two cages into one using a removable partition. For adult rabbits, it is recommended to make the floor from galvanized mesh.

Attention: adults must move freely around the cage. Their growth and development will depend on this.

Cage with aviary for walking

Cages with an aviary for walking are suitable for both young animals and rabbits of reproductive age. This design should consist of two separate compartments with a partition, a roof and a mesh enclosure. The two compartments are connected by a round or square entrance cut into the rear wall of the structure. Thanks to convenient design, the animals move easily inside, which contributes to their proper development and growth.

The cage with a walk can be any size. It is good if its depth varies between 60-65 cm, and the depth of the enclosure - 80-100 cm. Such structures consist of single-tier blocks consisting of two separate cells. A mesh enclosure is attached to the back of the cages if there is space.

Cages for giant rabbits

Since the giant breed is a large rabbit, the cages for them must have appropriate sizes. Giants grow to considerable sizes. Their length is 55-65 cm, and their weight varies from 5.5 to 7.5 kg. When building housing for large breeds, it is worth starting from the weight and height of the animals.

For one adult, a cage is required with dimensions of 96 cm in length, 70 in depth, and 60-70 cm in height.

For young animals of the giant breed, housing may be a little simpler. For eight animals you need a cage with an area of 1, 2 square meters. m. Its height must be at least 40 cm.

Important: giant rabbits have an impressive weight. Therefore, the bottom of the cells should be pre-strengthened. When making a mesh floor, preference is given to thick wire, 2 mm thick. To prevent the mesh from bending under the weight of the animals, it is necessary to secure bars underneath it. If you plan to install plastic or rubber trays in cages, it is better to make a solid field under them

California rabbit cage

Californian rabbits are quite popular among breeders. They are absolutely unpretentious in care and resistant to severe frosts. Adults reach a length of up to 50 cm, and their weight ranges from 4.5 to 5 kg. The cage for this breed should be 0.5 sq.m. Since this breed's paws are covered with coarse hair, the floor can be made of lattice or mesh.

If you breed rabbits only for meat, they can be kept in a hole measuring 200 by 200 cm and about a meter deep. The walls of the pit should first be reinforced with slate, and boards or mesh should be laid on the floor. For safety, a small fence and roof. This method of breeding animals is as close to natural as possible, giving good results. Rabbits love to dig holes in the ground. At proper care, they will delight their owners with numerous offspring.

Making your own cells

Having decided to build cozy houses for rabbits, it is necessary to decide in advance on the type of structure, its dimensions and materials of manufacture. You will need to prepare:

hacksaw;
hammer;
corner;
plane;
screwdriver

Any type of cage will consist of: a frame, walls, floor, ceiling and doors. As a rule, when building houses for these animals, metal mesh or natural wood is used.

As for materials for construction, you should prepare:

large sheets of plywood;
slate;
nails and screws;
bars;
slats;
galvanized mesh.

To make doors, you will need to additionally prepare curtains and latches.

Having chosen wood as the main building material, it should be sanded and sanded in advance. All sharp edges are processed so that the animal does not get hurt. Since rabbits wear down their teeth on wood, there should always be branches in the cages. Otherwise, they will simply chew on their housing.

Feeders and drinkers for rabbit cages

In addition to the construction of cells, it is necessary to carefully consider their internal arrangement. Food and water should be provided to the animals in a comfortable way. Feeders can be purchased at finished form in the store, or do it yourself.

Rabbits need daily large quantities clean water. If you just pour it into a plate, dirt and debris will get into it, or animals will constantly spill water. When choosing a drinking bowl, you should decide on its:

manufacturing materials;
location;
volume;
type of construction.

Attention: if the drinking bowl is made of thin plastic, animals will quickly gnaw through it. And in metal cans the water will become cloudy and dirty.

Automatic drinkers

Automatic shelves are most often used on farms where there are a lot of livestock. This design is quite simple and consists of: a bowl connected to a container. The bowl of water is always inside the cage, and the container is outside. It is easy to use and durable.

The principle of operation of this drinking bowl is quite simple: as the water from the bowl decreases, a new portion from the container enters it.

Attention: making such a drinking bowl with your own hands is quite difficult. It is easier to purchase it ready-made in the store.

Nipple drinkers

Nipple designs are practical and convenient. The liquid does not spill into them and remains in the tube until the animal begins to drink. The only drawback of such a product is that in the cold season the liquid can simply freeze in the tube.

Vacuum drinker

You can easily build a vacuum drinker with your own hands from a simple plastic bottle. You can make such a drinker as follows:

A bowl with a flat bottom should be fixed at a height of 10cm from the floor on the cage so that one half of it is inside the structure and the other is outside.
Let's take a simple one plastic bottle for one or two liters and fill it with water. We close the bottle with a lid, turn it upside down and place it on a bowl. We secure the bottle to the cage with clamps or wire.
Carefully unscrew the lid and the bowl will automatically fill with water. As the animals drink water from the drinking bowl, it will be replenished with new liquid to a certain level.

Throttle drinker

The throttle drinker works on the principle of a conventional washbasin. You can also make it yourself. To do this, you will need to take a plastic bottle, make a small hole in the cap and attach the choke. A rubber gasket can be used as a valve. It will hold the throttle well and close the hole in the lid.

The drinking bowl is attached in a vertical position to the cage at a height of 30 cm from the floor.

Hanging drinker

A hanging drinker is also made from a bottle. It is suspended horizontally on a wire, at a height of 30 cm from the floor. To make this design, it is necessary to make a cutout in the bottle, 10 cm wide along the entire length, retreating only 5 cm from the bottom and lid of the product.

The hanging drinking bowl is attached to the outside of the cage - with a cut hole facing inward.

Feeders

It is worth considering the design of feeders at the design stage of cage construction. You can feed your rabbits using:

At the right approach When breeding rabbits, you can achieve good results. If the cages are built in accordance with all standards and requirements, and feeders, drinkers and queen cells are correctly located in them, your pets will feel as comfortable as possible, will quickly develop and gain weight.

Experienced rabbit breeders should know how rabbit cages are built with your own hands. Only in this case can you be sure that long-eared pets will not be in danger from low-quality materials or incorrect manufacturing process. There are no particularly specific conditions for keeping rabbits; you just have to take into account that their wild counterparts live in ordinary burrows. Since there is nothing complicated about how to build a rabbit cage with your own hands, even novice rabbit farmers can do it.

Cell components and materials used

Any cage intended for rabbits must be equipped in a certain way. It must contain the following parts:

The frame and supports on which the entire structure rests are made of wooden blocks. To ensure that rabbits kept outside are protected from rodents, cats and dogs, it is worth placing their cage at a height of about 70 cm from the ground.
Walls made from plywood, boards or mesh. For beauty, you can decorate the walls outside plastic or wooden slats. For ease of cage care façade parts make two doors (one from a mesh, the other from a board).
Floor most often made from slats or mesh. Some rabbit breeders install a solid floor, only placing a mesh in the back to remove waste through it. There are adherents different materials, who learn from their own experience what is best for animals kept in different conditions.
The roof is most often made of the same material as the walls, and to protect against conditions environment When kept outdoors, you can install additional covering from any roofing material.

When creating cages for rabbits, it is not recommended to use metal. In the heat, the iron becomes hot, which causes discomfort for animals, and in the cold they can easily freeze to such a coating. Even when the most simple cell for rabbits with your own hands, you need to make sure that all parts are smooth and not dangerous for injury. Any defects in the mesh should be eliminated, and the wood should be treated with sandpaper.

Various designs

Before you make a cage for rabbits with your own hands, it is worth finding out what designs exist for keeping them. Several types of structures are now known:

1. An ordinary cage for keeping rabbits is represented by a kind of box on high legs with two doors. Inside, the space is divided into a feeding and nesting compartment, and a manhole is equipped between them. Cages should be equipped with feeders and drinkers of various designs, as well as sufficient space for the animal to be active. If you make the most popular rabbit cage with your own hands, its diagram should look something like this:

Some sizes can be increased slightly, based on the breed of rabbits, but in most cases these are the parameters that are suitable for adults.

Of course, there are some differences when creating cages for young animals, pregnant and lactating females, and adults, but in general they are all built according to the same scheme. To keep two individuals in one cage, it is worth slightly increasing its size.

2. The design of the cell proposed by I.N. is considered very complex. Mikhailov. Mikhailov cages for rabbits are entire mini-farms or, as they are called in scientific sources, reproduction units. Its units are equipped ventilation systems, original feeders, many manholes and shelves, electrically heated uterine compartments and drinking bowls, self-removal systems for manure, etc. The head farm is constantly improving its cages, so followers should regularly visit the authors' farm to keep up with the latest developments in the field of accelerated rabbit breeding.

3. Unlike the previous unit, the design proposed by another author, N.I., has taken root among the people. Zolotukhin. Creating a Zolotukhin cage for rabbits with your own hands is not a very difficult process, and besides, the author does not even think about hiding his ideas. From above, its design looks like this:

The floor is made of plywood or flat slate, not from the grid. Mesh, about 10-15cm wide, is only used on the floor at the back of the cage, as this is where rabbits urinate most often. Zolotukhin’s designs are three-tiered: two cages in three floors, with each upper floor moved back by the distance of the grid in the floor - so the waste products of rabbits do not interfere with the inhabitants of the lower cages. Also, a distinctive characteristic of these cages is the absence of a stationary queen cell: in winter, a burrow house is placed in the cage, and in summer, the female rabbit makes a nest right in the hay.

Craftsmen create other designs with different amounts tiers and with different equipment, using combinations of the most suitable, in their opinion, components of the cage and building materials.

Stages of creation

It is worth considering in detail the process of creating the simplest single cage for a rabbit (more complex designs are also based on this approach):

First you need to choose a place where the rabbitry will be located. It should be protected as much as possible from wind and drafts.
The next thing you need to create a rabbit cage with your own hands is drawings. They take into account the purpose of a particular cell, its different contents, structure the whole structure. When determining the size, you should rely on the size of a specific breed, but most often they take the size of 150*70*70 cm.
Next, a frame of beams is made according to the dimensions. If in the front part the height of the cage is usually 60-70 cm, then in the rear part the height is taken less (so that the roof is tilted).
The frame is sheathed with plywood, boards or other selected material. Inside, the cage is divided by a partition into nesting and feeding compartments, and a hole with a diameter of 20 cm is cut out in the partition. To prevent rabbits from gnawing the partition, it is better to line the hole with tin.
After the walls, they begin to make the roof (for ease of maintenance, it is better to make it removable).
Cages are hung on the façade doors, and the door to the aft compartment is made of mesh, and the door to the nest compartment is made of boards.
When keeping rabbits outside, you can attach an additional structure made of mesh for walking to the back of the cage. If you carefully think through the design of ladders and shelves, you can provide the rabbit with the opportunity to sometimes eat pasture.
tall and solid pallet(this is important both for the pet itself, since its paws do not have pads, and for the owner, so that the contents of the cage are not scattered around),
absence of sharp elements, slippery surfaces, parts treated with varnish or paint for the safety of the big-eared animal.

Cages are usually purchased for residential use because they are quite beautiful. But beauty does not always mean convenience for a pet, and therefore it makes sense to think about how to make a cage for a decorative rabbit with your own hands. You can easily make a cage that will be similar to the purchased version from a fairly high rectangular basin (to create a tray) and galvanized mesh with cells no larger than 25*25 mm.

This mesh bends easily and does not break, making it easy to make a parallelepiped without a lower part, and insert the lower ends of the wire into pre-made holes on the side of the basin. There is a door on one of the walls. To prevent the floor from being slippery, you can pour sawdust into the cage or put corrugated cardboard on the bottom. At the end, you need to place a drinking bowl, feeder, ladder and other entertainment for your eared pet in the cage.

You can build cages for rabbits with your own hands from scrap materials: waste boards, plywood, chipboard, slate, bricks, metal cuttings, tin, etc. The design of the cages also varies, but it is better to choose one that will not take you a lot of time to make and will be convenient for feeding rabbits, inspecting them and regular cleaning.

Types of cages for rabbits and possible materials for DIY work

Not all types of cages can be made with your own hands, but many of them can definitely be made if you know the sizes, have drawings and basic skills. So, what types of houses for the eared tribe exist?

By size and height:

simple one tier,
bunk,
three-tiered,
multi-tiered.

For which rabbits:

for young animals,
females,
decorative,
giants and dwarfs, etc.

What materials can it be made from:

tree,
metal (iron, etc.),
metal profile, etc.

Options can be both summer and winter. There are types for keeping outdoors or in an apartment. They can be monolithic or portable, especially if the rabbits are dwarf and kept at home. The houses can also be fattening houses. There are also industrial buildings, but we will not talk about them.

Some options for homemade rabbit houses in the photo

Wooden with mesh
Combined wood and mesh
From metal profiles and wood using sect
Made of wood

Drawings with dimensions of some types of cells

2 tiers
Mikhailov's cage
Simple scheme
Zolotukhin cell

General step-by-step instructions for making it at home

To start rabbit farming, you don’t need any special investments: you can easily make cheap cages for rabbits, drinkers and feeders yourself, hay and branches can be prepared in the summer, root crops and vegetables can be taken from your own garden. The main expenses will be required only for concentrated feed.

Each cage should contain rabbits of the same sex, approximately the same age, weight and temperament

It is recommended to place adult rabbits and female rabbits with offspring in one- or two-section cages. Standard sizes correct cages for rabbits: length about 100-120 cm, height 50 cm, width about 70 cm. It is better to keep young animals in a group cage, the size of which corresponds to the number of rabbits. For example, for ten little rabbits, a house with the same height and width as indicated above, but up to 170 cm in length, is suitable. It should be remembered that rabbits of the same sex, approximately the same age, weight and temperament should live in each cage.

Even novice rabbit breeders will find it easy to figure out how to build a rabbit cage consisting of two sections.

Step-by-step production of cages for rabbits:

When keeping rabbits outdoors, the cages should be installed on bars so that they rise seventy centimeters above the ground. This will protect the lop-eared ones from rodents and pets, and it will be much more convenient to maintain the houses. By constructing a cage from scrap materials, you get almost free original house for your pets.

Other options for rabbit houses

If the proposed tips do not adequately describe the picture of the upcoming work, you should pay attention to the most popular types of cages for keeping and breeding rabbits. They are used by experienced farmers.

Family block - three-section cage

Making a three-section cage for rabbits may seem a little more complicated, the drawings of which are presented in the tab with photographs. But in such family blocks it is very convenient to breed rabbits: the breeding rabbit lives in the central compartment of the cage, and the females live on the sides. Wooden partitions Between the compartments, the cages have manholes with plywood latches, designed to make it easy to place females for mating with a male and return them back to their compartments.

It is very convenient to raise rabbits in such family blocks

The frame can be made from bars, and the side walls, back, nest compartments with doors and partitions can be made from wide lining. A metal mesh is used for the front wall. In the nesting compartments, it is advisable to provide an attic - a free space between the ceiling and the common roof, where the female rabbits can rest from their offspring. An additional convenience of the design is the thoughtful arrangement of feeders and drinkers - the food and water in them are not contaminated, and they can be filled from the outside.

Mikhailov's mini-farms - an easy way to raise little rabbits

One of the most effective ways rabbit breeding are Mikhailov's mini-farms, providing intensive cultivation animals with minimal care from the rabbit breeder. The thoughtful design of Mikhailov's cages provides for automatic cleaning and provision of food for rabbits, heating of water in drinking bowls to the required temperature (which is especially important in winter), and heating of the queen cell to increase the survival rate of newborn rabbits.

Not every rabbit breeder can make Mikhailov cages with his own hands. But if you wish, you can assemble a complex structure according to a diagram that you can easily find on the Internet.

Correct houses according to Zolotukhin’s method

The famous rabbit breeder Nikolai Ivanovich Zolotukhin has been successfully breeding rabbits for several decades; such impressive experience helped him develop his own concept of keeping rabbits at home.

Their design is quite simple, and their production requires materials that are found in almost everyone’s household.

Features of Zolotukhin cells:

the floor in the cages is made solid of slate or boards;
there are no pallets;
a narrow strip of mesh flooring is provided only along the rear walls of the cages;
the back walls are made at an angle so that the rabbit waste upper tier did not fall on the rabbits of the lower tier;
there are no special queen cells - the female rabbit arranges the nest herself before giving birth;
There are grain feeders attached to the doors, which can easily be turned outward for filling.

After watching the video in the tab to the article, you will understand how to make cages for rabbits of the same type as Nikolai Ivanovich Zolotukhin. Moreover, their design is quite simple, and their production requires materials that are found in almost everyone’s household.

How to make your own cages for dwarf rabbits

If you decide to have rabbits at home as pets, the issue with cages will be resolved differently. In pet stores you can now find a variety of cages for decorative rabbits, but you don’t have to spend money on buying them - making a cage for a small pet rabbit will take very little time.

A cage for a dwarf rabbit is made from two side walls 70x70 cm and a back wall 55 cm high, 100 cm long. The back wall must be secured so that there is a gap of 15 cm under the cage. Nail meter slats to the bottom of the cage and fasten a metal one on top of them grid. You also need to nail a mesh onto the front door. Make a mesh lid with hinges and a handle. Place a tray under the cage - the cage for the dwarf rabbit is ready! Material updated 03/17/2017

Even in our global and technocratic society, where everything can be purchased in a store, subsistence farming remains relevant to this day. The most profitable and low-cost method of domestic animal husbandry is rabbit breeding. But, like any living creature, a rabbit must have its own comfortable place to live. These animals are kept in special cages located in the barn. Every novice rabbit breeder should know how to make a rabbit cage.

Such a process will not seem laborious if all the conditions for rabbit breeding premises are met. One of the main requirements is compliance with the scale of such buildings. Therefore, you first need to determine the size of the cages for rabbits. Even with a small number of animals, one cage for all will not be enough. You need to plan at least three pieces. First you need to prepare drawings of cages for rabbits.

Required space for 1 head

A detailed drawing showing even the smallest design details will ensure you have a reliable construction.

There are many known design methods for how to build a rabbitry. Some provide comfort to animals, others are convenient for the owner. financial costs. Each rabbit breeder chooses himself best option, based on your capabilities. But, nevertheless, more often they make cages for rabbits with their own hands. According to reviews, simple rabbit mesh cages are popular. Such material can be found in any construction supermarket, or you can rummage through your old supplies. Let's look at the process of creating a cage for rabbits from a mesh with your own hands.

Mesh rabbitry

There are many varieties of such cages; the following structures have proven themselves best:

a cage without a supporting structure with supporting supports;
frame cells.

Homemade galvanized checkered weaving with strong wire will serve for the production of such structures. For the tops and side sections of the cells, a mesh with links of 25x50 mm will be sufficient. Bottom part involves the use of small cells to prevent the paws of furry animals from slipping. Once you have determined the dimensions, construction can begin.

In our case, the cage will be an externally mesh structure surrounded by a base with legs.

Step-by-step production

The construction of such a structure consists of several stages. Before you make a rabbit cage with your own hands, you need to cut out certain parts of the sides based on the size.

A template made in advance will help create the front and back parts of the same size, which are carefully cut out from the mesh roll fabric. Then the side parts are cut, completely matching their perimeter.

The constructed rectangle is covered with a roof, and a fine-mesh mesh will serve as the base of the floor.
Initially, fastening elements form the walls.
Next, the base of the cage is installed. At the same time, the mesh weaves of the front part of the very first cell are removed. A tray for animal waste will be located here.
Having outlined the doorway, we form a slot. There may be several of them.
The doors are also made using mesh and secured with fasteners.
A mesh ceiling is laid on top of the resulting box.
The frame is made separately using wooden blocks. If the drawings with dimensions are drawn out accurately and exceed the cage itself, our structure will easily fit into its supporting base.

Step-by-step photo instructions

The main work is done, now you need to attach the finished structures to the wall metal parts and install limiters to prevent the cage from swaying when the animals move. The sides and back are covered with plywood sheets, which are cut relative to the dimensions of the frame, and not the size of the mesh formations. Now all that remains is to fill the holding area with the accessories necessary for the life of rabbits: feeders, drinking bowls, a tray, and you can populate the rabbitry with animals. This is the most common way to build a rabbit cage using the mesh method.

Mikhailova's rabbitry

The production of cages for rabbits must be thoughtful and serve as a guarantee that the animals will actively develop and gain weight. A popular scheme for such development belongs to I. N. Mikhailov, a famous rabbit breeder. Mikhailov's rabbit cages have accessible and understandable instructions for the stages of construction yourself at home.

Mikhailov's cage is manufactured according to already developed drawing projects.

The essence of his technique is to divide the cell into three parts: top, bottom and support section, each of which has its own functional affiliation. So, top part has one or two tiers, the lower base contains a tray for collecting feces, as well as a compartment where they are stored and stored until removal. The stand frame also serves as a fixing base. And the compartments of the Mikhailov cage for rabbits, intended for drinking and feeding, move out slightly.

Thanks to this scheme of housing, Mikhailov’s rabbitry requires minimal care– about an hour a week, and the animals are kept outside all year round.

The housings are mainly made of metal, and wood is used for insulation. There are simplified versions of similar premises for rabbits, differing in appearance, therefore, let us highlight the main features of the cell size ratio according to the Mikhailovsky method:

total area one section accommodating a pair of animals ranges from 1.4 square meters. m.;
the height of the cage is 2.1 m, width 2.4 m;
each section of the cage is constructed with a width of 0.6 m and a height of 0.7 m;
The queen cells are 0.4 m long and 0.35 m wide; the cone for collecting waste products can have any size.

The base in the form of legs on a frame stand reaches a height of 1.4 m. Needs to be fixed load-bearing structure fixing elements. This ensures the necessary stability of even the most simplified design.

Rabbit farm Zolotukhina

One of the most popular cages today are cages for rabbits by N.I. Zolotukhin, a man who put forward a number of necessary transformations that bring the conditions for keeping animals at home closer to the natural features of their life. This is how Zolotukhin’s cell, economical and quite simple to create, appeared.

This design saves space and does not require daily cleaning, making it easier for rabbit breeders to maintain.

Let us highlight the main features of N. Zolotukhin’s design option:

The floor is made using flat slate or a sheet of plywood. The mesh is attached only to the floor of the rear covering. There is no tray provided at all. The developer states that rabbits almost always urinate from the back of the cage. This is where most of the feces are collected. The rest of the feces are scattered by the rabbits on the floor.
The building has a complex structure, including six compartments located on floors. Each higher floor is shifted relative to the floor next to it, equal to the width of the grid in the floor. And the front side, connecting the floors, represents a kind of slope.
The queen cell is completely absent. In cold weather, there is additionally a special shelter for the mother rabbit and baby rabbits.

Cleaning is carried out using a goose fan as a sweeping device.

Cage for rabbits in 2 tiers

The use of multi-storey structures for rabbits at home to this day is the most compact and convenient option rabbit breeding. There is nothing easier than building rabbit cages with your own hands in 2 tiers.

Assembly diagram

Developed by experienced owners special instructions, the manual of which contains the following provisions:

wooden blocks are connected to form four rectangular bases;
using a mesh with small cells, they make the floor, then install the side walls;
since the first floor contains trays for feces, the floor is made pitched for ease of removal;
Trays for domestic rabbits are prepared using timber. The second floor must have a strong plywood sheet under its base to prevent contamination from reaching the first floor;
the ceiling is made at the last moment using waterproof materials.

To support two floors, a reliable frame is designed. To correctly carry out such a cage design for rabbits, the drawings must always be kept at hand. Two-tier cages for rabbits have a structure layout in the shape of the letter “U”, represented by standard blocks attached to each other with self-tapping screws.

With these simple techniques you can make cages for rabbits with your own hands, which in their reliability and comfort will not be inferior to factory designs.

Many novice farmers wonder where to start raising rabbits. None special costs this activity will not require. First of all, it is necessary to arrange a place of residence for eared animals, prepare cages, drinking bowls, and feeders. All this can be easily done with your own hands. The main thing is to choose the appropriate design and size for the cage, prepare drawings, necessary tools and building materials.

First of all, you need to decide on the sizes. The most common are double designs with two separate sections. There are other types of cages: single-section, group for young rabbits, three sections or for a rabbit with babies. There are also original designs: from farmer Zolotukhin, from breeder Tsvetkov. Based on what will be built, materials are selected.

First of all, you need to decide on the type of cell, and then purchase the material.

Necessary tools for construction:

hacksaw;
hammer;
corner;
pliers;
plane;
screwdriver.

Any design requires a frame, walls, floor, ceiling and door. Most often, wood and metal mesh are used to construct cages. Each cell of such a grid should be no more than 2*2 cm and at least 16*47 mm in diameter (depending on the age and weight of the rabbits).

The minimum set of materials includes:

large sheets of plywood;
slate;
screws and nails;
bars;
slats;
durable galvanized mesh (with small cells).

To make the door, curtains and latches, as well as feeders and drinking bowls are additionally purchased.

The wood must be well sanded and sanded, and the ends of the mesh must be securely fastened. Be sure to remove all sharp edges so that the animal does not get hurt. It is better to cover all protruding wooden parts inside the cage with tin. Rabbits love to chew on wood to wear down their teeth. Therefore, you need to put twigs in their feeder more often. The walls and roof can be made of plywood and mesh, and thick blocks of wood are chosen for the main frame.

Attention. If the cell is on open space, on the street, then without good roofing materials not enough. But you shouldn't make a metal roof. In the summer, the sun will become very hot, which will lead to heatstroke in rabbits.

Most often, rabbit cages are made of wood and mesh.

The frame is made of thick bars, the length of which depends on the location of the cage. If it is installed outdoors, then the length of the frame legs should not be less than 80-100 cm. For a cage standing indoors, 35-40 cm in length is sufficient.

Sizes and types of cells

First of all, you need to find or do it yourself, correct drawing. It is important to remember that one cage is not enough to breed rabbits. You need to build three or four at once.

The average dimensions of a standard cage are:

length 120-140 cm;
width 70-80 cm;
height 40-50 cm.

For young rabbits, a length of about 90 cm is sufficient, and other parameters can remain the same. It is customary to allocate at least 0.7 square meters per adult animal. m. area, for young animals - 0.2 sq. m. m.

There can be several types of cells:

for young animals;
for adult rabbits;
for a female rabbit with offspring;
for giant rabbits;
solid wire;
cells from Zolotukhin;
cells from Tsvetkov;
Rabbitax.

It is customary to keep female rabbits and babies together, and a separate house is built for older rabbits.

Standard two-story house It is not difficult to build for adult rabbits.

In the drawing it will look like this:

Drawing of a two-tier cage for rabbits.

Cage for young animals

Grown-up rabbits, weaned from their mother, are kept together in groups of 10-20 individuals. When manufacturing cells, they are guided by minimum sizes: total area 300×100 cm and ceiling height 50-60 cm. It is advisable to make the floor in such a house from thin wooden slats, covering them from the side metal mesh(thickness 1.5 mm and cell diameter 15*40 mm). You can install a completely mesh floor, but make a separate warm room for the rabbits. In winter, it is carefully insulated with hay and straw.

Important: One rabbit should have at least 0.2-0.3 square meters. m. area.

Some farmers do not make separate housing for young animals, but place them in cages intended for adult animals. At the same time, it is calculated how many rabbits can be placed in one cage to provide them with comfortable conditions.

For adult rabbits

For medium-sized adult animals, cages with a depth of about 70 cm, a height of 60 cm and a length of at least a meter are suitable. A block design is used here, and each block, in turn, is divided by a grid into two cells. During the mating period, the partition should be removed, combining the two sections into one.

For adult rabbits, you can make a block of cages in 2 or 3 tiers.

You can make a two-tier and three-tier cage. This will be a little more complicated, but it will save space on the site.

Any cage should have a separate place for sleeping, eating or walking. To do this, the cage is separated by a plywood partition with a hole (20x20 cm) located at a height of 15 cm from the floor. The sleeping compartment must have a solid wooden door, and the place for eating and walking is mesh. The resting place does not need to be made large. Ideal sizes, approximately 30x60x50 cm.

House for a female rabbit with offspring

You can often hear the opinion that a rabbit with babies needs a separate queen cell only in the winter, and in the summer it is enough ordinary cell. But you need to remember that in an open room, fenced only with a net, the female will be nervous and worried. This can have a negative impact on the health of the offspring. The queen house must have a closed, warm place for the nest and a large space for walking, with a mesh front wall.

This is one of the simplest and most functional options for a house for a female with offspring:

The photo shows a two-tier cage for rabbits with hanging nesting compartments.

The frame is made from strong bars, and back wall and two side ones are made of plywood. The cage is immediately divided into two sections: a large one for walking and a small one for the nest. For each of them, separate doors are made (mesh and solid wood). The walls, floor and ceiling in the queen cell should be double, according to the sandwich principle. You can lay foam or straw between them. The roof is covered with slate.

House for giant rabbits

Cages for these large animals must be significantly larger than usual. Adults can grow up to 60 cm in length and reach a weight of 7.5 kg.

There are many giant breeds:

butterfly;
German Risen;
grey;
Belgian;
ram;
white;
Viennese blue.

The minimum dimensions of a house for one rabbit should be as follows:

height 55-65 cm;
length 0.9-1.5 m;
width 70-75 cm.

If possible, it is better to increase the parameters of the home.

For young rabbits, a special group cage is built, 40-50 cm high and about 1.2 square meters in area. m. Considering the considerable weight of the animals, the floor is well strengthened. It is also made from galvanized mesh, only thicker. To prevent such a floor from sagging, a sheathing is made under it from bars located at a distance of 3-4 cm from each other.

It is recommended to keep giant rabbits in spacious cages with a solid floor.

Some rabbit breeders install a solid wooden floor in their cages and install plastic trays underneath. But cleaning such a cage will have to be done at least twice a day.

All wire cage

This is the most a budget option rabbit housing, which can be installed both outdoors and indoors. These lightweight and durable cages take up little space and are easy to clean and maintain. To make them, you will need two types of mesh: a larger one for the walls and ceiling (diameter 2.5*5 cm) and a smaller one for the floor (1.5*5 cm). The frame is built from durable timber, with legs 50-70 cm long. In winter, such a structure is placed in an insulated shed, and in summer it is taken outside.

Cages for rabbits from Zolotukhin

The famous breeder N.I. Zolotukhin developed his own, original, simple and inexpensive design housing for rabbits. There is no need for daily cleaning in the cages, and the animals in them feel comfortable and get sick less.

Zolotukhin's cell is a three-story structure with a sloping plywood floor. The mesh is laid on the floor only in a small space near the back wall, without a tray. The second tier is shifted relative to the first by the width of this grid. The third one is located in the same way. The front wall (common to all three floors) forms a slope. Each compartment is equipped with a tilting feeder.

This is what Zolotukhin’s three-tier cage looks like from behind.

To build a cage you will need: wood, straight slate sheets, metal mesh, polycarbonate and tin. Pre-fabricated wooden frame, partitions and doors of the queen cell. Mesh is used for cage doors and the back of the floor. The floor itself is made of slate, and the back wall is made of polycarbonate. All wooden parts located inside the cage are covered with tin.

Cage dimensions:

height 150 cm;
width 200cm;
depth about 70-80 cm;
floor slope 6-8 cm;
mesh width in front of the back wall is 15-20 cm;
door size 40*40 cm.

Each floor is divided by a partition into two sections, and between them there is space for a hay barn.

Cells from Tsvetkov

Experienced farmer A. A. Tsvetkov proposed the idea of a two-story mini-farm for rabbits, consisting of 4 separate sections. Distinctive feature Such cages are: two gravity feeders, two mounted queen cells, original ventilation and manure removal systems.

The frame is built from coniferous timber and must be painted with white nitro paint. To make a hay barn, moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of at least 8 mm is suitable. The inside of the hay barn is lined with metal mesh, which also acts as a door in each section.

The photo shows rabbit cages made according to the drawings of farmer Tsvetkov.

All wooden parts are sheathed with sheet metal, the cone for collecting manure is covered with slate mastic. For the roof you can use slate or roofing felt. The water in the drinking bowls is heated using a boiler.

Rabbitax cells

Rabbitax cells come in different designs and modifications. The simplest ones are small two-section options. There are also environmental models based on air flow redirection technology.

There are even real farms for Rabbits rabbits, in which more than 25 individuals live and breed at the same time. On sale you can find great amount types of such cells. You can make Rabbitax yourself. You can take the drawings of rabbit breeder I. N. Mikhailov as a basis.

Rules for making a cage

In order for the rabbits to be comfortable and comfortable in the new house, during construction you need to follow a few simple rules:

all wooden protruding parts inside the cage are covered with tin;
It is better to use slate for roofing;
Antiseptics, varnishes and impregnations cannot be used;
for the floor, take a mesh with cells with a diameter of 1 * 2.5 cm to 2.5 * 2.5;
the frame is built from durable wooden beam(not less than 5*5 cm);
The back wall of the cage is made of plywood.

The floor in rabbit cages is made of wooden slats or mesh.

How to build a rabbit hutch

When a drawing has been selected, materials and tools have been prepared, construction can begin. First you need to assemble a frame from timber and lay a mesh floor. In outdoor conditions, the floor will have to be insulated and there will be removable trays underneath (for cleaning).

Next, install the back wall made of plywood. It should be lower than the front one. It is also advisable to make the side walls of plywood. In a double cage, a hay barn is set up in the middle. And the front wall can be made of mesh, with a door. If the cage will always be located outside, then it is worth taking care of an insulated compartment for sleeping. The sloping roof is covered with slate.

What do we place inside the cage?

The internal contents of the cell may vary. It depends on who will live in it. So, for a female rabbit with babies, it is necessary to arrange special queen cells and nesting compartments. When keeping young animals in groups, warm nesting rooms will also be needed. Often special indoor enclosures for walking are set up for them. Each cage must have bunkers, drinking bowls, feeders, and hay barns.

It is advisable to place the feeder and drinker outside the cage so that the rabbit cannot chew them.

Choosing a place to install the cage

Before you begin construction, it is important to decide on the placement of the cage. This should be a comfortable place, protected from draft winds. You should not install a rabbit house on the south side, because in summer the animals will suffer from the heat. It is necessary to strictly observe the size of the cage, depending on the breed and number of rabbits. For ease of cleaning, the cages have a removable roof.

If the animals will live outside all year round, then it is better to make the floor from wood in the form of a retractable tray. And then stuff the sheathing of slats on top. Feeders and drinkers can be removable. The walls and ceiling are insulated with foam plastic, and a heated floor is installed in the uterine compartment.

We offer video instructions for viewing that will help you build cages for rabbits with your own hands.