Strawberry is probably a favorite among others berry crops. It has very high taste qualities and therefore appeals to both children and adults.

Growing strawberries in a garden or personal plot is sometimes quite problematic - the berries require special care. Those who have decided to take this step should study the characteristics of this culture in advance. In this article we will talk about the timing of berry ripening. They usually depend on the variety chosen, as well as on the area in which they grow.

Ripening time for remontant varieties of strawberries

It must be said that there are two types of strawberries: single fruiting (short daylight hours - SDS) and multiple fruiting (remontant). The latter variety, for obvious reasons, is gaining popularity every year. This is quite understandable, because the harvest is an order of magnitude greater. So, let's talk about the main features of this type.

Remontant strawberries differ from ordinary ones in that they have practically no tendrils. In addition, it bears fruit and, accordingly, ripens much earlier. The main feature is repeated fruiting. It happens in waves. For example, the first harvest can be harvested in June, the second in early July, and the third, if possible, in mid-August.

As for the varieties of this variety, there are a lot of them today. Among the most popular are the following varieties: “Albion”, “Bordurello”, “Vima Rina”, “Geneva”, “Temptation”, “Queen II”, “Lubava”, “Maara Des Bois”, “Inexhaustible”, “Ostara” ", "Diva", "Referenta", "Superfection", "Tristar", "Flora", "Hummi Gento", "Charlotte", "Evie", etc.

Let’s add one more thing – large fruit. The size of one berry can reach 50-75 g.

When do ordinary strawberries ripen?

KSD strawberries produce a harvest only once a year. It differs from the remontant variety by its smaller weight of fruits (25-30 g) and the presence of more developed whiskers.

Single-fruiting strawberries are divided into four groups: early, mid-early, middle, and also. Each group certainly has its favorites.

Early varieties of strawberries

Mid-early strawberry varieties

Medium varieties of strawberries

Late varieties of strawberries

There are not so many late varieties of strawberries. Here's the main list:

How to speed up the ripening of strawberries

It is noteworthy that the ripening period of strawberries can be accelerated. There are two simple ways to do this. The essence of the first is the use of covering material. This method allows you to harvest a week earlier.

There is another way - planting this crop in a greenhouse. Both the first and second methods are equally effective. Which one to use is up to the gardener to decide. In any case, to get a good harvest, you must not forget about proper care for this culture.

Video about Florence strawberries

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Is it possible to mow all strawberry leaves?

We all love this berry. In spring, a lot of effort and time is spent on care before flowering, during it, during the formation and ripening of berries. We want more strawberries, they are larger, juicier, and tastier. So, just after the harvest, you need to make every effort to improve and increase it next year. Strawberries need special care after harvesting. This is the most important time for her and for us.​

​The first nitrogen fertilizing (preferably from organic matter) is spring feeding the mother plants themselves, in early May. You should not overdo it, so as not to disrupt fruiting, but it must take place, since it will not only ensure an increase in yield, but will also “charge” the emerging mustache germs in the right way.​

​This is a whole science! Firstly, you must mark the most “berry-bearing” bushes; this must be done at the time of fruiting. For this purpose, I have a bunch of steel knitting needles with one bent end; I stick them next to the most productive bushes (in general, I evaluate the size of the berries, the number of berries and flower stalks on the bush). The fact is that strawberries have a clear pattern: the most berry plants produce fewer mustaches, but the more “wild” individuals are strong in greenery - foliage and mustaches.​

​Pavel Trannoy is a soil scientist-ecologist, a gardener with more than 25 years of experience, known as the author of amazing books on how to cultivate your garden and vegetable garden, so that the work does not seem like hard labor, and the results are always pleasing. How to get in your garden yields large, juicy strawberries? Those who believe that the strawberry harvest depends on the weather are mistaken. Experienced gardeners know: it depends on what kind of mustache you planted, when you planted it, where and how.​

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Little secrets of high strawberry yields

A little history

For strawberries to bear fruit, do not forget to water them after the snow melts and the soil dries out. You need to do this a couple of times a week. The bushes should receive enough light, acidic soil unacceptable. Fertilize the berries in the first ten days of May. For these purposes, a liquid make-up of water, humus and ammonium sulfate is suitable.​

​For strawberries grown in greenhouse conditions, the length of daylight hours and light intensity are very important. The thing is that it needs short daylight hours to set fruit buds, which is why it is recommended to plant strawberries in the fall. And already during flowering, the length of the day should be 15-18 hours.

​Planting strawberries in a greenhouse is usually done more densely than in open ground.​

​To get a good strawberry harvest in the spring, you need to start preparing planting material in the summer. You should start selecting mother material for planting even when the first strawberries begin to ripen. In most regions this is the end of May - beginning of June.​

Of course, during the strawberry season it is not a problem to buy strawberries in a store or at a market. But is it possible to be sure that healing properties purchased berries correspond to its marketable appearance? Gross violation of agricultural cultivation techniques, the use of chemical fertilizers and growth stimulants, and if we talk about the products of greenhouse plants, then the complete replacement of sunlight with artificial light does its dirty deed, turning a healing berry into a poisonous one.​

Benefits of growing strawberries in a greenhouse

From the beginning of strawberry blossoming, pollination of flowers, to the period of its ripening, usually four to five weeks pass. Everything will depend on the variety and weather. The warmer it is, the less time it will take for the berries to ripen. It is during this period that it is necessary to take measures aimed at preserving the fruits.

​The term “leaf mowing” refers to a whole series of activities on the first-year strawberry bed that has produced fruit. Some gardeners take the word “mowing” so literally that they go out into the garden with a scythe and even a lawn mower, not in July, but in August, and ignore all other techniques. The results of such leaf mowing are always disastrous.​

Why trim your mustache?

​Next, it is advisable to direct the growing mustache into the aisles. The strongest rosettes are those that crawl into the aisles, you have seen this more than once. They are the juiciest and healthiest, because the soil between the rows is fresh, but inside the plot it is poisoned by root exudates. For the same reason, tendrils from old strawberry plantings tend to be weak. The younger the plantation, the less its soil is poisoned by its own root secretions, the larger the mustache. The strongest mustache is produced by strawberries in the first year of fruiting. And the fact that mustaches supposedly interfere with fruiting is an overly strict rule. There are practically no losses for fruiting; on the contrary, sometimes, as this year, bushes burdened with a harvest do not have enough leaf surface to create sugars and total biomass, and this is precisely what the garlands of mustaches create. Taking into account the fact that we need to arrange the sockets not later than July, I allow the bushes to bear fruit and lay runners at the same time.​

Selection of varieties and preparation of planting material

​Therefore, if you simply select large mustaches from the plot, then over time your berries will be sparse, but the tops will be a feast for the eyes.​

​When to plant​

​Remove damaged or weak plants from garden beds. Do not forget about regular weeding so that weeds are not pulled from the bushes healthy juices. In August-September, apply potassium and phosphorus fertilizers to prepare fertile soil for the next harvest.​

​The planting scheme, according to agronomist scientists, should be 25x30 cm, but in practice they often use even denser planting of strawberries - 20-25 cm. This scheme allows you to place the maximum number of seedlings, and this guarantees a good harvest.​

​Before the first berries begin to ripen, you need to clear the bed of weeds and loosen the rows. If this work is done while the strawberries are ripening, the berries may get dirty. Weeds not only take nutrients from the soil, but also impair the ventilation of the planting. They retain moisture for a long time, and this contributes to the damage to the berries by gray rot. In addition, insects - pests - love to live in weeds. Dandelion can cause strawberry disease (mycoplasma disease), when its petals turn green, leading to complete crop failure.​

Preparing the soil and planting seedlings

​In fact, this most important stage in caring for strawberries includes not only removing leaves, but also loosening, treating against pests and diseases, removing tendrils, replanting fallen plants and preparing seedlings for a new bed.​

​Surely, you already noticed during the harvest that strawberries (strawberries) produce a lot of mustache. Of course, this depends on the variety. Some varieties produce many whiskers, some few, and some may have no whiskers at all. Once you have collected all the berries, carefully inspect the entire plantation. It is necessary to loosen the beds of garden strawberries, weed them from weeds, and remove the mustaches. Strawberries require whiskers for reproduction. If you do not want to get new rosettes or new plants for propagation, then you need to cut them off immediately after they appear. Usually there are several tendrils on one bush, we collect them in one bunch and cut them as close to the base of the bush as possible. By the way, this mustache trimming procedure will have to be repeated more than once during the season. If we start it up and don’t do it on time, then the plant will spend all its energy on the growth of mustaches and rosettes - the future harvest will get less, there will be fewer flower buds, which means there will be fewer berries, they will be smaller. Anything unnecessary for the future harvest must be trimmed off. In addition, this is necessary so that the strawberries do not thicken, since thickened plantings are more difficult to care for.​

​Why in July? Since we want already next year To harvest a large harvest, we must have large bushes (small bushes cannot produce numerous large flower stalks and, accordingly, berries). The bushes will grow tall only if we collect the very first rosettes from the mustache, replant them with a lump of earth and give them two warm months to grow.​

​Secondly, only large mustaches should be taken from productive bushes. The larger the bush, the larger the berries, which means the harvest is twice or three times higher. Remove all small tendrils. If the variety is so valuable that you need to preserve as many of the mustaches as possible, you should distinguish genetically small mustaches from immature small ones. You will recognize the first ones by their puny size with already formed roots and several real leaves - they will be of no use, no matter how much you conjure them. The latter usually do not yet have roots, but they can be “stretched” in a greenhouse under a film, and it is quite possible to get offspring from them.​

​The sooner you plant your mustache, the better. If the mustaches have matured, the time to replant them is at the end of July. It is possible - in August, and in September - as a last resort.​

Each type of soil requires that additives be added to enhance the strawberry crop. Thus, loamy areas require that in the fall a mixture of peat and manure be added to every square meter. If the soil is sandy, then you need to enrich it with turf soil, peat, sawdust and humus.

​The main disadvantage of growing strawberries indoors is that in small home greenhouses it is impossible to ensure natural pollination. And since if the strawberry flowers do not get dusty, then there will be no berries, artificial pollination has to be done. This is done when the strawberries bloom. This process is simple, but quite labor-intensive, requiring patience and care. To pollinate, you need to tilt the flowering plants towards each other and lightly shake them a couple of times. The main thing for a good harvest is to pollinate all flowers in this way.​

The technology of planting strawberries in a greenhouse using black agrofibre is not particularly difficult, although it is somewhat different from the usual one. Using sharp scissors, a cross-shaped cut is made in the agrofibre so that 2-3 fingers can be inserted into it. Use your fingers to make a hole of the required depth, insert the roots of a strawberry seedling into the cut, insert them into the hole and sprinkle with soil. The plants on which the berries are the first to ripen are marked with tag pegs. When strawberries bear fruit, they grow what are called tendrils, with rosettes of new plants at the end. On the bushes marked with marks we leave the strongest rosettes, no more than 5 on one bush, we remove all unnecessary mustaches with rosettes without regret. From this moment until mid-August, caring for strawberry bushes consists of constant watering and keeping the soil loose. As a result, from each marked bush by the beginning of September we get 5 young, well-developed strawberry bushes. This is a simple, albeit rather labor-intensive way to prepare planting material for planting in a greenhouse in the fall.​

​So where is the way out? The answer is obvious: you need to grow strawberries yourself, but at the same time have not only the desire to grow them, but also the necessary knowledge of their agricultural technology.​

​Seven days before ripening, when the berries have not yet turned white, but have already formed the right size, fertilize with nitrogen fertilizers. It is usually done simultaneously with the addition of potassium solution. To do this, take 10 g of fertilizer per bucket of water. This solution can be sprayed on strawberry leaves. This will enhance the intensity of coloring of the fruit, give the skin shine, strength and resistance to rotting. But in some varieties, after such feeding, the weight of berries even increases.

​Not long ago, walking through my dacha street, I saw that my friends were mowing strawberry leaves with a scythe. They have a large berry plot - several hundred square meters - and, as they believe, they cannot do without a scythe. At first I decided that this was their way of deciding to get rid of the old strawberries, saying that it was time to start a new plantation. But it turned out that everything was wrong. The owner of the dacha said that they mow down the strawberry leaves every year three to four weeks after the last harvest. But this year, some circumstances prevented them from doing it on time and they mowed in mid-August. According to them, their strawberry harvest is always good, and they get sick less often. If you have a large plantation and it is more than 3-4 years old, then you can follow the example of my friends. There is another reason for completely cutting off strawberry leaves with a scythe or pruning shears (scissors) - this is severe damage to the plantings by diseases and pests. After completely cutting off (mowing) the leaves, the plantation should be treated with some fungicide or pest control drug. Be sure to feed your strawberry - help it grow leaf mass faster. There is no need to mow young healthy strawberry plantings; this depletes the bushes and you deprive yourself of the harvest. How to care for strawberry beds after pruning or mowing I’ll repeat myself a little, but this is very important.​

Caring for planted plants

​When to feed, fertilize​

​So, at the end of June - beginning of July, our mother plantation finishes bearing fruit and mustaches grow on it at the same time; they are not yet ready. This time is especially important, because now the flower buds will be laid. Therefore, it is important throughout the fruiting period of strawberries to ensure that large weeds do not cover the young rosettes with their leaves, otherwise stimulation by the sun will stop. And immediately after harvesting, a second nitrogen fertilization is necessary. This, firstly, will help the mother bushes themselves recover and lay flower buds for the subsequent harvest, and secondly, will hasten the mustache to begin laying flower buds: they still have about 2-3 weeks to grow here. It’s funny that at such a crucial moment, some gardeners use “complete mowing of foliage.” So they want to see clean leaves! And plants, instead of creating flower buds, switch to growing “tops”. Of course, this should never be done. Another thing is to tear off the lower reddening leaves to lighten the planting. Believe me, nitrogen fertilizing will do everything that is needed, young leaves will appear very quickly. It is probably unnecessary to say that in dry weather it is advisable to water strawberries every evening, walking along the rows with a hose. In the second half of July, the mustaches can be considered ready for transplanting; at this time they have 1-2 strong rosettes, more than suitable for laying new plantation. By the way, you don’t need to assume that the remaining sockets are unusable. You'd think they wouldn't produce berries! They'll give it to you, so if you only have a few varietal plants, and you need to start a large plantation, you can take all the rosettes, including the smallest ones with root embryos - plant them along with everyone else, only under transparent caps. Mustache transplantation is performed with big lump soil to preserve roots. The distance between the bushes is about 40 cm, although you can plant more often.​

​Caring for strawberries​

​This summer, flower buds and roots are laid, which will produce a harvest next year, so take out plants with a large volume of soil so that they do not “notice” the transplant. Such mustaches will give a strong harvest next year. If you plant mustache seedlings in the spring, you will get only a few berries in the summer.

Clay soil should be loosened with sand, compost and sawdust, and peat soil with manure humus and sand. This will all affect the harvest.​

However, there is another method of artificial pollination, less expensive, although less reliable: using a portable fan. A stream of air coming from the fan is directed towards flowering plants and thus transfers the ardor to neighboring flowers.​

Since with this planting technology water is not poured into the hole, after completing the planting of the entire bed, the planted strawberries need to be watered. The laid spunbond perfectly allows moisture to pass through, so you don’t have to worry and water as usual. You can water it manually, although if possible, it is better to install a drip irrigation system, which will greatly facilitate the care of strawberries planted in the greenhouse. Besides drip irrigation will provide plants with maximum comfort during fruiting and harvesting.​

The soil for planting seedlings must be prepared in advance, in the spring. Usually made for growing strawberries raised beds. The simplest option is a box made from ordinary boards, maybe even uncut ones. At the bottom of such a box you can put the remaining spring pruning fruit trees and shredded branches. Then a ball of humus is poured into the box, leaving 18-20 cm to the top of the box for a layer of fertile soil. To enrich the soil with microelements in the spring, you can sow a pea-oat, lentil-oat or vetch-oat mixture in a box.

​To avoid the negative impact of natural factors, today an increasing number of people who want to grow a good harvest of strawberries prefer growing them in a greenhouse. This is all the more beneficial since growing strawberries in open ground will allow you to consume fresh berries for one, or at most two months, if the varieties are selected correctly. But when grown in a greenhouse, not even heated, this pleasure can be extended for 4-5 months.​

Watering is necessary during the ripening period of strawberries. But with sufficient precipitation, watering is reduced. If there is little moisture, the berries will turn out small and their quality will decrease. Then it will no longer be possible to correct it. And, as a rule, the very first fruits are large and a larger amount of the harvest depends on them. It was noticed that the remaining berries, no matter how well the beds are watered, will not be as large as the first. But do not overdo it with watering, as excess soil moisture will reduce the density of the berries and activate fungal diseases. Typically, watering is carried out immediately after ripe fruits have been collected. Unripe green berries have a higher resistance to all kinds of rot. An increase in water content in the berries will give impetus to the beginning of a new phase of ripening.​

Loosen the soil around the bushes.

Some gardeners do the wrong thing by heavily feeding strawberries before harvesting. This leads to the fact that it is severely affected by gray mold, firstly. Secondly, although the berries become large, they are watery, less sweet, and have a shorter harvest period. In early spring, before flowering, we fertilize with nitrogen fertilizers. But remember, the main application of fertilizers should be after harvesting. This is feeding with complete mineral fertilizer and organic matter. Many people apply manure to the strawberries. This, of course, is good - manure not only nourishes the plants, but also takes care of the root system of strawberries.​

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How to increase strawberry harvest? - The magic of plants

​By the way, the weather also has a strong influence: as you know, flower buds are better formed not in the heat, but in cool weather. I noticed that strawberries bear fruit very well if they are planted in one row behind, say, a row of raspberries or currants (from the north), so that the sun hits only the strawberry leaves and does not warm the soil in front of it. The overall temperature around such bushes is several degrees lower than with open planting.​ What affects the berry harvest? ​Basically it comes down to two things: watering and weeding. Without this, growing strawberries is unthinkable for me, although many argue that strawberries bear fruit best when they grow on their own in the grass...​ ​As for seeds (and seeds are usually propagated remontant strawberries, which produces few tendrils), then it is recommended to sow them at home in February-March, at the same time as tomato seedlings, and take them out to the site in May, then the bushes will produce the first berries that same summer. I abandoned this modest harvest in favor of the quality of the plants and switched to June sowing. In the summer we grow seedlings in conditions of abundance of land and full solar lighting(we sow on a regular bed under a film with shading made from a stuck piece of plywood, and as soon as the shoots appear, we remove the film and shading) - and we get a completely different planting material than at home on the windowsill. In August, young bushes can be planted in a permanent place, and the next summer - a full-fledged harvest.​ ​Seedlings are planted in late July - early August. If, due to inexperience, you decide to plant strawberries in the spring, the harvest will consist of several berries.​ ​Sticking to these simple rules, you will be able to please your family and friends with delicious and aromatic berries already in late April - early May. And remember: if you do something, it may not work, if you do nothing, then it definitely won’t work.​ Does the yield depend on the type of soil? ​http://youtu.be/NnhVSqVSfkY​ ​Strawberry seedlings are planted in a greenhouse depending on climatic conditions region. Most gardening experts believe optimal timing landing time is from mid-September to mid-October. At this point, you need to cut and bury the grown legume-cereal mixture in the ground.​ Proper planting of strawberry bushes is the key to harvest ​After all, even in simple film unheated greenhouses, strawberries early varieties can produce a harvest 1.5-2 months earlier than in open ground. And all because the greenhouse protects strawberry plants from dangerously low temperatures, and also allows you to create an optimal air-water regime and light intensity for growth and fruiting. And these are the main factors for a high strawberry harvest.​ ​Birds cause great damage to the strawberry crop. There are many various methods fight against these feathered berry eaters. You can stretch an old tape along the beds. Glistening in the wind, the ribbons produce sounds that scare away birds. If the strawberry bed is small, then it is covered with “lutrasil”; it transmits light well, and in very hot weather it will retain some of the sun’s rays and save moisture in the soil. This way, you will avoid unwanted overheating of plants, and especially fruits. In addition, the berries will be protected from gnawing pests. This method reduces the temperature of the fruit, increases humidity, but for some time increases the ripening time of strawberries. Although this gives a positive result - the weight of the berries increases, the amount of sugar in the fruit pulp increases. The Finns came up with a very interesting method. They place small pebbles painted with red paint on the strawberry beds, which imitate berries. Birds, trying to peck such “berries,” break their beaks, which discourages them from eating strawberries.​ ​Remove weeds.​ ​Hilling strawberries​ ​Yield cycles​

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HOW TO OBTAIN A HIGH YIELD OF STRAWBERRY...

Without watering there will be no good harvest of berries. In the summer, a strawberry plot dries out very quickly, you can’t water it, so be sure to dry it somewhere aside from the hay and spread it among the plants. Mulch will keep the soil moist and prevent the berries from rotting. Weeds will not destroy our favorite, after all, strawberries are a forest plant that lives along the edges of the grass, but weeds are too voracious, with them you can’t count on the maximum juiciness and size of the berries. I usually go over even clean rows with a hoe, and then hand pick out the surviving weeds. Strawberries themselves resist weeds well, suppress them, and they only need help: remove the grass that has managed to get inside the bushes. Removing old reddening leaves from strawberries is not a separate one-time event. This is a gradual rejuvenation of the bushes, which must be carried out constantly: during weeding: at the same time as the weeds, we also tear off the reddening lower leaves.​

​How to plant​ The bush should be placed in a recess along with a lump of earth on the rhizome. In this case, the heart of the berry should be exactly at the same level with the soil. Only this arrangement will allow the strawberries to take root sufficiently. The distance between bushes should be at least 15-20 centimeters.​ ​http://youtu.be/_rN1lG95jxQ​ ​Until the end of autumn, special care for the planted plants will not be required. At this time, the plant takes root and fruit buds form in it. Care at this time comes down to regular watering, and if agrofibre is not used, then to loosening the soil and removing weeds.​ ​Only those strawberry seedlings that have well-developed root system.​ ​Picking containers are of great importance for preserving the strawberry harvest. The very first and largest berries in large quantities are saturated with water, so it is best to collect them in small baskets and no more than one kilogram. Remember, the larger the fruit, the smaller the container should be. Strawberries of early varieties are especially tender. ​Treat the plantation against diseases and pests.​ The fact is that strawberries are a berry plant - a perennial. Over time, it builds up an aerial root system and begins to seem to stick out of the ground. Every year, especially after 3-4 years of growing in one place, we are forced to add mulch, soil, compost, rotted manure into the rows, thus covering the strawberry roots. Mulching and hilling helps roots to develop well.​ ​With strawberries, as with any crop that is important to you, it is useful to track crop cycles over the years. Its fruiting follows a certain pattern: there are special productive years(high energy), there are completely disastrous years (low energy), and there are years of average yield. In nature, everything is the same, so years favorable for strawberries, when strong flower buds were formed the day before, and then followed by suitable weather, all these successful climatic factors almost always coincide with the absence of pests. Nature prepares everything: if there is to be a harvest (the release of seeds), then it will happen, nothing will interfere. This is the most reliable cycle, nature lives by it for millions of years and does not lose plant species. Therefore, I made several observations for myself. For example, if in a certain year there are too many pests on a certain crop right from the spring, then there is basically no point in fighting them; anyway, there will not be a good harvest this year (this was the case with strawberries in 2007) . At such times, it is better to leave the plants alone. I then switch to other crops that will be in bloom this year (this is easy to determine in the spring by the development of seedlings), and I plant almost all the free space with them. Every year some cultures are oppressed, others flourish - this is the law.​ ​As for fertilizers, you need to be careful with them. There is a middle ground that you can learn to observe only based on experience: on the one hand, with an excess of nitrogenous nutrition (for example, when fertilizing with fresh manure), very large bushes with small berries are obtained, on the other hand, without large bushes there will be no large berries. Conclusion: it is better to add a moderate amount of rotted organic matter shortly before planting - compost or manure that has decomposed during the year. It is good to use ash as a top dressing for strawberries every year: in the spring on the foliage as simultaneous protection from beetles.​ ​The best case is when you purchased several varieties (several bushes of each variety). Why are several varieties necessary? I would start with a trial planting of 10-12 varieties: more than half of them will not be suitable for one reason or another, leaving 3-4 of my favorite varieties with different qualities, which will also ensure cross-pollination. It is very good to have an ordinary one in the garden at the same time. garden strawberries, which produces berries in June-July, and remontant, which produces first one harvest, then, after a break, a more significant second autumn harvest. It’s not just a matter of stretching out the timing of consumption of fresh berries, but of greater reliability: after all, the harvest of garden strawberries may turn out to be weak due to frosts or pests - it is in this year that the autumn harvest of remontant strawberries succeeds well. Craftsmen even advise completely switching remontant strawberries to shock autumn fruiting, removing their flower stalks in the spring so as not to waste energy. To prevent the seedlings from being damaged by pests, before planting, the strawberry roots are kept in an infusion of copper sulfate for five minutes, then washed clean water. If all recommendations are taken into account, the variety is selected correctly, care is appropriate, and big harvest If you don’t get it, pay attention to crop rotation. A strawberry bush should not grow in one place for more than three years, a remontant bush should not grow for about five years. Replant the berries in a timely manner. ​Good luck to you! Sweet berries to your table!​ ​But with the onset of the first frost, the work will increase, especially if the greenhouse is not heated (and the vast majority of them are now). At this time, you need to install arcs on the beds and additionally protect the strawberries in the greenhouse by stretching dense material over the arcs, and put a layer of straw or hay on top of it, and this layer should be large enough to protect the seedlings from freezing even in the most severe frosts. ​ It is better to discard seedlings with a weakened system so as not to waste time and precious greenhouse space. ​Almost all beginning amateur gardeners make one fatal mistake. Having decided to acquire strawberry seedlings, they purchase them according to the “neighbors gave and sold” principle. The result is a small harvest and the belief that growing strawberries is very troublesome and incredibly difficult, but in the end you still have to use purchased berries.​ Fragrant, juicy, tasty strawberries rightfully bear the title of queen of berries. Strawberries are one of nature’s most amazing creations, a real storehouse of healthy vitamins. It can protect the body from flu, strengthen the immune system and relieve insomnia. Moreover, in addition, it can have a very strong anti-inflammatory effect.​ ​Feed with mineral and organic fertilizers.​ Reasons and timing for pruning leaves ​source:http://www.vestnik-cvetovoda.ru​ ​Mustache preparation​ So, each purchased variety is represented by several bushes. They should not be planted all together, since the mustaches are never the same in terms of the quality of fruiting, plants of the same variety can be very different, and it is important for us to start propagating only the most productive mustache. Therefore, it is advisable to plant each bush separately on a sufficient space of clean soil. And give him the opportunity to shoot garlands of mustaches in all directions.​ ​In October, before the onset of frost, strawberries are insulated. Used for winter shelter different material. Use raspberry branches, a layer of mulch from reeds, peat, straw, and pine needles. Agrofibre is often used for these purposes. It is easy to use and does not attract rodents like sawdust and straw.​ ​Strawberries are the first summer berry, which gives us not only vitamins, but also pleases the eye and stimulates the appetite with juicy dumplings, fragrant jam, fragrant pastries. Therefore, gardeners who grow it always want the harvest to be large, but this does not always work out. How can you increase your strawberry harvest?​ ​And all because the yield of strawberries, especially when grown in a greenhouse, largely depends on the quality of the planting material. After all, in a greenhouse it is grown as an annual plant. Therefore, for planting mother bushes, it is best to use strawberry seedlings of varieties zoned in your area, purchased at the nursery closest to your garden bed.​ ​In an unheated film greenhouse, strawberries can produce a harvest 1.5-2 times faster than in open ground.​ ​Water regularly if there is no rain during this period.​

pruning and caring for strawberries after harvest

The formation of fruit buds in strawberries (garden strawberries) occurs in June (Krasnodar Territory) - July (middle zone) after harvest. It is at this time that the first trimming of the mustache and leaves should be timed. The fact is that a strawberry leaf lives only 60-70 days - 2-2.5 months. And after that, various spots appear on the leaves - whitish, rusty, red. These are signs of leaf aging, development of various diseases. That is, cutting off the leaves of strawberries (strawberries) is necessary in order to protect the future harvest from diseases. Trim leaves or tendrils with pruners or scissors. Tools must be sharp. Do not tear them off with your hands - this can damage the root system. Instead of increasing leaf mass, the plant will take a long time to restore its strength. The process of chlorophyll production stops 2-2.5 months after picking berries - even in healthy plants leaves may turn red. Advice: reddened leaves should be removed to prevent the remaining pests from overwintering peacefully. Treat the plantation with pest repellents. There is a danger that young leaves will not have time to grow after pruning - bare bushes may not survive the frosty winter. So, a month and a half after collecting the last berries, we inspect the strawberry plantation (garden strawberries) and remove all the leaves with spots and holes, not forgetting to remove the flower stalks. We leave only young leaves. When to do this? In the middle zone - the first half of August. I won’t tell you the exact date - it’s not that important. Most importantly, calculate the timing so that in winter your strawberries leave with young leaves already grown. How to prune strawberries if the plants are affected by diseases and pests

​When to prune strawberries or how to care for them after harvesting​​As for agricultural technology, in addition to nutritious soil, watering and the absence of weeds, the preparation of the mustaches from which you plant your strawberry plots is important. After all, while the rosettes on the antennae are gaining growth, flower buds are simultaneously laid in them for fruiting next year. If you create strong and active flower buds on the rosettes, they will allow you to get a fairly high harvest next summer.​
​By the end of summer, from each bush you will have a “family” of young mustaches. In September it can be discharged: take out the thickening tendrils and transplant them to another place (with a corresponding entry in the garden diary), maintain the required 30-40 cm between the remaining plants. Our goal is to wait for fruiting and compare the “families”, and then from the best start breeding to create large areas. Moreover, the plants will show their true capabilities the more noticeably, the greater the distance between the bushes: densely planted mustaches, even in large-fruited varieties, produce small berries.​​Scientists have proven that strawberries are very healthy fruit, because it is a storehouse not only for a huge amount of vitamin C, but also for antioxidants. Take care of your harvest so that this healthy berry is always on the table during the summer season!​
​Main role The choice of strawberry variety that will bear fruit well plays a role. Here you need to rely not on advertising, but on specific climatic conditions. The variety's drought tolerance and ability to resist fungal diseases should be taken into account. The size of strawberries does not always coincide with its taste. Berry large sizes it is convenient for transportation, but does not have a special taste. Straw is harvested depending on climatic conditions at the beginning, middle or end of March, when the threat of severe night frosts has passed. Protective material It's better to leave it for another week. And don't forget to follow temperature conditions and soil moisture in the greenhouse. It is better to cover the loosened soil after digging in organic residues with spunbond (black agrofibre). Is not required condition, but when growing strawberries, spunbond performs a number of important functions. And if you don’t use it, then you will have to look for an alternative to fulfill them. When choosing, you should not limit yourself to 1-2 varieties of strawberries, but it is better to purchase 4-5, with different ripening periods: from early to late. Firstly, this will allow you to stretch out the pleasure of picking strawberries for 1.5-2 months instead of one, and if you also plant a variety of remontant strawberries, you will additionally harvest a second harvest from it for a week or two in September. And secondly, this way you can be completely sure that you will get a good harvest of strawberries planted in the greenhouse.​
​According to legend, one day a French traveler found amazing red berries high in the Chilean Andes. He liked their taste so much that, among other curiosities, he brought home a whole bag of aromatic sweet berries and several plants. So strawberries, under the name of garden strawberries, came to the table of the French kings, who valued them almost on a par with gold. According to another legend, at the beginning of the 18th century, a Russian merchant bought several strawberry bushes, paying a chest of gold for them.​ ​It is very important that the soil in the garden bed is kept moist all the time - this is very important for the regrowth of young foliage.​​If a strawberry bush or bushes are affected by strawberry mites, or there is severe spotting on the leaves, it is necessary to remove all leaves, even young ones. Leaves with signs of disease should be trimmed as close to the base of the bush as possible, since disease spores can persist on the petioles. Try not to touch the heart of the bush when pruning - the plant will be able to recover faster. By doing this pruning, you will not harm the bush, since strawberries grow green mass very quickly. By cutting off old leaves, you will immediately see where you can loosen the ground and where you need to remove weeds. Of course, removing all the leaves from strawberries will not remove all pests and diseases. They will remain on the stumps of leaves and the ground. Simply, such a bed is easier to treat with drugs against diseases and pests. This treatment is more effective.​ ​The term “leaf mowing” refers to a whole series of activities on the first-year strawberry bed that has produced fruit.​
​To do this, the rosettes must be well stimulated, remaining in touch with the mother bush. If they grow somewhere in the middle of the bed on their own, and then in August or September the owner deigns to take care of them, then with such “agricultural technology” the planting will be weak, it will gain strength for a year. Why can’t you just plant the purchased ones in a row? mustaches, see how they bear fruit, and after that get mustaches from the best? The fact is that only young plants produce good mustache in strawberries; from them you can get several dozen mustaches from one plant over the summer. That is, in this case, you are the master of the situation and can quickly create a plantation from any plant. If you remove all the whiskers in the first years, hoping to multiply them later, you won’t get much. Therefore, allow the whiskers to crawl freely and take root. An observant gardener knows that strawberries are like plantains: they take root well in compacted soil. It is best when a strawberry plot forms a new row of tendrils around itself every year. I grow this crop in long rows among garden plants so that the strawberries have the opportunity to move to the place of, say, garlic (preferably not tomatoes or potatoes due to their common diseases). It is very important not to transplant the mustaches, but to allow a select few to take root immediately on permanent place- this is how you get the best strong plants. This way you will create new strawberry plantings on the site instead of outdated ones.​
​HOW TO GET HARVESTS OF LARGE, JUICY STRAWBERRIES IN YOUR GARDEN FROM YEAR TO YEAR?​​The correct choice of beds for planting plants also affects the yield. Plant strawberries after beets, beans, carrots, onions or garlic. If tomatoes, potatoes or eggplants previously grew in the area you have chosen, then it will be possible to plant berries in such a bed no sooner than three years have passed.​
​To be on the safe side, you can also install an electric heater in the greenhouse. Firstly, when the air warms up, the plants will begin the growing season earlier, and accordingly, they will begin to bear fruit earlier. And secondly, then you won’t be afraid of weather surprises in the form of night frosts, which often happen not only in April, but also in the first half of May. Firstly, it mulches the soil, thus protecting it from the appearance of weeds . Secondly, it helps maintain comfortable temperature soil for strawberry plants, protecting them from freezing in winter and in early spring . Thirdly, when using spunbond, strawberries will be protected from gray rot and diseases, since with this method of growing the strawberries will not come into contact with the soil. But since this pleasure is not cheap, you have to use the berries that are already growing on your site. If you care for it properly, then it will also thank you with a good harvest. And although strawberries, as befits a queen, are quite picky, nevertheless, every self-respecting summer resident, not to mention rural residents, considers it his duty to plant at least a small bed of it. But, dreaming of a good harvest, he rarely gets it: either spring frosts will damage the color, or a dry May will not allow the berries to grow large and juicy, or during ripening, heavy rains lead to the fact that most of the harvest will be lost.​ ​That’s all the simple rules . Now you know how and when to prune strawberries (garden strawberries). You are guaranteed a good harvest next year! Here's a video of pruning strawberries: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hZCH1noq0NA​ Now you can feed the “rejuvenated” bed. At this time, as I already said, fruit buds are being laid - the basis of the future harvest, so do not forget to periodically water your strawberries. And if there is no rain, keep the soil moist. Feeding and watering at this time are required. It is at this time that the strawberries will build up leaf mass, which in winter, covered with snow, will protect the root system from freezing. That is, the more foliage your bushes go into winter with, the better they will overwinter, the greater the harvest you will get. If during the harvest period you notice berries affected by gray mold, after harvesting the last berries, treat the entire plantation with some kind of fungicide - it could be Bordeaux mixture, Topaz or Horus. / There is no clear answer to the questions - why and when to prune strawberries. Gardeners have different opinions on this matter. Some are for it, some are categorically against it. Why do this if it seems to be known that the foliage feeds the root, they say, the more foliage, the stronger the bush? Yes, that's certainly correct. But... You've harvested the harvest - get ready for the next one! Sounds like a slogan for a gardener. So, caring for strawberries after harvest is preparing the plantation for next year's harvest. And pruning strawberry leaves is one of the stages of this care. What stimulates rosettes to form active flower buds? Two nitrogen fertilizing, fresh soil, plenty of sun. In a word, young bushes should feel good conditions that they will want to use.​

​Which mustache should you prefer?​

Strawberries are rightfully considered one of the most delicious and aromatic delicacies among the many garden and forest berries. But this southern heat-loving plant requires special care and knowledge of growing technology. Therefore, when planning to start a strawberry plantation, you need to familiarize yourself with all the nuances of agricultural technology in advance.

Ripening time

In the process of studying the characteristics of this culture, it is worth paying attention to the fact that in different sources strawberries may be called garden strawberries. In fact, this is its real botanical name. However, in everyday life we ​​call large garden berries strawberries, and those that grow in the forest - strawberries. It is much smaller than the garden variety, has a different taste and is especially fragrant.

The fruiting period of strawberry crops occurs in the first half of summer. Ripening times vary depending on several factors.

• Region of growth. For this heat-loving plant, climate, plenty of sun, warm and dry weather are very important. Therefore in different regions across a huge country, the ripening times for strawberries will vary.
• Variety. Strawberries are divided into two types: regular (with one fruiting period per season) and remontant (multiple fruiting).
• Growing method. There are differences in ripening time between planting in open ground, greenhouse cultivation and wild growth.

To understand the abundance of factors, it is necessary to consider each of them in more detail.

For regular varieties

Strawberry varieties classified as common variety, bear fruit once per season, are distinguished by the abundant formation of mustaches and weigh on average 25-50 g. A strawberry bush can grow and actively bear fruit in one place for 3-5 years, after which it requires replanting and updating the mother bushes.

According to the ripening period, the usual varieties are:

• early - 2-3 days of May;
• mid-early - early June;
• average – mid-June;
• late – early July.

The type of ripening must be indicated on bags of strawberry seeds. In this case, you can purchase different varieties and provide yourself with a harvest from mid-May to July inclusive.

It is more difficult to guess with seedlings, so if you plan to plant each type of berry, then you should only take tendrils or bushes from familiar gardeners.

For a renovated look

Remontant strawberries, bred by breeders, that is, capable of flowering and fruiting several times a season, quickly gained popularity among gardeners.

Its main advantages include:

• undulating ripening during the summer;
• high yield, 2-3 times higher than that of conventional varieties;
• the absence of tendrils, which makes weeding easier and does not allow bushes to block the passages between the rows.

The disadvantages of remontant strawberries include a shorter period of plant productivity - they need to be renewed every two years. This type of berry also requires more fertilizers for high-quality fruit filling.

The fruiting time of remontant strawberries covers all three summer months. The first wave begins in June, the second in July, and in the third wave the strawberries ripen in August. If the weather is favorable and there is no heavy rain, remontant varieties can bear fruit until frost.

For meadow

Wild strawberries have their own fruiting periods - they bear fruit once a season for a month. This is useful to know so as not to miss a trip to the forest for fragrant berries. Even better if country cottage area is located near strawberry meadows or a forest known for its berry fields.

Fruiting of meadow (or field) strawberries in central Russia begins in mid-June and ends in July. Wild strawberry ripens about a week later than the meadow variety due to the limited amount of sunlight available to the trees.

Wild berries bear fruit once per season, and ripening times vary depending on climatic zones.

When will the berries ripe in different regions of Russia?

As noted above, the ripening time of strawberries is influenced by the climate of the area in which they grow. On the vast territory of our country climatic zones can vary dramatically, so the strawberry crop ripens in different periods with a difference of up to a month or more. The southern regions begin to harvest strawberries at the end of May, while the northern regions wait until July for the harvest.

Let's consider three points of a conventional triangle on the map of Russia in order to better navigate the approximate ripening times of strawberries in the place where they grow.

In the Urals

Strawberries are successfully grown even in the northern regions of the country, including the Urals. However, the climatic features of the area require compliance with certain rules.

For example, for cold zones it is recommended to plant strawberries in the fall, more precisely, in late August - early September. The bushes will have time to take root in the warmed soil, take root and quietly overwinter. But planting in the spring has certain risks - sudden frosts can destroy an unrooted plant.

For the conditions of the Urals, you can choose early-ripening, cold-resistant varieties of ordinary garden strawberries. They ripen in June, and subject to sunny weather and moderate rains, you can get a high-quality harvest.

Remontant varieties are also excellent for the Urals. In this case, the berries can be collected from the end of spring, when it produces about a third of the entire seasonal harvest, until the very end of August.

In Krasnodar region

The southern regions, for obvious reasons, are the most favorable for growing strawberries. Early spring, fertile soils, and hot sun make it possible to obtain an excellent harvest on a production scale.

If the weather does not disappoint, then Krasnodar strawberries appear on store shelves in the first ten days of May. These are early ripening varieties. Towards the end of May, the mid-season ripens, followed by the middle and late ones. The fruiting period lasts until the beginning of July, if we are talking about ordinary varieties of garden strawberries. And remontant berries in a southern sunny climate can be harvested from early spring until frost.

In outskirts of Moscow

The central zone of Russia is famous for its unstable summer and frequent rains in its first half. In this regard, the ripening time of strawberries lags behind the usual ones by several weeks. The harvest ripens by mid-June, and if the weather is cool and cloudy, then closer to the end of the month. In the Moscow region, strawberry fruiting lasts 3-4 weeks, covering the entire month of July, which, as a rule, is warm and sunny.

Heavy rains can significantly damage young berries - the fruits begin to rot. Therefore, if strawberries grow in open ground, it is advisable to lay a layer of mulch or covering material under the bushes a few days after flowering.

Thus, the growing fruits will not end up on the soil during rain and will not rot, because it is difficult to keep track of each berry, and it is especially a pity to lose a harvest when there is already so little of it.

How to speed up the process on your site?

Some gardeners grow strawberries in greenhouses to shift the ripening period to an earlier period. However, towards the end of summer, strawberries in a greenhouse are at risk of overheating - the stuffy and humid atmosphere under the polycarbonate may be too stuffy and humid for them. This, in turn, will not keep you waiting for various fungal diseases.

The best option for ripening in more early dates will planting strawberries in greenhouses under lutrasil. As the weather warms up, arcs are installed on the bed reserved for strawberries and covered with non-woven material.

If strawberries are already growing in the garden bed, then you can install a greenhouse as soon as the thermometer stops dropping below -5 degrees.

A space covered with lutrasil will warm up faster under spring sun and will allow the soil to thaw, allowing plants to begin their growing season earlier.

The covering material can remain over the garden bed all season - it will protect the plantings from heavy rains, reduce the risk of rotting berries and protect against sudden frosts. Under it, the strawberries feel good and ripen well, but during flowering for the day it is necessary to fold back the covering canopy. This is done so that beneficial insects can pollinate the strawberry inflorescences.

Another effective way to speed up fruiting is covering row spacing with black opaque cloth. The dark surface will attract Sun rays– the soil will warm up quickly. The shoots of young weeds under the material will simply burn, which is an additional advantage.

To speed up the start of flowering, the bushes are watered with water heated to 60 degrees. This procedure is also a preventative measure, as it kills spider mite larvae.

After upper layer When the ground thaws, it is necessary to cut off dry leaves, and remove the mulch laid in the fall from the roots - wet old mulch will delay the warming of the soil and delay the date of fruiting.

To the list of methods for obtaining early harvest also includes timely scheduled watering, fertilizing with mineral fertilizers, loosening rows to ensure access of oxygen to the roots. Don’t forget about preventive measures to combat fungal diseases and insect pests.

You can watch a video about the flowering times of strawberries below.

This berry is one of my family's favorites. Since June, everyone is looking forward to the first strawberries. The year before last, I added several more remontant varieties to my garden and now I can pamper my family with strawberries throughout the summer.

Many will agree that home-grown berries are tastier and sweeter than “rubbery” and tasteless ones from the supermarket. After all, in our garden we try to grow environmentally friendly food that can be easily given to children.

To understand when you can harvest, you need to take into account several factors, without knowledge of which it is difficult to determine the timing of harvest. Strawberries are a capricious berry and require constant care, as well as knowledge of planting and fertilizing rules.

1. You definitely need to know when the berries are planted. The plant is usually planted in August or September, sometimes in October. It is important that the bush takes root well and the root system adapts to the soil.
2. If this time is missed, then the berries are planted already in April and covered with film, since there may still be frosts at night and the earth has not warmed up.
3. An important factor is the characteristics of the soil and climate in the area where strawberries are grown. If the summer is rainy and cold, then you cannot count on a good harvest. Also, heat and drought, lack of timely watering will also not bring the desired result. We will consider growing strawberries in central Russia.
4. The most important thing is which varieties are grown in the garden or in the greenhouse. Now many people grow remontant varieties. They bring harvest throughout the summer - 2 - 3 times. The process proceeds in waves. If the beginning of autumn spoils you with warm weather, then in October you can still collect a small harvest of the last berries.
5. Most gardeners grow this berry in open ground and choose local or selective varieties. The first berries can be collected in early June or mid-July. If the weather is bad, it is recommended to improve the yield using liquid foliar fertilizer from the Folirus line. They not only help to grow a decent strawberry crop, but also improve the taste of the berries.

So, only by connecting all the main factors together can we draw some conclusions about the timing of the first and subsequent harvests. Let's try to figure it out in order.

Features of growing remontant varieties

There are many varieties of this species, and each has its own advantages. General terms cultivation and rules allow you to feed and properly care for strawberry bushes in a timely manner.

Here are the most famous varieties of remontant strawberries:

• Super-production.
• Albion.
• Geneva.
• Fort Lar.
• Vima Rina.
• Alapahoe.
• Beauty.
• Queen Elizabeth 2.
• Red Rich.
• Portola.
• Monterey.
• Diamond.

It is important to remember that to maintain the purity of the variety, it is better to propagate the berries using mustaches. But you can also divide the bush and seeds. The advantage of seed propagation is the purity of the variety and healthy berries. They are larger than regular varieties; the weight of one berry can reach up to 75 grams.

As for the tendrils, all remontant varieties are not distinguished by large tendrils (sometimes they are practically absent). This is an advantage of regular strawberries.

Main phytoperiods of cultivation

1. All garden strawberries are divided into 3 periods depending on the length of daylight hours: long-day, short-day and neutral strawberries. The peculiarity of varieties of different periods is characterized by their ability to produce different yields.
2. The second or third harvest often accounts for 60 to 90% of the total fruiting of long-day strawberries. Naturally, a very large load falls on the bushes. Often, if not properly cared for, strawberries die after the last harvest because there are not enough nutrients.
3. Neutral varieties do not depend in their development on the length of daylight hours and produce a harvest every 6 weeks. From July to mid-autumn the bulk of the crop ripens. These varieties may soon completely supplant all others, because they produce a lot of berries all season long.

This strawberry bears fruit throughout the summer and part of the fall, so it needs good care and attention. Some knowledge and skills are needed to keep yields good.

Rules for caring for remontant varieties

• The duration of fruiting for varieties with neutral daylight hours is no more than a year, and for long-day varieties - no more than three, because the load on the bushes is very high. Therefore, special care is simply necessary.
• It is advisable to remove the first flower stalks, then the second ovary and subsequent harvests will be much larger.
• It is advisable to plant new bushes in places where onions, carrots, beets, and radishes (green manure crops) previously grew. Remontant strawberries do not really like the following predecessors: peppers, eggplants, potatoes, cabbage, cucumbers, legumes. You can plant garlic between rows to protect strawberries from pests and fungal infections.
• Bushes should be planted in holes at a distance of 20 - 25 cm. The row spacing should be at least 50 cm wide.
• Be sure to choose well-lit and warm places for planting and ensure regular watering.
• First loosen the soil, and then mulch.
• Fertilize and feed in a timely manner, remove old dried and reddening leaves.

In order for the plant to prepare for winter, which is problematic because we harvest even in October, the beds should be covered with film.

Especially in regions with cold climates. This will increase the yield and make it possible to pick ripe berries earlier. If you do not track the process of preparing for winter, the strawberries may simply freeze.

Ripening of ordinary strawberries

Such bushes produce a harvest mainly once per season. Their fruits are smaller - 25 - 30 grams. The antennae are much more developed compared to remontant varieties strawberries Divided into 4 subgroups:

1. Early ripening period.
2. Mid-early.
3. Average.
4. Late.

Each subgroup has its most favorite varieties, which are priority when planting. Let's take a closer look at the features of some.

Early varieties of strawberries

Honey

I fell in love with it because of its large, dense and juicy berries (up to 40 g). You can collect up to one and a half kg from one bush. Despite their large size, they have an excellent sweet taste. They begin to ripen from May 15 to May 25.

Alba

A big plus is high disease resistance. The fruits are medium (up to 30 g), elongated conical in shape. In the European part of Russia, the berry ripens early - in the first ten days of May. Up to 1.2 kg is collected from one bush. The variety also tolerates transportation well.

Clery

The variety also has very large fruits - at first up to 50 grams, at the end of fruiting up to 30 grams. They have a wonderful strawberry aroma, are well transported, are well preserved, do not rot, and on average they harvest up to one and a half kg from one bush.

Anita and Kimberly are also popular. The berries of these varieties have a pronounced sweet taste. The advantage is that with excellent taste they have high yields.

Mid-early varieties

Crown

Considered a Dutch variety, it begins to bear fruit between the 15th and 18th of June. Powdery mildew almost never occurs.

Florida Festival

The berries are very large (up to 50 g) and store well. They have an elongated shape, dense and juicy in structure. The variety is highly resistant to diseases.

Cardinal

They are medium in size (30 g), have a strong aroma, have an elongated shape, and are easily stored and transported. Gray rot is not terrible for this variety. Feature: It yields twice a season.

Still enjoying success: Anita, Krasny Bereg, Ellis.

Mid-season varieties

Elsanta

Dessert variety, very tasty strawberries, with a slight sourness, smaller than average size (13 - 15 g). The fruits are conical and slightly rounded. Perfectly stored.

Asia

The berries are quite large, weighing more than 40 grams. They have a sweet taste and tolerate transportation well.

White Swede

A unique variety - the berries are white with a pinkish tint, with a pronounced pineapple taste, fruit weight - up to 25 grams. Up to 1 kg is collected from the bush; strawberries are sweet to taste.

To these varieties you need to add the following: Nightingale, Syria, Marmelada, Darselect, Tsarina. They begin to ripen in the second half of June and actively bear fruit until the second half of July.

Late varieties of strawberries

Malvina

The latest to ripen is at the end of July. The berries are bright scarlet, juicy and shiny. Up to 2 kg are collected per season. Perfectly preserved. The variety is winter-hardy.

Bohemia

Often produces a second harvest on par with remontant varieties. On a bush big size fruits (up to 50 g), yield 1.5 - 1.8 kg per season. The shape is wide, cone-shaped, juicy inside, shiny on top and bright red.

Galia

Large strawberries - up to 40 grams, cone-shaped with a cut end, yield up to 1 kg from one bush. Inside, the berries are light pink, sweet and aromatic. The bushes are resistant to cold and disease.

Late-ripening varieties also include Galya Chiv, Adria, and Alice.

This video will help you learn how to care for strawberries after fruiting. at excellent care next year the strawberry bushes will again delight you with a good harvest. When you have more experience in growing strawberries, you can combine different varieties and types of this berry. Then there will be fresh fruit almost the entire season.

Strawberry - description of the berry

Strawberry is a perennial, herbaceous plant from the Rosaceae family. Strawberries are close relatives of strawberries. Strawberries bloom in May-July. It bears fruit with small, fleshy, fragrant and tasty berries.

Strawberries are classified as medicinal and dietary plants:

• Per 100 grams of product – 41 kcal.
• 7.5 g carbohydrates.
• 87.5 g water.
• 0.8 g protein.
• 0.4 g fat.
• 0.4 g ash

Strawberries contain useful substances, organic acids, fiber, nitrogenous compounds, salts of iron, cobalt, manganese, phosphorus, calcium, ascorbic, folic acid, vitamins (group B), carotene. Eating fresh strawberries improves immunity.

During the growing season, strawberries go through several development phases:

• beginning of growth
• setting buds
• bloom
• fruiting

Each stage of strawberry development requires certain care conditions. At the first stage - the beginning of growth - strawberries develop at temperatures 2 – 5° C. The weather during the growth period should be warm, moderately sunny. The gardener pays attention to lighting, heating the beds, moistening and fertilizing them. The presence of nutritious things affects the state of strawberries - they move to a new quality level and lay buds.

During the flowering period, strawberries undergo certain changes: the inflorescences recede into the background, and fruits form to replace them. Strawberries begin to bloom 15 days after the peduncle has grown. One strawberry flower pleases the eye for a maximum of 4 – 6 days, after which the rudiment of the berry appears.

Strawberries - how long does it take for the berries to ripen?

The berries ripen immediately after flowering ends. Depending on the variety and region of planting, as well as weather conditions and quality of care, fruiting times may vary, but there are general criteria, which the gardener focuses on.

Strawberries ripen in 15 – 35 days after flowering. The period of ripening of strawberries after the end of flowering and laying of the first fruits: from 20 to 35 days.

What happens after strawberries ripen? After the strawberry fruits finish ripening and harvesting, the growth of whiskers begins. The gardener may note that the process is intensified. A small part of the leaves around the rosette die, after which the rosettes remain unrooted. The formation of new leaves occurs only in September at moderate air temperatures.

In order for the growth of strawberry leaves or whiskers to continue, the berries are additionally watered. Watering should be moderate. From late August to mid-September there is a slowdown in strawberry growth. Nutrients accumulated during the growing season and fruiting contribute to the preservation of crops in winter.

From further care and wintering of strawberries in the soil mixture of the greenhouse or open ground The future fate of the berry depends: climate and care affect the formation of buds in the future. Required Criteria care:

• Heat and high air humidity retard the development of buds.
• Watering, moderate temperature, and lighting have a beneficial effect on the formation of ovaries.
• Regular irrigation and fertilizing of the beds accelerates the differentiation of buds in strawberries.

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