A dacha is, of course, the place where you want to take a break from the bustle of the city, to breathe Fresh air and just have a fragrant drink herbal tea on the veranda. And decorating the dacha with furniture made by yourself will add a special charm to such a simple ceremony.
When choosing materials for a table, first of all you should pay attention to the quality of the wood - not all wood is suitable for use. Conifers, such as spruce and pine, are pliable and easy to work with, but such material without appropriate treatment is more flammable, and the resins released can ruin the tablecloth.
Hardwoods (aspen, oak, ash) are more advantageous; products made from them are strong, durable and have an attractive appearance. appearance.
| Wood type | Brinell hardness) | Density (kg/m3) | Stability | Color trends |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Birch | 3,0 | 600 | average | the color becomes deeper |
| Larch | 2,6 | 500 | good | takes on shades of gray |
| European oak | 3,7 | 700 | good | the color becomes deeper |
| Ash | 4,0 | 700 | average | light to straw, yellowish brown |
| Pear | 3,3 | 680 | average | blushes |
| Cherry | 3,0 | 580 | good | from light pink to deep reddish hue |
Materials and tools
For interior design of dachas and country houses Long narrow ones are more acceptable, allowing you to move around the room unhindered. This should be taken into account when preparing everything necessary for work and designing the table itself.
For the table, it is preferable to use a board with a thickness of at least 30 mm. This thickness will ensure the strength of the table and the ability to withstand heavy loads. The optimal length ranges from 150-200 cm. You can purchase two ready-made wooden shield size 30-2000 mm.
Balusters or wooden beams for legs. Curly balusters will give homemade table industrial chic and luxurious look. And to make legs from timber, you need to choose boards with a minimum cross-section of 50x50 mm. A comfortable table height is ensured with a leg height of approximately 73-75 cm.
Other materials and tools
- Boards 20 mm thick and 8-10 cm wide for the tabletop frame.
- Wood putty.
- Screwdriver and screws for 30 and 50 mm.
- Sandpaper of various grits, as well as a holder.
- Clamps for fixing legs and table top.
- Electric drill.
- Sander.
- Building level.
- Square.
- Tape measure or centimeter.
- Marker.
- Glue.
Manufacturing stages
When preparing materials, all boards and beams are processed with a plane, sander or coarse sandpaper to remove unevenness, remnants of cut knots, and clean out cracks. The boards must be even and smooth, so they are sanded on all sides, including the ends, edges and corners.
If it is intended to be manufactured as a solid panel without gaps, then it is better to purchase tongue-and-groove materials - this will create a stronger adhesion of the single sheet and save time on adjusting the elements. Chamfers are cut from the edges of the beams for the legs.
Assembling the frame for the tabletop
The frame helps to enhance the strength and stability of the table; its dimensions depend entirely on the parameters of the table top, but there are several general rules: both in length and width, the frame should be 30-25 cm smaller than the tabletop.
Video - Making a dining table for a summer house
The frame itself is assembled from 4 boards that form the outer frame, and 6 internal transverse strips. The boards are installed on the edge at a right angle using a square and tightened with 50 mm self-tapping screws. The joints are pre-coated with glue (PVA or wood glue). To prevent the boards from splitting, you can drill guide holes in them and only then screw in the screws.
Along the length of the frame, markings are made for the transverse strips, and guides are drilled. It is very important that the cross members are strictly perpendicular to both sides of the frame frame. The ends of the transverse strips are coated with glue, and the entire structure is fixed with self-tapping screws. Make sure that the screw heads do not protrude, but are completely “recessed” into the wood.
Table frame (production option)
The tabletop boards are connected, aligned with a tape measure and laid face down on the floor; a frame is placed on top so that the transverse planks lie tightly on the tabletop. Guides for self-tapping screws are drilled into the planks, and all elements are tightened with 30 mm screws. There are 5-6 screws for each cross board.
Assembling the table legs
The tabletop is placed on a workbench or several stools for subsequent installation of legs. The table leg is fixed in the corner of the frame with clamps, and guides for self-tapping screws are drilled into the frame.
Before attaching the leg, glue is applied to the end of the block - this will protect the table from loosening and will contribute to greater strength. It is recommended to fix the leg on each side with four screws, but if desired, you can additionally use metal corners. Round balusters are fixed with long self-tapping screws on the front side of the table, and square balusters are fixed with corner fasteners.
Finishing
After installing the legs, the table is turned over and placed on the floor. Depending on the design of the table, the corners are sawed off along the radius with a jigsaw or the end is completely rounded. You can cut chamfers from the edges of the tabletop and sand everything thoroughly.
If necessary, scratches and cracks resulting from work are repaired using wood. It is better not to touch the screw heads so that the structure can be tightened.
After the final sanding, all dust and shavings are removed from the table, and the product itself is covered with stain or several layers of varnish.
Tables with elements of decoupage decor or single painting look beautiful and unusual. But there’s no point in hiding the beauty of natural wood under a layer of paint; modern varnishes and impregnations will do the job necessary work to protect the product from moisture.
Video - Table with legs for a summer house
Option 2. Tree stump table
Unusual and in a non-standard way to equip a personal space is to create interior items from natural materials. When landscaping an area, trees that are old or that threaten buildings are often cut down. If your dacha has or had just such a tree, then you definitely won’t have any problems finding a suitable stump. If the idea came spontaneously, then you can look for the desired stump in clearings, in the nearest forest, or ask the owners of neighboring plots.
Materials and tools
To make such a fantasy table from a stump you will need very little:
- wood for the tabletop, the recommended thickness of the tabletop is from 20 mm, when choosing boards you need to adhere to the rule “the larger the tabletop, the larger the cut of the board”;
- stump. For the work you will need a dried stump of any type of tree, the main thing is that the wood is intact, not damp or rotten. If the tree was cut down recently, the stump needs to be dried thoroughly. And it’s better to do this by placing the stump in a warm dry room or at outdoors in sunny weather. It must be remembered that several weeks is not enough time for proper drying. As a rule, the entire process takes at least two months. You can determine the condition of the wood by the ease of removing the bark - if the bark comes off without effort, then you can start working;
- wood varnish on water based natural shade or transparent. It is this composition that will best emphasize the texture and advantages of natural wood;
- sandpaper various grain sizes and holder;
- plane or sander;
- chisel;
- building level;
- roulette;
- hammer and nails;
- screwdriver and screws;
- abrasive fiber.
Manufacturing stages
Stage 1
The dried blank of the future table must be cleared of bark. A chisel or chisel will be useful for this step. The bark must be removed with extreme caution and precision so as not to damage the wood and prevent cracks and splits from appearing. Any soft or rotten areas should also be removed.
Stage 2
After the bark has been removed, the stump must be leveled relative to the horizontal plane. To do this, use a level to prepare a flat surface, and place the base of the future table on it.
If curvature is observed, the imperfections are eliminated using a plane. At the same stage of work, excessively large rhizomes of the stump and all unnecessary parts are sawed off with a hacksaw, the sections from which are then sanded.
Stage 3
The leveled stump is ground with a disk sander, especially its horizontal parts. The sides of the stump are also sanded, and hard to reach places processed with coarse sandpaper. This is a rather labor-intensive process that requires a significant amount of time.
Stage 4
Cracks and depressions in the barrel must be cleaned of dirt and debris using a chisel, then sandpaper folded in half (with the working layer facing outward) should be carefully processed from the inside. Remains of wood dust are cleaned with a brush or a construction vacuum cleaner.
Stage 5
To prevent the stump from rotting and ensure air circulation between the table and the floor, furniture legs can be attached to the base from below. The presence of legs will make moving the table more convenient.
You can choose any legs: metal, furniture wheels or special rubberized stands. It is best to attach them using self-tapping screws to the base of the stump; the number is chosen arbitrarily, based on the size of the table.
Stage 6
After installing the legs, we proceed to sheathing the top of the stump. To do this, we put two parallel strips perpendicularly on the sidewalls, and two more rows of holders on top - a total of 6 strips, fastened together with nails. This will be the frame for the table top.
Stage 7
We fasten the prepared tabletop boards from below with transverse strips. The shape of the tabletop can be very diverse: round, rectangular, with rounded corners. A table option with a round or oval tabletop looks more advantageous.
To give this shape, you can use homemade device from thread, pencil and nail: the end of the thread is tied around a pencil, and the tip of the nail is placed in the middle of the tabletop, outlining a circle with a selected radius, after which all excess is sawed off, and the edges and surface of the tabletop are processed with a grinding machine.
Stage 8
Holes and defects in the boards can be decorated with finely chopped shiny stones, filling them with varnish and after drying, sanding them again to smooth the surface.
The finished tabletop is fixed from below to the sheathing with holders on nails or self-tapping screws selected to size.
The finished table is varnished in several layers. After applying the first layer, the product is thoroughly dried and processed with fine-grained sandpaper. This will prevent the varnish from peeling off, and subsequent layers will lay down more evenly.
After removing the dust, apply the second and subsequent layers of varnish without grouting. If desired, after drying last layer can be treated with abrasive fiber - this will remove excess shine and give the surface a matte finish.
Such creative table will decorate any veranda, especially in a pleasant frame of green bushes or flower beds.
Video - DIY garden table made from a stump
Perhaps the main attribute of a room for eating - a dining room or kitchen - is the kitchen dinner table. Choosing any furniture for small kitchen typical city apartment, you have to compromise between free space in the room and spaciousness, comfort of furniture, this fully applies to the choice of table. It is not easy to find a small kitchen table with the desired shape of the tabletop in stores; custom-made ones promise considerable additional costs. There is a decent way out of the situation - making a table with your own hands.
For a room with an area of 6-8 sq.m., probably the most suitable tabletop size will be in the range from 800x500 mm to 1200x600 mm, with a standard height of 750 mm from the floor. The elongated shape of the tabletop - oval or rectangular - allows you to place the table along the wall, saving free space.
Selection and purchase of materials and accessories.
When making a kitchen table, it would be the right decision to use a factory-made material intended for the same purpose, namely a post-forming countertop made of chipboard. These countertops are covered with wear-resistant decorated plastic, used in the furniture industry in the manufacture of kitchen sets, supplied in the form of sheets about 3 m long, 600 mm wide, 26 mm or 36 mm thick (in standard version). Postforming countertops have a low price. Their front overhang (end) has an aesthetic semicircular shape and is also covered with plastic. Standard fittings are available for them: end and connecting strips, edges for processing ends, couplers, etc.
Buy a whole cloth kitchen countertop just for the sake of one third of its length there is no need. The required piece can always be found (purchased for a proportional fee) in furniture workshops, where they accumulate in large quantities as remnants from the production of kitchen sets. There, in furniture workshop, you can ask to immediately cut the part on a cutting machine to obtain a rectangular workpiece part with the required dimensions.
Postforming type tabletop.
However, chipboard countertops have one feature - they have only one or two plastic-covered overhangs along the length of the canvas. For the table, we need to have all the ends processed (on all sides). For this reason, it will not be possible to directly (without processing the ends) use ready-made kitchen countertops. Moreover, you will have to cut off the front factory overhang. The open ends of the chipboard must be treated taking into account protection from water ingress, not forgetting the aesthetic appeal of the treatment. There are two main ways: apply (glue) a special edge tape or use PVC-based furniture edging. We will take the second path, as it is the most practical from an operational point of view and forgiving some minor mistakes of the master. We will use furniture edging with sides (girths), this will not only give the tabletop a more solid appearance, but will also provide additional protection. Edge section required length You can buy it at a furniture hardware store. A T-shaped (with a central tenon) PVC edging with girths is required for chipboard with a thickness of 25 mm or 32 mm. When purchasing a 25-mm edge, you must first make sure that it can be put on a 26-mm end without any problems. The use of a 32nd edge is also quite acceptable and gives the tabletop a visually thicker edge.
T-edge with girths (sides) in section.
Another important point- legs (supports). Today there is a wide selection of both piece supports and ready-made bases for tables. The most common solution is a round leg with a height of 710 mm and a diameter of 60 mm. The legs of this type are collapsible, height adjustable, and have low price, easy to install, available in several external coating options (shiny, matte, painted in various colors). If you need to transport or compactly store the table, it can be easily disassembled. The legs are also sold in specialized furniture stores. As a rule, the manufacturer packs them in packs of 4 pieces, unassembled. When purchasing a whole pack, the kit must include a hex key.
Set for making a table: a piece of kitchen worktop, four legs, edging.
The process of making a table.
What tools are needed for this have already been described in detail; we will not repeat ourselves; we will briefly list the main stages and dwell on some of the nuances.
Step 1. Apply markings. On the front (working) surface of the tabletop we apply markings with a pencil according to the design of the future table. All roundings must be made with a radius of at least 60 mm, in order to avoid changes in the color of the edging in places of sharp bends (depending on the edging manufacturer).
Applying markings for rounding corners on the front surface of a rectangular workpiece.
Step 2. Give shape. According to the markings, leaving a small reserve of 2-3 mm, we cut off the excess. The jigsaw file must have the opposite (reversible) direction of the teeth (see article about), in order to avoid chipping the plastic coating, even though the edge with its girths can partially hide small chips in the cut. Use a belt sander to ensure that the contours of the table top exactly match the markings.
Cutting corners with a jigsaw and final finishing with a belt sander.
Step 3. Mill the groove. Depending on whether the edging is used exactly along the width of the tabletop (25 mm) or larger (32 mm), the groove is milled exactly in the center of the end, or with an offset. The exact milling parameters are calculated after measuring the geometry of the edge used with a caliper. In the absence of a “native” cutter with which you can make the required groove width in one pass, you can perform multi-pass milling using a cutter with a smaller tooth height.
Measuring the edge with a caliper: the internal width and thickness of the tenon.
Milling a groove for a 32 mm edge in a tabletop 26 mm thick (the groove is offset downward relative to the center of the end).
Step 4. Stuff the edging. Before filling the edging, the end of the tabletop must be coated silicone sealant. It will not be superfluous to put the sealant in the groove, and also apply it to the upper edge (girth) of the edge, directly adjacent to the working surface of the tabletop. This will ensure maximum protection against water penetration. The edging is stuffed rubber mallet, starting from the place where the joining seam will be least noticeable. After completing the stuffing, accurately join the ends of the edging using sharp knife. The last operation will be to remove from the surfaces of the tabletop any excess sealant that was squeezed out during packing. The tabletop is ready.
Applying sealant to chipboard end. It is enough to apply only to the upper half, which is above the groove.
Edge padding. When securing the tabletop using struts (as in the photo), you need to take care of the spacers under the tabletop to prevent damage to the lower, protruding edge of the edge.
Step 5. Attach the legs. To attach the legs (more precisely, their cast holders), on the underside of the tabletop we apply pencil markings in the form of two perpendicular lines at the location where each holder is attached. Usually, good option is to install the legs at a distance of about 100 mm from the edge of the tabletop (see photo). The holders can be secured with self-tapping screws 20-25 mm long with a countersunk head. All that remains is to put the legs on the holders, securing them with a hex key, and the dining table for the kitchen is completely ready to use.
Markings for attaching leg holders.
The table is ready.
Table option with an oval tabletop.
The design of a kitchen table made from a postforming table top is simple, unpretentious, accessible to self-made, reliable. However, it must be remembered that if handled carelessly - strong impact along the leg in the lateral direction - there is a possibility of breaking the holder, made of a relatively brittle alloy. With careful handling and proper care, the table will last for many years.
An interesting tabletop attracts not less attention than a tabletop. If you install footboards for two identical tables different styles, then the products will look completely different. Each table will immediately acquire its own individuality and uniqueness. IN modern products legs act as an autonomous accessory not only with functional properties, but also as decoration. They can be purchased separately or made independently.
Wooden legs give the table uniqueness and personality.
Traditional table support
The most commonly used option for the foot of a table built with your own hands is wooden legs. They may have different shapes: carved, faceted or cylindrical, be in the form of animal paws or one central support. However, traditionally it is better to make table legs from cone-shaped wooden blocks.
Before starting work, you need to prepare materials and tools:
- rectangular wooden beams (for example, 50x100 mm);
- screws;
- drill;
- wood drills;
- glue;
- clamps;
- table saw;
- wood filler;
- corner clamp for saw;
- sandpaper with different grain sizes;
- tape measure and pencil.
Return to contents
Manufacturing stages
The work begins with cutting blanks of the required length from the bars. If necessary, the size can be adjusted during the process. Then you should glue 2 pieces together. To do this, apply a layer of glue to one of the wide planes of the bar and place it on top of the other. The surfaces to be glued should be pressed tightly against each other. To prevent the workpieces from slipping, they must be clamped in a vice and left alone until the glue has completely dried.
Holes are drilled on one side of the beam into which screws are inserted. The holes should be made secret. To completely conceal them, they are filled with wood filler. The resulting workpiece is carefully processed with sandpaper until the surface becomes smooth.
For the next stage of making table legs with your own hands you will need table saw. First, the instrument itself is configured. The blade is set at the "maximum" level. The workpiece must be positioned in such a way that nothing prevents sawing off the required part from the edge. You should work carefully, without fuss, observing all safety rules.
First, a part is sawed off on only one side. Then reinstalled rip fence and a part is sawn off on the other side of the workpiece. Once the trimming is complete, you should end up with a smooth, square-shaped piece.
Now it’s time to give the blanks a cone shape. To do this, you will need an angle clamp for the saw, which is installed at the required angle size. The parts should be cut carefully, being careful not to touch the internal screws.
The best location for screws is on the inside of the table. To achieve this, you need to narrow 2 legs from the left corner, and 2 others from the right. As a result, the pairs of legs will be divided into right and left.
The final stage of work is sanding. Sandpaper is used for this. You need to start with the coarse-grained version and end with the finer-grained version.
It is simply impossible to imagine a kitchen without a table that performs two functions at once, one of them is eating, the second is preparing it. You can buy this piece of furniture at any store of relevant goods, but it is not always possible to choose the model that will be suitable for the dimensions and design of a particular room, so it is better to make the table yourself.
Figure 1. Dining wooden table You can do it yourself, so you can make it the size and shape you need.
In Fig. 1 you can see the design of the table, which will be discussed in the example. For the work process you can rent everything necessary equipment for wood processing, avoiding its purchase. As a result, you can get not only the original, but also strong table, which will fit into an interior decorated in any style.
Tools and materials:
- acrylic composition;
- putty;
- beam;
- furniture board;
- fastening fittings;
- jigsaw;
- wood glue;
- clamp;
- Sander.
Preparation before starting work
Tools for making a table: jigsaw, drill, screws, tape measure, ruler, pencil.
In order to make a table with your own hands, you need to prepare a furniture slab, the thickness of which can be equal to the limit of 40-45 mm, while its width can vary from 600 to 800 mm, the length of the slab can be any, but traditionally it is 1200-1400 mm . It is permissible to use the corresponding element as a tabletop, for kitchen set, adjusting it to required sizes. If it is not possible to purchase a solid tabletop, then it can be replaced with a set of boards that need to be glued together.
The legs can be made using timber, which has square section, equal to 60x60 mm or 70x70 mm. The legs can be figured wooden or steel products. The structure will become rigid thanks to the timber, the cross-section of which is 40x40 mm, and the length should be such that it is possible to circle the tabletop around the perimeter. Making a table using fastening fittings, it can be represented different models, you will also need fasteners, namely bolts, screws and nuts.
Table manufacturing technology
Boards and beams must be marked to the required length and cut into blanks.
Before making a table, you have to think about what design it will have, what technical solutions will be used in the process of its manufacture, how it can then be decorated, these components will allow you to obtain a full-fledged aesthetic piece of furniture. This stage involves drawing up a sketch according to certain dimensions of the structure.
For the table, you need to choose the type of tabletop that will be easiest for the craftsman to make, and the one that will look most harmonious in the interior of the room. There are two types of countertops, one of which is simple, the second - high degree aesthetics and originality.
If you prefer a table top made on the basis of laminated veneer lumber, then it will act as the most simple option structures, excluding the tabletop based on a finished furniture board.
In order to make a tabletop from timber, you will need to use a saw, which can be replaced electrical equipment: jigsaw, sawmill, etc.
Corners are used to attach the legs.
The timber must be cut into blanks, giving it the required length. And then you can carefully process the mating surfaces. This procedure may also involve grinding.
The ends of the workpieces must be coated with glue for working on wood, secured with clamps on a flat base until completely dry. As soon as the tabletop is ready, its surface must be thoroughly sanded manually or using grinder, next you have to chamfer the perimeter and round the corners.
The second type of countertop can be decorated with tiles, which can give the product high aesthetic and consumer qualities. During the manufacturing process, it is permissible to use solid wood, which can be replaced with a solid furniture board. The inside of the countertop must be removed to a depth that is equivalent to the thickness of the tiles, and it should be taken into account that the adhesive layer also has its own thickness, which will become apparent when laying the products. In order to achieve even greater aesthetics, it is permissible to form a border located along the perimeter of the tabletop, equal to 70 mm. You can more accurately calculate the size of the border by taking into account the dimensions tiles. Work to remove a layer of wood can be done, for example, with a chisel or by hand milling.
You can lay tiles on the formed base using traditional Bustilat glue, and its height should coincide with the height of the curb. Once the glue has dried, you can continue the construction process.
Self-tapping screws or special fittings are used to connect the table legs and the tabletop.
At the stage of attaching the table legs, you will need to use mounting hardware. In advance, you need to drill holes on the legs, the diameter of which should be 1 mm less than the corresponding size of the screws. Now you can attach the fittings to the legs.
The next step will be to increase the rigidity characteristics of the future structure, for this purpose inside around the perimeter of the tabletop, a prepared block should be secured using self-tapping screws, which will act as a table drawer. The installation of the timber must be carried out after marking, ensuring sufficient space for the legs. Then you can match the legs and mounting hardware to the tabletop and frame.
Table surface design
Applying tiles to the countertop.
When making a table with your own hands, at the last stage you will have to finally decorate the structure. Before this process, all elements must be carefully sanded to get rid of the slightest roughness. Final finishing It also allows you to show the unique natural structure of the wood.
Before you make a table with your own hands, you need to choose the right wood, which should be of high quality, be well dried the right technology. Otherwise, the design will begin to change its characteristics over time. linear dimensions. This can happen if wood with a high moisture content has been used. Over time, it will begin to evaporate and deform the table. But even well-dried wood needs to be protected from external negative factors, because the kitchen is characterized by conditions with high humidity. In addition, the table is often used for cooking, which may be accompanied by exposure of the tabletop to substances harmful to wood.
After completing the manufacturing process, the table with your own hands must be covered with varnish, which can be replaced with wax. Wood is not always free from flaws or knots, which must be treated with putty, and then sanded and decorated with acrylic composition.
The surface of all table elements must be varnished in several layers. The more there are, the more attractive the appearance of the finished product will be.
After all wood cutting work has been completed, you should carefully remove workroom, this especially applies to the painting or varnishing stage. After all, dust can cause poor quality of painting. The next step is drying, which should be done in a warm room. You can choose a varnish that will be able to give the wood the desired shade and appearance of valuable species. In addition, it will provide good protection elements from damage and rapid wear.
Making a children's table
Before you make a table for the nursery with your own hands, you should prepare a solid mass that will form the basis of the tabletop. You will need blanks for legs made of timber with a cross section of 40x40 mm. The power frame will be based on 4 bars. Model children's table may be equal to 500 mm or higher.
Compound structural elements should be made according to the “groove-tenon” principle; for this reason, using end mills it is necessary to form grooves in the places where the legs are attached. Why do you have to mark the places for the grooves, combining paired elements, and then in the right place should be arranged blind hole. Its diameter should be equivalent to the thickness of the groove, while its depth is usually equal to 1/3 of the body of the workpiece. Now you can fix the leg blank in the clamp, and then, using an end mill installed at low speeds of an electric drill, begin sampling the wood until a groove of the required size is formed.
The ruler will allow you to measure the resulting grooves and mark the tenons on the bars for the load-bearing frame, which can then be formed. Now you can perform a test assembly. Measuring tools will allow you to check the angles between elements. Then you need to mark the workpieces and disassemble the table. Wood glue will help secure the mating elements. After waiting for the frame to dry, it is necessary to attach the tabletop to it. Why do you need to drill a blind hole in the center of the legs for a furniture pin? Next, you need to mark the positions of the tenons on the back of the tabletop by drilling matching holes.
In this case, it is also necessary to carry out preliminary fitting, only then the parts can be treated with glue and attached.
Any of these tables can be adjusted to the size of a nursery or dining room; the main thing is to take accurate measurements and make a strong connection, then the structure will serve its owners for a long time.
A variety of furniture fittings largely determine the practicality and functionality of an interior item, and also affect its external aesthetics. We invite you to find out what furniture legs should be like so that they last as long as possible, and the room itself acquires an attractive, luxurious look.
Furniture legs and supports, as in the photo, are a type of furniture fittings for various purposes, shapes, colors. Often such components are made in the same style and color as the piece of furniture itself, therefore they are harmoniously combined with it and complement it with their beauty. However, you should not think that they perform a purely decorative function. Such products are characterized by a high functional load, therefore they are indispensable in the manufacture of cabinets, cabinets, chests of drawers, and so on:
- First, let's note the supporting function - thanks to the presence of such structural elements, the cabinets stand stably on the base, do not wobble or warp. Many furniture legs are equipped with the ability to adjust their height and slope. This property of sliding models allows you to reliably install the cabinet even on uneven floor. This fact is the fundamental basis for comfortable, safe use piece of furniture;
- no less important protective function furniture fittings leg. Table legs protect the bottom of the structure from scratches, chips and other types of damage. The better the product is made, the more effectively it copes with the protective function;
- In addition, the legs of the bedside tables provide the user with high comfort when using the piece of furniture.
Telescopic models have the ability to select the height of furniture installation, which allows a person to choose optimal height from the point of view of ergonomics and personal comfort.
Kinds
Absolutely all types of furniture legs that exist today allow you to establish interaction between the structure and other objects in the room. Such small-sized elements make the design complete, giving the space laconicism and comfort. Without the most ordinary leg, it is difficult to imagine a comfortable residential building today. Such fastening devices can give furniture stability, a luxurious, stylish look. But what kind similar products prefer? Let us characterize the main ones below:
- regular stands without the function of adjusting their height are available at an affordable price. Often, such legs have laconic design without special decorative elements;
- legs with the ability to adjust the height of the furniture. Combine aesthetic appeal and high functionality;
- decorative legs are used to decorate a piece of furniture, as designers give them their own original look. Curly supports can have non-standard shape, attractive coating, various kinds of decorations. For example, carved furniture legs act as an independent element of room design.
Manufacturing materials
Today you can see a huge variety: smooth, bent legs for furniture, with or without the ability to change the height. But first of all, it is important to pay attention to the material of the product:
- metal - look very attractive, strong, durable, made according to drawings from metals such as chrome, aluminum. Chrome is heavier than aluminum, but also stronger. Owners prefer chrome modern interiors for whom the durability and strength of furniture is important. Chrome legs are perfect for high-tech interiors where a lot of glass and metal are used. Most original form for a metal support - a wheel. Wheels can be used for furniture of very original design;
- made of solid wood ideal for wooden furniture. If durable wood is used to make a product, it will last a long time and will look luxurious and expensive. To give strength to cheap types of wood, a metal support is used;
- plastic supports do not look very attractive, but have a wide range of sizes and high functionality.
The plastic leg is optimally used for kitchen furniture or a headset in the country.
Nuances of choice
When choosing supports, it is important to pay attention to the following points.
| Selection criterion | Characteristic |
| The presence of soft padding on furniture legs | Felt protective pads on furniture legs prevent the leg from damaging the bottom of the furniture. Felt is also used for their manufacture. Felt underlayment is very effective and affordable, and extends the life of the support. Therefore, you should not refuse to purchase such gaskets. Stickers for furniture legs can be picked up in the store. The choice of lining shapes is wide. |
| Material of manufacture | More durable and practical to use metal models, slightly less – wooden and plastic. However, when choosing a manufacturing material, a lot depends on the design features and its stylistic direction of decoration. For laconic high-tech only metal models are suitable, for country - wooden supports. |
| Design | The external aesthetics of the design must fully match the aesthetics of the headset, so when choosing such products, be sure to bring a photo of it to the store. This will allow you not to make a mistake in your choice and choose the most attractive supports. |
Video