Designing and installing a boiler room in your own home is a serious and responsible matter. It must be approached, armed, first of all, with regulatory documentation, and also with the advice of experts in this field. In addition, when installing a furnace, you need to remember both the ease of maintenance of the equipment and free access to shut-off and control valves. In this material we will outline what a boiler room should be like in a private house in accordance with regulatory requirements.
Boiler room requirements
The best option is to develop a combustion diagram at the design stage, when construction has not yet begun. Then there is an opportunity to carefully study the regulatory documentation relating to this issue and foresee everything in advance. The most stringent requirements for a boiler room for a gas boiler are imposed specifically in the Russian Federation (instructions for placing heat generators MDS 41–2.2000), and we will rely on them, making reservations at key points.
Gas boiler equipment It is allowed to install in the kitchen or in a separate furnace room located on the ground floor, in the basement or basement of the house. In addition, heat generators can be placed in extensions or free-standing buildings, as well as on a flat roof, provided that the requirements for load-bearing capacity and reliability of the coating are met. The restrictions here are:
- The equipment installed in the kitchen has a power limit of no more than 60 kW.
- In a separate or attached room, you can install heat sources for heating and hot water supply with a total capacity of no more than 350 kW. If this indicator is exceeded, then there is only one option left - the construction of a separate heat generator.
- The height of the room in any case must be at least 2.5 m.
For water heaters whose thermal power does not exceed 150 kW, MDS 41–2.2000 standards regulate not the area of the room for a gas boiler, but its volume. Regardless of where the unit will be located, the volume of the room must be at least 15 m3. To this value is added an additional volume equal to 0.2 m3 for each kilowatt of boiler power.
In addition, the need for maintenance must be taken into account when arranging equipment. If it is required for the boiler itself or other equipment located nearby, then a passage at least 700 mm wide must be left on the side or rear, and at least 1 m from the protruding part of the front panel of the unit to the nearest partition (Rules for the design and operation of boilers).
If the total power of the heaters installed in a built-in building or room exceeds 150 kW, the area of the boiler room and its volume are standardized based on ease of maintenance and installation utility networks. In this case, the room cannot be located inside the building, that is, it must be adjacent to external wall, in which windows need to be provided. They are designed to perform 2 functions: serve as sources natural light and act as easily jettisonable structures in the event of a gas explosion. Dimensions are taken at the rate of 0.03 m2 of window area in the boiler room (glass) for every 1 m3 of room volume.
In accordance with clause 5.5 of MDS 41–2.2000, internal and attached furnace rooms require direct access to the street, and in connection with this an external door to the boiler room is installed. Passage into the house is also allowed, but this door will have to be made fireproof. There are additional requirements for extensions:
- The extension must be located against a blank wall of the building, maintaining a distance of 1 m from the nearest opening.
- The enclosing structures of the house and the extension should be based on separate foundations and not connected to each other.
- The walls of the attached part are made of materials that provide a fire resistance rating of at least 45 minutes.
Note. The regulatory documentation of Ukraine does not require an exit to the street or an additional external door.
Electric, liquid and solid fuel boilers
If electricity is used to produce heat, then the placement of equipment is regulated by design standards such as the Electrical Installation Rules (RUE). But these rules do not directly prohibit the installation of an electric heater in a particular room, so it is better to place it in a separate room, which is dictated by considerations of practicality and safety.
When heating of a building is provided by heat sources that burn solid or liquid fuels, their location is regulated only by SNiP II-35–76. It states that such heat generators must be placed in a special separate room. In this case, the equipment layout is based on two principles: sequence technological processes and ease of maintenance, and the area of the boiler room is not standardized.
The arrangement according to technology assumes a certain sequence, starting from water filtration devices and ending with distribution combs and equipment for hot water supply. This standard is advisory in nature, as it ensures some order in an autonomous boiler room, but its strict implementation is not always possible. But ease of maintenance is a mandatory criterion, therefore the Rules for the Design and Operation of Boilers for this purpose provide for the following requirements:
- The distance from the liquid fuel boiler burner to the opposite wall is at least 1 m, from the front protruding part of the solid fuel unit to the same wall is at least 2 m.
- When 2 wood-burning heat generators stand opposite each other, the clearance between them is maintained at 5 m, so such a layout is unacceptable for a private developer, since in this situation minimum dimensions boiler room will double in size.
- When the passport for heating equipment indicates that side or rear maintenance is required, then in these places it is necessary to provide a passage 1.5 m wide. If maintenance is not needed, then the clearance should be 700 mm.
- In places of passages, nothing should block the clearance up to a height of 2 m.
Ventilation requirements
In this regard, the most stringent requirements are for gas boiler houses. The hood must provide air flow at the rate of three times exchange in 1 hour. This means that within an hour air environment the room will be completely updated three times. The calculation is simple: by multiplying the area by the height, the volume of the room is determined, after which the result is multiplied by 3. As a rule, in private houses and cottages, the hood is organized natural, through a vertical shaft or pipe.
In turn, the task of the supply ventilation of the boiler room is to compensate for the exhaust air and supply the air mixture for the combustion process. This mixture is taken by the heat generator and then thrown out along with the combustion products through the chimney. Accordingly, consumption supply air– this is the sum of the consumption of the air mixture for exhaust and combustion, as prescribed in the standards.
To provide required amount inflow, a flow grille is built into the entrance doors. Through it, air masses, stimulated by the operation of the hood, enter the boiler room of a private house. The grille can be built into either outer door, and into the internal one, due to which heated air will enter the boilers and their operating efficiency will increase.
In the situation with liquid fuel units, it is recommended to comply with the same requirements for boiler room ventilation as when working on natural gas. Air is also needed here for combustion and for ventilation, since dust, dirt from coal and harmful fumes from diesel fuel will enter the room along with the fuel. An exception is an electric boiler; it does not need a chimney, combustion air, or ventilation. It is enough to use a scheme with a single natural air exchange.
Before installing a boiler room, it is recommended to follow several useful tips:
1. You cannot rely only on information published on various Internet resources. Any statements or advice read in articles or even books require confirmation or at least should not be refuted by the relevant standards.
2. Having studied the standards and requirements for boiler rooms, it is worth consulting with the regulatory services that give the go-ahead for the operation of your furnace room. The specialists of these services will point out nuances that you might have missed. This is especially true for the installation and connection of gas-using units.
3. Carry out the development together with the design organization, or, if your heating scheme is very simple and the heating output is small, then at least consult with a design engineer knowledgeable in this topic.
4. Don't get confused regulatory framework different countries CIS. For example, when in Russia, use the regulations of this country; do not take Ukrainian or Belarusian documents from the Internet, they may contain significant differences.
When installing equipment and pipelines, you need to take into account some points that can subsequently simplify your life. For example, not every unit requires pouring a foundation; light boilers weighing up to 50 kg can be safely placed directly on the screed, the main thing is that it is made with high quality. Another point is the diagram of the boiler room in a private house, according to which the installation will be carried out. It must provide not only distances in accordance with the standards, but also free access to shut-off and control valves, drain pipes and electrical equipment.
When installing taps, valves and other elements, you should worry about how you will remove or change them later, especially in polypropylene systems. Place automation and control devices in such a way that they are clearly visible from the front door. Sometimes, if the boiler room in a cottage is powered by natural gas, then sensors for exceeding the concentration of methane and carbon monoxide are installed in it, connected to a gas shut-off valve. Such an event will not be superfluous, especially if the power of the equipment is high.
Conclusion
It is very important to correctly approach the arrangement of equipment and develop a diagram of the laid networks. Having completed this work efficiently and in accordance with the standards, you can reach the optimal size of the boiler room and free up more space for the living space of your house or cottage.
Boiler room in a private house - how to equip it, diagram, calculation and operation,
A boiler room is a necessity in a private home, it’s hard to argue with that. In this article, the best construction journalists in Russia will talk about how to equip a boiler room, provide calculations and diagrams of its equipment.
Boilers for home and private boiler rooms
When should you choose a single-circuit boiler?
The main task of a single-circuit boiler is to heat the building, but if necessary, it can heat water for the hot water system, heated floors, swimming pool, etc. To provide the house with hot water, such units must be supplemented with special equipment. Most often, this is a free-standing storage tank (boiler) fixed under the boiler or on the wall, filled with water, which is heated using coolant from the boiler.
It makes sense to choose a single-circuit boiler equipped with a boiler, especially when the house has a high need for high-temperature hot water (the volume of a free-standing boiler for private houses is usually 100-260 liters).
You can also install several storage tanks at once. However, due to the need for additional equipment, a system with a single-circuit boiler is noticeably more expensive than a double-circuit heat generator. A free-standing boiler takes up quite a lot of space in the room. In addition, a single-circuit boiler cannot be called an economical solution, since it will turn on regularly (consuming gas and electricity) in order to maintain the set water temperature in the storage tank even when hot water is not used.
Is it true that double-circuit boilers are more economical?
Double-circuit heat generators are initially designed both for heating a building and for preparing hot water, the heating of which occurs due to a flow-through heat exchanger located inside the unit (plate, bithermic, etc.). Such a boiler cannot operate both for heating and DHW at the same time, so it usually provides DHW priority. That is, the moment the hot water tap is opened, the boiler switches to heating it. There is no need to be afraid that stopping heating of the coolant for the heating system will lead to the cooling of the house in winter.
Modern buildings, especially those built with effective thermal insulation, cool down very slowly. However, with active use of hot water, the rooms can cool to an uncomfortable temperature. The advantage of double-circuit boilers is their compactness and low price compared to single-circuit heat generators equipped with boilers. In addition, water for domestic hot water is heated directly in the boiler and only at the time when it is needed, that is, such a heat generator is truly economical.
The main disadvantage of such units is the inability to obtain in flow mode large quantity hot water: maximum 9-15 l/min. depending on the boiler power. This is enough to take a shower. However, if during bathing procedures a hot water tap is opened in another place, the temperature of the water in the shower may decrease. Thus, a double-circuit boiler is suitable for a cottage with a small number of residents or for a house where there will be few simultaneously used water points.
The disadvantages of this type of boiler include the fact that the inhabitants of the house have to wait several seconds before open tap hot water will come out. Waiting time depends on various factors, including the diameter of the pipes and the distance of the water collection point from the heat generator. To compensate for these shortcomings, manufacturers offer double-circuit boilers, the casing of which contains small boilers (volume 20-50 liters for wall-mounted models) that provide a supply of hot water. But even in this case, there may be some delay in its supply. In addition, the boiler will have to constantly maintain the water temperature in such a boiler, which will lead to increased gas and electricity consumption.
When is it better to choose a wall-mounted boiler, and when to choose a floor-standing boiler?
The range of rated power of modern wall-mounted boilers for private homes is very wide - usually from 12 to 60 kW. Their main advantages compared to floor-mounted ones of the same power are smaller dimensions and the ability to abandon the installation of a boiler room, which is important for cottages small area. According to SNiP 41 -01 -2003 “Heating, ventilation and air conditioning”, heat generators with a power of up to 35 kW can be installed in kitchens and corridors. Moreover, the space under the wall-mounted boiler can be used rationally. In addition, such models are relatively lightweight (since the material of their heat exchangers is copper or aluminum alloy), which usually makes it easy to mount the device on the wall.
Thus, a 24 kW boiler weighs approximately 25-30 kg. If it is necessary to heat a building of a large area, it makes sense to use high-power floor-standing boilers. Let's add that they have cast iron heat exchangers, which differ very much for a long time services. However, floor-standing units not only require the installation of a boiler room, but also take up a lot of space in it, since around the perimeter of the heat generator (which is more massive than a wall-mounted one of the same power) there must be free space for its maintenance. In addition, unlike wall-mounted, floor-standing boilers are usually sold incompletely (you need to additionally purchase a pump, etc.).
When purchasing a boiler, is it possible to choose the type of burner?
Structurally, burners are divided into atmospheric and fan (pressurized). In devices of the first type, gas is supplied due to the pressure generated in the main gas network. These burners do not have a fan, so
they are practically silent (only the burning of the flame can be heard) and are significantly cheaper than supercharged ones. In addition, boilers with atmospheric burners can operate on both main and liquefied gas (switching from one type of fuel to another will require replacing nozzles and reconfiguring gas equipment).
Burners of the second type forcefully mix gas with air using an electric fan, thereby providing a more stable fuel combustion mode. But such devices are expensive in themselves and more expensive to operate. In addition, they make more noise than atmospheric ones, so boilers equipped with them are placed in a separate room or covered with a special sound-absorbing casing. In essence, the consumer can choose not the type of burner for the boiler, but the type of boiler.
The fact is that there are atmospheric heat generators: they have the appropriate burners installed at the factory, which cannot be replaced with fan burners. Such boilers operate only on gas. At the same time, there are heat generators that can operate on both gas and liquid fuel (diesel fuel). They are equipped only with fan burners. Note that a heat generator with a forced-air burner requires a smoke channel of smaller diameter than an atmospheric boiler of the same power. This is an important argument for those customers who purchase a boiler in a situation where a boiler room with a chimney of a certain cross-section has already been built.
Is it possible to independently calculate the boiler power for a cottage?
You can get an idea of the approximate power based on the area of the house: heating 1 m2 requires about 0.1 kW. However, this figure is very approximate. To accurately determine the required power, you need a thermal engineering calculation that takes into account not only the area of the building, but also the climatic zone where construction is taking place, as well as all possible heat losses (through walls, windows, ceilings, etc.). In addition, one should proceed from the need for DHW (in this case, the boiler power should be such that the boiler provides both DHW and heating in full at peak loads). You also need to decide on other intended heat consumers - a swimming pool, forced-air ventilation, separate buildings (guest houses, bathhouses, greenhouses, etc.).
Is the high cost of condensing boilers justified?
To heat water, conventional boilers use only the heat obtained during the combustion of fuel. Condensing boilers They also use additional heat, which they “take away” from flue gases due to the condensation of the water vapor contained in them in a special heat exchanger. Units of this type are much more expensive than classic heat generators, but they can significantly reduce electricity and gas consumption. In addition, they are equipped with special flameless burners that produce infrared radiation, thanks to which the fuel burns completely, which means the amount of harmful emissions into the atmosphere is reduced.
The temperature of the flue gases leaving the boiler is quite low (often below 40 °C), so they can be removed using plastic chimneys, which is an inexpensive and easy-to-implement solution. At the same time, there are many nuances in the operation of condensing boilers. Thus, to achieve high efficiency, it is necessary that the unit heats the coolant to 50 °C (that is, to a lower temperature than in standard heating systems).
Consequently, the reduction in gas consumption for such a boiler will mostly occur in the off-season, when it is possible to heat the premises using heated floors (which require a coolant with a temperature of 50 ° C). According to many experts, in winter, in a heating situation using radiators, the boiler will inevitably heat the coolant to a higher temperature than needed for condensation mode, and it will not be possible to save gas: the boiler will operate with the same efficiency as a classic unit.
In addition, a single-circuit heat generator, supplemented by a boiler, will have to heat the coolant to more high temperatures every time there is a need for hot water at a temperature of 50 ° C for the domestic hot water system in the house. When using condensing boilers, the radiator area must be larger than in the standard case. Another nuance is that it is necessary to remove condensate, which has high acidity, from the boiler.
Where should the boiler chimney be located?
The chimney can be brought outside in two ways - through the roof or through the building’s enclosing wall (if there is one in the boiler room), then attaching it to the facade. Note that the diameter of the smoke channel is determined by the diameter of the pipe in the boiler (the diameter is determined by the power of the heat generator and constructive solutions manufacturer). In this regard, difficulties may arise when installing a chimney passing through the premises.
After all, a shaft for it is built at the initial stage of building a house, but as construction progresses, additional loads often appear that require the installation of a more powerful boiler, which requires a chimney of a larger diameter than is permissible for use in an already made shaft. If you purchase such a boiler and connect it to a chimney with a smaller diameter than necessary, then there is a high probability that the gas supply organization will refuse to connect the cottage to the gas pipeline, since the chimney will not provide the necessary draft and the boiler will not be able to operate in normal mode. Therefore, even at the design stage of the building, it is necessary to finally decide on the boiler model and know what the diameter of its smoke channel will be.
Finishing a private boiler room inside the house
What and how can you decorate the boiler room from the inside?
According to current standards, the boiler room must be separated from adjacent rooms by walls made of non-combustible materials. Enclosing structures made of brick or concrete are usually plastered and painted. Can serve as additional finishing ceramic tile or metal panels. It is impossible to leave mineral surfaces in their original form - they will inevitably become dusty, which has an extremely bad effect on the operation of the boiler. If the walls are wooden, they can be impregnated with a fire retardant compound, covered with reflective thermal insulation, and then sheathed with GKLO (fire-resistant plasterboard).
The floor must be leveled using a cement-sand screed. It is very important to protect the boiler room equipment from leakage by organizing a drain ladder. If this is not possible for any reason, before finishing Along the entire perimeter of the room, to a height of approximately 5-10 cm (depending on the size of the boiler room and the amount of water in the heating system), you need to lay waterproofing, roll or coating, to ensure waterproofness and tightness. In this case, the boiler should be placed on a pedestal so that the device does not come into contact with water. It is recommended to use ceramic or porcelain tiles as the final floor covering. As for the top floor, it is usually simply painted.
When should you choose a coaxial chimney?
A coaxial chimney is a “pipe within a pipe.” Exhaust gases are removed from the furnace through the inner pipe due to a fan, and air is sucked in through the outer pipe to burn the fuel. Such chimneys are only suitable for heat generators with a closed combustion chamber. The main advantage of a coaxial chimney is the ability to route it horizontally through an external wall, and the length of the pipe can be only 1-3 m.
Thus, the customer saves significantly on the construction of the chimney system. However, according to a number of experts, such a chimney has disadvantages. In particular, flue gases can be directed towards the facade of the building, which will damage it appearance and cause destruction of the finish, as well as create inconvenience to the inhabitants of the house if gases penetrate into the premises through open windows. A coaxial chimney discharged vertically (through the roof) is free from these disadvantages. But it is much more expensive than usual.
Does the boiler room need ventilation?
One of the most important requirements for a boiler room is the presence of ventilation in the amount of 3 air exchanges. This will allow gas to be removed if there is a slight leak. In addition, if the boiler is not equipped coaxial chimney, ventilation will provide it with the air necessary for fuel combustion. Usually satisfied natural ventilation with an opening for air flow in the form of a louvered grille. It is installed in the door leading from a separate boiler room to the street, or, in the case of in-house boiler rooms, in the outer wall. Air exhaust is carried out using a metal ventilation duct (the use of plastic ducts is unacceptable). The diameter of the louvre grille and ventilation duct is determined by calculation (the inflow should be in the volume of the hood plus the amount of air for gas combustion).
Diagram of the heating and hot water system of a cottage with a boiler room organized in ground floor or basement
The “piping” includes a variety of components and parts that can be divided into boiler fittings (1) gas line elements (2) radiator heating and underfloor heating control unit (3). as well as elements of the cold and hot water supply system (4) For piping the boiler room, only the highest quality fittings and units should be used. Otherwise, the main equipment may not work correctly or even fail prematurely
What are the requirements for a kitchen when installing a boiler in it?
Boilers can be installed in the kitchen with a heating unit power of up to 35 kW inclusive, regardless of availability gas stove and a gas water heater. The volume of the kitchen space is regulated by the standards given in the table. There are other requirements for a kitchen where a gas boiler is installed. So, the ceiling height must be at least 2.5 m. A window with a window opening outward is required. For ventilation, the inflow must be equal to the exhaust volume plus the amount of air for gas combustion.
It is important to consider that a 30% power reserve will only be sufficient if the hood is located directly above the boiler. In other cases, you should add another 15% for each turn of the air duct pipe and another 10% for each meter of air duct. The ventilation duct must be brought to the height of the chimney. For air flow, it is necessary to provide a grille or gap with an area of at least 0.025 m2 at the bottom of the door to the adjacent room.
The boiler is installed on a wall made of non-flammable material, while a special fastening system provides a gap of at least 10 cm between them. In addition, it is allowed to mount the boiler on plastered walls and walls with non-combustible or low-flammable cladding, provided that the specified gap is observed, as well as the wall surface is insulated with a screen made of roofing steel sheet over an asbestos sheet thickness of at least 3 mm. The screen should protrude beyond the equipment body by 10 cm from the bottom and sides and 70 cm from the top.
It should be emphasized that the instructions for the boiler always indicate installation data, which may differ slightly from those given in regulatory documents. In this case, it would be wiser to rely not on generalized figures from SNiPs, but on figures from the manufacturer.
Calculation of power M hood
M = (SxHxn) + 30%
where: S – kitchen area, m2; H – kitchen ceiling height, m; n>3 – air exchange rate (according to SES standards) in the kitchen where the gas boiler is located; 30% is the minimum power reserve required for effective cleaning air.
The volume of the kitchen space depending on the power of the installed boiler |
|
Total thermal power of heating gas equipment, kW | Room volume, m 3 |
Up to 30 | 7,5 |
From 30 to 60 | 13.5 |
From 60 to 200 | Based on the conditions of placement and operation of gas equipment, but not less than 15 |
Boiler room operation
How to protect a boiler room from fire?
The basic fire safety requirements for a boiler room are formulated in SNiP 41-01-2003 ‘Heating, ventilation and air conditioning’ and in MDS 41-2.2000 ‘Instructions for the placement of thermal units intended for heating and hot water supply of single-family or semi-detached residential buildings’. Here are some important points.
If the boiler house building is separate, it should be located at the blank part of the wall of the main house at a horizontal distance from the window and doorways not less than 1 m. The structure cannot be connected to the wall of a residential building. The enclosing walls and structures of the boiler room must have a fire resistance limit of 0.75 hours, and the limit of fire spread through them must be zero. The permissible ceiling height is from 2.5 m. It is necessary to provide glazing in the boiler room at the rate of 0.03 m2 per 1 m3 of its volume. The structure must have a door leading directly to the outside. A second exit to the utility room is possible, but the door there should be made fireproof, of the third type.
Boiler room piping
Why does a boiler room need piping?
To supply coolant from the boiler to the heating system, and water from the water heater to DHW system, it is necessary to ensure the safety of flow of heated liquids under pressure. To do this, water heating and expansion tanks, circulation pumps, thermometers, pressure gauges and other sensors are connected by shut-off and distribution and safety valves and entangled in a network of pipes. With a heating area of up to 80 m2, the boiler (most often a double-circuit wall-mounted type) can be installed in the kitchen or bathroom, and in a more spacious home it is more convenient to allocate a special room, for example, in the basement or create a boiler room (furnace room) on the ground floor with its own entrance, or even in a separate building, where all the equipment is assembled - the so-called harness. There are certain layout rules: for example, a gas boiler must be equipped with a pressure gauge, thermometer, fuse, emergency thermostat and safety sensors, and connected to the gas main only with metal pipe. If these requirements are not met, the gas simply will not be connected. Before installation begins, you need to make electrical wiring, entering the house from the main gas pipe and extend it to the boiler, as well as install water supply and sewerage.
Why is modular piping of a boiler room convenient?
Modular construction has only recently begun to be used. It is like the skeleton of a boiler room, since it usually contains elements of a safety group, thermometers, a circulation pump, a three-way valve and other fittings, ready for quick installation in the boiler room. Such a module simply needs to be connected to the boiler and to the heating and hot water system circuits. In itself, it is optional, all elements can be assembled separately, but its use greatly simplifies the installation of the system, and most importantly, it eliminates concerns about completeness, the diameter of the piping pipes and thread compatibility. The thermohydraulic module can be either imported or domestic, and manufacturers offer a whole line of models, each of which is designed for a certain range of thermal power and a different number of consumers. Included with any model detailed instructions for self-assembly of modular harness.
Is an expansion tank always needed?
The expansion tank is used to compensate for the increase in the volume of coolant or water during heating. An increase in the volume of liquid can create pressure that exceeds the strength limit of the seals in the places where the shut-off and distribution valves are attached, and, on the contrary, its decrease (with a decrease in temperature) can disrupt the circulation of the coolant. These phenomena will not occur when installing an expansion tank that collects excess liquid and compensates for its deficiency.
The volume of the tank is calculated as the difference in the increase in the volume of liquid with the maximum permissible change in its temperature in the system, taking into account the minimum hydrostatic and maximum permissible pressure values. There are three types of tanks - for coolant (usually red), for drinking water (blue) and for hot water (white). In a heating system with forced circulation, closed tanks are used, which are located either in the boiler body (wall-mounted) or in convenient location boiler room piping, and with natural circulation - open (connected to the atmosphere), they are placed at the top point of the system. By the way, the latter have many disadvantages, so they are used less and less.
How is the safety of the equipment guaranteed?
Two groups of devices are used - for the boiler and for the water heater. The boiler safety group is a set of devices for measuring pressure, limiting it and removing air. Three main instruments - a pressure gauge, a safety valve and an air vent - are collected in one housing. There are boilers with a built-in safety group, but these are mainly double-circuit wall-mounted gas units. The safety group is often located above the top point of the boiler so that the air vent works correctly. From safety valve there should be a coolant or water recovery pipe that will flow out when the vent is activated. Any element can be replaced. An important safety requirement is the presence of a grounding circuit for the boiler. This is a condition for gas acceptance, and sometimes a practical necessity - many imported units simply do not start in the absence of grounding. The circuit must have a resistance of at least 10 ohms, which is confirmed by the “Act for the grounding circuit of a gas boiler”.
A water heater safety group is necessary to ensure that the pressure in it does not rise above the set value. Often a pressure relief valve is included with small heaters, but for a boiler or device with a volume of over 100 liters, a safety group is needed. It will prevent pressure build-up, prevent hot water from flowing back into the water supply, and is equipped with performance monitoring and protection tools. Also, for boilers with a volume of more than 80 liters, in addition to the safety group, the use of hydraulic accumulators for hot water supply is mandatory. Even if for some reason there is boiling water under pressure in the boiler, the maximum that will happen is that the membrane will burst, but even then the hot water will not leave the system. The water heater safety group is always installed at the entrance cold water in the direction indicated on the housing.
What are the benefits of a prepaid meter?
Installation of a gas meter is mandatory when using main gas; it is fixed in the project for gasification of a residential building and is carried out by a specialized organization when installing the gas pipeline entry into the building. The use of liquefied gas does not require the installation of a meter.
According to the principle of operation, there are diaphragm and membrane devices, and according to the type of payment - with a prepayment card and with a periodic payment for the volume of gas consumed. Money is pre-paid onto a prepaid card, then it is inserted into the meter, and as gas is consumed, the funds are debited. The controller controls the operation of such a device. When purchasing a meter of any type, you must know the nominal gas flow rate, for example 4 m3/hour and the diameter of the connecting thread (most often 1 '/L - The devices operate silently and are equipped with a blocker that prevents gas backflow. The temperature of the working medium should be in the range from - 30 to +50 “C. Average service life is 25 years, and the calibration interval is 10 years.
What types of automation for floor-standing boilers are most popular?
The main types of automation are: thermostat, electronic constant temperature boiler, electronic with weather-dependent boiler temperature and electronic with weather-dependent control of radiator heating with support for mixers (we are talking about mixing taps that regulate the temperature of the coolant in a separate heating circuit by mixing water from the boiler with water from the return line).
The simplest type of automation is thermostatic. In this case, turning the burner devices on and off is carried out by a thermostat installed in the boiler casing. When the temperature in the boiler reaches the set value, the contact is activated and the burner is switched off. Here, the possibilities of electronic control are minimal. This is the cheapest automation option, reliable, but low in energy costs.
The most effective is the last of the above modifications. The set of such automation also includes a sensor outside temperature, which is installed on the facade of the building on the north side. When setting up the controller, a temperature coefficient is determined, reflecting the dependence of the temperature of the coolant in the heating circuit on changes weather conditions outside, that is, the colder it is outside, the hotter the coolant in the heating system. To achieve thermal comfort in all rooms and maximum energy savings, additional thermostatic heads are installed on each radiator. The presence of two systems at once - weather-dependent automation and thermostatic heads on radiators - allows you to very accurately monitor and quickly adjust the temperature in all rooms. Thanks to this, overheating/underheating does not occur and fuel is saved. Many manufacturers offer remote heating control via a computer or telephone.
Heating system
Heating - antifreeze instead of water: which one to choose
If you do not live in a house permanently in winter, as well as with frequent cases of a drop in gas pressure in the main pipe during the cold season, there is a danger of interruptions in heating. A prolonged lack of heating can lead to freezing of water in the pipes and failure of the entire heating system. Using a glycol solution (antifreeze) - ethylene or polypropylene - as a coolant will save the system from destruction. Not only does it freeze at a lower temperature than water, but it does not turn into ice, but turns into a jelly-like state. But its viscosity and temperature coefficient are higher than those of water, which should be taken into account when calculating the volume of the expansion tank and selecting the pump power, and the heat capacity is 15-20% lower, and this should be kept in mind when calculating the power of radiators. Steel pipes with zinc coating will not work, and when sealing joints with shut-off and control valves, not any seal will do. Of the two types of antifreeze, only polypropylene contains environmentally friendly additives, but it should still be changed every five years.
Is it possible to set the automatic boiler to live in the house?
For houses permanent residence experts recommend electronic automation with weather-dependent temperature double-circuit boiler and with faucet support function. In this case, you should select a boiler with a certain power reserve so as not to use boiler heating priority. What does it mean? When the boiler heats up, the heating system is turned off, and all the boiler power is used to heat it. As soon as the boiler heats up to the set temperature, the heating turns on again. Is it convenient? No, because the owners live in the cottage permanently, and it is necessary for both the boiler and heating to work simultaneously, providing the necessary comfort. The way out of the situation is to increase the boiler power. For example, if a power of 30 kW is required to heat a house, and another 20 kW to heat a boiler (200-300 l), then you should choose a 50 kW unit. In a house where the owners come only on weekends, you can save on basic equipment and use a scheme with weather-dependent boiler temperature and a direct heating circuit. On weekdays there is no load on the boiler, so the boiler room only works for the heating system. The automation has the ability to set the air temperature in the room not only in the “day-night” mode, but also, for example, to support the “weekday-weekend” function. However, if we use a conventional gas boiler, then autumn-spring period, when it is 0...5 °C outside, overheating of the premises is likely, because the temperature of the coolant in the boiler cannot be lower than 45-55 °C (this is due to the factor of condensation inside the boiler). In this case, the coolant is supplied to the heating system with a deliberately high temperature value, and the building can overheat by 5-6 * C. To avoid this, you need to either use a circuit with a mixer, but then the cost of automation will increase, or install a condensing boiler that can operate at low temperatures (by the way, such equipment works more economically at them than at high temperatures). If no one is watching your house on weekdays, then it makes sense to connect an SMS notification system about accidents.
Is it possible to have a heating system without electricity?
A heating system with natural circulation of coolant is used when the power supply is unstable, and the boiler should also not depend on electricity. Thus, in a gas electric-independent boiler, the temperature is manually regulated by the intensity of the gas supply to the burner. The main disadvantages of electrically independent systems are the lack of automation and the possibility of installing heated floors from such a system. The advantage is uninterrupted operation regardless of the presence of electricity in the house.
The electronic control board eliminates consumer participation in system maintenance. Automated installations provide protection for the boiler from freezing if it operates in energy saving mode. At a certain period of time, the boiler automatically turns on to warm up and the circulation pump starts.
A combined heating system is quite acceptable: in it the boiler is electrically independent, but to increase the efficiency of the system, a circulation pump operating from the mains is used. When de-energized, efficiency drops sharply, since the coolant begins to move naturally - due to convection, and not forcefully. Applying power after troubleshooting will automatically turn on the circulation pump, and the original efficiency of the heating system will be restored.
1. Boiler with weather-sensitive control panel. 2. Street sensor. 3. Room thermostat. 4. Direct heating circuit. 5. Heating circuit 1 with mixer. 6. Heating circuit 2 with mixer 7. Remote access devices. 8. Supply manifold. 9. Return collector. 10. Make-up unit
How to choose a suitable heating scheme?
There are three main heating schemes: single-pipe (a), two-pipe (6) and collector (c). In the first scheme, the heating devices in each riser and supply branch are connected by one pipe, and the coolant flows sequentially through all radiators. In the second, each device is separately connected to two pipes, supply and return, and the coolant flows through radiators independent of each other. Collector circuit is a type of two-pipe. Its peculiarity is that all heating devices have a separate connection through the collector.
The advantage of single-pipe wiring is relative low price heating system design, due to a smaller number of necessary pipes, fittings, etc. There are many more disadvantages. Connecting radiators in series does not allow you to regulate the heating intensity of one of them without consequences for the others, so it is impossible to achieve comfort with this heating option. In addition, if one of the radiators is damaged, repairing it will require turning off the entire system. The exception is the option of a single-pipe system, in which each radiator has a shut-off valve and a jumper of smaller diameter than the inlet and outlet pipes, which allows heat to be transferred without loss to the last device.
It is increasingly being replaced by a two-pipe system (and its version - a collector). Although installation in this case requires a larger number of pipes and connecting elements (and therefore higher and financial expenses), but the advantages of the scheme outweigh this disadvantage. Water, cooling as it passes through the radiator, does not enter another heating device, but goes to the boiler through the return pipeline. As a result, the water temperature at the inlet to each of the radiators corresponds to the calculated one, which allows the use of devices of the same size with the same energy requirements. Two-pipe systems make it possible to optimally regulate the temperature of devices using a thermostatic valve. From a design point of view, the two-pipe scheme also has advantages, since, as a rule, heating pipes are laid hidden, followed by embedding into the structure of the floor and walls.
Connection diagram for combined heating to boiler equipment
1. Chimney
2. Outside temperature sensor
3. Shut-off valve
4. Circulation pump
5. Safety valve
6. Regulatory system
7. Boiler
8. Boiler room ventilation
9. Burner
10. Remote control unit
11. Automatic air vent
12. Underfloor heating piping circuit
13. Coolant temperature sensor
in the supply line after the mixing valve
14. Three-way mixing valve
15. Pressure gauge
16. Thermostatic valve
17. Expansion tank
18. Radiator
A boiler room in a private house with your own hands is possible. But such work should be done strictly in stages. First, you need to decide on the location of the boiler room. It can be free-standing, located inside the house or under the roof in the attic.
Boilers come in several types, depending on the fuel it runs on.
- it is necessary to hide the electrical wiring;
- lighting must be sealed;
- good ventilation.
- Electric boilers will not allow you to save on electricity. But the equipment does not take up much space and is safe compared to other types of devices.
Choosing a radiator is also easy. Radiators differ in the material from which they are made. They can be:
- steel;
- cast iron;
- bimetallic;
- aluminum.
Cast iron, for example, retains heat for a long time, but also takes a long time to heat up. Steel radiators are suitable for using antifreeze. You can adjust its heating temperature. But, naturally, this type of radiator is susceptible to corrosion. Aluminum ones are demanding on the water that circulates in them. The advantages of using them are affordability and good heat dissipation. Bimetallic devices are durable and resistant, but they are characterized by low heat transfer. Radiators are installed under the windows on brackets strictly horizontally. First, markings are made; it is necessary to maintain a distance to the floor of 7 to 15 cm.
Heating systems use pipes made of materials such as metal, copper and metal-plastic. Please note that it is difficult to install metal and copper pipes yourself; this requires special equipment.
The first step in building a boiler room for your private home will be the arrangement for this purpose. separate room. This room should be 15 meters cubic and 2.5 meters high. It must be separated from the rooms in contact with it by a partition made of fire-resistant materials such as concrete, natural stone, porcelain stoneware or others.
When planning, you should consider the location of all devices to ensure easy and quick access. The floor must be covered with tiles.
A screed about 5-6 cm thick is made under the boiler. You will also need to take care of waterproofing to protect against temperature changes. It is best to paint the ceiling. Based on safety measures, this room requires a window, and the walls are insulated with heat-resistant materials. The boiler room must be equipped with an exhaust hood. For quality ventilation, some cut holes at the bottom of the door. Please note that air movement is necessary for stable operation of the boiler. Pay attention to the installation of the chimney: the pipe that goes into the chimney should not be smaller than the outlet from the boiler. Do not forget to consider and ground all electrical equipment.
A boiler room in a room separate from the house must also meet the following requirements: the foundations of the boiler room and the house do not touch. The room cannot be constructed from flammable materials. Availability sewer pipe necessary to drain the coolant. Many home owners prefer this type of boiler room, because they do not need to allocate space for it, it is safer in case of problems.
Installation heating system– it is a responsible and complex matter, it requires certain skills and professionalism. The gas heating boiler system can be double-circuit or single-circuit. One circuit is a heating circuit, and to get hot water you need a heater or boiler. The boiler is selected according to the volume you require. So you will have to perform an accurate calculation of the heating system.
Heating system installation diagram
It is important! Installation of gas equipment must only be carried out by an appropriate organization with permits and certain premises conditions!
- Mounting the boiler on a stand.
- Connection to the chimney.
- Installation of heating radiators.
- Installation of pipes, coolant drainage area.
- Installation of expansion tank and heat pump.
The first start of the system is carried out only in the presence of a specialist. Creating a boiler room in your home yourself is possible, but only if you have technical knowledge, engineering skills and golden hands. This work requires serious calculations and taking into account all safety measures. If you are not confident in your abilities, seek help from a specialized service for installing boiler rooms in private homes.
If the house does not have central heating, then boilers are used to heat the premises. A special room must be adapted for the location of this equipment. Many people know that any heating system, in addition to the boiler, also uses other elements. When arranging a boiler room, the building owner must adhere to all norms and requirements. In this case, costs during equipment maintenance will be minimized, and a warm atmosphere will be provided in the premises.
Components of a heating system for a private home
There are the most different schemes heating. Each owner selects the most suitable one for his building. When choosing, they depend on the type of fuel. Along with it, the power of the system is also taken into account. If the building has a large area, then most often a boiler room is installed in a special room, equipped with a manifold and a hydraulic valve. If the structure is small, then installing an expansion tank will be quite sufficient. For the case under consideration, such a scheme is the most suitable option. Next we present full list equipment necessary to create a boiler room in a private house, and we will also explain the principle of operation in order to understand which boiler room device will be optimal under certain conditions.
A boiler room installed to heat a private house, consists of the following elements:
Arrangement of premises for heating boilers
Each type of heating equipment has its own operating features. Therefore, the room will be arranged differently depending on the selected settings. The photographs allow you to see what a room for a boiler room should look like, the equipment in which operates on different types fuel. We will talk about the main features of the room below.
Requirements and standards
If you decide to equip a boiler room in your private home for efficient heating premises, then by looking at photographs on specialized websites, you can see what the boiler room should look like after all the work is completed.
When deciding which boiler room to choose for a private home, you should first of all read the safety rules during the construction work.
Installation of an external boiler room in a private house
In order to avoid problems during the operation of the boiler room, all work should be carried out in compliance with certain rules and requirements.
Requirements
In some houses the kitchen is the only room, in which boiler room equipment can be located. In such cases, the following requirements are imposed on the arrangement of this room:
- The ceiling height in the room must be at least 2.5 m. The minimum volume of the room should be 15 cubic meters. For each kilowatt of power of equipment placed in the room there should be 0.2 cubic meters;
- A prerequisite is the presence of ventilation in the kitchen in working order. In one hour, it should provide 3 times the air circulation (inflow compensating for the exhaust and combustion of oxygen).
When performing a power calculation ventilation system in the kitchen use the following formula:
M = (S x H x 12) + 30%, where:
M – exhaust power;
H – ceiling height;
S – boiler room area;
12 – number of air changes in one hour, 30% – minimum reserve power of the boiler room for effective air purification.
From the room there must be ventilation duct removed. It must reach the height of the chimney. Only in this case will a threefold air circulation be ensured. Decorative grille the exit from the premises must be closed. It should be located at a distance of 30 cm from the ceiling.
A mandatory requirement for a boiler room in a private house is the presence of a window in the kitchen, through which emergency ventilation will be provided.
Wall mounted gas installations in boiler rooms of private houses they are installed on surfaces that are finished with materials that do not support combustion. You can learn how to carry out installation work correctly if you look at the photographs from the instructions that are available on specialized Internet resources. If there are no such conditions in the room that is being developed as a boiler room, then in this case the installation should be carried out on plastered surfaces. In this case, between the wall and the heating unit there should be maintain a distance of 10 cm.
To insulate the walls of a private house, which are fire-resistant, a metal screen is used. It consists of an asbestos sheet on which a sheet of steel is laid. In this case, the screen is placed so that it extends beyond the body of the device on the sides by 10 cm, and on the top and bottom by 70 cm. Ready option Photos of boiler rooms in a private house clearly demonstrate.
Instructions for piping the boiler
Having installed the boiler room equipment in the basement and received a full-fledged system heating, the boiler must be plumbed. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the location of the boiler is below the level of the installed heating radiators and below the floor. This is extremely important in cases where systems with natural circulation are installed. Next you can go to the main stage.
Making heating in a private house with your own hands is a difficult, but completely doable task. Self-installation allows you to save a significant amount of money. The main advantage of private heating is complete independence from utilities. You can regulate the temperature and turn off the boiler at any time of the year.
Water heating is the most popular. By installing a boiler, it is possible to heat the entire house, rather than individual rooms. The moderate surface temperature of pipes and radiators does not cause a specific odor when dust settles, unlike electric convectors.
From negative aspects highlight the labor intensity of the work and high cost the entire structure. It will be necessary to carry out preventive measures. Leaks are possible during operation.
A water heating system is made up of a heating unit, a network of pipes and radiators. To process and regulate the coolant, an expansion tank and additional attributes are installed.
The expansion tank is an important design element. When heated, water expands. In a closed system, the excess has nowhere to go, so pipes can burst. The tank serves as a liquid intake, where excess water flows.
The basic operating principle of water heating:
- The boiler heats water to a certain temperature;
- Hot liquid flows through pipes into radiators, which heat the room;
- Slightly cooled water is sent to the boiler for further heating.
A closed system occurs: boiler, pipe, radiator, pipe, boiler.
Heating boilers - what are they and how to choose them? Our article will help you: . Rating and review of various boilers.
Pipe layout diagrams: do-it-yourself home heating
Pipe layouts can be: single-pipe – the most economical option and two-pipe.
For the first design, 1 pipe is used, which is a closed loop. The system works as a result of the different densities of cold and hot water. The heated liquid has a lower density and is squeezed out by cold water. Moving along the pipe, it heats the radiators, then returns to the boiler. Each subsequent battery receives a lower water temperature.
For normal functioning and natural circulation, the diameter of the pipe and its angle of inclination are important. The maximum expansion should occur near the boiler, gradually narrowing as it moves away. The same rules apply for return. The tilt angle should be 3-5 degrees. The heating apparatus itself is located in the basement or basement.
This heating design is suitable for one-story house and does not depend on electricity. Most often, such a system is used for solid fuels.
A two-pipe system consists of 2 main pipes. One supplies heated media to the radiator, the other returns cooled water to the boiler. Forced heat distribution is provided by a circulation pump. This system distributes heat more evenly and is used for country house several floors. The downside is the additional costs of consumables.
In addition to the basic attributes you will need:
- Circulation pump;
- Thermostat;
- Devices and means of process automation.
The two-pipe heating system is energy dependent. When it is turned off, the pump stops working. IN winter time A prolonged absence of electricity can lead to system failure.
Selection of materials and boilers: do-it-yourself heating in a private house
Before purchasing equipment and materials, you need to determine the power of the boiler. To do this, they produce taking into account the end walls of windows and passages.
Heating calculation guide:
- For a room of 200 sq. m a boiler of 25 kW will be sufficient;
- House of 300 sq. m will heat equipment of 35 kW;
- From 400 to 600 sq. m will be heated by 60 kW equipment;
- For a larger building comfortable temperature can be obtained with an equipment power of 100 kW.
The next step is the selection and calculation of the pipeline.
The market provides materials from:
- Metal-plastic;
- Polymer;
- Copper;
- Become.
Copper media would be an ideal option. They are durable, easy to use, and can withstand high pressures and temperatures. The only drawback is their high cost.
Steel specimens are now installed extremely rarely. Such pipes require the purchase of special threaded fittings.
Metal-plastic structures have gained wide popularity. The material can withstand heat load well and bends easily under different angles. For installation it is necessary to purchase special fittings. They will facilitate the process of assembling the structure. Metal-plastic belongs to the average price policy.
The cheapest option is polypropylene. To install the system, special equipment for sealing press fittings is required. Resin products expand as the internal temperature increases, and bends can spread out, so there is a risk of water leakage. Such elements have an aesthetic appearance.
Choosing a boiler: water heating in a private house
Manufacturers produce several models of boilers. The heating unit must be selected based on the type of fuel that ensures its uninterrupted operation.
Heat generators have the following types:
- Electrical;
- Gas;
- On solid and liquid fuel.
Electric heating is the most efficient. The efficiency is about 100%. Such systems do not require installation additional elements: chimneys, ventilation. They are easy to use and cheap to install. However, they require additional electrical power, and energy consumption can be very expensive for owners.
The most popular are gas installations. Such designs are reliable, compact and quite effective. Additionally, a chimney and ventilation are required. Heating with gas is a budget option. Equipment maintenance is carried out once a year. The boiler can be installed if available gas pipeline and installation requires special permission.
Solid fuel boilers are an alternative to gas coolant. Such units require constant monitoring, procurement of raw materials and take a long time to warm up. Due to dirt during operation, an additional room is required - a boiler room.
Advantages of solid fuel boilers:
- They work on coal and wood;
- Cheap fuel;
- Compact dimensions;
- Inexpensive installation.
Liquid fuel equipment is quite inexpensive; installation and heating will cost the owner the same as using natural gas. A distinctive disadvantage is the specific smell after visiting the boiler room. Annual boiler maintenance will require a lot of effort.
System installation: do-it-yourself boiler room in a private house
After completing the wiring diagram and purchasing the necessary equipment and materials, installation of the heating system begins.
Stages of work:
- Boiler installation. A heating unit using gas and electricity can be located in any room; equipment using liquid and solid fuel requires a utility room or boiler room.
- Next, connect the boiler gas outlet pipe to the central chimney. The joints are coated with heat-resistant clay or mastic.
- If the option of forced heat distribution is selected, install a pump.
- Next, install the radiators. The batteries are hung under the window sills on special brackets. Before you start, you need to mark the walls. All radiators must be located at the same level. The batteries are installed at a distance of 2 cm from the wall.
- The heating system is completed by installing pipes and related components. It is necessary to install the expansion barrel at the highest point. Route the pipes to the radiators and install them. It is advisable to equip each heating element with taps. In the event of a leak, it will be possible to repair the unit without draining the entire system.
After completing all installation work, perform a test run. All detected defects are eliminated.
DIY heating device (video)
Heating options depend on the location of energy resources, financial and technical capabilities. For your dacha, you can choose the option of electric or fuel heating. Home local heating requires constant use of equipment, so it is recommended to use gas boilers. For gas system The trial run is carried out under the supervision of a specialist.