Carpentry is based on precise fitting and gluing of parts, and it is the latter part that is responsible for the strength and durability of the product. There are quite a few types of wood glues, and today we will talk about the difference between them and the rules of use.
General classification of wood glues
The modern range of glues for carpentry includes more than a hundred items. Therefore, first, let’s briefly go over the types of glue, their properties and the most popular brands.
Based on their origin, all types of glue can be divided into compositions of natural origin and synthetic ones. Natural adhesives, in turn, may include animal adhesives and plant origin, synthetic ones are divided according to the production method into condensation (formaldehyde) and polymerization (PVA, polyamide). The list of natural adhesives includes compositions based on casein, collagen and albumin, to chemical compositions include PVA, formaldehyde, PVC, epoxy, as well as most universal types of glue. As you might guess, adhesives of natural origin are most widespread, primarily due to their low cost and well-established production technology.
Wood is a highly porous material, which means that almost any material can be used for gluing. adhesive composition. However, since most carpentry products are used for domestic purposes, it is not customary to use adhesives based on volatile solvents for gluing them. This is the second advantage of natural glue - it provides sufficient strength while not emitting environment no toxic substances.
However, for a number of products it is necessary to ensure resistance to various external influences. The main struggle is to increase moisture resistance, because most types of natural glue lose strength when wet. It may also be necessary to increase adhesion; this need mainly arises when gluing parts made of hard and dense wood. Here best performance demonstrate connections using synthetic adhesives.
How to choose the right glue
If you are not a professional carpenter, do not be intimidated by such a variety of compositions for gluing wood. You can take an easier route - use time-tested types of wood glue, environmentally friendly and with a certain set of special properties.
Natural glue is supplied mainly in dry form and requires preparation before use. The main disadvantages of natural adhesives are their short lifetime (up to 2-3 days) and low strength of joints, due to the low degree of chemical purity and errors made during preparation. At the same time, natural glue - optimal choice for fastening non-critical parts with a large area of adjacent surfaces.
As a universal glue, most carpenters use factory-prepared PVA-based compounds. Well-established manufacturers are Titebond, Kleiberit, Moment, they are listed in order of decreasing product cost and, accordingly, quality. These types of glue are classified according to the reliability and quality of the connection by index D with four serial numbers. The higher the number, the more pronounced the moisture resistance and strength of the seam; additional properties may also appear. So, Titebond III glue, also known as D4 general classification, allows contact with food products After drying, this glue is mainly used for assembling end cutting boards.
If the contact area of the parts to be glued is small, it is required high accuracy gluing or resistance to stress, it is better to use compounds based on synthetic resins. Even ordinary EAF epoxy resin in such cases will give odds to any water-soluble glue. It is especially advantageous to use it for gluing hard wood, including thermally modified wood, as well as when connecting wood with foreign materials.
Gluing wood to plastic using epoxy glue
Preparing parts for gluing
When gluing wood they act general rules making adhesive joints. The smaller the thickness of the adhesive seam, the deeper the impregnation and the lower the content of foreign impurities, the stronger the fixation. For these purposes, the surfaces to be bonded must be carefully prepared.
Gluing of wooden parts is carried out before finishing sanding. Preliminary contacting surfaces must be thoroughly sanded with abrasive paper with a grain size of at least 300 grit to remove fine lint that interferes with the absorption of the glue. It is important to remember that the cleaned surface is suitable for gluing only for a certain time: over time upper layer wood oxidizes, the vessels become clogged with dust and new portions of lint rise.
When using water-soluble glue, degreasing is not necessary. However, when gluing with epoxy resin or polyurethane hot melt adhesive, it is advisable to remove residues of wood resins and natural secretions from the surface using concentrated technical acetone. It is worth mentioning separately about the humidity of the parts being glued: moderately increased moisture content (20-22%) when working with water-soluble adhesives slightly slows down the hardening process, but at the same time promotes deeper absorption and ultimately has a positive effect on the strength of the connection. But when using adhesives on liquid resins, an increased (more than 12-14%) moisture content is categorically unacceptable, so the adjacent surfaces are first dried with hot air for 2-3 minutes.
Glue application and curing
The glue is applied to the surfaces to be joined as evenly as possible. The thickness of the layer should be as minimal as possible, but at the same time sufficient to compensate for the curvature. The presence of air cavities in the adhesive seam has an extremely negative effect on the reliability of the connection. Special attention apply to seams with uneven thickness, reaching several millimeters at the peak: in such joints it is recommended to mix the glue with wood flour or cellulose fiber.
In certain cases, glue does not have the main fastening function, but is used as a plastic filler. Such situations include strengthening joints on tenons and lamellas with glue; merging wood using the groove and microtenon method also partly falls into this category. In such cases, the glue is applied with a clear excess, after which quite painstaking work is carried out to remove the protruding residues.
It is convenient to apply glue to even and smooth surfaces with a small flexible spatula, which can be used as an ordinary plastic card. Glue is applied to grooves and small holes, as well as to tenons and folds, using a brush with synthetic bristles. When gluing parts with a large contact area, it is necessary to apply a large number of glue as quickly as possible so that it is absorbed evenly. For example, you can take the same end boards And furniture panels: to glue several dozen bars, glue is quickly rolled over them with a roller. The same applies to gluing veneer and gluing flat parts of plywood.
Almost all types of glue require curing after application. outdoors. Upon contact with oxygen, the glue undergoes primary curing, which speeds up the drying process of the assembled parts. For PVA-based adhesives, the exposure period can be up to 20-30 minutes, for natural ones - up to several hours. Manufacturers may give special recommendations, for example, polyurethane glue is kept until it completely loses viscosity, after which it is activated by temperature.
Positioning, compression of parts
Curing the parts helps increase the viscosity of the adhesive, which is good for holding the parts in the bonding position. However, this approach is used mainly in modeling and making non-critical adhesive seams. Most carpentry adhesive joints require rigid fixation of parts using clamps and stops.
Fastening parts with additional pressure not only allows you to maintain their position while the glue dries, which is almost always accompanied by shrinkage and warping of the wood from local moisture. As the glue becomes more viscous, the pressure helps to push the composition that has not yet set deep into the pores, which increases the strength of the adhesive seam.
Used in carpentry great amount clamps of different types and sizes. To glue flat parts, you can also use regular bending, pressing the product to the table with a weight weighing 7-10 kg. But to connect linear elements, you need not only to maintain the corners, but also to compress the parts, which can be quite large. Ordinary linear clamps do an excellent job of this task; if the length is insufficient, a stop can be attached to the parts, but only if the place where it is fixed is covered by another part of the product. It is also widely practiced to temporarily attach the stops to the frame with clamps.
To glue parts at an angle, specially shaped clamps are used, having two pairs of clamps and fixed jaws, rigidly fixed to the frame in a given position. This tool can be replaced by a number of devices, which is often practiced when gluing at angles other than straight lines. For example, wedges cut according to a general template can serve as a temporary stop. With this positioning method, it is important that the clamping force is directed as close as possible to perpendicular to the adhesive joint. For these purposes, the back parts of the clamps and stops can take a wide variety of shapes.
In conclusion, let's give a couple practical advice on how to ensure that adhesive seams are invisible. Most wood glues have a translucent white color for a reason: after drying, minor drips can be easily hidden under a layer of protective and decorative coating. But there are a number of exceptional situations.
For example, initially invisible traces of glue on wood become clearly visible when impregnated with oil. If you plan to coat the product in this way, you need to work with glue as carefully as possible. Excess glue protruding from the seam should not be wiped off immediately; it is better to wait for it to pre-set, and then cut it off with a modeling knife. It’s the same story with drips: attempts to wipe them off will only lead to deeper absorption, so it’s better to simply blot the drop with a foam sponge, and after drying, clean the defective area with a scraper.
If small residues of exposed adhesive need to be removed, solvents can be used. Depending on the type of glue, these can be acetone (for most adhesives based on synthetic resins), isopropyl alcohol (for those based on PVA), toluene (for universal rubber adhesives and epoxy resins), as well as ordinary soapy water (for natural reversible adhesives). Dried excess should be wiped off with a completely clean rag or cotton napkin strictly in the direction of the adhesive seam.
In this article we will consider the question of how to glue wood to concrete. Many people who have started renovations in an apartment or house certainly face the problem of combining these materials.
The need for gluing such materials is seen when bare cement screed laying wooden flooring or installing baseboards yourself, installing wooden fillets, etc. But, from time to time, fasteners are needed for more substantial and weighty objects, and this results in additional difficulties.
Fastening methods
Over the long history of construction work Many methods have been tested for attaching wood to concrete. Among the current and widely used methods, we note the use of specialized assembly adhesives and the use of fastening hardware.
Let's look at the highlight of the implementation of these methods and find out which specific materials are optimal for the purpose of carrying out similar work.
Use of specialized adhesives
If reinforced concrete was cut with diamond wheels, and now you have to install wooden parts that are small in size and weight, you can use special assembly adhesives.
A correctly selected adhesive composition allows you to reliably fix not only baguettes or plinths, but also overlays on stair steps. But, you need to understand that the range of adhesive compositions is wide, and therefore you can count on the optimal result only if you select the right product.
If you need glue for concrete and wood, pay attention to the following compositions:
- Construction adhesive “Liquid nails”- it is relatively inexpensive and at the same time effective solution to work with materials of interest to us. “Liquid nails” are presented on the market in several modifications, in particular, “Universal”, “Express”, “Super strong”, “Very durable”, “For panels”, etc.
If the question is how to attach wooden block to the cement wall, the best choice would be a very vicious and universal modification.
The universal type of glue “Liquid nails” is a good choice for interior use. For example, with this method you can successfully glue wall panels made of lumber to previously cleaned and dust-free concrete.
But in case you are interested in how to glue wood to concrete when sub-zero temperatures, you will need “Liquid Nails” that are very strong with a gripping force of up to 70 kg per 1 m?. This glue will also hold the wood on uneven concrete at temperatures down to -17°C.
- Glue "Moment"- This is a large assortment of different compositions with different technical and operational properties.
Of particular interest is the “Epoxylin” modification, which is a two-component composition that works with a wide range of materials including concrete and wood.
After drying, the composition not only reliably holds the glued surfaces, but can also be sanded or subjected to other machining without compromising adhesive strength.
Another modification of the Moment glue, with which it is possible to connect concrete with wood, is the Joiner Moment. This product has found wide use during styling floor coverings made using lumber.
Polyurethane foam is a good option for simple and effective gluing
If necessary, it can be used as glue polyurethane foam increased strength. This good decision for floor coverings wooden coverings, installation of window sills, wall panels etc.
This method of connecting two surfaces is characterized by a number of advantages, including:
- affordable price compared to other adhesives;
- greater strength of the connection after the composition has completely dried;
- low degree of thermal conductivity, which is important when finishing floors and walls;
- excellent soundproofing qualities;
- hydrophobicity;
- biological stability;
- simple instructions for use.
But there is also a significant drawback, in particular the long drying time of the foam. Therefore, within 5 minutes. the glued part will need to be held in the desired position so that it does not move away from the surface.
Fundamentally important: In order to ensure optimal contact between the surfaces to be bonded and the foam, they must be lightly wetted with water.
Surface preparation is the key to success
Whichever of the above compositions you choose, before attaching wood to concrete, both surfaces must be properly prepared. To result installation work there was a strong and durable connection, both surfaces should be as smooth as possible, dust-free and grease-free.
The main problem is the porous structure of the material, especially if diamond drilling of holes in concrete was carried out. This property is a circumstance of excessive absorption of adhesives, and therefore the connection does not have time to gain the proper strength.
It is not difficult to make a coating from concrete that is predisposed to gluing; to do this, it is necessary to reduce the number of pores. For this purpose, deep penetration primers are used, which penetrate into the porous structure of the material and harden there. As a result, the micropores close, and the density of the concrete allows the use of glue.
It is fundamentally important: Wooden parts should be glued to previously prepared cement bases in strict accordance with the instructions of the manufacturer of the adhesive compositions.
Fastening using dowels
If you need high-quality and durable fastening of a wooden pole to concrete, simple glue or foam is not enough. In this case, it is possible to use fastening iron products designed for high mechanical loads.
Heavy wooden parts can be attached using dowel nails and anchor bolts. The principle of operation of these fasteners is similar, since after they enter the concrete, they working part begins to burst. As a result, fastening wooden poles to the cement base it turns out to be very durable.
Conclusion
There are many ways to securely bond cement surfaces to wooden parts, but greater strength will be guaranteed if preliminary preparation. There is no need for priming and dust removal of concrete if a connection using dowels is used.
You will find more informative and necessary information by watching the video in this article.
The main problem that one has to face when gluing anything to concrete is the extremely low adhesive ability of this material. Simply put, taking plywood, linoleum or MDF and gluing it to concrete will not work. First you need to strengthen the adhesion of concrete, and then glue the required material.
How to glue plywood and linoleum to concrete
It is better to increase the adhesive properties of a concrete surface using a primer. After which you can safely glue the plywood to the concrete with any good parquet adhesive. If you need to glue plywood to concrete on the floor in a utility room, inexpensive glue for water based or elastic polyurethane adhesive composition. In some cases, you can use double-sided tape, for example, Dublfix. When plywood is glued to a concrete floor under parquet, it is worth using two-component adhesive to ensure the strength of the fastening. The adhesive compositions Bona, Adesiv, Kiilto have proven themselves well.
If we talk about linoleum, then double-sided tape can again be used as an adhesive. This is perhaps the easiest option to glue linoleum to a concrete floor. High traffic hallways and corridors will require more reliable way covering fastenings. Special mastics are suitable here. Elastic and well fixing linoleum, they are inexpensive and do not leave a smell. If the floor screed has defects, they will be eliminated bitumen mastic. It glues perfectly and levels the floor at the same time. Mastics that are recommended for residential premises include: Gumilax, Homakoll, Omega Bustilat.
Regardless of how you adhere linoleum to concrete, the surface must be thoroughly cleaned before applying tape or adhesive. Before applying the mastic, also treat it with a primer. When using mastic, a layer of 0.4-0.5 mm of glue is sufficient for reliable fixation.
How to glue panels to concrete (wood and MDF)
You can glue panels to concrete, no matter if it’s MDF or PVC, using liquid nails. To do this, large drops of liquid nails are applied to the panels along the perimeter every 10-15 cm. It is advisable to wait a few minutes for the glue to thicken, and then glue the panel to the concrete. Liquid nails are a water-based adhesive, so there is no strong odor left after gluing.
The second option for gluing wood or MDF to concrete is to use double-sided tape. This fastening method is suitable for thin small structures, e.g. ceiling panels or wooden slats. However, if possible, it is better not to glue the panels to concrete, but to install them on lathing or fasteners. This is a more reliable and durable option.
In any case, in order to glue MDF or wood to concrete, the surface of both concrete and wood must be cleaned, degreased and primed.
Concrete is an irreplaceable material. To work with it you need to use quality equipment, compliance with technologies for working with it, the use of qualified work force and, of course, the selection of reliable and modern adhesive mixtures.
There are different adhesives on the market today for working with concrete. All of them are ready-made mixtures, which include additives, fillers, and cement itself.
Choosing adhesive for cellular concrete blocks
- Hercules for cellular concrete it is worth highlighting among the highest quality and inexpensive. The solution is used in the construction of external and interior walls from highly porous materials, including cellular concrete. Also suitable for eliminating small defects in walls and floors. Before use, the surface must be sanded, remove dirt, lubricating oils, bitumen. The preparation of glue is carried out by dissolving the powder in water and thoroughly mixing mechanically or manually until a plastic mass is obtained.
- Volma-Block which is designed to eliminate cold bridges at joints. It is used both for installation of gas and foam concrete, and for laying walls. The solution is easily mixed, applied to a clean surface, which, if necessary, is leveled in advance mortar mixture. The finished mixed mixture can be used within three hours, and the glued blocks can be adjusted within ten minutes. Operating temperature range +5…+30С. The glue must be stored in dry rooms on wooden pallets.
When working with any glue that contains cement, you must be careful, be sure to use work clothes, gloves, and protect your skin.
Cellular concrete blocks are held together with special dry mixtures of quartz sand, Portland cement, and additives to improve thermal insulation properties and strength.
Their advantages over simple mortars:
- possibility of applying a thin layer up to 3 mm,
- higher strength and water holding capacity,
- reducing the number of cold bridges.
Preparation of the composition begins by pouring the contents of the bag of powder into water.
- Mixing is done using a drill or stirrer.
- The resulting solution should be thick, plastic, and not spread when applied.
- For use ready mixture is given for about three hours, after which it begins to thicken and requires repeated stirring.
Even a person who is far from construction must understand that in the process of erecting such a complex structure as a house, it is often necessary to connect various Construction Materials, differing in their physical characteristics. Their different properties sometimes make them difficult to combine with each other, especially when it is necessary to reliably fasten such different building materials as wood and concrete.
Attaching timber to the foundation of a house when constructing a log house or joist to a concrete floor - typical examples challenges facing the builder in bonding dissimilar materials.
Let's consider the question of possible options for reliable fastening of the beam to concrete foundation, and then a lag to a similar floor.
General questions about timber fastening
During construction wooden house in the form of a log house or frame dwelling, the question often arises of how to reliably fasten the timber to a concrete foundation, how to fasten the lower crowns to the concrete surface as reliably as possible, so that you don’t have to worry about the safety of the structure. The wooden beam is attached to the grillage using two methods that have been known for quite some time: rigid fixation and overhead installation.
- As the name suggests, the essence of the first method is reliable fixation wooden beam to the concrete base using several special foundation bolts or steel clamps. If you decide to use bolts, then this method of fastening will be permanent and non-dismountable, and fastening with clamps implies the ability to disassemble the entire structure if necessary.
- The overhead fastening consists of simply installing the timber on top of the grillage without any fixation. On the one hand, the beam is loose and movable, but due to its weight it is securely installed without additional fastening.
It is clear that the first option is much more reliable and provides more guarantees of the reliability of fastening the beam to the concrete foundation. But the second option is more common. This is due to lower installation complexity and, accordingly, lower cost. And the rather significant mass of the entire structure gives sufficient reliability of fastening to the base and immobility lower crown log house
You will have to independently choose the option that is suitable for your case. If there is no strong winds, the total weight of the house will be quite significant, and the builders are confident in the reliability of the overhead option, then it may be worth choosing a cheaper option.
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Rigid fastening of timber to the foundation
The first beam is attached to the foundation using anchor bolts and only after the foundation has completely hardened.
To carry out rigid fastening of timber to such common types of foundations as slab or strip, it is necessary to carry out a series of preparatory activities. They can be carried out at the stage of foundation construction or immediately after completion of pouring or installation. They consist primarily in the fact that even at the stage of pouring concrete into the foundation grillage ( concrete tape or slabs) install special foundation bolts with the studs facing up. It is to these studs that the beam of the future structure will be attached. The fastening process itself will consist of inserting a timber with a pre-prepared hole onto a stud and screwing it using a locknut. A tightly twisted pin-locknut pair reliably attaches the beam to the surface of the grillage.
Let's look at the process using an example slab foundation in more detail and by stages:
- So, after finishing pouring the foundation, those same foundation bolts are immersed in the wet mass of concrete with the studs up and the bases down (they can be conical or simply curved). The distance between the bolts must be at least half a meter, and each individual wooden element must be secured with at least two fixation points.
- The next step is to prepare the timber. Preparation involves drilling holes for the foundation bolts. Here you need to be careful when measuring.
- If you have not yet checked the evenness of the grillage, now is the time to do so. It is necessary to check the horizontal position and eliminate all possible defects- Fill the recesses with solution, trim off the bulges. The timber can only be attached to a flat concrete surface.
- At the fourth stage, it is necessary to lay waterproofing, in most cases it is simple roofing felt. It is impossible to lay timber directly on concrete.
- Then the prepared wooden structures. The bars should lie so that drilled holes All the studs from the bolts were included.
- How to connect the corners is up to you. Can be connected into a paw or into a bowl. If you want to make the connection more reliable, then use metal corners to fasten the beams, which are attached to them using self-tapping screws.
- At the last stage, we begin to twist the structure using locknuts, having previously placed washers under them. In order to avoid distortion of the structure, the nuts are tightened little by little and in parallel. That is, we make several turns of one nut, then move on to the second and make the same number of turns there.
This process is described for a slab base. To attach the beam to a strip foundation, you need to do all the same operations, except for installing the foundation bolts.
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Pile foundation and timber fastening to it
In some areas the use of slab or strip foundation difficult, only piles or screw options foundations of the future house. Therefore, the issue of attaching timber to them is relevant for many homeowners. Here the fastening follows a slightly different pattern. After installing the piles, special U-shaped steel caps are attached to their upper part. A beam of timber is laid between the steel plates of this head, and then the beam is fastened through the holes in these plates using screws or studs. If you want to use studs, you will also have to drill through the timber. This will not provide better fastening compared to self-tapping screws, but it will cause much more trouble. So it is recommended to choose last option fastenings Let's analyze this type of fastening step by step:
- It is first necessary to prepare the beams by cutting them according to the existing parameters. The beams must be used with a square cross-section.
- The second stage is the installation of the heads. To do this, prepared sections of timber are laid on the piles, and steel angle brackets are inserted under them. Having measured the width of the beam in this way, the heads are fastened to the piles by welding. After this, the welded corners are used as beacons for attaching the remaining heads. The beam can already be removed at this time.
- In this type of fastening, it is also necessary to lay waterproofing between the steel of the ends and the wood of the beam. The most common type of insulation is ordinary roofing felt. Contact of wood with concrete and steel is unacceptable.
- All that remains is to lay the prepared beams, fastening them together in the corners by placing them in a paw, in a bowl, or placing them on spikes.
- All preparation is completed, you can fasten the lower log of the log house or light beam frame house with steel heads. As already mentioned, you can fasten them with studs (then you will have to drill holes in the wood) or self-tapping screws. It is recommended to choose the latter option, since the first does not provide any advantages and will add more hassle.
Installation of timber without rigid fixation proceeds according to the following scheme. To do this, not a U-shaped, but a T-shaped steel top is attached to the pile.
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Attaching joists to a concrete floor
The second common case in construction of attaching a wooden beam to a concrete surface is installing joists on the concrete floor. Modern methods of floor equipment are very diverse: they use various insulating materials, heated floors, various solutions for leveling and improving the floor surface, etc.
But even today there is an option to install conventional wooden logs quite relevant for both houses and apartments. This method of laying floors is used, as a rule, in houses where there are no problems with ceiling heights, but where one would like to save on expensive insulating materials.
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The process of attaching lags
Attaching joists to a concrete floor is quite simple; you just need to stock up on three things - material, tools and patience. Such work can easily be carried out independently, without specialists or assistants. The options for fastening wooden logs to concrete are quite numerous; moreover, it is even possible to refuse any fastening of the logs to the concrete surface. In this case, the strength of the structure is ensured by the reliable connection of the logs with floorboards, laminate or other flooring. But this technique is full of risks of accidental shift of the boards relative to the timber, that is, everything flooring may turn out to be skewed due to the slightest inattention. Therefore, it is better not to take risks and stick to the classics, which is to attach the joists to the concrete using self-tapping screws or other fasteners.
Having prepared everything necessary materials and tools, we proceed to the installation of joists:
- The first step is to lay waterproofing on the concrete floor; this is usually either roofing felt or plastic film. Carefully glue the joints using construction tape so that not a single crack remains.
- After this we install the logs. Two of them are laid along opposite walls, and the rest are connected to each other. Distance between cross beams is installed depending on many factors, but this is mainly due to the strength of the flooring and how confidently it will lie on the joists without sagging. The stronger the floor material, the shorter the step between the beams. But in general, the distance ranges from 50 to 80 cm.
- The logs can be connected end to end if large loads are not expected. Otherwise, special cutouts are made at the ends of the logs to connect them more tightly to each other.
- After laying the two main logs, use a level and rulers to measure the horizon and set the same height. For the convenience of laying transverse logs, stretch the cord to the location where the timber will be installed.
- It's time to start actually attaching the joists to the concrete floor. For this purpose, both in the log itself and in concrete floor drill symmetrical holes. Either a polypropylene plastic dowel or the locking part of a steel anchor is inserted into the hole in the concrete floor. The logs are fastened to the concrete either with self-tapping screws or bolts. To securely fasten the log to the floor, 2-3 anchors are enough. One self-tapping screw is required approximately every 40-80 cm.
- In some cases, you cannot do without special pads made of plywood, thin boards or chipboard. They are inserted between the joists and the insulating material to level the structure. The purpose of these gaskets is to combat the sagging of the joists, and therefore the creaks of future floors. Of course, such gaskets are already an indicator of poor quality work by the person who poured the concrete on the floor, because ideally it should be completely even, but sometimes such minor flaws still happen even among recognized masters. Especially complex cases may even require cutting out a recess in the timber for a convex uneven floor.
Proper installation of joists will help avoid problems such as squeaky or uneven floors.
After all the joists have been laid, the pre-selected one is laid between them. thermal insulation material. Another waterproofing layer is laid over the joists and before installing the floors. This allows you to make the floor both durable and warm enough without spending extra money. That is, according to the price-quality criterion, this is one of best options construction of an effective floor. Exactly simple circuit Attaching the logs to the concrete surface allows you to achieve such good results.
You can achieve all this yourself, the technology of attaching the timber to the foundation concrete and the log to concrete surfaces It is not complicated, it is accessible even to one person. But when preparing for such work, you should not skimp on materials; it is better to choose the logs and beams that are suitable for you, of exactly the required cross-section and quality. Don’t skimp on tools, especially since the most complex of them will most likely be a hammer drill; the rest of the materials are consumables (screws, bolts, anchors, waterproofing materials, etc.).
You will succeed. Good luck in your endeavors!