Good tool for caulking a log house will allow the master to do everything in at its best. It is impossible without diligence, concentration, and ability to achieve quality when caulking a house or any other construction project.
To perform a specific task, you need to have an appropriate set of tools. Its presence will allow everything to be completed with proper quality and as quickly as possible. This also applies to caulking at home.
In construction, the term caulking is used, which refers to the process itself and the tool for its implementation. This process is the sealing of gaps and cracks that arise for various reasons when installing log houses. A special tool is also called a caulk. This could be a wooden tool or a metal spatula.
A caulk is a handle with a blade. Additional tools are also required for caulking.
Selection and use of caulk
To work, you also need a flat caulk. The very name of the instrument speaks for itself. It is used to install insulation using the kit method. This means that the material is twisted into a single thread using a series of loops. The loops are pushed with a tool into the cracks and gaps between logs or beams. Well-known requirements for a blade:
- It is better to use a tool that has a basic working part made of metal. Iron should not bend easily. In this regard, high-quality steel is preferable.
- The handle of the tool should fit well in the hand and be comfortable. Handles made of corrugated rubber or rubber handles have proven themselves to be the best.
- You need to hit the end of the handle with a mallet. The end should be a knob with a cap.
It is better to use a caulk with a blade measuring 100 mm and a thickness of 5 mm.
In addition, other tools are used for caulking a log house. They are presented in a wide range, which allows you to choose a copy that is convenient to use.
Correct caulk
Features of a wooden instrument
This tool is something like a wooden spatula. It can be made on our own. It may seem that there cannot be any special difficulties. You just need to plan a wooden blade and start insulating it. Slowly tap the instrument wooden mallet, sealing the tow seam.
Some craftsmen even try to use an axe. They just try to stick the tow inside the seam.
Insulation is not an easy process. In the old days old times blades were used to perform it self-made of different widths and sharpness. But this was not entrusted to everyone, but only to a recognized craftsman.
A caulk is a tool that must have the following necessary qualities. It must be made from hardwood. If the material was unsuitable, it lost its qualities after just a couple of meters of sealed seam. The blade could become covered with burrs and become completely unusable.
If the hammer for hammering is made of metal, then the caulk must also have a metal handle.
The purpose of the application is to fill the seam as tightly as possible with insulation. When using low-quality logs in the construction of a log house, it will be necessary to seal fairly wide seams. This circumstance will allow extra effort complete them. When finishing a log house with thin logs, you will need to use a metal device.
Using a caulking chisel
A caulking chisel is metal version of this instrument. Today you can buy it in a store without any problems. Branded products are offered by the best manufacturers.
Chisel good quality It is also quite possible to adapt under certain conditions. It should not be particularly thick and have a blade less than 5 mm thick. A regular chisel is too narrow. They will have to carry out insulation for an unreasonably long time. The process will be speeded up by a 100 mm spatula. It is this device that needs to do the job. This tool is called a caulking tool.
Chisels are used to perform specific operations. They have different lengths and blade thicknesses. It is necessary when sealing seams and grooves of different sizes.
Using caulk with a hammer drill
A caulk with a hammer drill will significantly speed up the work process. In this case, the quality will be worse, since there is a high risk of damage to the logs of the log house. The load becomes uncontrollable. This is due to its shock nature. Manual execution requires the master to make only 1 blow per width of the device’s blade.
The insulation is placed at a given depth. Using a hammer drill involves frequent impacts that the worker cannot accurately assess. The insulation is laid unevenly, the seams are insulated poorly.
A significant positive aspect of using a hammer drill is the speed of the operation. Professional caulkers they prefer not to use a hammer drill because they value their own reputation.
Mallet for performing insulation
A wooden hammer or mallet when performing insulation work timber house simply necessary. U good master with work experience and significant experience, they usually have their own large set of mallets of various modifications. It is preferable to use a mallet of the same type of wood as the log house that needs to be caulked. This is not always essential, but it is desirable. Mallet has other names. Some masters call it a mushel, a beater.
A curved caulk will be very useful in this work. There is a log house a large number of rounded areas, ends of logs. This type of caulk has a narrower blade than a flat caulk, its size is 50 mm with the same thickness of the blades of both modifications of the tool.
A road worker is also used. This tool has a fork-shaped appearance. It is necessary for the formation of rollers most in a convenient way. A road builder is used when caulking a log house using the stretch method. It should have a width of 170 mm. The recess in the road construction must be selected in accordance with the dimensions of the grooves. An experienced master always has at least 3 tools of this type with him. They are used for seams of different sizes.
It is equally important to have a breaking caulk on hand when caulking a log house. It is necessary to widen an excessively narrow groove. The breaking caulk has a wedge-shaped blade, which makes it possible to expand the space. It will have to be filled with material using another device.
Execution of work
Caulking of log houses or beams is a labor-intensive task that is performed entirely by hand. There are no devices that mechanize such work. This process is long and quite difficult; the master performs it only with his own hands.
Caulkers are a special specialty in wood construction. The caulking team consists of several physically resilient and strong men who perform caulking exclusively.
Since these masters are not involved in other types of work, they reach the pinnacle of mastery in their specialization and have the highest qualifications. If possible, you should definitely use the services of such a team, since everything is done quickly and with the highest quality.
It is quite clear that a team of caulkers has at its disposal all necessary set tools to perform caulking of a log house of any complexity:
- in the presence of any material for sealing the seams of the log house;
- different sizes of seams;
- different types of wood for wooden buildings;
- the need to seal seams in complex elements.
Every stage of work is important. It is impossible to neglect caulking, on which the warmth and comfort of living in the house depends. It is impossible to do without it in wooden construction.
Caulking of a log house is the filling of cracks between the logs of the crowns and in the notches of the corners during the construction of the building and after its complete shrinkage. Proper implementation of such work allows you to avoid deformation of the walls of the house, insulate it and protect the living space from external negative influences(wind, precipitation, low temperatures etc.).
Caulking at home can be done using various materials and working tools. However, such work should only be carried out by experienced professionals. Qualified craftsmen will be able not only to caulk a log house at a price that is most affordable for everyone, but also to ensure the maximum quality of this work.
When is a log house caulked?
Caulking timber is a mandatory process before any finishing works. The work is carried out in two stages. First, filling the grooves between the logs must be done directly when assembling the walls. Next, the caulking of the house must be done after the log house has completely shrunk. As a rule, it takes one to two years for walls to completely shrink. The price of log caulking depends on:
- height of walls and area of the house;
- material used to seal cracks between the frame;
- the quality of the wood from which the walls are built.
If you want to caulk a log house, the price of which is quite affordable by the standards of the modern construction market, it is best to trust real professionals who can perform work of any complexity on highest level.
Materials for caulking a log house
Caulking of a log house, the price of which is determined by the craftsmen directly after inspecting the scope of work, must be carried out from the outside and inside walls This approach to work will ensure maximum moisture and wind protection of residential premises. Can be used for caulking timber various materials. Thus, the most in demand are tape and inter-crown linen and jute seals. With its use, you can easily caulk houses of any size.
Caulking, the price of which also depends on the quality of the sealant and the ease of working with it, can significantly increase the service life of the building and the quality of life in it. If you want to caulk your house, it is best to turn to professionals. Experienced craftsmen will be able to perform rather monotonous and labor-intensive work with the highest quality. The price of caulk in this case will become your investment in durability wooden house.
There is almost no reduction in the number of people wanting to build own house made of wood. Moreover, wooden buildings have a lot of advantages in comparison with frame, concrete and brick buildings.
But often many people forget that wooden frame, whether it is built from logs, rounded logs or timber, has such significant drawback or rather a feature like shrinkage and high deformability wooden elements. For this reason, the construction of a wooden house always takes quite a long time - first you need to wait for the frame to shrink, and only then can you begin finishing work.
But it leads not only to change geometric dimensions logs, but also to the appearance of cracks and leaks, which subsequently need to be sealed. Without this, the house will be cold, damp and uncomfortable. To eliminate any defects that have arisen, the walls are caulked.
What is caulking
The process of caulking consists of eliminating gaps between the elements of a log house with thermal insulation material, which is designed to prevent cold air flows from penetrating into the house.
This one would seem simple work requires patience, accuracy and quite a lot of time from the performer. Caulking technology has remained virtually unchanged over the past centuries, so many developers prefer not to do caulking themselves, but use the labor of professionals.
The caulking process has several purposes:
- correction of defects made during the assembly of the log house;
- by eliminating cold bridges;
- elimination of gaps that inevitably arise in the crowns, corners of the house, between windows and the frame;
- giving the house a finished look.
You should not think that it is enough to caulk the house once and all problems will be solved.
Only at the first stage - during the construction of a house - caulking is carried out twice:
- after the initial shrinkage of the log house (about six months after its assembly);
- before starting finishing work.
In ancient times, the main materials for insulating a log house were moss and wool. They are still used today, but other materials have appeared on the market, varying in price and raw materials. Therefore, anyone, even those limited in funds, will be able to find suitable material to insulate your home.
In order to choose the right material for caulking, you need to know the properties that it should have (or at least most of them).
These are properties such as:
All materials used to insulate a log house are divided into two groups: natural and synthetic.
- tow;
- hemp;
- felt;
- flax wool;
- jute.
- mineral wool;
- foamed polyethylene;
- foam;
- sealants.
Of the artificial insulation materials, only sealants deserve attention.
Other insulation materials should not be used, as this will lead to undesirable consequences:
- good insulation, but it is afraid of moisture and can lead to the development allergic reactions in some people;
- foamed polyethylene is a closed-cell material that retains heat well, but does not breathe, which can lead to rotting of the log crowns;
- foam rubber and other materials with open pores are not able to protect the seam from freezing, since air and water get into the pores (in addition, foam rubber sags under the weight of logs and decomposes in the light).
Seams can also be sealed using sealants. This process is much simpler and faster than traditional caulk. Some sealants (for example, Neomid) have good adhesion to wood and high elasticity. Sealants are applied using construction pistol. The seams obtained in this way are not afraid of moisture, do not decompose under the influence of UV rays, do not turn yellow or mold.
But, no matter how good modern sealants are, most owners prefer to caulk their homes using natural materials.
Moss- This is the oldest and to this day quite effective insulation for log houses.
It has such necessary properties as:
- excellent hygroscopicity (capable of absorbing moisture in a volume 20 times its own);
- the presence of lignin in the structure of the fibers, which resists deterioration of both the moss itself and the logs;
- bactericidal properties - moss is able to destroy microorganisms.
Before caulking, dry moss is moistened in a solution prepared from 200 g of soap and 500 g of oil, dissolved in a bucket of water. Of all the types of moss, only two types are used as caulk: forest moss (cuckoo flax) and red swamp moss.
The moss is not laid after the frame is assembled, but during it. To do this, the moistened material is distributed in a layer of at least 10 cm along the crowns with the stems across. The ends of the stems, 10–15 cm long, are released outside for subsequent caulking. The disadvantage of this method is the high labor intensity of preparing the moss (it must be cleared of soil residues and dried) and the rather complex process of caulking.
Tow It can be used, but it is not advisable.
There are several reasons:
- it is difficult to twist tow so that it does not fall apart;
- it absorbs water vapor well, so it is almost always wet and deteriorates;
- in the heat, the material crumbles into dust;
- Birds love tow and use it to build nests.
Thus, the log house will have to be caulked too often. The tow is first treated with a formaldehyde solution and then dried. This protects it from pests. Working with tow is not very convenient, because it is too hard and it is very difficult to achieve a dense filling of the seam.
Hemp– made from hemp stem fibers, which are highly durable and resistant to various influences.
– non-woven material made from felted wool. For caulking, it is cut into strips. Needs pre-treatment protective compounds, because it is easily damaged by moths and other pests. Currently, you can purchase impregnated felt that has already been treated with bitumen or resin.
Linen– it is advisable to use dry wood or wood to insulate the house. The material does not have a high density and is afraid of prolonged exposure to moisture, which can cause rotting processes in it. The shade of flax caulk is usually gray.
Lnovatin– made from flax and jute, which together form good insulation. The material is resistant to external influences, has good density and the ability to restore its size. After the wood dries, leading to the formation of cracks, the material reliably fills all the resulting voids.
Jute- its properties resemble moss, but it is much easier to work with. The material has sufficient density to keep the cold out and keep the heat out of the house. Jute is a breathable, hygroscopic material. Besides all these positive properties jute has a beautiful golden hue, which greatly decorates the house.
Insulation technology for log walls
From ancient times to this day for insulation wooden walls two main technologies are used.
Stretching - used mainly for caulking narrow cracks:
- a strand is formed from the selected insulation, placed in the slot and pushed through with a spatula, leaving an edge of the material about 5 cm long outside;
- then a thin roll is rolled out of the insulation, which is wrapped into the left free edge of the insulation and carefully, using a chisel, hammered into the groove.
Included in the set - used for caulking large grooves and cracks between logs:
- the sealant is twisted into long strands up to 15 mm thick and wound into balls;
- then it is carefully unwound, while simultaneously hammering the material into the cracks using a caulking chisel;
- if there are gaps different sizes, then for larger ones the required thickness of the insulation is gained by twisting it into loops.
- caulks (they are different: type-setting, curved, broken);
- wooden mallet or rubber hammer with a wide striker.
Caulking tools have a steel blade that must be soft and smooth, otherwise it may damage the seal.
Work order:
- The caulking process itself begins from the bottom, from the very bottom crown and continues upward. It must be taken into account that caulking the seams changes the height of the log house.
- One seam must be caulked along the entire perimeter of the log house, first from the outside, then from the inside. This will avoid distortions in the walls of the house.
- Then the next highest seam is processed. And so on until the very top.
It is forbidden to caulk individual walls; this may cause the wall to deviate from the vertical.
As you can see, the process of caulking a log house is not that complicated, but it requires great care and careful execution of all operations. Then your home is on long years will be protected from atmospheric influences, and the facades of the house will take on a finished look.
To get rid of the gaps between the crowns and close the cracks formed during the shrinkage of the log house, apply caulk: this is the only way to retain heat inside the log house. You can use different materials for work, but the technology is the same. How to caulk a log house correctly? What's best to use for this?
What is the best way to caulk a log house? The work can be done using both natural and artificial materials. The latter are much more convenient to use, and the process takes very little time, but they have several significant disadvantages.
Natural
These include moss, tow, jute, flax wool, hemp and others.
Moss
Caulking a log house with moss has been done for a long time, and even with the advent of modern materials they did not refuse him. This explains his unique properties: it not only retains heat well, tolerates sudden temperature changes, and removes excess moisture, without rotting, but also has antimicrobial and even medicinal properties.
Tow
The technology using tow is considered one of the most complex. As the log house dries out, the material will become damp, which is why it will begin to rot over time. Therefore, after drying out the house or bathhouse, the old tow is cleaned out, and then the log house is caulked again.
Jute
Moisture-resistant, environmentally friendly and durable material that retains heat well. Due to its ability to absorb moisture, it has a fairly short service life (about 3 years). Jute that has become unusable is not easy to remove from the cracks between the crowns, so it is rarely used.
There are several types of material:
- Jute tow. When producing this type of insulation, the fibers are combed to give them the desired direction. The tow obtained in this way retains all the properties of jute, however ready material not very convenient for work: rigid, and at the same time not too dense. The process of caulking when using the material becomes more complicated - the work has to be carried out in several stages (during the initial laying, the required degree of density cannot be achieved).
- Flax-jute. A mixed material consisting of equal amounts of flax and jute fibers. It is popular among builders, but needs protection from insects: before use it is treated with anti-moth and anti-rot agents.
- Jute felt. The material, 90% jute and the remaining 10% flax fiber, has the density necessary for work, but at the same time remains flexible. The ease of use of felt makes it optimal choice. When purchasing a material, you should choose one whose fibers are longer than 2 cm - it is more elastic and flexible. The only drawback is that it can be damaged by moths, so before laying the felt, it is treated with a special protective impregnation.
Lnovatin
Insect repellent material is processed chemicals, therefore it cannot be called environmentally friendly. The service life of the insulation is up to 3 years; it is attached to the frame using a construction stapler.
Synthetic
The use of ready-made compounds - sealants - will cost significantly more than if you caulk a log house with tow. However, they are much easier to work with. Usually, in order to reduce the consumption of a synthetic product, it is used together with a natural one (for example, a cord). First, the cord is sealed into the gap, and sealant is applied on top, leveling the layer with a scalpel spatula.
Among the disadvantages of sealants:
- A number of synthetic products are destroyed by exposure sun rays– over time it begins to crumble and falls out. To protect the substance from damage, strips are installed on the seams, which protect the sealant from ultraviolet radiation.
- Some compositions, after drying, harden into a dense solid mass, due to which the wood, which contracts and expands depending on humidity and air temperature, begins to collapse. It is recommended to use only flexible sealants.
Methods for caulking the walls of a house or bathhouse
Caulking and insulation of a log house can be done using two methods:
- Into the set. Suitable for wide cracks. For work, use jute, tow or hemp. The selected material is divided into strands and wound into a ball.
- Stretch. Wherein thermal insulation material divided into strips and hammered into the cracks.
General rules
The initial caulking of a timber house is carried out approximately 6 months after assembly. During this period, most of the moisture contained in the timber will disappear, cracks will appear on the wood, and cracks will appear in the structure itself.
The next time the work will need to be carried out another year. By this point, the structure will have completely settled, and it will be necessary to eliminate the cracks and crevices that have arisen over the past months.
If everything is done correctly, the third time will be needed only after 5 years. However, if technology is not followed, the need to eliminate cracks may arise annually. To ensure that the caulking of a timber house is done correctly, it is worth watching a video with advice from experienced craftsmen.
- Work starts from the bottom. Consistently caulk lower crown along the entire perimeter from the outside, then inside the log house. After that, they move on to the next one, acting in the same way.
- Typically, the largest cracks form at the corners, so caulk in these places should be especially careful.
- First, the material is fixed in the crack over an area of about 1 m, then the hanging parts are folded in and tucked inside. Using a mallet, the insulation is firmly hammered into the gap until the material begins to spring back. When everything is done, move on to the next section.
Caulk with moss
To work you will need:
- pre-dried moss;
- water;
- soap;
- vegetable oil.
Work order:
- Add 200 g of soap and 0.5 liters of oil to a bucket of water. Mix thoroughly.
- Place dry moss in the prepared liquid. Wet fibers will become elastic.
- Take a strand of material, twist it into a roller, and insert it into the slot. They compact well.
- Using a spatula and mallet, firmly hammer the insulation into the gap.
For the initial caulking of a log house using moss, it is recommended to use the “stretch” method, all subsequent ones – the “set” method.
Using tow
Over time, insects may infest this type of insulation, and in order to protect it, the tow should be treated with a disinfectant.
You need to prepare:
- tow;
- formalin (it will act as an antiseptic);
- water.
Caulking a house made of profiled timber using tow takes place in 4 stages:
- Formalin is diluted with water to obtain a disinfectant solution.
- All the prepared tow is placed in it and left for half an hour.
- Having taken out and squeezed out the material, they drive in the tow, divided into strips, using the “stretch” method. The insulation is compacted using a spatula and a mallet to achieve maximum packing density.
Caulk with jute
This material is laid using the “set” method.
Depending on what type of material is chosen, you will need:
- the jute itself;
- bitumen or resin (for felt jute);
- formalin (for jute tow).
Work order:
- The tow is soaked in a formaldehyde solution.
- The material is rolled into strands and filled into the cracks of the lower crown.
- Using a tool, push in the hanging edges.
- Using a groove, level the position of the insulation layer.
Important! When processing the area around the chimney pipe, you need to leave about 3 cm of the surface untouched.
Caulking with sealant
Caulk timber house using sealant is the fastest way. To work, you will need the synthetic material itself, a cord for filling the cracks, a special spatula for smoothing the seams (you can use a narrow spatula), and a mounting gun.
Caulking a log house is a painstaking process that requires patience and great effort. Everything matters here: the tool, the quality of the material, the sequence of work. Without the appropriate experience, not everyone can properly caulk a log house, so first you need to familiarize yourself with the technology, study caulking methods, and choose the right inter-crown insulation.
Caulking of a log house is carried out in two stages - immediately after construction and after some time, when shrinkage occurs. Primary (or rough) caulking can be carried out in two ways: with laying insulation during the process of assembling the walls or performing one-time work upon completion of construction.
1 way
Lay the bottom row of logs on the base.
Then the insulation is spread on top so that the ends of the material hang evenly on both sides. Next, lay the second crown, and again a layer of insulation. This is repeated until the very top of the log house. After all work on the construction of the log house is completed and the roof is installed, the protruding ends of the seal are driven into the gaps between the beams using caulking.
Method 2
Caulking begins after installation roofing system to the log house Insulation (preferably tape) is applied to the seam of the bottom row and, using a tool, is pushed into the gaps between the logs along the entire length, leaving hanging edges 5-7 cm wide. Then these edges are folded in, formed into a roller and hammered inside the seam. Repeat the procedure in the next row and so on until the top of the structure.
The second stage of caulking is carried out after shrinkage of the log house - after 1-2 years. The selected insulation is applied to the cracks between the crowns and driven tightly inside. You should always start work from the bottom row, and be sure to do it along the perimeter of the log house.
You cannot caulk one wall first, then the second, and so on. In addition, each row is caulked both from the outside and from the inside to avoid distortions in the structure. The insulation raises the frame by 5-10 cm, and its uneven distribution contributes to the vertical deviation of the walls. In some cases, the log house is caulked for the third time - 5-6 years after construction. During this time, the wood completely shrinks and new gaps form.
There are two ways of caulking - “set” and “stretched”. The first is used to eliminate wide gaps between logs, the second is usually used during primary caulking, when the gaps are still narrow.
To work, you need tools - a set of caulking tools, a road worker and a mallet. As a rule, metal caulks are used, although many craftsmen make them themselves from hardwood.
| Name | Description | What is it used for? |
|---|---|---|
| Flat metal or wooden spatula. Blade width 100 mm, thickness 5-6 mm | The main tool for filling gaps between crowns | |
| Flat chisel with a blade width of 50-60 mm and a thickness of up to 5 mm | Used to seal seams in corners and rounded areas of a log house |
| The caulk is triangular in shape with a longitudinal groove along the blade. Width - 170 mm, thickness 8-15 mm | Tool for forming even rollers from twisted strands of compaction | |
| Thick and narrow wedge up to 35 mm wide | Widens narrow gaps, making it easier to fill with insulation | |
| Wooden hammer | Used for filling the seal with wooden caulks |
The caulking blades should not be sharp, otherwise when driving the material they will cut it. Pay special attention to the surface of the blades: if it is rough, the insulation fibers will cling and be pulled back out of the seams.
Caulking materials
As interventional insulation The following materials are used:
- red and white moss;
- tow;
- felt;
- jute;
- flax wool
| Type of material | Description |
|---|---|
| Environmentally friendly material with antiseptic properties. If you independently procure raw materials, the costs of insulating the log house will be minimal. It is usually collected late autumn when there are no snails in it and fewer insects. Immediately after collection, the moss is sorted, lumps of earth and debris are removed, and slightly dried. There is no need to dry it too much, otherwise the stems will become too brittle and unusable. Purchased moss must be soaked before caulking to make installation easier. Pros: durability, low thermal conductivity, resistance to temperature changes, environmental friendliness, antimicrobial properties, low cost. Cons: difficult to find on the market, requires protection from birds, requires pre-treatment before installation |
|
| Tow is suitable for the initial caulking of a log house and for sealing the crowns after shrinkage. It is made from flax fibers, and depending on their quality, it is divided into bale and roll (tape). Rolled fiber consists of shorter and stiffer fibers, which makes it difficult to stuff between the crowns. Tape tow is better in quality, softer and more convenient for caulking. Pros: has low thermal conductivity, does not electrify, is highly absorbent and dries quickly, has bactericidal properties. Disadvantages: labor-intensive installation, unaesthetic appearance of seams after caulking. |
|
| Until recently, natural felt was widely used in the insulation of log houses. Now its composition is supplemented with synthetic and plant fibers, which significantly improve its individual properties. And yet, felt insulation without additives has a number of advantages: it has high vapor permeability, does not allow odors to pass through, provides good noise insulation, has low thermal conductivity, is easy to use, and is environmentally friendly. Cons: susceptible to rotting, easily damaged by moths |
|
| Traditional insulation materials are increasingly being replaced by materials such as jute. It is available in the form of fibers, ropes of any thickness, and also in the form of tape. Tape jute is soft and pliable, compacts evenly, and is used for both primary and repeated caulking. It is more convenient to use jute fibers and ropes after shrinkage of the log house. Pros: it is durable, not damaged by moths and other insects, does not rot, and provides a favorable microclimate in the building. Cons: the material cakes quickly, short service life. |
Prices for tow
Primary caulking “stretched”
The whole process is divided into two stages - laying insulation between the logs during the construction of a log house and the caulking itself. The insulation is laid after installation of each crown. If moss is used, it should be slightly damp.
Take a large bunch of moss and lay it in fibers across the log so that the ends of the fibers hang down on both sides by 5-7 cm. The next bunch lies close together.
The fibers must be evenly distributed over the surface, forming a layer of equal thickness. The wood should not show through the moss, so make the insulation layer thicker. It is better to put too much than not to add, because a thin layer will not be able to effectively protect the seams from blowing.
If used tape insulation, installation is much simpler and faster: the tape is rolled out along the crown and secured with staples of a construction stapler. When the tape runs out, the new piece is overlapped by 5 cm so that there are no gaps at the joints. After the entire row around the perimeter is covered with insulation, the second crown is installed.
So, the log house has been erected, the roof has been installed, and the walls can be caulked.
The procedure for caulking and sealing cracks after shrinkage of a log house
It is more convenient if the insulation is tape, then forming a roller out of it is much faster. When twisting the material, it must be slightly stretched along the seam, which promotes greater compaction and uniform distribution of the insulation. Sometimes the thickness of the roller is not sufficient to fill the gap, then they take additional strands and wrap them in the hanging ends of the material. After this, the thickened roller is driven into the gap.
If during the construction process insulation was not laid between the logs, caulking is performed in the manner described above, only more material will be needed. It is necessary to apply it to the seams with the fibers across. The longitudinal arrangement of the fibers will not provide the required density; the material will not be able to be firmly fixed and will constantly crawl out of the grooves. When choosing a tape compactor, make sure that the width of the tape is several centimeters greater than the thickness of the log. Edges that are too short are difficult to tuck, and therefore the quality of caulking will be poor.
- The edge of the tape is laid on the ground near the corner of the log house and retreated along the wall, unwinding the roll. The material cannot be pulled, it should simply lie in an even strip on the ground. It is very important that the tape does not twist during the unwinding process. Having reached the second corner, the roll is also left lying, nothing is cut off yet.
- Return to the beginning of the tape, take it by the edge and apply it over the seam. Using a caulking blade, press the tape in the middle, leaving the edges to protrude by 5-7 cm. In this way, the entire inter-crown seam is passed.
Insert insulation into the seam
- Measure out another 25-30 cm of tape and only then cut it off the roll. This reserve will allow you to hammer the grooves more tightly without adding insulation.
- Now, little by little, straightening and tucking the edges of the material, they begin to caulk the seam. The tape should completely disappear into the gap between the logs along with the reserve.
- As a rule, one layer of tape is not enough for high-quality filling, so everything will have to be repeated two or even three more times.
- The finished seam should protrude from the grooves no more than 3-4 mm and be of uniform thickness.
Prices for caulk
caulk
If the gaps between the crowns are very wide, caulking is used “in a set”. For these purposes, tow, hemp ropes or jute cords are used. Long strands are formed from tow and wound into a ball. Finished cords or ropes are also wound into balls for convenience.
Start from the edge of the lower crown:
- clear the gap, removing loose chips and debris;
- unwind a small amount of cord, fold it into loops and push it into the gap with caulk;
- seal the loops first in the upper part of the gap, then in the lower part;
- put another strand on top, now without loops, and level it with a road maker.
Further along the seam, the strands are laid in one layer until the next gap. The more densely the voids are clogged, the better insulation. Try not to leave hanging fibers: firstly, they spoil appearance walls, and secondly, the seal can be pulled away by birds. Having finished caulking the first row, they move on to the second, and everyone repeats in exactly the same way.
To make the log house decorative, you can hammer a jute cord along the entire length of the seams.
Caulking corners
The corners are caulked separately after the work on the walls is completed. It is also more convenient to use tape insulation here.
Since the seams between the logs at the corners have a semicircular shape, you will need a curved caulk.
Step 1. The tape is positioned vertically. Take it by the edge, apply it to the corner seam and press it inward with caulk. They step back a little and drive the material into the gap again.
Step 2. As soon as the insulation has been secured a little, they begin to tuck the protruding edges and drive them deeper into the cracks.
Step 3. After filling and leveling the top seam, move on to the second. The material must be constantly straightened and stretched a little so that it lies more evenly.
This is how the entire corner is sequentially compacted. The seams should not protrude more than 5 mm, otherwise the appearance will be sloppy.
Video - How to caulk a corner of a log house
Caulking a log house with sealants
Caulking of log houses with special sealants, which are easy to apply, give the seams a very aesthetic appearance and reliably protect against blowing, is gaining popularity. If the log house is made of rounded logs or laminated veneer lumber, and jute is laid as insulation between the crowns, you can only use sealant and a rope made of foamed polyethylene. Sealing of seams is carried out no earlier than shrinkage of the log house occurs.
Step 1. The joints between the logs are cleaned of dust and clogged debris and wiped dry with a rag.
Step 2. A primer primer is applied along the perimeter of the seams using a brush or sprayer. If work is carried out in winter, the primer should be rubber-based, summer time- on the water.
Step 3. After the primer has dried, a rope of foamed polyethylene is inserted into the seams, the diameter of which is selected according to the width of the gap.
Step 4. Apply sealant. They use the composition in tubes, which is applied using mounting gun, in buckets and in the form of a tape. Last option very easy to use: remove the tape from one side protective film, apply to the seam, press with your hand and roll with a roller.
Step 5. After sealing all inter-crown joints, remove the outer layer of film so that the sealant hardens. Finally, the joints are coated with colorless varnish or a tinting compound is applied, depending on the color of the sealant.
When applying the composition with a spatula or from a tube, the sealant should be smoothed and excess should be removed with a damp cloth.
If the logs for the log house were harvested by hand, more uneven gaps will form during shrinkage. Here, one sealant and a polyethylene cord will not be enough. In such cases, caulking is performed traditional way, after which the seams are sealed with sealant. After such treatment, there is no need for subsequent caulking.
Video - How to caulk a log house