When hearing the word “clematis,” the hearts of most gardeners clench with delight. And not only because with their beauty, diversity and duration of flowering they give the garden a special charm, but also because growing these “garden butterflies” and caring for them is far from the easiest task. This means that this is a goal that is interesting to strive for. After all, the beauty of clematis, which pleases the eye all summer, is definitely worth all the effort. This article will talk about the nuances of pruning and proper cultivation clematis.
How to plant clematis correctly
There are two opposing opinions on this issue, and both of them are correct. Clematis can be planted either in early summer (when there is a 100% guarantee of no night frosts) or in early autumn (but no later than a month before the expected frost). Many people believe that the second method, which at first glance is more risky, allows flowers to take root much better in a new place.
- But in any case, the habitat of clematis should be light (but not under the scorching sun) and, most importantly, as protected from the wind as possible.
- Regarding the composition of the soil, these flowers prefer neutral, slightly acidic and alkaline. In any case, when planting a clematis sprout, you should make sure that the soil is truly nutritious for it. To do this, per one seedling, you need to stock up on: superphosphate (approximately 100 g), humus (1.5 buckets) and clay (as loose as possible).
- It is very important not to pass too close to the surface groundwater, because Clematis cannot tolerate waterlogging. If such a problem exists, then at the bottom of the hole dug for planting clematis, you need to pour a layer of drainage made of gravel or just broken bricks.
- When digging a hole, the severity of the soil should be taken into account. For a light one, a size of 50x50 cm will be sufficient, for a denser one - 70x70 cm. The severity of the soil also affects the degree to which the clematis seedling is buried; the denser the soil, the deeper it needs to be planted. On light soils it is 5-6 cm in the first year, on heavy soils it is 8-10 cm. After a year, the plant is deepened by about the same amount.
- The distance between planting holes should not be less than 70 cm.
- A young clematis seedling is very tender. Therefore, immediately after planting, it must be protected from direct sun, watered abundantly (to drain excess moisture you can make a circular hole) and provide support, without which the sprout can simply die, for example, from strong wind. Therefore, while the young clematis is gaining strength, it is regularly (about once every 3 days) tied to a support.
- The minimum height of such a support should not be less than 1.5 m. It is also important to take into account the aesthetic side of the issue, because a sufficient amount of time will pass before the support disappears under the branches of mature growth. Therefore, the structure must fit harmoniously into the garden from the very beginning.
Pruning clematis
- It is very important not to forget to trim the clematis shoots immediately after planting the sprout. This needs to be done in a radical way, leaving literally 2-3 buds from the bottom. The procedure must be repeated after a couple of weeks.
- In the autumn of the first year of life of clematis, it is pruned in such a way that the height of the shoot is no more than 30 cm. It is thanks to proper pruning that clematis develops a full-fledged root system, and this is the key to the fact that in one and a half to two years the plant will delight you with beautiful flowering.
- Of course, you can do without unnecessary complications, leaving the plant to develop the way it wants. But in this case, clematis is unlikely to become a decoration of the garden; rather, it will resemble a pretty, but very pesky weed, which grows chaotically, completely unpredictably and at the same time excessively quickly.
All of the above applies to absolutely all types of these beautiful flowers. In other words, planting and initial pruning are the same for all clematis. But in the future, caring for them differs in many ways, and primarily in the style of pruning, which clematis needs like no other plants. And that is why you need to know the types, subtleties and rules of this procedure.
Types of pruning clematis
It is precisely because of the need to constantly restrain the growth of clematis that these flowers are considered one of the most fastidious inhabitants of the garden. It is their correct pruning that often “falls asleep” not only for beginners, but also for fairly experienced gardeners. After all, even with a certain amount of knowledge, to one degree or another you have to use the trial and error method.
Yes, there is quite a lot of hassle with pruning clematis. But, on the other hand, if we decompose them into correct algorithm, then, after some time, this issue will not seem such an acute problem.
The first thing to consider is that pruning itself can be weak or strong, and can be divided into several types:
- winter or seasonal (as the name implies, it helps the plant survive the cold);
- formative (for proper development and good growth);
- sanitary (when during the summer there is a need to remove diseased and old shoots)
You should not unnecessarily involve any additional options besides those needed by a certain type of clematis. Better for the plant This will not do any good, although it can be very difficult to cause irreparable harm to it by improper pruning.
Groups of clematis by pruning
Due to the importance of pruning clematis, their species are usually divided into groups depending on it, as well as on what shoots they bloom on - last year’s or current ones and in what period the flowering occurs.
Clematis are usually divided into three large groups:
- first (or group A) - plants blooming in early spring on old shoots. This includes varieties such as Armandi, Alpina, Montana, Macropetal, Florida (flowery), Patens (spreading). In the same group are small-grained varieties of clematis, which have the reputation of being the most unpretentious;
- second (group B)- those that bloom in spring and summer. At the same time, spring flowering occurs on last year's shoots, and in July-August - on current shoots. These can be the following varieties: Lanuginosa, Florida, Patensa and woolly clematis;
- third (group C)- these clematis bloom only on shoots current year during the period July-September. They are most common in our region and are popular among novice gardeners. This includes: multi-leaved, oriental, hybrid clematis, Jacqueman, Texensis, Tangutika, Vititsela varieties.
Pruning clematis video
Definition of the clematis group
- To begin with, of course, you need to decide which group clematis belongs to. If planting is just planned, then resolving this issue is much easier, because On the packaging, as a rule, it is indicated which group a particular variety belongs to.
- The group of clematis already present in the garden is most often determined by their flowering period (discussed above).
- It is necessary to take into account the characteristics of a particular group not only for the sake of implementing correct pruning, but also so that the plants look harmonious in the garden next to other flowers and shrubs.
Pruning clematis by group
- It is believed that first group of clematis does not require formation at all. Although this is not entirely true. They do not require heavy pruning for the winter. It is enough to simply remove the shoots that have not ripened over the summer, and trim the rest to a height of 1-1.5 meters and cover them. But during the summer, plants of the first group will need formative pruning, because... they grow quickly.
Clematis pruning photo
- Second group requires light pruning, which is carried out as follows. The first year - at the level of 30 cm, which will promote growth and branching, and starting from the 2nd year - according to a certain pattern:
- The first pruning of the season should be done after flowering (around June), cutting off the shoots along with the fruit. As a result, the second flowering should be no less beautiful and lush. If this is not done, then clematis, which has given all its strength in the spring, by autumn, on new shoots, may not bloom at all;
- after the end of the second flowering, pruning is carried out more radically, leaving no more than 1 m from the ground (and in some cases even 50 cm);
- and of course, the plant must be carefully covered for the winter.
- An important point in caring for clematis of group 2 is that once every five years they need to be heavily pruned for the winter. Yes, as a result, you shouldn’t expect a lot summer bloom, but then the bush will delight you for the next years without any problems. If this is not done, then its base will begin to become bare, and its branching will noticeably decrease.
- Clematis of the third group, as already mentioned, can be called the most popular among their brothers, because. they grow very quickly and have bright and large flowers. Although they require severe pruning, this process is much less troublesome than that of group 2 clematis. Pruning is carried out once a year in the fall to a height of approximately 30 cm (a range from 20 to 50 cm is acceptable), the main thing is to leave 2-3 pairs of buds and carefully wrap the bushes.
The duration of flowering of any clematis in summer can be adjusted by light pruning. Simply put, if you shorten the strongest shoots, the flowers will appear on them later, which means the flowering period will be extended.
Caring for clematis in summer
- Do not think that clematis are considered such picky plants only because they need to be pruned frequently. They also require attention in terms of watering, because... do not tolerate drought well. Even with normal weather conditions in summer 2-3 buckets of water 1-2 times a week for a medium bush is the norm.
- In addition, in order for moisture to be distributed correctly near the plant, the ground around it must be mulched, preferably with rotted sawdust, peat or humus.
- They love clematis and various fertilizers. The easiest way is to use wood ash, approximately one glass per bush. Mullein is also excellent (mix manure with water in a ratio of 1:10). If you set out to feed a plant with mineral fertilizer, then you must follow the following proportion: for 2 m2 of soil, take a solution of 30 grams of fertilizer per 10 liters of water.
- It is necessary to treat clematis with any fertilizers quite often in the summer - once every 7-10 days.
- In the spring, having freed it from shelter after frost, it should be fed with nitrogen fertilizer, and acidic soil- lime milk.
Preparing clematis for winter
How clematis will survive the cold is no less important than how it will accept pruning. After all, this plant is a southern guest in our area, although it is already quite adapted to it.
- So, after the final autumn pruning, any variety of clematis requires shelter, be it a 15-centimeter sprout or a meter-long vine. For shelter, use almost everything possible: spruce paws, dry leaves, sawdust, peat ( required condition- it must be weathered), manure (rotted), light boards.
- The main thing is not to overdo it in an effort to protect clematis from the cold and not to wrap it too tightly. In this case, lack of ventilation can lead to disastrous results.
- It is necessary to pour a layer of earth on all layers of improvised insulation, and when snow falls, add it on top.
- If everything is done correctly, clematis will perfectly withstand any natural disasters.
Clematis in the garden
- Guided by all of the above, in a few years (in the first year it is better to pick off single flowers) you can grow not just a beautiful bush, but a real decorative decoration garden with dozens of shoots and hundreds the most beautiful flowers bright colors, some of which can reach 20 cm in diameter.
- Climbing varieties of clematis, clinging to supports, can rise several meters in height. Such types irreplaceable helpers in decorating gazebos, walls and any vertical structures.
- Bushes, the height of which does not exceed 1 meter, also play a certain role. Moreover, she is often the leader. Many agree that clematis in the garden sometimes even outshine the queen of flowers, the rose, with their beauty.
I cover clematis in late autumn (late October - early November) with the onset of stable frosts, but always in dry weather.
All the plants are planted deep, so I don’t have to build any complex structures. P
The first thing I do is add leaf humus under all the bushes to make a low mound (10 cm). Then I begin to remove the vines from the supports and trim them.
Clematis pruning!
Pruning clematis before sheltering for the winter has special meaning. All types and varieties, depending on which shoots the flower buds are formed on, are conventionally divided into three groups of clematis. It is recommended to deal with each of them differently:
- Do not trim at all or remove only unripe parts of the shoots. In our climate, this is done with frost-resistant varieties;
- Trim lightly (at 1/2-1/3 of the height, leaving 1 m or 1.5 m from the ground), if they bloom first on the shoots of the previous year, and then on the current year;
- Trim at the root if flower buds appear on shoots that grow in spring.
- Prince (first pruning group) is not pruned for the winter
On a note
In order for clematis to tolerate winter well, when planting, it is important to deepen its root collar (the place where the roots grow) by at least 10-12 cm. However, as experience shows, at first such planting can somewhat slow down the development of the plant. To prevent this from happening, a small depression is left around the bush, which is filled with earth as the clematis grows. The root collar eventually reaches the desired depth, but the development plants are coming faster.
I don’t cut the princelings and Tangut clematis (the first group) or remove them from their support; they overwinter just fine anyway.
Varieties that bloom on the shoots of the current year (third group) - Ville de Lyon, Etoile Violette, Prince Charles, Blue Angel, Ernest Markham etc., - I cut it very short: above the second - third pair of buds from the ground (to a height of 20-50 cm). To prevent mice from damaging the shoots, I throw several spruce paws onto the bush, and then cover it with the same vine. I put a couple of thick, gnarled branches on top, otherwise it might be blown away by the wind.
Important
It is best to remove clematis lashes from supports, lay them and cover them for the winter on frozen ground in dry weather. Damp clematis lashes may begin to rot under insulation.
Two whole-leaved clematis (princeling) and an erect one, having herbaceous dying shoots, are cut to zero. They overwinter successfully, sprinkled only leaf humus.
Read also: Clematis and roses - growing together
Clematis in winter
Varieties that begin to bloom early (their first flowers bloom on last year's shoots, and then again on the current year's shoots : Multi Blue, Crystal Fountain, Hania, Jan Pawel 2, Piilu, Blue Light), I prune in combination. In my opinion, it is better not to overload them with spring flowering.
Therefore, for each bush I leave no more than 3-5 shoots with a height of 70 to 150 cm, this is quite enough for May joy. I cut off the remaining stems, as with clematis blooming on the shoots of the current year: above the second or third pair of buds from the ground. Long vines will overwinter well, which means they will bloom early; no, flowering will begin in August on new ones.
Before I prune these clematis, I usually look at the buds. If there are large leaves in the axils, then it makes sense to leave long meter-long shoots. Usually this does not happen in young plants, so the stems should be cut shorter.
To cover, I place the shoots on dry ground.
You can place a cut vine or spruce branches under them.
I roll the longest ones into a ring, not particularly worrying that the bark may crack, and completely cover them. light leafy humus or garden soil. IN last years I tried another option: I lay the shoots lengthwise, with a few gnarled branches on top of them (you can use a low plastic fruit box, the main thing is that there is an air gap).
And then I throw on Lutrasil.
It needs to be secured with pebbles to prevent it from being torn off by the wind. I tried to cover it with sand and ash, but I didn’t like it: the sand becomes heavy in the spring, and the clematis don’t wake up for a long time.
For this reason, sawdust did not fit either. If there is ash, it is better to simply add it as a top dressing under the humus.
I do not treat my clematis with fungicides.
Meanwhile, when dealing with clematis of the second pruning group, you need to keep in mind that they cannot be cut with the same comb.
For many, wintering depends on the characteristics of the variety, and they are mainly hybrids. Therefore, some clematis can simply overwinter under lutrasil, but some will have to be tinkered with, since even a securely covered vine sometimes dies.
Among the clematis of the second group, there are many that bloom weakly on overwintered shoots and profusely on vines that have grown this year ( ‘Mrs Cholmondeley’, ‘Wester platte’, ‘Blue Light’, ‘Madame Le Coultre’, ‘Doctor Ruppel’). If in these varieties I do not observe large buds in the axils of the leaves in the fall, then I cut off all the shoots, as in clematis of the third group. In this case, they winter well and bloom in July. Their flowers will no longer be semi-double, but will remain the same large, and vigorous flowering will continue until frost.
Keep in mind
Using cut vines to cover the clematis, remove the faded inflorescences. Fluffy fruits serve as an excellent bait for mice. To protect against rodents, you can put spruce paws or “dognip” - ivy budra.
In the photo above, clematis Pillu is the second pruning group.
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Garden and cottage › Flowers - planting and care › Pruning clematis in autumn
Pruning clematis step by step instructions
When hearing the word “clematis,” the hearts of most gardeners clench with delight. And not only because with their beauty, diversity and duration of flowering they give the garden a special charm, but also because growing these “garden butterflies” and caring for them is far from the easiest task. This means that this is a goal that is interesting to strive for. After all, the beauty of clematis, which pleases the eye all summer, is definitely worth all the effort. The article will discuss the nuances of pruning and the proper cultivation of clematis.
- Definition of the clematis group
How to plant clematis correctly
There are two opposing opinions on this issue, and both of them are correct. Clematis can be planted either in early summer (when there is a 100% guarantee of no night frosts) or in early autumn (but no later than a month before the expected frost). Many people believe that the second method, which at first glance is more risky, allows flowers to take root much better in a new place.
- But in any case, the habitat of clematis should be light (but not under the scorching sun) and, most importantly, protected from the wind as much as possible.
- Regarding the composition of the soil, these flowers prefer neutral, slightly acidic and alkaline. In any case, when planting a clematis sprout, you should make sure that the soil is truly nutritious for it. To do this, per one seedling, you need to stock up on: superphosphate (approximately 100 g), humus (1.5 buckets) and clay (as loose as possible).
- It is very important that groundwater does not pass too close to the surface, since clematis cannot tolerate waterlogging. If such a problem exists, then at the bottom of the hole dug for planting clematis, you need to pour a layer of drainage made of gravel or just broken bricks.
- When digging a hole, the severity of the soil should be taken into account. For a light one, a size of 50x50 cm will be sufficient, for a denser one - 70x70 cm. The severity of the soil also affects the degree to which the clematis seedling is buried; the denser the soil, the deeper it needs to be planted. On light soils it is 5-6 cm in the first year, on heavy soils it is 8-10 cm. After a year, the plant is deepened by about the same amount.
- The distance between planting holes should not be less than 70 cm.
- A young clematis seedling is very tender. Therefore, immediately after planting, it needs to be protected from direct sun, watered abundantly (you can make a circular hole to remove excess moisture) and provide support, without which the sprout can simply die, for example, from a strong wind. Therefore, while the young clematis is gaining strength, it is regularly (about once every 3 days) tied to a support.
- The minimum height of such a support should not be less than 1.5 m. It is also important to take into account the aesthetic side of the issue, because a sufficient amount of time will pass before the support disappears under the branches of mature growth. Therefore, the structure must fit harmoniously into the garden from the very beginning.
Pruning clematis
- It is very important not to forget to trim the clematis shoots immediately after planting the sprout. This needs to be done in a radical way, leaving literally 2-3 buds from the bottom. The procedure must be repeated after a couple of weeks.
- In the autumn of the first year of life of clematis, it is pruned in such a way that the height of the shoot is no more than 30 cm. It is thanks to proper pruning that clematis develops a full-fledged root system, and this is the key to the fact that in one and a half to two years the plant will delight you with beautiful flowering.
- Of course, you can do without unnecessary complications, leaving the plant to develop the way it wants. But in this case, clematis is unlikely to become a decoration of the garden; rather, it will resemble a cute, but very annoying weed that grows chaotically, completely unpredictably and at the same time excessively quickly.
All of the above applies to absolutely all types of these beautiful flowers. In other words, planting and initial pruning are the same for all clematis. But in the future, caring for them differs in many ways, and primarily in the style of pruning, which clematis needs like no other plants. And that is why you need to know the types, subtleties and rules of this procedure.
Types of pruning clematis
It is precisely because of the need to constantly restrain the growth of clematis that these flowers are considered one of the most fastidious inhabitants of the garden. It is their correct pruning that often “falls asleep” not only for beginners, but also for fairly experienced gardeners. After all, even with a certain amount of knowledge, to one degree or another you have to use the trial and error method.
Yes, there is quite a lot of hassle with pruning clematis. But, on the other hand, if you put them into the correct algorithm, then, after some time, this issue will not seem such an acute problem.
The first thing to consider is that pruning itself can be weak or strong, and can be divided into several types:
- Winter or seasonal (as the name implies, it helps the plant survive the cold);
- Formative (for proper development and good growth);
- Sanitary (when during the summer there is a need to remove diseased and old shoots)
You should not unnecessarily involve any additional options besides those needed by a certain type of clematis. This will not make the plant any better, although it can be very difficult to cause irreparable harm to it by improper pruning.
Groups of clematis by pruning
Due to the importance of pruning clematis, their species are usually divided into groups depending on it, as well as on what shoots they bloom on - last year’s or current ones and in what period the flowering occurs.
Clematis are usually divided into three large groups:
- First (or group A) - plants blooming in early spring on old shoots. This includes varieties such as Armandi, Alpina, Montana, Macropetal, Florida (flowery), Patens (spreading). In the same group are small-grained varieties of clematis, which have the reputation of being the most unpretentious;
- Second (group B)- those that bloom in spring and summer. At the same time, spring flowering occurs on last year's shoots, and in July-August - on current shoots. These can be the following varieties: Lanuginosa, Florida, Patensa and woolly clematis;
- Third (group C)- these clematis bloom only on the shoots of the current year in the period July-September. They are most common in our region and are popular among novice gardeners. This includes: multi-leaved, oriental, hybrid clematis, Jacqueman, Texensis, Tangutika, Vititsela varieties.
Pruning clematis video
Definition of the clematis group
- To begin with, of course, you need to decide which group clematis belongs to. If planting is just planned, then it is much easier to solve this issue, since the packaging, as a rule, indicates which group a particular variety belongs to.
- The group of clematis already present in the garden is most often determined by their flowering period (discussed above).
- It is necessary to take into account the characteristics of a particular group not only for the sake of correct pruning, but also so that the plants look harmonious in the garden next to other flowers and shrubs.
Pruning clematis by group
- It is believed that First group of clematis does not require formation at all. Although this is not entirely true. They do not require heavy pruning for the winter. It is enough to simply remove the shoots that have not ripened over the summer, and trim the rest to a height of 1-1.5 meters and cover them. But during the summer, plants of the first group will need formative pruning, as they grow quickly.
Clematis pruning photo
- Second group requires light pruning, which is carried out as follows. The first year - at the level of 30 cm, which will promote growth and branching, and starting from the 2nd year - according to a certain pattern:
- The first pruning of the season should be done after flowering (around June), cutting off the shoots along with the fruit. As a result, the second flowering should be no less beautiful and lush. If this is not done, then clematis, which has given all its strength in the spring, by autumn, on new shoots, may not bloom at all;
- After the end of the second flowering, pruning is carried out more radically, leaving no more than 1 m from the ground (and in some cases, 50 cm);
- And of course, the plant must be carefully covered for the winter.
Clematis pruning groups how to prune clematis 1 2 and 3 groups
First trim
Clematis pruning groups
Clematis 3 pruning groups
Clematis 2 pruning groups
Clematis 1 pruning group
Combined pruning of clematis
Pruning clematis plays quite an important role in agricultural technology for crop care. Throughout the season, you will have to resort more than once to the sanitary removal of all broken and damaged shoots, and in the fall you need to find time to do the most important pruning, which is a decisive factor in regulating the growth of the plant and, in addition, affects the its flowering.
At the same time, every gardener who has ever encountered this crop knows that there are three different groups of clematis pruning and each of them is important in its own way. However, in the first year of the growing season, pruning for all clematis is carried out absolutely the same way, and only starting from the second year of the crop’s life, gardeners begin to take into account the breakdown into certain groups.
First trim
As for the first pruning, it is carried out, so to speak, radically, namely to the first bud above ground level. At the same time, such a “trick” will help stimulate the development of new and “dormant” basal buds in the next year. The need for a second such severe pruning arises quite rarely, if in the second year of life the seedling still remains rather weak in development. In all other cases, you need to start solely from some features of pruning clematis. So, what are these methods, what are their features and fundamental differences from each other? It’s worth understanding, but, of course, in order!
Clematis pruning groups
“Sorting” clematis into pruning groups is quite simple and is related to the shoots on which certain varieties form their flowers. So, let’s say, some plants simply won’t be able to bloom if you cut off the shoots with buds in the fall. For them, it is preferable to just shorten the branches slightly or prune them immediately after flowering, that is, from May to June. In general, it is quite fair to note that the flowering period can be determined by the pruning period. If you cannot immediately determine which clematis pleases you in the garden, take a closer look at it and orient yourself by the time of its flowering, which will help you “open all your cards.”
Clematis 3 pruning groups
The third group includes all representatives of the Vititsella and Jacqueline groups, that is, summer-flowering plants. Moreover, color is observed only on shoots formed this year. Therefore, and autumn pruning such plants are carried out thoroughly, when after the “procedure” only 2 - 3 nodes remain near the ground.
For the pruning process itself, you need to stock up on a fairly sharp pruning shears or a long knife, with which the shoots are cut so that the blade extends approximately 5 - 7 millimeters above the bud and, ultimately, their length from the surface of the ground is about 15 - 20 centimeters. There is no need to worry about the bush becoming too “bald”, since next year you will be able to see new buds on young shoots. It is especially important to thoroughly disinfect working tools before pruning each new bush.
Another feature that clematis of the 3rd pruning group have is the ease of constructing a shelter for the winter, because in this case you do not need to think about how to prune sensitive shoots until spring. This is probably why such plants have such an unprecedented distribution in all gardens and front gardens.
Clematis 2 pruning groups
This includes everything early plants, blooming in the summer - representatives of the Lanuginosa group, or simply woolly clematis, as well as certain varieties of the Florida and Patens groups. A feature of such plants is the formation of flowers, both on young and overwintered shoots. Moreover, the first buds are observed exclusively on “old” branches and only in last days In summer, flowering can also be observed on young shoots.
Pruning of such plants is usually done quite gently and best time Late autumn is the time for such a procedure. As for the height at which it is worth getting rid of “extra” shoots, here gardeners have somewhat different opinions - some recommend cutting branches at a level of 50 - 100 centimeters from the ground, while others simply insist that this figure vary from 100 - 150 centimeters. Here you will have to make the choice yourself and find the “optimal” shoot length for yourself. In any case, after pruning, all healthy lower and fully mature shoots must be carefully laid on the ground and covered well. If the clematis bush really needs rejuvenation, it is permissible to trim it a little more, but only to the first true leaf and no more. At the same time, you can completely get rid of all weak and dead shoots without hesitation.
The first pinching for representatives of the second pruning group (clematis Westerplatte, Ashwa, Piilu, Multi Blue) is carried out at a level of 20 - 30 centimeters from the ground. The second similar procedure is usually done after all shoots have grown at a height of 50 - 70 centimeters, and the last grafting should be done even higher - at 100 - 150 centimeters.
Clematis 1 pruning group
Representatives of the Patens and Florida groups, spreading and flowering, respectively, give color exclusively on overwintered shoots, and it is for this reason that autumn pruning should consist only of removing non-woody and weak shoots. The remaining branches are only slightly shortened, removing approximately one third of their length, leaving shoots no longer than 100 - 150 centimeters. After this, the lash should be slightly rolled up and laid on the ground, making a thorough covering.
At the same time, it is worth noting that Florida and Patens are quite capricious in winter, so it is quite important to wrap the plants well in order to prevent the possibility of flower buds freezing. Otherwise, the plants simply will no longer be able to please you with beautiful and very abundant flowering. Of course, there is a lot of hassle, but at the same time, you need to remember that only such varieties as President and others can surprise gardeners with beautiful, very large and often double flowers. So, as they say, there is an incentive!
Combined pruning of clematis
It should be noted that quite often gardeners can carry out combined pruning, which consists of severe pruning of bushes, which is carried out at 1 - 2 internodes from the ground. At the same time, all remaining shoots should be cut somewhat weaker - by about 10 - 12 nodes.
The advantage of such pruning is the onset of early flowering on last year's weakly pruned shoots, which is later observed on young branches. We will use this type of pruning exclusively for hybrid clematis, and the resulting ways of connecting plants with different pruning groups. In addition, using this “scheme” you can “cut” a seedling if you cannot determine its group for sure. The use of combined pruning on adult plants is the key to the gradual rejuvenation of their vines. For this purpose, shoots older than three years, immediately after the first flowering, are cut off quite heavily.
Regardless of what kind of clematis pleases your eye, you have absolutely no fear of pruning, since this procedure can in no way harm the plant, because even radical “haircuts” should be carried out at a certain interval. If you carried out such a procedure a little earlier, there is nothing wrong with that!
Clematis preparation for winter pruning shelter
Preparing clematis for winter includes two main and rather difficult activities for beginners.
Pruning is probably the most difficult and incomprehensible task for beginning clematis growers. But in fact, everything is simple here!
Clematis pruning
For the winter
It will, of course, be very good if you know which pruning group your clematis belongs to. But even if you don’t know, it doesn’t matter, now we’ll figure it out. Let's start from the beginning.
When to prune clematis for the winter. Depending on where you live, pruning is carried out either at the end of October or at the beginning of November. Try to make it while it's worth it good weather. This is quite a painstaking task and doing it in the rain will be extremely unpleasant.
| How to prune clematis in the first year after planting. In the first year of life, preparing plants for winter is quite simple. The first pruning is the same for all varieties of clematis. Leave a shoot 20 - 30 cm high (2 - 3 buds), and cut off the rest. Such short pruning will provoke the development of side shoots on next year. | |
| Pruning clematis of the first group. If clematis begins to bloom in the spring on old shoots from last year, then it belongs to the first group of pruning. Such plants can have long shoots up to two meters high. The tops of the shoots are mainly trimmed, adjusting the height of the bush to the size of the trellis. In addition, remove dry, broken and simply “extra” shoots. | |
| Pruning clematis of the second group. Clematis, which blooms twice a year, once on old and then on young shoots, belongs to the second group. Such plants are cut somewhat shorter. The shoots are left 1.2 - 1.5 m high. Dry, broken, etc. are also rejected. | |
| Pruning clematis of the third group. Clematis of this group bloom only on young shoots that grow in the spring. Therefore, we don’t need last year’s shoots. When pruning such plants for the winter, cut off all shoots at the level of 2 - 3 buds from the ground. | |
| Universal pruning. When preparing clematis for winter, you can also use combined pruning. Some gardeners use this pruning method for all varieties. Especially if they don’t know, and don’t want to know, which group the bushes growing in them belong to. In this case, the shoots are cut off, so to speak “every other”. One is left up to 1.5 m high, the other for 2 - 4 buds, etc. This method has its advantages. |
Of course, in the garden everything will not be as simple as shown in the pictures, but it will not be as complicated as it might seem at first.
Removing clematis from its support
It can be very difficult to remove an old, and even neglected, bush from its support. To make this task easier, in the spring you need to tie the shoots to the trellis on only one side. Under no circumstances should you weave shoots between the trellis rods. Over the summer they will grow and become entangled so that in the fall it will be impossible to remove them without breaking them.
In the photo below you see an old, overgrown clematis bush from the second pruning group.
This bush needs to be removed from its support.
A novice clematis grower's hair will probably stand on end at the thought that he will now have to untangle these thickets. It's actually simple.
The upper part of the plant can be used as a “pillow”.
We cut off all shoots at a height of 1.5 meters above the ground.
If you tied the vines to one side of the trellis in the spring, then no problems should arise.
We untie all the wires or strings that were used to tie the plant to the support rods.
Scissors are the main tool for this type of work.
Using scissors, we cut off all the leaves that the plant holds onto the twigs.
After the strings were removed and the leaves were trimmed, the plant easily separated from the trellis.
That's it, all this took no more than 20 minutes. Of course, in the spring we will still have to tinker here. Cut out all the broken vines, and just thin out the bush thoroughly. To do this, you will have to cut off all the leaves with scissors and distribute the best shoots evenly and beautifully on the trellis. But it will be in the spring...
Now you can move on to the next stage of preparing clematis for wintering.
How to cover clematis for the winter
You can cover clematis for the winter different ways. You just need to try to ensure that the shelter protects not only from cold, but also from dampness and is not excessive. Clematis is a completely frost-resistant plant and there is no need to insulate it beyond measure.
These plants are already ready for winter
First of all, you need to make sure that the clematis is not flooded with water during thaws. To do this, you should pour 1 - 2 buckets of humus or just soil under the bush so that a mound is formed and the roots will not get wet.
The shoots should not be laid on bare ground, but on some kind of “pillow”. Boards, branches, and cut shoots of the same clematis are usually used as a pillow. I most often pour pine needles for this purpose. All kinds of rodents like to spend the winter in dry places, but the needles are prickly and mice don’t like it. But in the spring the needles must be removed, they are very
Shelter scheme for clematis for the winter
It acidifies the soil, and clematis itself categorically does not like this.
For covering it is convenient to use lutrasil or any other covering material. Wrap the prepared, trimmed shoots with lutrasil, lay them on pine needles and cover them with leaves and spruce branches. All this on top must also be covered with pieces of slate.
All gardeners always have plenty on hand old film. I really want to use this film to cover wintering flowers. It can of course be used, but with some reservations.
Such shelters greatly simplify our task.
Preparing clematis for winter is greatly simplified when there are such shelters in the garden as in the photo. Of course, not everyone can do this, but these boxes solve many problems. For example, it is not recommended to cover clematis ahead of time, before frost. You can prepare everything in advance and just leave the lid ajar.
The shelter is ready for the winter, all that remains is to lower the lid.
I think you understand what you need to strive for.
Caring for clematis in winter
If you did everything correctly and on time in the fall, then caring for your plants in winter may not be necessary.
However, if the winter turns out to be frosty and with little snow, then throwing snow on the wintering bushes will not be superfluous. IN warm winter, during thaws, check whether the plants have been flooded with water. If this happens, then place boards under them, otherwise the shoots will then freeze into the ice.
In addition, there is always a danger that mice may live under the shelter. If signs of rodents appear, scatter poisoned bait. Mice are dangerous neighbors; they happily gnaw clematis shoots.
As you can see, caring for clematis in winter is not at all burdensome. You just need to prepare them well for the upcoming winter in the fall. And in winter you can relax, otherwise spring is just around the corner.
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Clematis are considered to be the absolute favorites of gardeners. Thanks to a wide range of colors, sizes and shapes of flowers, they can transform any area. Of all the diversity, there are 3 groups that differ in some nuances of care, in particular, the method of pruning. The last of them includes species and hybrid clematis, varieties and photos of which are presented in the article. Detailed description and characteristics, as well as reviews experienced flower growers will allow you to get more information about these plants.
Classification of clematis
Currently, about 300 species of clematis and more than 2000 varieties have been described. Some species are completely different from each other. Among them there are shrubs, subshrubs, and herbaceous perennials. However, in amateur gardens, liana-like plants are most widespread.
Several classifications of clematis are known, but the most convenient for amateurs is the distribution into pruning groups, namely:
- Group I - clematis, in which flower buds are formed only on last year’s shoots;
- Group II - clematis, capable of forming flower buds twice per season. The first time in May-June on the shoots of the past year, the second time at the end of summer on the regrown shoots of this year;
- Group III - clematis, in which flower buds are formed only on shoots that have grown again this year.
Each presented group, accordingly, requires different pruning.
- Clematis of group I need only periodic rejuvenation, when weak, dried or woody shoots are removed after flowering;
- In representatives of group II, after the first flowering, part of the old shoots is cut out along with the resulting infructescences. They are pruned a second time in the fall, leaving shoots 50-100 cm long.
- All shoots of group III clematis are almost completely cut out for the winter. Only 2-3 pairs of buds are left.
Attention! When purchasing clematis seedlings, be sure to clarify which pruning group it belongs to. young plant. Without determining group affiliation, you can greatly shorten those shoots that cannot be cut at all, or leave unnecessary ones. As a result, clematis will either not bloom at all, or its flowering will be very weak.
What varieties and species belong to group 3
Pruning group 3 includes most varieties of clematis found in gardens. These are branched vines with long (4-6 m) shoots and a strong root system.
Jacquemin's group. Quite large plants, reaching a height of 2-4 m depending on the variety. In a sunny place, the vine does not grow as long as in partial shade, but the flowering is much more abundant. The leaves of Jacquemman's clematis are complex, with 3-5 leaflets. Flowers open fully, may be various shades. Large in size - from 8 to 20 cm in diameter.
Varieties belonging to this group form buds only on new shoots of the current year. At the end of autumn they are heavily pruned. Popular varieties this group:
- Clematis Bella - has short shoots (up to 2 m) and star-shaped flowers white. Its flowering period is from July to September. Very winter hardy.
- Rouge Cardinal - the length of the shoots is the same as the previous variety. Petals of cross-shaped flowers are purple. Blooms in midsummer. It is better to cover it for the winter.
- Gipsy Queen is a vine up to 3.5 m, forming a massive bush. The bright purple petals practically do not fade in the sun.
Viticella Group- represented by varieties with purple flowers different color intensities. They can be either open or drooping. The diameter of the flowers is 10-20 cm. The shoots of this group grow very quickly and reach a length of 3-3.5 m. Some varieties of the group:
- Viola - the height of the bush reaches 2.5 m. The flowers are open. Their color is dark purple with purple veins.
- Ville de Lyon - shoots up to 3.5 m long. Carmine-red petals fade in the sun. Flowering is long and abundant. Each shoot can produce up to 15 buds.
Advice. For clematis, it is better to use a vertical mesh as a support. This way they will look like a living wall, strewn with flowers on both sides.
Integrifolia Group. This species is not able to cling to support on its own. The height of the bushes is about 2.5 m. The flowers are drooping, have the appearance of bells and a variety of colors. Clematis Durana is considered one of the most beautiful in this group. A rapidly growing shrub with simple, ovate leaves. The flowers, most often consisting of 4 petals, are open, drooping, and medium-sized. The color of the petals is deep purple, the anthers are yellow.
Tangutika Group- a very tall, 3-4 m vine, covered with orange-yellow, small (3-10 cm in diameter) drooping flowers that look like physalis. Prefers bright lighting. Blooms from June to September.
Texensis Group- one of the most beautiful clematis. The flowers, consisting of 4 petals, have the shape of a jug and do not open completely. Color range - red, pink, purple.
Eastern clematis- a very long vine (4-6 m). In July-August it is covered with yellow, pubescent flowers consisting of 4 petals. Shaggy, decorative fruits become a wonderful garden decoration in the fall.
Reviews from fans
Flower growers speak of group 3 as very beautiful clematis, resistant to diseases and adverse weather. It is recommended to sow low annuals around the base of the vine, which will provide shade. root zone and will not allow the plant to suffer during hot periods.
Clematis can be called the most beautiful of the representatives of the buttercup family. Each of its types can become the main accent of the garden. And you shouldn’t be afraid of difficulties in growing at all. The main thing is to figure out which group the plant belongs to and provide it with proper care.
Pruning clematis: video
To be honest, there is a lot of trouble with clematis, especially wintering. Before sheltering for the winter, vines must first be trimmed. But pruning for different types of clematis differs from each other both in timing and in form. Let's look at the clematis pruning groups and learn how to determine which one your clematis (another name for the flower) belongs to.
Clematis before pruningIts shoots grow quickly and chaotically in any direction. They are unpredictable. Of course, you can guide them by tying them and supporting them with supports. But when it comes down to it, clematis decides where and how it will grow.
It's even worse with pruning. Here it is imperative to know which pruning group your clematis belongs to.
If you choose the wrong group, you can greatly shorten those that absolutely cannot be trimmed.
Conversely, some species simply require complete pruning, almost to the root, in order to regrow in the spring and bloom as profusely as you would not achieve without pruning.
Clematis after pruning And all because different types Clematis flowers bloom either on the shoots of the current year or on the shoots of the previous year.
Therefore, they were divided into 3 groups:
- No pruning required.
- Weak pruning.
- Heavy pruning.
Pruning group 1: clematis, blooming in early spring
These are clematis that do not require pruning.
They bloom on old shoots and only in spring.
Don't take "don't cut" literally. Or rather, this type of clematis cannot be pruned in autumn or spring. At this time they gain strength for flowering in early spring. But in July, after flowering, you can carry out rejuvenating pruning by removing weak and dead branches, as well as non-lignified shoots.
This type includes the following types:
- alpina group,
- armandi group,
- cirrhosa group,
- Montana group,
- macropetal family.
Pruning group 2: clematis, blooming twice - in spring and summer
These are clematis that require light pruning.
Flowering of this group usually occurs twice: in May-June on last year's shoots, and in July-August on the current year's shoots.
As soon as the first flowering has ended, new shoots begin to grow, which no longer bloom so abundantly and brightly. This is because the plant devoted all its energy to the first flowering and the formation of seed pods. Plus strength for new shoots, for the formation of new buds...
Therefore, immediately after the first flowering, usually in June, part of the old shoot is cut off along with the fruit. This will allow you to get a second flowering as abundant as the first.
And the second time they cut off all the shoots almost by half, leaving a bush 50-100 cm high from the ground. This can be done in the fall after flowering has passed on this year's shoots.
For the winter, it is better to cover the bush thoroughly.
Once every four to five years, the plant is heavily pruned. After it, of course, you will not receive the next year abundant flowering. But this will prevent the base from being exposed and increase bushiness.
The following types of clematis belong to this type:
- lanuginosis group,
- florida group,
- some varieties of the patens group.
Pruning group 3: clematis, blooming from July to mid-September
This is a group that requires heavy pruning.
Most types of clematis belong to this type.
These are varieties that bloom on strong shoots of the current year, which grow very quickly and have large, bright flowers.
If the plant is not pruned, the shoots weaken, become thinner and their flowering is rare, small and not so bright.
Pruning here is very simple - in the fall you need to trim the entire plant, leaving shoots up to 20-50 cm long above the ground, leaving two or three pairs of buds.
Small bushes also require shelter for the winter, especially since this is much easier to do with clematis of this group. That is why they are most widespread among us.
The following groups of clematis fall under this type of pruning:
- jacman group,
- viticela group,
- clematis varifolia,
- Tangutik group,
- texensis group,
- clematis orientalis,
- hybrid clematis.
If you do not know which group of clematis your species belongs to, focus on the flowering period.
In any case, don’t worry too much - all types and varieties can easily withstand heavy pruning, even if for some reason you didn’t guess the group. Just make a reliable shelter for the winter and don’t expect your pets to bloom in summer and autumn. But in a year you will get more lush and strong flowering. Now you will know exactly which pruning group your clematis belong to and how to treat them.
Perfect for this purpose!
There are many varieties of clematis on the market to suit every taste. Among them there are both truly unpretentious and complex, capricious varieties.
In an effort not to make a mistake in choosing varieties for your garden, it is better to go to trusted sellers - so as not to run into a stupid one or simply unsuitable for your climate zone variety.
Planting and caring for clematis
It is advisable to plant clematis immediately permanent place, since in the new location they will be building up for several years root system to the detriment of the growth of the above-ground part and flowering.
During the growing season it is uncomplicated.
Feeding clematis is mandatory - they love both nitrogen and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. Therefore, it is more convenient to use complex floral flowers for clematis. mineral fertilizers throughout the season.
Watering clematis in the absence of rain is done moderately, but in drought it is necessary.
Clematis are divided into three groups depending on the characteristics of pruning shoots. Whether or not they need winter shelter depends on this.
Let's look at all three groups of clematis.
The first group of clematis depending on the pruning of shoots
1st group of clematis - completely without pruning.
The first group of clematis includes botanical species, as well as some complex clematis hybrids.
I have not yet come across clematis hybrids of the first group (so I don’t know if they winter here). But botanical clematis winter well at the latitude of the Moscow region without any shelter at all. I think that even further north they also winter well without any gardener’s worries!
Since they bloom on mature shoots, clematis of the first group are pruned only for sanitary and aesthetic purposes - to give it the desired shape.
All botanical clematis and princelings bloom in late spring and early summer. Their flowers are not large; as a rule, they are bell-shaped. Flowering lasts an average of 3 weeks; on adult bushes it is very abundant. After flowering, clematis bushes are decorated with fluffy fruit.
Clematis climb up the support on their own, clinging to leaf cuttings. They grow quickly, so good permanent support must be taken care of immediately when planting such clematis.
Botanical clematis, princelings love to grow in the sun. But they can also withstand partial shade. They can climb natural supports (trees, bushes). But I would not advise planting botanical clematis in close proximity to garden bushes and trees, since they quickly rise to the very top of the tree support and begin to bloom only in the upper part of the vine, where there is more sun. So, as a result, the sun will see the clematis bloom, but the owner of the garden is unlikely... This is exactly what happened to me...
Beginners can easily purchase clematis seedlings of the first group, but on condition: if you are ready to immediately provide them with a permanent place with good, long-lasting support.
In the photo: unedged prince of the Maidwell Hall variety from the first group; clematis variety “I am Lady” (clematis viticella “I am Lady”) from the third group, heavy pruning
The second group of clematis depending on the pruning of shoots
2nd group of clematis - lightly pruned.
The second group of clematis includes a huge variety of varieties of various colors. Basically, their flowers are large, often double.
IN middle lane Covering clematis of the second pruning group for the winter is mandatory.
For successful flowering, clematis of the second group need to retain a significant part of last year's shoots.
In our latitude, before sheltering for the winter, clematis shoots of the second group are cut at least 50 cm from the ground (or better yet, much higher), then they are laid on the ground and covered.
In the title photo: clematis variety “Andromeda”, pruning group 2 (weak).
In the description of clematis varieties of the second group, the phrase is always found: “blooming on old shoots in early summer, then re-blooming on new shoots.”
However, in the Moscow region, not all varieties can wait until the second flowering of these clematis. And some varieties are reluctant to bloom even the first time. Therefore, when purchasing clematis of the second group for a garden near Moscow or for regions with a similar climate, keep this in mind. Don't focus on beautiful pictures, and for reviews experienced gardeners about the variety you are interested in.
Often the most unpretentious varieties belonging to this group are labeled as clematis 2-3 pruning groups. That is, such clematis readily blooms on both old shoots and new ones. And if you cut it almost at the root, like clematis of the third group, then it will still delight you with abundant flowering.
All clematis of the second pruning group climb up the support themselves, clinging to leaf petioles. When installing a support for these varieties, it should be taken into account that it will be necessary to provide shelter for the winter, and then the support should not contain small cells.
Sometimes, as a support for such clematis, they use a tree stretched between pillars. plastic mesh(when several clematis are planted in a row), which is removed from support pillars together with clematis shoots and laid on the ground, and in the spring the net with clematis is lifted and put back in place.
Beginner gardeners from the southern regions can purchase clematis of the second group with virtually no reservations, while northerners are better off purchasing the most unpretentious and winter-hardy varieties in this group.
The third group of clematis depending on pruning of shoots
3rd group of clematis - heavily or fully pruned.
Clematis of the third group are very unpretentious; they bloom readily and abundantly on the shoots of the current year. The range of colors and shapes of their flowers is very diverse; The flowers are usually medium or small in size.
The third group includes several types of independently climbing clematis, as well as non-climbing herbaceous species of clematis, the shoots of which never overwinter - they are completely cut off at ground level in the fall.
You can deal with heavily pruned clematis of the third group in different ways. The standard recommended pruning is 2-3 knots from the ground. You can leave more nodes on the vine: in this case, flowering will be more abundant, the bush will become wider, but smaller flowers will form.
You can also cut them at the root: this will reduce the width of the bush, but large flowers will form.
Sheltering for the winter is mandatory for all young clematis seedlings of the third group - these are seedlings of the 1st and 2nd year of planting. Over the years favorable winters It is quite possible to refuse to cover heavily pruned and herbaceous clematis for the winter - where in winter there is always a lot of snow, covering the base of the bush to a height of at least 20-25 cm. However, in regions with little snow but frosty winters, it is recommended to cover even adult clematis bushes (either with spunbond or spud with peat to a height of 25 cm).
For adult bushes of herbaceous clematis, the covering layer of peat is 10-15 cm.
Beginner gardeners can purchase clematis of the third group without fear. The main thing is to understand what variety it is: climbing or erect clematis. After all, its purpose, the shape of the support and the features of further care for clematis depend on this.
There are about fifty varieties of clematis growing in our garden, and this collection is constantly growing.
In the Moscow region climate, clematis grow well provided that some basic rules are observed. simple rules:
- plant clematis in a dry place without spring stagnation of water;
- regularly feed clematis vines with organic matter and;
- 2nd group of pruning (and for clematis of the 3rd group, cover the roots in the fall), using any covering material. For example, we use Agrospan-60 for this purpose.
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