To level or redevelop living space, partitions made of gypsum plasterboard or plasterboard are used. GCRs benefit from brick and block partitions in that they are lightweight, the installation of such structures is quick and simple, and after completion of the work there is little dirt and dust left. GKL and GVL are economical, have good heat and sound insulation.
In addition to standard gypsum plasterboard, there are the following types of material:
- moisture resistant;
- fire resistant;
Moisture resistant used in places with high humidity, fire-resistant is used for other premises (kitchen, office premises).
Moisture-resistant drywallGKL is excellent for finishing living rooms, because it is environmentally friendly and, when heated, does not emit poisons. Regulates the microclimate of the room naturally.
GVL is used for durable structures. This gypsum fiber sheets, which are stronger than drywall. GVL is made from building gypsum with additives. GVL is an environmentally friendly material for dry construction; it does not have a cardboard shell, like plasterboard. But there are the following disadvantages of using GVL:
- GVL is heavier than gypsum plasterboard;
- costs more.
Characteristics of a wooden frame
GCR fastening to a wooden frame is often used.
A wooden frame is cheaper than a metal frame; it is made from wooden planks and bars; softwood is usually used. Bars with a cross-section of 40*40 centimeters are used at the junction of two layers or where massive objects (mirror or cabinet) will be located on the wall.
Material requirements:
- Wood moisture content ranges from 12 to 18%;
- Fire treatment must correspond to the first group fire safety;
- The wall thickness should not exceed 132 mm.
Before use, wooden slats are processed protective equipment from fire and pests, are examined for the presence of knots and irregularities.
Attaching the base
Screwing drywall pieces onto wooden slats should be carried out in residential and dry buildings. The frame is assembled in accordance with the vertical and horizontal levels, otherwise the structure will come out skewed.
Tools for creating a design:
- hammer;
- perforator;
- nails;
- building level;
- self-tapping screws;
- mounting dowels;
- metal corners.
If the structure needs additional insulation, this is done during assembly.
Base fastening technology Stages of work:
- First, mark the partition on the ceiling using a level, then attach the wooden frame;
- Fasten strapping bars starting from the ceiling. Then comes the floor, and after that comes the walls. It will be easier to work if all the coverings in the building are made of wood (liquid nails or self-tapping screws will do). If the house is made of brick and concrete, then fastening is done with dowels and anchors to the ceiling;
- Having secured the bars to the ceiling, mark them on the floor (at least three marks) and continue fastening the frame.
- After checking the correspondence of the fastenings relative to the ceiling and floor, they begin to mount the base. To do this, it is enough to connect the floor and ceiling guides with vertical bars. The distance between them is maintained at least 40-50 centimeters. It is very important to install these beams well, since the main load will fall on them.
- After installing the verticals, the racks are secured to the corners with self-tapping screws on both sides with 3-4 holes.
Mounting gypsum boards on the base
Sheathing begins from solid sheets or the largest pieces. They are fastened with self-tapping screws to the beams every 25-30 centimeters.
Facing When sheathing with material on only one side, insulation is laid and electrical wiring is pulled before installing the top layer.
During installation of the other side, insulation is laid as necessary. It is better to do without pulling cables; if they are still needed, they are placed in a special protective tube.
If the partition has a doorway, increase the number of posts and horizontal lintels.
Tips for beginners:
- When installing the second side of the wall, move the sheet one step so that the structure is strong;
- To avoid problems during fastening, make sure that the gypsum board joints fall exactly in the middle of the vertical posts.
Isolation
Sometimes it is impossible to do without additionally insulating the structure, especially if it is not just a decorative part of the interior. There is nothing complicated about this, just lay and secure the material.
Structural insulation Mineral wool, polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam are suitable for this. The rigid material is already attached to the inside of the lined partition.
Each material has both disadvantages and advantages, it all depends on what the room in which they are used is intended for.
Read also: Arrangement of an apartment building.
Working with uneven surfaces
If suddenly the base is uneven, you should identify the unevenness using a beam. For this:
- Lay the timber along the wall and draw a line from the outer edge;
- Vertically lean the rack-mounted timber beam, mark at regular intervals the location of the end behind its exit on the floor.
It is important to install the frame evenly so that the entire structure comes out even.
If you have difficulties with plasterboard sheathing, this video will help:
Advantages of using gypsum plasterboard
This material has a number of advantages compared to other raw materials:
- low cost and assembly costs;
- little weight;
- quick installation;
- better sound and heat insulation;
- Can be used even in freezing rooms;
- leveling walls;
- installation of drywall does not require additional preparation of the base;
- After installation, little debris and dust remains.
If everything is done correctly, all that remains to be done as a final touch is decorative finishing walls. And plasterboard structures will last a long time and save a lot of time and money.
In contact with
Over time, every house and apartment needs to be renovated. This becomes especially important with the appearance of children in the family. To create a children's room in one-room apartment, it is not necessary to build brick wall. , created with your own hands, will delimit the room and at the same time improve the design. The frame of the partition under plasterboard is created from wooden beams or metal profiles.
Plasterboard partition for room zoning
In both cases, you should carefully study the action plan and become familiar with the generally accepted rules.
To create a partition made of plasterboard on a wooden frame, you need to take into account some factors that will determine the service life of the structure and its functionality.
- The wooden frame is installed only in a dry room.
- The partition is placed in a room without sudden changes in temperature.
- A wooden frame is installed in apartments and houses without obvious movements.
- In a private house, there is a high probability of damage to the tree by insects and rodents.
Creating a frame for a gypsum plasterboard partition on a wooden frame If all of the above factors are excluded, the room is conducive to the construction of a partition with a frame made of wooden beams.
Materials for the wooden frame of the partition
To create a wooden frame you will need materials. Before starting work, you should prepare some materials.
Required condition when creating a partition, wood for wooden frame must be dry Wooden beams for the partition frame
What kind of wood is needed for the partition frame? For quality frame base For partitions, the wood used is ash, beech, pine, maple - grades I-II. Conifers contain a large number of tree resin, which prevents rotting, they are less susceptible to damage by insects and rodents.
The size of the material is selected based on the size of the partition. You will need bars with a cross section of 60x80 mm. For greater stability, 50x100 mm bars are purchased for the base of the frame (top, bottom).
Wooden blocks 60*80, 50*100 Before using wooden beams for installation, you need to carry out some operations:
- All wood used to create the frame base should be dried. This may last up to 1 week.
- After drying, the wood is treated with an antiseptic. There are many solutions for wood processing on the construction market. Price policy depends on the manufacturer.
Antiseptic agent for wood treatment To ensure confidence in processing, drying oil is used. It takes a long time to dry, but it is 100% processed material. For processing, drying oil should be heated in a water bath. When warm, the product penetrates deeper into the wood. The ends of the beams should be very carefully treated with drying oil. In some cases, the beam should simply be lowered with its end into a container with an antiseptic.
Prepared drying oil in a water bath When dried, 20% of the wood changes its appearance, what to consider when purchasing.
Other materials
Tools
To create a frame from wooden beams for plasterboard partition you will need a set of tools:
- Pencil or chalk.
- Meter, plumb lines, level.
- Hammer.
- Screwdriver.
- Saw or hacksaw.
- Roller.
- A set of spatulas with different spatula sizes.
Kit necessary tools for working with plasterboard If it is not possible to purchase a power tool, you can rent it.
Work plan for installing a wooden frame for a gypsum plasterboard partition
To build a durable wooden frame for a plasterboard partition, you should follow the plan.
Preparatory work and drawing
The first step in installation is surface preparation. This requires an analysis of the surface of the floor, adjacent walls, and ceiling. The entire surface must be flat. If you apply an even wooden beam to the wall, there will be a gap of 0.3 mm. This is not critical, but a gap of 0.5-0.8 or more will affect the structure, since when the beam is fixed it will bend. Therefore, the entire surface must be flat.
The deviation of the surface from the norm should be no more than 0.8 mm. The room must be dry and clean. To do this, remove all objects that interfere with installation. Clean out debris, remove dust and cobwebs. It is advisable to treat the surface boundaries with a primer mixture with an antiseptic.
When the surface is prepared, you can begin drawing on paper. First you need to decide on the type of partition. Will it be up to half the room or as a wall? Will there be windows, doors or an arch? This should be reflected on paper.
The next step is taking measurements. All taken dimensions along the perimeter, as well as the proposed window and door openings, are drawn on the partition drawing.
Scheme of a plasterboard partition on a wooden frame Every 40 cm they are placed vertical racks. Horizontal jumpers are installed at the joints of plasterboard sheets. At the location of the doorway, the horizontal beam is reinforced. In the place of the niche, which will be functional, there is also reinforcement. In the case of covering the partition with two layers of gypsum plasterboard, calculations will be required for the horizontal jumpers of the first layer of gypsum plasterboard (joints) and the second layer of sheet joints.
Markings for the wooden frame of the partition
For marking you will need a level or laser. It is required to accurately mark horizontal lines on the ceiling and floor, and a strictly vertical stripe on the wall. Fastening points are marked on these lines. Boundaries should also be noted. doorway.
Markings for future plasterboard partitions In order for the marking to be accurate, plumb lines should be used. They are lowered from the ceiling. The cone of the tool does not reach the floor by 1-2 mm. A fixed plumb line on the ceiling line with its end of a weight shows an exact point on the floor. Plumb lines should be hung at least at three points across the entire width of the partition.
Installation of a wooden frame
Installation of the frame base begins with attaching a wooden beam to the ceiling. There are some nuances here. If the ceiling is wooden (private wooden house, shingles), then ordinary wood screws 3.5*35 are used. If the base is concrete or brick, then the wooden beams are fastened to the wall and floor with dowels and nails, and to the ceiling with a wedge anchor.
Initially, a wooden beam is attached to the ceiling All guide (main) bars are attached in increments of 30-40 cm. This will give reliability and strength to the entire structure. If plaster layer unreliable, there is an option to replace the dowels with wooden pegs. They are driven tightly into the wall, sometimes coated with alabaster solution on top, after which a self-tapping screw is screwed in.
Vertical beam fixed on the wall After attaching the guide at the top, attach the beam at the bottom. This should be done very carefully, since the evenness of the septum depends on this procedure. The last beam is fixed to the wall, thereby connecting the floor and ceiling fixed materials. There should be a frame. In all internal corners Metal corners are attached at 90 degrees. This is an additional fixation of the reliability of the frame. The corner is made independently in the absence of furniture parts.
Installation of vertical racks Now you should install the vertical posts. They are created from wood of the same section as the harness. The racks are fixed using wood screws. For strength, metal corners are installed. In the area of the planned door, the vertical posts are reinforced (2 knocked down bars).
Horizontal jumpers are installed at the junction of the plasterboard sheet. And also reinforced horizontal lintels are placed in the places of the created niches and at the top of the doorway.
Installation and fixation of the horizontal jumper In the place of the doorway below, a wooden beam will serve as a threshold. But, if this element is not provided, the tree is cut out, and the edges of the beam are additionally secured with self-tapping dowels.
Wiring
In this type of design, communications are impossible. But, if you need to make a backlight, a socket, a switch, then along the path of laying the wires, small diameter holes are made in the wood with a drill.
It should be noted that wiring through holes in wood should only be done using corrugated or inserted metal tubes to avoid fire.
Wires run into these holes. Wiring must be done in accordance with the electrical diagram. It should be preserved. In areas of switches and sockets, space should be allocated for the box.
Installed boxes for sockets and switches in a wooden frame A wooden ceiling can be perfectly covered with plasterboard. This decoration is not only very beautiful. The technology used to attach plasterboard to a wooden ceiling or to a ceiling on metal profiles allows you to create multi-level ceilings that will be decorated with various borders or other relief elements.
In addition, such a ceiling can be easily puttied, lighting can be built into it, and stylish stucco molding can be glued to its surface. It is also important that such a ceiling will breathe well and the natural microclimate will not be disturbed. Drywall is a modern environmentally friendly material that allows you to create miracles with the interior of your home.
Methods for attaching drywall to a wooden ceiling
Installation of plasterboard is most relevant when there is a need to cover a very uneven ceiling, especially in those rooms where the height is three meters or more.
Today, there are several ways to attach drywall to a wooden ceiling.
Namely:
- On adhesive materials ( special adhesives for drywall);
- On wooden slats-profiles;
- To metal.
In very rare cases, drywall is attached to an adhesive material directly to the ceiling itself. This is only possible if the ceiling is perfectly flat. Besides this method is not practical, since there is a high probability that the gypsum board ( plasterboard sheets) will sag or disappear altogether.
That's why special attention We will not focus on this method in this article.
The most commonly used options are those using a specially prepared frame. And then we will consider in detail how to attach drywall to the ceiling and the technology for manufacturing these frames.
Frame made of wooden slats
Such a frame allows you to hide all sorts of imperfections in the ceiling, without greatly sacrificing the height of the room. Drywall on wooden slats is more preferable if you need to install a simple single-level ceiling. This method is cheaper than using a metal frame.
However, only high-quality, perfectly chamber-dried bars and slats are suitable for the frame, which will not subsequently deform and will be able to withstand a decent load for many years.
- Before you start installation work, you need to visually determine the lowest point of the ceiling. It is from this that we mark the design position of the frame: we retreat 5 cm, and using a level we draw an even horizontal line along the entire perimeter of the room. If you do this work correctly, your end point will coincide with the start point.
- Next, along this horizontal line along the entire perimeter, we secure the rail with self-tapping screws.
Please note: how correctly you calculate and design the frame will determine the success of all subsequent work!
- Next, we attach the base bars to the ceiling surface with such a step that will ensure reliable fastening of the hemmed system. The recommended distance between the base bars located in parallel should not be more than 0.8 m.
- In a perpendicular direction we attach load-bearing strips to them, which will be the basis on which drywall can later be hemmed. In the event that you have small area ceiling, a single-base frame in which the targeted wooden blocks to the ceiling will simultaneously serve as carriers for securing the gypsum boards. Of course, the step of fastening the bars in such a frame will decrease and will be about 0.5 m.
Installation of wooden frame and drywall
- We fasten the bars to the ceiling with self-tapping screws on dowels with a fastening pitch of 0.8 m. In the case of two-layer sheathing, we reduce the step, because the weight of the binder will double. The attachment points of adjacent beams should not be on the same straight line. They need to be alternated in a checkerboard pattern.
Installation of drywall on wooden ceiling It is made with a step of fastening the sheet to the frame of 0.15 m in the case of a single-layer filing. The fastening step for the first layer can be 0.5 m when filing in two layers. When fastening the second layer to be hemmed, the pitch of the screws will be 0.15 m.
Note!
The length of the screws is 25 – 35 mm. This screw size is perfect for 12.5mm drywall thickness.
If the thickness of the sheets is different, you need to select fasteners based on the depth of insertion into the material.
Attaching beams to the ceiling
The base bars can be attached to a wooden ceiling using straight metal hangers (brackets) or adjustable metal ones with wire hangers. Thanks to the use of direct hangers, it is possible to increase the distance between the gypsum board and the ceiling surface.
We attach the brackets to the beam on both sides with self-tapping screws. We shoot the brackets themselves to the load-bearing ceiling and bend them along the width of the beam at a right angle. If you need to increase the distance between the ceiling and the gypsum board, there is the D111 system ( suspended ceiling on a wooden frame).
Plasterboard on a wooden ceiling on a wooden frame allows the use of wire hangers. Frame elements are held on hangers special clamps, which allow for quick installation and the necessary height adjustment.
Metal carcass
How to attach drywall to a metal frame (see also)? It's actually not that difficult if you have detailed instructions. A metal profile is a more reliable and durable material for creating a frame for gypsum boards than wood.
Before installing the frame, you need to decide to what height the plasterboard ceiling will be lowered. Between the plasterboard and the ceiling you can install not only lamps, but also various communications (ventilation, water supply and electrical wiring).
You will need 2 people to install the frame and support the sheets. One sheet of drywall weighs about 15 kg.
What does the frame consist of?
The metal frame consists of guide profiles. They hold the main frame of the entire structure and rack profiles are attached to them, onto which drywall is mounted. Cross section has profiles U-shape. And the rack profiles look like the letter “C”.
The length of the profiles is always three meters. If you need to increase the length of the profiles, use butt joints, which are inserted inside and secured with self-tapping screws. With the help of hangers, you can correct and level the plane of even the most crooked ceiling and give relative rigidity to the frame structure.
In any hardware store you can find very convenient straight hangers that you can use in your work. Other types of suspensions are quite difficult to adjust, and they are also quite unreliable due to defects in manufacturing.
Rack profiles can be fastened perpendicularly using cross-shaped joints, which are also called crabs. If you are planning to install a ceiling in small room, then this will not take much effort and time from you, but it is still better to find yourself an assistant.
Frame installation
To install the frame and gypsum board you will need the following tools:
- gun for hammering dowels;
- knife for cutting drywall sheets;
- felt-tip pen;
- level (2-3 meters);
- drill;
- hammer;
- screwdriver;
- self-tapping screws for drywall, metal and dowels;
- metal profiles;
- plasterboard panels.
First you need to determine where the lowest corner is in your room, and then measure from there the distance you need to lower the frame. After this, draw a horizontal line along the entire perimeter with a level and a pencil and clearly follow it when attaching the guide profiles.
These profiles, depending on the type of surface, are secured either with dowels or self-tapping screws in increments of 20-30 cm - the main thing is that it is firmly and securely attached to the wall.
After this, we proceed to the installation of rack profiles. If the width of your room is approximately 2.5 meters, then a metal frame that is sufficiently rigid will be sufficient. The assembly of such a frame is very simple.
You just need to attach the rack profiles to the wall and fasten them. They need to be fixed at a distance of 0.4 meters, using drawn lines located on the side walls.
Next, use metal scissors to cut the rack profiles along the length of the room and insert them into the guides, and then fasten the resulting structure with self-tapping screws. To give it rigidity, you need to use special hangers.
They need to be fixed to the ceiling with dowels-nails in increments of 60-80 centimeters, and then improve the strength with the help of self-tapping screws. If you do not use hangers, the frame will ultimately not be securely fastened, and after puttying and painting, all joints will crack.
If you are installing a chandelier or lampshade, then it is necessary to install mortgages, since plasterboard sheets will not be able to support the weight of your lamp. Attach several rack profiles to the frame for the future location of the lighting fixture.
After you have installed the frame, you can begin installing the gypsum board. For this you will need: a stationery knife and a felt-tip pen. We mark on a sheet of drywall according to the size of the room and cut it off.
Then we attach the gypsum plasterboard to the ceiling using self-tapping screws in increments of 25 cm. It is easier to screw them in with a special screwdriver.
Recess the heads of the mounting screws slightly into the drywall panel. The next stage is gluing the serpyanka mesh to the joints (to avoid cracks), then primer and putty.
So popular finishing material, like gypsum plasterboard, in most cases it is attached to a special frame. Usually it is mounted from metal profiles. Alternative option- a lathing made of wooden beams, which is very easy to assemble with your own hands. But do not be deceived by the ease of manufacture: wood is a capricious material, its use is not always possible. Let's look at all the features of this design and find out when and how it can be done wooden sheathing under drywall yourself.
Features and disadvantages of wood lathing
The construction of a wooden frame under gypsum plasterboard attracts low cost and ease of operation. Especially if during the renovation there are a small number of boards left that can be used as slats load-bearing structure. In this case, you will not have to spend money on purchasing metal profiles, as well as the necessary fasteners, for example.
But you should also remember about the properties of wood that limit its use in construction:
- Wooden structures are subject to change geometric dimensions with excess or insufficient humidity. The drywall attached to such a sheathing will move with it, resulting in cracks appearing at the joints of the sheets. This is a constant process, as wood releases moisture when the room is dry or absorbs when there is excess humidity.
- Leveling walls using gypsum plasterboard is often combined with insulation. Ventilation of the wooden parts of the sheathing under these conditions is minimal, which leads to their rapid rotting.
- The bars are not suitable for leveling walls. It is unacceptable to use wedges for lining: over time, the wood may bend under the influence of moisture and temperature, and weak areas will form in the areas of such linings.
- It is not recommended to use a wooden frame when finishing plasterboard ceilings. This design does not have a sufficient safety margin; it is better to use a metal profile for this purpose.
- It is unacceptable to use a wooden frame in rooms with increased level humidity or temperature. Strictly speaking, lathing made of this material is only suitable for rooms with constant microclimate parameters.
- If it is planned to place a gypsum board under the surface electric wires, then you need to use metal guides: wooden elements do not have a sufficient level of fire safety.
When can you make a frame for gypsum boards from wood?
It is recommended to use a wooden structure under plasterboard sheets:
- In houses made of logs or timber. In this case, the lathing is ideally combined with the wall material due to the same physical properties. It turns out that any change in humidity is compensated. In such conditions, the drywall remains motionless and is not damaged.
- IN ordinary apartments with perfect smooth walls. In this case, the frame made of timber will be a reliable basis for fastening the gypsum board.
Advantages
Advantages of wooden sheathing:
- Simple installation that can easily be done by hand.
- Available and cheap materials, more environmentally friendly than metal profiles.
- Subject to all necessary conditions properly installed lathing will last a long time and will be a reliable basis for drywall sheets.
Tools and materials
First of all, you will need a wooden beam itself with a cross-section of at least 40 × 40 mm. If you plan to carry out insulation and sound insulation, then the timber must be chosen thicker, for example 40 × 80 mm. To prevent rotting, it is impregnated with antiseptic and water-repellent solutions. It would be useful to treat it with a composition that improves the fire safety of the material.
Before installation, all wooden elements must be left in the room for several days in order to adapt to its microclimate and take on their final geometric shape.
You will also need:
- Measuring tools: level, plumb line, tape measure.
- Pencil, coated cord.
- and dowels for attaching the timber to the wall.
- A screwdriver and self-tapping screws, as well as corners for connecting frame elements to each other.
- Hacksaw, hammer and construction knife.
As you can see, almost the entire tool can be found in the arsenal of even a novice master. To install a wooden frame and fasten drywall, you do not have to purchase specialized expensive equipment.
Installation of sheathing
Preparatory work consists of removing the old coating if there is doubt about its strength. Things in the room can be covered with plastic wrap or other material.
The procedure for constructing a wooden frame:
- First you need to make the markings. The size of the plasterboard determines the optimal pitch between the vertical posts - 600 mm. Thus, each sheet will be attached to three bars: one in the center, and two at the edges. The joints should be located on the surface of the rack, as shown in the photo.
- A horizontal beam is attached to the ceiling. Using a plumb line, the location of the slats on the floor is determined. They must be located strictly in the same plane.
In the case of a perfectly flat floor, horizontal beams can be attached directly to the wall. Here, the equal thickness of all sheathing elements is of paramount importance: any error in size will result in irregularities in the frame.
- Vertical racks are attached to the beams on the ceiling and floor strictly level. They are mounted to the wall using dowel-nails, for which holes are pre-drilled in the slats and in the wall for fasteners.
In houses with wooden walls The stands can be mounted to the base using wood screws. But you still need to drill holes: this eliminates the possibility that the timber will crack.
- The heads of the screws are recessed 1 mm deep into the sheet.
- In the future, as well as deepening the screw heads.
- After sanding, the surface is primed and ready for further finishing.
For working with drywall use various materials. The most common method of constructing profile metal frames, however, wooden structures can also be found quite often.
Wood is a natural, environmentally friendly building material, so some people prefer it. It is worth saying that wood is susceptible to climatic influences, biological corrosion and is a fire hazard, and therefore requires additional processing.
Installation of drywall on a wooden frame is used quite often.
Wood preparation
Physical properties
The frame for plasterboard is made from quality wood coniferous species.
Making a frame for drywall from wood coniferous. Timber of various sections is used, the value of which depends on the height of the partition and the method of cladding.
Main physical characteristics:
- Humidity from 12 to 18%;
- For partitions of the W121 brand with a height of 2.8 - 3 meters, use a beam with a section of 60 × 50 mm for risers and 60 × 40 mm for sheathing;
- For partitions of the W122 brand with a height of 2.8 - 4.2 meters, timber with a cross section of 60 × 50 mm is used for risers and sheathing, while depending on the height, different thicknesses of plasterboard are used: for a height of 2.8 - 3 meters - 2 × 12.5 mm, 3.3 - 3.6 meters - 2 ×14 mm, 3.6 – 3.9 meters - 2×16 mm, 3.9 – 4.2 meters - 2×18 mm;
- The step between risers in all cases should not exceed 60 cm;
- Fire retardant treatment must comply with the first fire safety group;
- Connections using nails, tenons and self-tapping screws are allowed, with tenons being the most preferred, as they create a rigid and durable connection;
- The thickness of mineral wool sound insulation should be from 50 to 60 mm;
- Wall thickness can range from 85 to 132 mm;
- The insulation index ranges from 41 to 51 depending on the thickness of the wall.
Important!
Before installation, the wood should lie for several days in the room where it is intended to be installed in order to acclimatize.
You should use high-quality lumber that meets the requirements for humidity and fire safety. It is necessary to make sure that there are certificates about the treatment of the material with fire retardants and the passage of relevant examinations by authorized bodies.
Chemical treatment
Antiseptic treatment - condition long service lumber.
Except fire treatment The wooden frame for drywall must undergo antiseptic treatment.
This measure is aimed at combating all kinds of biological risk factors, namely:
- Fungal and mold microorganisms. Trees can serve as a breeding ground for the mycelium of a number of molds and other fungi. In this case, the wood becomes unusable and destroyed;
- Biological decay. Wood is an organic material that is subject to necrobiosis and decay, like all organisms. Preservation requires antiseptic treatment.
- Carpenter insects. There are many known insects that feed on wood and render it unusable.
- Rodents. They also pose a danger to the tree. Treatment with antiseptics repels these animals.
Pests can ruin wood in a short time.
Various are used as antiseptics chemical compounds. One of the best is sodium fluoride.
It is a light gray powder, soluble in hot water. The maximum solubility is 3.5 – 4%.
Sodium fluoride penetrates well into the wood and is very weakly washed out. At the same time, the compound does not decompose and does not corrode the metal, has no odor and is not toxic to humans. Quite a strong antiseptic.
An example of wood damage by fungal mycelium.
Sodium fluoride is also used, often with the addition of soda ash, which converts it into pure sodium fluoride.
The use of oily antiseptics in residential premises is unacceptable:
- creosote,
- coal,
- shale,
- anthracene oils.
These compounds are toxic and can harm the health of people living in the house.
Installation of a wooden frame under plasterboard
Tracing the lines connecting the partition to the walls
To draw lines, use the 3 or 4 meter rule.
Before proceeding directly to the installation of the partition, it is necessary to trace, or, more simply put, marking the lines along which the partition will adjoin the walls, floor and ceiling of the room. (See also the article How to build a partition from plasterboard: features.)
To do this, you need to measure the distance at which the plane of the future partition should be located and step back from it by the width of the gypsum board sheet.
It is better to do this along the ceiling-wall line. Having marked the desired point under the ceiling, it is easy to move it plumb down the wall. To do this, hammer a nail into a point, hang a plumb line and mark the corresponding point at the bottom of the wall, near the floor.
A centered weight with an axis indicator should be used as a plumb line.
We connect these two points and get the first line. Next, you need to draw a line perpendicular to the wall from the bottom point.
This can be done by constructing the so-called " Egyptian triangle»: right triangle with an aspect ratio of 3:4:5, where the 3rd and 4th correspond to the legs, and the 5th to the hypotenuse.
In this case, we place one leg along the wall from the bottom point, making it a multiple of 3. Next, from the bottom point we build an arc of a circle in the direction perpendicular to the wall with a radius that is a multiple of 4.
Then, from the other end of the leg, built along the wall, we build a circular arc with a radius that is a multiple of 5 so that it intersects with the previously constructed arc.
By connecting the intersection point of these arcs with the original lower point, we get a perpendicular to the wall. We draw a line on the floor along this perpendicular - the second line of our partition.
In the place where the floor line connects to the opposite wall, mark a point at the bottom of the wall. Using a level or plumb line, move this point to the ceiling. We connect the lower and upper points and get the third line. (See also the article Drywall niches in the wall: how to make.)
Next, we connect the two upper points on the walls along the ceiling and get the fourth and final line. Thus, we must obtain a rectangle along the lines floor-wall-ceiling-wall, along which the partition will adjoin the room.
Advice!
To build a perpendicular, you can use a trick: attach a sheet of drywall to the wall with the short side, and draw a perpendicular along the long side from the calculated point.
Frame installation
Wooden frame for plasterboard partition.
As you can see in the photo, the frame consists of a frame and vertical as well as horizontal bars. The installation of the frame should begin with the frame.
To do this, bars should be secured along the lines that we drew along the walls and ceiling. If the house is wooden, we fasten them with screws or tenons to ceiling beam, floor joists and walls.
If the building is made of stone, we fasten the bars with dowels and screws. You can also use direct hangers or brackets.
The Knauf bracket can be used to attach beams to the wall.
We attach solid bars along the walls and ceiling. Along the floor, the timber should diverge in both directions from the doorway. If the opening is located near the wall, then bottom beam will be continuous and located on one side of the opening.
So, we attach all the bars and use an impact drill with a concrete drill to drill holes in the walls and ceiling.
Doorway
The doorway is formed by double risers.
When the frame is ready, we proceed to installing the doorway.
Racks
The racks should be installed strictly vertically.
To determine the location of the lintel (vertical, which is above the opening), we apply a sheet of plasterboard that will be at the doorway, and in place of its edge we place the lintel so that the edge of the sheet falls in the middle of the board.
Advice!
To connect beams, it is better to use metal corners and metal plates intended for assembling rafter systems.
These mounts are reliable and designed to withstand significant loads.
Each part must be checked for level: the racks must be strictly vertical, the lintels must be strictly horizontal.
You should also try to position the racks so that the wall contains the maximum possible number of whole sheets of plasterboard. This will save time and material.
All manipulations for assembling a wooden frame can be easily done with your own hands, and alone. We advise beginners to work with an assistant, preferably a technically competent or experienced person.
The wooden frame is sheathed in the same way as the metal one.
The work of covering the frame with gypsum board sheets is the topic of a separate article. We can only say that drywall is mounted on a wooden frame in the same way as on a metal one.
It should also be noted that the price of the profile is lower than that of high-quality lumber, and dealing with low-quality lumber is more expensive, so think carefully.
Tool
To work, you will need a standard set of wood tools.
So, you will most likely need a set like this:
If you don't have impact drill or a screwdriver, you can rent them at a construction supermarket. Also don't forget about mineral wool, which is necessary for sound insulation.
You can use thick mats so as not to lay the wool in two layers. It is better to choose mats on a mesh or other base that prevents the material from caking.
Conclusion
Assembling a wooden frame for gypsum boards is a simple job and does not require special skills. This instruction gives a general idea; for greater clarity, we recommend watching the video on this page, which will help you understand many of the nuances and subtleties of assembling the structure.