Carefully remove the hatched seeds from the container with tweezers and place them in a loose earthen substrate for further growth. To grow kobeya from seeds, it is better to use peat pots or tablets, because it root system very tender and it is advisable to exclude further picking, which is necessary when growing in one container.
Future vines that have grown to two or three leaves should be placed in a large container, which will help develop a powerful root system. In this case, the option with peat pots or tablets, which are placed in the soil mixture along with the plant, will be appreciated. If the kobeya sprouted in other containers, then it should be moved by transshipment, watering the soil well before doing this. You can start feeding seedlings immediately after the first shoots hatch.
By the time of transplantation into open ground, the vine can reach a meter in length. You should immediately take care of the support, otherwise its tenacious antennae will find it at their own discretion. If you have to transport the plant to the planting site, then it is better to provide it with strings, tying them to something. Then for transportation you can easily twist the vine together with the rope, which will prevent mechanical damage.
Caring for kobei seedlings
Plant kobeya grown from seeds on permanent place It should be pre-hardened no earlier than the beginning of June, when the threat of frost has completely passed. To do this, you need to dig holes, the depth of which is slightly greater than the height of the container with the plant, and fill them by a third with loose fertile soil. Water the soil in the flowerpot with plenty of water, wait until it is completely absorbed and carefully remove the earthen ball with roots. Place it in the hole, fill the sides with soil and water. The distance between planted plants should not be less than half a meter.
Kobeya is an amazingly beautiful decorative vine of the cyanaceae family. It comes from humid mountain forests South America. And it got its name in honor of the Spanish monk Barnabas Cobo, a famous naturalist.
Kobei has very tenacious climbing stems, often reaching six meters in length. Multiple tendrils help the plant cling to any support.
The root system is strong, fibrous, with branches and cord-like processes. The flowers are large, up to 8 cm in diameter. They grow singly, and can be grouped in leaf axils of 3-4 pieces. They have an elongated peduncle and an elegant bell-shaped shape.
The stamens and pistil protrude significantly beyond the petals, which gives the flowers a special sophistication. U soft leaves light green hue and complex pinnate shape, including three lobes. Gardeners began to use kobeya in vertical gardening since the end of the 18th century.
In its homeland, the flower is represented by 9 species, but in our gardens and at home only one is grown - climbing kobe.
Its other names are creeping ivy, climbing ivy, Mexican ivy and monastery bells. Kobeya gives a large number of shoots reaching 4 meters in length. The leaves are feather-shaped, very delicate with slight wrinkles, and the ends are crowned with branched tendrils. When blooming, the buds of the plant are greenish in color and smell of musk. Gradually they acquire lilac shade, later - dark purple and exude the smell of honey. Breeders have developed another variety of kobei - Alba, which has white flowers.
In South America, this plant is a perennial, but in our gardens, kobeya is grown as an annual - because of its heat-loving nature, it does not survive the winter. It is usually propagated by seeds. This is a simple but quite interesting procedure. Need to know here specific features preparation seed material. Sometimes kobeya is propagated by cuttings from mother stems.
Sowing kobea seeds
You can prepare seeds for planting at the end of winter. They are quite large with a hard shell, which makes germination difficult. Therefore, before sowing, certain preparation is carried out, which makes it possible to remove the crusts manually. To do this, the seeds are laid out in a wide container at some distance from each other, filled with water and covered in such a way that the moisture evaporates as slowly as possible. After the shell gets wet, it is removed and the seeds are put back.
When the planting material is cleared, take toilet paper, folded in 2-3 layers and moistened with a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate. The seeds are carefully placed on it and placed in a plastic bag, which should be kept warm and well lit. The germination process takes approximately 2 weeks, during which you need to ensure that the seeds are moist. If mold appears, they are carefully washed and the paper is changed.
After the seeds germinate, they are transferred to loose soil, placed on a flat barrel, and covered with about a one and a half centimeter layer of soil. Due to the fact that kobeya does not withstand the first picking, it would be optimal to use small individual cups, covering them with polyethylene on top. The containers are placed in bright room at a temperature of 20°C. The film should be removed daily to ventilate and moisten the plantings. If you have previously germinated the seeds, seedlings will appear in the second week.
Diving seedlings
When the first two leaves on the plants develop well, they are picked. To do this, use large pots (at least 3 liters), which are filled with drainage and topped with a nutritious soil composition. Thanks to the large volume of containers, by the time they are transplanted into open ground, the seedlings will have formed a strong root system. And this is the key to active growth, strong shoots, size and number of buds. Before picking, the soil is well watered, then the sprouts are carefully removed, preserving the earthen lump as much as possible, and transplanted into new containers. Young growth definitely needs supports to support fast-growing stems.
Transplanting kobei into open ground
Plants should be planted in an open, bright area, but protected from drafts. Kobeya can tolerate partial shade, but shady places are contraindicated for it - growth and flowering will slow down greatly. Young seedlings do not like cold weather, so it is optimal to harden off the plants first, for example, by moving the flower to a glassed-in loggia.
If low temperatures still possible, the kobeya is covered with non-woven material folded in 2-3 layers.
Plants are planted at a distance of 0.5-1 m from each other. Equal volumes of turf soil, peat and humus are poured into the pits. The soil must certainly be loose. The seedlings are watered for easy removal, and after transplanting they are covered with soil and slightly moistened. Subsequently, the soil around the kobe can be covered with sawdust or peat mulch. It is imperative to install supports for weaving, along which the stems will climb with the help of tendrils, or to plant plants near trees, walls, a gazebo, or a fence.
Note! If you want to admire a more magnificent and compact bush, periodically pinch the tops of the stems. This way the shoots will gain greater strength, will not be too intertwined with each other and will not lose their decorative effect.
Watering kobei
The tropical beauty is very moisture-loving and needs systematic, abundant watering, especially during hot periods. But an excess of water should not be allowed - the roots will rot, so water after the top soil layer has dried out.
From the moment the first leaves develop until the buds are forced out, the plant needs nitrogen-containing fertilizers, which contribute to the growth of green mass. Then they are replaced with phosphorus-potassium ones to stimulate and maintain flowering. Due to the fact that kobeya is a large vine, it is fed once every two weeks. Mineral fertilizers and organic matter can be alternated if desired.
Kobeya in winter
If you don't want to bother with seeds every year, you can try saving the plant as a perennial. Why, after the end of flowering (usually October), the kobeya is dug up, trying not to injure the roots, and transplanted into a container of suitable volume. Then the plant is placed in a dark and cool (8-10°C) room, possibly in a cellar, and left there until spring. At the same time, the soil is moistened once a month so that the root system does not dry out and die. In March, the kobeya is taken out of its winter shelter and transferred to a bright and warm room, increase the number of waterings, and when the first leaves appear, they begin to feed with nitrogen compounds.
After growth has been activated, young cuttings of the plant can be taken for propagation. But you should take into account their fragility and cut them off extremely carefully. The shoots are immersed in pots with wet sand and placed in a bright place, covered with glass jars. Until the beginning of June, the branches will take root, after which they are transplanted to a permanent place.
Important! Kobeya grown by cuttings blooms earlier, but the flowers of plants obtained from seeds are more saturated and spectacular.
Disease and pest control
Aphids and spider mites often like to take root on kobei. That is why the plant needs to be regularly examined prophylactically, and if an infection is noticed, treatment should be started in a timely manner. Treat the plant with solutions of laundry or green soap, infusions of onion peels and garlic. If these methods do not help, use insecticides.
Black spots found on leaves and flowers indicate rot of the root system. In this case, you should remove all damaged areas, dry and loosen the soil. Then the soil is spilled with a fungicide solution. To prevent the problem from recurring, you need to adjust the quantity and volume of watering in the future.
Causes of poor growth of kobei
If a flower does not please you with tall, lush stems, it means it is not satisfied with its planting location or care. In order for kobeya to initially be characterized by active growth and early flowering, if possible, the seedlings should be covered for the first time. In this case, young seedlings adapt faster, develop a more powerful root system and form buds earlier.
How and when to collect kobe seeds
In our country, kobeya begins to bloom in July and delights with its purple lights until October. That is why in most regions the seed material simply does not have time to ripen. And since the seeds even the best manufacturers have a germination percentage of only about thirty, then it makes no sense to collect them yourself in an unripe form, since seedlings are unlikely to appear. Because the best option will buy planting material in a specialty store.
If you properly care for your kobeya, it will very quickly delight you with a lush green carpet with large bright bells. This chic shelter will perfectly shade a gazebo, become a hedge, and climb any uneven surface and will decorate your garden in an original way. Flower growers often plant kobeya on balconies if they face south. And with the help of this wonderful vine they create original compositions and amazing living curtains, attaching the stems to various supports.
Articles on the topic
One of the many types of tropical vines, it has unusually beautiful and large flowers. At home perennial, in our conditions it rarely survives the winter, it has to be planted every year. In the tropics, kobeya has nine species; in our country, only two are grown: with purple and white flowers. These two species are most adapted to unfavorable climatic conditions.
The plant has tenacious tendrils that allow it to hold firmly on vertical planes and climb from one support to another. The flowers are shaped like bells and can reach eight centimeters in diameter. As they develop, the color of the flowers changes, which gives them a special beauty. Plants are very often used by professional landscape designers For vertical gardening gazebos, verandas, fences, etc.
Flowers can be single or group, grow from the axils of the leaves on long stalks. The fruit is a capsule with a hard skin, opens at the side seams, the seeds are flat and oval. In the conditions of our country, most often they do not fully ripen. For cultivation, you should buy it in specialized flower shops.
An adult plant prefers fertile, loose soil and requires abundant watering. Does not tolerate shade; development is slightly inhibited in partial shade. Young shoots die when frozen, adults can withstand down to -5°C.
Planting seeds
You need to start planting seeds from February to March. The earlier the better. But the climate zone of residence should be taken into account. When planting in open ground, the risk of frost should be minimal. If the weather forecast is unfavorable, then the seedlings must be protected from freezing temperatures.
It is difficult for the seeds to germinate; soaking and stimulation are recommended to increase germination. Kobe seeds are large, there are five pieces in one bag. If you purchase goods from trusted sellers, then there is hope that out of five pieces, four will come up. But practitioners advise to count on about 50%; it is better to sow with a reserve than to regret the pennies saved later. Growing Kobei You can make it from seeds in two ways.
Dry seeds
Land can be purchased ( the best option) or prepared independently. To prepare the soil, one part of turf soil is mixed with one part of washed sand. To increase nutritional value, it is recommended to add humus or complex mineral fertilizers to the mixture.
Very important. The seeds have a very hard seed coat, which damages the first leaves during germination. In order to help shed it, the soil must be strongly compacted after sowing. Such an agrotechnical technique will enable the plant to free itself from the seed coat while still in the ground; the cotyledon leaves will not be damaged.
Prepared seeds
Before sowing, the material is soaked in growth stimulants.
You can use any, they all have a positive effect. Experienced flower growers It is recommended to remove the shell yourself. To do this, after swelling, you need to very carefully pry it with a needle and try to remove it. How to properly prepare seeds?
Seeds take a long time to germinate, about three weeks. You need to be prepared for such long periods and not panic prematurely.
How to plant sprouted seeds in pots or cups
- Carefully remove the hatched kobe seeds and place them on a previously prepared and moistened substrate, flat side down, sprout up. Sprinkle about 1.5 cm of soil on top and water again with a sprayer. Compact the soil a little. The seeds of the plant are large, this allows you to immediately plant the plants separately, and in the future there will be no need for thinning and picking.
- Cover the cups or pots with film and place the containers on the windowsill. It is highly desirable that this be South side, natural light is very important for kobei.
Slightly grown seedlings with two true leaves need to be transplanted into larger ones (at least three liters) flower pots, in them they can form a powerful root system, and this is very important for increasing survival rate.
At the same stage of growth, plants are hardened. The procedure must be performed without haste. First, take the vines out onto the balcony for several hours in good weather.
Over time, the period of exposure to the open air increases. When the weather gets significantly warmer, you can try leaving them overnight. Just be very careful, watch the weather and don’t let the sprouts fall under negative temperatures. Hardening lasts approximately three weeks, thus achieving the expected effect in a plant-friendly manner.
Transferring kobei to open ground
The specific date is determined by the climatic zone of residence and actual weather conditions. It is recommended to transfer seedlings when the night temperature does not fall below +5°C. For the middle zone of our country this is the end of May or the beginning of June.
Important. Keeping seedlings in pots for a long time is not good for them. It is more difficult for plants to take root, and the transfer process becomes more complicated.
First you need to decide on a place. It should be sunny and protected from cold winds, especially northern and eastern ones. The soil must be fertile. If the land on the site is not fertile, then you will have to prepare the land yourself for the kobei. You can enter organic fertilizers into existing ones, or you can bring a completely new one under the beds. On heavy clay soils the plant feels very bad, development slows down, and sometimes there may be no flowering. Clay lands will have to be improved. There are several methods.
- First. Stir with river sand in a 1:1 ratio and add organic fertilizers.
- Second. Bring fertile land. Dig out the clay to a depth of forty centimeters, pour new soil into the prepared areas.
Practical advice. Replacement or improvement of the soil should be done in a timely manner. At the time of planting, it should already shrink; this will take at least a month. Otherwise, the soil will shrink faster than the root system grows, small roots will be injured or torn off, which has an extremely Negative influence for the growing season.
Remove the kobeya from the pots along with the soil, making sure that the roots are not damaged. If the soil is difficult to remove, it is recommended to water the plants abundantly in the evening and move the replanting to the morning. Plant kobeya in prepared holes, the depth of which corresponds to the height of the soil in the pots. Sprinkling the stem with new soil is not recommended.
The distance between plants is within one meter; after transplanting, water the plants immediately. At the same time, you need to install supports along which the vine will rise. It can be as ordinary wooden stairs, and decorative supports. If there is concern that night frosts may return, then the plants should be covered. It is better to use non-woven modern lightweight materials for these purposes.
Kobei look very beautiful on various arches. To make it easier for plants to attach to load-bearing structures recommended to use plastic mesh with large cells.
Some gardeners offer interesting way planting kobei. They plant seeds in summer peat tablets. Until mid-autumn they grow a little. Then the plants are put into the cellar and stored until spring at a temperature of +5–8°C. In the spring, when the threat of frost has passed, the plants are taken out to Fresh air, harden, awaken and transplant into open ground. Plants planted in this way bloom much earlier. The only problem is that you need to constantly monitor the condition of the plants in the cellar all winter. They should not outgrow; there should be enough light for the growing season.
Plant care
As already mentioned, the homeland of kobei is the tropics. Hence the rules for caring for vines. She is afraid of two things - hypothermia and lack of moisture. It is necessary to water especially abundantly in the first months after planting in open ground; in the future, the frequency and dose of watering can be reduced. If plants are planted in the shade, and the temperature is insufficient, then the risk of root rot is high. It is very difficult to fight this disease. If the plant does not die, it will not throw away its flower stalks. This means that it will be possible to admire their beauty only at next year on new plants.
The first fertilizing should contain nitrogen. With its help, a powerful root system and leaves are formed. Subsequently, as development progresses, the intensity of nitrogen fertilizing is reduced and eventually stopped completely. Adult plants are fed only with phosphorus and potassium. These nutrients are needed for the formation of buds.
The length of the vine can be up to ten meters; if this parameter is not adjusted, it will crawl far up and there it will begin to curl up into a ball. To prevent such phenomena, the plant is pinched. But don’t get too carried away, otherwise the vine will become very low and wide.
Pests and diseases
The biggest problems can be caused by aphids and mites. The fight is on in the usual way, showed itself well liquid soap with fitoverm.
Is it possible to collect seeds?
Possible, but not in all cases climatic zones. We have already mentioned that not all latitudes have a sufficient amount of positive temperatures for the full ripening of seeds. If you live in the south, then try collecting them. To do this, you need to plant the plants in open ground as early as possible to give them enough time to mature. But it should be remembered that even professional agronomists In our country, seeds with a germination rate of no more than 30% are collected. Now think about whether it’s worth the risk and being left without these next year beautiful plants due to the fact that the seeds were not viable.
Video - Growing Kobei
Among the wide range of climbing plants for vertical gardening, one cannot fail to mention kobeya, whose charming filigree bells adorn the walls of buildings and pergolas in the garden. You can grow tenacious kobeya yourself; it’s not at all difficult to do. Kobeya: growing from seeds - this article is all about the intricacies of planting and caring for the crop.
An amazing vine with purple bells is ideal for vertical gardening.
Creeping kobeya is a vine with openwork leaves, among which amazing bell-shaped flowers of white, green or purple. The color of the flower changes as the buds bloom from white to violet tone. The amazing bells reach up to 8 cm in diameter; they decorate flexible shoots from July to October. The kobei flower has an amazing structure - bells with a graceful bend are located in the axils of the leaves. From a cup delicate flower curved stamens protrude outward, giving the flowers an inexpressible charm.
The plant quickly grows a thick green carpet, rising to a height of up to 6 meters. The green stems are held in an upright position thanks to numerous tenacious tendrils, but to increase the decorativeness of the plant, it is best to arrange special supports along which the kobei stems can curl.
In nature, the habitat of the kobei is limited to the territory of Central America, but currently the liana is grown on many continents, and in New Zealand the flowering liana has been declared a harmful weed.
For the first time, a decorative vine with charming flowers was discovered and described by the famous Spanish naturalist Bernabe Cobo (1582 - 1657), whose name was later given to a plant that belongs to the Sinyukhidae family.
Kobeya can be planted near gazebos, decorative grilles and walls of buildings, the vine is characterized by rapid growth; the root system of the plant is very powerful and branched, although it consists of many small fibrous roots.
In nature, kobeya is grown as a perennial plant; in the harsher conditions of Russia, the plant is grown as an annual. IN southern regions It is possible to provide a favorable wintering for the plant if there is reliable shelter from frost. Another option for preserving the plant in winter is to transplant the kobeya into a container and store the rhizomes in a place protected from frost.
Growing Kobei
Graceful stamens adorn a filigree purple bell.
Planting and caring for kobeya is a very exciting activity, but in order to grow healthy plant, you must carefully follow the rules of agricultural technology.
Basic requirements for growing kobei
To plant the plant, you need to choose the brightest and sunniest place. The culture is very demanding of bright lighting. If the plant is planted in dense shade, it may be delayed in development, and flowering in this case may not occur at all. Kobeya can be grown in sparse partial shade only as a last resort, if a better free place for planting the plant could not be found.
The soil for planting kobeya should be light, loose and fertile; the nutrient mixture is made up of humus, turf and leaf soil, and coarse sand in equal proportions.
In soil prepared according to the above recipe, you can grow kobeya in cool winter gardens, where the plant can be cultivated as a perennial, because adult bushes can withstand short-term frosts down to – 5C.
Sowing seeds for seedlings
Seedlings are dived into individual cups.
In order for the kobeya to have time to please with its flowering, seeds for seedlings should be sown from the end of February to mid-March. Kobe seeds have a very hard shell, so it will not be possible to do without additional processing of the seed.
You can facilitate seed germination by pre-soaking them in a solution of growth stimulants. For soaking you can use “Epin”, “Zircon”, succinic acid, in the solution of which kobei seeds are placed. After some time, a layer of mucus appears on the surface of the seeds, which should be removed, after which the seeds are again placed in a container with a solution of growth regulators. This procedure is repeated several times until the seed shell is sufficiently thin.
After the end of the preparation period, you need to wait for the roots to appear from the seed, after which you can start sowing. It is most convenient to sow kobeya in separate cups, so the plant will more easily tolerate transplantation into open ground without damaging the overgrown root system. Individual cups are filled with a light nutrient substrate. Seeds should be planted in the ground one at a time in a cup, immersing them no more than 1.5 cm. The first shoots from the seeds may appear by the end of the second week. There are cases where kobei seeds sprouted after a month or even later.
Sometimes, due to reasons, the seeds have to be sown in one common container, then when the seedlings have the third true leaf, they must be planted in separate cups.
Hardening of seedlings
Growing kobei from seeds is not an easy task, but if you follow all necessary measures, available strong seedlings plants yourself. One of the mandatory agricultural practices is hardening, which is carried out in a bright, cool place (glazed but unheated balconies and loggias are ideal).
Young seedlings are taken out into a cool room for several hours, not forgetting to bring the boxes with plants into a warm place overnight.
Planting in open ground
Answering the question of when to plant kobeya in open ground, it is worth noting that plant seedlings are planted only with the onset of stable heat. Kobei seedlings are very tender and are afraid of the cold, so even a slight drop in temperature can lead to the death of young plants.
Plants are planted in open ground at a distance of 0.5 to 1 meter, in separate holes. It is useful to immediately install supporting supports in the planting holes when planting plants.
Seedlings are carefully removed from containers or placed in holes along with a peat pot. It is very important not to bury the plant, but to install the seedling strictly vertically. After filling the hole with soil and installing the stake, the plants should be watered thoroughly.
Care
Kobeya is characterized by rapid growth, so after planting young plants in open ground, you should immediately ensure that the vine has support as the shoots lengthen.
To stimulate branching of the plant, it is necessary to pinch the tops of the shoots of the kobei, then the vine will begin to bush vigorously. Additional shoots increase the decorativeness of the plant as a whole, this concerns the density of the bush and an increase in the number of buds.
When caring for kobeya, you should carefully observe the watering regime - the plant is watered regularly and abundantly, but overwatering can cause rotting of the roots, as well as provoke an outbreak of infectious fungal diseases.
It is best to mulch the soil under the vines with peat chips or bark, this way you can maintain soil moisture longer and reduce watering.
During the summer, it is necessary to weed out the weeds that grow under the kobeya. Laying a mulch layer can inhibit the growth of weeds.
Fertilizer
For favorable growth of kobei, it is very important to carry out the necessary weekly fertilizing on time, for which you can use complex fertilizers. During the period of bud formation, it is very important to provide plants with phosphorus supplements - this will help make each flower as large and brightly colored as possible.
Plants respond favorably to the application of summer foliar feeding on the leaves, just spray nutrient solution through a spray bottle, the leaves become greener and stronger, and the buds develop faster.
Pests and diseases
There are always ants near aphid colonies, which spread the aphids onto healthy plants.
IN summer time on the leaf blades of kobei can be seen spider mite, which multiplies quickly in extreme heat. Leaves decorative vine quickly turn yellow, dry out and fall off. Ticks are microscopic in size; it is very difficult to recognize a pest infestation, because they choose to settle bottom part leaf blade. With significant pest infestation, tiny cobwebs appear on the leaves and stems. Treatment with special preparations will help get rid of pests; Actellik, Fitoverm, Fufanon help well.
Another pest that plagues kobei plantings is aphids. Treatment of vines against aphids must be carried out in conjunction with the destruction of garden ants, which form a stable symbiosis with aphids, carrying pest eggs over long distances. Ants contribute to the significant spread of aphids throughout the green mass of plants.
Fungal infections can greatly harm kobei plantings if watering is disrupted and the plant’s immune system is weakened. To eliminate the causes of the disease, it is necessary to streamline care climbing vines, in case of significant damage, use fungicides to treat kobei. When planting plants, it is necessary to provide for laying a drainage layer in the planting holes; this operation will protect the roots of the kobei from rot.
Kobei varieties
White-flowered variety of Cobea scandens alba.
In total, nine species of cobaea are known in nature, of which one is used in decorative floriculture - tenacious cobaea (Cobaea scandens). This species is a perennial climbing vine that blooms with purple bells with a distinct honey aroma.
A subspecies of this plant is the white-flowered cobea (Cobea scandens alba), its snow-white bells form a harmonious combination with lilac flowers, so often both varieties of plants are planted side by side.
Climbing kobei plants can be planted to create vertical flowering walls in composition with morning glory, sweet pea, thunbergia, azarina and other climbing flower crops with identical cultivation techniques.
Kobeya during flowering is distinguished by its extraordinary beauty and grace, so it is worth making an effort to grow this plant.
Kobeya climbing (pictured) in natural conditions found in tropical parts of South America. It received its name in honor of the Jesuit priest B. Cobo, who for many decades studied the Inca civilization in Mexico. And it was given the name by the botanist Cavanilles, who brought it to the botanical garden of Madrid in 1804. And although it has been cultivated for several centuries, but in Russian gardens and in dachas this spectacular liana can be seen rarely.
She is part of the Sinyukhov family. The genus of this plant includes about a dozen species, but only one species is used for vertical gardening and landscaping - climbing kobeya.
This original climbing perennial plant attracts attention with large, fragrant, hanging flowers, shaped like bells, which are colored purple. At the very beginning, kobei flowers have a greenish tint, then become white, and later purple. But now modern varieties of white kobe have been created.
The diameter of the flowers can vary from 5 to 8 centimeters, and their length is about 5 cm. On numerous long stems (up to 4 meters), they are located on elongated pedicels, one at a time or 2-3 pieces in the axils of the leaves. The original and spectacular look of kobei flowers is given by the elongated stamens and pistil, which are curled at the ends.
Slightly wrinkled, pinnate leaves, consisting of 3 pairs of leaves, are attached to numerous shoots opposite each other using cuttings of medium length. At the end of each leaf there is a strong, well-branched tendril, similar to a grape. With its help, the kobei is attached to supports and rises to great heights. A large number of branched brownish-green shoots form " green wall» several meters high in just a few weeks.
Long flowering begins in July and continues until the first frost. Large, slightly rounded seeds are formed in a small capsule covered with a leathery shell in September. But it is not always possible for them to fully mature in the conditions of our country.
Since kobeya can withstand only 5 degrees below zero in cold weather, it is usually grown as annual plant. But you can also store the vine rhizome, dug out with a lump of earth, in a cool place (3-5 degrees). Kobeya is also perfect for container growing and with this method of cultivation it is easiest to preserve, since there is no need to dig it up and replant it the next year.
This climbing plant is propagated using seeds and cuttings, which are cut from the mother plants. Growing kobeya from seeds does not require special knowledge and effort, but you need to know some aspects of this process. Optimal time for sowing is the end of February - beginning of March. Plants sown during this period usually bloom in July. At the right conditions Growing from sowing to the beginning of flowering takes 20 weeks.
Before planting, it is advisable to soak the seeds in water for a couple of hours and then place them in a solution with a stimulant to increase germination for five or six hours. For this you can use “Epin”, “Gumat-Baikal” or “Energin”.
After this treatment, the seeds are placed in low containers filled with loose, nutritious, breathable, well-moistened soil, and covered with a small layer of earth from 1 to 1.5 cm. The container with the seeds is covered with glass, transparent plastic or film to maintain the humidity at 100 percent. Best temperature For germination, 21 degrees Celsius is considered. Minimum temperature germination is 16 degrees.
Kobea seeds 
The appearance of the first seedlings occurs within 2-4 weeks. During this period, be sure to ventilate containers with seeds. As soon as most of the seeds germinate, the cover is removed. To prevent the appearance of rot, mold or fungal diseases, the soil is spilled with phytosporin or a solution of potassium permanganate.
As soon as the first pair of true leaves appear on the seedlings, they are planted in containers with a diameter of about 12 centimeters with supports. This must be done carefully, trying to preserve all the roots of the seedlings. Supports for young plants are needed to prevent them from falling and clinging to each other.
You can also germinate seeds on wet cloth or paper. They are laid out so that they do not touch each other. In this case, you can immediately see which seeds are alive and which are not. And since seed germination is about 30 percent, this makes it possible to reduce the area under seeds and soil consumption. After the seeds hatch, they are planted in separate containers with a diameter of about 12 cm and covered with sufficiently moist soil (1-1.5 cm). As the seedlings grow, they are transplanted into containers bigger size.
Attention! It is worth remembering that the better developed the seedlings are, the more powerful they will be and the faster they will bloom.
Kobeya can be propagated using cuttings. They are harvested at the very beginning of intensive growth of plants that overwintered in cool rooms and then were planted in open ground in the spring. Cuttings are cut from shoots 15 to 25 cm long with several pairs of leaves (2 to 4) and rooted in damp sand in a slightly shaded place. Rooted cuttings develop much more faster than plants, obtained from seeds, but they do not bloom so abundantly and powerfully.
Very often, gardeners complain that their crops do not germinate; the problem may be that it was not done...
Landing
The place for growing is chosen in areas with strong solar lighting and fertile, loose soil. It must also be protected from cold winds and strong air currents.
It is advisable to plant climbing kobeya near walls facing south or west. It’s good if an openwork shadow falls on the plant on a hot afternoon. Groundwater in the place of permanent cultivation should be located at a depth of at least a couple of meters.
Planting holes are filled with a mixture of peat, sand, humus and turf soil. Superphosphate and flower fertilizers are also added to it. Seedlings with a lump of earth are carefully removed from the containers, planted, attached to a support and watered with plenty of water. After watering, it is advisable to mulch the soil with rotted leaves, peat or tree bark. This prevents the formation of a crust on the surface of the soil, retains moisture in it and prevents weeds from growing.
Kobeya is planted in open ground only after the last frost has passed. In the southern part of Russia this happens after May 10-15, and in middle lane– June 10-15.
Remember that young plants absolutely cannot tolerate the slightest frost.
Approximately 70-90 cm is left between the seedlings. For a fairly heavy kobei, support in the form of a rope, a mesh of various materials or trellises, more about which you can find out. First, the stems need to be tied up, and later they will weave along the support on their own.
If cold weather or heavy rains are expected immediately after planting, then the ground around the seedling should be mulched with dry grass, and it is better to cover the kobeya itself with several layers of lutrasil. If suddenly top part the shoot is a little frozen, then it needs to be shortened. With the onset of good weather, the shelter is immediately removed.
Care
Because this plant grows quickly, it requires large amounts of nutrients. You need to start feeding kobeya two weeks after planting. During this time, the culture takes root and begins to grow rapidly.
Fertilizers with a predominance of nitrogen are required for fertilizing in the first month, since the green mass of shoots and leaves increases. And when the buds begin to appear, it is better to choose fertilizers with more phosphorus and potassium, they help the plant during flowering.
The vine should be watered sparingly throughout the season, except on very hot and dry days. At this time, the amount of water is increased, but care must be taken to ensure that there is no excess moisture.
The climbing kobea practically does not need pruning and shaping, but you can remove dried flowers so that the plant does not waste energy on producing seeds. You also need to make sure that the vine does not entangle its neighbors growing next to it.
Aphids and spider mites can cause great harm to this vine. When aphids appear, the plant is treated with Fufanon, Actellik, Aktara or Bankop. Spraying is carried out at intervals of 2-4 weeks.
Spider mite
Spider mites are very dangerous pest, after which the plants are quickly depleted. This pest most often appears during hot and dry periods. To prevent spider mites, plants need to be showered frequently and the soil should not be allowed to dry out. When this insect appears, the plants are treated with “Aktelik”, “Fitoferm”, “Neoron”. Usually two treatments are carried out.
With the onset of late autumn (before the first frost), the shoots of the kobei bush are cut off at the level of half a meter from the surface of the ground, and branched root with a small lump of earth, carefully dig it up and place it in a cool place for storage. dry room with a temperature of 5 to 7 degrees. During winter period The bushes are regularly inspected and slightly moistened so that they do not dry out too much.
In the spring, when the last frost has not yet passed, the plants can be planted in large containers with soil and started to germinate in a bright room. And when the time comes for planting in open ground (May - June, depending on the region), the plants will already have grown shoots.
When transplanting from a container into the ground, you need to preserve the earthen ball with roots. At the end of it, the bush is watered with a large amount of water, and then with a solution of “Kornevin” or another stimulant, which helps the formation of small white absorbing roots.
Petunia is one of the most popular flowers, attractive and quite unpretentious. They look very impressive...
Using kobeya in landscape design
In landscaping and landscape design Kobeya is used to decorate vertical and horizontal surfaces of walls, fences, as well as pergolas, gazebos and arches. She attracts attention with her decorative look, abundant flowering, excellent tolerance to sun and heat, as well as the speed and power of growth and development. This plant is perfect for creating “green curtains” in cafes, terraces, loggias and balconies, as it can be grown in portable containers and large vases on wheels.
Kobeya climbing in a bouquet
It can be combined with these climbing plants and vines such as campsis, clematis, honeysuckle honeysuckle, hops, actinidia, climbing roses or luxurious ones that require a lot of effort in our climate. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the growth and development rates of these plants and kobei.
For example, hops and campsis are not inferior in growth rate and aggressiveness, so they can be planted next to kobeya at a distance of two to three meters. You should not let the shoots of these plants entwine each other, since in the fall it will be very difficult to remove the branches of kobei from the prickly trunks of hops or lignified shoots of campsis.
Remember that campsis and hops have strong branches that are rigidly attached to supports. They can rise up to 4 meters or more. And removing kobe shoots from hops and campsis at such a height is very labor-intensive and dangerous work.
Wisteria, clematis, actinidia, honeysuckle honeysuckle and climbing roses (ramblers, climbers, climbers) are inferior in speed, power and aggressiveness. These climbing crops are planted at a distance of about three meters from the kobei.
And throughout the entire growing season, you need to ensure that this tropical crop does not use its landscaping neighbors as a support, and does not choke or shade them. If kobei shoots begin to entwine the branches and trunks of other plants, they must be carefully removed.
This plant can also be used to create various “living” shapes and figures, which are made from metal mesh or wire. Kobeya is planted at the very base of this figure and the shoots are attached to a mesh or wire. Subsequently, the shoots of the plant are distributed evenly throughout the entire shape or figure.
