Over time, manual watering of a plot turns into a burdensome task that you want to do less and less. Automatic or automated irrigation will help solve the problem. You can handle the design of the system and installation of all its components on your own. How? Read on.
Choosing a water supply source
We provide instructions for installing two irrigation systems: a large-scale automatic one using a programmable controller and a modest non-automated one based on a barrel.
Before proceeding with the arrangement of any of the two systems under consideration, you need to select a water source and pumping equipment suitable for a particular situation. Water can be taken from:
Find out which one to choose, and also consider the types and installation process in our article.
Electric water pump prices
Electric water pumps
Table. Pump Malysh, used for pumping water from open reservoirs, wells and wells. Characteristics
| Pump Baby, characteristics | Indicators |
|---|---|
| Pump type | Household vibrating submersible |
| Current consumption | 3 A |
| Power | 165 W |
| Water intake | Lower |
| Pressure | 40 m |
| Performance | 432 l/min |
| Length of cable | 10-40 m |
| Continuous operation | No more than 12 hours at a time |
| The need to turn off the power for 15-20 minutes | Every 2 hours |
| Connection | To flexible hose |
We do full automatic watering
Drawing a plan
Let's start by drawing up a site plan. On a scale, we will mark on it the main elements of our estate: house, veranda, entrance, outdoor stove, etc. - this way we can determine the permissible area of action of sprinklers.
On the diagram we mark the water intake point. If there are several water sources and they are located in different places on the site, we select a tap located approximately in the middle. In such a situation, we will be able to provide approximately equal lengths of irrigation lines
Choosing an irrigation method
In the example under consideration, the system is set up to water a large lawn and several beds, as well as an area with bushes and trees. You can adjust the layout taking into account the characteristics of your site.
We will water the part with the lawn and flower beds using retractable sprinklers. When turned on, they rise above the surface, and after watering is completed, they lower and become almost invisible.
For the second part of our plot, this irrigation option is not suitable: the plantings are too high, and the width of the plot is small.
Important note! It is not recommended to use sprinklers to water areas less than 2 m wide. Such devices have too large a range, which can cause a number of inconveniences.
To water this part of the plantings, we install a drip line. It is a pipe of the required length with holes arranged along its entire length. Such a pipe can be buried or simply laid between the beds.
Prices for guns, nozzles, hose sprinklers
Guns, nozzles, hose sprinklers
We draw up an irrigation scheme
We mark on the plan of our site the installation points of sprinklers and the radii of their coverage. We adhere to this design order:
- We install sprinklers at the corners of the site for watering at 90 degrees;
- along the borders of the territory we install devices that irrigate the space 180 degrees around;
- in the corners of the site near various buildings and structures we install sprinklers at 270 degrees;
- We install devices that water 360 degrees throughout the area.
We select the number of sprinklers so that the coverage radii of devices installed nearby intersect. With this arrangement of devices, not a single plant will be deprived of moisture. However, this method is only relevant for large areas that have the correct shape.
In our example, the area of the plot is relatively small, but it has a narrow strip along the residential building. Therefore, we draw up the project in the following order:
- First, we mark the installation locations of sprinklers that have the greatest radius of action. We will use them to water the main part of the garden;
- on the narrow side of the site we mark places for sprinklers with a more modest irrigation radius;
- In places where sprinklers cannot reach, we plan to lay a drip line.
Important! Double check the project. Make sure all plantings will receive water.
We check the water intake for throughput
A ready-made plan allows us to install the required number of sprinklers. However, before installing the system, we must find out whether the productivity of the water supply source is sufficient to effectively service the system being installed. We do it this way:
Now we determine whether the water intake can ensure the simultaneous operation of all planned irrigation lines. The need for sprinklers remains the same and is determined in accordance with their coverage area. In our example we set:
- 180 degree devices with a coverage area of up to 200 m2 - 2 pieces. The water requirement of each device is 12, for a total of 24;
- 270 degree sprinklers with a coverage area of up to 200 m2 – 2 pieces. Each person's need is 14, for a total of 28;
- 180 degree device with coverage up to 50 m2 – 1 piece. Need – 7;
- 270 degree device with coverage up to 50 m 2 – 1. Requirement – 9;
- 90 degree sprinkler with a coverage area of up to 50 m2 – 1. Water requirement – 6.
In total, the water requirement of our irrigation devices is 74. The water intake is only capable of delivering 60. It will not be possible to connect all devices to one line for simultaneous use. To solve the problem, we make two lines of sprinklers. One will be used to service large devices, the other for small ones.
For drip irrigation we make a third line. It requires individual management, because The main lines are turned on for about half an hour every day, while the drip lines should work for at least 40-50 minutes, depending on the characteristics of the soil and the needs of the plantings.
The drip line and sprinklers cannot be connected to a common line. With such a system arrangement, either the area served by sprinklers will be watered too abundantly, or the area with drip irrigation will not be able to receive liquid in sufficient volume.
We automate the system
To regulate the operation of the system, we install a programmable controller. Using this device we can set the time to turn on and off the irrigation. To protect the device, it is recommended to install it indoors, for example, in the basement.
Near the water supply tap we install an inlet column for connecting the system, as well as a special installation box for placing shut-off valves according to the number of irrigation lines. We have 3 of them. We connect each valve to the controller using a two-wire cable. We divert one irrigation line from the valves. Such arrangement of the system will allow it to be programmed to turn on each irrigation line separately.
We arranged the lines as follows:
- one was allocated to power large sprinklers. For the manufacture of the line itself, 19 mm pipes were used, for branches to the sprinklers - pipes of 16 mm diameter;
- the second was used on small sprinklers serving an area of up to 50 m2. The pipes used were similar;
- the third line was allocated for drip irrigation. A 19mm pipe was used to make this line. Next, we connected a special drip pipe to it. It is made in the form of two closed loops. We connected the end of the drip pipe to the supply pipe.
To improve irrigation efficiency, we included a rain sensor in the system. It will not allow watering to turn on during rainfall. We connect the sensor to the controller according to the included instructions. In most cases, the controllers themselves are plugged into a regular outlet, which is very convenient.
Connecting and setting up irrigation
First step. We place irrigation elements on the site and connect them to each other using special connectors and splitters. We make sure that no earth gets into the pipes.
The design of the connectors is very simple - even a woman can easily handle the work Second step. We connect the assembled system to the water supply and do a test run. We position the sprinklers in the required directions. If everything is in order, we proceed to excavation work.
Third step. We dig a 200-250 mm ditch along the pipeline.
Fourth step. We fill the bottom of the trench with a layer of crushed stone. The backfill will take on the functions of a drainage cushion, ensuring the removal of residual water.
Fifth step.
Sixth step. We backfill the trench.
Seventh step. We turn on the system to check. We adjust sprinklers.
Eighth step. We program the controller to turn irrigation on and off at the required time. We remember: the lines must operate alternately; they can be turned on simultaneously only if there is sufficient water intake capacity.
Irrigation is connected and configured. We can accept it for permanent use. In the future, we regularly check the condition and correct operation of the elements of the irrigation system.
Budget watering option
There is no need to install large-scale automatic irrigation? Then use a simple budget option based on a barrel.
First step
We make a stand for the barrel. We use a profiled pipe or channel. The optimal height of the support is 1.5-2 m. The support posts should be inclined to each other at such an angle that the dimensions of the upper frame allow our barrel to be stably laid. We connect the supports with horizontal jumpers at the bottom, middle and top. We dig 70-80 cm holes for installing supports, set up the structure, fill 10-15 cm of the height of each hole with crushed stone and pour concrete. Important! While the concrete hardens, we fix the supports with spacers.
Drip irrigation - water tank Second step
Prepare a container for water. Any intact and not rusty barrel will do. At the top of the barrel we cut a pipe for connecting the hose. Through it the barrel will be filled with water. The second end of this hose will be connected to the water intake. We also install a pipe in the lower part. We connect a watering hose to it. Both hoses are equipped with taps for turning the water supply on and off. Place the barrel on the support. For greater reliability, we secure it with clamps, bolts and nuts.
Third step
On the site plan we indicate the places that need watering. We draw a diagram of the irrigation system indicating all the splitters, connectors, plugs, taps, pipes, hoses and other elements.
Fourth step
We assemble an irrigation system. The simplest and most convenient option is to buy a ready-made kit for arranging drip irrigation. You can also make such a system yourself. To do this, it is enough to prepare the required number of pipes or hoses, make holes along their length, connect the elements into a single system using connectors and splitters, and then connect to the hose coming out of the barrel.
Sprayer for wateringGood luck!
Video - DIY watering system
Today we will visit the amateur gardener Vladimir. On the garden plot, Vladimir organized drip irrigation with his own hands. We will try to find out about the complexities and secrets of this event.
Interview about do-it-yourself drip irrigation on your personal plot.
Tell Vladimir what prompted you to organize a drip glaze on your site?
Since our site is not small and my parents do most of the work on the site, I wanted to somehow help them and automate the work, at least in some part of it. By the way, in this You can read the article - what other methods I use to ensure that the garden is not a burden.
Vladimir, what are the main advantages of drip irrigation and, if any, disadvantages?
I organized drip irrigation on my site a year ago and I had time to appreciate this irrigation system. The downside is some costs for purchasing materials for organizing drip irrigation. That is, some financial and labor costs are required for the purchase and installation of a drip irrigation system. And of course there are advantages, which, in my opinion, are much greater:
- a significant reduction in the gardener’s labor costs and automatic watering at the time of day when it is beneficial for the plants, and not when the owner of the site has time;
- uniform watering of precisely planted plants, not weeds;
- saving water.
As for the advantages, they and the trinity make up for all the costs.
The first and, in my opinion, main advantage is the complete elimination of physical labor for watering the garden. I want to emphasize that it disappears in principle. Summer gardeners know from experience that during the hot summer period watering is necessary almost every day and on average it takes an hour to an hour and a half to complete this work, and sometimes longer. This is done in the evening, that is, after a hard day and, as they say, you cannot be lazy.
The second is uniform watering at the roots of the crops we planted. I measured it and it turned out that after 1.5-2 hours of watering, the radius of wetting of the drip point is 10-15 centimeters, and the soil is soaked to a depth of 10-15 centimeters in depth. For example, growing tomatoes requires watering at the root . And this is one of the important conditions for obtaining a good harvest.
Third is economical water consumption.
DIY drip irrigation.
I would like this article to help gardeners organize themselves - what is your opinion, where is the best place to start?
The first step I took was preparing a plan - a drip irrigation scheme for the garden plot. In order not to get confused, we will move in order. I also recommend planning the site for anyone who wants to organize drip irrigation on their site. With a ready-made diagram it will be easier to figure out what components you will need.
It is unconditional that it is necessary to purchase and install a barrel or other suitable container for water on the site. Moreover, it is installed at a height of 2-2.5 meters in order to ensure the necessary water pressure in the irrigation system. Also, an important condition is the presence of a water source on the site (pipeline or well).
If there is only a well, then an appropriate pump is also needed to pump water into the barrel. Water flows into the irrigation pipes from the barrel by gravity.
Finally, the system itself is assembled from a 3.2-inch (approximately 5 centimeters) plastic water pipe, filter, fittings, and drip tape. To prevent the drip irrigation system from clogging, you need a filter. The filter on one side is connected to a hose that leads from the barrel. On the other hand, it is attached to a water pipe, which will conduct water throughout the garden area.
Now about the pipe itself - here we need to go into more detail.
A plastic water pipe is laid throughout the area, at the edge of the beds, and holes are made in it for connecting the drip tape. The distance between future holes for the drip tape depends on the width of the beds and aisles. We transfer the distance between the beds onto a plastic pipe with a marker, while making sure that the marking of the holes is in the same plane (so that the holes do not end up looking in different directions). After marking the pipe, it is drilled with a thin drill, and then with a thick drill (feather).
But, in principle. You can drill right away with a feather. When drilling into a pipe, the main danger is not drilling through the bottom wall. A large drill (“feather”) must be smaller in diameter than the rubber seal - otherwise water will flow out of the pipe.
I recommend that after drilling the pipe, place it horizontally and shake it to remove plastic shavings from the pipe. The resulting hole must be cleaned with sandpaper and a rubber seal must be inserted into it. The rubber seal must fit tightly so that it can hold water.
Now the plastic pipe can be laid directly on our garden.
I divided my plot into three parts - a greenhouse and 2 garden plots. For this purpose, connecting couplings with taps are installed on the water pipes. And taps are needed to regulate the pressure - when watering a large area, it may not be enough.
We place plugs along the edges of the pipes. You can use the kind of plugs that are shown in the photo, but if you need to save money, then you can put a round block of wood into the edge of the pipe, adjusted to the inner diameter of the pipe.
Having laid the pipes around the garden, we connect the fittings. Fittings can be simple or with a tap to shut off the water.
I want to clarify the difference between a fitting with a tap and a coupling with a tap.A fitting with a tap shuts off the water supply to one bed. A coupling with a tap shuts off the flow of water to a certain part of the site. If the garden is large, you can divide the watering into three sections. For example, on my site you can turn off the tap of the adapter located in diagram No. 2 (I talked about it above) and water will not flow to the outermost part of the garden. I placed the fitting with the tap in the greenhouse.
Now all that remains is to connect the drip tape, through which our garden will be irrigated. Along the entire length of the drip tape there are holes at a distance of 10-15 cm (depending on the tape manufacturer).
We just need to spread the tape over the area and connect it to the fittings.
The opposite edge of the tape needs to be sealed so that water does not spill out - you can read more about how I do this.
And now the most important and pleasant moment - we let in some water and irrigate our plants. Of course, upon initial start-up, it is necessary to carefully inspect the entire irrigation system for leaks. If there is a large tear in the tape, it must be replaced. Read more about replacing drip tape.
We hope that this drip irrigation experience will help our readers organize effective plant care.
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Calculation of drip irrigation
The total area of the site that will be watered using drip irrigation. When growing different vegetables in the garden, different planting patterns are used. The most popular are planting in rows. The width is arbitrary from 20 to 100 cm, depending on crops and local conditions. Considering that the drip tape most productively provides moisture to the root system up to 25 cm wide from its central axis, the row spacing is made no more than 50 cm. 1 tape is enough for 2 rows. This means the distance between the tapes will be about 50 cm. With a plot width of 10 meters, 20 tapes will be needed. For a plot of 1 acre (10m*10m) you will need 200 m of drip tape. At cost of drip tape about 10 cents per 1 meter is about 20 dollars. (Prices are approximate and may vary in different regions).
To connect 20 drip tapes you need 20 fittings. Fittings can be simple or with taps. Fittings with taps allow you to turn off irrigation on each drip tape individually. When using simple fittings, watering and shutting off is done on main pipelines. The cost of a simple fitting is about 40 cents, a fitting with a faucet is 1-1.5 dollars, depending on the manufacturer.
Distribution pipeline - this is a pipe into which drip tapes are connected using fittings. For a plot of 10 m wide you need the same amount of pipe. It is cheapest to use plastic pipes. For a small garden they are suitable with a cross section of 25 mm. Recycled pipe for low pressure costs approximately 80 cents per meter.
The container with irrigation water is usually located at some distance from the beds. Connects the distribution pipeline with a water tank - the main pipeline. You can use the same pipe. Easier to purchase and easier to make installation of a drip irrigation system when many components fit together. Let it be another 10 m of plastic pipe with a diameter of 25 mm.
When using water for drip irrigation from an open source, you will need fine filter . Reduces the likelihood of clogging the holes on the drip tape with mechanical impurities (small particles of sand, rust, algae). Cost from 10 dollars.
Container for irrigation water. Desirable capacity from 200 l. You can use both metal and plastic. It should be taken into account that in transparent plastic containers, green algae quickly multiply in the sun in the summer. Which clog the droppers on the tape. Such containers must be protected from direct sunlight. The price of 200 liters of plastic barrel is from 17 dollars.
Another $10 for the shut-off valve and pipe connectors.
200 m of drip tape - $20.
20 fittings*0.4 dollars - 8 dollars.
20 m of plastic pipe d 25 mm - $16.
Fine filter - $10.
200 liter barrel - $17.
Faucet and connector - $10.
Conclusion: together 81 dollars per 1 hundred square meters. Approximate prices are indicated in dollars so that those wishing to install from different regions can navigate regardless of the national currency. The cost of materials was chosen on average, closer to the budget option. When installing a drip irrigation system over a large area, the average price per 1 sq.m. will decrease (the same barrel and filter are used).
Drip irrigation problems and tips for eliminating them
What to do if the integrity of the drip tape is damaged? In this case, you can replace the entire tape, which is not entirely rational, or use a special connecting fitting by cutting off a previously torn piece of tape. If there is a small tear, you can fix the leak by inserting a piece of the same drip tape about 5 cm long into the place of the tear. Based on my experience, I plan to patch the drip tape this season, and already in the next (fourth) season I will replace part of the drip tape with a new one.
The end of the drip tape must be sealed to prevent water from spilling out. For this Place the folded end of the drip tape into a small piece of tape (about 5-7 cm). I only use this method, and it hasn’t failed me yet.
To ensure that the water supply pipes do not move, and that the drip tape is taut and not blown to the side by gusts of wind, we recommend securing them with arched wire staples. Unfortunately, this idea came to me only this year, i.e. by the third season of using drip irrigation. Previously I attached it with other means at hand, but this one turned out to be the most convenient.
After the passage of time, I can say for sure, having incurred some material and labor costs, I was very pleased with the result. And some more small recommendations:
1. Fill the barrel with water in a timely manner to warm it up.
2. A carefully fold the tapes and fittings at the end of the season with notes on where and what was located, hto make it easier to restore watering at the beginning of the season.
3. Check all components of drip irrigation in advance in order to purchase and replace failed damaged components in a timely manner.
The simplest installation of drip irrigation
The peculiarity of the drip irrigation system is that moisture supplied through a special polymer tape or droppers is delivered directly to the root system of plants. Thanks to this, the overall water consumption is reduced and at the same time the crop yield increases. In addition, drip irrigation does not lead to waterlogging of the soil and reduces the likelihood of weeds appearing - they do not receive enough moisture.
It’s not difficult to create a similar system in your own garden. This article will provide you with detailed step-by-step instructions for designing and installing drip irrigation using polypropylene pipes.
Compared to conventional metal pipes, polypropylene products have a set of advantages that make them a good choice for installing a drip irrigation system on a personal plot.
It is worth highlighting the following advantages of PP pipes:
- light weight;
- cheapness;
- ease of installation;
- no condensation;
- almost complete absence of deposits on the internal walls;
- service life is about 50 years.
In order to standardize characteristics, all polypropylene pipes are marked, dividing them into four groups.
- PN10 - pipes designed only for cold water (up to +45 degrees) and exclusively at pressures up to 10 atmospheres. Due to relatively weak characteristics they are rare.
- PN16 - pipes designed to operate at pressures up to 16 atmospheres and temperatures up to +60 degrees. Suitable for drip irrigation system.
- PN20 – maximum operating pressure is 20 atmospheres, can withstand temperatures up to +95 degrees.
- PN25 - the permissible temperature is similar to the previous type; the pressure in them can reach up to 25 atmospheres. They are equipped with reinforced layers that increase the strength of the pipe.
In drip irrigation lines, the operating pressure does not exceed 2-3 atmospheres, and the water temperature is equal to or lower than the ambient air temperature. Therefore, polypropylene pipes PN10 and PN16 can be used here. The use of PN20 and PN25 is acceptable, but their characteristics are redundant for such a system.
Prices for polypropylene pipes
polypropylene pipes
Do-it-yourself drip irrigation - making a plan
This system consists of several elements; let’s get acquainted with the features of each of them.
- Water container. On one side it is connected to the drip irrigation pipes, on the other – to the water supply from which it is replenished. Necessary for storing water and heating it under sunlight to a temperature close to that of air. The presence of a container is mandatory, since when connecting drip irrigation lines directly to the water supply, the moisture reaching the plants will not have time to warm up and will be too cold. As a result, crops will experience “stress”, which will affect their condition and productivity.
Designing drip irrigation for a greenhouse or garden plot is divided into several steps, performed sequentially.
Step 1. Determine the area of the site for which you need to install drip irrigation. Take measurements, calculate the number and length of the beds, the distance between them, as well as the number of plants on each of them.
Step 2. Calculate the amount of water required to water all crops on the site. On average, one square meter requires from 15 to 30 liters of water per day. Calculate more accurate values using the table below.
Table No. 1. Daily water requirements of some crops.
Please note that water consumption for each individual plant is not constant. The value varies depending on average temperature, precipitation levels and the characteristics of the soil in which the crops grow. Excessive watering is just as harmful as insufficient watering, since it leads to rotting of the plant roots.
Step 3. Based on the figure obtained at the previous stage, determine the volume of the water tank and the cross-section of the main pipeline. The table below shows the maximum possible liquid flow rate depending on the pipe diameter. Select the volume of the tank and the cross-section of the main line with a small margin according to the characteristics. This small reserve may be needed if water consumption for irrigation increases.
Table. Dependence of the maximum water flow on the diameter of the pipeline.
| Pipe diameter, mm | Water consumption, l/hour |
|---|---|
| 16 | 600 |
| 20 | 900 |
| 25 | 1800 |
| 32 | 3000 |
| 40 | 4800 |
| 50 | 7200 |
Step 4. Determine the number and length of branches connected to the common main line. If drip irrigation tape is used as a direct means of delivering moisture to plants, then proceed from the rule: one bed - one outlet with tape. And when using polypropylene pipes and drippers from one outlet, you can provide watering to two beds at once.
If there are long lines and branches, a pump must be used to maintain pressure in the system.
Step 5. Determine the distance between the droppers connected to the bends of polypropylene pipes. One dripper can “feed” two plants in one bed (or four when the outlet is located between adjacent beds) if there is an appropriate adapter.
Step 6. Take a double squared notebook sheet or graph paper and draw a sketch of the future drip irrigation system. Transfer to it the location of the water tank, fertilizer container, tap, filter, main pipe, tee fittings and bends.
Step 7 Calculate the amount of materials needed to install the irrigation system. The layouts and sketches created at the previous design stages will help you with this.
Installing the container
The water tank must be located at a certain height so that the force of gravity acting on the liquid creates pressure in the pipes of the drip irrigation system. On average, the container is raised to a height of 2 meters - thus, the pressure in the line is sufficient for effective watering of 40-50 square meters. If the plot with beds has b O larger area, then either the tank is raised higher, or a pump is installed in the main line.
Step 1. Build a support for the container. The easiest way to make it is from timber with a large cross-section and thick wide boards. Drive the beam to a certain depth into the ground, lay the boardwalk on top. For greater strength, install crossbars between the supports. Instead of timber and boards, you can use bricks or steel pipes.
Step 2. Mount the connection to the drip irrigation line on the container. Install the fitting and tap at a height of 5-10 centimeters from the bottom of the container - this will prevent large particles of dust and dirt from getting into the pipeline.
Step 3. On the opposite side of the container, install a connection to the water supply. Use a shut-off valve with a float mechanism - the device will automatically open to refill the tank and close when the water level reaches its maximum.
Step 4. Lift and place the container on the support. Postpone the direct connection of the tank to the water supply until the last stage of arranging the drip irrigation system.
An open tank can be used as a container - in this case it will be partially replenished by rain. But at the same time, take care to install a good filter - along with precipitation, a lot of dust, debris and leaves will get into the container, which can cause the pipes to become clogged.
Laying the main line and branches
Since polypropylene pipes are used as the material for the main line and branches, you need to become familiar with how to properly cut and connect them to each other.
You can get a clean cut without burrs or deformations using special pipe cutters designed to work with plastic products. If for some reason it is impossible to purchase such a tool, then as an alternative, use a hacksaw or, when working with small-section pipes, a sharp stationery knife. But at the same time, the quality of the cut will decrease, and this will not affect the durability of the pipe and the quality of the connection with other elements of the system.
Things are more complicated with the connection of polypropylene pipes with fittings and other elements.
There are three ways in total:
- using soldering;
- using crimping;
- using cold welding.
The first method provides a strong and durable connection that can withstand high pressure in the system. But for it you will need a special soldering machine with a set of attachments and some skills in working with such a tool.
Tool for soldering polypropylene pipes
Step 1. Inspect the fitting and pipe section for defects or defects.
Step 2. Degrease the outer surface of the pipe at the intended joint and the inner surface of the fitting.
Step 3. Install the appropriate nozzle on the soldering tool - the hole in the part for the pipe should correspond to the outer diameter, and in the part for the fitting - to the internal section.
Step 4. Warm up the soldering tool and nozzle.
Step 5. At the same time, insert the pipe and push the fitting into the corresponding parts of the nozzle. Wait for the time specified in the instructions for the tool. The soldering iron will heat the outside of the pipe and the inside of the fitting.
Step 6. At the same time, remove the fitting and pull the pipe out of the nozzle and connect them to each other to the heating depth. Hold for five seconds, then allow the connection to cool for some time.
The main disadvantage of using a soldering machine is the need for a soldering tool. It is quite expensive, and using it only once is impractical.
In addition, such a connection is non-separable. An alternative is to use compression fittings and a crimp wrench. However, in the case of polypropylene pipes, the quality and tightness of such a connection leave much to be desired. A simpler and cheaper connection method is “cold welding” using special glue.
Cold welding prices
cold welding
Step 1. Examine the fitting and pipe for defects. If there are no defects, join without glue and mark the depth of the joint using a marker.
Step 2. Degrease and clean the bonded surfaces of the pipe and fitting.
Step 3. Apply glue to the outside of the pipe and the inside of the fitting.
Step 4. Connect the elements together. Make sure that they connect smoothly, without skewing to one side. They should be held in this position for 15 to 30 seconds. Water supply in such a connection is permissible only after 24 hours.
Connecting PP pipes using the cold welding method
The pipelines of a drip irrigation system can be made detachable and easily dismantled using American type fittings.
Before starting the installation of the main line and branches, it is necessary to decide which method of pipe arrangement is preferable - surface or deep. In the first case, all elements of the system are simply laid on the ground (or above it using bracket holders). Pipes lying on the surface are easy to repair and replace, but they can also easily be damaged due to carelessness.
When buried deep, the main and auxiliary communications are laid in a narrow trench with a depth of 0.3 to 0.75 meters. In this case, inspection and maintenance of pipes becomes more difficult, but at the same time they do not interfere with walking around the site and harvesting crops from plants. Having decided on the location of the highways, you can begin to install them.
Step 1. Attach a fine filter to the water tank and ball valve. If you intend to install a container with fertilizers, a pump and a controller for automatic drip irrigation, install them.
Step 2. Using an elbow fitting and a piece of pipe of the appropriate size, bring the line to a height of approximately 5-10 centimeters above the ground. Install the holder bracket as a support.
Step 3. Cut pieces of polypropylene pipes according to the distance between the bends. Also take into account the “seams” between the parts of the line and the fittings.
Step 4. Sequentially install and connect the sections to the tee fittings. At the same time, maintain the slope - the end of the highway should be closer to the ground than the beginning. This is necessary for effective drainage of water before the onset of cold weather.
Step 5. At the end of the main pipe, install either a plug or a ball valve. The latter is preferable because by opening it, you will be able to quickly drain water or clear the pipes of blockages that have accumulated in them.
Option #1. Drip tape
First, let's look at the option with tape. The thickness of its walls and the spacing of the holes are selected depending on what crop is planned to be supplied with moisture.
Table No. 3. The spacing of holes on the drip tape depends on the crops being grown.
The sequence of actions is as follows.
Step 1. Install start connectors with taps to the tees perpendicular to the main line.
Step 2. Divide the drip tape into parts equal in length to the length of the beds (with a small margin).
Step 3. Fix one end of the drip tape in the start connector.
Step 4. Cover the other end of the drip tape with a cap or roll it up and tie it with insulating tape.
Drip tape is not best suited for areas where birds and rodents are found in large numbers, which can easily damage its thin walls.
Option #2. Tube with droppers
In the second case, you will need small-diameter polypropylene pipes (for example, 16 cm for small beds), an adjustable dripper with bends, flexible tubes with a cross-section of 3-5 mm and turbulent stands. One outlet can have 1, 2 or 4 outlets, respectively, one dropper can supply 1, 2 or 4 bushes with moisture.
Step 1. Using soldering or cold welding, attach branch pipes to the tees perpendicular to the main.
Step 2. Drill holes in the outlet pipe at a certain pitch. The diameter of the holes must correspond to the diameter of the dropper seal.
Step 3. Insert the dropper seal into the hole, then the dropper itself. Next, mount the branch and connect to it the appropriate number of flexible tubes with turbulent struts at the end. Then insert them into the ground next to the plants.
Step 4. Install a plug at the end of the outlet pipe.
Step 5. Repeat the previous two steps with all the holes on the outlet pipes.
The final stages of installing a drip irrigation system are connecting the tank to the water supply, filling it with liquid and a kind of stress test, during which you need to make sure that all elements of the system are working properly.
For a better understanding of the drip irrigation system, we recommend that you watch the following video.
Video - How to make drip irrigation with your own hands
Automation of a drip irrigation system
Today, manual control for a drip irrigation system is impractical - it requires daily presence on a personal plot, which can only be ensured in cases where you either live there or have enough free time to come there every other day.
The simplest option for automating the system is to install a specialized microcomputer. It consists of a programmable controller, a set of chips with memory, an LCD display, control buttons and a housing that is resistant to moisture and temperature changes. A microcomputer is installed on the central line and a regular watering program is set in it. Switching on and off is carried out using solenoid valves, replacing conventional ball valves.
Prices for controllers for automatic watering
controllers for automatic watering
But such a system does not take into account the state of the environment, so there is always a risk that the plants either do not receive the required amount of moisture or receive it in excess. The solution to this problem is to install a set of weather and humidity sensors. Depending on the weather and soil moisture, the watering program will be adjusted to increase or decrease the volume of water directed to each plant.
The structure of such a system is as follows: a plastic bottle with small diameter holes is dug in near each individual plant in the greenhouse. Read more in .
A drip irrigation system based on polypropylene pipes and droppers will not only free you from work related to supplying plants with water, but will also help to significantly increase their growth rate and productivity.
Video - Automatic drip irrigation “Rosinka” in a greenhouse
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Summer residents, who have the opportunity to come to their plot only on weekends, are well acquainted with the situation when, after a working week, plants have to be literally “soldered off” in order to bring them to normal condition. For such cases, experts recommend using drip irrigation systems. This can be purchased as a kit, or you can make it yourself. But in any case, you will need to install drip irrigation, the correct implementation of which determines the volume of the future harvest.
Briefly about the composition and operation of the system
Drip irrigation is a set of pipelines stretched across the site. Through them, water is supplied to the irrigation zone. However, it is not poured in large quantities onto the beds, but comes in drops at a flow rate of 1–2 liters per hour. This is achieved due to low pressure and small diameters of the outlet openings.
Such a system must include:
- water source;
- main pipeline;
- drip lines;
- optional equipment.
General view of the drip irrigation system
The functions of a water feeder are usually performed by a storage tank. The water supply can also be used as a source. But most often for irrigation you need water at a temperature higher than that in the central network. For this reason, a storage tank is a more common option.
How to do the installation yourself
Having chosen drip irrigation as an option for providing plants in a summer cottage with a sufficient amount of moisture, it is necessary not only to carry out the installation procedure of the drip irrigation system efficiently, but also to take a responsible approach to the design and planning of the purchase of necessary materials.
Automatic system assembly diagram
Planning a drip irrigation system
It is advisable to plan the system before the plants are planted. In such a situation, it is easier to lay communications.
First you need to decide on the water source. If a storage tank is used as such, its volume is calculated based on the number of consumption points and the intensity of use of the system. Water consumption depends on what plants are planned to be watered and what climate is typical for the region. Usually, as already mentioned, a flow rate of 1–2 liters per hour is sufficient. Moreover, the water supply is not carried out constantly, but as the soil dries out.
When planning the installation of a storage tank, it is better to choose its location based on the distance to the irrigation areas. It is advisable to make these distances as close in size as possible. In this case, the container is installed at a height of at least 1 meter above the ground.
Plastic pipes are used for the main pipeline. The diameter is better to take 50 mm. This size will make it possible to install fittings for side branches (drip lines) without problems. Although it is permissible to use smaller diameters.
Option for storage tank location
For drip lines, you can use ½- or ¾-inch plastic pipes or use drip tape. Water can be supplied to the outside through small-diameter holes in pipes or tape, or using special droppers. This option makes it possible to supply water directly to the roots of the plant.
The use of droppers is also preferable because they are all guaranteed to have the same diameter. Accordingly, the flow through them will depend only on the pressure, and since the pressures in such networks are small, the costs will be comparable.
In order to install drip irrigation with your own hands you will need:
- storage tank (pumping station);
- main pipeline;
- drip lines or tapes;
- droppers;
- fittings (start connectors, tees, plugs);
- taps.
Installation diagram with storage tank
Drip irrigation installation technology
You need to start by installing the water feeder. Then the main pipeline is connected to it. It is better to install a shut-off valve at the entrance to it. If necessary, you can turn it off and stop watering. It would also be useful to install a filter at the inlet of the pipeline. It will reduce the likelihood of clogging of droppers or water outlet holes.
Next, the main pipeline is assembled. They usually lay it along paths and the edges of beds. At the points where the drip branches are connected, holes for connectors are drilled in the main line (diameter 14 mm). To seal the connection, you can additionally use a union nut. Drip pipelines or tapes are connected through connectors. It is advisable to install a tap at the entrance to each branch so that a specific direction can be shut off if necessary.
After the drip pipelines are laid, holes for irrigation are drilled or droppers are installed, their far end is blocked with a plug.
After completing the assembly of the system, it is necessary to carry out hydraulic tests, check it for unauthorized leaks, and adjust the amount of water flowing through the sections using shut-off valves.
Connecting drip pipelines
Some installation nuances
At the installation stage, it is advisable to pay attention to the presence of a slope towards the farthest droppers. Otherwise, in a system operating due to the forces of gravity, there will be no movement of water.
When connecting the main pipeline to a water source, it is better to install an additional tee in case it becomes necessary to add new irrigation directions. And if the functions of a water source are performed by a well and a pumping station, then this tee will allow the water to be used for other purposes.
It is advisable to make all connections in the network detachable. This will allow you to dismantle the system at the end of the gardening season and remove the equipment indoors. This will also make it possible, if necessary, to change the configuration of the irrigation network when the layout of the planted beds changes.
Water consumption in individual sections can be controlled using water meters. Their readings will help you set up the system with the required accuracy - after all, different plants require different intensity of watering.
To automate the entire system, a timer can be installed at the outlet of the water source, which will organize the supply of water according to the desired schedule during the absence of the owners.
This is how you can install drip irrigation from a pumping station or storage tank, making life easier for yourself at the dacha during the gardening season. It is recommended to get more detailed information from the video:
For avid gardeners, the onset of spring is like the beginning of a new life, because soon they will again be able to get to their garden or summer cottage to plant it with a variety of ornamental and fruit plants. None of these passionate people are afraid of hard work, however, some of its nuances would like to be made easier. For example, those that are associated with the endless watering of lands planted with useful properties. It’s good when you can buy special devices for watering, rather than carrying heavy watering cans from barrel to garden bed. However, you can solve this issue in another way, by doing, for example, drip irrigation in your garden with your own hands. The diagram of this irrigation system is presented in our material.
If you decided that drip equipment can be exclusively homemade and at the same time “clumsy”, then you are mistaken. In fact, this irrigation system has long been successfully implemented in the manufacture of industrial equipment for its installation, however, it is still much cheaper to independently equip it on the site, using the most traditional available materials.
The complexity of installing this irrigation system is minimal, however, it will be better if the person doing the installation knows at least the basic nuances of this procedure.
The drip irrigation system consists of several segments:
- large container for clear liquid;
- special hoses with built-in droppers or holes for them;
- a rubber or plastic pipe cutting into the tank;
- connecting materials;
- filter pads.
However, if you have a water supply system at your summer cottage or in a private house that can be connected to an irrigation system, then you do not need to install a tank.
An ordinary garden barrel installed not on the ground, but on some structure, for example, on the roof, can act as a tank. It must be located at a distance from the ground of at least 2 meters. In this case, the barrel must be closed from sunlight. All other parts will need to be purchased at a hardware store, or you can use materials left over from any construction project you are carrying out.
Implemented drip irrigation will work as follows.
- Water from the tank, passing through the filter, will flow through the main pipe and fall into tapes distributed over the beds with droppers built into them.
- The water passing through the tapes, flowing into the droppers, will irrigate the ground in small portions, thus immediately reaching the root part of the plant.
Let's look at the pros and cons of the irrigation system we organize.
Table 1. Advantages and disadvantages of a drip irrigation system
| pros | Minuses |
|---|---|
As you can see, the disadvantages of this irrigation system are few, although they should be taken into account in any case. Indeed, you will assemble the drip irrigation yourself, or a specialist you have hired for this. In any case, you will have to spend:
- money, for parts or also for the work of a specialist;
- time to collect materials and install the system;
- the forces that will go into installing the equipment.
If you are ready to part with the resources mentioned above, let's proceed to consider the instructions for installing the homemade system that interests us.
How to install a homemade drip system for watering your garden
Step 1 - planning
First, we need to plan all the nuances regarding the placement of the assembled drip irrigation system. To do this, it is best to make a drawing on which the following nuances will be indicated.
- First of all, you need to indicate the place where the water container will be installed, that is, a barrel or some other metal tank.
- Then you need to determine how and in what direction the pipe supplying water to the drip tapes will go from the desired water container.
- Next, measure the beds and the distances between the plants planted on them. We need the required data in order to determine what it will be:
- length of tapes;
- distance between droppers.
In other words, with the help of these measurements we will accurately know the parameters of the future irrigation system.
So, having determined all the nuances that interest us, let’s proceed to further actions.
Step 2 - install the water tank
So, first, let's install the water barrel to the height we need. In this case, it is optimal to choose a height of about 2 meters or 50 centimeters more. How exactly you install the barrel does not matter.
It can even be installed at the following points:
- the roof of any building;
- attic of the house, etc.
Having installed the barrel, let's move on to the next step.
Step 3 – lay the pipe and attach drip tapes
Now we need to bring a pipe to the tank, which we prepared in advance, cutting it into the lower part of the container. By the way, this device can be replaced with a simple rubber hose.
So, the connecting element between the drip tapes and the tank is laid clearly perpendicular to the beds. Then we make holes in it at equal distances, corresponding to the future direction of laying out the drip tapes.
Note: the number of drip tapes is determined by the number of beds to which you want to provide the desired irrigation.
We take drip tapes, and using fastening equipment, for example, starting fittings made specifically for these devices, we connect them to a pipe or hose at the level of the required holes.
Step 4 – lay the tapes and install the droppers
Now we need to lay the tapes connected to the pipe along the beds along the beds, so that the droppers are closer to the plant. Having stretched the tapes, it is necessary to put plugs on each of their ends, opposite the point of connection to the pipe.
Afterwards you can fill the tank with water and start using the system.
Operating rules for drip irrigation
So, after you assemble the drip irrigation, you will need to run it for the first time just to rinse it. To do this, you need to remove the plugs from the drip tapes and run water over them so that all the chemical residues inside the device are washed out.
Unfortunately, a self-assembled watering device requires constant monitoring of its integrity and safety. In addition, you also need to assemble the system strictly according to the instructions in order to avoid excessive watering, which will certainly lead to rotting of the root system.
If you do not replenish the tank on time, then sooner or later the water inside it, which gives life to plants, will run out, and they will quite naturally dry out.
Moreover, the droppers through which water passes often become clogged and overgrown with sediment, which summer residents usually take from a well. So that this does not prevent you from constantly supplying your green charges with water, you need to periodically:
- clean out;
- launder;
- treat with various chemicals.
It is best to immediately close the tank with a lid so that insects, birds and other living creatures do not get into it, the remains of whose vital activity and bodies can also clog the irrigation system we assembled manually.
You should not enlarge the holes of the drippers too much, as this will lower the overall pressure level inside the irrigation system, causing the water to be distributed unevenly there.
How to make a drip irrigation system from a plastic bottle: instructions
Summer residents are able to use even the trash left after a meal for useful purposes. In particular, they learned how to make drip irrigation from such an unnecessary thing as a plastic bottle. This bottle will need to be prepared and dug into the ground.
The advantages of drip irrigation using bottles are as follows:
- the poured dose of water is enough to water the plants for 2-4 days;
- the system for its implementation is made very simply;
- watering is carried out exclusively evenly;
- water goes directly to the roots, eliminating the danger of refraction of sunlight on the leaves of greenery.
Of course, such a system is suitable for watering mainly small areas, since its use on hectares of land is already becoming irrational and labor-intensive.
Let's get started with the steps of our instructions.
Step 1 - prepare the bottle
So, we take a plastic bottle, preferably one and a half or two liters. We wrap the neck with a lid, and several holes need to be made on the sides. The number of holes you are looking for will vary depending on the structure and composition of the soil into which you will dig the plastic. For example:
- for sandy soil, two holes are enough;
- for clay four.
Having prepared the container, we begin digging.
Step 2 - dig in the bottle
We dig a bottle between the bushes of plants. So, for example, if we are talking about tomatoes or cucumbers, you need to move their green part apart and find the free distance between plantings. Then dig in the bottle to a depth of about 15 centimeters.
The bottle should be sealed on several sides.
Step 3 - add water
So, all we have to do is pour settled, non-icy water into the bottle and let it saturate the roots with moisture. In general, this is where the entire installation procedure ends and the real operation begins. In the same way, you can give liquid fertilizers to plants, which will immediately reach the end point.
Let's sum it up
A drip irrigation system is very convenient and can greatly make a gardener’s life easier. At the same time, it can be implemented by completely different devices. For example, the classic version with drip tapes can easily be replaced by digging a bottle with holes into the ground. At the same time, the desired bottle can not only be dug in, but also hung, and the bushes of plants can be irrigated from above. There are a lot of options, and you can not only use existing ones, but also successfully come up with your own.
Video - Drip irrigation with bottles
Video - Drip irrigation installation